Clothing and Attire Regulations

Transcription

1 Historia Normannis Clothing and Attire Regulations Version 1.2a

2 Table of Contents - Introduction and Legal Information - Contact Details - The Three Estates (Society Structure) - The Tier System o Secular Clothing Bellatores Laboratores Upper Nobility o Clothing Definitions Colours Colour Chart Embroidery Battlefield Attire Male Clothing Female Clothing Unisex Clothing Leather Jewellery and Accoutrements - o Monastic and Clerical Clothing Clothing Definitions 2

3 Introduction Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The whole document has received a face-lift and overhaul; the images have been trimmed and their backgrounds removed, and a whole new section on necklines has been written to explain the different designs and their relative frequency. Additionally, the envelope pouch has been removed from the regulations- any currently in existence in the society can remain, but as of the 2017 season we are moving towards very similarly constructed small, shoulder-slung satchels (which the evidence shows far more reliably). In turn a new design of draw-string pouch/purse has been introduced based on images from the Hortus Deliciarum. Embroidered silk alms purses have also been added to the jewellery and accoutrement section, in reflection of primary evidence of these pouches. To reflect small changes in Oratores rank names, that section has been reorganised, introducing Monastic Priests and moving the rank of Magistra to its new position in T5. More information will be available from the Oratores regulations due out in line with these updates. -Daniel FitzEdward Justiciar 2017 Legal Information All information and graphics contained within is the original work of Daniel FitzEdward, or other members of the media team, unless specifically stated otherwise. All information is thereby property of Historia Normannis, and may be reproduced in part or in entirety by its members for the purposes of informing, educating or referencing within the society or liaising with event organisers. The information within is not to be reproduced in part or in entirety for the benefit of those outside the organisation without the express permission of Historia Normannis. 3

4 Contact Details Justiciar/High Constable Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Daniel FitzEdward - (Justiciar@normannis.co.uk) Lord Chancellor Philip Turnham - (LordChancellor@normannis.co.uk) High Steward Laura FitzEdward - (HighSteward@normannis.co.uk) Head of England Tash Scullion (n.z.scullion@hotmail.co.uk ) Head of Wales Jim Fanning (Sevensons@hotmail.co.uk) Head of Scotland Daniel FitzEdward (acting) - (Blackthorn9@hotmail.com) Master of Guild of Drapers Laura FitzEdward- (highsteward@normannis.co.uk) Master of Guild of Leatherworkers and Cordwainers Daniel FitzEdward (acting) - (Blackthorn9@hotmail.com) Master of Guild of Jewellers Chris Parr- (chris_parr@outlook.com) 4

5 The Three Estates Laboratores (Those who work) - Non-combative members who are not part of the Ecclesiastic structure fall into this section, as well as combat members when not participating in military displays/activities. See the Laboratores & Encampment Regulations for more information about this estate. Oratores (Those who pray) - Members who are part of the Ecclesiastical and Monastic displays within the society. See the Ecclesiastical & Holy Orders regulations for further details on this estate. Bellatores (Those who fight) - Members who are part of the military displays and combat within the society. This is what this document covers specifically. 5

6 Tiers Rather than list each equivalent rank exhaustively, the below table assigns them a Tier - each estate has its constituent tiers relisted at the beginning of the relevant section- but this table outlines the equivalency across the Estates for reference and understanding. Please note this only lists the standard Normannis ranks- deviations for ethno-specific ranks are given in those documents with their relevant tier for reference. Tier Laboratores Bellatores Oratores 1 Tenant Farmer (M/F) Levy Levy Archer Lay Tenant (M/F) Lay Brother (M) 2 Cottar (M/F) Militia Garrison Archer Novice (M/F) Acolyte (M) 3 Tradesman (M/F) Servien Mercenary Archer Parochial Vicar (M) Monk (M) Nun (F) 4 Merchant (M/F) Serjeant Deacon (M) Brother Dean (M) Sister (F) 5 Burgess (M/F) Squire Captain of Archers Priest (M) Magistra (F) Monastic Priest (M) 6 Steward (M) Majordomo (F) Scutage Knight (M) Dame (F) Knight Dean (M) Prior (M) Prioress (F) 7 Lord (M) Lady (F) Lord Archdeacon (M) Abbot (M) Abbess (F) 8 Baron (M) Noblewoman (F) Baron Bishop (M) Senior Abbess (F) Patron Noblewoman (F) 9 Earl (M) Countess (F) Earl Archbishop/Senior Bishop (M) Patron Countess (F) 6

7 Secular Clothing (Bellatores and Laboratores) 7

8 Secular Clothing By Rank 8

9 Bellatores Military Clothing in General All military members are expected to wear an undertunic, a pair of braies and hose, and a pair of shoes. Members not wearing a gambeson wear their overtunic as well, members with a gambeson wear it in lieu of their overtunic. Tier Melee Archer 1 Levy Bowman/Levy Archer 2 Militia Garrison Archer 3 Servien Mercenary Archer 4 Serjeant Crossbow Serjeant 5 Squire Captain of Archers 6 Knight 7 Lord 8 Baron Tier 1-2 -Levy -Militia/Bowman-Garrison Archer Levy and Militia members are expected to wear a civilian (Laboratores) kit impressions when on the encampment- and so should refer to the Laboratores table below. Tier 3-4 Servien-Serjeant/Mercenary Archer-Crossbow Serjeant On the field Servien and Serjeants wear their proscribed equipment over the standard attire (undertunic, braies, hose and shoes). On the Encampment, however, if they do not possess an equal or higher Laboratores or Oratores rank, these members may portray the rank of Soldier. Soldier Body Legs Head Accoutrements Gambeson, Undertunic Cloak (optional) Braies, Hose, Shoes/ankleboots Linen coif and/or Hood Belted weapon (axe/sword/knife) Cross 9

10 Tier 5 Squire/Captain of Archers Squires and captains mark the first point where social and military rank begin to merge. Squires and captains were also primarily military, and therefore they are offered a quasi-military impression to mark their status as a knight-in-training and military leaders. Squire Court undertunic with gambeson/ Tunic with undertunic Cloak (optional) Body Legs Head Accoutrements Braies and hose Shoes/Ankle boots Linen coif and/or Hood Phrygian Cap Sword belted at waist, belt. Hunting gloves (optional), Cross Tier 6 -Knight Knights were equally a part of the social and the military establishment- and as such their wealth and status was reflected in their dress. Even relatively poor knights took great pains to try and keep up with court fashions as a matter of dignity. Knight Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic with undertunic Cloak (preferable) Braies and hose Ankle boots Linen coif / Phrygian Cap Sword/dagger belted at waist, belt, Hunting gloves (optional), Cross Tier 7 -Lord Lords in Normannis reflect the richest members of the knightly class- those with power and authority that approached that of Barons. As such their clothing and attire reflected their wealth- and was a mark of status as prominent as their wargear or horse. Lord Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic with undertunic Bliaut with court undertunic Cloak (preferable) Braies and hose Ankle boots Linen coif / Phrygian Cap Sword/dagger belted at waist, belt, Hunting gloves (optional), Cross 10

11 Tier 8 -Baron Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Barons were the wealthiest men of the realm save the Earls and Royals themselves. These men were authorities within their own lands and their every item of clothing was a reflection of their rank and status. Baron Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic with undertunic, Bliaut with court undertunic Mantled Cloak (preferable) Braies and hose Ankle boots/calf boots Linen coif / Phrygian Cap Sword belted at waist Belt Hunting gloves Cross 11

12 Laboratores Clothing in General All members of the Laboratores are, under normal circumstances, expected to wear an underlayer (undertunic, under-dress), overlayer (tunic, dress) girded with a belt or cinch and a pair of suitable shoes. Men are additionally expected to wear braies and hose and women wimples. This was considered politely dressed by 12 th century standards. Cloaks and hoods are optional but encouraged, and hats and linen coifs greatly encouraged. Tier Male Female 1 Tenant Farmer Tenant Farmer 2 Cottar Cottar 3 Tradesman Tradeswoman 4 Merchant Merchant 5 Burgesse Burgesse 6 Steward / Scutage Knight* Majordomo/ Dame 7 Lord Lady 8 Baron Noblewoman *- See Knight in the Bellatores Regulations Working Craftsmen When engaged in a craft there is scope for members to wear irregular clothing- that is, adjusted for their trade. Women, due to social stigma, would not have discarded their dress, but would roll their sleeves back where they would interfere with their craft. Men would be permitted to discard their tunics when engaging in manual labour (both to keep cool and as a measure to prevent damage to their clothing)- and in cases where working with stains, heat or volatile materials, wear a leather apron (see Laboratores Regulations for more information). 12

13 Tier 1-5 Male -Tenant Farmer to Burgesse Most secular male clothing varied only in detail below the level of nobility- and the true marks of wealth were in details such as the cut of the clothing, the colours chosen, and the additional decoration. TF- Burgesse Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic and Cloak (optional) Braies and hose (Winningas T1-2) Garters (optional) Shoes/Ankle Boots Acorn/Phrygian cap Hood and/or Linen Coif Belt Eating knife Cross Pouch Tier 1-5 Female -Tenant Farmer to Burgesse Most secular female clothing varied only in detail below the level of nobility- and the true marks of wealth were in details such as the cut of the clothing, the colours chosen, and the additional decoration. TF- Burgesse Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress and underdress Cloak (optional) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple, Pins (Fillet and Veil- T5) Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch Tier 6 Male Steward Stewards did not hold great office by their birth, but had risen to positions of trust serving the landed gentry, managing their households and estates. As such these men would be better dressed than their peers, but not able to adopt the elaborate garments of their social betters. Steward Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic Cloak (optional) Braies and Hose Garters Ankle Boots Phrygian cap Linen Coif Belt, Eating knife Sword/dagger (optional), Hunting gloves (optional Keys, Cross 13

14 Tier 6 Female Majordomo/Dame A Majordomo would manage the household of a great lord and as such, have a regular pay and social status. Dame (pronounced Damm ) was the official title given to the wife of a knight (hence, madamme). These women were part of the lowest end of the aristocracy, with access to some wealthy clothing and dyes but not able to observe the more expensive fashions of women of the court. Majordomo Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress and underdress Cloak (optional) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple/ Fillet and Veil Pins Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch, Keys Tier 7 Male Lord Lords were wealthy landowners, with access to large personal wealth and notable social status. These men would be highly fashion-conscious as dressing to the latest styles and displaying ones wealth was a mark of status in a society where wealth was power. Even when these men did not fight they would frequently carry a sword as a mark of their status, and as a means of self-defence if accosted by routiers. Lord Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic/ Bliaut and court undertunic Mantled Cloak (optional) Braies and Hose Garters Ankle/Calf Boots Phrygian Hat Linen Coif Belt, Eating knife Sword/dagger at belt Hunting gloves (optional), Cross 14

15 Tier 7 Female Lady Ladies were wealthy landowners, with access to large personal wealth and notable social status. These women would be highly fashion-conscious as dressing to the latest styles and displaying ones wealth was a mark of status in a society where wealth was power. Lady Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress/Court Dress and underdress Mantled Cloak (optional) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple/ Fillet and Veil Pins Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch, Keys Tier 8 Male Baron Barons were landowners with extensive lands and access to vast wealth. These men would be highly fashion-conscious as dressing to the latest styles and displaying ones wealth was a mark of status in a society where wealth was power. Baron Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic/ Bliaut and court undertunic Mantled Cloak (optional) Braies and Hose Garters Ankle/Calf Boots Phrygian Hat Linen Coif Belt, Eating knife Sword/dagger at belt Hunting gloves (optional), Cross Tier 8 Female Noblewoman Noblewomen were landowners with extensive lands and access to vast wealth. These women would be highly fashion-conscious as dressing to the latest styles and displaying ones wealth was a mark of status in a society where wealth was power. Noblewoman Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress/Court Dress and underdress Mantled Cloak (optional) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple, Pins/ Barbette Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch, Keys 15

16 Upper Nobility Tier Laboratores Bellatores Oratores 9 Earl (M) Countess (F) Earl Archbishop (M) Patron Countess (F) Tier 9 Members and Clothing and Attire The upper nobility of Normannis- Tier 9 members do not have a separate equipment impression unique unto themselves. Rather they follow the Tier 8 regulations in clothing unless a specific variation is listed in the description of the item of clothing. To an extent, despite what estate the member is from primarily, Tier 9 members transcend a given estate whilst it may mark their primary focus and role, nobility were almost a fourth estate in period, as ruling, warfare and religion all comingled as the domain of the Upper Nobility. Earls, Countesses and Archbishops were the wealthiest prelates of the realm, and as such took great pains to mark their status in their clothing and attire. Members representing Tier 9 ranks should seek to attain the very best examples of equipment outlined below- as they should when taking to the field in a military capacity when selecting equipment from the Wargear Regulations. Symbols of Rank Earls, Countesses and Archbishops would all be of noble origins, and their heraldic motifs would adorn much of their clothing and possessions. As such, members of this rank are encouraged to have their heraldry something of a running theme in the decoration of their clothing and attire. 16

17 Secular Clothing Definitions 17

18 Clothing in General Colours In the twelfth century, access to dyes was limited by wealth. Some dyes, such as deep reds, blues, blacks and purples, were not easily obtained and came with a hefty price tag. As such the society restricts which colours members can use as the primary colour of their clothing items- this is to reflect an important reality of the 12 th century, and keeps the appearance of all equipment to an authentic palette. A dyes- were achieved with madder, and gave an orangey-red appearance. They would be of moderate price, but could be obtained in England. These dyes were easily impregnated into wool, but notoriously difficult to impregnate into linen. B dyes- were achieved by using kermes, an imported dye from the Levant. As such sparingly small amounts were used by all but the wealthiest- and as such a shade of pink was more common than the crimson a deep dye of kermes produced. C dyes- were achieved using onion dyes with varying mordants- this made yellow a popular and relatively cheap colour. The dye took to wool especially well, giving it a deep, yellow-gold colour. D dyes- in the case of wool, the D spectrum could be obtained directly from the sheep (and as such is not restricted). When obtained in linen these colours required oak galls and elements of madder, making is surprisingly expensive. E dyes- could be made with various copper salts- but at the cheapest extent could be obtained from goose faeces- making it a popular, cheap colour. F dyes- could be made cheaply from iron water and oak galls, but this damaged the fabric and tended to degrade rapidly. True black was achieved by mixing iris root and oak galls, and was exorbitant in period due to its inefficiency. G dyes- were achieved with woad. These dyes were obtainable in England but deep colours required a large number of over-dyes, increasing the expense. H dyes- were achieved with indigo and woad. As another imported dye indigo did not come cheaply- and bright, vivid blue was a highly expensive colour to achieve. I dyes- were achieved with indigo and Murcidicae (a shellfish shell) imported from the Levant. This dye was the most expensive dye available- and the concept of being of the purple was a byword for royalty. 18

19 A B C D E F G H I Tier 1 Linen: A1, C1 Tier 2 Linen: A1-G1 Tier 3 Linen: A1-G1, C2 Wool: A1, B1, C2, D, E1, F2, G2 Wool: A2, B2, C2, D, E1, F2, G2 Wool: A2, B2, C3, D, E2, F2, G3, H1 Tier 4 Linen: A1-G1, A2-G2 Wool: A3, B3, C4, D, E3, F3, G4, H2, I1 Tier 5 Linen: A1-H1, A2-G2 Wool: A3, B4, C4, D, E4, F3, G5, H3, I1 Tier 6 Linen: A2-H2, B3-G3 Wool: A3, B5, C4, D, E4, F4, G6, H4, I1 Tier 7 Linen: A1-3, B4-H4, I2 Wool: A3, B6, C4, D, E4, F4, G6, H4, I2 Tier 8 Linen/Wool: All EXCEPT I5 Silk: All EXCEPT I4-5 & F5 Tier 9 Linen/Wool/Silk: ALL Using the Dye-Chart The above dye-chart is not exhaustive, but it does give a wide spectrum of period colours and their acceptable ranks. Members are cautioned not to stray from the chart unless they have prior experience and knowledge of authentic dyes. 19

20 Embroidery Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Embroidery in period was a common way of decorating clothes. For the purposes of these regulations it is broken down into three overarching categories- Simple Normal Elaborate Not all period styles of embroidery are depicted, but these examples function as guidelines to help clarify. Simple embroidery typically features a continuous line of stitch, embellished in some manner and usually sticks to simple geometric motifs. Normal embroidery (simply called Embroidery in the descriptions below) is predominantly geometric in nature, but increasingly elaborate in detail. Not depicted are decorations that involve natural motifs such as vines- but these would be considered normal embroidery, unless they are highly elaborate. Elaborate (or extensive) embroidery typically involves highly work-intensive decoration where most background space is filled. Typically elaborate or extensive embroidery runs along zoomorphic (animal-based) themes, as these patterns were difficult to achieve and took great skill and effort to work repeatedly into a motif. All embroidery must use period threads- either genuine wool, linen or silk. Woven Decoration Woven decoration was produced by weaving linen or woollen threads to produce bands of patterned cloth that were then sewn to garments. In period this method of decoration was accessible to all, but more complex and colourful designs would have been more expensive (and thus a reflection of social rank and wealth). The design categories (as with embroidery) are defined as- Simple weaving which utilises simple geometric designs, usually with two colours. Normal weaving is double-faced, and include simple decorative motifs (such as crosses) and typically involves three colours. 20

21 Elaborate weaving is double-faced, can include metallic threads as brocade, and include complex motifs including heraldic decorations. More information can be found in the Guild of Drapers Tablet Weaving Guide which include more technical information regarding the construction of the three forms of tablet weaving. All weaving must use period threads- either genuine wool, linen or silk. Stonework / Metalwork Utilised as a form of decoration by the richest nobles of Western Europe, stonework was a form of applique where semi-precious stones were formed into beads and stitched to fabric in repeating patterns. Metalwork involved the use of gold or silver thread, sewn in embroidered patterns to literally create cloth of gold in areas of garments. In some cases small gold or silver shapes were holed and sew into stonework pieces. Necklines The necklines of Norman garments show different designs across different social classes. In general, garments belonging to poorer members of society had fewer splits in evidence; members are asked to consider this when deciding whether to split garment. Necklines show three distinct groupings - Split Where the neckline has a simple split in it, without additional fabric or shaping it is simply referred to as split. These splits tend to be very short (around 8cm), seemingly to allow the sides of the neck to be closer and still allow the head through. Where the garment is mantled, the mantle does not follow the line of the split, but rather the mantle follows the line of the neck and is split. They remain relatively rarely depicted as higher-class garments tended to mantle the split (and make it a feature of the design) or not split the garment at all. Dipped This manner of splitting the tunic seems to have been stylistically chosen, and simply easier to hem. They are shown predominantly on female dresses of the upper classes, as they expose 21

22 higher-necked undergarments well. Dipped necks are sometimes also mantled, following the cut of the neck, though this seems to be rarer than not (instances where it is allowed are listed explicitly in the regulations below). Dipped necklines are also depicted as quite short (8cm or so) in the rare cases they are shown on male garments- but could be around 15-20cm on rich female bliauts. Keyhole This manner of splitting the neckline is the most common on images of the very rich- and mostly seems to be in evidence on bliauts and court clothing. One theory is that it gave a good excuse to wear an ornate brooch at the neck, and the mantling gave a good basis for decoration. In some cases the mantle extended down the front of the tunic an extensive distance - though the split itself is only around 15-20cm at the most (measurements are given explicitly for ranks in the regulations below). 22

23 Battlefield Attire Body Court Undertunic (Battlefield) (B-T5-7) The court undertunic essentially comes in two forms- one which is worn under a bliaut (see below), and another, designed for use on the field by those members not wearing Full Maille. These garments should be generously gored, and feature an off-centre split that rises to mid-thigh and allows for free movement of the chosen leading leg. These garments should feature long, close-fitting sleeves cut to the mid-hand level with the base of the thumb, so that when pushed back to the wrist they feature distinct wrinkles as seen on period depictions. These tunics should reach the ankle (D on the chart) Variations by Tier Tier 5 members may have a court undertunic dyed to a pale, preferably heraldic colour. These may feature a line of simple embroidery at the bottom hem and sleeves. Tier 6-7 members may have a court undertunic dyed in a preferably heraldic colour. These tunics may feature embroidery or weaving at the sleeves and hem, preferably following a heraldic theme. Knees A B C D 23

24 Surcoat (B-T6-9) Surcoats were worn over maille for a series of reasons- not least that they provided a medium for heraldic identification- but also served to keep the armour beneath clean and dry. In Normannis only members wearing full maille wear surcoats, to mark their hit allowance and their status. Such garments must closely adhere to the design issued to each heraldry by the College of Heralds- but may feature horizontal or vertical splits, edgings, linings and crusader crosses blazoned on the breast. These garments should be made from linen, either one layer or two layers thick, cut in four panels with a seam down the centre of the chest and another down the sides. These garments should be cut so that they bell out gently, and not feature and gores. Surcoats should hang somewhere between the two red lines marked on the diagram (right) when worn over the intended armour and cinched with a suitable belt. Surcoats should feature a front and back-split that rises to just below the crotch at the front, and a few inches lower on the back. These garments may feature a short (8cm) split at the neck, and closed with a decorative brooch (when a cross is not worn on the field). Knees Surcoat Ankles Variations Surcoats may only be worn by members wearing full maille on the battlefield- but do not vary in design for those permitted to wear them. Decoration on surcoats must be part of the Grant of Cotte from the College of Heralds that accompanies a Grant of Arms - therefore no additional embroidered edges or linings should be included unless specified by the Master of the College. 24

25 Civilian Clothing Male Body Undertunic (Universal) The undertunic was universally worn under tunics as a washable layer, to prevent soiling the overtunic. It also acted as a nightgown as many men would sleep solely dressed in their undertunic. Undertunics should be a half-inch shorter than the tunic they are worn under, with close-fitting sleeves cut to the back of the hand level with the base of the thumb, so that when pushed back it features distinct wrinkles. Unless stated otherwise, there should be no split at the hem or neck, but the skirts should be gored to provide wide, freely-moving skirts. Variations by Tier Tier 1-2 should have undertunics made from natural, undyed linen. Tier 3-4 may have undertunics made from bleached linen. Tier 5-6 may have undertunics made from pale-dyed linen, featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. Tier 7 may have undertunics made from mid-dyed linen featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. They may also feature a short split (8cm) at the front of the neck, closed by a small suitable brooch. Tier 8-9 may have undertunics made from dyed linen or silk featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. They may also feature a short split (8cm) at the front of the neck, closed by a small suitable brooch. 25

26 Tunic (Universal) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The tunic was the universal outermost layer worn by 12 th century secular men. Tunics varied greatly in length- the general rule being that the richer the man, the longer and more widely gusseted his tunic. Tunics should feature wrist-length sleeves and must reach at least 4-6 inches below the knee (A on diagram)- ideal lengths are given. Embroidery, weaving or contrasting fabric can be attached at the neck, sleeves and more rarely, along the bottom hem, Variation By Tier Tier 1-2 may have tunics made from wool and may have simple embroidery/weaving or contrasting wool at the sleeves and mantle. They may very rarely feature a split or dipped neckline. A-B on diagram. Tier 3-4 may have tunics made from wool and may have embroidery/weaving and/or contrasting linen/wool at the sleeves and mantle. They may rarely feature a split or dipped neckline. B-C on diagram. Tier 5-6 may have tunics made from wool or thick linen (summer tunic) and may have embroidery/weaving and/or contrasting linen at the sleeves and mantle. The tunic may feature a split or mantled neckline- with a short (8cm) split. C on diagram. Tier 7 may have tunics made from wool or thick linen (summer tunic) and may have extensive embroidered/woven decoration around the hems as well as decorative bands of embroidery or weaving around the biceps. These tunics may feature a keyhole neck, extending 30cm down the tunic front and feature a long (up to 10cm) split at the neck. C on diagram. Tier 8-9 may have tunics made from wool, thick linen or silk and may have extensive embroidered/woven decoration around the hems as well as decorative bands of embroidery or weaving around the biceps. These tunics may feature a keyhole neck, extending 40cm down the tunic front and feature a long (up to 20cm) split at the neck. C-D on diagram. Knees A B C D 26

27 Court Undertunic (Civilian) (B-L-T7-T9) The court undertunic is worn under a Bliaut to compliment the other long issuing clothing of the court. These garments should be cut to the D line on the diagram (see right). When worn under a Bliaut these garments should not feature any splits, with wide, generous skirts featuring between two and five gores arranged symmetrically around the bottom hem. They may additionally feature a plaquet of embroidery around 6cm wide around the entire bottom hem of the tunic, in a contrasting coloured linen. Variation By Tier Tier 7 may have a court undertunic of linen in a pale-to-mid contrasting shade to their Bliaut. These may feature embroidery at the sleeve and along the bottom hem. Knees A B C D Tier 8-9 may have a court undertunic of either linen or silk, in a contrasting colour to their Bliaut. These may feature extensive embroidery at the sleeve and along the hem. 27

28 Bliaut (B-L- T7-T9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The Bliaut is a court over garment worn by members of the landed gentry and nobility. These garments may be cut to the calf/ankle or sit higher to show the court undertunic beneath (C-D on length diagram, above). A bliaut may feature an off-centre split down the left or right leg (marked in red, right) These garments are heavily gored to provide wide, flowing skirts and may feature a variety of sleeve styles ranging from elbow length fitted, loose and belled (A, B, C on diagram, right) or full length sleeves with court sleeve gores (D on diagram, right). Variation By Tier Tier 7- may have a Bliaut made of wool or linen dyed to a suitable colour, and may be lined in a contrasting coloured linen. These garments may feature contrasting fabric and/or embroidered/woven decoration at the hems, and decorative or embroidered decoration at the bicep The neckline may feature a short split (8cm) keyhole neck (15cm split). Tier 8-- may have a Bliaut made of wool, linen or silk dyed to a suitable colour and may be lined in a contrasting coloured linen or silk. These garments may feature contrasting fabric and/or embroidered/woven decoration at the hems, and decorative or embroidered decoration at the bicep. The neckline may feature a short split (8cm) or a keyhole neck split (20cm). The mantle itself can extend some 30cm down the tunic front. Tier 9-- may have a Bliaut made of linen or silk dyed to a suitable colour and may be lined in a contrasting coloured linen or silk. These garments should feature extensive elaborate woven decoration, or embroidery on applied bands of silk, feature heraldic themed designs, as well as stone and metalwork decoration at the hems and encircling the bicep. The neckline may feature a keyhole neck split (20cm). The mantle itself can extend some 30cm down the tunic front. 28

29 Legs Braies (Universal) Braies are worn by all male members as a method for anchoring the Hose. These feature two legs formed of linen tubes interconnected by a crotch section. A length of leather thonging or woven fabric is threaded around the waist to allow the braies to be cinched tight pulling in large amounts of excess to allow for wide ranging movement. Braies should, therefore be made significantly larger than required in both waist and thighs to allow for this movement when laced tightly. Sections of the waist-tie should be exposed (see above) to allow the hose to be laced up. Variation By Tier Tier 1-2 should wear natural linen braies. Tier 3-9 should wear braies made from white bleached linen. Hose (Universal) Hose are tubes of woollen fabric cut on the bias to fit closely to the leg, with a single seam running down the back of the garment. These may incorporate a fitted foot (preferable) or a leather stirrup (for members wearing Ankle Boots only). Hose should feature a hemmed pair of holes at the topmost extent so they can be laced to the braies with woven fabric or leather thonging. Garters Members are encouraged to wear lengths of leather thonging or woven fabric around their knees to keep the lower section of the hosen taut. 29

30 Winningas (L-B T1-2) Winningas are lengths of woven, hemmed woollen fabric wound around the leg from the top of the calf to the shin and then secured with a length of fabric cord or leather thonging. These were designed to protect the lower leg from brambles and undergrowth- commonly worn by working men when in the fields. 30

31 Head Linen Coif (Universal) A linen coif follows the same form as an arming cap- made from three panels of linen- two cladding the sides of the head and a central fillet that covers the top of the head. These should feature ties of hemmed doubled linen that tie under the chin. Variation By Tier Tier 1-2 should wear natural linen coifs. Tier 3-4 should wear coifs made from white bleached linen. Tier 4-5 should wear coifs dyed a pale complimentary colour to their tunic. Tier 6-9 should wear linen coifs dyed a dark colour and may have embroidered decoration along the bottom hem. Acorn Cap (L T1-5) A hat constructed from five or more rounded segments to produce a close-fitting round-topped cap. These hats should be made from wool in an allowable colour- preferably rather thick and partially felted. These caps may feature a brim of woven decoration or simple embroidery- and should, for preference, be lined with a contrasting colour of linen. Phrygian Cap (Universal) A cap constructed from two panels of wool with a distinct peak that is folded down at the front (it should not stick up). These hats should be made from wool in an allowable colour- preferably rather thick and partially felted. These caps may feature a brim of woven decoration or simple embroidery- and should, for preference, be lined with a contrasting colour of linen Variation By Tier Tier 8-9 may have a complex, zoomorphic or heraldic design embroidered or appliqued on the flanks of the cap, in line with the depiction of Geoffrey of Anjou with heraldic lions on the flanks of his headwear. 31

32 Hood (B-L T1-5) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The hood was worn as a universal waterproof head covering and mantle by working men- usually over a Linen Coif (see above). These garments should be constructed from relatively thick, felted wool, and the mantle should fall to the shoulders/upper bicep. These garments should ideally feature front and back gores to give the mantle volume, and may feature a short (6-8 ) tail hanging from the back of the head, or conform closely to the curve of the back of the skull. These garments may feature a line of simple embroidery around the bottom hem, and may be lined in a contrasting colour linen. 32

33 Female Body Underdress (Universal) The underdress was universally worn under dressed and gowns as a washable layer, to prevent soiling the dress. It also acted as a nightgown as many women would sleep solely dressed in their undertunic. Underdresses should be cut so that when hemmed they drape along the top arch of the foot, trailing slightly on the ground when stood up straight, with close-fitting sleeves cut to the back of the hand level with the base of the thumb, so that when pushed back it features distinct wrinkles. There should be no split at the hem or neck, but the skirts should be gored to provide wide, freely-moving skirts. Variations by Tier Tier 1-2 should have underdresses made from natural, undyed linen. Tier 3-4 may have underdresses made from bleached linen. Tier 5-6 may have underdresses made from pale-dyed linen, featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. Tier 7 may have underdresses made from mid-dyed linen featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. These garments may additionally feature a collar rising around 5-7cm around the neck, stiffened so that it conforms to the shape of the neck. This may in turn be split 5cm down into the body of the underdress. Tier 8-9 may have underdresses made from dyed linen or silk featuring embroidery at the neck and sleeve ends. These garments may additionally feature a collar rising around 5-7cm around the neck, stiffened so that it conforms to the shape of the neck. The collar itself can be split to the level of the main body of the underdress. 33

34 Dress (Universal) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The dress was the universal outermost layer worn by 12 th century secular women. Dresses varied predominantly in cut- being tighter in the bodice and more generous in the sleeve as a reflection of wealth. All dresses should drape along the top arch of the foot, trailing slightly on the ground when stood up straight. Dresses may feature two, three, four or five gores arranged symmetrically along the bottom hem. Embroidery/weaving or contrasting fabric can be attached at the neck, sleeves and more rarely, along the bottom hem. Belled sleeves (B) should feature a contrasting lining in either linen (universal) or silk (T7-9). Variation By Tier A B Tier 1-3 should have woollen dresses with close-fitting (A) sleeves and should have skirts featuring at least two gores, and may have simple embroidery/weaving or contrasting wool at the sleeves and neck. Tier 4-5 should have woollen or, more rarely linen dresses with close-fitting (A), or belled sleeves (B), generously gored in the skirts. These dresses should be as closely fitted in the bodice as possible without lacing- the central torso panel may be cut on the bias to achieve this. These garments may have embroidery/weaving and/or contrasting wool or linen at the sleeves and neck, which may feature a short (8cm) split or dip. Tier 6-7 should have woollen or linen dresses with close-fitting (A) or preferably belled sleeves (B), generously gored in the skirts and side-laced between the bottom of the sleeve and the top of the skirt gores to achieve a tight fit. These garments may have embroidery/weaving and/or contrasting wool or linen at the sleeves and neck which may feature a longer (10cm) dipped neckline which is then closed with a brooch. Tier 8-9 should have silk, woollen or more rarely, linen dresses with close-fitting (A) or belled sleeves (B), generously gored in the skirts and side-laced between the bottom of the sleeve and the top of the skirt gores to achieve a close, tight fit. These garments may have embroidery/weaving and/or contrasting wool or linen at the sleeves and neck which may feature a longer (10cm) dipped neckline which is then closed with a brooch.* 34

35 Court Dress (L- T7-9) These garments were sometimes described as a bliaut, as the term described a flowing gown for Waist either gender; the term Court Dress is used to avoid confusion. These dresses should be cut so that when hemmed they conceal the feet entirely. They should be generously gored- ideally featuring between three or seven gores arranged symmetrically along the bottom hem. These garments feature court or pendulum sleeves (see image, above) that should reach the waist when the arms are outstretched. These dresses should feature deep gores at the sides- (see right) the laces run from the hemmed edges of the back and front panel, over the top of lacing gore, effectively stitching the sides closed tightly. Ideally this should conceal both the lacing and the gore with all excess tucked in. The lacing should be placed at the sides between the armpit and skirt gores. Embroidery or woven fabric can be attached at the neck, sleeves and more rarely, along the bottom hem. They may feature a long (20cm) dipped neck split or a keyhole neck. These should be edged with contrasting fabricbut not extend further down the bodice much longer than the split itself. These garments were exclusively the preserve of the rich and as such should feature highly decorative embroidery. Variation By Tier Tier 7 may have court dresses made of linen or more rarely, wool. These should feature embroidery/woven decoration around at least the sleeves and neck. Tier 8 may have court dresses made of silk or linen or more rarely, wool. These should feature extensive embroidery/woven decoration around the sleeves, neck and skirts. Tier 9 may have court dresses made of silk or linen or more rarely, wool. These garments should feature extensive woven decoration or embroidery on applied bands of silk, feature heraldic themed designs, as well as stone and metalwork decoration at the hems. Armpit gore Lacing gore Lacing holes Skirt gore 35

36 Legs Stockings (Universal) Stockings are leg coverings that roughly match the construction of the lower half of hosen- they reach from the toes to just above the knee. The top hem is flipped back on itself to form a tube around the top hem that encloses a woven fabric cord or leather tie to secure it to the leg. These garments should be relatively tight to the leg, although not to the same extent as hosen. Variation By Tier Tier 1-7 should have stockings made of linen or fine worsted wool. Tier 8-9 should have stockings made of linen, fine worsted wool or silk. 36

37 Head Wimple (Universal) Women covered their heads as a matter of course in 12 th century society. The most common form of female headwear was the wimple- consisting of a rectangular length of hemmed fabric measuring roughly 2 by 4 6. The wimple should be wrapped around the head and shoulders to completely cover the head, and secured in place with one or more wimple pins (see Wimple Pins in Jewellery and Accoutrements). Variation By Tier Tier 1-2 should have wimples of natural linen. Tier 3-7 should have wimples of bleached linen. Tier 8-9 should have wimples of bleached linen or silk. These garments may feature whitework - applied embroidery in simple diapered geometric patterns in matching thread to the background garment. Fillet and Veil (L T5-7) The wimple remained popular across all tiers of society, but amongst wealthier women, headwear that was slightly more revealing began to develop. The fillet and veil consists of a band of fabric worn either around the head horizontally (temple to temple) or around the head vertically (over the head and under the chin) the fillet- to which an oval veil some 3 by 2 is attached by wimple pins. Due to the limited scope of rank that these garments cover, they should always be made of fine, bleached linen. 37

38 Barbette (L T8-9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Women of the highest social standing in 12 th century Europe had begun to push the boundaries of accepted modesty. Female prelates such as Eleanor of Aquitaine led a small-scale sexual revolution by wearing solely a barbette at court- and many noblewomen of Europe began to emulate the style. The Barbette consists of two parts- a linen coif with broad flaps that pin under the chin, and a circular crown of leather clad in white fabric. These garments may be made from bleached linen or silk, and feature whitework - applied embroidery in simple diapered geometric patterns in matching thread to the background garment. 38

39 Unisex Clothing Cloak (Universal) Cloaks were worn by both sexes as a topmost layer. These varied in length and design dependent on class and practical considerations. All cloaks should be made from a suitably heavy grade of wool that hangs well, but provides real protection from the elements. Cloaks should be secured with either ties (see Variations below) or by a suitable period brooch (see Cloak Brooches in Jewellery and Accoutrements). Variation By Tier Tier 1-2 should have relatively short (A-B), rectangular-pattern cloaks secured at the shoulder with an annular brooch. These garments may feature simple embroidery and may be lined in a contrasting shade of wool or natural linen. Tier 3-4 may have cloaks as described above, or three quarter cloaks, formed of round-bottomed triangular panels so that the cloak drapes around the shoulders and hangs to at least the calves (C-D), with a leading edge drawn over one shoulder and secured in place with an annular brooch. These garments may feature embroidery around the hems and be lined in a contrasting shade of wool or linen. Tier 5-7 may have either of the designs mentioned above, or a full circle cloak formed in a large circle with a hole for the neck and a slit opening. These may be formed in one piece if a large enough piece of wool can be sourced, or sewn from panels in the same manner as a three quarter cloak (described above). These garments should hang to the ankles (D), and should be lined in a contrasting colour of linen, as well as featuring embroidery along the hems, and for knightly members, heraldic motifs on the left breast. These cloaks may (rarely) be secured with leather ties sewn to the left and right sides of the throat. Tier 8-9 may have any of the above designs of cloak, extensively decorated with embroidery or appliqued designs. Knees A B C D 39

40 Mantled Cloak (B-L T7-9) The mantled cloak is a specific sub type of full-circle cloak that features a mantle panel across the shoulders in contrasting fabric that is extensively decorated. As an item of court clothing, these garments should be made in deeply coloured, rich woollen cloth, hang to the ankles (D on diagram, see previous page) and be secured at the throat with a highly decorative brooch. These garments may be lined with faux or ethically sourced period fur in period fur patterns (such as vair). Variation By Tier Tier 7 may have cloaks with mantles of fine quality linen. These should be extensively decorated with applique and embroidery, preferably with heraldic motifs. Tier 8 may have cloaks with mantles of silk or linen. These mantles should be extensively decorated with applique of contrasting silk, wool or linen, feature extensive embroidery, preferably with heraldic motifs. Tier 9 should have cloak mantles of silk featuring extensive embroidery and/or appliqued decoration. These garments may also feature applied stone and/or metalwork as part of their decoration. 40

41 Leather Colours Leather Attire Leather in Normannis period of interest varied greatly in thickness, beast of origin and colour. The tanning process could render a range of browns relatively cheaply, using oak galls, vegetable dyes and a range of animal by-products. These were relatively universally available. The colour spectrum for leathers- please note this will vary from computer to computer. 'Cherry Brown' should be an orange-brown, whereas Ox Blood SHOULD be a deep red- but seem similar at a casual glance. Additional to the range of browns were two expensive colours- Golden Tan and Ox Blood. Golden Tan was achieved by using a series of copper salts and onion dye stain to render a golden-yellow colour- this was quite expensive and not widely used. Ox Blood red was achieved in the obvious manner- after an ox was slaughtered its blood was kept and applied generously to undyed leather. This would be reapplied in layers of stain until a deep red was achieved. As ox blood was a limited food resource (used for black-pudding like dishes) the waste of gallons was a considerable expense, and therefore the preserve of the highly wealthy landed classes. 41

42 Shoes (Male: B-L T1-T7 Female: Universal) All shoes should be made in a suitable leather (waterproof, some shade of brown) and be well-maintained. All shoes may feature slats of leather nailed and glued in place to provide more grip, or hobnails. All shoes may be lined in rabbit or sheepskin to make them warmer and more comfortable. Variations By Rank The three illustrations to the right demonstrate the predominate styles of 12 th century ankle-shoes. There seems to be little rank correspondence in period, though there does seem to be a gender split- S1 Women are depicted wearing (S1) or (S2) shoes. Men are depicted wearing all three designs, but (S2) more rarely. S2 S3 42

43 Ankle Boots (Male: Universal Female: N/A) For practical reasons, farming and hunting communities have often preferred higher, more secure footwear that offers support to the ankle and basic protection to the lower leg. Ankle boots should reach the bottom of the shin, and lace closely to the ankle- either in a series of ties or laces, or as a single continuous lace that passes around the ankle multiple times before tying off. Buckles on this style of shoe are not acceptable. All shoes may feature slats of leather nailed and glued in place to provide more grip, or hobnails. All shoes may be lined in rabbit or sheepskin to make them warmer and more comfortable. B1 Variations By Rank The forms of shoe depicted are acceptable for any rank or estate- and are especially encouraged for members taking part in combat displays as part of the Bellatores. B2 Calf Boots (B-L T8-9) Calf boots are usually depicted being worn by princes and Earls- and are, therefore assumed to be rich footwear. Calf Boots should reach to the bottom of the calf- and should never approach the knee- they were, in essence, tall, more developed ankleboots. These shoes may be secured by multiple laces, but more preferably should be tied closed with a single lace or buckled strap that spirals around the leg, cinching the boot closed. 43

44 Belts (Universal) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Belts were worn by both sexes almost universally during the 12 th century, cinching the waist of both tunics and dresses, and functioning as an anchor point for eating knives and pouches. All Normannis belts must be made from a suitable, period-acceptable leather (a shade of vegetable tan, brown, golden-yellow or red, dependent on rank) and leave a tail of excess length (roughly 1 ) which is tied off in such a manner that it hangs vertically. Where belts feature buckles and strap ends these should match the rough designs shown (right). A B1 B2 C1 C2 C3 Variations By Rank Tier 1-2 members may have a belt featuring a D-loop buckle (A) of brass or iron, or an iron buckle with a riveting plate (B1) with or without a matching end (B2). Alternatively members can wear a tie-belt without a buckle that features a hole that the belt end passes through before being tied off, in a similar manner to sword-belts. These belts must be brown or veg-tan in colour, and may feature leather carving/tooling. Tier 3-5 members may have a belt with a D-loop buckle with or without a riveting plate (A, B1) and belt end (B2), preferably in pewter or brass. These belts must be a shade of brown in colour and may feature leather carving/tooling. Tier 6-7 members should have a belt with a decorative D-loop buckle with a riveting plate (C1) and belt end (C3) of brass alloy or pewter. These belts must be brown, gold or red in colour and feature some additional riveted decorations such as studs (D1-3) and plates (C2) in pewter or brass and leather carving/tooling. For preference these belts should feature a long hanging tail in excess of 2. Tier 8-9 members may have a belt with a rivet-plated buckle and belt end of brass alloy or pewter (C1, C3). These belts may be brown, golden-yellow or red in colour, and should feature extensive riveted decoration (C2, D1-3) and leather tooling. For preference these belts should feature a long hanging tail around a yard in length. 44

45 Pouches and Satchels (Universal) Pouches and satchels were practical methods of carrying items that could not be otherwise suspended from belts- given the lack of pockets in medieval garments. Satchels could be relatively small, and slung from a narrow band of thonging down across the chest, secured in place with the belt worn over them. These satchels vary in size from around 18cm to up to 30cm long- and could be either rectangular or rhomboid in construction. Satchels can be secured either with leather thonging in a tie-and-hole system, or a tongue and loop system. Variations By Rank Tier 1-2 members may have either a drawstring pouch or an envelope satchel in brown or veg-tan leather. The satchel should feature a two tie system, or a tongue-and-loop which can feature an iron strap-end. Tier 3-5 members may have either a drawstring pouch or an envelope satchel in brown leather. The satchel may feature either a simple two tie closing or a tongue-and-loop closing featuring a simple pewter or iron strap end. Tier 6-7 members may have a deep leather drawstring purse with suspension loops or laces mounted on one side. The pouch may be made of any allowable colour. These pouches may feature a single drawstring or a double drawstring that closes and partially cinches the pouch. Tier 8-9 members may have a deep leather drawstring purse with suspension loops or laces mounted on one side. The pouch may be made of any allowable colour. These pouches may feature a single drawstring or a double drawstring that closes and partially cinches the pouch. They may also feature suitable decoration to the leather and coloured silk cordage to cinch them. Alternatively, these members which to carry Aumônières (see below). 45

46 Hunting Gloves (B-L T5-9) Hunting gloves were worn by noblemen during outside activities- in a word where men disdained of washing their hands often, it was practical to keep them clean from dirt and blood. These garments should reach below the wristfeaturing wide, flared cuffs of the same leather as the hand. These gloves should feature individual fingers, and may feature linen or silk thread embroidery along the bottom of the cuff. Variations By Rank Tier 5-6 members may have gloves, without decoration, in brown leather. Tier 7 members may have gloves in brown leather with a line of embroidery in coloured linen or silken thread along the bottom cuff of the glove. This should preferably be a complex continuous line. Tier 8 members may have gloves in brown or oxblood leather with a line of embroidery as described above or an attached strip of woven decoration or embroidered fabric along the bottom of the cuff. Tier 9 members may have gloves in brown or oxblood leather. These items may be decorated with applied strips of embroidery or applied metalwork or stonework decoration around the cuffs- this should be sewn to the leather in the same manner as it would be on fabric. 46

47 Jewellery and Accoutrements Period Jewellery Norman society was obsessed with wealth and status- and this is nowhere more apparent than in the range of functional metalwork that people wore. Where possible these would be as decorative and ostentatious as people could afford- an outward sign of their wealth and status that would receive some immediate recognition. Purely decorative jewellery was rare outside of the richer mercantile or landed classes- it was rare for even the wealthiest of secular men to wear rings, and metal pendantry was unknown amongst poorer men. The lists and designs below are in no way exhaustive, but are excellent examples of their type and should be used for reference as a typical example. Items that do not seem to conform to these designs at all should be treated with extreme caution and checked with senior officers or primary sourcebooks of archaeological finds. Most crosses should be suspended on lengths of thonging or woven fabric- the richest members (Tier 8, 9) may have period-style chains in acceptable metals- these would be rare and somewhat crude compared to modern jewellery chains, and form an unbroken loop without clasp. Period Materials In period, Norman society used gold, silver, brass alloys and adulterated silver alloys (pewter) for decorative items. Purely functional items were more commonly made from iron, blackened to prevent rust and degradation. Members may have items in any of these materials- though below brass alloy and pewter are stated rather than repeating that gold and silver are also acceptable (though prohibitively expensive!). Stones are sometimes set in the most decorative items- these were most often semiprecious gemstones such as jet, garnet and topaz. The richest items would incorporate amethyst, rubies, emeralds, pearls and most rarely, diamonds. Modern reproductions that are indistinguishable from the genuine article are equally allowable. 47

48 Crosses (Universal) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Crosses were universally worn as a sign of faith as well as a form of basic jewellerythese varied greatly in design, construction and form. The designs given are not the only acceptable designs of their type, but are excellent archetypal examples with good archaeological basis and should be used as a benchmark by those who are unsure. Variations By Rank Tier 1-2 members may wear a cross formed of wood, either two simple worked twigs tied together, or a carefully carved cross in wood or bone. (A/B) Tier 3-4 members should wear either a carved cross in wood or bone (B) or a coin or similar silver disc marked with a cross (C). Tier 5-6 members should wear a small cross of either pewter or brass alloy (D), or more rarely a larger variant (E, F). Tier 7- members should wear a large decorative cross of pewter or brass alloy, polished to simulate gold (E, F). Tier 8-9 members may wear either large decorative crosses in pewter or brass alloy, polished to simulate gold or silver (E, F) with additional decorative heraldic work or inlaid stones or enamel. Members may also wear cruciform with inlaid stones and extensive decorative work (G)- these may be of silver or gold or a suitable substitute. These crosses may be hung from decorative chains of period design. 48

49 Rosaries (Female-Universal) Rosaries were worn in the same manner as crosses- as a mark of faith- but seem to have been worn solely on the belts of women in secular culture. Like crosses, these varied greatly in design and construction across society- but always conformed to the basic design of a single cross on a length of thread or sinew that featured a series of beads. Variations By Rank Tier 1-4 members may have a rosary of wooden or clay beads with a wooden or bone cross conforming to (B) on the cross chart. Tier 5-6 members may have a rosary of stone, wooden or clay beads with a wooden or bone cross conforming to (B), or a pewter cross matching (D) on the cross chart. Tier 7 members may have a rosary of precious stone, amber or rare wooden beads with a brass or pewter cross matching (D) on the cross chart. Tier 8-9 members may have a rosary of precious stone, amber or faux ivory beads with a brass or pewter cross matching (D), (E), (F) or (G) on the cross chart. Cloak Brooches (Universal) Cloaks were usually closed with an annular (circular) brooch featuring a single spike that impaled the fabric. The retaining ring could be rounded or flat. Variation By Tier Tier 1-4 should have relatively plain annulars made of brass alloy, pewter or iron. These may feature inset decoration (A, B). Tier 5-9 may have brass or pewter annulars of any design- but should seek decorative designs such as (E) and (D) especially. A C E B D 49

50 Wimple Pins (Universal) Wimple pins were worn to secure the folds of fabric at the temples- and varied from very simple to highly decorative. Variation By Tier Tier 1-4 should have relatively plain pins made of brass alloy or more rarely, steel. These pins may be formed with a head or a simple peened-over end (A, B). Tier 5-9 may have brass or pewter pins that may simply feature a head (B), or more preferably, decorative semi-precious stones set into the end (C). A B C Keys (Female-L-T6-9 Male-L- T6 Steward) Keys were worn as a mark of rank in the 12 th century- carrying the keys to a house or castle marked the symbolic custodianship of the property. This was an outward sign that women were their husband s trusted lieutenant, rather than simply his legal spouse, and that Stewards and Majordomo were empowered with the trust and executorship of an estate in the Lord s absence. These items should always be made from iron or copper alloy A (dependent on rank), and be worn suspended from an iron ring threaded on to the belt. B Variations By Rank Tier 6-7 members may carry iron keys matching the form shown (A), and/or a single brass alloy keys matching the form of (B). Tier 8-9 members may carry multiple brass alloy keys matching the form of (B), and may carry an additional great estate made of either iron or brass matching the form of (C). C 50

51 Aumônières (B-L-T8-T9) Aumônières were richly decorated silk purses that traditionally carried money. They were secured by a double draw string of silk thread at the neck, and featured a string to suspend them from the belt. Due to rarity of depiction in art, it is unclear whether these items were truly unisex, or favoured by women of the period. The purses themselves were richly decorated and worn to public gatherings, ostensibly to distribute alms to poor onlookers. Due to the longevity of well-stored silk, several extant Aumônières remain, and members are encouraged to find primary examples to model their own purses on. As these items are purely the preserve of the magnate class, they should be made from silk, featuring elaborate embroidered decoration, (either repeated motifs, or zoomorphic or pictorial scenes) and the strings may be hung with decorative beads. 51

52 Monastic and Clerical Clothing (Oratores) 52

53 Monastic and Clerical Clothing By Rank (Oratores) 53

54 Oratores Clothing in General Clothing for members of monastic orders was highly proscriptive and worn at all times- marking the monk or nun s devotion to the aesthetic life. Members of the clergy, however, did not always wear full vestments, and instead may only wear nominal marks of their church rank. For more information about alternative kit impressions for clergy, consult the Ecclesiastical Regulations. Tier Male Female 1 Lay Tenant / Lay Brother Lay Tenant 2 Acolyte / Novice Novice 3 Parochial Vicar / Monk Nun 4 Deacon / Brother Dean Sister 5 Priest / Monastic Priest Magistra 6 Dean / Prior Prioress 7 Archdeacon / Abbot Abbess Colours in the Oratores 8 Bishop / Patron Baroness Senior Abbess Colours in Monastic Orders and the church were often proscribed by the order or monasticism or degree of importance a person occupied in the church. As such normal clothing colour restrictions do not apply when dealing with church vestments or habits- the colours that these may be are specified in the descriptions of such items. A Note on Black Whilst some monastic orders specified that their habits should be black, these were not the same black as was achieved by careful use of expensive dyes. This was, rather, a very deep brown taken from Welsh Black sheep, overdyed with oak galls and iron water. This would produce a very deep grey (F4 on colour chart), though the cloth would often be rough and degrade quickly. In Normannis, only Tier 6 and above monastics should have true black (F6 on colour chart). 54

55 Tier 1 - Lay Tenant (M/F) This is the starter rank for members wanting to join the Clergy of the Oratores in Normannis. Lay Tenants would work the land of the Church in return for a home and livelihood. As such they were dressed very much like their peers, but lived in service of the church rather than other secular landholders. Male Female Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic and Cloak (optional) Scapular (optional) Dress and underdress Cloak (optional) Scapular (optional) Braies and hose (Winningas T1-2) Garters (optional) Shoes/Ankle Boots Stockings (optional) Shoes Acorn/Phrygian cap Hood and/or Linen Coif Wimple, Pins Belt Eating knife Cross Pouch Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch Tier 1 - Lay Brother / Lay Tenant This is the starter rank for members wanting to join the Monastic orders of the Oratores in Normannis. Lay Tenants would work the land of the Monastery in return for a home and livelihood. As such they were dressed very much like their peers, but lived in service of the church rather than other secular landholders. Male Female Body Legs Head Accoutrements Tunic and Undertunic, Scapular (optional) Dress and underdress Scapular (optional) Braies and hose (Winningas T1-2) Garters (optional) Shoes/Ankle Boots Stockings (optional) Shoes Acorn/Phrygian cap Hood and/or Linen Coif Wimple, Pins Belt Eating knife Cross Pouch Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch 55

56 Tier 2 Acolyte Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a In the 12 th Century this position was usually a starting path for younger members of the Church wanting to become a priest. As such they would not wear clerical vestments save an alb to mark their apprenticeship to the church. Body Legs Head Accoutrements Acolyte Natural Linen Alb Braies and Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle Boots No headwear Simple Rope Cincture Tier 2 Novice Members of the laity that wanted to join a monastic community would first become a novice. This lasted one year, at the end which simple vows were then taken. Novices dressed in proscribed clothing to show their initiation into monastic life. Male Female Body Legs Head Accoutrements Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Scapular Black woollen habit worn over linen shift Scapular Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals No head covering, Tonsure (optional) Natural Linen Wimple Rope cincture, Monastic Cross Rope Cincture Monastic Cross Tier 3 - Parochial Vicar The lowest form of ordained clergy, a Vicar would be the spiritual advisor to the smaller hamlets and villages. Although part of the Secular Church Vicars could also wear normal lay clothing and were generally not afforded much wealth from the Church. Body Legs Head Accoutrements Vicar Natural Linen Alb Braies and Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle Boots 56 Black Calotte Simple Rope Cincture, wooden cross

57 Tier 3 - Monk / Nun Members of the laity who have taken vows and joined one of the monastic orders were considered a full monk or nun. These men and women were always dressed in their monastic habit, which served as a uniform, marking their devotion to God. Male Female Body Legs Head Accoutrements Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Scapular Black woollen habit worn over a linen shift Scapular Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals No head covering, Tonsure (optional) Natural Linen Coif with White Linen Veil Rope cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Rope Cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Tier 4 Deacon Deacons were priests-in-training. A Deacon would generally perform similar duties to an Acolyte but usually in the service of a Bishop and be part of his entourage- as such these members of the clergy would rarely wear their civilian clothes, but may on occasion. Body Legs Head Accoutrements Deacon Natural Linen Alb Braies & Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle Boots Black Calotte Linen Cincture, Pewter Cross 57

58 Tier 4 - Brother Dean / Sister Deans and Sisters were respected members of an order, given more authority and responsibility usually to run entire sections of the monastery or convent. Typically they would not wear the scapula, as they would rarely engage in manual labour. Brother Dean Sister Body Legs Head Accoutrements Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Black woollen habit worn over a linen shift Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals No head covering, Tonsure (optional) Natural Linen Coif with Black Linen Veil Rope cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Rope Cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Tier 5 Priest Members of the medieval church, usually the local figurehead of larger Parishes in Towns or Larger Villages. Priests were at least maintained by the church, if not financially thriving. Medieval priests had as much social influence as their ecclesiastic presence, and served a strong secular role as figureheads of the community. As such these men would often wear the marks of their office day-to-day as a mark of their authority. Priest Bleached Linen Alb, Stole Body Legs Head Accoutrements Braies and Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle boots Black Calotte Linen Cincture, Pewter Cross 58

59 Tier 5 Monastic Priest/Magistra Within the monastic community ordained monastic priests tended primarily to the needs of the monastery, but could also serve as a local community outreach - a role that would later evolve into the concept of a friar. Magistra were particularly learned members of female monastic communities- who were considered experts within a given field of theology. They would teach within the community and be consulted at certain seminaries. In some cases, they would be responsible for small communities of nuns not formally organised into a priory. M.Priest Magistra Body Legs Head Accoutrements Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Stole Black woollen habit worn over a linen shift Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals Matching woollen Cowl, Tonsure (optional) Black Calotte Natural Linen Coif with Black Linen Veil Rope cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Rope Cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Tier 6 Dean High ranking priests that are given more freedom and powers from their respective Bishop in a diocese. In a medieval Cathedral, the Dean would act as the Bishop s administrative arm and deal with proceedings in his bishopric whilst the Bishop was away on Ecclesiastical duties. Dean Body Legs Head Accoutrements Linen alb with linen or silk stole or Linen Shift, Black Woollen Habit Braies and Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle boots Black Calotte Linen Cincture, Pewter Cross 59

60 Tier 6 Prior/Prioress Monks or Nuns that had been popular and well experienced within their community were elected Prior or Prioress. Once elected they would retain their position for life, responsible for the running and upkeep of a Priory. Prior Prioress Body Legs Head Accoutrements Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Black woollen or linen Monastic Habit, Linen shift Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals Matching woollen Cowl, Tonsure (optional) Bleached Linen Coif with Black Linen Veil Rope cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Rope Cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Tier 7 Archdeacon Within the Catholic Church, the post of Archdeacon, was once one of great importance as a senior official of a diocese. As part of the direct entourage of a Bishop, the Archdeacon would be given great freedom to tour a bishopric to help maintain the order and training of his priests. Archdeacon Body Legs Head Accoutrements Silk Alb and stole or Linen Shift, Black Woollen Habit Braies and Woollen Hosen, Shoes/Ankle Boots Black Calotte Silk Cincture, Brass Cross 60

61 Tier 7 Abbot/Abbess Abbots and Abbess were generally perceived the same rank as Priors and Prioress however Abbeys were generally much bigger than Priories and were looked upon with greater esteem within the community. Therefore, within Normannis the title of Abbot is one bestowed to a higher rank. Abbot Woollen Habit (correct colour for order) worn over a linen shift Black woollen or linen Abbess Monastic Habit, Linen shift Body Legs Head Accoutrements Shoes / Sandals Shoes / Sandals Matching woollen Cowl, Tonsure (optional) Bleached Linen Coif with Black Linen Veil Rope cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Rope Cincture, Monastic Cross, Rosary Tier 8 Bishop Members of the upper echelons of church society, Bishops exerted distinct influence both as religious figureheads and secular lords. Within Normannis, if there is more than one Bishop at an event the Bishop to whom the event is closest can wear their entire ceremonial mass Vestments. For the Bishops that are visiting a Mozetta is worn over a habit signifying they are Bishop (X) in partibus Infidelium ( in the countries of infidels ) and are out of their Bishopric, therefore not the senior Bishop in attendance. Bishop Body Legs Head Accoutrements Silk Alb, Amice, Silk Cincture, Stole, Dalmatic, Chasuble, Mozetta (optional if more than 1 Bishop is in attendance at any one event) Or Bliaut, Court undertunic Or Black Silk Habit Braies and Woollen Hosen (optional) or Silk Stockings Shoes/Ankle or calf Boots Mitre or purple Calotte Bishop s Crozier, Ornate religious jewellery, Bishop s ring, Brass or Silver Pectoral Cross 61

62 Tier 8 - Senior Abbess Although similar in role to that of an Abbess, instead of running one specific Abbey or Convent a Senior Abbess was afforded more respect and would have typically been responsible for the administration of multiple monasteries. Senior Abbess were afforded great respect, with documented sources of Abbess being granted position within the King s council Snr Abbess Body Legs Head Accoutrements Black Linen or Woollen Monastic Habit, Linen underdress Silk Stockings Shoes / Sandals Bleached Silk Coif with Black Silk or Linen Veil Linen Cincture, Brass or Silver Pectoral Cross Rosary Tier 8 Patron Noblewoman Sometimes a noble woman of great standing would either retire to a convent if too old to remarry, or for women that were extremely pious would become patrons of the Church, funding Monasteries and Convents within their own lands. Patron Noblewoman Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress/Court Dress and underdress Mantled Cloak (optional), Scapular (optional) (See Monastic Unisex) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple, Pins/ Barbette, Veil (optional) Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch, Keys, Brass or Silver Pectoral Cross (Optional) 62

63 Tier 9 Archbishop/Senior Bishop Archbishops answered only to the Pope in Ecclesiastical matters and generally had the ear of the King and his Barons. They were the absolute authority over the English Church. The two Archbishops controlled a large swathe of land, called an Archbishopric or Archdiocese. As there is only capacity in some countries for one or two Archbishops, any additional members holding this rank are termed Senior Bishops. Bishop Body Legs Head Accoutrements Silk Alb, Amice, Silk Cincture, Stole, Dalmatic, Chasuble, Mozetta (optional if more than 1 Bishop is in attendance at any one event) Or Bliaut, Court undertunic Or Black silk habit Braies and Silk stockings matching the Dalmatic, Episcopal Slippers Mitre or purple Calotte Archbishop s Crozier, Ornate religious jewellery, Bishop s ring, Silver or Gold Pectoral Cross, Pallium Tier 9 - Patron Countess Sometimes a noble woman of great standing would either retire to a convent if too old to remarry, or for women that were extremely pious would become patrons of the Church, funding Monasteries and Convents within their own lands. In Normannis this term is reserved for women of the Oratores who rise to National rank. Patron Countess Body Legs Head Accoutrements Dress/Court Dress and underdress Mantled Cloak (optional), Scapular (optional) (see Monastic Unisex) Stockings (optional) Shoes Wimple, Pins/ Barbette, Veil (optional) Rosary Pouch Belt/Cinch, Keys, Brass or Silver Pectoral Cross (Optional) 63

64 Clerical and Monastic Attire (Definitions) A Note on Clerical and Monastic Clothing Not all clothing listed in the tables for members of the Oratores is reproduced below- only solely Monastic or Clerical clothing, or items that vary distinctly from their secular counterpart (crosses, for instance). If the item you have found listed is not in this section, please check the Secular section before assuming that it is missing. Some items (despite being primarily Monastic or Clerical) may be used by either group. Such items are marked with a purple C for Clerical or an orange M for Monastic. Monastic Body Linen Shift (M T1-8) Knees A B C D This garment functioned as a bottom layer for both monastic males and females, worn under the habit to avoid irritation. It also symbolised chastity and purity of the wearer. It comprised an ankle length garment made out of natural linen, with close sleeves that should be cut to the back of the hand level with the base of the thumb. These should be pushed back to the wrist under normal circumstances, leaving a wrinkled, pleated look at the wrist. These garments do not vary between male or female members, or across the rank structure. 64

65 Monastic Habit (C T7-9 M T2-8) An unadorned garment with a pair of broad gores to allow free leg movement. Nun s habits would feature slightly wider gores- but otherwise the garments did not vary between monks and nuns. Habits are made of natural wool and hangs to the ankles (D or below, see diagram, previous page). They had wrists cut to the base of the thumb on the back of the hand that hung loose- these should be able to easily accommodate the other hand being tucked in them (as was done at mass). When working these should be folded back, exposing the shift beneath. Depending on the order that the monk was from, the colour would vary. Habits must either feature an integrated hood or be worn with an accompanying cowl. Knees A B C Augustinians: Benedictines: Cistercians: Dark Grey Black or Very Dark Grey White (Natural) D Variations by Tier Tier 2-6 Should wear a habit made from wool in the colour of their order (see above) Tier 7-8 (Monastic) May wear a habit of linen in the colour of their order (see above) Tier 7-9 (Clergy) Archdeacons, Bishops and Archbishops may, when not performing Mass, wear a monastic Habit made of black silk. This should be accompanied by a Cowl (see below) of the same material. 65

66 Scapular (M T1-3 C Female T8-9) This item is a long rectangular tabard made from linen and died the same colour as the monk s Habit. It has a circular hole in the middle to place over the persons head and drape over the front and back of the wearer. It was used to protect the Habit from dirt whilst the Monk or Nun was performing manual labour and should always be 4 inches shorter than the habit that it covers. Cincture (M-T2-9) This vestment was worn by all members of the clergy, but when worn by monastic orders these would be a simple rope to denote their aesthetic lifestyle. 66

67 Head Cowl (C 7-9 M T5-7) The cowl was a large accentuated woollen hood that expanded into a circle around the top of the wearers shoulders and would come down to the mid-top part of the arm. It was always made from the same material as the habit it was worn with. (See Habit above) Coif and Veil (M Female T2-9) The coif and veil was a holy vestment of nuns of any order and was worn to emphasise the purity of the wearer and show their devotion to God. The coif and veil consists two pieces: the coif was similar in construction to a hood made in linen, albeit as tight as possible with a small opening so that it covers the head, neck and cheeks. The oval veil some 3 by 2 is attached by wimple pins over the coif and extends down to the shoulders. A Nun s veil would change colour from natural linen to black once they were ready for acceptance into the order. It symbolised that a novice had become a Nun and a full member of the convent. Variation by Tier Tier 3-6 must wear a coif of bleached linen and a veil of black linen Tier 7-8 may wear a coif of white silk and a veil of black linen Tier 9 may wear a coif of silk and a veil of black silk. 67

68 Shoes Sandals (M T1-8) In emulation of their classical forebears, Monastic orders often wore sandals in place of shoes- especially when moving about the abbey or priory. These followed roughly the same design as the Roman Caligae from centuries before- a thick leather sole with leather straps that passed over the arch of the foot and laced in place. These items should only be made in brown leather. Monastic Accoutrements Pilgrims Satchel (Universal) Pilgrims and Friars would often carry these small bags across their shoulders when travelling. The satchel should be constructed from natural or dyed linen or wool in a trapezium shape, wider at the bottom than at the opening. It should feature a flap over the opening which fastens with a simple toggle on the front of the bag. The shoulder strap should be a single unbroken length of linen long enough so that the satchel rests just below the waist. The satchel should feature no embroidered decoration, though some depictions feature small tassels at the bottom corners. The satchel should not be excessively large, only big enough for a small loaf of bread and perhaps a wedge of cheese, as they served primarily as a method of transporting food on the march. 68

69 Monastic Cross (Universal) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Members of the Monastic Orders frequently wore a cross to denote their devotion to God. These were usually less elaborate than their secular counterparts, as they were designed to fit with the monastic ideals of piety and simplicity. Variation by Tier Tier 2 must wear a simple cross of wood or bone (A,B,C). Tier 3-4 should wear a simple cross in pewter (C). Tier 7-8 should wear a cross from the secular cross regulations (D, E, and F in that section). Tier 9 should wear a pectoral cross around six inches in length and made of a precious metal set with gemstones (D). 69

70 Clerical Vestments Body Alb (C-T2-9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The Alb is a long white tunic reaching to the ankles (D on diagram) and with long, close fitting sleeves that should reach the back of the hand level with the thumb. Albs may be made from white linen, wool, or for high ranking clergy silk. This garment was worn by all ranks of the clergy ranging from very light natural linen for the lower ranks to bleached linen for priests and vicars. The Alb was held in at the waist by either an ordinary leather belt or a specific rope tie called a Cincture. In winter normal clothes would be worn under the Alb to keep warm. Variations by Tier Tier 2-4 should have albs made from natural, undyed linen with no embroidery. Tier 5 may have albs made from bleached linen, featuring simple embroidery at the sleeves. Tier 6-7 may have albs made from bleached linen, featuring embroidery at the sleeves and neck. Tier 8-9 may have albs made from natural silk, featuring detailed embroidery at the sleeves and neck, made from gold thread and other expensive colours. Knees A B C D 70

71 Dalmatic (C-T6-9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a This garment was a wool, linen or silk tunic reaching below the knee (B on diagram, right), with baggy, elbow length sleeves and side-split to the waist to allow free movement. This garment should be embroidered with delicate intricate designs and patterns along the hems. The Dalmatic should be of similar or contrasting colour to the Chasuble in one of the principal clerical colours: light blue, green, red, purple or white. Variations by Tier Tier 6-7 should have dalmatics made from wool or linen, with embroidery around the skirt and sleeves These garments should be either light blue, green or white. Tier 8 may have dalmatics made from either wool, linen or silk, with extensive embroidery including applied metal work around the sleeves, neckline and skirt. May be any colour, but red and white are encouraged. Tier 9 should have dalmatics made from silk, with heavy embroidery including gold work and may include precious and semi-precious stones. May be any colour, but purple, red and white are encouraged. 71

72 Stole (C-T5-9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a Worn only by ordained clergy, the stole is a long strip of decorated silk or linen worn around the neck and hanging down the front, reaching to the shin. The stole should be three or four inches wide and about eight feet long, with a fringe two or three inches long at each end. These ends may trumpet slightly, flaring at the bottom extent. The stole should be heavily embroidered and can feature gold thread and repeated ecclesiastical motifs. Variations by Tier Tier 5-6 should wear a stole made of linen. Tier 7-9 may wear a stole of linen of silk, preferably utilising gold work throughout. Chasuble (C-T8-9) The chasuble is a conical mantle of wool or silk made from a circle stitched along the straight edge, with a hole for the head to go through. The seams were reinforced with decorated strips of material called 'orphreys', which were arranged to hang vertically front and back. The orphreys should feature heavily ornate embroidery of the finest quality. The quarter should have a radius of four to five feet. Common colours were pale green, deep red, pale blue, purple and White. Mozetta (C-T8-9) This vestment was worn by the Bishop or Archbishop when not performing any religious ceremonies or when visiting a region outside their jurisdictional diocese. Mantle-like cloak, made of red, purple or black silk or linen. The garment is open down the front of the chest and fastened with an ornate brooch- all Mozettas should include a large hood. 72

73 Pallium (C-T9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a The Pallium was worn exclusively by Archbishops as a badge of office to signify his control over his Archdiocese. The garment is made from a 4-5 wide strip white lamb s wool sewn into a circular mantle with two strips that hang from the centre of the front and back. It should feature 6 black woollen crosses or crucifixes down the vertical strips 3 on each side, and terminate in shield-shaped black woollen tips. Amice (C-T7-9) The amice was predominantly worn at mass by ordained priests- in Normannis it is reserved for the use of Archdeacons, Bishops and Archbishops. The Amice consists of a highly decorative embroidered collar that ties around the neck. Attached to the collar is an embroidered linen square that covers the shoulders and back like a short cape. Variations by Tier Tier 7 should wear the amice under the alb and as a hood. Tier 8-9 should wear the amice over the alb but under the dalmatic and chasuble so that the heavily embroidered portion is exposed as a decorative collar. 73

74 Cincture (C-T2-9) Historia Normannis Clothing Regulations 1.2a This vestment was worn by all members of the clergy, essentially a tie or belt used to keep the stole in place with the Alb below it. The higher someone s standing in the Church the better quality material that would be used. Clerical Cinctures were either made from simple rope, linen or if you were affluent, silk rope. Variations by Tier Tier 2-3 should have cinctures made from simple rope. Tier 4-6 should wear cinctures made from white or natural linen. Tier 7-9 may wear cinctures made from silk. Legs Church Stockings (C T8-9) Church Stockings are similar to their secular counterparts, except they were made from silk and worn by the highest members of the clergy. Variation By Tier Tier 8 should have stockings made of natural silk. Tier 9 should have stockings made of silk, coloured to match the dalmatic. 74

75 Head Bishop s Mitre (C-T8-9) The bishop's mitre in Normannis' period of interest is similar in design to that of the modern garment- a peaked front and back panel enclosing a small inner cap- although the 12 th century mitre was significantly shorter in design. The mitre should feature heavy decoration (especially around the brow and the central stripe depicted on the diagram, right) and can be embellished with precious or semi-precious jewels. The design has two long tails, targes, that hang at the back of the mitre. Calotte (C-T3-9) A Calotte is a small, hemispherical, form-fitting ecclesiastical skullcap worn by ordained clergy. It covered the crown of the head or the tonsure and was a daily worn head covering when not at mass. They must all be made from fine quality linen. Variation by Tier Tier 3-7 should wear a linen cap dyed black. Tier 8-9 should wear a linen cap dyed purple. 75

76 Clerical Accoutrements Bishop s Crozier (C-T8-9) Whilst not an item of clothing, this is still a crucial item of a Bishop's attire. It should be a long staff, made from decent quality wood and can feature religious carvings along the shaft. It should stand slightly taller than the owner, and may terminate in a shepherd's crook design (Crozier), or be formed into a cross (Processional Cross). Either head may be formed from a precious or semiprecious metal, and should be as ornate as possible. Clerical Jewellery (C-T5-9) Most ranks within the secular Church had some form of religious jewellery on their person to represent the extant wealth and power of the Church. The value of jewellery differed greatly by rank. Variations by Tier Tier 5-6 Simple Jewellery: These items must match extant 10 th -12 th century cruciform jewellery, suspended on a leather thong. A rosary may also be carried- featuring either clay or wooden beads and a simple wooden cross. No pectoral cross can be worn. Tier 7-9 Ornate Jewellery: These items must match extant 10 th -12 th century cruciform jewellery, suspended on a leather thong or metal chain of the same metal used in the construction of the crucifix. For Bishops and above, a Pectoral Cross measuring around 6-8 in length should be worn made from brass, gold or silver. A rosary may also be carried- featuring either wooden or semi-precious stone beads or a simple wooden or semiprecious metal cross. 76

77 Tier 8-9 Bishop s Ring: The ring that a Bishop was given when promoted to such a rank was a ceremony in itself. Worn on the fourth finger of the right hand it was a symbol of the Bishop s marriage to God. The ring would be as large and ornate as possible for the period, usually the size of a large modern sovereign ring and would feature a large precious stone as the centrepiece. This can feature an engraved seal of the Bishop within it, as was customary for the Bishop to use this when sealing important documents. Always check with Head of Ecclesiastical before acquiring this item for final approval. 77