PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS. Ingredients. beyond

Transcription

1 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS Ingredients beyond

2 Gattefossé Gattefossé develops, manufactures and sells specialty ingredients for the personal care and pharmaceutical industries and offers a strong expertise in formulation for both of these activities. Innovation, ethics, quality and stability are the company key-drivers since the beginning. Gattefossé markets its products in more than 60 countries through 12 affiliated companies and a network of agents and distributors which operate technical and marketing support. Gattefossé was founded in Lyon, France in 1880 by Mr. Louis Gattefossé to whom building strong relationship with customers was a priority. The company still is a family-run and independent business, and now employs more than 250 people worldwide. Key know-how and technologies We are expert in two complementary fields: Oleochemistry and Biological extraction. This know-how enables us to meet the latest market trends in both natural performing actives and functional excipients, recognized for their sensorial benefits. We master formulation and sensorial analysis and we have a strong knowledge of our customers business, as we are able to provide them with customized products and formulations. An extensive range of finished product prototypes illustrates the real benefits of our ingredients. A full package of technical data is available for each ingredient, including regulatory status, tolerance tests and environmental certificates. Innovation Our commitment to innovation is based on our willingness to constantly move forward. 6% of our yearly turnover is dedicated to Research & Development. As recent examples, we have set up new application laboratories in our headquarters, including a state-of-theart cellular culture research activity. We have already more than 20 patent families registered and are involved in numerous collaborations with the international scientific community. Our priority: customer satisfaction 2 Our quality policy is oriented towards customer satisfaction as we believe in long-term partnerships. This is why we take great care in product manufacturing. We also ensure a global technical support through our established distribution network.

3 Contents 5 17 ACTIVES SELECTION BY BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITIES 6 7 CYTOBIOL 8 MINERAL MATTERS 9 FRESH CELLS 10 ORIGINAL EXTRACTS 11 SECRETS 12 THE UNFORGETTABLE 13 VEGETOL 14 TEXTURES SENSORIAL EMULSIFIERS 18 EMULSIFIERS & CO-EMULSIFIERS 20 MICROEMULSION TECHNOLOGY 21 TEXTURIZING SPECIALTIES 21 SOLUBILIZERS & DISPERSERS 22 SENSORIAL EMOLLIENTS 22 25APPLICATIONS HAIR CARE 26 MAKE-UP 27 SUN CARE 28 MEN S CARE 29 SKIN CARE FOR BABIES & KIDS 30 3

4 4 Actives

5 ACTIVES In cosmetics, the characteristics of a final product are determined by the actives incorporated to the formula. They ensure the effectiveness of the product whether for skin care, make up, hair care or sun care. These ingredients can be of natural or synthetic origin and their main scopes are anti-aging, moisturization, nutrition, revitalization, soothing, acne treatment and body slimming. However, the definition of an active should not be restricted to its function; it also refers to a sourcing process, a marketing story and intense laboratory development. Quality sourcing At Gattefossé, we strongly believe in the potential of nature. All our actives come from either exotic or wellknown plants that are selected according to exhaustive research on their composition. Our experts travel the world and build a sustainable network of partners in order to implement a sourcing procedure that fits the high level of specifications and quality commitments of the company. High-tech extraction technologies Our scientists use their expertise in biological extraction to select and develop new methods and processes that allow them to stabilize and extract the active molecules. At each development stage, our environment is a major concern. The discovery of inventive extraction processes using green solvents is an important part of today s research program. Performance & substantiation As proven efficacy is essential, our cellular culture laboratory allows us to be at the forefront of technology in testing. These facilities enable to better understand the mechanism of action of our products. Clinical evaluations are designed and conducted in collaboration with partner laboratories. The performance of our active ingredients is fully demonstrated and substantiated. 5

6 Our range of natural actives classified according to their biological activity PRODUCT NAME Page ANTI-OXIDANT PROTECTION ENERGIZING IMMEDIATE EFFICACY LIGHTENING MOISTURIZING NOURISHING PLUMPING REPAIRING SEBUM AND ACNE CONTROL SKIN PERFECTION ACTICIRE 13 CYTOBIOL BURDOCK² 8 CYTOBIOL IRIS A² 8 TIGHTENING SOOTHING AND FIRMING CYTOBIOL LUMIN-EYE 8 DERMOTENSEUR ² 13 EQUIVEDA² 13 FRESH CELLS 10 CARROT KIWI PUMPKIN MANGO PUMPKIN STRAWBERRY ALL MANGO PUMPKIN A 7 AGE DEFENSE² 7 DERMA- 7 SENSITIVE EXPRESSION 7 IN-TENSE 7 RADIANCE 7 RC/RP/RC BIO 7 SKIN-REPAIR BIO 7 SPOT-LIGHT 7 HEMA TÎTE 9 LACTOFIL MOIST 13 LYCO SOL 13 MALA KÎTE 9 MALT SECRETS 12 NEOSKIN G 13 OLI VÎNE 9 ORIGINAL EXTRACTS 11 GINGER LOTUS RICE APPLE CHERRY BIO KIWI LEMON BIO KIWI ALL KIWI LEMON BIO PANCOGENE MARIN² 13 PHYLDERM VEGETAL C² 13 RHODO LÎTE ² 9 VEDACALM B 13 V-TONIC 13 ZIN CÎTE 9 LOTUS UNDER-EYE WRINKLE REDUCTION 6

7 NAME A AGE DEFENSE² DERMA-SENSITIVE EXPRESSION IN-TENSE RADIANCE RC/RP/RC BIO SKIN-REPAIR BIO SPOT-LIGHT INCI NATURAL STATUS TESTS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Certified In vitro Ex vivo In vivo Ranunculus Ficaria Extract Water (and) Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract Octyldodecyl Myristate (and) Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract Alcohol (and) Water (and) Acmella Oleracea Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract Propanediol (and) Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract Water (and) Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract Alcohol (and) Water (and) Onopordum Acanthium Flower/Leaf/ Stem Extract Butylene Glycol (and) Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water (and) Alcohol (and) Sophora Flavescens Root Extract NPA ORGANIC (1) Claims Properties Use level Anti-oxidant Anti-redness Immediately decreases local inflammation Protects against oxidative stress Boosts cellular metabolism Stimulates skin protein synthesis Anti-aging Reduces clinical signs of inflammation Improves sensitive and hyperreactive skin comfort Myorelaxing activity Reduces expression lines instantly Safe and reversible effect Stimulates cellular dynamism Reinforces the dermis architecture Immediate and effective smoothing action Boosts skin microcirculation Fights against dullness Improves the fineness of skin texture Visible efficacy Smoothes skin microrelief Increases skin moisturization (2) Boosts cell metabolism Stimulates epidermal and ORGANIC dermal regeneration (3) NPA Improves the skin barrier function Reduces the visibility, number and appearance of age spots Lightens skin tone Safe and natural - Derived from lesser celandine, with a guaranteed content in purified saponins - Reduces permanent red blotches by an effect on skin color and microcirculation - Recommended for irritated or sensitive skin - Extracted from walnuts from the French Alps, rich in phytic acid, polyphenols and nutrients - Protects the anti-oxidant pool of the cells against extrinsic aging - Helps the skin to fight against chronological aging - Adapted to anti-aging, anti-stress and anti-pollution lines - Extract of caper buds, rich in cappaprenols, (gemmotherapy) - Reduces irritation and hypersensitivity by inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory epidermal cytokines - Recommended for sensitive or reactive skin - Extract of para cress plant from Madagascar, with a guaranteed content of spilanthol - Targets precisely and rapidly the mechanism responsible for the formation of expression lines with visible results on crow s feet area in just one day - Designed for facial anti-aging and anti-wrinkle care - Extract of flowers of acmella, harvested by hand in South Africa, rich in alkylamides - Enhances skin density and firmness and then reduces skin roughness - Dedicated to global anti-age, anti-wrinkle, facial contouring products and firming body care - Extracted from mature fruits of Wu-Zhu-Yu, a plant from the Jiangxi province of Southeast China and well-known in the Traditional Chinese Medicine - Acts on skin microcirculation and improves skin tone, luminosity and pore appearance - Dedicated to skin perfectors and illuminating products, can also be used in products fighting against cellulite or hair loss - Extract of French beech tree buds (gemmotherapy) - Smoothes cutaneous microrelief and improves moisturization by improving cellular oxygen consumption and keratinocyte protein synthesis - Designed for anti-aging and anti-wrinkle treatments - Extracted from cotton thistle, sourced in France, containing sugars, flavonoids and sesquiterpenic lactones - Promotes cutaneous reparation by acting on keratinocyte differentiation - Dedicated to anti-aging lines, repairing treatments, can also be used in body products targeting stretch marks - Association of Asian Sophora flavescens and handpicked Italian kiwi fruit - Acts on both epidermal and dermal causes of age spots - Dedicated to age spot targeted treatments and skin brightening products Phenoxyethanol 0.4% RC: Phenonip 0.5% RP: Phenoxyethanol 2% RC BIO: Benzoic acid 0.2% Benzyl alcohol 3% % 0.5-6% 2% 2-5% 2% 1-3% 2-5% 0.5-3% 3% (1) Ingredient certified by GREENLIFE according to the Natural and Organic Cosmetics Standards - 25% of organic certified ingredients on the total of ingredients % of natural ingredients on the total of ingredients (2) Ingredient certified 17.34% organic by GREENLIFE according to standard - Contains 17.34% of physically processed agro-ingredients - 100% of physically processed agro-ingredients are organic (3) Ingredient certified by GREENLIFE according to the Natural and Organic Cosmetics Standards - 100% of natural ingredients on the total of ingredients % of organic certified ingredients on the total of ingredients 7

8 CYTOBIOL NAME INCI In vitro TESTS In vivo CHARACTERISTICS Claims Properties Use level CYTOBIOL BURDOCK² Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Arctium Majus Root Extract (and) Zinc Sulfate (and) Biotin Reduces sebum production - Synergistic association of burdock root extract (anti-seborrheic), biotin (seboregulating) and zinc salt (anti-bacterial) - Targeted for oily but non-acneic skin - Perfect for day creams or make-up bases 5% CYTOBIOL IRIS A² Propanediol (and) Water (and) Alcohol (and) Iris Florentina Root Extract (and) Zinc Sulfate (and) Retinyl Palmitate Bacteriostatic activity Anti-imperfections Improves skin texture Reduces skin shine - Synergistic association of iris extract (astringent and anti-inflammatory), vitamin A (sebo-regulating and skin regeneration) and zinc salt (anti-bacterial) - Improves the overall appearance of the complexion by decreasing the shine of the skin and the number of open pores - Each active targets one of the causes of acne - Dedicated to oily and combination skin with imperfections (prevention and healing) 3-5% CYTOBIOL LUMIN-EYE Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Niacinamide (and) Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract (and) Silanetriol and Potassium Citrate Targets under-eye shadows and puffiness Strengthens capillaries Stimulates skin microcirculation Limits premature aging of the eye contour - Synergistic association of ash tree bark (veino-protective), vitamin B3 (veinotonic) and organic silicon (capillary structure) - Targets all causes leading to the formation of under-eye bags and dark shadows - 2 in 1 active: double in vivo substantiation against dark circles and under eye bags - Adapted for both men and women of all ages 5% 8

9 MINERAL MATTERS NAME INCI In vitro TESTS Ex vivo In vivo CHARACTERISTICS Claims Properties Use level HEMA TÎTE Hematite Extract Stimulates collagen synthesis Restores the skin mechanical properties Visibly fills out wrinkles - Extracted from hematite stone from Brazil, rich in iron - Reinforces the skin tissue - Acts on prolylhydroxylase, key enzyme for the maturation of collagen - Retinol-like action on collagen synthesis and epidermis thickness - Dedicated to plumping anti-aging products Phenoxyethanol 0.4% Sorbic acid 0.1% 0.5-2% MALA KÎTE Water (and) Malachite Extract Anti-oxidant Detoxifying Stable and natural colorant - Extracted from malachite stone from Africa, rich in copper - Strong protective action due to its anti-radical activity against superoxide anion - Detoxifying action by its ability to stimulate glutathione reductase - Dedicated to skin and hair protection 1-5% OLI VÎNE Water (and) Olivine Extract Boosts cell metabolism Reduces the effects of stress Acts on both keratinocytes and fibroblasts - Extracted from olivine stone from North America and South Africa, rich in magnesium - Acts both on cellular respiration and on the synthesis of ATP, the main energy source of human cells - Enables the skin to adapt and resist environmental aggressions and protects mitochondria - Recommended for the treatment of dull, tired or stressed skin Phenoxyethanol 1% 0.5-3% RHODO LÎTE ² Rhodochrosite Extract Protects fibroblasts against UVA Stimulates the natural cellular defense functions Deep skin protection - Extracted from rhodochrosite stone from South America, rich in manganese - Stimulates the natural defense mechanisms of fibroblasts to prevent UVA induced oxidative stress - Preserves cells that release collagen and elastin, molecules responsible for good skin mechanical properties - Dedicated for anti-aging products, anti-stress and anti-fatigue lines Phenoxyethanol 0.4% Sorbic acid 0.1% 1-5% ZIN CÎTE Smithsonite Extract Protects keratinocytes against UVB Effective protection of cell DNA Long term protection of the skin Anti-glycation efficacy - Extracted from smithsonite stone from Mexico, rich in zinc - Genoprotective effect due to the stimulation of metallothioneins (key stress proteins involved in the DNA natural defense system) - Improves cellular protection against the harmful effects of UVB - Can detoxify heavy metals from pollution - Inhibits glycation reaction for a firming activity - Recommended for anti-aging and anti-pollution lines 1-5% 9

10 FRESH CELLS FRESH CELLS INCI TESTS In vitro CHARACTERISTICS Claims Properties Use level CARROT PFE Water (and) Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract Anti-oxidant activity due to the presence of carotene - Isolated cells of fresh carrot root, well-known for its richness in ß-carotene which is transformed in the organism into vitamin A - Square cells of small size (20 μm) - Rich in mineral salts such as potassium and magnesium - Can be used for sun care and protecting products Phenoxyethanol 1% Sorbic acid 0.1% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3% 5% KIWI PFE Water (and) Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract High anti-oxidant potential Anti-radical effect against hydroxyl radical - Isolated cells of fresh kiwi, the most precious of fruits for its nutritive value, rich in antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E, as well as polyphenols - Elongated cells of medium size (80 μm) - Ideal for anti-aging and anti-pollution lines Phenoxyethanol 0.4% Sorbic acid 0.1% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3% 5% MANGO PFE Water (and) Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract Anti-hyaluronidase and antityrosinase activities - Isolated cells of fresh mango, rich in carotenoids - Round cells of medium size (80 μm) - Contain many mineral salts such as iron, potassium and magnesium - Dedicated to repairing and anti-aging products and treatments targeting age-spots Phenoxyethanol 0.4% Sorbic acid 0.1% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3% 5% PUMPKIN PFE Water (and) Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Fruit Extract Anti-oxidant effect especially against superoxide anion - Isolated cells of pumpkin, one of the vegetables with the highest anti-oxidant power - Round cells of medium size (80 μm) - Rich in mineral salts such as magnesium and zinc - Ideal for calming, repairing and after-sun care treatments Phenoxyethanol 1% Sorbic acid 0.1% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3% 5% STRAWBERRY PFE Water (and) Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract Anti-hyaluronidase activity - Isolated cells of strawberry, the ultimate refreshing fruit - Round and large cells (300 μm) - Interesting mineral density, in particular magnesium, calcium and iron - Recommended for purifying treatments of young skin Phenoxyethanol 0.4% Sorbic acid 0.1% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3% 5% 10

11 ORIGINAL EXTRACTS ORIGINAL EXTRACT APPLE INCI Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Water NATURAL STATUS TESTS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Certified In vitro NPA Energizing properties Anti-aging Boosts cell proliferation Claims Properties - Stimulates the growth of human keratinocytes Use level Up to 100% BAMBOO Phyllostachys Edulis Shoot Water Nourishing properties - Contains volatile components, trace elements and mineral salts - Able to influence enzymatic processes Up to 100% CHERRY BIO Prunus Cerasus (Bitter Cherry) Fruit Water ORGANIC (1) Anti-aging (2) - 100% organic - Provides the skin with trace elements - Revitalizes the skin thanks to the stimulation of TGF-ß Up to 100% CRANBERRY BIO GINGER GRAPE GRAPE BIO Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Water Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Water Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Water ORGANIC (1) (2) NPA ORGANIC (1) (2) Stimulating and nourishing properties Stimulates the anti-radical power of natural antioxidants Boosts efficacy of vitamin C, naturally present in the skin Nourishing properties Nourishing properties - 100% organic - Contains a well-balanced amount of trace elements - Anti-radical activity booster - A grade 100% organic - Provides the skin with essential nutrients - Suitable for all kinds of personal care application Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% GRAPEFRUIT Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Water NPA Nourishing properties - Provides the skin with volatile components, trace elements and mineral salts Up to 100% KIWI Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water NPA Enhances skin radiance Contributes to a better skin hydration - Lowers tyrosinase and hyaluronidase activities Up to 100% LEMON BIO Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Water ORGANIC (1) Targets uneven skin complexion and age spots (2) - 100% organic - Decreases tyrosinase activity with a clear dose effect - Can be used in any kind of cosmetic formulation targeting age spots, skin lightening or skin tone Up to 100% LOTUS Nelumbo Nucifera Root Water Soothing Boosts efficacy of vitamin C, naturally present in the skin - Reduces the liberation of CGRP, a pro-inflammatory mediator - Improves the cell viability of neurons - Improves the anti-oxidant power of Vitamin C Up to 100% ORANGE ORANGE BIO RICE Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Water Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Water Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water NPA ORGANIC (1) (2) Nourishing properties Nourishing properties Boosts natural antioxidant properties at skin level Stimulates the efficacy of vitamin C, naturally present in the skin - A grade 100% organic - Provides the skin with volatile components, trace elements and mineral salts that are vital in catalyzing enzymatic activity, therefore participating in mechanisms of synthesis, and influencing stimulation of metabolism - Anti-oxidant activity booster Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% (1) Ingredient certified by GREENLIFE according to the Natural and Organic Cosmetics Standards - 100% of natural ingredients on the total of ingredients - 100% of organic certified ingredients on the total of ingredients (2) Ingredient certified 100% organic by GREENLIFE according to standard - Contains 100% of physically processed agro-ingredients - 100% of physically processed agro-ingredients are organic 11

12 SECRETS NAME INCI NATURAL STATUS TESTS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Certified In vitro Claims Properties Use level ACEROLA SECRETS Maltodextrin (and) Malpighia Glabra (Acerola) Fruit Extract NPA Anti- radical Pro-moisturization Protection against skin elasticity loss - Derived from Acerola, also known as Barbados cherry, exotic fruit particularly rich in vitamin C - Contains malic acid, a fruit acid that improves the general condition of the skin (suppleness, moisturizing, smoothing and reinforcing elasticity) - Recommended for mature skin treatments, vitamin-enriched products and repairing lines 0.5-2% APPLE SECRETS Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract NPA Cell protecting Anti- radical effects - Blend juices of different apple varieties - Contains fruit acids (primarily malic acid) with exfoliating and moisturizing benefits - Rich in polyphenols, especially hydroxycinnammic acids and tannins - To be used for anti-pollution, anti-aging and firming lines 1-10% LEMON SECRETS Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract NPA Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant Improves microcirculation Antiseptic effect and astringency - Lemon juice - Contains citric acid that offers antiseptic and astringent properties - Rich in citroflavonoids (a type of polyphenol) - Smooths hair cuticle and provides resistance and shine - Recommended for cleansing and purifying lines, sore legs, shampoos and hair masks 1-10% MALT SECRETS Propanediol (and) Water (and) Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract NPA Protects the skin against radical damage Targets uneven skin complexion and age spots No cytotoxicity - Extract of malted barley from the brewing industry - Sustainable sourcing - Unique manufacturing process guarantees high content of OPC dimers - High antioxidant activity at very low concentration - Inhibits 100% of the melanin synthesis - Safe alternative to kojic acid - Can be used for skin care, make-up, sun care and hair care applications 0.1-1% ORANGE SECRETS Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract NPA Stable source of vitamin C - Cocktail of beneficial vitamins, especially vitamin C, and nutritive amino acids, fruit acids and protective citroflavonoids - To be used in vitamin-enriched care (skin, body, hair care) and oily skin care lines 1-10% PAPAYA SECRETS Maltodextrin (and) Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract NPA Smoothing, exfoliating and revitalizing Hair growth prevention - Sourced from papaya, recognized for its medicinal properties - Rich in stabilized papain (powder form), a keratolytic, anti-inflammatory and slimming protease - Recommended for slimming or exfoliating products, can be used in hair removing treatments and anti-dandruff shampoos 0.5-2% 12

13 THE UNFORGETTABLE ACTICIRE NAME BAMBOO EXFOLIATING EXTRACT DERMOTENSEUR ² EQUIVEDA 2 LACTOFIL MOIST LYCO SOL NEOSKIN G PANCOGENE MARIN² PHYLDERM VEGETAL C² VEDACALM B V-TONIC INCI Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 NATURAL STATUS Validated In vitro TESTS In vivo Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract Propanediol (and) Water (and) Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract (and) Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract Butylene Glycol (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Water (and) Withania Somnifera Root Extract Lactose (and) Whey Protein Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil (and) Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract Water (and) Glycerin (and) Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract Soluble Collagen Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (and) Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil (and) Boswellia Serrata Oil Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil (and) Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil (and) Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil (and) Lavandula Hybrida Oil (and) Cistus Ladaniferus Oil 100% natural Moisturizing CHARACTERISTICS Claims Properties Exfoliates the skin Improves skin complexion Tightens and firms the skin Moisturizing Helps the skin to fight against stress and tiredness Anti- radical activity Nourishing Moisturizing Inhibits the harmful effects of UV exposure Improves skin hydration and reduces wrinkle appearance Increases cellular regeneration Promotes epidermal repair Moisturizing Increases skin tonicity and elasticity Provides essential nutrients Boosts keratinocyte and fibroblast metabolism Helps to restore the hydrolipidic protective film on the skin Soothing and moisturizing Brings relief to tired and heavy legs Immediate and long term efficacy - Wax butter based on functionalized jojoba, sunflower seed and mimosa - Forms a smooth and protective film that improves the surface aspect of the skin - Brings sensorial benefits in skin care, sun care or make-up treatments - Bamboo stems, a source of silica rich in mineral salts - Removes dead cells and impurities from the skin - Particle size: 315 µm - Synergistic association of fruits of kigelia, an African tree rich in peptides, and bark of the quillaja tree, from Latin America, rich in flavonoids - Immediate and long-lasting tightening action - To be used in anti-aging skin care and make-up - Ayurvedic blend of withania somnifera (Indian ginseng) and green coconut water - Strengthens the skin natural defense systems due to a high content in amino-acids and vitamins - Ideal for tonic and anti-stress products - Lactoserum from pasteurized cow milk that contains essential amino acids - Forms a hydrating film - To be used in nourishing products - Extracted from tomatoes, with a guaranteed level of lycopene, a powerful anti-oxidant - Protects the proteins of the extracellular matrix - Can be used in protective skin care, sun care or hair care - Extract of mimosa tenuiflora, known as the skin tree, rich in polyphenols - Recommended for damaged skin (sunburn, surgery) and anti-aging treatments - Native marine collagen exclusively from non-endangered warm water fish species with similar chemical and physical characteristics to bovine collagen - Forms a protective film on the skin that reduces water loss - Ideal for anti-aging products - Hydrolyzed proteins of GMO- soybean - Balanced fraction in amino acids and peptides (ranging from 1000 to Daltons) - To be used in nourishing and revitalizing skin care or hair care products - Ayurvedic complex of neem oil, boswelia seratta essential oil and sesame seed oil - Well adapted for sensitive and hyper-reactive skin - Cocktail of natural essential oils used in aromatherapy - Synergistic effect between the five essential oils - Significant improvement of all signs associated with heavy legs and poor circulation Phenoxyethanol 1% Sorbic acid 0.1% Phenoxyethanol 2% Phenoxyethanol 1% Sorbic acid 0.1% Use level 1-5% 1-5% 5-10% 5-10% 3-7% 5% 5% 2-5% 5-10% 5-10% 0.5-2% 13

14 VEGETOL NAME LATIN NAME Water and/or PG EXTRACTION MEDIA Water and BG Water and/or glycerin Vegetable and/ or mineral oil PROPERTIES Antiseptic Astringent Emollient Healing Soothing Tonic ALOE Aloe Ferox ME200 GR335 ARNICA Arnica Montana MCF1397 BEARBERRY Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi GR457 BIRCH TREE Betula Alba MCF787 BUTCHER S BROOM Ruscus Aculeatus GR089 CALENDULA Calendula Officinalis MCF774 WL1072 CARROT Daucus Carota Sativa GR255 COMMON NETTLE Urtica Dioica MCF801 CORNFLOWER Centaurea Cyanus MCF783 CUCUMBER Cucumis Sativus Cp GR049 GINKGO BILOBA Ginko Biloba LC416 GINSENG Panax Ginseng GR471 GRAPEFRUIT Citrus Grandis GR403 HENNA Lawsonia Inermis MCF1232 HORSE CHESTNUT Aesculus Hippocastanum MCF1972 HORSETAIL Equisetum Arvense MCF860 HYDROCOTYL Centella Asiatica GR040 IVY Hedera Helix MCF775 LAVENDER Lavendula Angustifolia MCF1484 LEMON Citrus Lemon GR020 LOTUS Nelumbium Speciosum ME169 MALLOW Malva Sylvestris MCF784 MARSHMALLOW Althea Officinalis MCF770 MCF793 MATRICARIA Chamomilla Recutica GR ME106 OAT Avena Sativa ME166 QUILLAI Quillaja Saponaria GR038 RED GRAPEVINE Vitis Vinifera MCF1159 ROSE Rosa Centifolia MCF789 SAGE Salvia Officinalis MCF776 SEAWEED Fucus Vesiculosus CB4136 WILD PANSY Viola Tricolor MCF790 WITCH HAZEL Hamamelis Virginiana MCF2032 YEAST Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Lp GR223 14

15 Gatuline A line of highly purified, natural-derived actives, obtained following in-depth research and extensive substantiation including in vivo testing under normal conditions of use Cytobiol A line of actives designed to combat functional skin disorders, based on the association of a plant extract and fundamental compounds such as trace elements, vitamins or amino acids Mineral Matters A unique line of active mineral complexes, each offering distinctive protective or antiage properties for skin care formulations Fresh Cells Intact isolated plant cells, obtained by a specific enzymatic process, that deliver to the skin all the elements initially present in the original fruit or vegetable Original Extracts Using targeted extraction processes, we offer the cosmetic industry a full range of 100% natural plant waters, including 5 references organically certified, that can partially or completely substitute the water in cosmetic formulations Secrets A range of actives concentrated in targeted molecules, offering their benefits to natural cosmetics The Unforgettable A selection of actives with different benefits to satisfy current cosmetic needs, such as immediate action, skin protection, moisturization, complexion enhancement or energy boosting Vegetol Emblematic line of plant extracts by Gattefossé 15

16 16 Textures

17 TEXTURES The texture is the heart of a cosmetic. Texture is responsible for creating different sensations and reactions, it is a charm card, a major player in seducing the consumer. The initial impression of the texture, for the cosmetic consumer, is what gives the impulsive desire to buy. The longer term appreciation in the home environment is what makes the consumer faithful to a cosmetic. The texture also plays a significant role in what we can call perception of efficacy. A sensorially pleasant product will contribute to the immediate impression of efficacy. It can also participate actively to the activity with socalled intelligent textures that possess in themselves a biological activity. Strong background For more than fifty years, our team of experts has developed a strong know-how in oleochemistry. Using the chemistry of esterification, they innovate and create unique lipidic ingredients with various functionalities and sensory profiles. Natural origin The vast majority of our portfolio is of 100% plant origin. We concentrate our efforts on the selection of original, secure and economically viable sources. Environment is a major concern, as illustrated with our commitment to RSPO, and the launch of the first texturizing agent certified sustainable in Moreover, 100% of our ingredients using palm oil and palm kernel oil derivatives are RSPO Book & Claim compliant. Formulation and sensory analysis The application laboratories of Gattefossé are located in France, in India and in China. Our team of formulators is in charge of the evaluation of the texture ingredients and the creation of a wide range of cosmetic formulations. As a texture is difficult to characterize with physical parameters, we have set up a sensorial panel for texture analysis. This panel of sensory experts works closely with our oleochemists to highlight the benefits of our ingredients, pure or in formulation. 17

18 SENSORIAL EMULSIFIERS NATURAL STATUS CHARACTERISTICS NAME INCI Validated Sensorial identity Properties Formulations Use level O/W W/O Sprays Lotions Texture Supple creams Creams Butters APIFIL CG PEG-8 Beeswax High melting sensation - Derived from beeswax - Excellent compatibility with all types of lipophilic ingredients and inorganic powders - In vivo substantiated moisturizing activity - To be used in combination with EMULCIRE 61 CG for improved heat resistance and modulate the viscosity 2-5% EMULFREE CBG Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol Cocoate (and) Ethylcellulose Light and fresh textures with quickbreak effect - Innovative surfactant- and PEG- system - Allows the formation of a bigel : an intimate blend between an oil and a gelled aqueous phase - Wide compatibility with all kinds of oils including nonpolar oils - Water-resistance properties (in vivo test) - Recommended for sensitive skin products 1-6% EMULFREE P Propylene Glycol Laurate (and) Ethylcellulose (and) Propylene Glycol Isostearate Light and fresh textures with quickbreak effect - Innovative oil-based surfactant- and PEG- system - Allows the formation of a bigel - Excellent compatibility with medium to high polarity oils, sun filters and perfumes - Water-resistance properties (in vivo test) - Recommended for sensitive skin products 1-6% EMULIUM 22 Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters Elegant paradox between rich and creamy appearance and evanescent feel - Based on substantive behenic chain - Wide compatibility with oils, ph and specific active ingredients (Zn derivatives, DHA ) - Fine and particularly homogeneous dispersions, ideal for foundations and tinted emulsions - Naturally boosts the SPF due to optimal dispersion 2-6% EMULIUM DELTA Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 Velvet touch Strong sensory added-value: softness and comfort guaranteed - Strong emulsifying and stabilizing properties - Solution for extreme formulations: tricky actives (such as straighteners, hydrogen peroxide creams, antiperspirants, DHA ) and wide ph ranges (3-13) - Flexible formulation process 2-6% EMULIUM KAPPA 2 EMULIUM MELLIFERA Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol NPA Brings similar sensorial benefits to silicone elastomers Very glossy, rich and luxury textures White and glossy textures Very low residual film Smooth and comfortable afterfeel - Anionic emulsifier - Natural, PEG- emulsifier - Based on a patented technology of hydrophilized vegetable waxes that can absorb up to 6 times their weight in water - Boosts moisturizing capacity, providing the skin with a unique, cushion-soft feel and long-lasting comfort - Non ionic, natural, PEG- emulsifier - Allows the formulation of a wide range of textures suitable for all skin types and climates - Creates natural emulsions with white and luxurious appearance - Shows significant moisturizing properties and visibly improves skin texture 2.5-6% 2-4% 18

19 How to select the right emulsifier? Apifil CG Emul Line Emulium 22 Emulium Delta Emulium Kappa² Emulium Mellifera Appearance Gloss Sensorial criteria First contact During application After absorption Pick-up Thickness Spreadability Melting sensation Softness Absorption Playtime Residual Film Dry finish + Soft finish Mat finish ++ + Esters Non polar oils +++ Emul CBG Vegetable oils Compatibilities/specificities Compatibility with ingredients Recommended associations Emulsification process Silicones ph Electrolytes + < 0.5% NaCl - ++ < 1.5% NaCl ++ < 1% NaCl < 0.5% MgSO 4 + < 0.5% NaCl Alcohol < 10% < 20% < 10% < 20% < 5% < 10% Mineral filters ++ Organic filters +++ Gelling agents High shear Acrylic polymers and/ or copolymers + xanthan gum -/+ < 5% ZnO ++ (except salts) Acrylic polymers and/ or copolymers + xanthan gum Acrylic polymers and/ or copolymers + xanthan gum All ++ < 2% NaCl + < 5% ZnO, TiO (liposoluble filters) Bentonite or microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum + xanthan gum Poorly compatible with acrylic polymers and copolymers ++ (Use of co-emulsifier recommended) All (max. 0.2% of acrylate polymers and copolymers) (With high oil phase) Low shear X X X X 19

20 EMULSIFIERS & CO-EMULSIFIERS NATURAL STATUS CHARACTERISTICS NAME INCI Validated Properties Formulations Use level O/W W/O Sprays Lotions Texture Supple creams Creams Butters EMULCIRE 61 CG Cetyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 - Co-emulsifier - Improves heat stability - Gives excellent results when used in combination with APIFIL CG 1-4% GELOT 64 CG HYDROLACTOL 70 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate (and) Propylene Glycol Stearate (and) Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Propylene Glycol Isostearate (and) Oleth-25 (and) Ceteth-25 PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate NPA PLUROL STEARIQUE SEDEFOS 75 CG PELLETS Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and) Glycol Stearate (and) PEG-2 Stearate NPA - Strong stabilizing and emulsifying power - Wide ph compatibility and good compatibility with salts - Adapted to low-energy/one-pot manufacturing processes - Suited for mass-market formulations - Recommended for the formulation of inorganic powders (sunscreens, pigments), hydro-alcoholic products, sprayable deodorants, antiperspirants - Adapted to low-energy/one-pot manufacturing processes - Suited for mass-market formulations - PEG- emulsifier - To be used alone or in combination with ACTICIRE - Compatible with inorganic powders - Provides natural water-resistance - Allows the formulation of cold or hot-processed emulsions - Consistency agents recommended to improve stability - Protects the hydrolipidic film of dry/sensitive skin (perfect for baby lines) 2-6% 4-6% 4-6% - PEG- emulsifier - Creates emulsions with dry and powdery afterfeel - Recommended for green formulations, sensitive care and baby lines - Used alone or in contribution with ACTICIRE 4-6% - Anionic emulsifier - Fine and homogeneous dispersions - Creates creamy emulsions, very easy to spread - Recommended for sun care products 2-6% TEFOSE 1500 CG PEG-6 Stearate (and) PEG-32 Stearate - Adapted to low-energy/one-pot manufacturing processes - Suited for mass-market formulations 3-6% TEFOSE 2000 CG PEG-6 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 - Can be formulated with the Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) technology - Adapted to low energy/one-pot manufacturing processes - Suited for mass-market formulations 3-6% TEFOSE 2561 CG PEG-6 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Steareth-20 - Adapted to low energy/one-pot manufacturing processes - Suited for mass-market formulations 3-6% TEFOSE HC Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 - Dedicated to hair care products - Provides bright and glossy creams - Can be formulated over a wide range of ph - Recommended conditioners, hair relaxers, styling and coloring products 3-6% 20

21 MICROEMULSION TECHNOLOGY NAME INCI NATURAL STATUS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Properties Use level L.A.S. PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides - Primary surfactant for microemulsions 15-40% PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate NPA - Cosurfactant for microemulsions - Generally recommended for higher oil phase content - Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S % PLUROL ISOSTEARIQUE Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate - Cosurfactant for microemulsions - Generally recommended for higher oil phase content - Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S % PLUROL OLEIQUE CG Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate - Cosurfactant for microemulsions - Generally recommended for higher oil phase content - Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S % TEXTURIZING SPECIALTIES NAME INCI NATURAL STATUS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Properties Use level ACTICIRE Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3-100% vegetal active texture agent based on jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes - Multifunctional: creates active textures and enables make-up innovations - Improves sensorial properties and stability of O/W or W/O emulsions - Brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin (proven in vivo) - Particularly interesting for its capacity to introduce water to traditionally anhydrous formulations 1-5% COMPRITOL 888 CG Glyceryl Behenate NPA - Thickener for oils - Creates gelled forms with superior heat stability - Stabilizes W/O and O/W emulsions - Atomized version: a perfect compacting agent for make-up powders - No color change induced to the formula % LIPOCIRE A SG C10-C18 Triglycerides NPA - Based on 100% certified sustainable palm oil & palm kernel oil, RSPO segregated grade - Melts at skin temperature - Improves the feel on skin or lips - Recommended to be used in lipsticks, cosmetic pencils and emulsions - Improves spreadability and comfort - LIPOCIRE CM SG, a second grade with a different proportion of palm and palm kernel oils and a slightly higher melting point, can be of interest in sticks and pressed powders 1-20% 21

22 SOLUBILIZERS & DISPERSERS NAME INCI Properties CHARACTERISTICS Use level COCOATE BG Butylene Glycol Cocoate - Transparent pigment wetter - Solubilizer for organic sun filters and disperser for mineral sun filters - Provides a dry and soft touch - Boosts naturally the SPF of sunscreen formulations by enhancing sun filters performance - Ideal ester for make-up, make-up removers and sun care applications 1-15% TRANSCUTOL CG Ethoxydiglycol - Superior solubilizer and efficacy booster for cosmetic formulations - Recommended for the following applications: self-tanning products, antiperspirants, antimicrobial soaps, nail polish removers, fragrances, conditioners, hair dyes - Use level limitation may apply in some countries. 2-30% SENSORIAL EMOLLIENTS NAME INCI NATURAL STATUS CHARACTERISTICS Validated Properties Use level DPPG CG Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate - Liquid emollient for oils and emulsions - Provides a dry feel and improves the spreadability on the skin 1-30% ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE Isostearyl Isostearate - Liquid emollient for oils and emulsions - Provides a rich feel and improves the spreadability on the skin - Suitable for lipsticks - Binding agent for make-up powders, does not modify pigment coloration - Provides superfatting properties and balances the drying effect of powders 1-30% LABRAFAC CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - Universal emollient for oils and emulsions - Improves the feel and spreadability on the skin - Crystal-clear grade 1-30% MOD Octyldodecyl Myristate - Liquid emollient for oils and emulsions, non comedogenic - Provides a rich feel and improves the spreadability on the skin 1-30% 22

23 Sensorial emulsifiers Our range of sensorial emulsifiers enables the creation of innovative and surprizing textures Emulsifiers & co-emulsifiers Our emulsifiers are designed as troubleshooters for tricky formulas. They may be used in various areas: hair care, low energy processes, emulsions with a high amount of oil and water in oil systems, for instance Microemulsion technology A range of surfactant dedicated to formulate microemulsions, thermodynamically stable systems where two or more immiscible liquids are homogeneously dispersed Texturizing specialties Our texturizing specialties give body to emulsions or sticks, adjust viscosity, and improve spreadability upon the skin. They can also create sensorial winner formulations Solubilizers & dispersers Our range of solubilizers, activity boosters, and dispersers offer their benefits to a wide range of applications Sensorial emollients Our sensorial emollients are dedicated to any field of application; they contribute to the formation of a protective film and to maintaining the barrier function of the skin 23

24 24 Applications

25 APPLICATIONS Gattefossé ingredients can be of benefit in many formulations. With the help of the following tables, you can select the ideal active and functional ingredients according to targeted applications or formulation issues. 25

26 HAIR CARE FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS EMULSIFIERS/STABILIZERS SOLUBILIZER TEXTURING AGENTS ANTI-SPLIT ENDS BALANCE AND SOOTHE REPAIR AND STRENGTHEN PROTECT Conditioners (rinse off) Hair coloring Conditioners (leave on) Styling TEFOSE HC TEFOSE HC TEFOSE HC TEFOSE HC TRANSCUTOL CG ACTICIRE TRANSCUTOL CG CYTOBIOL BURDOCK 2 RC AGE DEFENSE 2 APIFIL CG EMULCIRE 61 CG EMULIUM DELTA EMULFREE LINE COMPRITOL 888 CG LIPOCIRE A SG DERMA-SENSITIVE ORANGE SECRETS FRESH CELLS CARROT PFE EMULIUM DELTA COMPRITOL 888 CG LEMON SECRETS ORIGINAL EXTRACTS FRESH CELLS PUMPKIN PFE PHYLDERM VEGETAL C 2 LYCO SOL MALA'KÎTE MALT SECRETS 26

27 MAKE-UP FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS COMPACTING/ BINDING AGENT TEXTURING AGENTS WETTING AGENTS/ EMOLLIENTS THICKENER EMULSIFIERS O/W W/O Tested heat resistance Soluble in oil phase COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO ACTICIRE COCOATE BG COMPRITOL 888 CG APIFIL CG EMULCIRE 61 CG PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG IN-TENSE DERMA-SENSITIVE LIPOCIRE A SG ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE EMULIUM 22 RADIANCE IN-TENSE PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG EMULIUM DELTA MALT SECRETS LYCO SOL EMULIUM MELLIFERA VEDACALM B TEFOSE 2000 CG 27

28 SUN CARE FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS EMULSIFIERS THICKENER TEXTURING AGENT SOLUBILIZER/ DISPERSER PREPARE (before) PROTECT (during) SOOTHE (after) High SPF Enhanced water resistance Anti-redness Repair: nourish & hydrate EMULIUM 22 EMULFREE LINE COMPRITOL 888 CG ACTICIRE COCOATE BG BAMBOO EXFOLIATING EXTRACT AGE DEFENSE 2 A ACTICIRE EMULIUM DELTA PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG LIPOCIRE A SG FRESH CELLS CARROT PFE DERMA-SENSITIVE ORIGINAL EXTRACT LOTUS RC FRESH CELLS PUMPKIN PFE MALA'KÎTE VEDACALM B SKIN-REPAIR BIO LYCO SOL MALT SECRETS PANCOGENE MARIN 2 MALT SECRETS RHODO'LÎTE 2 PHYLDERM VEGETAL C 2 PAPAYA SECRETS ZIN'CÎTE 28

29 MEN'S CARE FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS EMULSIFIERS O/W STABILIZER NOURISHING AND ENERGIZING MOISTURIZING ANTI-DULL COMPLEXION SMOOTHING AND FIRMING PROTECTION SOOTHING O/W Bi-gel EMULIUM 22 EMULFREE LINE OLI'VÎNE ACTICIRE CYTOBIOL IRIS A 2 EXPRESSION AGE DEFENSE 2 A EMULIUM DELTA PHYLDERM VEGETAL C 2 RC CYTOBIOL LUMIN-EYE IN-TENSE MALA'KÎTE DERMA-SENSITIVE EMULIUM MELLIFERA SKIN-REPAIR BIO RADIANCE RC MALT SECRETS ORIGINAL EXTRACT LOTUS PLUROL STEARIQUE PHYLDERM VEGETAL C 2 HEMA'TÎTE RHODO'LÎTE 2 VEDACALM B ZIN'CÎTE 29

30 SKIN CARE FOR BABIES & KIDS FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS FOR MILD TEXTURES ACTIVE INGREDIENTS NATURAL EMULSIFIERS O/W STABILIZER PEG-FREE NATURAL TEXTURING AGENTS NATURAL THICKENER MOISTURIZATION SOOTHING PROTECTION TOUCH OF FRUIT O/W W/O Bi-gel EMULIUM KAPPA 2 PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG EMULFREE LINE ACTICIRE COMPRITOL 888 CG GATULINE ACTICIRE DERMA-SENSITIVE AGE DEFENSE 2 FRUIT SECRETS EMULIUM MELLIFERA LIPOCIRE A SG RC BIO ORIGINAL EXTRACT LOTUS MALT SECRETS ORIGINAL EXTRACTS PLUROL STEARIQUE Regulatory and toxicity rules of baby products are different to those of other skin care products and may vary from one country to another. The conformity of the final product must be checked before launch. 30