Sensing the Future-Modern Sun Protection Beyond SPF

Transcription

1 Sensing the Future-Modern Sun Protection Beyond SPF Consumer insights translated into new sensory proven sunscreens Manal Sarris-Sr. Regional Marketing Manager November 6, 2014

2 Agenda 1. What does Ultimate UV Protection mean? 2. What people think about using sunscreens DSM survey 3. How DSM can fulfill unmet needs Identifying the sensory secrets of sunscreens New beach formulas The key ingredients 4. Claim opportunities Page 1

3 Sun Competence 1. What does Ultimate UV Protection mean? Page 2

4 UV light has two damaging action modes: a clearly perceivable and an invisible one UV-radiation intensity sunburn photoaging cumulated invisible damage photoaging To prevent sunburn and to preserve beautiful looking skin the selection of an adequate sunscreen and use discipline are a must Page 3

5 Summer holidays Typical consumer behaviour Skin Type II, beach holiday, Southern Europe: 5 10 MED practical maximum per day Use of SPF 25 sunscreen Typical actual consumer scenario: Clear sky, half day exposure Lower application than 2 mg/cm 2 (eg. 1mg/cm 2 ) SPF 25 SPF 5 Resulting Exposure: MED Additional risk factors: Consecutive exposure over several days Tropical sun: exposure >10 MED Depending on UVA PF of formulation also strong UVA exposure Typical consumer behaviour often results in sub-erythemal and even erythemal UV exposure Page 4

6 Amount of sunscreen applied by consumers Average 0.5 mg/cm 2 42 volunteers on the beach, Bech-Thomsen N, Wulf HC Median 0.5 mg/cm 2 photosensitive patients, Azurdia RM, Pagliaro JA, Diffey BL, Rhodes LE., Royal Liverpool University Hospital 1999 Median: 0.79 mg/cm 2 Neale R, Williams G, Green A., Queensland, Australia 2002 Median: 0.39 mg/cm students, P. Autier, M. Boniol, G. Severi, J-F. Doré, 2003 Average: 0.79 mg/cm 2 20 sun seekers, SPF 15, Hurghada, Egypt) Petersen, B., Datta, P., Philipsen, P.A., Wulf, H.C., 2013 Big gap between recommended application amount and real amount Page 5

7 What prevents people from applying enough cream for better protection against erythemal and suberythemal UV damage? Page 6

8 Page 7 2. What people think about using sunscreens DSM survey

9 DSM sunscreen survey, the research process 1. Online Community 2. Online Survey 20 people part in a 4 day online community We posed a range of tasks, questions and discussions around using sunscreens 311 people (representative sample) completed an online survey The survey focused on their sunscreen perceptions and usage on their summer beach vacation in 2013 Page 8

10 The biggest problem for people was how the stickiness made sand stick to them 74% believe that SPF is the most important purchase driver 39% start their holiday with Factor 30 Sunscreen 35% of people found all sunscreens greasy or oily Men were more critical and found negative sensory attributes more impacting Especially good is the protection of sunscreen for me..everything else is mostly just annoying. The creaming annoying, leaving only oily hands. If you sweat a greasy film forms on the skin Annoying! the worst are sun milks with a high SPF they are difficult to spread and take long to absorb Sensory attributes were often linked to the end benefit (i.e. how it stopped you from doing something) Page 9

11 SPF used during holidays 140 Which SPF factor would you normally use on holiday? (MR) % What SPF do you normally start your holiday on? (SR) 9% 18% 11% % 4 lower than 6 6 3% 11 5% Don't know SPF 30 the most popular SPF factor, 39% use it as the starting one on holidays Men tend to use lower SPF factors Risk of sub-erythemal and even erythemal UV exposure at lower SPF s 8% 33 6% 24 2% 5 Page 10 (MR = multiple response; 404 inputs received from 311 people of the survey ; SR = single response )

12 People talk positively and negatively about sunscreens Light Refreshing Velvety Silky Smooth -23% -26% -26% -32% -32% -35% 35% 34% 33% 24% 23% Leaves white residue Oily Film Greasy Sticky Glossy/ Shiny Which of the following words would you associate with sunscreens? (MR) Especially good is the protection of sunscreen for me. Everything else is mostly just annoying. (Qual response) People have a differentiated view on sunscreens Positives are paired with negatives potential reason for lower acceptance and compliance Shiny, and sticky most prominent negative associations -40% -30% -20% -10% 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% Page 11 (MR = multiple response, N=311)

13 Sensory feedback when using sunscreens after application you always need to wash your hands otherwise you have oily spots in your book 53% Which of the following best describes how it feels when you are rubbing it in (MR) 48% 34% 20% 15% Rub out 12% First in mind are easy spreading and absorption but only for 50% of the people Greasy and sticky are high on the negatives After some minutes, it always feels not so great, but at least I feel protected from the hotter than hot sun. Easy to distribute 34% Quickly absorbed 31% 29% Relaxing Greasy Sticky Thin Which of the following best describes how it feels once you have rubbed it in? (MR) 26% 23% 17% Afterfeel 12% 10% Afterfeel lower scored for the positives, negatives remain Opportunity to further strengthen some of the positives whilst also answering some of the negatives Page 12

14 Biggest negative sensory aspects of sunscreens Top 5 ranked Please rank the following negative aspects of sunscreen % Makes sand sticks to your skin You have to wash your hands The process of having to apply it Can t touch phone or book Have to apply as soon as out of the water 5% Average of all negative aspects 13% 50% I really hate it Slightly annoying Not too much bother Really don t mind My hands are still ' greasy ', so it is difficult or impossible to touch food, open bottles and especially books, cell phone, MP3 players etc. because it makes them dirty. People link the negative aspects of sunscreen to how they make their activities less pleasant 71% who said makes sand stick to me found it annoying or hated it In total 63% were annoyed of or hated the negative aspects of sunscreens Sun products do not make life and beach vacation easy and relaxing How much does this bother you? (%) SR Page 13

15 Strongest wishes for improving the sensory of sunscreens Imagine that you could make one thing better about sunscreens. Which of the following would you most like a company to solve for you? (SR) % selected something to do with sticky Responses Overcoming stickiness highest on the wish list although other negative sensory parameters deserve attention as well The sticky feel The time length of protection The sand sticking to my skin The oily and greasy feel The applying process Speed of absorption N=311 Page 14

16 Insight Sun cream really is a hero product, because it allows me to spend time doing the things I love on vacation but the relaxation becomes a frustration as I can t touch anything and everything sticks to me! Opportunity for a product to help people relax and enjoy the moment Page 15

17 3. How DSM can fulfill unmet needs Identifying the sensory secrets of sunscreens New beach formulas The key ingredients Page 16

18 Identifying the sensory secrets of sunscreens Qualitative and quantitative analysis 75 commercial sunscreens from Europe and the US Descriptive sensory analysis of these lotions and semi-solids (all emulsions) 15 highly trained evaluators educated by Rigid evaluation scheme with reproducible results on sensory features Results in the sensory landscape of sunscreens 80 % of our panelist are formulators for cosmetic products We speak with one sensory language to optimize your products Page 17

19 Our sensory evaluation clock Descriptive sensory analysis of cosmetic emulsions Multiple reference products to calibrate sensory scale Scoring on a scale from 0 to 100 Page 18

20 We understand the global sensory landscape of sunscreens Page 19 Example of mapping the 75 tested sunscreens

21 Reading and interpretation of a boxplot Reading Interpretation Mean of range upper end desired range Example, order of valuation will change depending on parameter excellent good medium 50% of all sunscreens 80% of all sunscreens not so good poor Lower end Page 20

22 3. How DSM can fulfill unmet needs Identifying the sensory secrets of sunscreens New sunscreens The key ingredients Page 21

23 New sensory proven and SPF 50 sunscreen lotion Beach at your Fingertips SPF 50 Lotion Positioning In vivo SPF tested (FDA), Broad spectrum Water resistant (80 minutes) Body lotion beach, leisure low viscosity dispenser Benefits Dry touch Lightweight, almost unperceivable sunscreen, minimizing fingerprints Page 22

24 Beach at your Fingertips SPF 50 Lotion Sensory highlights compared to SPF 50 market products High spreading score, enables easy distribution as desired for a body sunscreen Rub out Above average score for wetness light and refreshing skin feel at application Very low whiteness score for a lotion SPF 50 sunscreen Immediate afterfeel Invisible sun protection represented by extremely low whiteness score Perception of a lightweight and non-tacky film is characterizing the immediate afterfeel: very low stickiness and thickness score Page 23

25 Beach at your Fingertips SPF 50 Lotion Sensory highlights compared to SPF 50 market products Very low gloss and shine Afterfeel after 20 minutes Nude skin look: not any white streaks or greyish look present No sticky skin feeling better than majority of market products Perception of an above-average dry touch Page 24 Scoring ranges represent 80% of sensory-analysed SPF 50 market products

26 Beach at your Fingertips SPF 50 Lotion Description SPF 50 sunscreen (In-Vivo SPF Tested) Broad spectrum water resistant 80 minutes body lotion beach, leisure low viscosity dispenser Ingredients INCI % w/w A PARSOL 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 PARSOL 340 Octocrylene 2.70 PARSOL HMS Homosalate PARSOL EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 PARSOL SLX Polysilicone PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnmate 3.00 Benzophenone AMPHISOL K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.20 Paracera M Microcrystalline Wax 2.00 SilCare Silicone 41M15 Caprylyl Methicone 2.00 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00 B Glycerin 5.00 Xanthan Gum 0.20 Avicell PC 611 Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum 0.60 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Aqua ad 100 Benefits Acrylates & C12-22 C Allianz OPT Alkylmethacrylate Copolymer Lightweight, almost unperceivable sunscreen, minimizing fingerprints Page 25

27 Sensory Mapping: Beach at Your Fingertips SPF 50 compared to market brand SPF 50 Waxy % 20 Gloss 20 Thickness Wetness Stickiness Spreadability Gloss Whiteness DSM SPF 50 sunscreen featuring AMPHISOL K and PARSOL UV filters delivers sensory advantages.. Rub out Higher fresh and moisturized feel Easier to distribute and spread over the whole body Almost no whitening Immediate afterfeel Strongly reduced gloss Stickiness at extremely low level Very lightweight feel (low thickness score) Afterfeel after 20 minutes Further reduced gloss and shine Significantly higher dry touch (high waxy score) delivering a nude skin feel Page 26 DSM SPF 50 sunscreen lotion Branded SPF 50 sunscreen lotion (banana boat)

28 New SPF 35 facial sunscreen Sensory compared to sunscreen range and single market products Page 27

29 The Weight is Over SPF 35 For Face Positioning Facial cream In vivo SPF tested (FDA) Colipa In-Vitro UVA-PF>10 (Global Formula) Broad spectrum Daily Wear and beach leisure medium viscosity jar or dispenser Benefits Sets a new standard in non stickiness and extraordinary dry touch enabling users to handle pads and smartphones without worry Page 28

30 The Weight is Over SPF 35 For Face Sensory highlights compared to SPF 30 market products Rub out Very fast absorbing upon application ideal for a facial sunscreen Above average score for wetness light and refreshing skin feel at application Immediate afterfeel Gloss and shine significantly reduced compared to market products No tacky and sticky feel but smoothly and velvety gliding over the skin Superior dry touch represented by high wax percentage Page 29 Scoring ranges represent 80% of sensory-analysed SPF 30 market products

31 The Weight is Over SPF 35 For Face Sensory highlights compared to SPF 30 market products Alternative Gloss and shine almost not present Afterfeel after 20 minutes Not any sticky feeling, better than any tested sunscreen in the market High score for slipperiness smooth and velvety gliding skin feel Extraordinary dry touch setting new standard Page 30 Scoring ranges represent 80% of sensory-analysed SPF 30 market products

32 The Weight is Over SPF 35 For Face Positioning Facial cream In vivo SPF tested (FDA) Colipa In-Vitro UVA-PF>10 (Global Formula) Broad spectrum Daily Wear and beach leisure medium viscosity jar or dispenser Benefits Sets a new standard in non stickiness and extraordinary dry touch enabling users to handle pads and smartphones without worry Ingredients INCI % w/w A PARSOL 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 PARSOL 340 Octocrylene 2.70 PARSOL HMS Homosalate PARSOL EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 PARSOL SLX Polysilicone Benzophenone AMPHISOL K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 Paracera M Microcrystalline Wax 2.00 SilCare Silicone 41M15 Caprylyl Methicone 1.50 BHT 0.05 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00 B Glycerin 5.00 Xanthan Gum 0.20 Avicell PC 611 Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum 1.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Aqua ad 100 C Niacinamide PC Niacinamide 3.00 Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, ALPAFLOR Edelweiss EP Glycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium 1.00 Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate VALVANCE Touch 150 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer Page 31

33 Sensory Mapping: The Weight is Over SPF 35 For Face compared to market brand SPF 30 Slipperiness 20 Waxy % 20 Gloss 20 Waxy % Wetness Absorbency Slipperiness DSM SPF 35 facial sunscreen Gloss Stickiness Branded SPF 30 facial sunscreen DSM SPF 35 facial sunscreen outperforms market brand in sensory attributes.. Rub out Fast absorbency - ideal for a facial cream with same high fresh and moisturized feel (wetness score) Significantly lower gloss Immediate afterfeel Stickiness at extremely low level Smooth and easy gliding over the skin (slightly higher slipperiness score) Dry touch feeling better perceivable (waxy score) Afterfeel after 20 minutes Very low gloss Smooth and easy gliding over the skin Very pronounced dry touch (very high waxy score) Page 32

34 3. How DSM can fulfill unmet needs Identifying the sensory secrets of sunscreens New beach formulas The key ingredients Page 33

35 PARSOL 1789, strong SPF contribution PARSOL 1789 can double the SPF Page 34

36 PARSOL TX the inorganic UV filter with best formulation compatibility Intention to grant EP patent Rutile TiO 2 Coating designed for excellent compatibility with PARSOL 1789 and other ingredients in formulation Rutile Titanium dioxide core Silica Dimethicone Regulatory compliance: fully meeting the nano TiO 2 specification of the SCCS opinion EP Patent claims: Cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising multiply coated titanium dioxide particles, said particles having at least one inner inorganic silica coating and one outer organic coating and a water content of less than 1.5% Page 35

37 PARSOL TX: delivers key features for formulators aiming to use stable and safe TiO 2 Compatibility with PARSOL 1789, no discoloration Complete coating, no discoloration indicating oxidation or free radical formation in ascorbyl palmitate test Page 36

38 AMPHISOL K the emulsifier of choice for all kind of sun formulations AMPHISOL K provides performing environment for UV filters and thus boosts SPF 3 different formulations regarding emoillents, UV filters In vivo SPF comparison at the same set of test subjects Mean of two test institutes Page 37

39 VALVANCE Touch 150 to further enhance the dry touch feel of a sun lotion * significant level p< 0.01 compared to control = robust reoccurring effects Page 38

40 Page Claim opportunities

41 Recent claims on functional benefits that can be related to sensory features Expected sensory parameters of formulas: Rub out below average thickness score Afterfeel Low thickness / amount score Low stickiness score High % wax in residue dry feeling Triple protection: sun, water, sand (2013) revolutionary antisand texture (2014) leaving skin dry to the touch so the sand will not stick (2012) Page 40

42 Anti-sand stickiness claim comparison market sunscreen vs. new DSM sun lotion 2 minutes after rub out Market product, SPF 50+ (launch 2014) with claim anti-sand DSM SPF 50+ sun lotion After 20 minutes Market product, SPF 50+ (launch 2014) with claim anti-sand DSM SPF 50+ sun lotion Page 41

43 Recent sensory claims that could as well provide functional benefits for people at the beach Expected sensory parameters of formulas: Rub out above average spreading score below average thickness score Afterfeel high waxiness score low amount and thickness score low gloss score Anti gloss, mattifying, dry touch designed to spread easily over the skin for a weightless dry touch feel. Anti shine, anti gloss to push the boundaries of suncare, for a bare skin with a silky and smooth feel Page 42

44 Corner stones of Ultimate UV Protection Ingredients PARSOL UVA and UV-B filters AMPHISOL K emulsifier Selected skin care actives to support this Ultimate UV protection VALVANCE to perfect the sensory attributes Formulation Know-how Type of chassis Compatibilities and synergies Testing Know-how SPF, UVA-PF, water-resistance Sensory profile Regulatory expertise SPF, UVA-, water-resistance Scientific expertise Own studies Sub-erythemal UV damage Film forming properties SPF 50+ UVA/UVB Very high protection UVA With Niacinamide PC and ALPAFLOR Edelweiss Consumer insights Exposure scenarios: beach care, day care Consumer research Online community Online survey Publications around sun Behavioural and case studies Skin biology Customer s brands Promise and message Claims Trends Creation of trends Understanding what s hot Page 43

45 Disclaimer Copyright 2014 DSM Nutritional Products, 4002 Basel, Switzerland. All rights reserved. Although DSM has used diligent care to ensure that the information provided herein is accurate and up to date, DSM makes no representation or warranty of the accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the information. This presentation only contains scientific and technical information for business to business use. Country or region-specific information should also be considered when labeling or advertising to final consumers. This publication does not constitute or provide scientific or medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment and is distributed without warranty of any kind, either expressly or implied. In no event shall DSM be liable for any damages arising from the reader s reliance upon, or use of, these materials. The reader shall be solely responsible for any interpretation or use of the material contained herein. The content of this document is subject to change without further notice. Please contact your local DSM representative for more details. All trademarks listed in this brochure are either registered trademarks or trademarks of DSM in The Netherlands and/or other countries unless explicitly otherwise stated. Page 44

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