new edition 2016 Emulsions walking on the milky way Lotion

Transcription

1 new edition 2016 Emulsions walking on the milky way Milk Butter Lotion

2 Content Being different is not always an aspiration, but when it comes to your cosmetic product, you want it to shine, be outstanding, be different than all the others! During this walk on the Milky Way, we will present you a variety of ingredients that will inspire you to develop a new world of textures. 2

3 Foreword: mixing the unmixable The viscosity, the body and the sensorial profile of emulsions are just some of the most important characteristics of an emulsion. There is a wide variety of emulsifiers on the market that have good stabilization and emulsification properties, but finding emulsifiers that allow us to have a targeted influence on the above characteristics is difficult. We would like to bring you new ideas for ways of working with Dr. Straetmans emulsifiers, with viscosity and sensorial profile constituting the main criteria for differentiation. 3

4 From liquid to buttery: viscosity Milk - because we need it Lotion - we love the classics in this brochure Butter - sometimes we need more First concept the versatile lotion Second concept the light lotion Third concept the caring lotion 4

5 Lotion - we love the classics One of the most common products in the cosmetics industry is lotion. It is the most used application and can be found in almost every sector of the industry. As a matter of fact, it is the classic among the emulsions, but being a classic doesn t make this type of emulsion old fashioned or easy to develop. It is the classic concept because it is versatile and such a necessity. The challenge lies in getting the most out of this emulsion and making it interesting and unique. There are several types of emulsifiers that allow the development of lotions. The major demand on these emulsifiers is their compatibility with different actives and ingredients that may interfere with other raw materials in the formulation. Another relevant issue during the development phase is the ability to find suitable co-emulsifiers or ingredients that can be used to modify the sensory profile and viscosity of a lotion without compromising its stability. 5

6 6 First concept the versatile lotion symbio muls GC Natural emulsifier blend Easy-to-use For a variety of different viscosities and textures Light and smooth skin feel Electrolyte compatible Basic antimicrobial activity No need for a co-emulsifier ph-range: Dosage 3-6% Compatible with any type of oil Compatible with any type of gelling agent Compatible with various active ingredients Compatible with surfactants For oil phases between 15-40% Consider incompatibility with quaternized ingredients in hair care applications dermofeel PS can be used instead To be versatile and flexible when it comes to your product concept, you need to find an easy-to use emulsifier that can be combined with any type of oil or active system, that is electrolyte compatible, and which builds different viscosities without having an influence on the sensorial profile. Babassu oil melts immediately upon contact with the skin, is absorbed quickly and gives the skin a soft and silky feeling. Brazil nut oil is rich in oleic acid and forms a caring film on the skin that reduces moisture loss. Its unsaturated fatty acids support restoration processes in the skin. Natural Body Lotion Brazil L A-1014 Claims: Soft texture lotion provides the skin with moisture / For pleasantly silky skin sensation and fast absorption PHASE INGREDIENT INCI (EU) SUPPLIER % A Deionised Water Aqua dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Dr. Straetmans 0.10 dermosoft 1388 eco Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate Dr. Straetmans 3.50 Glycerol (85%) Glycerin, Aqua Merck 3.00 A1 Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.30 B symbio muls GC Specification Values: Appearance: white emulsion. ph-value: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans 6.00 dermosoft GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans 0.20 Beraca BBA Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil Beraca* 3.00 Babassu Oil refined Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol Beraca* 4.00 Brazil Nut Oil refined organic Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil, Tocopherol Beraca* 4.00 dermofeel sensolv Isoamyl Laurate Dr. Straetmans 6.00 dermofeel Toco 70 non-gmo Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Dr. Straetmans 0.20 C Perf. Rose Methyleugenol reduced Parfum Frey & Lau 0.25 Ajidew NL 50 Sodium PCA Ajinomoto 2.00 D Citric Acid (sol. 20%) Citric Acid Merck q. s. * distributed in Germany by Dr. Straetmans GmbH

7 8 Second concept the light lotion After choosing the main emulsifi er, the question is: How can the sensory profile and the viscosity be modified without having an impact on the stability of the emulsion? Lotions with lower viscosities, less body or lighter feeling on the skin might be of interest in several product concepts. For this application a viscosity modifi er or a body-andtexture modifier may be suitable. The viscosity modifier: dermofeel PP Non ionic O/W- Co-emulsifier Reduces viscosity without having an impact on stability Combination with anionic main emulsifier is recommended For low viscosity lotions ph range: 4 8 HLB: ~9 Dosage: 1-2% The body-and-texture modifier: dermofeel G 5 L Non-ionic O/W-texturizer Reduces body of emulsions without interfering with the stability Leads to smoother texture and structure Increases glossiness in colour cosmetics Compatible with anionic and non ionic emulsifiers ph range 4 8 HLB: ~13 Dosage: 1 2%

8 Light lotion / The viscosity modifier: dermofeel PP Basic Body Lotion JK Claims: dermofeel PP as a viscosity modifier PHASE INGREDIENT INCI (EU) SUPPLIER % A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerol 99.5% Glycerin, Aqua Merck 5.00 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Dr. Straetmans 0.10 Verstatil PC Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Dr. Straetmans 1.00 A1 Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.30 B dermofeel GSC Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Dr. Straetmans 3.00 Lanette O Cetearyl Alkohol BASF 2.00 dermofeel PP Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate Dr. Straetmans 1.00 The addition of dermofeel PP to an anionic main emulsifier like dermofeel GSC leads to a significant reduction in viscosity of the same formulation. Viscosity 21 C] Viscosity depending on time Time of storage [days] With a panel test, we were able to establish a change in the texture with the addition of dermofeel G 5 L to an emulsion based on the non-ionic emulsifier dermofeel PS. Less body Lighter and smoother texture In this case, it improves the absorption of the emulsion Sensorial profi le Tack Color Shine Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Gustav Heess 8.00 dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr. Straetmans 9.00 C Perf. Baby Cotton Parfum Cosnaderm (symrise) 0.30 dermofeel GSC 4% dermofeel GSC/PP 3:1 Film Texture D Sodium Hydroxide (sol 10%) Sodium Hydroxide Merck q. s. Specification Values: Appearance: off-white sprayable lotion. ph-value: Absorption dermofeel PS 3% dermofeel PS + 1% G 5 L Pick up 9 10 Whitening Body

9 Light lotion / The body-and-texture modifier: dermofeel G 5 L Basic Soft Texture Lotion Claims: dermofeel G 5 L as texture modifier L Third concept the caring lotion PHASE INGREDIENT INCI (EU) SUPPLIER % A Glycerol (85%) Glycerin, Aqua diverse 7.00 Deionised Water Aqua dermosoft 1388 Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate Dr. Straetmans 3.00 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Dr. Straetmans 0.10 A1 Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.30 B Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF 3.00 dermofeel PS Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate Dr. Straetmans 2.00 dermosoft GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans 0.30 dermofeel TC-7 Triheptanoin Dr. Straetmans 6.00 Sunflower oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Gustav Heess 7.00 dermofeel G 5 L Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate Dr. Straetmans 2.00 dermofeel MT 70 non GMO Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr. Straetmans Specification Values: Appearance: smooth low viscous white emulsion. ph value: For many product concepts, it is necessary to formulate caring lotions that have a long-lasting effect. For example, giving an O/W-emulsion a water proof fi lm is not an easy task. The addition of a suitable sensory modifier that is able to create a long-lasting film on the skin can be the solution in cases where the goal is not to gain the richness of the emulsion through the oil phase. With dermofeel GO soft and dermofeel viscolid we offer two interesting ingredients that create a detectable film on the skin

10 dermofeel viscolid Naturally derived sensory modifier Thickens and stabilizes oil phases of W/O emulsions Creates a water-resistant film on the skin Reduces the TEWL Enriches the skin feel Low influence on the viscosity of O/W-emulsions Dosage: 1-3% ph independend Change of TEWL value related to t0 [%] t0 = before application Relative change of TEWL values after treatment with O/W emulsion (n = 5, relat. Hum. ~ 40%, t = 20 C) t1 = 20 minutes after application t2 = 40 minutes after application Sun Cream Sensitive L Claims: High protection sun care lotion: calculated SPF 30 / dermofeel GO soft as waterproof agent / UVA/UVB ratio: 0,82 calculated with BASF Sunscreen Simulator PHASE INGREDIENT INCI (EU) SUPPLIER % A Deionised Water Aqua A1 Glycerin 99.5% Glycerin Highchem 3.00 Verstatil BOB Benzyl Alcohol; Caprylyl Glycol; Benzoic Acid Dr. Straetmans 1.50 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol Dr. Straetmans 0.10 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.30 Lara Care A200 Galactoarabinan Lonza 0.50 B dermofeel GSC Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Dr. Straetmans 3.50 dermofeel GO soft Polyglyceryl 2-Sesquioleate Dr. Straetmans 0.50 dermofeel GO soft Naturally derived W/O-emulsifier Long lasting film on the skin Non-greasy skin feel Good compatibility with anionic emulsifiers like dermofeel GSC No influence on the stability of the emulsion ph range: 4 8 Dosage: 0.5% HLB: 4 OW with 5% dermofeel viscolid Placebo Other suitable W/O-emulsifiers: dermofeel PGPR Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol BASF 2.00 dermofeel viscolid Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Dr. Straetmans 1.00 dermofeel TC-7 Triheptanoin Dr. Straetmans 8.00 dermofeel BGC Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Dr. Straetmans 4.00 dermofeel sensolv Isoamyl Laurate Dr. Straetmans 6.00 Uvinul A Plus Granular Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate BASF 6.00 Uvinul T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone BASF 2.50 Uvinul MC 80 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; BHT BASF

11 PHASE INGREDIENT INCI (EU) SUPPLIER % Buriti Oil Refined Organic Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil; Tocopherol Beraca 0.10 B1 dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO Xiameter PMX-0245 Cyclopentasiloxane Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr. Straetmans 0.20 Cyclopentasiloxane Dow Corning 4.00 C Tinosorb M Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano); Aqua; Decyl Glucoside; Propylene Glycol; Xanthan Gum BASF Deionised Water Aqua 2.00 Specification Values: Ethanol Appearance: organic denat. yellow emulsion. ph value: Alcohol Denat. * distributed in Germany by Dr. diverse Straetmans GmbH3.00 D ** calculated with BASF Sunscreen Simulator Perf. Verpeche P Parfum Frey & Lau Verstatil BOB is an easy-to-use preservative blend based on multifunctionals and widely accepted preservatives and it is a suitable replacement for parabens, phenoxyethanol and MIT. dermofeel BGC, dermofeel TC-7 and dermofeel sensolv offer the perfect combination of polar oil components to dissolve high quantities of UV-filters. 15

12 Dr. Straetmans GmbH Merkurring 90 D Hamburg, Germany T +49 (0) F +49 (0) info@dr-straetmans.de Disclaimer: The information contained herein is meant to demonstrate how our products can be used. The given data are suggestions without any guarantee aimed to support customers development. As production conditions at our customers facilities are beyond our control we refuse to accept any liability involved in the use of our products. Please observe possible third party patent rights.