What is BENTONE GEL IPM V? What is Isopropyl Myristate? Where can BENTONE GEL IPM V be used? What are the typical use levels?

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1 Questions & Answers

2 Contents What is BENTONE GEL IPM V? What is Isopropyl Myristate? What are the major application benefits? Where can BENTONE GEL IPM V be used? How do I incorporate this product into my formulations? What are the typical use levels? How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL IPM V differ from that of pure Isopropyl Myristate? Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL IPM V? 1

3 Q: What is BENTONE GEL IPM V? A: BENTONE GEL IPM V is a dispersion of fully activated BENTONE 27 V, a nonanimal origin hectorite organoclay, in Isopropyl Myristate. It has been designed to impart rheological control and suspension in organic and silicone based cosmetics. BENTONE GEL IPM V is particularly useful in emulsions and can be used in cold process systems. BENTONE GEL IPM V provides the combined benefits of Isopropyl Myristate and hectorite organoclay. The Isopropyl Myristate evaporates rapidly. This combined Figure 1. BENTONE GEL IPM V with the smooth after feel achieved with hectorite organoclay results in a pleasant residual silkiness on the skin, masking greasy or tacky components. The hectorite organoclay also provides thermostable viscosity control and provides thermostable viscosity control. It can also be used as an alternative to traditional polymer or cellulose-based thickeners for stabilising emulsions. The INCI name of BENTONE GEL IPM V is Isopropyl Myristate, Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate. Typical Properties Property Appearance Viscosity (MM cps) Ash Content (%) Total Plate Count Specification Tan Gel (EU) (US) (EU) (US) (US) Table 1. Typical Properties of BENTONE GEL IPM V 2

4 Q: What is Isopropyl Myristate? Isopropyl myristate is the ester of isopropanol and myristic acid. It is a highly polar emollient and lubricant, which reduces the greasy feel caused by high levels of oil in formulations. Figure 2. Chemical Structure of Isopropyl Myristate The high Emollient Skin Spreading Factor (ESSF=8.3), as seen in figure 3, shows that it spreads rapidly on the skin, allowing formulations to apply more smoothly, while leaving a smooth, dry skin feel. Isopropyl myristate also helps in products where good absorption through the skin is desired. Figure 3. Emollient skin spreading factors Figure 4. Interfacial surface tensions 3

5 Q: What are the major application benefits? A: The application benefits include: Improved formulation stability, including elevated temperature stability Thickening and suspending Thixotropic rheological flow Enhanced dispersion of actives Rich texture and improved formulation aesthetics Silky skin feel Masks greasy or tacky components Ease of spreading and even coverage Provides emollience Suitable for cold process formulations 4

6 Q: Where can BENTONE GEL IPM V be used? A: BENTONE GEL IPM V is suitable for various personal care applications. Some formulation examples are listed in this application guide. This product is very easy to incorporate into the oil phase of emulsions, or all oil systems. Applications may include: Antiperspirants Deodorant sticks Haircare products Eye make-up Lip products Skincare products Suncare products Creams/lotions 5

7 Q: How do I incorporate the product into my formulations? A: BENTONE GEL IPM V may be added to the oil phase of a formulation at any convenient stage during the manufacturing cycle. This is a very high viscosity, shearthinning product. To ensure good homogeneous mixing is achieved, care should be taken to overcome the large viscosity differential existing between the BENTONE GEL and the other lower viscosity components. The use of medium to high shear mixing equipment is recommended. Thorough mixing of the BENTONE GEL in the oil phase should be ensured before continuing to the next processing step, such as emulsification. Batch Processing Single Phase Systems Always add the BENTONE GEL, under shear, to a portion of the organic component or solvent with which it is most compatible. Mix until homogeneous before adding the other ingredients. Multi-Phase Systems (e.g. emulsions) Treat as with the single phase but always ensure the BENTONE GEL thoroughly mixed in before continuing to the emulsification stage. additive is Continuous Processing The BENTONE GEL should be added to the oil phase at any convenient point, which meets the above guidelines for batch processing. In multimanifold systems, a flowable pre-mix of the BENTONE GEL with a compatible oil or solvent should be made in a side vessel. Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, stir the BENTONE GEL and slowly add the most compatible component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains homogeneous at each stage. 6

8 Q: What are the typical use levels? A: Product use levels depend on the amount of thickening, stabilisation and cushioning emollience desired in the final formulation. Suspension will be provided by concentrations of %. In emulsions, thickening will occur only in the oil phase. Emulsion viscosities will be influenced by concentrations of 3-5%. Higher levels of BENTONE GEL will have a greater effect on the viscosity. Thermostable viscosity in single phase systems may be achieved by adding 10-25% to the formulation. Q: How do the rheological properties of BENTONE GEL IPM V differ from that of pure Isopropyl Myristate? A: The flow curves and oscillation curve (frequency sweep) of BENTONE GEL IPM V and Isopropyl Myristate are compared below. BENTONE GEL IPM V is a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour, while Isopropyl Myristate is a low viscosity liquid with almost a constant viscosity when the shear rate is varied. In addition, BENTONE GEL IPM V is a gel with a strong structure and excellent stability. Figure 5. Addition of BENTONE 27 V produces a high viscosity gel, with thixotropic flow behaviour Figure 6. BENTONE 27 V provides excellent stability in Isopropyl Myristate 7

9 Q: Can you demonstrate the applications with some formulation examples? A: A representative formulation with BENTONE GEL IPM V is listed here to demonstrate the potential applications. Formula 1: Talc Spray Antiperspirant Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL IPM V (Isopropyl Myristate and Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 8.0 Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Cyclomethicone) Dow Corning 5.0 Ethanol 2.0 Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 1.5 PHASE B Locron L (Aluminium Chlorohydrate) Clariant 6.0 J-68 BC (Talc) US Cosmetic Group 2.0 PHASE C Fragrance 0.5 PHASE D Isobutane/Butane Propellant 75.0 Total Procedure 1. Combine Phase A using medium shear equipment. 2. Add Phase B to Phase A at a slow rate and mix until uniform and smooth. 3. Add Phase C to Phase A+B and mix. 4. Charge using Phase D. Physical Properties Appearance ph Viscosity Clear water thin liquid, with active at the bottom. Opaque when shaken N/A N/A 8

10 Formula 2: Athletes Foot Powder Spray Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A Casid UDA (Undecylenic Acid) CasChem 2.0 Diisopropyl Sebacate 2.2 Menthol Crystals (Menthol) Merck 0.3 Fragrance 0.2 PHASE B BENTONE GEL IPM V (Isopropyl Myristate and Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 1.5 PHASE C Propellant 88.0 J-68 BC (Talc) US Cosmetic Group 4.0 Zinc Undecylenate Merck 2.0 Total Procedure 1. Premix Phase A until fully dispersed. 2. Add Phase B to Phase A. 4. Premix Phase C and add to Phase A+B. Physical Properties Appearance ph Viscosity Clear water thin liquid, with active at the bottom. Opaque when shaken N/A N/A 9

11 Formula 3: Water in Oil Suncream Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL IPM V (Isopropyl Myristate and Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 2.5 Tegosoft OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) Evonik Degussa 13.5 Isohexadecane Bayer 8.0 Parsol MCX (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) Roche Vitamins 6.0 Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) Evonik Degussa 5.0 Tegin 4100 Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) Evonik Degussa 2.5 Abil EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10-1 Dimethicone) Evonik Degussa 2.5 Isolan GO 33 (Polyglyceryl 3-Oleate) Evonik Degussa 1.75 PHASE B NANOX 200 (Zinc Oxide) ELEMENTIS Specialties 10.0 PHASE C Deionised Water Sodium Chloride 0.75 Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate 0.75 PHASE D 1,3-Butylene Glycol Siber Hegner 3.0 Phenoxetol (Phenoxyethanol) Clariant 0.2 Total Procedure 1. Heat Phase A together to 75 C. 2. Transfer to a silverson homogeniser and with mixing gradually add Phase B. Mix until fully dispersed. 3. In a separate container warm Phase C to 75 C. 4. Using high shear mixing (e.g. Silverson homogeniser), slowly add Phase A+B to Phase C. 5. Continue to mix for several minutes. 6. Transfer to a propeller stirrer and commence cooling. 7. Under 35 C add Phase D. 8. Mix until uniform. Physical Properties Appearance ph White cream N/A Viscosity - Brookfield DV-II+, Spindle 7, 10 rpm (cps)

12 Formula 4: Glitter Stick Ingredient Supplier % w/w PHASE A BENTONE GEL IPM V (Isopropyl Myristate and Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene Carbonate) ELEMENTIS Specialties 35.0 Mineral Oil 43.0 Syncrowax ERL-C (C Acid Glycol Ester) Croda 17.0 PHASE B Glitter 5.0 Total Procedure 1. Heat Phase A together until melted. 2. Add Phase B and cool. Physical Properties Appearance ph Viscosity Off white glitter stick N/A N/A 11

13 Q: Is testing data available to help show the performance benefits provided by BENTONE GEL IPM V? A: Experimental data has been obtained by testing the formulation, with and without BENTONE GEL IPM V. Apparent performance benefits are demonstrated here. BENTONE GEL IPM V in Talc Spray Antiperspirant (Formula 1) and BENTONE GEL IPM V in Atheletes Foot Powder Spray (Formula 2) In both of these formulations we witness the same effects. The BENTONE GEL IPM V helps provide a uniform dosage of the actives and helps enhance their suspension, as seen in figure 7 and 8, where a standard aerosol antiperspirant is shown 16 seconds and 1 minute after shaking. The fine particle size of the hectorite and the easy dispersibility helps to prevent valve clogging, compared to other rheological additives. Figure 7. Antiperspirant sprays 16 seconds after shaking Figure 8. Antiperspirant sprays 1 minute after shaking 12

14 BENTONE GEL IPM V in Water in Oil Suncream (Formula 3) The isopropyl myristate helps to reduce the greasiness of the suncream, while the organoclay helps improve the application properties and the stability of the formulation. Invitro SPF testing showed a slight optimisation of the SPF, when the BENTONE GEL was used, see table 2. SPF Without Organoclay /-7.68 With BENTONE GEL IPM V /-7.32 Table 2. In-vitro analysis of W/O sunscreens Figure 9. Flowcurve comparison for suncreams Figure 10. Frequency sweep comparison Figure 9 shows that the incorporation of the BENTONE GEL IPM V increases the low shear viscosity, making it appear more Figure 11. Temperature oscillation comparison luxurious, and improves the thixotropy, giving the formulation better application properties. The frequency sweep in figure 10 shows us that the sample with organoclay had a constantly greater elastic modulus throughout the angular frequency region testing, indicating good stability. In figure 11 we see that the formulation with BENTONE GEL IPM V is stable throughout the temperature range of C, whereas the sample without organoclay showed instability throughout the entire temperature range. BENTONE GEL IPM V in Glitter Stick (Formula 4) In this formulation the BENTONE GEL IPM V helps to deliver stick body, enhance skin feel and aids application, while improving the pigment dispersion. 13

15 Before using any of our products please consult our Safety Data Sheets. The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use. Copyright 2008, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved. Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc. Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc. For more details please contact: AMERICAS Elementis Specialties P.O. Box 700 Hightstown New Jersey USA Tel: Fax: EUROPE Elementis Specialties De Kleetlaan 12a 1831 Diegem Belgium Tel: