Essential Elements of Rheology Control

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1 Essential Elements of Rheology Control Richard Giles AkzoNobel Technical Service and Development Manager Europe, Middle East, Africa and India In-cosmetics Barcelona 2015

2 Outline Today s trends BALANCE RCF polymer Luxurious feel in difficult to thicken systems AMAZE XT polymer Suspension of air and beads STRUCTURE XL rheology modifier Soft powder feel in emulsions STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier Thickening in acidic systems ELFACOS GT 282S rheology modifier Thickening across full ph range 2

3 Today s Trends and Rheology 3

4 Today s Trends Current trends are changing the way formulators think about and formulate personal care products Mild, sulfate free and low surfactant systems Engaging and exciting the consumer High visual impact Hedonic textures Naturally Derived Formulations Low ph / High ph Preservative trends / Novel hair treatments Rheology control agents are an essential part of the formulators toolkit; making it possible to craft the perfect in-use experience to fit the brand 4

5 Formulation Challenge: Sulfate Free 5

6 Sulfate Free Surfactant Systems Once a specialty niche, sulfate free systems have gone mainstream Promise Mild cleansing Color protection Softer hair Less frizz Challenges Tricky to thicken Higher cost surfactants Less lather 6

7 BALANCE RCF Polymer INCI: Acrylates Copolymer BALANCE RCF polymer is a versatile, efficient, multi-functional ingredient that provides thickening and rheology modification in a wide range of surfactant containing systems. BALANCE RCF polymer is provided as 30% active liquid-form emulsion polymer Cost effective Synergistic with salt High clarity in formulation Cold processable 7

8 Thickening Performance in a Sulfate Free System 10,000 Viscosity, cps 1, Sulfate Free System F# , ph 6.5 Viscosity measured at 25ºC, RV #5, 5 rpm % Active, wt. BALANCE RCF polymer provides effective thickening in sulfate free surfactant systems 8

9 Rheological Profile of BALANCE RCF Polymer Performance in a Sulfate Free System Viscosity, Pa.s E E E E E E E E E Shear Rate, s-1 Acrylates copolymer Polyacrylate-33 BALANCE RCF BALANCE RCF polymer shows a consistent viscosity across a wide range of shear rates 9

10 Smooth Sensations Shower and Shave ( D) 2,4% BALANCE RCF (as active) 8.8% Sulfate free surfactants (as actives) ph: ; Viscosity: 10,000-20,000 cps Smooth Sensations Shower and Shave In this product BALANCE RCF polymer provides: Luxurious hand feel Consistent smooth glide Skin protection through the whole razor stroke Fast, clean rinse Making BALANCE RCF polymer a high performing ingredient in this shower and shave formulation 10

11 Formulation Challenge: Suspension 11

12 Suspension Suspending of beads, air and functional materials can: Help create products with stunning shelf impact Create unique in-use experiences Deliver active ingredients pods E.g. moisturizing and anti-aging Deliver exfoliation Incorporating and stabilizing these materials requires extra performance on the part of the rheology modifier Behaving like a solid at low shear and breaking fast in-use 12

13 AMAZE XT Polymer INCI: Dehydroxanthan Gum A 100 % natural polymer with thickening and suspending capabilities Gives a natural look and feel to the product Provides strong emulsion stability Highly efficient thickening Cold processable, ph 4 10 Ecocert 13

14 AMAZE XT Polymer Product Properties Physically modified xanthan gum Proprietary treatment process Free flowing powder Anionic Aqueous Solution Properties ph ~ 5 Viscosity, 1% solution (cps) ~ Viscosity, 2% solution (cps) ~

15 Product Solution Properties: Suspending Capability AMAZE XT polymer also has a high elastic/storage modulus (G ), indicating good suspending ability Systems formulated with AMAZE XT polymer show stable long-term suspension even at elevated temperatures 1% AMAZE XT polymer gel with encapsulation beads and air bubbles Encapsulation beads and air bubbles remain suspended in AMAZE XT gels after 3 months in 45 C oven 15

16 Revitalizing Clean Facial Scrub ( C) 2,0% AMAZE XT (as active) 5.3% Surfactants (as actives SLS/CAPB/Decyl glucoside) ph: 5,5 6,5; Viscosity: 45,000-55,000 cps Revitalizing Clean Facial Scrub with milled Apricot seed In this product AMAZE XT polymer provides: Outstanding suspension stability Shear-thinning for smooth application Rinses fast to a silky after-feel AMAZE XT polymer is a top performing rheology modifier for suspension of beads, air and functional materials 16

17 Formulation Challenge: Novel Textures 17

18 Textures Beauty product formulators on an endless quest to find experiences that will surprise and delight the consumer 18

19 Novel Textures with STRUCTURE XL Rheology Modifier INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Modified corn starch STRUCTURE XL rheology modifier provides multi-functional performance as: Soft, cushioned in-use texture Conditioned after feel Thickening Emulsion stabilization Other features Naturally derived Cold processable, broad compatibility, ph

20 Revitalizing Hydration In-Shower Lotion ( ) 2,0% STRUCTURE XL 7,0% Oils and fatty alcohols (Olive/Cetearyl alcohol/cocoa butter/jojoba/shea) ph: 5,0 6,0; Viscosity: 15,000-25,000 cps Revitalizing Hydration In-Shower Lotion In this formula STRUCTURE XL rheology modifier provides: Thickening Soft, cushioned texture A silky, conditioned after feel Increased emulsion stability STRUCTURE XL rheology modifier is multifunctional Delivering conditioning, in-use experience, thickening and aiding emulsion stabilization in one additive 20

21 Formulation Challenge: Low ph 21

22 Low ph Systems Trends and market presures Low ph systems necessary for many key benefits Acne treatment Anti-bacterial Anti-dandruff Tanning Consumer concerns Parabens, MIT/BIT and formaldehyde donors alpha-hydroxy acids and benzoic acid becoming the preservatives of choice But thickening and stabilizing these formulations can be a challenge 22

23 STRUCTURE PLUS Rheology Modifier INCI: Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier is an acid-swellable associative thickener for use in hard-to-thicken personal care formulations Designed to thicken and stabilize formulations in the low ph range Provides clear, thick gels even in the presence of cationic ingredients Also effective in neutral region with surfactants Exhibits shear-thinning behavior Provides suspension capabilities ph range

24 STRUCTURE PLUS Rheology Modifier STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier is a patented associative acrylate-based technology. Supplied as aqueous emulsion Low viscosity 20% solids ph ~ 8 ph activated Lactic, citric, glycolic, phosphoric acids Surfactant activated 24

25 Revitalizing Treatment Salicylic Acid Cleanser ( C) 2,0% STRUCTURE PLUS (as active); 14,0 % Surfactants (as actives AOS/CAPB) 2,0% Salicylic acid ph: 3,75 4,25; Viscosity: 15,000-25,000 cps Revitalizing Treatment Salicylic Acid Cleanser This refreshing and clean-rinsing face and body wash helps fight breakouts from head to toe In this product, STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier provides: Low ph viscosity build Shear thinning for smooth application Power to suspend and stabilize STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier An effective thickener for hard to thicken, low ph and cationic containing systems 25

26 Formulation Challenge: Clarity At A Wide ph Range 26

27 ELFACOS GT 282S Rheology Modifier INCI: Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol ELFACOS GT 282S rheology modifier is derived from polyalkylene glycol and functions as a unique associative thickener for cleansing systems Cetyl/Stearyl Hydrophobic group PEG 60 Hydrophilic link Myristyl Hydrophobic group 27

28 ELFACOS GT 282S Rheology Modifier INCI: Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol Compatibility with a wide range of anionic and amphoteric ingredients Effective thickener for sulfate free systems In formulations it is thick in the bottle and on hand and then spreads easily Clarity in surfactant systems Cost effective in formulation Synergistic with salts ph

29 Thickening Performance with Salt in a Sulfate Free System* 30,000 25,000 Viscosity, cps 20,000 15,000 10,000 5, Sodium Chloride, wt% 0% ELFACOS GT 282S 1.5% ELFACOS GT 282S * 7% Lauryl Betaine /3.5% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 29

30 Revitalizing Clarity Shampoo ( C) 3,0% ELFACOS GT 282S 12,5% Surfactants (as actives DLESS/SLS/CAPB/SCI) ph: 5,0 6,0; Viscosity: 7,000-11,000 cps Revitalizing Clarity Shampoo A purifying shampoo of very high quality In this product, ELFACOS GT 282S rheology modifier provides: Stable clear formulation Thick luxurious hand feel Smooth, shear thinning in use ELFACOS GT 282S rheology modifier A thickening agent with very broad formulation compatibility from ph

31 Wrap-up 31

32 Elegant and Effective Rheology Control AkzoNobel Rheology Modifiers give such benefits as: BALANCE RCF polymer Luxurious feel in difficult to thicken systems AMAZE XT polymer Suspension of air and beads STRUCTURE XL rheology modifier Soft powder feel in emulsions STRUCTURE PLUS rheology modifier Thickening in acidic systems ELFACOS GT 282S rheology modifier Thickening across full ph range 32

33 Thank You! Essential Elements of Rheology Control

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