the true scent of the Australian bush discover how glycerine can enhance your natural skincare products cosmetic products packaging & labelling

Transcription

1 SPRING EDITION 2015 the true scent of the Australian bush discover how glycerine can enhance your natural skincare products cosmetic products packaging & labelling

2 THIS ISSUE spring SPRING EDITION 2015 Spring is here! With its new blossoms and sparkling rays of sun, it is the perfect time to start a new project or try a new ingredient. This issue of Oily is packed with information that will help motivate you into action. Harvest features an incredible Australian essential oil that is one of a kind. Fragonia oil has a fresh aroma that is everything the bush has to offer in a single scent; we promise it will become your new favourite! Plus in Up Close we look at Glycerine, a versatile cosmetic ingredient that is widely used but rarely discussed; turn to page 16 to learn more. Product packaging and labelling is also reviewed as we help to navigate you through some of the regulations for cosmetics here in Australia. Finally, read about the hard working group of teachers OHO is collaborating with in the Nepalese highlands. Their work is truly inspirational. Lucille Wilson, Editor Spring cover: Wheatgerm Triticum vulgare Cold pressed from the small germ inside the wheat kernel, Wheatgerm oil is rich in vitamins A and E. Suitable for anti-ageing formulations to help minimise fine lines and wrinkles. The oil offers a nourishing emollient action and is great for dry or cracked skin conditions. Available in Conventional Refined grade. Visit for more information. 04 Harvest: Fragonia oil (Australia) Uniquely Australian & truly delightful 12 Up Close: Glycerine A natural humectant to enhance your skincare products 16 SME Forum: How to package & label cosmetic products A guide to Australian regulations 20 News: One Health Organisation Helping those in need in Nepal 22 Product Specification: Fragonia oil (Australia) Specification for manufacturers 23 Formulation: Gently scented cream cleanser Featuring Fragonia oil (Australia)

3 HARVEST Fragonia a unique scent of Australia Dedicated farmers produce the one-of-a-kind Fragonia essential oil. In the idyllic temperate climate of south west Western Australia the Agonis fragrans species naturally thrives. The region s environment has been the perfect home for the native plant for centuries and today it supports a growing essential oil industry. Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply source has been a leading Australian essential oil producer for almost 20 years and Fragonia essential oil is one of their most distinctive speciality products. > Fragonia blossoms have a distinct cluster formation that makes them visually appealing. White petals and soft pink centres made this Australian native flower popular in local and international floral bouquet markets. 4 5

4 HARVEST Australian Native with Great Potential The Agonis species of plant has long been familiar flora in the south west region of the continent. Whilst there is no formal documented use of the plant by the local indigenous community, it is possible that it was utilised in traditional medicine. A common medicinal technique included warming leaves until vapour appeared and placing them directly on wounds, as a poultice, to encourage healthy healing. Its first commercial use was for the cut flower industry as its white blossoms were popular in both fresh and dried bouquets. At this time it was simply known as coarse tea tree or winter flowering tea tree and its potential for essential oil production was still unrecognised. It wasn t until the mid 1990 s that attention turned to the possibility of aromatherapeutic applications for the plant and whilst the evidence was there to suggest great potential, the risks were high and success uncertain for the farmers considering investing in a test crop. Thankfully, in the year 2000, an industry article piqued the interest of a small farming family who were keen to cultivate a new plant, and with this the Fragonia industry was born. Clockwise from top left: The bushes grow to 1½ metres tall before they are ready for harvesting. Mechanical harvesting enables accuracy and efficiency which is important for farmers to streamline their production output. Fragonia flowers begin to appear in January and continue blooming through until May. In the hot summer months tape irrigation is effective in delivering water directly to the roots of the plant. First Fragonia Plantation The very first Fragonia plantation was a trial of just 5,000 seedlings. These plants were painstakingly cared for and overseen by a dedicated family whose commitment to the land was unwavering. The success of the trial resulted in positive interest in the new essential oil and recognition from the Australian Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation (RIRDC). With the research support of the RIRDC and industry specialists, the family farmers invested in a further 10,000 seedlings and proceeded to develop the first commercial plantation specifically for essential oil production. > 6 7

5 HARVEST The common name, Fragonia, was chosen by these first farmers as it represented the gentle aroma of the foliage and the essential oil, whilst also having links to the botanical name. The wise decision to trade mark the name Fragonia was important as there are a number of different chemotypes in the Agonis species family that have significantly different constituent profiles. The trade mark now guarantees the consistency and quality of the oil in the global market. Commercial Fragonia Cultivation Today, there are 4 hectares of land dedicated to the farming of Fragonia plants. The farms are well established and are a pivotal part of local industry. The lignotuberous shrubs can survive extremely harsh conditions. They produce sturdy flowering branches with fine, firm leaves and grow to around 1½ metres tall. There are many elements involved in the success of the plantation. The soil type is very similar to the natural land areas where the plant is native and sophisticated irrigation techniques ensure the roots receive their required water with minimal evaporation. Weeds are controlled through a number of methods including recycling biomass to suppress invasive growth. Plus, as the farming region is adjoined with preserved wetlands, there is an abundance of natural birdlife that helps to keep pests under control. As the plantation is now deep-rooted there is little need for a continual planting cycle but natural attrition can occur and typically, a newly planted seedling takes months to be ready for the initial harvest. The annual harvest is undertaken from October through to December dependant on the climatic conditions. A mechanical forage harvester is used to cut the stems and foliage to just above ground level. This plant material is collected in trailer bins and delivered directly for distillation processing. All plant matter is processed through the efficient steam distillation method of > Clockwise from top left: Harvesting commences in October through to December depending on the climatic conditions. All the aerial plant material is utilised for steam distillation. The forage harvester cuts the shrubs to around 30cm above the ground. Regeneration continues for 12 months until the next harvest. Fragonia is susceptible to frost so it is important to ensure harvesting occurs early enough to allow the tender new growth to mature before winter. 8 9

6 HARVEST The fresh, pleasing aroma of Fragonia oil encapsulates the true essence of the Australian bush. Fragonia oil is a perfect addition to a gel based cleanser, shower gel or hand wash product, or an Australiana aromatic essential oil blend. extraction. The distillate is condensed and separated to produce the 100% pure Fragonia essential oil. The oil yield is relatively low at just 1% which means 100 kilograms of plant material is required to produce 1kg of essential oil. The remaining spent organic matter is recycled through the farm as compost or used as mulch. Fragonia Essential Oil The fresh, pleasing aroma of Fragonia oil encapsulates the true essence of the Australian bush. It is bright and vibrant with sweet cineole tones that are somewhat reminiscent to eucalyptus, but partnered with a faint dryness and hints of spice. It will lift a blend of citrus and woods to a new level of scented bliss. The constituent profile of the essential oil makes it an appealing product for many aromatherapists. It offers emotionally balancing properties that can help align the body and bring peace and harmony to the spirit. Characteristically high in a-pinene and 1.8 cineole it can help support the respiratory system and has strong antiseptic and anti-microbial properties. Plus the oil s linalool content offers a calming action that is ideal for promoting restful sleep. With a gentle cleansing action Fragonia is a perfect choice for natural skincare products to help maintain a healthy complexion. When incorporated in a cream or foaming cleanser, the skin purifying benefits will be amplified and it is a great alternative to tea tree or other traditional antibacterial ingredients for hand and body wash products. It is also a great addition to massage oil blends as it can offer relief from muscular aches and pains. Its mild nature makes it a suitable essential oil to use with people of all ages including children and the elderly. 1 Try Fragonia essential oil today, we know it will become your new favourite. For a bulk quote or more information contact our sales team on or sales@seoc.com.au. 11

7 UP CLOSE glycerine; intensify moisturisation naturally Choose this vegetable derived humectant to make your natural products even more effective. Why We Love Glycerine Glycerine is one of the most popular humectants used in natural and organic cosmetic formulations due to it providing multifunction benefits to the end product. At an aesthetic level, it will improve the glossy appearance of a cream, lotion or body butter and it helps increase spreadability on the skin. One of the most significant skin benefits glycerine provides, is its ability to retain moisture. It helps to balance the skin s natural moisturing factor (NMF) through its humectant effect. By absorbing moisture from the environment it can help improve skin hydration and thus strengthen the skin barrier. On an intercellular level it helps to minimise dryness and slows the signs of ageing by directly supporting consistent cell maturation. Therefore, a healthy complexion and smooth skin texture can be achieved. > Keep your complexion looking soft and supple. Glycerine s natural humectant action helps to maintain optimal moisture levels in your skin. 12

8 UP CLOSE Glycerine is also a valuable ingredient in soaps for adding extra moisturisation, and in haircare products, as it can help to smooth frizzy, dry hair and defend against damage caused by styling and colouring. Gycerine is also useful as a solvent of active ingredients that are not necessarily soluble in water, and it is an excellent base for natural plant extracts. Whether used in a tincture or a hydro-glyceric form it has a natural extractive action which increases the potency of the finished product. Other than in cosmetics, Glycerine is regularly used in the food industry as a natural sweetener, a preservative and a thickening agent. In pharmaceuticals it is often incorporated in cough syrups, lubricants, gel capsules and other medicinal preparations. It is also very useful in personal care items such as toothpaste and mouthwash. What is Glycerine? Glycerine, also known as Glycerol or Glycerin, is a sugar alcohol compound which is naturally present in the form of triglycerides in all lipid fats and oils. It is a clear, viscous liquid that has a syrupy appearance. Odourless and colourless, with a mild sweet taste, it was first discovered in the late 1700 s by Swedish chemist, Carl Wilhelm Scheele. Its name was derived from the Greek word glykys which means sweet. It is soluble in water and alcohol and is extremely stable with a very high boiling point. Liquid at room temperature, it can crystalise slightly in the cold but will easily liquefy without any degradation. How is Glycerine Produced? Vegetable oils such as soy, corn or palm are used to produce natural glycerine. The oil is subjected to a process called hydrolysis whereby the fats and oils are broken down into esters using water at very high temperatures. This process sees the creation of a sweet water that contains crude glycerine. Impurities are removed through evaporation and distillation resulting in a light yellow coloured product. This is further treated with Carbon (CO2) and finally filtered to produce the clear, colourless, high purity glycerine. Glycerine can also be manufactured through synthetic processing of propene which is a petroleum derivative. Sydney Essential Oil Co. does not stock this grade. How Do You Use Glycerine in Cosmetics? Typically, glycerine is included in the water phase when manufacturing oil and water emulsions such as lotions, creams and body butters and it is also a popular ingredient in haircare. The percentage used can vary based on the formulation but 5% is an effective amount that will achieve positive results for both the skin feel and the product appearance. During the saponification process in soap making, the carrier oils naturally release their glycerine content, but adding extra glycerine prior to curing or including it in your melt and pour formulation will increase the moisturising properties for the skin. Certified Organic Grade SEOC s Certified Organic Glycerine is certified through Australian Certified Organic (ACO) and United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) standards. It is sourced sustainably, guaranteed non-gmo, free from pesticide or herbicide exposure and can be included in formulations that are being developed to meet organic certification requirements. BP and USP Grade SEOC s conventional and naturally derived Glycerine is graded according to the British Pharmacopoeia (BP) and the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) ensuring that it is of high quality and suitable for use in pharmaceutical processing. These grades ensure that the product adheres to a strictly regulated specification and is a reflection of the high standard of efficacy, purity and consistency of the ingredient. 1 To place an order or request a quote contact our sales team at sales@seoc.com.au or call

9 SME FORUM & Packaging Labelling cosmetic products guide to australian regulations The packaging and labelling of personal care and cosmetic products is an important component of the product development process. In Australia, many governing bodies and their specific regulatory requirements need to be followed. Some elements are mandatory; others are optional and relevant when considering your total brand message. So, to help you to navigate more easily, we have compiled the following points for you to consider in your planning. SELECTING YOUR PACKAGING Aesthetics and the final presentation of your product are key product development considerations. Shapes, colours, graphics and the like all communicate something about your brand, and this can be as creative or unique as you wish. But when it comes to choosing your packaging, it is important to select bottles, jars, tubes, gift packs, etc. that are appropriate for the product s size. As using packaging that misleads the consumer, such as giving the appearance of a larger size, is not permitted under fair trading legislation. It is also a requirement that your packaging be compatible with your product. The main thing to consider here is how it will be transported and stored. Varying environmental conditions may mean that your finished product is exposed to a variety of handlers and a range of temperatures. So it s important that your packaging protects the product from spoilage so it is presented in a good and stable condition that is safe for use by the end-consumer. LABELLING YOUR PRODUCT Product labelling serves many purposes including communicating your brand messages, informing the end-user about your product and it must also reflect appropriate regulatory requirements. The label content can be broken down into the following components; > Cosmetic products are recognised having an action on the epidermal layer. Moisturisers help to protect and maintain the skin in good condition

10 SME FORUM Efficacy Claims: Products sold as cosmetics are required to meet strict regulations in relation to the type of claims that can be made. Mandatory standards, issued by the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC), state that cosmetic products are recognised as benefiting only the epidermal layer of the skin. Cosmetic actions include cleansing, deodorising, perfuming, protecting or maintaining the body in good condition through moisturising or exfoliating. Therefore, any statements made relating to the efficacy of your product should be limited to such cosmetic actions. Alternatively, if you wish to make claims that are of a therapeutic nature, the product cannot be marketed as a cosmetic, instead it becomes a complementary medicine. An application can be made to the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), who will assess and once approved, provide a listing or registration number that must be included on your label to support your claims. All approved therapeutic products can be found on the official Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). Origin Claims: Product of Australia and Australian Made claims are regulated by the Trade Practices Act. In order to claim Product of Australia, all significant ingredients and all or nearly all manufacturing must be carried out in Australia. Whereas, Made in Australia can be utilised if the product has undergone significant alteration and the majority of the manufacturing costs have occurred in Australia. Of the two, the latter is more commonly achievable as many ingredients are often sourced internationally. Organic Claims: Products claiming to be Certified Organic must be registered with a recognised certifying body, such as Australian Certified Organic (ACO), and the full scope of associated regulatory requirements must be adhered to. Pack Size: The size of your product must be displayed on the label in a metric measure. This measurement must be calculated and stated excluding the packaging. Skin creams in jars may be expressed by mass weight (milligrams, grams, kilograms) or by volume (millilitres, litres). Liquids, such as carrier oils and similar may be expressed by volume up to 5L, or either volume or mass if greater than 5L. For full guidelines refer to National Trade Measurement Regulations. It is also important to ensure that the weight or volume indicated on your label is the minimum amount of product supplied in the pack. Some international policies allow a tolerance, but Australian regulations require that if the product states 100g, the minimum measure must be 100g. This means at the time of manufacture, incorporating allowances for the natural evaporation of water for example is good practice. Ingredient Listing: To enable consumers to review the contents and be well informed at the time of purchase, it is mandatory for all cosmetics to include a clear, legible, ingredients list either directly on the product, attached to the product, or on the display unit if there is no packaging e.g. soap bars. The ingredients are to be stated in their standard English name or the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name (INCI) which often includes the Latin Botanical name. Trade names may not be used. Ingredients in concentration of 1% or greater, must be listed in descending order. Followed by, ingredients of less than 1%, listed in any order. Then colour additives in any order. Another piece of information relating to ingredients that can be included is an allergen listing. Whilst not mandatory in Australia at present, there are international markets that require these details to be on the product. If you are intending to export it would be appropriate to review the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) standards as essential oils can contain constituents that are classified as allergens when they reach a specific concentration. Directions for Use: Even if your product is self explanatory it is recommended that you provide the end-user with specific directions for use, including appropriate safety warnings such as not to be taken or keep out of reach of children. Contact Details: To enable the consumer the ability to contact the supplier or manufacturer of a product, it is a mandatory requirement to include your company name and street address on the product label. In Australia, a PO Box is not adequate detail. Imported goods must also include the Australian address of the distributor/importer before it can be sold. Over-labelling the product is sufficient in this instance, but the original country of origin must still be visible. Expiry Dates & Batch Numbers: Are not mandatory. However, they are certainly a recommended inclusion to support consumer confidence and safe use of your product. Other: Optional details can include adding your website address, any sustainability information about your packaging or a barcode for easy retail sale. CONSIDERING THE PLANET On a final note, it s worth keeping in mind how your product will impact our environment. Selecting packaging that is biodegradable or recyclable is not only beneficial for the planet but it is also a great way to promote your brand s ethical stance. Consumers are very watchful for packaging waste. So, avoiding the use of excessive non-recyclable plastics or nonessential materials will demonstrate your brand is environmentally considerate. 1 This article has been prepared as a guideline only and it does not reflect the full content of Australian regulations. Whilst all care has been taken to present correct and current information, further detail and periodic updates may be obtained at the following websites: accc.gov.au, aco.net.au, comlaw.gov.au, ifraorg.org, nicnas.gov.au, packagingcovenant.org.au, pca.org.au, tga.gov.au

11 NEWS Children s Learning Access Program (CLAP) was the creation of Austalian teachers Hugh O Toole and Jennifer Darley; and their dream of providing the village community of Nepaledanda, Nepal with a sustainable school house, recently became a reality. Nepaledanda, located in the Bhojpur district, is only accessible by foot and is a difficult trek from Kathmandu. Its remoteness has a great impact on the villagers, as their local services are limited. In the case of primary-aged schooling, parents have faced the difficult decision of sending their children away to gain an education, or keeping them home with the family in a community that had no school facility. CLAP initiated the project to build a school with the involvement of OHO and two local Nepalese teachers, Bhupal and Sanam Thapa, who returned to the village to help with improving the learning conditions. A two-storey structure was built using many locally sourced materials and furniture commissioned from rural carpenters, to ensure the local industry benefited from the project. The school is also used as a public building for the village, where support is provided to the local women on a variety of health issues the community faces. One such issue is caused by trekking long distances on foot without adequate footwear. As a result, it is common for feet to become cracked and painful. This can be debilitating and often incapacitate villagers for long periods of time. To provide some relief for this, a medicated foot balm was formulated for CLAP by the Aromatherapy Practitioners at OHO. Then the team at SEOC lent a hand by producing the balms which made their way to Nepaledanda in January this year. The feedback from the village has since been overwhelmingly positive, with many people experiencing significant relief and feeling supported in their health and wellbeing. Soon after these projects were completed, the April and May 2015 earthquakes hit Nepal and caused widespread destruction. And sadly the village of Nepaledanda did not escape unharmed. Yet despite the surrounding devastation, thankfully their new school building remained intact and was used to provide temporary shelter for people who lost their homes in the disaster. Our ongoing thoughts and support go out to the people of Nepaledanda and our praise and admiration for the teams at OHO and CLAP is at the highest level. Thank you for all that you do, your dedication to improving lives and helping others is truly inspirational. 1 To find out more, visit onehealthorganisation.org Clockwise from above: The entire community in Nepaledanda benefits from the CLAP project, from elders to young children. Arduous tasks undertaken without modern equipment or sufficient footwear leads to debilitating ailments.patchouli oil offers vital healing properties and is a key ingredient in the OHO foot balm. Life Changing Moments One Health Organisation (OHO) collaborated with two great in Nepal Australian teachers on a special mission with wonderful results

12 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FORMULATION Gently Scented Cream Cleanser Performance: light-weight cream cleanser, ideal for normal to dry skin types. Appearance: pale cream coloured emulsion with light viscosity. Aroma: fresh, clean aroma with mild lemony notes. Stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice Recommended use: apply to skin and cleanse in circular motion. Rinse off. Product Botanical Name: Origin: Appearance: Colour: Odour: Plant part used: Extraction method: Fragonia oil (Australia) Physio-chemical properties Specific 20 C: Refractive 20 C: Optical rotation: to Flash Point: 65 C in closed cup Oil components 1.8 Cineole Typical Analysis 20% to 36% a-pinene 20% to 35% Linalool 5% to 15% a-terpineol 2% to 12% Terpinene-4-ol 1.5% to 8% p-cymene Trace to 10% d-limonene Trace to 3.5% Agonis fragrans Australia Clear free flowing liquid Colourless to pale yellow Fresh cineolic odour with slightly spicy cinnamon tonality and sweet balsamic undertones Leaves and lateral branches Steam distillation Phase Raw Material % w/w A Orange Blossom Infused water 75.3 B Emulsifying wax 3.2 Almond Sweet Pure oil 7.5 Watermelon Seed Refined oil 7 C Natural Tocopherol 50 (Vitamin E 50) 1 Fragonia oil (Australia) 0.25 Lemon oil (Australia) 0.25 Almond Sweet Pure oil 0.5 D Calendula extract Certified Organic 2 Leucidal 2 Phytocide Elderberry 1 Method of Manufacture 1. Heat Phase A to a maximum of 70 C. 2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70 C. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. Continue mixing until cooled to 45 C. 4. Add Phase C and mix well. 5. Add Phase D and mix well. 6. Continue to gently mix until cooled to room temperature. 7 Package in appropriate bottles. For ingredients contact Sydney Essential Oil Co % w/w Other Information Packaging: As required. Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. Handling: Well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition. Shelf Life: Three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions). Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof. For more information contact Sydney Essential Oil Co

13 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. ABN Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: F: E: sales@seoc.com.au Order online Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Copyright 2015 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of-Custody certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view online. If you d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.