MODEST FASHION THE INDUSTRY S BEST KEPT SECRET

Transcription

1 MODEST FASHION THE INDUSTRY S BEST KEPT SECRET

2 Modest Fashion is a billion-dollar industry and one of fashion s fastest growing sectors. Cover Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017 Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017 UNCOVERING MODEST M O D E ST FAS H I O N : T h e I n d u s t r y s B e s t K e p t S e c r e t Modest Fashion. It s a phrase that s been gaining momentum in fashion s lexicon for nearly a decade but which so far, seems to have eluded the attention of many of the mainstream players. Still perceived by some as a burgeoning collective, Modest Fashion is in fact a billion-dollar industry and one of fashion s fastest growing sectors. As a creative agency who have been driving desire for some of the world s best-loved fashion and lifestyle brands for over 15 years, we were intrigued as to what it meant for the clients we work with every day. Who were the women behind the movement? And why had attempts to court them by the big brands failed so far? To learn more, we set up a new strategic division, M:LIFE, dedicated to understanding the lifestyles of the Muslim population fuelling this economy in the UK. We went directly to the source, conducting a study of over 500 Muslim women up and down the country to understand what Modest Fashion really meant to the people consuming it every day. We delved into their shopping habits, mapped out their customer journeys and found out what made them tick, and click, online. What we discovered was a group of women who had been left to their own devices when it came to fashion. They felt ignored and misunderstood but far from being disengaged, were eager for brands to recognise them. We re calling Modest Fashion The Industry s Best Kept Secret and are on a mission to help brands understand how to connect with the Muslim women that fuel it, in a relevant and authentic way. Arif Miah Strategist, ODD 02

3 WAKE U P. 03 IT S THE FAITH AND MODEST ECONOMY A SNAPSHOT: Modest Fashion is one of the industry s fastest growing sectors. Globally, it s valued at over $270bn, and is predicted to hit $360bn by To put that into perspective, it ranks behind only the US and China in terms of total fashion market size. In the UK alone, British Muslims are fuelling a fashion and lifestyle economy with a predicted value of over 35bn. And whilst our high street might be flailing, pure play modest brands such as Aab are experiencing unprecedented growth, with YOY sales up +80%. FAS HION ARE N T MUTUALLY Female, 25, London

4 04 WHAT IS IS: Modest means shoulders, arms and legs are covered. Female, 41, Birmingham In reality, there s no clear-cut definition of Modest Fashion but broadly it s clothing that is loose-fitting, non-transparent, and covers your arms, shoulders and legs. Modest Fashion should be normal clothes that we normally wear. Female, 18, Leeds SO WHAT ACTUALLY IS MODEST FASHION? Muslim women are normal women. They work, socialise, exercise and relax, just like everyone else. Modest Collections should have the variety and functionality for all of life s activities. 97% of Muslim women consider modesty when shopping for fashion. The current high-street definition of Modest Fashion is flawed; it s neither modest nor fashion(able). It s time to set the record straight. Due to their need to cover, fashion is so much more than just a religious necessity. It s a huge part of a Muslim woman s identity and self-expression. WHAT IS ISN T: It s frustrating when brands release a Modest Collection that has nothing modest about it. Who told them random slits and plunging necklines were modest? Female, 23, London Plunging necklines; sheer fabrics; slits; figure-hugging designs - none of these are appropriate for a Modest Collection. They call it a Modest Fashion line, but it s as if they think Muslims don t want to be fashionable. Female, 24, London Modest Fashion doesn t mean staid, uninspiring clothing, it follows the same trends as the regular fashion calendar. 63% of Muslim women said high street brands appropriate cultural dress, rather than catering to actual fashion needs. Modest Fashion does not mean appropriating cultural clothing. It s not just burkas and maxi dresses; it s regular fashionable items that meet a few, very important modest requirements.

5 05 WHY IS THE HIGH STREET BEING LEFT BEHIND? GNORED 86% of Muslim women feel ignored by high street fashion brands. Ignored and misunderstood, British Muslims are leaving the high street behind. They re turning to Muslim-owned brands such as Inayah and Modanisa for their fashion fixes as they search for modest clothing that is actually fit for purpose: i.e. modest and fashionable. 3 in 4 Muslim women put products back when shopping because they do not meet their requirements. Online, they re driving a thriving community of influencers, stylists and bloggers who have sprung up in place of the traditional retailers - dispelling the myth that Muslim women aren t interested in fashion. In fact, searches for Modest Fashion are booming, with social platform Pinterest recording a 500% increase in the first four months of 2018 in the UK. 93% of Muslim women say a modest line would encourage them to visit a store. From searching for halal restaurants, to checking the back of sweet packets for animal products or regularly having to put back clothes they like in-store because they re not fit for purpose, Western Muslims are used to having to make do. to be honest we re so under catered for, even if Lidl launched a modest line, I d definitely check it out Female, 21, London But instead of feeling disaffected they are eager for brands to acknowledge them and their shopping needs. No matter what the brand, as long as its halal (permissible), Muslims are open to a conversation.

6 Image Credit: NIKE Image Credits: H&M 06 SOME BRANDS ARE ALREADY SEEING A HALO EFFECT The Nike hijab made me interested in the brand. It made me feel Nike was being inclusive. And showing a boxing hijabi made me feel proud. Female, 20, Manchester It comes as no surprise that one of the world s most innovative brands, Nike, is already driving desire amongst this demographic. The sportswear giant released their Pro Hijab in 2017 to much applause, and retailers including Uniqlo, H&M and ASOS have also received high praise for their Modest fashion efforts, which finally made Muslim women part of the mainstream conversation. And these efforts resonated well beyond the target demographic; creating a halo effect on the rest of the brand and driving overall sales and perception. But often products are missing the mark: Muslim women are looking for a solution, not a stereotype. And whilst they have been delighted by the big brands efforts to engage, many pointed out an evident lack of understanding when it came to the needs of Muslim women. From H&M s Modest Collection which was reminiscent of cultural and ethnic dress, to ASOS Ramadan Edit which featured crop tops and revealing skirts, and even Nike s hijab which lacked functionality due to its fit - it s clear there s still much headway to be made for brands to truly understand and cater to the Muslim consumer. H&M s modest range, I wouldn t buy anything. It was an Asian inspired collection that wasn t actually modest Female, 31, Bradford

7 07 SO HOW CAN YOUR B R AND BECOME MODEST -READY? The current landscape presents a golden opportunity for retailers to get ahead of the curve and position themselves as the brand that understands the needs of Muslim consumers. The first three insights from our study can help you understand how: FOREVER NOT FLEETING For Muslims, their faith is 365 days a year. Make your efforts more than just a token conversation. CURATION NOT COLLECTION Take the onus off Muslim women to be their own stylists. Make your brand accessible to them by curating your current product lines. Muslim women spend 16% more on fashion than the average British consumer. Modest Fashion isn t another passing trend or fad. It s a way of dressing committed to by faith, that remains with the wearer for a lifetime. 78% of Muslim women said a Modest Collection would encourage them to purchase more. As a demographic, Muslims are growing in affluence and mobility and have a much higher propensity to shop than the average British woman. And whilst they may have passed under the radar of many brands until now, their size and spending power means they can no longer be ignored. NORMAL NOT OTHER It s time to think about the role of religious diversity and how you can empower Muslim women with your comms.

8 Image Credit: SØLVE SUNDSBØ - Allure Magazine 2017 M O D E ST FAS H I O N : T h e I n d u s t r y s B e s t K e p t S e c r e t FOREVER NOT FLEETING WE RE NOT JUST MUSLIMS AT R AMADAN. Female, 19, Manchester To successfully connect with any demographic, your communications need to become part of their everyday lives. Brands are becoming aware of increased spends during Ramadan, when Muslims drive footfall surges of up to 47% as they shop for Eid. To coincide with this month, the biggest in their religious calendar, retailers are producing specific Ramadan collections and edits. If brands target us only at Ramadan, it s clear they just want to make money from us and not really engage with us Female, 19, Manchester But with the majority of Muslims feeling ignored by high street brands, token conversations such as these do little to drive long-term brand loyalty and can, in the short-term, leave Muslims feeling disenfranchised and used purely for financial gain. For brands to truly connect with this demographic, they must learn how to extend the conversation beyond the month of Ramadan and engage them with their holistic marketing activities throughout the year. 08

9 09 IT TAKES ME AGES CURATION NOT COLLECTION TO FIND A TRENDY SHIRT THAT DOESN T ACCENTUATE MY In the absence of readily available Modest Fashion on the high street, Muslim women have had to become their own stylists. To create a Modest look, they ve got used to combining multiple items and sometimes even resort to alterations to make them suitable. 1 in 2 women resorted to purchasing from the men s department to find suitable clothing in the last 12 months. This makes their customer journey considerably longer than that of the typical shopper, and is where social media has come into its own for the Muslim community. This difficult path to purchase has birthed a booming collective of bloggers and influencers who have given a voice to Muslim women and helped them navigate the world of fashion through styling tips and advice. Catering to this group is not just about producing specific modest lines - advice on how to style existing products in a modest way is a great place to start. Brands should consider how they can use the channel mix and external partners to achieve this. BODY, SO I FIND MYSELF SPENDING HOURS LOOKING FOR DIFFERENT ITEMS THAT CAN WORK TOGETHER. Female, 23, Leeds

10 Image Credit: Zaheera Mohammed 10 WE DON T WANT TO FEEL DIFFERENT FROM EVERYONE ELSE, WE JUST WANT TO FIT IN. NORMAL NOT OTHER For years, Muslim women have been subjected to a false mainstream narrative of a downtrodden, oppressed woman who doesn t want to integrate with society. But they re no longer willing to accept this misrepresentation and expect brands to reflect them in a real and authentic way alongside everybody else. We re made out to be this other category that supposedly doesn t integrate Female, 22, Leeds In the past, brands have compromised their efforts through casting errors which failed to embrace the majority of Muslim women who in the UK are mainly from BAME backgrounds. Their minimal representation in the big ad campaigns has also done little to dispel feelings of ostracism. As brands navigate fashion s new and long-awaited era of diversity and inclusion, it s time to consider the role that religious diversity has to play. They must consider how to represent Muslims in a way that avoids stereotypes and makes them part of the mainstream narrative. Female, 19, Birmingham

11 11 This summary uncovers the first three insights from our research into Modest Fashion. The full M:LIFE workshop provides a deep-dive into all the findings from our study on the lifestyles of British Muslim women and how they shop. From their mindset, motivations and purchase decisions, to their discovery process, obstacles and needs. For more information, or to understand how we can help your brand become Modestready, contact Hope Abel at hope.abel@oddlondon.com M LIFE About M:LIFE: M:LIFE is a strategic division that advises brands on how to drive desire amongst Muslim consumers in an informed and authentic way. It is the latest offering from ODD, a fashion and lifestyle creative agency with over 15 years experience driving desire for some of the world s best-loved brands, including Dr. Martens, Eastpak, Mr Porter, F&F (Tesco), Benefit Cosmetics and Levi Strauss & Co.