3/10/2009 THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, AND WORLD WAR II C H A P T E R S I X T E E N

Transcription

1 THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, AND WORLD WAR II Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. The decade of the twenties ushered in social changes, especially for women who now found it socially acceptable to wear makeup, cut their hair short, smoke cigarettes, and drink alcohol. 2 With these changes came radical style changes for fashionable young women called Flappers. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Jazz Age Film Page to download a compatible version for your system. 3 1

2 W omencut their hair short,with the most extreme, bobs being almostidenticalto those of men. And wore rouge,lipstick,and eyebrow pencil. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Jazz Age Film Page to download a compatible version for your system. 4 Skirts gradually shortened with the shortest lengths, about 14 to 16 inches from the ground, coming in the second half of the decade. 5 Dress Lines were straight, curves were suppressed and when belts were worn or skirts joined to bodices, at the hip. 6 2

3 Undergarments maintained this straight line. 7 An alternative silhouette available to women was the Robe de Style that was inspired by wide-skirted Spanish styles of the early 1600 s and originated by designer Jeanne Lanvin. To see more details about this dress, visit the Jeanne Lanvin Dress Page at Antique & Vintage Dress Gallery. 8 Designer Gabrielle Chanel was influential in developing the simple styles of the period. 9 3

4 Typical 1920 s Styles Daytime Dress Evening Dress 10 New fabrics came into use: Rayon and Acetate 11 Pants became acceptable for women for sports and leisure time. 12 4

5 As women now went swimming, instead of merely bathing, swim suits became more practical and less encumbering. 13 Over their short hair, many women wore close-fitting cloche hats. 14 Some Typical Footwear 15 5

6 Some Important Accessories of the Period Jewelry Hand Bags Stockings 16 Tae Smhcd M[kdem Ck[la hf 1929 nlaeked bg mae Gke[m Deikellbhg, 17 Styles had begun to change, with longer skirts, defined waistlines, and more obvious curves. By the early 30 s, those changed had occurred. 18 6

7 As before, undergarments developed to support the new line. 19 Among the outstanding designers of the 1930 s was Madeleine Vionnet whose bias cut designs inspired imitations at all price levels. 20 Elsa Schiaparelli, another important designer, was know for her dramatic flair and her use of surrealist motifs. 21 7

8 Women participated in sports and in retailing. The concept of sportswear for leisure time and informal settings began to develop. 22 In the 1930 s, hair lengthened and hat styles varied. 23 Some Typical Footwear 24 8

9 Some Important Accessories of the Period Sunglasses Scarves Jewelry Handbags 25 Movies and movie stars became a fashion influence. 26 Styles gradually evolved until by the end of the decade, skirts were shorter and fuller, and shoulders were square. Early 1930 s Late 1930 s 27 9

10 As before, men s suits maintained the basic elements (jacket, vest, trousers) that differed only in subtle ways at different time periods. In the late 1930 s, a full cut called the English Drape Suit is often seen. 28 One of the first styles that originated in the lower income groups and adopted by some ethnic groups was the Zoot Suit. 29 Men s underwear added options such as boxer shorts, jockey shorts and athletic shirts

11 The British heir to the throne, the Prince of Wales, was an important influence on men s styles. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a compatible version for your system. 31 For more casual occasions men wore sports jackets and for more formal occasions, tuxedos or dinner jackets. 32 Clothing for active sports and clothing for leisure activities were available for men

12 Among the popular garments for outdoors were polo coats and trench coats or warm wool jackets. 34 Men s hair was short. Hats included straw boaters, derbies, and fedoras. 35 Examples of Typical Footwear 36 12

13 Some Popular Accessories For Men Bow Ties Neck Ties Handkerchiefs Cuff Links Wrist Watches Tie Clips 37 Clothes, now more suitable for children, often reflected styles for adults. 38 Young boys wore knickers. Older boys wore suits like those of adult men

14 When World War II began, it limited supplies of silk. Shoes containing rubber and leather were rationed. 40 Governmental regulations restricted the amount of fabric used in men s and women s garments. Click image to rotate dress Restrictions effectively froze the style lines for the duration of the war

15 Paris was cut off from America during the war. As a result the fashion press publicized American designers who continued to be an important factor in fashion even after the war. Hattie Carnegie Norman Norell Pauline Trigere Charles James Claire McCardel 43 For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection Bata Shoe Museum Bath Museum. Interesting feature of the dress of the year. Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. Philadelphia Museum Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at Cornell University Costume Collection p// p / / / / / / 9 / 9 9 Drexel University Costume Gallery Fashion Designers (Look up designers such as Adrian, Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli.) 44 For Further Study Wartime Restrictions Zoot Suits Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press

16 Image Credits Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy Photo of Flapper, Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16 Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy L'Art da la Mode, 1927 Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7 Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11 Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981 Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy c Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, 46 Image Credits Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51 The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931 Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937 Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37 Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com 1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy 's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat, Courtesy c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat, Courtesy c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, 's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, 's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, 'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, 47 The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103 Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Image Credits MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986 Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress, The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording Sound Division, at Library of Congress Motion Pictures Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986 Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Vintage Ties, Courtesy Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, 's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through, 's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, 's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ DLC Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection. "Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942 c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page