French Connections. Paris TradeShow Preview. Organizers Get Innovative Ones to Watch Buyers Wish Lists SECTION WWD

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1 SECTION WWD II Paris TradeShow Preview French Connections THE CITY OF LIGHT PREPARES FOR THE FALL ROUND OF APPAREL, ACCESSORY AND TEXTILE TRADE SHOWS. Organizers Get Innovative Ones to Watch Buyers Wish Lists The Grand Palais. PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE

2 2 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, 2011 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD PARIS TRADE SHOW PREVIEW Keep It Interesting HAVING FUN AROUND THE TRADE SHOW SCHEDULE. BY NATASHA MONTROSE, TINA ISAAC, KATYA FOREMAN AND JOELLE DIDERICH An arcade trunk by Pinel & Pinel. TRUNK SHOW The traditional trunk might evoke images of oldfashioned travel by steamer ship or propeller plane. But Fred Pinel has given a 21st-century spin to the luggage, specializing in themed luxury trunks largely destined for home use. Trunks filled with a Bang & Olufsen sound system, a foldup bike or an oldschool arcade are among private commissions conceived over the past few years by the designer, who recently opened his first Pinel & Pinel flagship, based in a courtyard on the tony Rue Royale. The boutique offers a range of ready-to-wear designs, which start at around 6,000 euros, or about $8,400 at current exchange, and a custom-order service. A range of leather goods is also on offer. Pinel hopes to open a flagship in London early next year at the latest, and a store in Los Angeles or New York is likely to follow. Pinel & Pinel 22 Rue Royale, Tel: IT S A SCREAM Norwegian symbolist painter Edvard Munch will be in the spotlight this fall at the Pompidou Center. Edvard Munch, The Modern Eye gathers previously unseen works by the artist, including sketches and sculptures, and also delves into Munch s use of film and photography. The show will run from Sept. 21 to Jan. 9. Centre Pompidou Place Georges Pompidou, Tel.: BIRD IN HAND A pretty mix of contemporary jewelry can be found at White Bird, a new boutique on the trendy Rue du Mont Thabor. The shop showcases works by jewelry designers like Cathy Waterman, who specializes in 20thcentury Scandinavian style and makes precious pieces from vintage silver and semiprecious stones. Also among the selection is Pippa Small, a young Canadian designer who has collaborated with Gucci and Chloé. Small has traveled extensively in India and mainly works with semiprecious stones. White Bird 38 Rue Mont Thabor, Tel.: HIP TO BE SQUARE Fashion folk might remember Philippe Damas from way back when he ran the perennially popular restaurant Le Square Trousseau. That venue has since passed under the Costes umbrella, but after a short break Damas returned with the more low-key Chez Philou, a good-humored traditional-style bistro with a large terrace on a quiet street off the Canal Saint Martin in the up-and-coming 10th arrondissement. Here, he offers some of the most generous market-driven fare in town, PHOTO BY PHOTO SCALA, FLORENCE including duck breast with honeyroasted eggplant, seared foie gras with figs or a rich fondant au chocolat that s billed as being for two but can easily serve four. A three-course prix fixe: 25 euros ($36) at lunch or 30 euros ($43) at dinner, excluding wine. Chez Philou 12 Rue Richerand, Tel.: GOLDEN BOY A unique exhibition of works by early Italian Renaissance painter Fra Angelico will open on Sept. 15 at the Musée Jacquemart-André. The exhibition will present around 60 works by the 15th-century artist as well as a number by his contemporaries, such as Masaccio. The Coronation of the Virgin, , from the Fra Angelico exhibition. Fra Angelico was considered to be a precursor to modern painting through his use of composition and three-dimensionality. On loan from the Uffizi, the exhibition includes The Coronation of the Virgin ( ), which was originally created for the altar of the Florentine church of Santa Maria Novella. Musée Jacquemart-André 158 Boulevard Haussmann, Tel.: Jade Parfitt and Jean-Paul Gaultier. PHOTO BY ROBERTO FRANKENBERG PHOTO OP The Royal Monceau Raffles in Paris is to host a photo exhibition honoring the 60th anniversary of Picto, a leading local photo lab. The lab has been one of the go-to printers in Europe since it opened in Running Sept. 15 through Oct. 8 in the hotel s gallery, the Art District, the show will include 43 works by legendary snappers including Henri Cartier-Bresson and André Kertész. Hotel Le Royal Monceau Raffles 37 Avenue Hoche, Tel.: SURROUND SOUND Couturier Maurizio Galante has teamed up with Tal Lancman from the speaker brand Elipson to install a sound tree in the bar of Paris COURTESY OF THE MINISTERO BENI E ATT. CULTURALI swanky Plaza Athénée hotel. The red installation with dangling spherical shapes was unveiled at the Salone Internazionale del Mobile in Milan and will stay rooted in the bar of the Plaza until October. Hotel Plaza Athénée 25 Avenue Montaigne, Tel.: ITALIAN ACCENT Frédéric Hubig-Schall, the owner of Astier and the newer upmarket épicerie/rotisserie Jeanne A next door, has opened a third venue, Sassotondo, quite literally in a row. But this time it s not about French but rather Italian fare Tuscan, to be precise. The best flour, and therefore pasta, and the most delicate olive oils come from Tuscany, he explained. Chef Michele Della Valle, who previously worked for Il Vino and the Relais Plaza, makes fresh pasta daily, turning out refined rustic dishes such as quail and onion-stuffed ravioli or shoulder of lamb stuffed with Cerignola olives, artichoke and stewed red onions. Sassotondo 40 Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, Tel.: BLUE HORIZON Stretching from jeans to accessories, new concept store DL1961, in the heart of the Marais, also offers an exhibition space on the ground floor for contemporary artists and photographers. The store is named after the U.S-based jeans brand DL1961, for which the store s founder, Philippe Thourmine, is the French distributor. The collection of jeans for men and women starts at 195 euros ($281) retail. The store, set over two levels, also has an array of accessories, including bags by Barbara Rihl and perfume and Interior view of DL1961. The sound tree at the Bar of the Plaza Athénée. candles by Byredo. Other brands stocked include U.S. T-shirt label E.vil and Italian men s wear brand Daggs. DL Rue Ferdinand Duval, Tel.: PROJECT RUNWAY French department store Galeries Lafayette will attempt to top its own 2010 record for the world s largest fashion show by staging a catwalk display with 700 models to kick off its fall Fashion Capitals campaign, which celebrates the world s leading style capitals. The second edition of the annual show is scheduled to take place Sept. 15, with models selected from among Internet applicants parading down a 1.2-mile catwalk in central Paris wearing their own outfits inspired by four themes: Preppy New York, Hipster London, Glamorous Milan and Bohemian Hairdresser Franck Provost and makeup brand L Oréal Paris will be on hand to dispense beauty advice before the show, which will then be reprised in 50 towns across France on Sept. 17. Fashion Capitals runs at Galeries Lafayette stores from Sept. 14 to Oct. 1. Web: lamodecestvous.com An iillustration from the Carnet Vendôme. CHIC GUIDE Handed out at the Chanel couture show this month, the Carnet Vendôme with illustrations by Karl Lagerfeld is now available in store. Courtesy of the Comité Vendôme, the 120-page guide has addresses of stores and restaurants, as well as information on more than 60 Vendôme members. They include luxury jewelers Boucheron, Cartier and Chopard, as well as chocolate maker Pierre Marcolini. The guide is available in three languages English, French and Chinese and sells for 10 euros ($14) at English language bookstore Galignani. Librairie Galignani 224 Rue de Rivoli, Tel.:

3 ART DIRECTOR KAMEL YAHIMI 3-6 SEPTEMBER 2011 PARIS - PORTE DE VERSAILLES HALLS 1 & 2.2 PRE-REGISTER ON

4 4 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, 2011 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD PARIS TRADE SHOW PREVIEW Fairs Implement Innovative Options FACING A RANGE OF CHALLENGES, SHOW ORGANIZERS ARE SEEKING CLEVER WAYS TO DRIVE BUSINESS. BY JOELLE DIDERICH WITH EUROPEAN consumer confidence dampened by the region s ongoing debt woes, organizers of Paris leading trade shows are pulling out the stops to make their offerings more focused and creative. Consolidation is the name of the game, following the acquisition of Sodes the company in charge of Prêt à Porter Paris, Atmosphère s, The Box, LivingRoom and now-defunct The Train by Paris-based WSN Développement, which runs the Who s Next and Premiere Classe shows. In addition, Paris Capitale de la Création, or Paris Capital of Creativity, the collective that groups the French capital s leading trade shows and events, this season welcomes three new members Mess Around, Sixty Days and Paris Design Week bringing its total up to 22. Etienne Cochet, president of Paris Capitale de la Création and managing director of trade show organizer Safi, said all these new developments were aimed at making Paris a more competitive venue for trade shows. I don t see any growth in the size of the overall pie for consumer goods, but the effectiveness of French trade shows in the fashion and home consumer goods sector is clearly on a growth path when compared with the general environment, he said. Now that all the French are on the same page, that can only be a very good thing. Cochet, who also runs the Maison & Objet trade show, said the first edition of Paris Design Week, scheduled to take place from Sept. 12 to 18, was a good example of how to energize buyers in a difficult economic climate. Timed to also coincide with France s Journées du Patrimoine, or Heritage Days, on Sept. 17 and 18, the week-long event represents an investment of 500,000 euros, or $700,000 at current exchange. Bearing in mind that stores make 40 percent of their annual revenues between October and December, if we organize very high-impact promotional events like Paris Design Week in our sector at the beginning of the season, it can only help boost sales, he said. In the clothing and apparel segments, the focus is more on streamlining the offer. Prêt à Porter Paris, for instance, will group ready-towear on one floor and accessories on another, and is whittling down the total number of sections. These streamlining efforts can only improve buyers perception, Cochet said. We are not going to change the sales figures of their stores, that s for sure, but at least rationalizing the offer when they arrive at our trade shows to buy their products is a step in the right direction. The fall editions of the trade shows will take place in a context of slowing growth across the Wurozone. The 17-member single currency area saw gross domestic product (GDP) rise 0.8 percent in the first quarter, thanks largely to a 1.5 percent rise in Germany, but the pace of growth has slowed in the second quarter, said Chris Williamson, chief economist at financial information services company Markit. He expects Eurozone GDP to grow by 0.5 to 0.6 percent in the second quarter, but with very sharp differences between core nations like Germany and France, and so-called peripheral nations like Portugal, Spain, Italy and Ireland, which could see their economies contract due to the impact of government austerity measures. In the second half of the year, it s going to be a PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE The summer sales in France started off slowly. case of watching very closely to see whether the uncertainty caused by the problems in the periphery cause consumer and business confidence to weaken further in the core and cause a further slowdown, Williamson said. He noted that in Spain, for instance, one in five working- age adults is unemployed. People are going to be very cautious with what money they do have, tending to buy essentials rather than luxuries, and trading down wherever possible to save money, he said. France is already showing signs of fatigue. Retail sales fell for the first time in four months during June as customers stayed out of stores, even as retailers faced growing pressure on their margins from rising input costs, according to the monthly Retail PMI survey for France produced by Markit and based on a panel of 300 retailers. The summer sales, which kicked off on June 22, went off with a whimper rather than a bang. Sales of clothing and textiles fell 6 percent during the first two weeks of the sales, with footfall down 3 to 5 percent during the period, said the French Institute of Fashion (IFM). In June as a whole, clothing sales rose 12 percent, with department stores recording a 34 percent jump in sales. But independent multibrand stores continued to lag, and their owners fear a sharp dropoff in sales once July figures are tallied, owing to poor weather and the start of summer holidays, the IFM said. Mindful that these independents are facing increasing competition from fast-fashion chains, Prêt à Porter Paris is putting the focus on what it has dubbed the heart of the market casual chic brands in the contemporary and midrange segment. Buyers need to be reassured about the brands they are purchasing, said Muriel Piaser, exhibitions director for Prêt à Porter Today, buyers are looking for products that are both creative and high quality, at a reasonable price. They are scared of fast fashion, she said. If you look at a buyer for a multibrand, or a catalogue retailer or a buying office, they need to find added value in the product they are buying, and that is the role of the trade show today. Piaser said the onus was on the show s organizers to present a realistic vision of the types of products on offer, so while trend watcher Alexandra Senes will be highlighting spring-summer trends and art directing the fair s fashion shows, two-thirds of the products on offer will be what Piaser dubs slow wear pieces that are on trend yet have a timeless element. Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca, meanwhile, is betting on specialization. Rather than spreading out into related categories like accessories, it is putting increased focus on precious jewelry with an expanded Gold by Eclat de Mode gold jewelry section. We are fending off the economic gloom because when in doubt, people always have a tendency to consult a specialist, said Richard Martin, deputy director and artistic director of the jewelry salon. The trade show is expecting around 500 visitors this season, roughly equal to the 490 at the same time last year, he said. It s been a long time since we had so many exhibitors in September, whereas all the trade shows last January were pretty slow, at Porte de Versailles at least, he said. Despite economic uncertainty, women continue to buy jewelry at all price points, he said. It s the same as with clothes: These days, women wear their Prada handbag with a pair of jeans from H&M, Martin noted. Popular items range from slim precious jewelry by the likes of Vanessa Tugendhaft or Perle de Lune to the costume jewelry creations of Philippe Ferrandis, who will celebrate the 25th anniversary of his brand with five limited edition necklaces inspired by the world s continents. Nonetheless, Martin noted that the strength of the euro against the U.S. dollar was dissuading American buyers from attending the Paris trade shows. And economists say even those from within the Eurozone are faced with dwindling spending power. Euroland retailers face a difficult year. Households face a number of headwinds that will curb their enthusiasm to hit the high street, said Melanie Bowler, economist at Moody s Analytics. Those challenges include persistently high unemployment, fiscal tightening and the rising cost of essentials like home heating, gasoline and food, at a time when wage growth is restricted, she noted. The combination of rising taxes and reduced welfare spending suggest discretionary spending will be particularly weak in the most fiscally troubled countries in the Eurozone.

5 preview, Fotolia. SAFI. 4 passage Roux, Paris cedex 17. France. Tél (0) Fax (0) info@parisdesignweek.fr

6 6 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, 2011 SECTION II WWD PARIS TRADE SHOW PREVIEW Who s News A FEW FRESH NAMES ON THE TRADE SHOW CIRCUIT. BY KATYA FOREMAN AND NATASHA MONTROSE Accessories by Coralie de Seynes Who: Coralie de Seynes Paris Where: The Box What: Jewelry Tidbit: Coralie De Seynes figures among a group of favorite Prêt à Porter exhibitors selected by Paris retailer Maria Luisa Poumaillou this season. Spring highlights: Leaf and feather motif aged brass headpieces inspired by Empress Josephine; brass necklaces with enamel pendants and rings made from woven leather. Retail range: 40 to 120 euros ($57 to $170 at current exchange.) A look by Elsien Gringhuis. Who: L Aiglon Where: Maro&Go, a new leather goods section on Prêt à Porter s accessories floor. What: High-end leather goods, ties, men s jewelry. Background: Founded in 1889 by belt maker François Bayon, L Aiglon in 1990 was acquired by current president Dominique Vigin through his company Vigin Accessoires de Mode. Vigin went on to buy other accessories firms, including tie maker Prady, and Collaert. In the late Nineties, he formed an accessories group, Collaert L Aiglon, specializing in belts, ties and leather goods. The company today produces and distributes licensed accessories for a number of brands including Lacoste, Lanvin and Azzaro. Tidbit: Customizable belts handmade in France based on an archived L Aiglon design remain among the brand s top-selling items. A reedition of men s braces designed by the French artist Bernard Buffet for L Aiglon in the Fifties will form part of the spring collection. Spring highlights: L Aiglon has updated its leather goods, targeting a younger customer. Launches will include three lines of business bags for women and a line of ultrafine wallets for men. Retail range: From 60 euros ($85)for small leather goods to 350 euros ($500), for a travel bag or crocodile skin belt. Who: IRM Design Designed by: French duo Marion Lalanne and Pierre Alexis Hermet Where: Who s Next. Spring highlights: A capsule collection of seven looks painted by contemporary French artist Françoise Nielly, who is known for her use of fluorescent and pastel colors. The duo will also present necklaces and handbags, including an ipad case in black leather with an integrated glove and new versions of the brand s signature climbing rope necklaces in pale and neon shades. Looking ahead: Developing the accessories line and perhaps doing a line of shoes. Retail range: Bags: 280 euros ($396); necklaces: 170 euros ($240); clothing: 500 to 3,000 euros ($718 to $4,300). IRM Design s rope necklace. A leather bag by L Aiglon. PHOTO BY MEINKEKLEINPICTURES Who: Elsien Gringhuis Where: Gringhuis belongs to Dutch collective Green Orange, whose members will make up 21 out of the 50 brands showing at So Ethic this season. Tidbit: In January, Gringhuis scooped the first prize in the Green Fashion Competition, initiated by Amsterdam International Fashion Week and the Dutch Ministry of Agriculture, Nature and Food Quality (LNV) to mark the international Year of Biodiversity. Spring highlights: Gringhuis s spring collection will include a new permanent line of classic basics, dubbed Basic Ones, such as the blouse, the trench coat, the blazer and the pleated trouser. Many of the materials in this series are eco-friendly, including silk and cotton coated in beeswax, which, the designer says, you can keep re-waxing so it stays nice over the years and doesn t need washing. Colors for the new collection are black, white, orange, and yellow. Retail range: About 95 to 800 euros ($135 to $1,150).

7 Who: Balangan Where: The FACE section of Who s Next, Hall 1. Founder: French designer Bastien Grandy. What: A new men s shoe label inspired by French maritime lifestyle: sea, boat and sea culture. Target customer is 30-plus. Standouts: The Junking and the Ketch, both inspired by the deck shoe, feature colored heels, while different colored stitched sailboat logos on each shoe symbolize port and starboard. Tidbit: Three percent of the label s sales go toward creating a foundation for Balinese fishermen and lifeguards. Looking ahead: We expect to be in 50 stores for the first season, said Grandy. As our roots are the sea, priority will be A look by Liz Black. Who: Liz Black Where: Atmosphére s Background: Founded in September 2010 by Londonbased Venezuelan designer Liz Black, a graduate of London s Central Saint Martins, the brand targets the 25- to 45-year-old cosmopolitan woman. Spring highlights: Precision-cut angular silhouettes take inspiration from travel and speed, as well as the modern glass and metal architecture of Zaha Hadid. Using a gray and lilac color scheme, elements include an eel skin trench and dresses with detachable leather inserts fixed with suitcase locks. Retail range: Around 300 pounds ($490) for a shirt to 1,200 pounds ($1,950) for a jacket. A Hartmann Nordenholz bag. Balangan s Junking deck shoe. given to stores supporting boating activities, such as Coopérative Maritime [a cooperative of sailing equipment stores in France] who aren t the most trendy but by far the most authentic. Retail range: From 100 euros ($143) for a boat shoe, or from 25 euros ($36) for flip-flops. Who: Sigomonta Where: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca. Category: Fine jewelry. Tidbit: The Budapest-based brand s signature is its Stocklet bracelet made from a luxury black lingerie strap with gold hardware resembling a garter belt clasp. All pieces are made by hand in the brand s atelier. The collection: Small jewelry items to bold precious pieces. Retail range: 400 euros ($575) for the Stocklet bracelet to 40,000 euros ($57,500) for a necklace with a pendant made of four diamondencrusted hearts forming a four leaf clover. A ring by Sigomonta. Brand: Hartmann Nordenholz Where: Pop Up at Premiere Classe Founders: Filip Fiska and Agnes Schorer Nationality: German-Austrian Tidbit: Known for its architectural lines and geometric prints, the label is one of 18 accessory and clothing collections participating in the Austrian Fashion Showcase section in Who s Next and Premiere Classe. Spring highlights: Leather handbags will be the main focus of the brand s presentation, based on geometric designs with unusual surface effects, like experimental folds and pleating details. The brand will also present a capsule line of dresses in viscose jersey, Modal, linen and silk blends with floral prints produced digitally and by hand. Retail range: Bags: 280 to 600 euros ($400 to $860); dresses: 240 to 600 euros ($345 to $860). WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, PAKISTANIS TO BE HONORED WWD.COM LAHORE, Pakistan In the spotlight at Parisbased salon Atmosphère by Muse. A look in September will be eight popular Pakistani brands featuring women s wear collections geared to compete in the international marketplace. The labels combine their culture s colors, aesthetics, craftsmanship and embroideries with contemporary Western cuts and tailoring. The brands are Hassan Sheheryar Yasin, one the country s most successful and prolific designers, whose garments have a regal glamour; Kamiar Rokni, known for his embroidery motifs and clean lines; Adnan Pardesy, who favors Western silhouettes and cuts; Khaadi, a design house that specializes in hand-woven textiles; Muse, a cleaner contemporary line offering day and eveningwear; Nickie Nina, by design duo Aliya Ali and Nabila Junaid, favoring a traditional Pakistani design ethos; Teejays, an established ready-to-wear brand with women s and men s lines, and Zaheer Abbas, a relative newcomer whose clothes appeal to a younger segment. The brands will participate in dedicated daily fashion shows alongside the event s Trendswash trend shows organized by Alexandra Senes. The initiative reflects the ongoing modernization and standardization of Pakistan s fashion industry alongside the fast-paced growth of the country s textile and garment industry. Considering that until recently, tailor-made indigenous outfits and bridal couture were the extent of the country s fashion business, the industry has come a long way. However, designer Rokni, while acknowledging tremendous progress, said the synergy between the country s textile sector and the design community has yet to happen, especially regarding value-added designer product. Designers there face several challenges. Despite the existence of large apparel mills in Pakistan, the scale of the local ready-to-wear business remains limited and underdeveloped. Instead of garments being made in factories, they are mainly produced in smaller workshops. Hence, there is less standardization and with limited economies of scale, manufacturing costs are high. Most of the design studios and manufacturing capacities are located here and in Karachi, the country s largest and most affluent cities. Several initiatives are in place to help develop the sector, however. Since there s a dearth of trained professionals to develop the country s fashion industry, in 1995 the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design was set up to train fashion and textile designers, as well as marketing and merchandising professionals. The school is affiliated with Les Ecoles de la Chambre Syndicale Parisienne in In 2006, an agreement was signed between the PIFD and the French Federation of Women s Ready-to-Wear to develop Pakistan s garment industry for the international market, with links between the Pakistan and French garment industries. In the same year, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council was established to help organize designers and offer a platform for showcasing ready-to-wear collections through biannual fashion weeks. Due to the security issues in the country, however, buyers have not been attending the events in large numbers. Pakistan s design ethos is similar to that of neighboring India. But according to the PFDC, 90 percent of the embroideries of the subcontinent have their origins in Pakistan. The country s cotton and silk textiles are also of a high quality. As well as helping designers shape their collections to appeal to the global market, the PFDC is actively promoting the country s embroidery crafts sector as a means of providing livelihood to workers as well passing the skill on to a new generation of craftsmen. MAHLIA S. LONE

8 8 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, 2011 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD PARIS TRADE SHOW PREVIEW Buyers Desires THE PEOPLE WITH THE PENCILS HAVE THEIR SAY. BY ALEX WYNNE Ed Burstell outside Liberty in London. Bird s Jennifer Mankins inside one of her Brooklyn stores. A view of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann s designer women s wear department. Ken Downing DOWNING PHOTO BY DUFFY-MARIE ARNOULT/WIREIMAGE.COM FOR THE FALL TRADE SHOWS IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL, retail wish lists are about as diverse as the markets they serve. Bright even neon colors remain important, as do prints and exotic textures and materials. Many buyers will be scouting that must-have accessory, which has to jump out at them from the wealth of young brands that will be showing, to complement their ready-to-wear offer from the designer labels showing on the runways. While American buyers are still attentive to price because of the strong euro, most say that they will pony up for items they really love. Here s what retailers had to say. Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty: We are looking for a combination of immediate deliveries that could impact holiday sales as well as early spring receipts. In accessories, we re looking primarily for hats, scarves, casual bags and small leather goods. Trends include vibrant colors, floral and geometric prints and lightweight fabrics, such as tissue cashmere. Jewelry is also on our radar, but is a price-sensitive category needing newness and originality. Price points will be a tiered approach with entry-to-mid-level, with higher prices coming from designer collections. At the rtw shows, we re looking for color and print, fabric versatility, casual outerwear and interesting knitwear. In footwear, we ll look for the editorial shoes from the runway collections. Lincoln Moore, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for handbags/accessories; fashion director of women s accessories/shoes/jewelry, Saks Fifth Avenue: The accessories team at Saks is always looking for differentiated fashion product especially in Paris at the trade shows. We search for product that is emotional, trend-right and reflects the mood seen on the runways. Trends in handbags and shoes will feature beautiful colors and pieces that are rich in fabrics, including mixed materials and exotic skins, like python. For jewelry, we ll look for fashion and fine jewelry collections that speak to the Saks fashion customer and that are designed with a strong aesthetic. Jennifer Mankins, owner of the Bird boutiques in Brooklyn: I always look forward to the Paris shows. I especially love the accessories collections, jewelry and shoes I find there. Judging from the direction of the resort collections, bold, bright colors and prints are going to be very big for next spring, so I ll look for corresponding accessories. Now that the dollar is weaker again I have to be careful, so I will be looking for affordable, fun collections nothing too dark, serious or expensive. Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus: Color is always at the top of our list, as it works with our customer. This time, we ll be looking for varied shades of pink, particularly that hot pink color we have been seeing a lot of, and DayGlo shades and neon accents that are giving special contrasts. Color blocking will continue to be a key theme, and we ll also be looking for the scuba influence with piping. Print continues to be very important into spring, particularly florals, spots and stripes. In terms of shapes, we are looking for silhouettes that are flattering for the feminine form. We hope to see body-conscious dresses on the runways and at the trade shows. In accessories: colorful handbags and shoes to complement the clothing. Color with color is an important theme. Ludivine Grégoire, owner of Ludivine boutique in New York: This fall in Paris, I ll be looking for silk color pieces with prints, summer pants and cross-body lady-like bags. Because of the strong euro, I am more careful regarding quantity when the price point is too high. However, I will always buy a piece that I love. Pascale Camart, director of women s wear buying, Galeries Lafayette, Paris: At the trade shows, I will look to confirm color trends and especially unmissable products to buy in volume, for example the Chinese pants that were hot for this summer. I will also confirm new, small brands to link with our events for the coming year. It is important to meet a maximum number of brands in a minimum amount of time. Andrea Selvi, senior buyer for formal men s wear and shoes, Le Bon Marché, Paris: We will look for originality, because we already know most of the brands. We will go to Première Classe in both September and October, but it is the October edition that s the most interesting, for example, for unisex hat and scarf brands. We ll scout for brands that are showing something new or that have changed positioning, particularly non-european brands, as we do not always have time to attend the shows in New York and Las Vegas. Price positioning is not an issue for Le Bon Marché. Accessories, like this Bonnie bag from Diane de Maria, are key on buyers wish lists. Ikram Goldman, owner, Ikram, Chicago: I don t go to the trade shows to buy ready-towear, but to look for accessories like interesting jewelry and handbags. I m dying to find a great sock collection to complement my shoe offer, and there aren t a lot of people out there doing socks. I m interested in fun costume jewelry that makes sense for the season. I don t know exactly what I m looking for, but when I see it, I know. When I love it, I buy it, and I don t look at the price; it s more interesting to present your client with items that are meaningful and fabulous. My new, bigger store, which opens on Wednesday, will allow me to showcase things in the right way, rather than offer more brands.

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10 10 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, 2011 SECTION II WWD PARIS TRADE SHOW PREVIEW Design Week Debut Furniture from Cappellini. By DEVORAH LAUTER THE CRADLE OF high fashion is branching out. The city will host its first design week in September, with more than 80 events across the capital showcasing a wide range of the latest creations from France and around the world. SAFI, the group that organizes Maison & Objet, the Paris home fashion and design trade show for professionals, also initiated Paris Design Week to reach a broader audience, much like design weeks held in London, Tokyo and Milan. The new event is scheduled for Sept. 12 to 18, to coincide with the final days of the Maison & Objet show, branching off the professional salon s 85,000 attendees with a citywide happening open to the public. It will take place in an eclectic array of venues, inviting visitors to purchase creations hot off international trade show floors, view works in progress, attend conferences and meet players in the industry amid a festival atmosphere. With the help of a guide, the public will be able to wander through the city, attend exhibits held in temporary and permanent showrooms, galleries, ateliers and even hotels, restaurants and apartments, where new designs in the largest sense of the word will be on display. From dessert concoctions or an inflatable surfboard to home and kitchen fashion, any form of art de vivre is encouraged in the festival, said Philippe Chomat, the director of communications for Paris Design Week. Helping prolong the Maison & Objet show, objects that were previewed there will be exhibited and for sale at the Galeries Lafayette Maison store. I saw that it was a beautiful opportunity to wake Paris up, said Odile Fillion, director of Jean Nouvel Design, which is transforming the French architect and designer s headquarters into a temporary showroom for Paris Design Week. She also said the sector could use a positive project, after losses from the economic crisis. If we can make Paris lively and a place of discovery for the greater public and professionals, then we should do it. Signs the French market was increasingly interested in the contemporary suggested it was time to launch a design week, said Chomat. What s more, design weeks are increasingly being created in big cities, to give more visibility to showrooms. But organizers also hope Paris Design Week will have a voice of its own, bringing attention to the more than 8,000 designers living in the capital region, as well as stimulating business following the economic crisis. Our desire is to be much more diverse than what happens elsewhere, said Chomat. Besides new creations from big brands such as Cappellini, Cassina, Poltrona Frau and Modenature, roughly 60 lesser-known designers, young collectives and students at the start of their careers will show original and experimental work at the Docks en Seine. We don t speak up strongly enough on design. We had a kind of complex, said Jean-Luc Colonna d Istria, director of general marketing at Paris concept store Merci. For Paris Design Week, Merci will exhibit more than 150 pieces by the next generation of Japanese designers, discovered over a year-and-a-half of research throughout that country, in a show titled Sugao. Colonna d Istria echoed the shared view that although there is no shortage of design creativity, there is not enough distribution for young creators in France, due to relatively conservative investment in design distribution compared to other European countries. The Merci show will introduce works that evoke the Japan that isn t seen. These are artists who don t go after the big lights, but are interested in how an object can be used, said Colonna d Istria. We have to get out of this very closed clan of people in design, and get out on the street. Calendar SEPTEMBER 1-4: Ethical Fashion Show, Carrousel du Louvre, Hours: Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m.- 6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Category: Ethical fashion. Contact: Michèle Dera. Tel.: Fax: ethicalfashionshow@france.messefrankfurt. Web: ethicalfashionshow. 2-5: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca, Porte de Versailles, Hall 5, Hours: Friday-Sunday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday, 9:30 a.m.- 6 p.m. Category: Jewelry. Tel.: Fax: info@bijorhca. Web: bijorhca. 3-6: Première Classe, Porte de Versailles, Hall 1, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Accessories. Contact: Steven Deru. Tel.: Fax: info@premiereclasse. Web: premiere-classe. 3-6: Who s Next, Porte de Versailles, Halls 1 & 2.2, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Steven Deru. Tel.: Fax: info@whosnext. Web: whosnext. 3-6: Prêt à Porter Paris, Porte de Versailles, Hall 7, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Muriel Piaser. Tel.: Fax: mpiaser@pretparis. Web: pretparis. 3-6: Atmosphère s, Porte de Versailles, Hall 7, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Muriel Piaser. Tel.: Fax: mpiaser@pretparis. Web: pretparis. 3-6: The Box, Porte de Versailles, Hall 7, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Accessories. Contact: Muriel Piaser. Tel.: Fax: mpiaser@pretparis. Web: pretparis. 3-6: Sixty Days, Porte de Versailles, Hall 3, Hours: Saturday-Monday, 9 a.m.- 7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Following are the trade shows slated from September through December. Information is accurate as of press time but subject to change, and visitors are encouraged to confirm dates, times and locations. Category: Ready-to-wear/ Accessories. Contact: Sandrine Dervin. Tel.: Fax.: sdervin@eurovet.fr. Web: sixtydaysparis. 4-5: Printor Paris, Palais Brongniart, Rue Vivienne, Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Category: Jewelry/Watches/ Technical industries. Contact: Stéphanie Devesly. Tel.: stephanie.devesly@ gl-events. Web: printor.fr. 4-6: Fatex, Porte de Versailles, Hall 4, Hours: Sunday-Monday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Sourcing. Contact: Wioletta Stopa. Tel.: Fax: wstopa@eurovet.fr. Web: fatex.fr. 4-6: Mess Around, Porte de Versailles, Hall 2.1, Hours: Sunday-Monday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9 a.m.- 6 p.m. Category: Footwear/Leather Goods/Accessories. Contact: Amélie Le Roux. Tel.: Fax: amelie@messaround. Web: mess-around. 9-13: Maison & Objet, Parc des Expositions, Paris-Nord Villepinte. Hours: Friday-Monday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Home/Design. Contact: Virginie Perez- Vacher. Tel.: Fax: virginie.perez-vacher@safisalons.fr. Web: maison-objet. 9-13: Now! Design à Vivre, Parc des Expositions, Paris- Nord Villepinte. Hours: Friday-Monday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Interior Design. Contact: Nathalie Moreno. Tel.: Fax: nathalie.moreno@ safisalons.fr. Web: maison-objet. 9-13: Scènes d Intérieur, Parc des Expositions, Paris- Nord Villepinte. Hours: Friday-Monday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Nathalie Moreno. Category: Home decoration. Tel.: Fax: nathalie.moreno@ safisalons.fr. Web: maison-objet : Texworld, Le Bourget Exhibition Center, Hours: Monday-Wednesday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Thursday, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Category: Textiles. Contact: Messe Frankfurt France S.A.S. Tel.: Fax: texworld@france. messefrankfurt. Web: texworld.messefrankfurt : Apparel Sourcing, Le Bourget Exhibition Center, Hours: Friday-Monday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Ready-to-wear/ Accessories. Tel.: Fax.: Contact: Marie-Armelle de Bouteiller. apparelsourcing@ france.messefrankfurt. Web: apparelsourcing. messefrankfurt : Première Vision, Parc des Expositions, Halls 5 & 6, Paris-Nord Villepinte. Category: Fabrics for the clothing sector. Contact: Christiane de Clavière, Marie-Odile Verrier. Tel.: Fax.: info-visiteurs@premierevision. Web: premierevision : Zoom by Fatex, Parc des Expositions, Hall 2, Paris-Nord Villepinte. Category: Ready-to-wear & Accessories Manufacturing. Contact: Svetlana Hercberg. Tel.: Fax: shercberg@eurovet. fr. Web: zoombyfatex : Expofil, Parc des Expositions, Hall 5, Paris- Nord Villepinte. Category: Yarns and fibers. Contact: Christiane de Clavière, Marie-Odile Verrier. Tel.: Fax.: contact@expofil. Web: expofil : Indigo Fashion Edition, Parc des Expositions, Hall 5, Paris- Nord Villepinte. Category: Textile design. Contact: Stephanie Binoist. Tel.: Fax: info@indigo-salon. Web: indigo-salon : Le Cuir à Paris, Parc des Expositions, Hall 4, Paris-Nord Villepinte. Category: Leather/Fur. Contact: Juliette Sebille. Tel.: Fax.: jsebille@sicgroup. Web: lecuiraparis.

11 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 26, WWD.COM 20-22: ModAmont, Parc des Expositions, Hall 3, Paris-Nord Villepinte. Category: Fashion supplies and trimmings. Contact: Aimeline Marsura. Tel.: Fax: Web: modamont. 29-Oct. 2: Rendez-Vous Femme, Espace Evolution, 5 Rue St. Merri, Paris; Atelier Richelieu, 60 Rue de Richelieu, Hours: 10 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Contact: Antoine Floch. Tel.: antoine@rendez-vousparis. Web: rendez-vous-paris. 30-Oct. 3: The Box, session II, Pavillon Cambon, 46 Rue Cambon, Hours: Friday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Accessories. Contact: Muriel Piaser. Tel.: Fax: mpiaser@pretparis. Web: pretparis. 30-Oct. 3: Tranoï, Carrousel du Louvre (avant-garde designers), Rue de Rivoli; Palais de la Bourse (contemporary designers), 2 Place de la Bourse; Montaigne (luxury and high-end designers), 7 Rond Point des Champs-Elysées, Hours: Friday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Tranoï. Tel.: Fax: info@tranoi. Web: tranoi. 30-Oct. 3: Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow, Le Meurice (high-end women s wear & lifestyle), 6 Rue de Castiglione; Park Hyatt Vendôme (prestigious accessories), 5 Rue de la Paix; Hôtel d Evreux (couture & fine jewelry), 19 Place Vendôme. Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Category: Luxury ready-to-wear & accessories. Contact: Thibaut Biscos Perriand. Tel.: Fax: contact@xxb.fr. Web: vendomeluxurytradeshow. OCTOBER 1-3: Capsule, Garage Turenne, 66 Rue de Turenne, Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Contact: Chris Corrado. Tel.: chris@bpmw-agency. Web: capsuleshow. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 30-Dec. 1: Denim by Première Vision, Halle Freyssinet, 55 Boulevard Auriol, Hours: 9:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Category: Denim. Contact: Christiane de Clavière/Marie- Odile Verrier. Tel.: info-visiteurs@premierevision. Web: denimbypremierevision. 29-Oct. 2: Silmo, Parc des Expositions, Hall 5A-6, Paris- Nord Villepinte. Category: Optics/Eyewear. Contact: Edwige Salgues. Tel.: edwige.salgues@comexposium. Web: silmoparis. 30-Oct. 3: Workshop Paris, Cercle Républicain, 5 Avenue de l Opéra, Paris; Hôtel Régina, 192 Rue de Rivoli, Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Category: Ready-to-wear/ Accessories. Contact: Myriam Mohamed. Tel.: Fax: contact@workshopfashionagency. Web: workshopfashionagency. 30-Oct. 3: Atmosphère s, session II, Terrasse des Feuillants, Jardin des Tuileries, Hours: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Contact: Muriel Piaser. Tel.: Fax: mpiaser@pretparis. Web: pretparis. 30-Oct. 3: Designers & Agents, Espace 5 bis, 5 Bis Rue Froissart, Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Category: Ready-to-wear/ Accessories/Jewelry. Contact: Maryann Piazza. Tel.: Fax: maryann@designersandagents. Web: designersandagents. 30-Oct. 3: Première Classe Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants, Jardin des Tuileries, Hours: Friday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Category: Accessories. Contact: Steven Deru. Tel.: Fax: info@premiere-classe. Web: premiere-classe-tuileries. 30-Oct. 3: Paris Sur Mode Atelier, Terrasse des Feuillants, Jardin des Tuileries, Hours: Friday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Contact: Steven Deru. Tel.: Fax: info@parissurmodeatelier. Web: parissurmodeatelier.

12 the fashion and home tradeshows welcome you les salons professionnels mode et maison vous accueillent preview, Your next appointments Vos prochains rendez-vous : 2-5 Sept Paris Porte de Versailles ÉCLAT DE MODE un événement Bijorhca Sept Paris Porte de Versailles ATMOSPHÈRE S PREMIÈRE CLASSE PRÊT-À-PORTER PARIS SIXTY DAYS THE BOX WHO S NEXT Sept Paris Porte de Versailles MESS AROUND Sept Paris Nord-Villepinte MAISON&OBJET NOW! DESIGN À VIVRE SCÈNES D INTÉRIEUR Sept Paris Center PARIS DESIGN WEEK 29 Sept.-2 Oct Paris Nord-Villepinte SILMO PARIS Mondial de l Optique 30 Sept.-3 Oct Paris Center ATMOSPHÈRE S PARIS SUR MODE PREMIÈRE CLASSE Tuileries TRANOÏ FEMME THE BOX WORKSHOP PARIS