catwalk TO sidewalk From SEE-NOW-BUY-NOW to designer SHAKEUPS which trends slayed on the runway? TREND REPORT: FASHION MONTH
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1 TREND REPORT: FASHION MONTH catwalk TO sidewalk From SEE-NOW-BUY-NOW to designer SHAKEUPS which trends slayed on the runway? IMAGES: VOGUE.COM Fashion Month started on September 8th in New York City and five weeks later weary editors, bloggers, and models are dragging themselves home from Paris. We experienced see-now-buy-now collections, Snapchat fashion shows, major designer shifts, and a whole host of new trends. We recapped New York, London, Milan, and Paris on our blog, but now the question is which looks have global staying power? What will resonate with consumers and when will the hot looks from the catwalk be right for your consumer? TOTAL SOCIAL ACTIONS PER HASHTAG DURING FASHION MONTH
2 TOP TEN trends to WATCH #1: RUFFLES Ruffles were everywhere this fashion month. In New York Michael Kors, Marchesa, and Rodarte were among the brands showing the trend. In London Mulberry, Simone Rocha, and Erdem showed frilly looks as well. Alexander McQueen, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Chloé, Emanuel Ungaro, and Elie Saab kept the trend going strong in Milan and Paris. Ruffles are a growing trend based on influencer social buzz with online searches up by 33% compared to last year. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ELIE SAAB MARCHESA RODARTE 2
3 #2: FASHION JUNGLE Bold prints, particularly animal prints, came out strong at fashion month. In London, Topshop Unique showed a selection of instantly-shopable zebra print garments that debuted simultaneously on the catwalk and in the front row. Max Mara, Furla, and Dolce & Gabbana played with leopard and lemur motifs. Meanwhile, in Paris, activist designer Stella McCartney launched the hashtag #furfreefur: searches for faux fur are up by 19% to last year. EMPORIO ARMANI LANVIN DOLCE & GABBANA MAX MARA 3
4 #3: PLEATS Pleats dominated on the runway for this season, echoing the black-and-white accordion pleats we saw from Proenza Schouler for pre-fall 2015 and the knife pleats Alessandro Michele presented for Gucci s Resort 2017 collection. For Spring/Summer 2017 we saw oversized plissé from Jil Sander, kick pleats from Missoni, and Fortuny pleats from Gucci. Marni, Antonio Marras, Arthur Arbesser, and Giamba also embraced this classic look. Jil Sander s #1 post during fashion month showcased this style, with 3x higher engagement than the brand s average social actions per post. GIAMBA ARTHUR ARBESSER ANTONIO MARRAS MARNI 4
5 #4: FLORALS Designers this season had floral fever! We saw appliqué flowers and blossomy prints from Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Louboutin, Ermanno Scervino, Delpozo, Blumarine, and Antonio Marras. Dries Van Noten even incased intricate bouquets in ice for his Spring/Summer 2017 show in Paris a runway set made for social. Van Noten s display was featured in top posts by industry influencers including Vogue, Harper s Bazaar, Nordstrom, and Barneys. BLUMARINE LUISA BECCARIA ALEXANDER WANG THOM BROWNE 5
6 #5: DRAWSTRINGS Stretchy drawstrings, eyelets, and cords for Spring/ Summer 2017 demonstrate the enduring power of athleisure in the high fashion market. Versace, Marni, Chloé, Blumarine, Loewe, Josh Goot, and MSGM all took this sporty look to the catwalk. Read our Athleisure Report for a full analysis of this lifestyle trend. Online searches for drawstring bags are up by 29% compared to last year is this feature ready to go mainstream in womenswear? JOSEPH DIESEL BLACK GOLD MSGM JOSH GOOT 6
7 #6: STRIPES From bold stripes, to candy stripes, to pinstripes this iconic pattern is seeing a revival on the runway. Rosie Assoulin, Ferragamo, and Proenza Schouler showed mega-stripes, while Christian Louboutin, Aquilano.Rimondi, Brunello Cucinelli, Fendi, and Etro took a more delicate approach. Stripes and shirting go hand-in-hand, so it is no surprise that with online searches for stripes going up we are also seeing searches for striped shirts up by 17% to last year. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ETRO AQUILANO.RIMONDI ROSIE ASSOULIN 7
8 #7: OVERSIZE Oversize is here in a big way. From structured shouldered power suits from Balenciaga, Céline, and Jil Sander to billowing silhouettes at Chloé, Hood by Air, Anya Hindmarch, and Topshop it is clear that spacious styles are a look to watch for Spring/Summer Online searches for power suits are up by 29% compared to last year and search momentum for oversized coats is up by 27% during fashion month. JIL SANDER CÉLINE BALENCIAGA HOOD BY AIR 8
9 #8: WAIST FOCUS From New York to Paris all eyes were on the midsection. We saw abdomen-baring crop tops, but also more universally flattering looks with belts and corsetting from Rodarte, Prada, Alberta Ferretti, Ferragamo, Gucci, Dsquared2, Max Mara, and Loewe. We ll be monitoring how this corseted look performs in the market. Search momentum for corset belts was up by 9% during fashion month and search momentum for waist cinchers was up 10% during the same time period. FERRAGAMO ALBERTA FERRETTI RODARTE ALEXANDER WANG 9
10 #9: MILITARY MIGHT Military chic is having a moment. In New York, Gigi Hadid stormed down the runway for Tommy Hilfiger in a blazer with militaristic embellishments for her TOMMYxGIGI collection. Her top post about the collaboration shows her rocking this look. The soldierly style also appeared on the catwalk for Dsquared2 and Burberry. Even heartthrob Harry Styles was seen in an embellished military jacket during Paris Fashion Week. Military jackets are a growing trend based on influencer social buzz with online search up 14% compared to last year. BURBERRY DSQUARED2 TOMMY HILFIGER DESIGUAL 10
11 #10: SUPER SLEEVES This summer s off-the-shoulder trend has sparked major innovation in the tops category, notably with playful new takes on the sleeve. For Spring/Summer 2017 we are seeing sleeve innovations from Michael Kors, J.W. Anderson, House of Holland, Simone Rocha, Cinq à Sept, Reem Acra, and Diane Von Furstenberg. Online searches for leg of mutton sleeves are up 15% and online searches for bell sleeves are up 77% compared to last year. MARQUES ALMEIDA CAROLINA HERRERA SAINT LAURENT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 11
12 IMAGE: INSTYLE all that GLITTERS is BOLD. Statement lips dominated the runway with metallic and color block looks from Fendi, DKNY, Maison Margiela, Cushnie et Ochs, and Jason Wu. L Oreal launched their #GOLDOBSESSION lipstick collection with a gilded party in Paris during fashion week. The event drew 1.7M social actions from influencers with Barbara Palvin and Hailey Baldwin driving almost half of the engagement. (Jason Wu) 12
13 GIGImania Gigi Hadid ruled the runway across the globe, debuting her TOMMYxGIGI collection in NYC before jetting off to London, Milan & Paris. She posted 112 times during fashion month and her fan base grew by 63% over the same time period. Gigi s posts about brands consistently generate more social actions than official brand posts featuring her. 8X 11X 106X 114X 13
14 industry INFLUENCERS Who were the influencers setting the tone during fashion month? From Vogue to Harper s Bazaar, these industry insiders were sitting front row and driving the conversation about the looks that mattered. 14
15 designer MUSICAL CHAIRS Anthony Vaccarello s debut collection for Saint Laurent has garnerd critical acclaim, but influencers aren t ready to move on from Hedi Slimane just yet. Under Slimane s reign the celebrity factor was huge for the brand Lady Gaga, Cara Delevingne, and Demi Lovato ranked among the brand s top influencers, but since his departure these celebs have dropped off. Over the past six months the brand s top influencers have been mainly beauty bloggers with significantly less engagement. Meanwhile, Anna Dello Russo remains a staunch supporter of the brand showing up in Paris in the red fur heart cape from Slimane s Fall 2016 collection and posting about Saint Laurent 16 times during Paris Fashion Week. Social actions on Saint Laurent s official social pages were up by nearly 5X during the most recent Paris Fashion Week versus Hedi Slimane s Fall/Winter 2016 show, but social actions from industry influencers were down by 150%. 15
16 lady DIOR Maria Grazia Chiuri brought feminism to Dior and with it a powerful crew of female influencers. As the first woman to head the 70-year-old brand she has already made a point to highlight the other women at Dior with the hashtag #TheWomenBehindMyDress. This concept is resonating with key players social actions from industry influencers are up by 50% since fashion week in March of love for LANVIN Lanvin has struggled since Alber Elbaz s departure in 2015, but with Bouchra Jarrar at the helm the house seems to be back on track. Social actions from industry influencer posts about the brand are up by 150% since Elbaz was ousted. The top influencers for the brand also indicate a changing of the guard under Elbaz the top influencers were fashion mainstays including Anna Dello Russo, Eva Chen, and Bryanboy. Jarrar s top influencers skew younger than Elbaz s with Cameron Dallas, Taylor Hill, Jolin Tsai, and Karlie Kloss leading the pack. 16
17 rising BRANDS jonathan SIMKHAI proenza SCHOULER During fashion month influencers drove 1000% more engagement for Proenza Schouler than the brand generated for itself. Blogger Bryanboy posted twice about Proenza Schouler during fashion month and posts from Vogue, Vogue Paris, and British Vogue also drove high engagement. Industry influencers drove 2000% more engagement for Simkhai than the brand s official pages generated on their own. Top influencers included Alessandra Ambrosio, Ashley Graham, Sophia Bush, and Taylor Hill who collectively drove 80% of the influencer social actions on only eight posts. Taylor Hill alone garnered 280X more social actions on the exact same photo. LOEWE Influencers drove 4x more social actions compared to Loewe s brand official pages. Famous faces including Chira Ferragni (The Blonde Salad), Miroslava Duma, and Tommy Ton all generated high engagement for the brand. However, the greatest impact for Loewe came from Victoria Song, leader of the K-Pop girl group f(x), who accounted for nearly 40% of the brand s engagement during fashion month. 17
18 IMAGE: VOGUE.COM LOOKING ahead Fashion month is over for now, but spring fashion month will be here before you know it. How can you analyze what was trending on the runway and determine how it resonate with your consumer? Trendalytics continually tracks billions of data points to pinpoint patterns across influencer social buzz, online searches, and SKU data. This information is leveraged to provide strategic insights and actionable intelligence for product innovation, sales, marketing, and merchandising. The dynamic nature of this data allows Trendalytics to not only surface rising trends, but also evaluate when a trend is declining or oversaturated in the market. If you would like more information on this report or other tips from Trendalytics, contact your designated digital strategist. FASHION MONTH KPIs 1. Which brands and styles had high online search volume during fashion month? Are searches increasing or has growth slowed? What are the search terms paired with each trend? 2. What are industry influencers saying about these trends and designers? Is social buzz high or low? Are social actions still rising after fashion month? 3. Are runway trends oversaturated in the market? Which brands and designers are pushing each trend? What is the full-price vs. discount penetration? 4. What silhouettes are gaining traction from the runway collections? Which next generation styles are emerging from these trend? 5. How wearable are these looks for different ages and body types? Will these trends be versatile enough to appeal to your consumer? MARRYING THE ART AND SCIENCE OF RETAIL For more information visit trendalytics.co
19 FURTHER reading: MARRYING THE ART AND SCIENCE OF RETAIL For more information visit trendalytics.co
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