Focus: Facial care. Ingredients Close-up: First peptide used for cosmetic application. Markets Middle East: Trends affecting brand development

Transcription

1 E51280 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING Ingredients Close-up: First peptide used for cosmetic application Markets Middle East: Trends affecting brand development Marketing Hair conditioning: Natural and silicone-free Production The challenge of replacing comparable ingredients VIP of the Month Mathias Gempeler from DSM about the future of facial care Focus: Facial care 9/2015

2 Tenerife Spain Step by step to perfectly even skin tone EFFECT ON MELANIN CONTENT OF DARK SPOTS 0 weeks 8 weeks BRIGHLETTE marine ingredient acts on the multiple stages of the pigmentation process to consistently reduce the deposition of melanin in the skin. By decreasing melanin accumulation, this new active reduces the size and contrast of the dark spots and evens out the skin tone. An in vivo test at 2% dosage, showed a 61.1% melanin reduction in hyperpigmented skin. A brighter, fair and even complexion appearance. All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation The Lubrizol Corporation.

3 EDITORIAL Exploring niche markets Up until recently, it was oral care products and soaps that have traditionally dominated the C&T market in Muslim countries. However, now, as young Muslim women combine religious practices with fashion, new opportunities are opening up in categories such as colour cosmetics, skin care and hair care. In response to this, a large variety of halal products keep being launched, e.g. halal foundations, blushers, lipsticks, anti-agers and skin whitening products. Nail polish has represented the most challenging product, given that the pigmented layer conflicts with the ablution process Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face PS: Our QR codes and our tablet compatible e-paper will take you directly to TV-clips, downloads, book tips and more for Islamic prayers. According to Islamic guidelines, each corner of the nail needs to come into contact with water. To overcome this requirement, formulations with a permeable texture have been created. These allow water to pass through. What are the challenges for multinationals in the halal category? For multinationals there are two sides to the coin, according to Oru Mohiuddin, Senior Research Analyst Beauty and Personal Care from Euromonitor. On the one hand, there is the prospect of breaking new ground. On the other hand, however, it is all about protecting one s shares. While multinationals would benefit from scaling up operations in halal beauty, there are a number of challenges to be overcome. One of the challenges concerning halal offerings is that consumers are more likely to connect with a local niche brand than a distant multinational that has its headquarters in a non-muslim country and produces in bulk for a diverse consumer base. To succeed, multinationals need to develop a distinct brand identity and clear marketing messages. And this needs to be done on top of the process of certifying products as halal. Furthermore, for a more targeted portfolio it is necessary to develop a good understanding of Islamic rituals. Our article by Stephane Le Moullec from Butterfly London shows you on page 24 f. what other societal changes have to be kept in mind in order to successfully enter this new niche market. But the issue is not only about niche markets. After all, the focus this time is facial care. We have compiled a number of interesting aspects that show you what future trends will dominate this segment. Our interviews with Dr. Mathias Gempeler from DSM (page 10 ff.) and Tony Jaillot from BASF (page 20) provide an insight into the conclusions they draw from a global, as well as from a local, perspective and explain what their most innovative product offerings are in this field. Of course, if you want to make sure that your new product development is successful, sometimes it can be a good idea to replace certain ingredients, e.g. when one of your suppliers is not able to supply the required ingredient. All the challenges involved in this replacement process are tackled in the article by Dr. Stefan Müller from Cosmetic Consulting on page 34 f. Apart from this, there is a large variety of other topics you need to know about for the business of creating ever more captivating products. So we do hope that you enjoy finding out more about them. Source: White paper: Doing Business in the Halal Market - Products, Trends and Growth Opportunities, Euromonitor Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Sincerely yours Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA Follow us on: COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 3

4 26 Powerful solutions for current customer demands 48 Noteworthy solutions in colour cosmetics Contents 14 What makes the first peptide used in cosmetic application special? 40 What to expect from this year s IFSCC in Zurich 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Facial care 10 Interview with Mathias Gempeler, DSM: Mapping the future of skin care 14 Interview with Olga Gracioso, Sederma: First peptide for cosmetics 16 Marc Eeman et al., Dow Corning Shanghai: Silicone film formers An answer to skin care trends 20 Interview with Tony Jaillot, BASF: Global trends in a nutshell 22 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches Marketing 24 Stephane Le Moullec, Butterfly: Beauty in the Middle East Trends affecting brand development 26 Impag Ingredients serving today s consumer needs st DGK symposium in Darmstadt Sun protection and more 33 Star of the Month: Expert tool for more precise application PRODUCTION 34 Dr Stefan Müller, Cosmetic Consulting: Replacing comparable ingredients Mastering the challenges 36 Ulrike Marx, NCD, et al.: Natural and silicone-free hair conditioning A green approach 38 Interview with Laurent Chaisemartin, Greentech: A look behind the scenes The story of hydrosoluble PEG-free oils 40 IFSCC 2015 in Zurich More facts, fewer illusions 42 New Ingredients 46 Cosmetic Business 2015 What was new? 48 MakeUp in Paris 2015 Fascinating facets of colour cosmetics 50 Packaging News 52 Latest developments Tubes you can smell SERVICES 6 Download List Formulations: Body Care Events News 59 Events Diary 60 Suppliers Guide 64 International B2B Exchange 65 Advertisers Index 65 Masthead Page 66 Preview 66 Trend statement by Claudia Täffler, Straub Cosmetics Leading articles Front cover picture: Bochkarev Photography, Shutterstock.com

5 Customers of OPTIMA expect flexibility and assurance. And not only from our machines. Logical. Riccardo Favara Bachelor of Engineering (Sales Manager) For us at Optima Consumer, it is only natural that the responsible salesperson will make a precise picture of the status of a project. Not just from their desk, but directly at the machine. After all, we want you to be in the picture at all times. Because trust isn t everything. It s the only thing. FACHPACK, Nuremberg 09/29/15-10/01/15 Halle 2 Booth 213 OPTIMA consumer GmbH Geschwister-Scholl-Straße Schwaebisch Hall Germany Telefon info@optima-consumer.com Member of

6 SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subsribers Click through our Web TV clips: informs about the most important trends impacting on the cosmetics industry. photo:konstantin Yuganov, Shutterstock.com COSSMA Download-Tipp in September Surfactants for new ecological formulation concepts Clariant s new GlucoTain range of sugar-based surfactants offers good performance as well as additional sensory benefits. Thus, it helps formulators develop innova-tive products and platforms based on sulfate-free, CAPB-free and EO-free formulations for a wide range of applications. COSSMA subscribers can download further background information. Sugar-based multifunctional surfactants with additional sensory benefits... talks about what effect cosmetics products can have on dermal stem cells.... explains how he and his team developed the award-winning active ingredient Matrixyl. Top-Downloads for September Market Data: GFK Survey Satisfaction with your looks Ingredient Information: Emulgade (BASF) Video: In-Cosmetics Launches 2015 Formulation: FrizzFight Cream (Bayer/Covestro) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotolia.de talks about what gave him as a packaging designer the idea to put live back into this brand. Downloads Additional information at or you just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at 6 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

7 Discover GlucoPure SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure : innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners. GlucoPure is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a Renewable Carbon Index of up to 95%. VISIT US AT SEPAWA 2015 FULDA/GERMANY OCTOBER 14 16, BOOTH

8 NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES BCG Baden-Baden Cosmetics: Hermann Crux Dr. Hobein: Dr Andreas Fitzner Elizabeth Arden: JuE Wong L Oréal Paris Germany: Eva Leihener-Stefan and Anna Weste Maesa: Robert Haskovec People BCG Baden-Baden Cosmetics Group The international group of investors DYA Holding has taken over BCG Baden-Baden Cosmetics Group. Hermann Crux, representative of this investor group, will head the company as CEO. He has acquired experience in the international consumer goods industry for many years. His most recent position was Chairman of the Management Board at Colgate Palmolive in Hamburg and at Gaba in Lörrach. Jens Stahmann, who most recently worked for Varta Microbattery as CFO as well as head of finance at Constantin Medien, has been appointed CFO. The BCG Baden-Baden Cosmetics Group no longer operate as an AG, but is now a GmbH. Dr. Hobein (Nachf.) Dr Andreas Fitzner is the new head of medicinal skin care at Dr. Hobein (Nachf.). He succeeds Dr Scarlett Sustmann (the former head of R&D), who died in June He acquired his skills in cosmetics with brands such as Doetsch Grether in Switzerland, as well as with the private label companies Dalli and Luhns. He will be responsible for the extension of the Eubos product portfolio, which includes the ranges Anti Age Hyaluron, Dry Skin Children and Dry Skin Urea. Elizabeth Arden JuE Wong is the new President of the Elizabeth Arden Brand. JuE Wong was previously Chief Executive Officer of StriVectin and Astral Brands and also held several leadership positions for brands including N.V. Perricone M.D. Cosmeceuticals and Murad. She has significant international expertise in developing markets, particularly in Asia, and opening new distribution channels. The Company recently signed a joint venture agreement for the Southeast Asia region with Lux asia, which is a prestige beauty distributor with specific expertise in Asia, and expects to commence operations in the first fiscal quarter of The expertise of the Luxasia Group in Asia is designed to allow the company to better deploy the Elizabeth Arden brand in the prestige distribution and to provide the fragrance brands John Varvatos and Juicy Couture with broader geographical prestige distribution in the fast growing Asian fragrance market. Elizabeth Arden, the global prestige beauty products company, which has an extensive portfolio of prestige beauty brands, is sold in over 120 countries. The Company s brand portfolio includes Elizabeth Arden skin care, colour and fragrance products; its professional skin care line, Elizabeth Arden PRO; the celebrity fragrance brands of Justin Bieber, Mariah Carey, Nicki Minaj and Taylor Swift; the designer fragrance brands of Juicy Couture, John Varvatos and Wildfox Couture; and the heritage fragrance brands of Alfred Sung, Britney Spears, Curve, BCBGMAXAZ- RIA, Elizabeth Taylor, Geoffrey Beene, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Halston, Ed Hardy, Jennifer Aniston, Lucky Brand, Rocawear, PS Fine Cologne and White Shoulders. L Oréal Paris Germany Eva Leihener-Stefan has been appointed Managing Director of L Oréal Paris, Germany s L Oréal brand with the highest sales. Succeeding Anna Weste, who is now taking parental leave, she will be reporting to Nathalie Roos, Managing Director of the L Oréal Group Germany. In 2014 Anna Weste and her team acquired one million new consumers for the L Oréal Paris brand and a total of 116 million products were sold in Germany. Maesa The globally active Maesa Group has acquired p2 Cosmetics based in Vienna. This brand is exclusively produced in Europe. The business of the brand will be continued by the existing team. Robert Haskovec, who has worked with the company for many years, has been appointed Managing Director. Procter & Gamble David S. Taylor, Group President of Global Beauty, Grooming and Health Care, will succeed Alan George Lafley as Procter & Gamble s President and Chief Executive Officer in November. He has also been appointed to the Company s Board of Directors. David Taylor joined the company in He has helped to build many of P&G s core businesses and has worked in North America, Europe and Asia. Most recently, he served as Group President of Global Beauty, Grooming and Health Care. In November, Lafley will become the company s Executive Chairman and lead the Board of Directors. He served as CEO from 2000 to 2009 and returned from retirement to serve as CEO in He has played a central role in doubling the company s sales and nearly tripling its market capitalisation. Shiseido Marc Rey has been appointed President & [Berlin, Germany October [ The International natural & organic cosmetics market Up to date: Facts solutions perspectives International Top-Experts Consumer Insights German<> English simultaneous translation Organizer: In Cooperation with: l COSSMA 9 I 2015

9 MARKETS + PROFILES NEWS Procter & Gamble: David S. Taylor Shiseido: Marc Rey and Roxana Daver Twincraft: Brian Dunlop Vantage: Sven Kirsch Yes To: Ingrid Jackel tions of the company s six regions. Shiseido was founded in 1872 as the first Western-style pharmacy in Japan. The business gradually evolved into a cosmetics company, offering people advanced technology and one of the finest aesthetics available in the East or the West. Shiseido s global selection of skin care, make-up and fragrance includes a high-performance category for special skin care and a brightening line. Shiseido also offers body care, sun care and a skin care line for men. After more than 140 years in business, Shiseido group brands are now sold in over 120 countries and regions. Twincraft Twincraft Skincare, contract manufacturer of soaps and skincare products since 1972, has added 25 new employees in the second quarter of With more than 20 years of industry experience, Brian Dunlop joins Twincraft as a Senior Package Developer. As Director of Business Development, Arkady Sokolov is responsible for customers in the metro New York market. Vantage Specialty Ingredients After having joined Simon & Werner as an apprentice in 1998, Sven Kirsch first worked for the company for Customer Services in the field of textile dyes, additives and lubricants, before serving as the Sales Manager in the field of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, detergents and household cleaners. He has now joined the company Vantage Specialty Ingredients (previously known as Lipo Chemicals) as the Account Manger of Northern Europe and is responsible for the cosmetics division. Yes To Ingrid Jackel is joining Yes To, the makers of stylish CEO of Shiseido Americas. He succeeds Heidi Manheimer, who has resigned. In addition to this role, he will also have global brand responsibility for Nars Cosmetics and Bare Escentuals as Global Strategic Brand Holder for these brands. He previously served as President of Coty USA and Regional Senior Vice President of North America. He will also manage Shiseido s brands and businesses in the U.S., including Shiseido Cosmetics America and Beauté Prestige International USA, as well as the company s subsidiaries in Canada and Brazil. Roxana Daver has been appointed as Senior Vice President, Global Business Development and Coordination. As Shiseido, in line with its mid-tolong term strategy Vision 2020, shifts empowerment to the regions, Daver will assist Masahiko Uotani, President and CEO of Shiseido, in coordinating the overall global business operaand fun natural beauty products found in over 25,000 stores worldwide, as Chief Executive Officer. In her new role, Jackel will oversee the company s further expansion of its North American and international business. Previously Jackel held a variety of positions including Chief Executive Officer, President and Chairwoman at Physicians Formula, which under her leadership established itself as one of the top ten fastest-growing cosmetic companies in the Food/ Drug/Mass channel. Prior to this, she served in a variety of leadership roles in the U.S. and France for cosmeceutical brands such as Avene, Elancyl and A-Derma of the Pierre Fabre Group. Founded in 2006, Yes To, Inc. is a San Francisco-based global natural skin and hair care brand with 6 affordable, 95% natural product ranges made with unusual blends of fruits, vegetables and botanical extracts. COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 9

10 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS Mapping the future of skin care Mathias Gempeler, Head of Global Skin Care Marketing at DSM, talked to COSSMA about the latest global and regional trends in facial skin care, the latest trends in active ingredients and peptides, as well as the company s most exciting recent studies. Highly active micro-droplets delivered by pipette and based on analysis of the customer s genome enjoy customer appeal What are the most important global trends in face care at the moment? Mathias Gempler, Head of Global Skin Care Marketing, DSM: We are constantly tracking not only global product trends but also those specific to the regions of the world in order to anticipate future personal care requirements and to be able to provide the solutions our customers need to meet people s expectations. photo: Olga Ekaterincheva Many of today s consumers are on a quest for novel skin care experiences, a trend we like to call Serum Fever. People want high-value products specifically tailored to their personal needs, scientifically proven products that look the part and cater to individual application preferences. Such products might come in the form of highly active micro-droplets delivered by pipette and based on analysis of the customer s genome, or as pearls and gels shown to act on the cellular level, for instance. We are also seeing important changes in attitudes to anti-ageing care, which could be summed up as Anti-ageing Out Pro-ageing In. This describes an observed shift away from micro-managing wrinkles and towards a positive affirmation of healthy maturity: We want to age well. Positive ageing requires the early adoption of holistic strategies that support the skin s own regenerative functions to delay the appearance of visible signs of ageing. However, long-term solutions are not the answer in every case, and there is no one-size fits all solution to facial care. The eye contour is a perfect example of a small but important area of skin with very special needs. We ourselves are currently developing a fast-acting eye care active that will deliver anti-ageing and multiple other benefits to the eye contour area. Finally, the role played by product presentation in the pleasure and sense of wellbeing we derive from skin care products should not be underestimated. Exciting colours, fragrances and consistencies stimulate the desire to experiment, while pipettes, cushions and masks intrigue and excite. Our dedicated team of experts evaluates all our formulations for their sensory qualities and ensures that applying them is an absolutely pleasant delight. 10 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

11 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: FACIAL CARE What regions are particularly innovative at the moment in the facial care field? While there are lots of new ideas coming from all over the world in Europe, for instance, France seems to be producing some very innovative products the Asian region is probably the most dynamic in terms of our industry. Japan was the first to make a major impact but has since been overtaken by Korea, currently a hotbed of innovation. However, the Chinese market is growing and increasingly self-confident, turning to its own medicinal and cosmetic traditions for inspiration rather than looking solely to the West. So what are the most innovative trends coming from Asia at the moment? In China we are seeing a growth in the popularity of face masks, for example. Chinese women seem to love the ceremony attached to applying the mask, which offers a little welcome pampering at an affordable price. In Korea we have seen a rise in the popu- A white asparagus extract proved to delay cellular ageing by stimulating the skin s autophagy capabilities photo: DSM larity of fluid foundations, sunscreens and other skin formulas supplied as sponge cushions in elegant compacts that people fall in love with and also like to be seen with. The dynamic Asian market is interested above all in fast-acting products that provide instantly visible results, with high-quality ingredients backed by reliable claim substantiation. Similarly, multi-functionality is highly prized among Asian consumers who appreciate products offering a combination of ingredients and benefits. What do you see as the latest trends in active ingredients? As in the Asian market, we see a generalized trend towards holistic benefits and multi-functionality. Hence the concepts our company creates combine instant benefits with a strong, evidence-based, mid- and long-term effect, and blend ingredients to enhance both the look and feel of skin. Our rapidly expanding Corneocare innovation platform includes actives that improve epidermal function, strengthen skin barrier integrity and energize skin on the cellular level, as well as providing long-term hydration and instant relief for sensitive skin. A growing awareness of the external threat from UV radiation is also leading to increased incorporation of sun filters into skin care products. This trend, which started with BB and CC creams, places considerable demands on the ingenuity of formulators: filters must meet stringent regulatory requirements while maintaining the pleasant feel of the product on the skin. In response, our application experts are constantly working on formulations, combining our Parsol sun protection line of ingre-

12 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS The natural Alpaflor Edelweiss ingredient has been demonstrated to stimulate key genes and proteins responsible for epidermal protection dients for UV protection with an appealing selection of other actives and sensory modifiers from our portfolio to enhance the sensorial elegance of the finished skin care products. In parallel with these technically sophisticated innovations, we are also seeing a revival in more traditional, tried-and-trusted ingredients like retinol and niacinamide, multi-functional vitamins which enjoy the advantage of well-established safety profiles and are already approved by regulators across the globe. Further, natural ingredients like our own Alpaflor Edelweiss which has been demonstrated to specifically stimulate key genes and proteins responsible for epidermal protection, yet fully meets requirements for natural and organic labeling, as well as complying with the highest sustainability standards continue to arouse considerable interest in the markets. What are the latest trends in the field of peptides? This is a key area of research for us and one which we believe has huge market potential. Although already an established feature of the skin care market, peptides have until now been reserved primarily for high-end anti-ageing products. However, our pioneering competences in peptide technology and expertise in skin function are now opening up exciting avenues of exploration relating to new skin parameters. We already have a number of innovative products in the pipeline and are also examining options for integrating novel peptides into diverse blends and combination products, in line with the trend towards the holistic benefits and multi-functionality I described earlier. photo: DSM The active ingredient based on asparagus reduces collagen loss and dermis thinning photo: DSM Downloads Additional information can be found at you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face What are your company s most innovative offers in the field of facial care, and why? We recently sent researchers to China to learn directly from women there about their beauty concerns and aspirations. Interestingly, we found significant differences in the anti-ageing skin care priorities of Asian and Caucasian women. For Chinese women, loss of skin elasticity, especially in the skin of the cheeks and neck, enlarged pores and uneven skin tone, seem to be of greater concern than the appearance of wrinkles. We therefore conducted a new efficacy study into skin structure with our Syn-Coll peptide which confirmed that it refines pore appearance and gives a lifted, sculpted look, perfectly meeting the specific needs of this ethnic group. In the context of pro-ageing, cellular ageing and senescence have recently been very much in the spotlight. Our own research in this field led to the development of Regu-Scence, a pure white asparagus extract from asparagus grown in the Navarra region of Spain which proved to be highly effective in delaying cellular ageing by stimulating the skin s autophagy capabilities. In-vivo studies confirmed that it reduces the appearance of two major signs of skin ageing: collagen loss and dermis thinning. Since autophagy also plays a key role in the regulation of pigment production and hence skin tone, this active ingredient is proving to be another multi-functional active with special ethnic relevance. As a natural ingredient obtained from renewable sources, it too meets rigorous sustainability requirements and is also China-compliant. And last but not least, our recently launched Valvance builds on our dedication to a holistic beauty experience where appearance and sensation are equally important. This breakthrough range of sensory and visual modifiers the only sensory line with cross-segmental roots again guarantees strong fast results with the assurance of a fully substantiated consumer benefit. What have been your company s most exciting recent studies in the field of skin care? Our most exciting areas of research recently are linked to the studies in China I already mentioned, and to the search for differentiated solutions to face care concerns. Working with our partners at the Sefako Makgatho University in South Africa; Newtone Technologies in France; and AVR Consulting in the UK, our researchers recently revealed that the facial skin hydration and skin barrier properties of Chinese, Caucasian, Indian and Black African female subjects are immensely complex. We visualized our findings using a novel continuous colour mapping approach with high-resolution digital images. This revealed that remarkable skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) gradients exist within short distances on selected areas of the face. Moreover these gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. We are currently running a follow-up study in which we are investigating the selective effects of a moisturizer on facial skin properties. This will help us better understand which particular zones of the face require more efficacious treatments an approach that will unquestionably have a major impact on global and regional concepts for innovative face care products. mathias.gempeler@dsm.com Additional information and formulations can be found on the Internet see Internet panel 12 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

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14 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS First peptide for cosmetics Matrixyl, the first peptide used for personal care applications, scooped the 25 Years of Innovation Award that recognises the personal care ingredient with the greatest impact on the personal care ingredients market in the last quarter-century at this year s In-Cosmetics in Barcelona. COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss wanted to know from Olga Gracioso from Sederma what makes this ingredient so unique. Award-winning peptide Matrikines with their visible effects on wrinkles are an alternative to filler injections photo: Svetography, Shutterstock.com Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner with Lucy Gilliam on the left and Olga Gracioso on the right received the 25 Years of Innovation Award for Matrixyl, the first peptide used for personal care applications, at this year s In-Cosmetics. The award recognises the personal care ingredient that has had the greatest impact on the personal care ingredients market in the last quarter-century. photo: Angelika Meiss Could you please tell us about the origins of Matrixyl? Olga Gracioso, Marketing Director, Sederma: In the early 90s, the bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) crisis, commonly known as mad cow disease, led to the need for the cosmetic industry to expunge their portfolio of actives with a risk of animal contamination and to look for syn thetic alternatives. At that time, Sederma started to investigate synthetic peptides for anti-ageing properties based on their activity in wound healing. Indeed, wrinkles can be considered as wounds of the dermis. Treating wrinkles as wounds was the initial hypo thesis that led Dr. Karl Lintner to design synthetic bioavailable lipopeptides for cosmetic use. In 2000, Sederma launched Matrixyl*, a matrikine also known as microcollagen. Mentioned for the first time in 1999 by Prof. François-Xavier Maquart, the term matrikine designates a small endogenous molecule composed of a short sequence of amino-acids. This peptide, derived from the surrounding extracellular matrix proteolysis, generates a signal in order to regulate cell activity. In the case of Matrixyl, its five amino-acid chain based on the amino-acid sequence of collagen linked to a 16-carbon chain for improving the bioavailability to the skin constitutes a natural messenger that triggers collagen synthesis from the fibroblasts. By creating an active ingredient dedicated to act on an identified target to stimulate the synthesis of specific molecules, Sederma entered a new era for cosmetics: the cosmeceutical era. Instead of providing the skin with exogenous molecules we were able to support the synthesis of the skin s own molecules. This peptide was especially designed to reproduce natural metabolisms, and its mechanism of action is perfectly known. Furthermore, thanks to its visible effects, it was perceived as a good alternative to filler injections in the fight against wrinkles. This ground-breaking molecule contributed 14 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

15 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: FACIAL CARE to the rise of the beauty from the inside trend. Today, peptides are not only recognised for their efficacy in fighting ageing signs but they are also used for many other cosmetic applications, such as bust firming, stretch-marks, and hair loss and volume enhancing This peptide was the precursor of peptide use for cosmetic applications. Could you please describe each member of the Matrixyl range? The product range includes also Matrixyl 3000 which is based on 2 lipopeptides: a palmitoyl tripeptide and a palmitoyl tetrapeptide and Matrixyl synthe 6, a palmitoyl tripeptide based on a new amino acid sequence. Matrixyl 3000 is available in various different versions including Matrixyl 3000 Lipo, which is oil soluble, and Matrixyl 3000 Free, which does not contain any ethoxylated excipient. All the products of the range have been extensively tested both in vitro and in vivo. Matrixyl was the first active cosmetic ingredient to undergo a six-month study: The surface occupied by deep wrinkles was reduced by 67.8%, p<0.01. With Matrixyl 3000, the surface occupied by deep wrinkles on the crow s feet is reduced by 39.4%, p<0.01 after 2 months. Matrixyl synthe 6 has been demonstrated to stimulate the synthesis of six major constituents of the skin matrix and dermal epidermal junction. It helps reduce the wrinkle volume on the forehead by 31%, p=0.055, up to 100% after 2 months. And as a picture is worth more than a thousand words, the illustrations demonstrate the visible effects of Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl synthe 6. What were the most recent study results concerning the range? Mid 2011, a new proof of the efficiency of Matrixyl 3000 was released. Its ability to help repair the UV damage-prone papillary dermis was demonstrated. The papillary dermis, located just under the dermis/epidermis junction (DEJ), is more fragile than the reticular dermis and is intensely affected by photo-ageing. Since papillary fibroblasts are fundamental to promote epidermal morphogenesis and wound healing, that is why papillary dermis repair delivers visible anti-wrinkle benefits. In vivo studies have re- vealed the positive matrix reinforcing effect of this active ingredient by measuring the SLEB density (Subepidermal Low Echogenic Band that corresponds to the papillary dermis). A significant improvement corresponding to a reduction in age of 1.8 years was visible in just one month, and confirmed after 2 months: the photo-induced ageing was then delayed by 5.5 years. Another analysis of the papillary dermis by confocal laser microscopy has shown that this peptide helps reduce the fibre fragmentation and notably supports the reconstruction of the papillary dermal fibre network. This new test confirmed the protective and repairing effect against photo-induced ageing of this active ingredient. Early in 2013, a complementary approach confirmed that this substance exerts a repairing effect on the cutaneous damages of ageing. This time its ability to reverse chronological ageing was demonstrated with both in vitro and ex vivo studies. First, this active ingredient has been shown to regulate the expression of well-known (SAß-galactosidase) and recently discovered (progerin) markers of senescence by reducing the SAß-galactosidase activity and the progerin expression while preserving the expression of the normal form lamin A**. Then, immunohistochemistry analysis of skin sections (ex vivo study) has proven that it significantly stimulates synthesis of Collagen-I, -IV, -VII, -XVII and Nidogen-I proteins. While these proteins of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction usually decreased with age, this matrikine rejuvenated the dermal structure and tended to make ageing skin behave like young skin. It restores the cutaneous metabolism of youth with visible repairing effects: decreased wrinkle appearance, improved skin tone and elasticity. Are there any areas that have not yet been explored and might hold potential for the future? Yes. The skin is a very complex and sophisticated organ. So it contains thousands of potential targets that are involved in modulating its various metabolisms and processes. Recently scientific research teams have unveiled the role of micrornas (mirnas) in the body and specifically in the skin. MiRNAs are small ribonucleic acid The visible effects of Matrixyl 3000 (left) and Matrixyl synthe 6, showing day 1 on the left and after 2 months on the right Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face molecules that can switch on or off the synthesis of proteins via their corresponding gene. The mirnas are involved in various biological processes, including cell proliferation and cell death during development, stress resistance, and fat metabolism. The effect of certain peptides on mirna expression constitutes a promising and innovative avenue for tissue regeneration for example. Will the line be extended and if yes for what cosmetic area? The potential cosmetic benefits of the biomimetic peptides of the range are outstanding, so we ll definitely complete the range. Our teams are working hard on offering an innovative product to fulfill end-user s expectations. We will tell you more about it very soon. *INCI: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 **Lamins are key proteins in the cutaneous regenerative process. Progerin is an altered form whose expression rises at the same time as skin ageing signs appear and intensify. Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel photos: Sederma COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 15

16 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS Silicone film formers An answer to skin care trends According to recent studies, Dow Corning s silicone film formers can play a role in providing a skin tightening effect, helping to lift and firm the face. The invisible film on the skin provides a tightening sensation and instant smoothing appearance photo: Vita Khorzhevska, Shutterstock.com Key benefits of specialty silicones Since their first use in skin care products, silicones have evolved from materials that simply provide improved tactile properties to those that also serve a highly specialized range of functions. An important function of specialty silicones is their versatile film forming properties. In addition to providing long-lasting wear without negatively impacting comfort, they can provide skin tightening, skin protection and resistance to rub-off while being non-occlusive. At the same time, consumers look for advances that result in products tailored to a variety of skin types, ages, and ethnicities and that increasingly focus on moisturizing and hydration, anti-ageing performance and even protection from pollution. Film-forming attributes are strongly influenced by the chemical composition and physical characteristics of polymeric materials. For that reason, in-depth evaluations are a vital step along the pathway to formulating success. A variety of test methods help characterize the properties of silicone films to assess how they will behave in finished products. For example, contact angle measurements help determine water and sebum repellency. The higher the contact angle, the greater water or sebum repellency the film exhibits. Most silicone-based film-forming technologies show high water and sebum contact angle values (ca. 100 for water and for sebum) much higher than common organic film-forming technologies such as polyurethanes and polyacrylates (60 80 for water and for sebum). Permeability to water vapour can be judged by measuring water loss through a collagen film that has been coated with a silicone film former. In general, silicone technologies are recognized as very permeable to water vapour 1, indicating that when applied on skin they do not prevent skin from maintaining its breathability. 16 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

17 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: FACIAL CARE Integrity of films can be determined by assessing the diffusion of a dye through a silicone film coated on a collagen membrane. Silicone MQ resins are known to form brittle films and, as a result, dye migration is instantaneous. Although silicone acrylates and silicone resin gums display greater film integrity than MQ resins, the best film barrier properties are observed for pure silicone T-propyl resin and for silicone gums. Film flexibility can be evaluated by coating a rubber band with silicone. Upon drying, the rubber band is extended and released to determine whether cracks develop in the silicone film. Silicone gums and silicone resin gums display higher film flexibility than silicone resins and silicone acrylates. Although MQ resins form brittle films, T-propyl resins form soft, flexible films. Durability properties can be assessed by exposing the silicone film to friction insults on a felt band and by monitoring the amount of silicone remaining on the film by X-ray fluorescence or colourimetry. A higher percentage value indicates greater resistance to rub-off. Although silicone resins exhibit considerable benefits, the most outstanding rub-off resistance is obtained from silicone acrylate technology. A new approach to film formers Among the film formers based on specialty silicones, a newly developed silicone film-former technology based on trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer (Dow Corning FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum) is designed to form a breathable, flexible film at the skin surface with long-lasting properties. Its polymer structure consisting of resin building blocks interconnected by high molecular weight dimethicone segments also shows good water and sebum repellency, as well as transfer resistance for applications Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma9 Password: face beyond colour cosmetics. Dispersed in an isododecane carrier, it performs in water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and anhydrous systems. The film former has been evaluated in colour cosmetics such as foundations, mascaras and eye shadows, and it performs at concentrations as low as 2.5%. As an example, Formulation 1* is a foundation designed for wearing comfort and long-lasting color. It also contains a UVB sunscreen. A new role: protection from pollution A recent study suggested that particulate matter from pollution could cause an increase in pigment spots on the forehead and cheeks 2. This type of pigmentation is commonly associated with ageing. In a search for a preventive way to counteract the effects of pollution particles on skin, the well-known mechanism of the lotus leaf (Nelumbo nucifera) was used as an inspiration to develop formulations with protection against pollution particles. Because the surface of the lotus leaf has very little affinity with both water and solid particulates, water does not wet it well, but rather forms droplets that roll over and pick up dirt particles, removing them from the leaf. This extreme water repellency behaviour, often referred to as the lotus effect, is IBR-PRISTINIZER Natural extract of a desert flower Anti-Pollution: effective shield against pollution Anti-Aging: significant anti-wrinkle effect for smooth and elastic skin Innovation: clinical study on heavy smokers Distributed by IMPAG Import GmbH Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 D Offenbach am Main Tel.: + 49 (0) Fax: + 49 (0) kosmetik@impag.de Web: Produced by IMPAG Group Country Offices Switzerland / Zurich Germany / Offenbach France / Nancy Poland / Warsaw COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 17 Austria / Vienna

18 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS Lotus leaf mechanism inspired formulations with silicone film formers that protect against pollution particles photo: Miss Kanithar Aiumla-Or, Shutterstock.com Advantages Consumer advantages Can be formulated in oil-in-water, water-in-oil Resin gum film-former performance available and anhydrous systems, available in three through different formulation textures and carriers (isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane, sensory characteristics or dimethicone, 1.5 cst) for formulation ease and manufacturing flexibility Good film flexibility Comfortable to wear Very high sebum repellency and high Long-lasting performance for consumerwater repellency preferred skin-care regime and make-up High rub-off resistance High transfer resistance for long-lasting colour Permeable to water vapour Non-occlusive, to allow skin breathability function Primary characteristics of the new silicone film-former FC-5002 IDD called superhydrophobicity and stems from specific surface characteristics at a microscopic level 3-5. The approach of the studies recently was to create such a superhydrophobic film on the skin using silicone film formers. Leveraging the intrinsic properties of silicones, it relied on creating surface micro-roughness (such as that on the lotus leaf) without having to incorporate solid particles into the cosmetic formulation. Such a surface topography could be obtained by Versatile silicone film formers Film formers generally correspond to polymeric materials that are able to form a solid film over a surface while being delivered by a carrier. A broad spectrum of silicone film formers is available for skin care, sun care, and colour cosmetic applications, including gums, acrylates, resins, resin waxes and resin gums. When formulators consider silicone film formers to help create next-generation skin care and cosmetic products, they look closely at the need for various film characteristics. Some products benefit from films that are hard and protective, while others must be soft, yet durable. For flexibility in product development, formulators may also need to consider specific carriers as prerequisites for use with other ingredients. To achieve specialized film functions, different silicone families offer water and sebum repellency, water vapor permeability, film flexibility, or durability. Because silicone film formers are compatible with a broad range of cosmetic ingredients, formulators already have a head start toward successful product development. formulating either of two silicone film formers, namely acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer (Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate) or C alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C 30 Resin Wax), into appealing modern cosmetic preparations. As expected from the well-defined surface micro-roughness, those formulations led to a significant reduction in carbon particle adhesion in vitro. This observation demonstrates that our company s silicone film formers can help formulators create multifunctional cosmetic, skin care and sun care products that provide skin with protection from airborne carbon particles. Silicone film formers for anti-ageing products In another new application for specialty silicone materials, recent research demonstrated that silicone film formers can play a role in providing skin tightening effect, helping to lift and firm the face. Now formulators can create anti-ageing skin care products that not only provide an instantaneous tightening sensation, but also ensure comfort. Our Formulation 2* is a hydrogel that leaves an invisible film on the skin, yet provides a tightening sensation and instant smoothing appearance. In addition, a skin-firming effect was also observed and testing documented that the formulation was easy to remove after wearing. Gains of multiple filmforming technologies Due to their unique set of properties, silicone film-forming technologies can provide a realm of benefits expected from a film former in skin care and colour cosmetic products. Both formulators and consumers can benefit from the use of these materials. Formulators have the advantage of multiple silicone film-forming technologies for greater versatility, and those materials can be matched with a broad selection of carriers to enable formulation and manufacturing flexibility. The range of materials shows good compatibility with common skin care and cosmetic ingredients, so that they can be incorporated easily into a range of product forms. These include new and emerging applications such as skin tightening based on silicone films, and the ability to proactively protect skin from the effects of harmful pollutants. Consumers benefit from the use of non-occlusive materials that also allow skin breathability and good film flexibility for wearing comfort. Good sebum and high water repellency, as well as high rub-off resistance, provide long-lasting benefits and a comfortable daily skin care experience. * The formulations mentioned, references, and additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Marc Eeman Global Leader of Film Formers and Active Delivery, Céline Bougaran, Associate Technical Service Professional, Morgane Le Meur, Technical Service Professional, Jean-Luc Garaud, Associate Technical Service Specialist, Ingrid Vervier, Associate Technical Service Specialist, Isabelle Van Reeth, Industry Scientist, Dow Corning Shanghai, Shanghai, China marc.eeman@dowcorning.com 18 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

19 62. SEPAWA CONGRESS FULDA OCTOBER 2015 NCD INGREDIENTS - STAND AN UNMISTAKABLE CLASS Variati proposes a complete range of ingredients obtained from sustainable and renewable vegetable sources such as Avocado, Mangosteen, Wheat and Rice, and from recycled material deriving from the silk and wool manufacturing processes. Variati Specialties: the ideal choice for Cosmetic Companies that require ingredients with a high functional value. EVOSINA Unique, Natural, Bacteriostatic Active Ingredient (INCI: Sodium Usnate) VARI STAN PE Vegetable anti-bacterial Active Ingredient from Mangosteen (INCI: Propanediol, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract) HYDROVEG R NP Inspired by the Skin NMF without Phenoxyethanol (INCI: Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA, Allantoin, Lactic Acid) AVOGELIA Active Avocado - Natural Active Ingredient, Emulsifier and Emollient (INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Tocopheryl Acetate) NCD Ingredients GmbH simply good Ruhrstr Hanau Germany Fon: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) info@ncd-ingredients.de

20 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS Instant efficacy, epi genetics, microbiome and lifestyle Global trends in a nutshell BASF s active ingredient Epigenist helps the epidermis to reclaim the quality of its youth Tony Jaillot from BASF points out the latest developments in facial care and explains with what ingredients these trends can be matched. Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face photo: BASF What are the most important global trends in facial care at the moment? Tony Jaillot, Director of Marketing Skin Care Europe, BASF, Le Vallois Perret, France: On a global scale, there are currently quite a few interesting trends in face care ranging from poreless, blurring and translucency to high-spf, detox, radiance, nude look and volume management. We see also a lot of Asia-inspired textures, with light and soft feels. Changing textures creamto-oil are a big trend, too. What regions are particularly innovative at the moment in the field of facial care? In principle, new ideas in face care are coming from all regions worldwide. Recently, however, Asia and Europe have been particularly innovative in this field. What are the most innovative trends at the moment coming from Asia? V-Shape which leads to Y-Shape including the décolleté as well as cush- ion creams, facial masks and sleeping packs. What are the latest trends in active ingredients? Instant efficacy, epigenetics, microbiome and last but not least lifestyle which stands for mobility and digital trends as well as urban living. What are your company s most innovative offers in the field of facial care? Lately, we have been constantly complementing our face care and actives portfolio with innovative ingredients; beginning with Cetiol Ultimate, an unusual sensorial dry-feeling emollient, followed by Cosmedia Ace, a new generation polymer for elegant textures, versatility and cost-effectiveness. Our new active ingredient Collrepair DG, for the first time in cosmetics, is able to reverse the consequences of glycation for a radiant look. With Epi genist another good example the epidermis is re-innervated for a youthful appearance. Last but not least, with Dermawhite WF we offer a powerful and affordable new whitening agent. What have been your company s most exciting recent studies in the field of skin care? Recently, we have worked on the functionalization of key skin components (enzymes such as LOX or LOX-L, and mirna) to restore skin homeostasis. We also conducted studies on specific anti-ageing for men, cell senescence, as well as key consumer studies to discover new beauty routines. tony.jaillot@basf.com Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel cared for and healthy! Your ideas, our know-how! 20 l COSSMA 9 I Your competent manufacturer for cosmetics & medical devices! Full-Service Development Documentation Production Fill-up Tubes Bottles Tins Jars Sachets Single-Pack Wet Wipes

21 medical BEAUTY FORUM forms the bridge between research and its practical application in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics For a successful partnership: Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance Published 6 times per annum Reaches more than dermatologists, beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany, Austria and Switzerland Further information: Click here! Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com

22 FOCUS: FACIAL CARE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Latest international launches This month Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Colour Cosmetics Analyst at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative facial care products. The tiny particles of Sulwhasoo s eye cream form a protective barrier Shiseido s concentrate for enhancing skin s multi-defensive power against signs of ageing The Face Shop s firming concentrate is enriched with 85% fermented collagen Peter Thomas Roth s mask transforms from a light blue gel to a white oxygenating foam in 30 seconds Tony Moly s cream with goat milk from New Zealand photos: Mintel GlamGlow s cleanse treatment is designed to provide a multi-sensory mud-to-oil cleansing experience Peter Thomas Roth Brightening Bubbling Mask has been designed to brighten and even all skin types, transforming from a light blue gel to a white oxygenating foam in 30 seconds. When this process starts, the formula releases a skin-brightening cocktail of SymWhite from pine trees, plant-derived GigaWhite, lightening bearberry, mulberry and liquorice extracts, plumping Fiflow, mango butter, and antioxidant vitamins B 5, C and E. GlamGlow PowerMud DualCleanse Treatment is designed to provide a multi-sensory mud-to-oil cleansing experience. The formula features nongreasy and fast-absorbing Oilixer for a nourishing enriching cleanse with emollient prickly pear oil, purifying pine oil, restoring and toning frankincense oil, and renewing myrrh oil; cleansing detoxification system Claytox with Brazilian white clay, quickly absorbed bentonite clay, pure kaolin clay to regulate excess shine, and nourishing bio-mineral green clay; Pureifier for professional skin conditioning with benoitine to improve dermis renewal, hydrolysed yeast amino acid to improve moisture flux, AA2G (ascorbic acid 2-glucoside) to improve colour tone, smoothing rice, and calcium carbonate to improve clog absorption; and Teaoxi with velvet mullein leaf, rich in fatty acids, minerals and saponins to nourish for a velvety finish. The Face Shop The Smim Fermented range provides solutions to eight skin problems through two fermentation processes. Collagen Firming Concentrate is enriched with 85% fermented collagen which, after the second fermentation process, breaks down into smaller compounds to deeply penetrate into skin. Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate is a serum designed for Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face enhancing the skin s inherent multi-defensive power against signs of ageing, environmental factors and daily stress. The fast absorbing, silky formula features a natural green floral fragrance to enhance energy levels while helping the user feel relaxed; Ultimune Complex, to help boost defensive functions that have declined in Langerhans cells; ImuCalm Compound; and a botanical cocktail, including anti-oxidant ginkgo biloba leaf extract, and perilla as well as wild thyme, both with anti-bacterial properties. The Tony Moly Naturalth Goat Milk range is enriched with goat milk from New Zealand. The total care Premium Cream is rich in nutrients to prevent dehydration and strengthen the skin s ability to protect against environmental changes, while offering wrinkle-reducing and whitening benefits. The creamy texture s milk droplets break on the skin to provide rich moisture. It contains ceramide, low molecular weight hyaluronic, and lecithin. The relaunched premium anti-ageing skin care range Sulwhasoo Time- Treasure range is enriched with red pine and De Ageing Active (DAA). Renovating Eye Cream EX features enzyme-modified red ginseng saponin and white ginseng saponin (ginsenoside F1). It contains tiny particles in the form of a net to adhere well on skin and form a protective barrier. Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Emmanuelle Moeglin Global Fragrance and Colour Cosmetics Analyst, Mintel London, England 22 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

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24 MARKETING MARKETS Beauty in the Middle East Trends affecting brand development Stephane Le Moullec from the strategy and innovation agency Butterfly provides a broad regional picture of the beauty trends that are currently making an impact in the Middle East and explains how brands need to adapt. The five societal facts and trends he presents affects how brands have to innovate in order to connect with consumers. photo: Butterfly London The Middle East is beginning to prove itself as an influential region for global trends in beauty and personal care, so it is not surprising that recently brands have started to respond to this booming market. Despite draining financial recessions and political conflicts within the region, men and women in the Middle East are making significantly fewer adjustments in their beauty consumption habits than the rest of the world, and instead it is growing at a consistent rate. When brands want to innovate in order to really connect with consumers needs, it will certainly be helpful to take the following five societal facts and trends into consideration. Youth Youth the ever-growing ge nerations are in fact pushing category boundaries. The next generation are the trendsetters: girls are growing into their beauty, finding their confidence and experimenting with personal care. This is more prevalent in the Middle East than anywhere else in the world; Egypt has a population of 80 million with an average age of 24, whilst in Dubai 60% are under the age of 25. Therefore, it is the younger generation that holds the power in the market. Moreover, young Iranian women spend a staggering 10% of their average monthly salary on beauty products. Brands in the Middle East need to adapt and respond to this demographic with fun and exciting beauty products that embody this generation s expressive personality, even in a context where expression is limited. Digital Self Digital self digital media are an opportunity for self-expression and liberation. Social media play a unique role in the Middle East because they offer women a chance to reveal certain facets of their personality that they are unable to express in day-to-day life. They are used as a community hub in which users learn from and inspire one other by sharing the latest trends, tips and products online. This medium has significantly impacted the Middle East in recent years, with over 71% of Arab women using online platforms. In one of our Saudi research projects, young girls admitted to having multiple Facebook and Instagram accounts so that they could display various looks on each profile, and express their different personalities. Building a sense of community through beauty and personal care is an important part of these women s everyday lives and it enables them to embrace new ways to express themselves. Plastic Surgery Plastic surgery despite con servatism, plastic surgery is on the rise and is embraced not only by women but also by men. Despite the region s religious restrictions on how the body should be both respected and covered, 24 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

25 MARKETS MARKETING the demand for plastic surgery shows considerable growth and has done so for years. Subsequently, it has become increasingly more accessible, affordable and accepted. There are now more cosmetic surgeons per citizen in the UAE than in either Brazil or the United States, two nations lauded for their love of the scalpel. In the last couple of years, Dubai has become the go-to nip-and-tuck hub, not just for international consumers but Middle Eastern women and men who want to have work done closer to home. This growing demand stems not only from the desire to feel more attractive, but is heavily influenced by Westernised celebrities and models portraying unattainable beauties. In comparison to European consumers who would use surgery as a last resort, the Middle Eastern viewpoint is more in line with: I ve gained some weight, I ll have some lipo, and so they will have several treatments to fix something a lifestyle change could achieve more safely. It leaves no doubt that Middle Eastern consumers are health aware but certainly not health active. Men Men are changing their approach to beauty and embracing new grooming rituals. Middle Eastern men have had traditionally negative attitudes towards products and services in the male beauty sector, scorning the idea of unnecessary male vanity and the perceived lack of masculinity. However, evolving generations and westernised influences have caused a growing trend in male personal care and it has now become an essential part of an Arab man s image, with the emphasis on career success and social standing. Middle Eastern men take more interest in their grooming routine and general appearance in order to look younger and build confidence. As a clear response to this growing trend, there has been a growing number of maleonly spas in the Middle East, helping men to take care of themselves, relax and get in touch with their appearance. Virtual shopping versus stationary retail Virtual shopping versus stationary retail. The division inside the region affects how women trust and relate to brands. The booming retail industry in the Gulf has transformed over the last two decades. What was once predominantly family-owned shopping outlets are now gigantic shopping malls, hypermarkets and chains. And it s not just within retail; other areas of the Middle East are growing online, Personal care has now become an essential part of an Arab man s image photo: Diplomedia, Shutterstock.com using digital spaces to shop and purchase globally, allowing consumers to buy almost any beauty product at the touch of their keypad. The disparity of economies within the whole region affects preferences in the way that consumers shop and connect with their products. The Levant region has grown its online market extensively using websites such as and These platforms allow Middle Eastern women to tap into global trends and purchase westernised products more easily, reducing any taboos or judgments that arise from the purchase of culturally sensitive products. Women using online shops are purchasing brands by making informed decisions which are brand led, doing their own research and managing the credibility through consumer reviews. By contrast, the stationary retail trade in GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) is now huge. Dubai malls, known for their lavish architecture, expansion of shops after shops with cinemas, ice rinks, hotels and even ski slopes, are attracting three quarters of a million visitors weekly. During the next decade, the area will continue to materialise as a powerful market for beauty and retail opportunities, as well as attract new interests to the region. Malls and retail outlets are a place for women to take time out, get beauty inspiration, find information, test new products and also showcase their beauty regime. This shopping experience is personal as it allows for connections with products through retail endorsers, beauty experts and face-to-face interactions. Overall, when thinking about Middle East, brands must consider the extensive diversity and fast-paced nature of the region, making it an everevolving market. Beauty brands trying to succeed in the region need to adapt to the cultural differences and embrace its potential for full sensory experiences. Stephane Le Moullec Managing Director, Butterfly London, UK stephane@butterflylondon.com COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 25

26 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Which ingredients provide powerful solutions for current consumer demands? Representatives from Impag, Cobiosa, DuPont, Soliance/ Givaudan, IBR, BASF, and Alfa- Cos provide some compelling insights into current cosmetics trends and provide information on ingredients with convincing performance. Ingredients serving today s consumer needs Products that enhance skin perfection are highly rated photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com What are currently the most important trends in the field of cosmetics? Dr. Vera Maienschein, Managing Director, Impag, Germany: The desire of consumers to not only digitally enhance their photos but also to have perfect, high definition-ready skin in real life is driving the development of new cosmetics products. In order to obtain perfect skin active, ingredients are required that hide skin irregularities and that lastingly reduce skin reddening, impurities, large pores and wrinkles. What is also very fashionable at the moment are highly effective substances that can be used in dermocosmetics or medical skin care. These include products that treat, e.g. scars and stretch marks. There is a strong de- mand for cosmetic products with a high sun protection factor. Yet, at the same time, the contents of these products should be as natural as possible. As a result, the search is on for natural raw materials that are capable of boosting the sun protection factor so that the concentration of classical UV filters can be reduced. Suitability for sensitive skin is still one of the most important advertising claims. Active ingredients that combat neuroinflammation of the skin prove highly effective at reducing skin sensitivity. Shower gels and refreshing creams that offer both a quickly perceptible and a long-lasting freshening effect are in strong demand. This is achieved by specially designed active ingredients that interact directly with certain receptors in the skin. Odour also plays a very important role in skin and hair care. Odour-controlling actives can be used to improve the aroma of a formula as well as to control unpleasant body odours. The desire of many consumers is to maintain the youthful appearance of their skin. One of the triggers of skin ageing, besides UV light, is smoking. There is an anti-ageing active ingredient tested successfully on the skin of heavy smokers which is highly effective at combatting the visible effects of ageing processes. The trend towards raw materials compliant with the requirement of natural cosmetics also comprises high performance thickeners. Systems with a high oil content can thicken formulations. The thus created oil gels form microemulsions when they come into contact with water, and create a light and silky skin feel. 26 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

27 INGREDIENTS MARKETING If you look at the worldwide cosmetic regulation, are there any noticeable problems? Dr. Reto Hess, COO, Impag, Switzerland: I think the biggest problem especially for international players is the fact that there are no general cosmetic regulations that are valid all over the world. However, at least governments all over the world try to harmonise the law a little bit. Of course this trend has been influenced by other regulations like GHS (Globally Harmonised System). What are the main characteristics of this harmonisation? For markets such as Mercosur (Mercado Comun del Sur), SICA (Sistema de la IntegracionCentroamericana) and ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) comprising 25 countries and more than 1 billion people, the European cosmetic legislation is somehow fundamental. However, in the process of each country converting these principles into federal state law, differences creep in which create a disharmony among the different cosmetic legislations. Thus, international players have taken local regulations into consideration in spite of the trend for harmonisation. What are the latest findings in the field of skin regeneration for scars and stretch marks? Alberto Thiebaut, General Manager, Cobiosa, Spain: Marks and scars are impossible to eliminate with cosmetic treatments, but they can help to improve their appearance. In this context, key ingredients are those able to boost the skin s own regeneration mechanisms within their different and complex phases. In this field, there is also a clear trend towards natural products, with already known and demonstrated regenerative properties, whose ancestral use transmits confidence to users. What ingredients can support skin re-generation for scars and stretch marks? Poly Helixan, obtained from the secretion of the Helix Aspersa (Müller), and Dragon s Blood, extracted from the latex of the tree Croton lechleri. Odour-controlling actives can improve unpleasant body odours Both actives are of natural and sustainable origin. photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com How do they work? The process of regeneration of skin damaged either by injury or by a stretch mark formation comprises several complex stages with common features, such as collagen and elastin fibre breakage accompanied by an inflammatory process which involves oxidative stress. The synthesis of new elastic fibres (collagen and elastin) and the migration of new fibroblasts toward the surface and the decrease of the inflammatory process (among others) are part of the wound-healing process. Poly Helixan, thanks to its containing Allantoin, proteins, vitamins A, C and E, collagen and elastin, alpha-hydroxy acids and other active ingredients, stimulates collagen synthesis and skin renewal. It improves skin elasticity and restores the cutaneous architecture. On the other hand, Dragon s Blood is a source of powerful polyphenolic bio-flavonoids (proanthocyanidins) which, together with taspine, lignans, unsaturated fatty acids and pigments, restores damaged collagen, stimulates the formation of new material. It is part of the traditional Peruvian (Inca) medicine. Taspine and proanthocyanidins promote healing by affecting the inflammatory phase, stimulating the proliferation and migration of fibroblast which results in epithelial regeneration. Overproduction of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS & NOS) results in oxidative stress causing cytotoxicity and delayed wound healing. Both actives have a high capacity to sequestrate these radicals. Antioxidants accelerate the process of wound healing by destroying the free radicals. What studies have proven their effect? In addition to many studies made with these two actives, most of which are published both in cosmetic and medical journals, we have performed clinical tests to show their efficacy at wound healing action and improvement of the appearance of scars. The results are quite promising and encouraging. An anti-ageing active ingredient tested successfully on the skin of heavy smokers is highly effective at combatting the visible effects of ageing processes photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 27

28 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Refreshing creams providing long-lasting freshness contain specially designed active ingredients that interact directly with certain receptors in the skin photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com long period of time with additional benefits for the skin or they act as a trigger. These coolants deliver a gentle, long-lasting cooling sensation which reduces the risk of irritation caused by menthol. And what is your offer in the field of odour control agents? We provide a citronellol derivative Sinodor which neutralizes all kinds of bad odours which can be external odours such as cigarette smoke, kitchen odours, permanent smell, and chlorine smell, and it is also effective against body odours, thus making it ideal for deodorants or foot care products, for example. It is also able to reduce the odour of a base formula, in particular the ones caused by oils or fatty acids. What are the most important global trends in the field of sun skin care? Reiner Joos, Account Manager EMEA, DuPont, USA: We see a growing demand for increased SPF in sun care products worldwide. In Europe, Asia and Australia, for products with a high sun protection factor, SPF 50+ is considered standard. In North and South America, these products are being formulated to even higher SPF values. Reaching these SPF levels through the use of mineral pigments alone is impractical. The goal is reached through combining photo-active chemical filters in combination with mineral pigments such as TiO 2 or ZnO. Apart from effective sun protection, consumers who are increasingly concerned about synthetic actives have identified the inclusion of natural or organic ingredients as a high priority. This comes as concerns about synthetic actives are rising. These seemingly conflicting trends represent the main challenge in formulating sun skin care products. The desire for high effectiveness and minimized synthetic actives has placed significant limitations on formulation strategy. SoBind Harmony is the latest innovative solution from DuPont Soy Polymers. This newly developed family of modified soy protein polymers improves light scattering of mineral pigments and boosts the effectiveness of photo actives. This Ecocert and NaTrue certified ingredient is manufactured with the help of a unique process aligned with global regulatory requirements and sustainability. It provides maximum functionality in sun skin care formulations in a cost effective way. These polymers also provide improved sensory attributes featuring fast skin absorption and a soft, less oily and less tacky, skin feel. What are the latest and the most intrigueing solutions you can provide that engage the senses? Caroline Marlier, Sales Manager Cosmetic Ingredients, Soliance/Givaudan: With the help of actives acting on nerves in the field of neuro-cosmetics, sensations can be influenced at the source. The active ingredient Mariliance is capable of reducing skin neuro-inflammation by inhibiting a pain receptor. It thus increases skin comfort and creates a better skin sensation. What solutions can you offer in the field of cooling? Our series of cooling agents deliver a sustained cooling sensation for a Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face What are your solutions against skin-ageing and pollution? Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, VP Business Development and Marketing, IBR, Israel: One of our solutions to skin ageing and pollution is IBR-Pristinizer. This aqueous extract of Asteriscus Graveolens, the fragrant star, a perennial desert plant used in traditional medicine for multiple treatments against fever, pain and inflammations also offers benefits for healing wounds and preventing microbial infections. This active ingredient can protect skin from damages induced by air pollution, such as cigarette smoke. What methods can prove their effects? We used cigarette smoke as a model for air pollution since it contains thousands of chemicals, 60 of which are highly toxic. These chemicals are similar to the content of polluted air from industry, cars, fires, etc. The cigarette smoke was used to test the benefits of this plant extract on keratinocytes as well as in vivo, using heavy smokers as panelists in the study. The active ingredient significantly improved the survival of keratinocytes exposed to a medium contaminated with cigarette smoke. It modulated the expression of several genes involved in detoxification systems and stress signals, protection from oxidative damage, anti-inflammation and anti-age- 28 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

29 INGREDIENTS MARKETING ing in keratinocytes. After 28 days of use in a double blind, placebo-controlled in-vivo study among panelists that are heavy smokers, the active ingredient delivered anti-ageing effects including decreasing wrinkles and improving skin texture and roughness. It also lightened the skin (as proven with the help of colourimetry). The panelists perceived an improved skin tone, radiance, spots, sensitivity, wrinkles, visible health and visible youthfulness. In what way do smart phones and photoshop have an effect on cosmetics? Dr. Torsten Clarius, Technical Manager Active Ingredients, BASF, Germany: The cosmetics industry finds itself in a quandary. On the one hand, consumers want increasingly specialized products that care for a specific area of their skin. This desire for individualization is also an expression of status. On the other hand, products are expected to be increasingly easy to obtain and to accomplish everything at once. As a solution to this dilemma, some companies have integrated modern media and software into their sales strategy. Image editing apps on a smartphone can simulate the anticipated effect of a care product on a selfie, and the consumer can then order the product at the touch of a button. At this point in time, there are even small, mobile phone devices for analysing the condition of one s skin and which can interface with the mobile phone. With the appropriate app, the result is analysed and suitable products are suggested which, again, can be ordered at the touch of a button. These sales-boosting technologies require care products that have rapid, clearly visible effects products like the so-called Alphabet Creams. These AA, BB, CC (and so on) formulas can be easily adjusted in regards to their content of UV filters, pigments and many active ingredients in order to satisfy the consumer s desire for a perfect skin. The desire for highly efficient sun care products with a minimum content of synthetic actives has placed significant limitations on formulation strategy Many consumers seek products to treat their scars and stretchmarks photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com What are your latest and most innovative solutions in the field of thickeners? Jennifer Cargill, International Sales, AlfaCos, UK: We offer two new, natural Ecocert solutions for thickening natural cosmetic products: one for thickening oils and one for thickening water. Sucragel is a liquid which can gel any oil phase into a thick oily gel at room temperature with a simple paddle stirrer. The final gel has a micro-emulsion aspect which transforms into an emulsion as soon as any water is added. The final gel can be used for a number of different leave-on or wash-off applications such as cleansers, massage gels and body scrubs. Sucraclear is a new water thickener which consists of a blend of natural gums that work together synergistically to produce thick, natural water gels with a clarity to match a synthetic Carbomer gel. This thickener comes in powder form and has to be heated to 70oC in water and is then simply homogenized until uniform. The final gel produces a pleasant soft and silky skin feel which can be used as the water phase for an emulsion or as an under eye gel, body gel or serum. Presentations on the products mentioned were held at Impag s cosmetics seminar event held at Montabaur castle. Photos of the event can be found on the Internet see Internet panel ww.impag.de, photo: Artem Furmann, Shutterstock.com COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 29

30 MARKETING EVENTS 21 st DGK symposium in Darmstadt Sun protection and more What is the effect of sun exposure on human beings and on the ageing process? Consultant Prof Dr Leonhard Zastrow s topic was the Free Radical Threshold Value and its implications. Dr Thomas Borschard from Merck provided an overview of the current situation concerning alternative methods and their impact on the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. Ina Höfgen-Müller from Merck looked at the regulation of UV filters on a worldwide scale with a special focus on nanomaterials in the EU. Claas Ulrich from the clinic of dermatology Charité dealt with sun protection and skin cancer. Prof Dr Jörg Reichrath from the Clinic of Dermatology Saarland discussed UV exposure and Vitamin D, and explained to what extent sun exposure is beneficial for human beings. Dieter Kockott from UV-Technik showed that a certain choice of UV filters can optimise the provitamin D-forming radiation on the skin. Dr Martina Meinke, also from the Charité, talked about how the entire solar spectrum impacts the formation of free radicals in the skin and that a This year s 21 st DGK* symposium which took place from nd May in Darmstadt focused on Man and the sun and the impact of the sun on human beings, ageing and sun protection. high quantity of light scattering particles and antioxidants helps to neutralise free radicals. Dr Astrid von Seebach from SIT Skin Investigation and Technology showed that the suction blister technology as a non-invasive procedure complementing the SPF method can help us understand the molecular mechanisms that contribute to acute and chronic damage of the skin caused by UV exposure. Dr Torsten Schläger from Beiersdorf provided an overview of the most important developments and product trends in the field of sun care. Dr Gerd Mildau from the Chemical and Veterinary Investigatory Office (CVUA) in Karlsruhe presented the sun protection issue in Europe from the point of view of official surveillance bodies. Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face photo: Johnny Ka, Shutterstock.com Sylvia Eisenberg from Merck showed that it proves useful to apply various anti-ros testing protocols in order to assess and compare different cosmetic products and ingredients. Myriam Sohn from the University of Applied Sciences and Arts (FHNW) in Basel explained what impact film thickness distribution has on sunscreen efficacy and showed how important it is to characterise film residue on skin to optimise the performance of sunscreens. Dr Mathias Rohr from Institute Dr. Schrader showed to what extent the method Induced Chemiluminescence of Skin (ICL-S) can demonstrate an oxidative protection potential in vivo. Dr Hansjürgen Driller from Merck presented the company s approach to the pathway-related development of active ingredients. He showed their research strategy in the field of melanogenesis with the aim of creating an innovative tanning concept. Consultant Eckhard Klette presented the findings from the DGK s in vitro ring trial for UVA claims in sun protection, comparing the two different methods ISO and the FDA He came to the conclusion that both methods can come to the same results. However, as there is more freedom in the definition of technical parameters with the FDA method, the results are not necessarily identical. Claudia Balluff from Hohenstein Laboratories talked about textile sun protection and different methods to measure UV protection in textiles. She came to the conclusion that textiles measured according to UV Standard 801 for textiles can be considered safe. Dr Jürgen Blaak from Kneipp explained what effects many years of sun exposure can have on the epidermal barrier in old age. He came to the conclusion that even though there are a large number of interesting findings in this field, there is still a great need for research. Dr Markus Landgraf from the European Space Agency, with his presentations about radiation protection in space, and Dr Dirk Notz from the MPI for Meteorology, with his talk about climatic effects, helped the audience to look beyond cosmetic sun protection. AM * German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics Photos of the event can be found on the Internet see Internet panel 30 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

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32 5good reasons for reading! Trends Statements Innovation Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow 1 2 COSSMA! On-line and right up to date COSSMA! Search and download from our archives 3 4 COSSMA! free E-paper COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads (value 156 Euros) Super gift for new subscribers: 50 EUR amazon voucher 5 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany) Order today, at or via the hotline: +49 (0) Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany, Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com HRB Mannheim USt-ID-Nr. DE General Manager: Jürgen Volpp

33 Expert tool for Star of the Month more precise application A new applicator was developed for Guerlain s Abeille new eye sculpt product Gold Eyetech. This applicator, which is shaped like a finger, is meant to create a new experience and make product application not only more pleasant but also more precise. Following the three-step massage method, the new expert tool makes the application of the light serum texture product more convenient Guerlain s product range Abeille Royale, created in 2010, is characterised by its unusual textures. A new applicator was exclusively developed for the new eye sculpt product Gold Eyetech. The applicator photo: Guerlain finger patented by HCT serves as an extension of the hand. For this application tool, all aspects such as design, ergonomics and material were carefully studied to make application as easy as with a finger. Each step in its manufacture was tested many times by a panel of beauty experts to achieve the optimal shape. The design fits well with the contours of the consumer s finger as the pad of the index finger rests against the hollow of the metallic tip. Rounded and pierced with an opening to release the formula, the back of the applicator gently follows the contours of the eye area to reach every crevice. On contact with the skin, the freshness of the finely gilded metal contributes to the refreshing and decongesting effect of the formula. To apply the product s light serum texture, the tube is squeezed to extract the serum. Then the index finger is placed against the nozzle to apply the product in accordance with the new three-step BeautyLift method developed by the Guerlain Institute. This method comprises a massage that combines stretching and muscle dynamics to activate microcirculation. AM COSSMA 0 I 2015 l 33

34 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS Replacing comparable ingredients Mastering the challenges The price difference for many comparable raw materials often ranges between 10 to 30 percent or more photo: Isak55, Shutterstock.com Consultant Dr Stefan Müller points out the complexity of replacing comparable ingredients and that the cost savings involved can amount to more than a 100 percent. Managing raw materials for cosmetics products today is a challenge. It is not only a challenge for the purchasing team of a production company but it is also a complex task for the entire production company. After all, the purchasing, the logistics and the R&D/regulatory team have to handle hundreds of different raw materials. All these teams have to cooperate in order to build up the company s power to negotiate and if necessary to replace certain raw materials with alternatives from various suppliers. Replacing comparable ingredients Raw materials frequently used in cosmetics include emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners, different actives and preservatives. Many of these are offered by a large variety of suppliers. These suppliers usually claim to provide an alternative, a com- parable product with the same INCI and properties. However, even though two products might bear the same INCI name, this does not necessarily mean that these ingredients are identical. In many cases, the quality of ingredients with the same INCI name varies. Therefore, before replacing an ingredient, the new ingredient has to be thoroughly checked. Working hand-in-hand A qualification team comprising members of R&D and regulatory, the manufacturing division and logistics is needed to set up a qualification process. This process should ideally be part of a properly defined GMP and quality management process. Here, the whole team responsible for this qualification should be aware of what risks are involved when replacing certain ingredients. The qualification should be started within the regulatory and quality management department. At first, all specification parameters of the alternative material or mixture have to be identified. The team needs to verify that the alternative material corresponds to the relevant parameters defined in their raw materials database, which is the basis for the safety assessments and the product information files of cosmetics products containing the assessed ingredient. Furthermore, the status of third party rights (patents) also needs to be checked. The safety assessor should check the new raw material s data to confirm that its use is safe. These data need to be incorporated into the safety assessment at the latest after having finalized the replacement checking process. Impacts on formulations If this first check is successful, the R&D department needs to evaluate how the replacement works in relevant formulations in comparison to the traditionally used ingredient. At least in some relevant examples, the new ingredient s impact on stability, physio-chemical parameters and product consistency has to be analyzed. At this stage, a first risk assessment of the raw material replacement should be performed. The experience of the formulator is of relevance when it comes to deciding what studies are required. In some cases, it may be sufficient to perform only an analytical check of the alternative material. This is the case in particular for defined molecules such 34 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

35 as UV-filters, single preservative molecules and for some active ingredients. In contrast, emulsifiers often vary in the lipophilic part of their molecule even if they have the same INCI declaration. This causes the final emulsion to acquire completely different properties in terms of viscosity and/or stability. The properties of thickening agents are very often completely different in spite of the same INCI declaration. These differences often result in completely different properties in the final product. In contrast, the effort required to replace an emollient is comparatively low. However, even in challenging cases an adequate alternative can often be found. The manufacturing team should at least look at the lab samples to decide what kind of filling behaviour to expect and if they are processable once the assessed new ingredient has been incorporated. After all the tests have been successfully finalized, the supply chain department should check how the new ingredient has to be handled. After the positive outcome of this procedure, the purchasing department now has to decide if this newly qualified material has to be handled as part of the same raw material code or as a new order position. The advantage for the company is obvious. If there is a shortage at one of the suppliers due to base materials shortage or due to any event of force majeur, the risk of a production stop is minimized. And what is more, the purchasing department is in a position to discuss prices with their suppliers with a lot more impetus. Thus, offers can be compared and packages can be negotiated. In addition, this paves the way for a strategic partnership with specific suppliers. Thus, a so-called strategic purchase can be started. Without such a procedure, the purchaser is not really in a position to powerfully discuss more profitable conditions with his suppliers. Considerable cost-savings involved After this process has been fully implemented and after having qualified about 80 percent of the raw material s purchasing volume (in terms of money), a cost saving of more than 10% can usually be achieved. This is due to the extremely varied pricing policies of suppliers. The price difference for many comparable raw materials often ranges between 10 to 30 percent, and in some extreme cases can amount to even more than 100%. In addition to saving costs, there is a clear advantage in case of shortage or production stops. Loss in quality? On the other hand, a risk of quality issues when replacing an ingredient should always be taken into consideration. This risk clearly depends on the qualification process within the production company. The better this process is executed and the better the qualification is defined, the lower the risk of any quality issue. Finally, it should be pointed out that any issue due to a raw material change should result in an improvement of the qualification process. It should not serve to identify the culprit more easily, but should help to continuously improve the company s business performance. Dr Stefan Müller Cosmetic Consulting, Weil am Rhein, Germany INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION COSSMA 0 I 9015 l 35

36 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS Natural and silicone-free hair conditioning A green approach Study results prove that two natural-based ingredients from Natura-Tec an ester complex from olive origin and a triglyceride ester of Phytosterols can replace silicone in conditioning and hair care applications without compromising efficacy and sensorial performance. In high demand: Eco-friendly high-performance alternatives to silicones, quaternized compounds and synthetic polymers for hair care photo: istock Fig. 1: Comparing application properties of an ester complex from olive origin to different silicones Fig. 5: The film forming properties of the triglyceride ester in a standard formulation: An immediate effect on the increase of hair volume was proved figures: Naturatec Nowhere is the demand for vegetable-based ingredients as pressing or as important as in the field of hair care formulations, where the search for alternatives to well-known conditioning ingredients such as silicones, quaternized compounds and synthetic polymers is a major issue. Such alternatives should satisfy criteria of natural origin, sustainability and efficacy whilst avoiding recognized problems caused by the traditional conditioning agents mentioned above, such as long-term buildup, limited or no biodegradability, and poor integration with the substrate. Natura-Tec is currently producing several natural-based alternatives to synthetic conditioning and protecting ingredients two of which are particularly important for hair care products. Silicone-free natural hair care Natura-Tec Plantsil*, an ester complex from olive origin, is a sensorial agent that has been designed to be used as a vegetable-based alternative to silicone. It is a highly stable, almost odourless, transparent fluid oil. The sensorial profile of this ester complex mimics the feel of silicones. It provides a silky touch and smoothness to skin and hair without causing an oily residue. Furthermore, thanks to its penetration and fast spreading properties, it produces a similar feel to cyclomethicone. This ingredient restores suppleness and elasticity in skin and hair. It is rapidly absorbed, leaving a soft sensation with a unique finish. It imparts a long lasting silky feel, therefore giving a velvety touch in skin and hair care applications (Fig. 1). In shampoo formulations it has been proved that the behaviour of this product on the hair is very similar to actual used silicones. Lab evaluations confirm that the Natura-Tec Plantsil* is compatible with common surfactants and co-surfactants. Due to its sensorial properties, it can replace silicones in hair care products as a conditioning agent. (Fig. 2 1 ). All-natural hair conditioning Natura-Tec Abysoft**, a non-irritant triglyceride ester of Phytosterols, is an MPE (Multifunctional Performance Enhancing) active that combines the benefits of Crambe Abyssinica Oil with the bio-availability of Phytosterols. Based on long chain triglycerides, this ester has a unique molecular structure. It contains long chain fatty acids and is very oxidation resistant. It acts directly on the skin and hair, forming a thin protective film which re- 36 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

37 INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION Today s consumer demands Today s formulators are challenged due to changing attitudes of modern consumers: Consumers have become increasingly conscious of social, economic, technical and ethical issues regarding all aspects of modern life including those relating to the use and manufacture of cosmetics. They follow the global green trend more and more, and are aware that the products that they buy not only have an impact on their personal wellbeing, but also on the environment. This, in recent years, has stimulated a request for alternatives to synthetic or mineral oil-based ingredients which can be responsibly extracted, derived or manufactured from natural sources. Although consumers increasingly seek personal care products based on alternative ingredients that are as green as possible, they are not willing to sacrifice product performance or convenience going forward. tains the vital balance of water while maintaining the substrate in optimal conditions. By creating this delicate natural film, it imparts a velvety feel to the hair. Specific studies on hair application demonstrate, that this ingredient improves hair elasticity, increases hair brightness, and it shows a significant conditioning effect with an immediate effect on hair volume. After 12 treatments, hair elasticity res. the resistance of hair to traction is improved, hair brightness is increased and hair volume is enhanced by improvement of hair diameter (Fig. 3 2, 4 3 and 5). Nature can make it Extensive laboratory evaluations have shown that both natural-based ingredients can replace silicone in conditioning and hair care applications. These ingredients allow cosmetic formulators to develop finished products that are based on vegetable-derived ingredients which conform to modern trends without compromising important parameters, such as efficacy and sensorial performance which have a significant Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face impact on consumer perception. Consequently, hair care products today can be both green and efficient. They can satisfy all the criteria which are considered of major importance by informed, motivated and environmentally-savvy consumers. These consumers place great emphasis on issues such as renewability, sustainability and eco-friendliness; whilst still looking for quality, performance and cost-effectiveness in the personal care products they purchase. * INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) ** INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Phytosterol Esters 1, 2, 3 : The figures 2, 3 and 4 as well as additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel cosmetic creations Premium protection for beauty products. Polyfoil tubes from Neopac are known for: Fascinating look and touch All-around printing with offset, flexo, silkscreen and hotstamping. High restoring force of the tube, softtouch, brushed and metallic effects. Excellent protection of fillings Protection against light, diffusion-tight, water vapour, corrosion. A variety of airless tubes from ml. User-friendliness Applicators such as airless pumps, roll-ons, SofTips, serum droppers, cool-tips, single-dose tubes, flip top caps. Sustainability and quality Neopac is certified according to ISO 9001, ISO and ISO All colors and lacquers are solventless and UV-curing. Thin wall tubes with light weight caps are available as a standard. Sébastien Barré, Pascale Goyat, George Rosson Ceratec Sarl incorporating Naturatec division, Fréjus, France, Ulrike Marx NCD Ingredients, Hanau, Germany info@natura-tec.com, ulrike.marx@ncd-ingredients.de, Visit our booth at Luxepack Monaco. October COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 37

38 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS The hydrosoluble oils with the same level of polyunsaturated fatty acids, anti-ageing or moisturizing activities as normal oils have foaming and cleansing properties, too photos: _L, Fotolia.com, Infog, Shutterstock.com A look behind the scenes The story of hydrosoluble PEG-free oils There are many active ingredients in the market that have been designed in the laboratory, although sometimes with limited practical approach. Greentech s Aquasiloil range consists of plant oils that solubilize easily in the aqueous phase. In order to better understand the development behind this approach, COSSMA interviewed Laurent Chaisemartin responsible for the creation of this range. Your Aquasiloil range is water-soluble. How did you manage to create it? Laurent Chaisemartin, Research Chemist, Greentech: In the process of formulating you always face the challenge of having to work an oil into your aqueous formulation without using a solubilizer as PEG or other chemical or artificial enhancements. This is why we started to naturally transform vegetable oils into hydrosoluble ingredients by using a sustainable process. After a few years of research, the R&D lab managed to develop the new product range that can be used in the water phase. On top of the being water-soluble, this range also has cleansing and foaming properties. This helps decrease the amount of tensioactive in products such as shampoos and make-up removers. Is it possible to convert any oil into a water-soluble oil or are only certain plant oils suitable? The three different hydro-soluble oils we have developed so far cover a wide range of applications due to their different cleansing and foaming capabilities. Indeed, not all oils are suitable. Avocado oil, for example, cannot be transformed into a water-soluble oil as it has specific fatty acids that can induce precipitation. However, we are currently working on new developments to expand the range. Betain SLS Aquasiloil Sweet Almond Cleansing effect to decrease SLS content 2 times less SLS with 2% Aquasiloil Sweet Almond 4 times less SLS with 5% Aquasiloil Sweet Almond figure: Greentech What is the main benefit when formulating with these oils? The new range of natural oils is grafted with green biotechnology based on lysine. They solubilize in the aqueous phase at ph above 7 and the formulation is clear at ph around 9 without any use of solubilizer or emulsifier. Aquasiloil keeps the intrinsic properties of the respective oil, such as the level of polyunsaturated fatty acids (omega 3), anti-ageing or moisturizing activities. In addition, the products have foaming and cleansing properties. Consequently, the SLS or derivatives content and irritations can be sig- 38 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

39 Trends INGREDIENTS PRODUCTION Statements Innovation The first three hydrosoluble oils are based on sweet almond, inca inchi and argan photos: Dionisvera, Piti Tan and Picture Partners, Shutterstock.com newsletter order nificantly reduced. The three different products available with various properties regarding foaming and cleansing power are: Aquasiloil Sweet almond, which was designed for shampoo and shower gel. This oil has soothing, healing and softening activities and possesses strong foaming and cleansing properties. Aquasiloil Inca Inchi, which was specifically created for cleansing lotions. It has an average foaming effect and mild cleansing properties and contains the naturally regenerating omegas-3 and -6. In addition, it is characterized by the repairing and skin suppleness activities of the organic Inca Inchi oil. Aquasiloil Argan acts as a mild cleansing active with no foaming effect. It is a natural oil with the moisturizing benefits of argan oil. The special technology used for the creation of this product allows the use of a higher percentage of oil in products such as shampoo (in which usually only limited amounts can be used). It can also be used for cosmetics products that are normally formulated without oils. The eco-friendly hydrosoluble range of high quality oils for the creation of natural high-tech cosmetics meets today s consumers needs. The hydrosoluble range of oils with benefits for the producer, consumer and environment has a sustainable lifecycle: a green chemistry process is used for its production, it allows easy formulation with respect to the skin s balance and it can be as easily eliminated as a classic oil. A broad variety of frame formulations such as Iced Regenerating Mask, Shower Bubbles and Make up Remover are available. Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel Germany: info@greentechgmbh.de, International: communication@greentech.fr, Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact me by mobile phone, , in writing, by telephone/fax with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further infor mation, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty. Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street address Postcode, city, country Date and signature Order today: Fax: +49 (0)7243 Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany Phone: +49 (0) Fax: COSSMA +49 (0) I l 39 customer@health-and-beauty.com

40 PRODUCTION EVENTS in Zurich More facts, fewer illusions From the approximately 35 exhibitors presenting their latest developments at this year s IFSCC* conference in Zurich** from September 21 23, we have selected a few intriguing product launches, new study results and new testing methods to look forward to. This year cosmetic scientists from all over the world will flock to Zurich, Switzerland s biggest city, with its amazing views of snow-capped mountains, to find out about the latest developments in cosmetics science photo: Silvan Bachmann, Shutterstock.com Induchem will present their latest scientific discoveries on the human skin microbiote with three posters that deal with skin metagenomics: on the relationship between the skin microbial community composition and a cosmetic formulation (in collaboration with LVMH), on metagenomic analyses the skin microbiome and beyond, and on a global skin-tone modulating agent activated by skin microbiote. The company s new concept box My Skin Rx is to be launched as a new marketing concept which enables the consumer to build their own personalized products. With the help of one base liquigel-serum and 3 boosters, the consumer can create up to 7 different formulas that help to manage ageing, pollution, stress and irritation. Lonza Consumer Care will launch ReGeniStem Brightening, a new biotech active. Derived from the meristematic stem cells of licorice, this easyto-use, oil-soluble skin care active Shedding new light on actives Greentech will present new in vivo results for Reverskin an anti-ageing active launched this spring. This cell booster is said to recreate the volume of the skin whilst smoothing out wrinkles in order to bring back the relief of young skin. According to new in vivo results, after 28 days wrinkles are visibly smoothed on 2 levels by stimulating the renewal of the epidermis and reinforcing the cohesion of the corneal layer. Thus, it acts as a booster from the very bottom to the surface of the epidermis. The stimulated cell regeneration helps bring back the volume and relief of young skin. In addition to presenting Induchem s novelties, the distribution company Permcos will focus on aloe vera. This is because of a new partnercontains a high level of actives that help brighten the skin, e.g. under-eye circles, beauty marks or simply lacklustre skin. Also new is the multi-benefit active Niacinamide USP PC. Niacinamide has been used for years in order to enhance the efficacy of skin care and hair care formulas. The new active ingredient, which is low in niacin, helps to enhance the tone and texture of skin and improve its overall appearance. The company s novel approach, when addressing the concerns of compromised skin and premature ageing, is to incorporate the principles of dual fermentation techniques in order to create a competitive environment for organisms. This technology referred to as ProSynergen DF was developed as a natural process of bio-active expression via fermentation of two organisms that are grown simultaneously, therefore creating a competitive environment for survival. This new ingredient can help improve the overall well-be- ing of compromised skin in order to make skin look younger and healthier. 40 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

41 EVENTS PRODUCTION ship with a supplier in this segment. So far, the effectiveness or quality of aloe vera is primarily linked to the polysaccharide content. However. the chain length of these polysaccharides also plays an important part in the processing quality and efficacy of aloe vera. The latest findings show that the activity of aloe vera is linked to a synergistic action of the naturally occurring components, not to a single chemical substance. A new powder grade, as a result of a very careful dehydration process, serves to preserve the original composition. GPC size exclusion chromatography shows that the polysaccharide composition (of the aloe grade dehydrated this way) is similar to that of a fresh leaf. Courage & Khasaka will present the InvitroTewameter VT 310 with which the TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) can be measured. It offers all the benefits of the Tewameter and is suited to sit on a Franz cell. It fully emulates the upper part (donor chamber) of a standard 15 mm Franz cell. Thus, the probes sit exactly on the membrane of the Franz cell as it would sit on skin direct- IFSCC 2015 at a glance The 23 rd IFSCC conference will take place in Zurich s Conference Centre in Switzerland from September It is precisely 20 years ago that Switzerland hosted this inter national get- together of cosmetic scientists from all over the world. In 1995, when the conference was held in Montreux, the event focussed on Facts and Illusions in Cosmetics. Over the course of 20 years, there have been a large number of major changes in the field of cosmetics and a completely different generation of scientists is in charge now. The somewhat more focused emphasis this time 20 years on is More facts, less illusions. The programme will feature a large number of internationally renowned speakers presenting the latest developments in the large variety of new technologies with which the performance and safety of new active ingredients can be evaluated. The presentations will also show to what extent formulation technology has moved on to facilitate a large number of new product ideas. The exhibition featured throughout the conference will show the latest developments in the field of active ingredients, as well as functionals. In 2016, Orlando, Florida will host the IFSCC conference from October 30 th to November 2 nd ly, so that no further adapters are required. The measured TEWL-value is expressed in g/h/m² the worldwide acknowledged absolute measuring value for skin. There is no other probe that offers this option in vitro. The TempTest device can easily determine cold and heat contact urticaria and the individual temperature threshold for each patient. The DandruffMeter DA 20 is an easy, yet cost-effective method to accurately analyse dandruff. This is an important subject when doing research for hair care products and also for testing the efficacy of these products. The convenient image analysis software calculates the size and number of dandruff in 9 different categories and collects all images and study data in an Excel table. AM * International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists ** organiszed by the Swiss SCC, the Swiss organization of cosmetic chemists OxyForce Cellular Active gives your skin the oxygen it needs to look its best. Your skin needs oxygen to stay healthy. That s why we developed OxyForce Cellular Active. OxyForce is specially designed to deliver nourishing molecular oxygen to the epidermal layers to support collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkle depth and smooth out blemishes. Add a blast of oxygen to your skin care product formulation, it s the perfect compliment to energize your claims. Contact us or visit our website to see our in vivo study or to obtain a sample. tell me more airproducts.com/oxyforce 2015 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc. COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 41

42 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS NEWS photo: Madlen, Shutterstock.com News Ingredients Fighting cutaneous aggressions ID bio ID bio has unveiled new studies carried out on its latest active ingredient extracted from buckwheat seeds, Cell intact (Aqua (and) Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract). An ex vivo evaluation has been realised on reconstructed epidermis to prove its efficiency in the presence of a pollutant (benzo[a]pyrene). The ingredient reduces the proinflammatory answer by acting on interleukin-8 (IL-8), a marker protein that overreacts in case of pollution and leads to cutaneous discomfort, and it rebuilds and reinforces the architectural epidermis network via the protection of tight junctions proteins (Claudins-1 and -4) to avoid premature ageing. The results show that the active ingredient creates a natural shield against pollution and environmental attacks, a preventive and restorative action for the protective care of face and body. Active ingredient extracted from buckwheat seeds New findings prove efficacy DSM In its latest opinion, the SCCS concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe at levels of up to 2% in face care products and up to 0.5% in body care products. In recent years arbutin has been the subject of safety discussions in the EU. Following the opinion on beta-arbutin, published in 2008 by the SCCS (SCCP/1158/08), the EU Commission called for additional safety data on alpha-arbutin in DSM submitted an exhaustive product dossier to prove the safety of alpha-arbutin. In particular, the evaluation of hydroquinone release, data on Skin tone applications alpha-arbutin stabilisation in formulated cosmetic are one of the biggest products, and test results explaining the behaviour growing segments in of alpha-arbutin on the skin were submitted for the skin care market safety evaluation. DSM introduced alpha-arbutin to the cosmetic industry more than 10 years ago. The activity of alpha-arbutin in promoting the appearance of an even skin tone has been shown in several clinical studies. At a 1% concentration level, the molecule outperformed other commonly used cosmetic ingredients such as kojic acid and beta-arbutin. DSM also shares new research findings confirming extra efficacy on skin by Regu-Scence (see page 10 ff.), a pure white asparagus extract from the Navarra region. The molecule, launched by DSM in 2014, proved to be highly effective in anti-ageing application. Thanks to its mechanism of action, it delays the cellular ageing process by stimulating the skin s own autophagy capabilities. photo: Nadya Korobkova, Shutterstock.com 42 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

43 BEAUTY FORUM connect B2B-Sales-Matching 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 17 th, 18 th October 2015 Europes No. 1 autumn cosmetics trade fair LOOKING FOR A PARTNER In 2015 for the second time the b2b matching and networking tool BEAUTY FORUM connect will be established to support you finding a business partner. BEAUTY FORUM connect is your platform for effec tive b2b networking & matchmaking. BEAUTY FORUM connect free of charge for exhibitors of 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH THE BIG PLUS Find a business partner fast and efficient Get informed of potential businesses online Easy and effective matching of trade partners Establish business relationship time- and cost-effective FREE-OF-COSTS ENTRY FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS! FOR MORE INFORMATION SCAN QR CODE! Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str Ettlingen, Germany Tel: messe@health-and-beauty.com

44 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS NEWS News Ingredients New solutions revealed Dr. Straetmans Dermofeel easymuls plus is a single emulsifier for sprayable concepts with a light skin feel. A further advantage of this raw material is the applicability in cold production, making it economic and easy to use. Dermofeel enlight is a natural effective whitening active material. This blend is based on phytic acid and mulberry extract with in vivo-proven activity. It is especially suitable for natural age spot correction applications and skin lightening products. New slimming and anti-ageing material Showa Denko Showa Denko has developed HCAP, a hydroxycitric acid (HCA) derivative as a cosmetic raw material that deeply permeates the skin and cell membrane, contributing significantly to the effect of slimming and skin anti-ageing. As HCA is water-soluble and does not readily permeate the skin, it was difficult to use HCA in cosmetics. SDK has developed a lipophilic derivative of HCA, increasing transdermal permeability of the active compound (HCA). Emulsifier suitable for sprayable concepts with a light skin feel A hydroxycitric acid (HCA) derivative with increased transdermal permeability photo: K. Kapon, Shutterstock.com photo: Wavebreakmedia, Shutterstock.com Active ingredient that smooths out the microrelief while strengthening the dermo-epidermal junction Reversing skin ageing Greentech Reverskin (see page 40) is a global anti-ageing active which speeds up the creation and stabilisation of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ). The cohesion between dermis and epidermis is enhanced. The DEJ is stronger and the skin is firmer and more elastic. In vitro, the active stimulates epidermal renewal by increasing proliferation of basal cells by 3.3 and differentiation by 5.3 at 0.2%, in comparison to control cells. The epidermis becomes more stratified more quickly and recovers the voluminous density of young skin. The stratum corneum gets its cohesion back and works as a strong barrier again. Reshaping the face contour Lipotec Lipotec has performed a new test on its Uplevity tetrapeptide, which counteracts the sagging and ageing effects on the skin by increasing collagen and functional elastin synthesis. It further contributes to skin firmness by overexpressing genes involved in cellular cohesion due to focal adhesions that are the interference between the actin cytoskeleton and extracellular matrix. The result is an improved quality of mature skin. In the new in vivo study, at the end of the treatment the following results were observed: improved skin firmness (25.2% decreased maximal deformation), enhanced general elasticity of the skin (16% increase in overall elasticity) as well as a visible lifting effect of the face contour with a decrease of 0.13 cm. In addition, a self-assessment conducted by the participants regarding the efficacy of the product revealed that 95% of volunteers noticed a more toned skin after using the 2% peptide solution and 90% believed that the treatment offered a firming effect. Tetrapeptide counteracts the sagging and ageing effects on the skin photo: Viacheslav Nikolaenko, Shutterstock.com photo: Ollyy, Shutterstock.com 44 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

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46 PRODUCTION EVENTS Cosmetic Business 2015 What was new? photo: Meding Meeting the demand for cream jars and spatulas in a more flexible way What new ideas and solutions were displayed at this year s Cosmetic Business in Munich? Our selection provides information on some noteworthy developments. Combining airless pump tubes with professional applicators photo: Scandolara Green PE made from sugar cane-derived ethanol helps lower CO 2 emissions Cosmetic Business 2015 at a glance At this year s Cosmetic Business, which took place from 10 to 11 June 2015 at Munich s MOC Events Centre, 393 suppliers from 24 countries presented their latest solutions for future product ideas in the cosmetics industry. Trade visitors from 45 countries came to this 11 th edition of the show. One in four visitors came from outside Germany in order to get information on the new products in the fields of raw materials, manufacturing, packaging and services. An especially large number of visitors came from Austria, Switzerland, Italy, Poland, Spain and France. The specialist programme at CosmeticBusiness comprised 16 lectures on the latest trends in the market. Cosmetic Business 2016 will take place on 8 and 9 June in Munich s MOC Events Centre photo: Lumson M eding s new jar range is designed to be able to meet customer demand for cream jars and spatulas in a more flexible way. The jars were presented with matching spatulas, which are available in a range of different colours and designs and which can be chromed and gilded if desired. The jars are manufactured from non-toxic plastic and are available in volumes from 3 to 350 ml. Lumson s new PE packaging, which is manufactured using ethanol, is derived from sugar cane. Green PE is in contrast to ethanol that has been derived from crude oil manufactured in a more sustainable way and with lower CO 2 emissions. For every tonne of Green PE produced, there is a saving of 2.5 tonnes of CO 2. The company can produce their entire STD PE plastic bottle collection in the Green PE version. The bottles can subsequently be coloured and finished as usual. The use of Green PE packaging can also make it easier for cosmetics brands to get organic certification for their products. Scandolara showed new combinations of PE tubes and applicators. With its product palette of airless pump tubes and PE tubes with a whole range of lip and eye applicators, there is the choice of an appropriate applicator for virtually any cosmetic application to apply just the right amount of face cream, make-up, eye-care or lip-care product to the skin. Greiner Packaging presented the company s full-service offerings as well as packaging solutions with added value. The company s division Kavo supplies plastic packaging which can be decorated with the help of a large variety of decoration technologies. The materials used for packaging increase permanently. For the majority of applications, PET, PE und PP are being used. However, there is also plastic packaging made from PA and new organic plastics. Cardbox Packaging, which is part of the Greiner Packaging 46 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

47 EVENTS PRODUCTION Attractive packaging solutions with added value The interplay of natural materials, micro-lasering of the surface texture and digital printing technology creates the look of a leather texture photo: Greiner Packaging photo: Heinz-Glas photo: RPC Bramlage Dispenser for consistent dosing and hygienic product application Spotlight selection at a glance In a dedicated section at the entrance of the trade show, CB Spotlight presented a selection of the exhibitors highlights: Edelmann s Excellence Concept, CLR s ProRenew Complex, Gabriel-Chemie s new metallic gloss and multi-colour effects in plastics, Grafe s colour preview 2016, Heinz Glas flacons with wood, slate and leather structure, Iggesund s upgraded Invercote G, Lifocolor s Colour Road , Linhardt s HD-Print, Louvrette s 3D Printing and digital printing, Mibelle s PhytoCellTec Nunatak, Obeck PET s Square Jar with 70 mm thread, O-Pac s Plumping from the Inside Eye Mask, Promens Slidissime Diamond Jar with wooden cap, Rusi s Bermuda-Design, Sederma s Majestem, Technature s Hydrogel Masks, Top Label s labels with NFC chip and Toyo & Deutsche Aerosol s aerosol packaging The Dual. Group, supplements the plastic packaging offering with folding boxes. RPC Bramlage s Twist Up dispensing technology is now available in the company s Magic Star dispenser range. This technology works by turning the upper part of the dispenser to reveal the dispensing head. The dispenser offers consistent controlled dosing and hygienic product application. The overall pack mimics the appearance of a conventional overcapped dispenser to enable it to fit into existing family ranges. The Magic Star Twist Up series, in a range of sizes from 30ml to 200ml, offers a choice of dosing levels of 1ml and 1.5ml. Heinz-Glas glass bottles with wood, leather and slate-like surface textures. It is the interplay of natural materials, micro-lasering of the surface texture and digital printing technology which creates this look. This combination produces a colour effect that is very close to the natural grains of wood and leather and the texture of slate. Edelmann s Excellence concept package comprises a folding box with the liner already integrated into it. The fine corrugated papers in minimal weights that look luxurious are normally made in a very elaborate process, whereas this solution supplies the integrated liner already fitted. Technature presented the Hydrogel Mask with its gel texture. At the end of 2014, the company invested in a machine park that allows the manufacturing and conditioning of this technology called Hydrogel. This know-how facilitates three different manufacturing methods for Hydrogel s masks and patches: with support, with tissue support and with a thermoforming mould. The hydrogels are made of the natural polymers Carrageenans. These polysaccharides constitute the cell walls of various red seaweeds. This filmogenic gel spreads the incorporated active ingredients to the cutaneous tissue. AM photo: Technature Hydrogel masks which perfectly follow the face shape for a freshening effect COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 47

48 PRODUCTION EVENTS Fascinating facets of colour cosmetics MakeUp in Paris 2015 New developments that enhance the beauty of the eye, as well as new colour trends and ingredients, are the main focus of the review of this year s MakeUp in Paris. Innovations hang like ripe fruit from the innovation tree photo: MakeUp in Paris photo: Rusi The Maskajal is a duo concept that combines a mascara with a khol pencil Rusi s Maskajal is a new duo concept combining anybody s need for a smokey-eyes style. The Khol Kajal cone, which is filled at the top of the bottle and protected by a gradient varnished cap, creates a precise contour, but can also be used to shade the lids easily. The mascara bottle helps to use the Khol Kajal as easily as a pen. After closing the cap, the packaging is opened as usual in order to apply the mascara. Geka s Marsala Summer in a pouch from Geka Accessories featured the following products: with the wedgeshaped fibre ends of the mascara, SmoothPassion separates lashes; while the two-component fibre design of SensitiveFiber provides volume. MissCurl, with its curved moulded brush makes every lash form an upward curve. SexyLips shapes lips with its soft, flexible applicator with precision due to the controlled formula dosage. The bottle s four-edge base flows seamlessly into a rounded design. The flocked DefinitionLiner for precise lines is as soft as a brush and as precise as a tip. The new 1K applicator MiniPerfector, for convenient application, defines brows in one stroke and fixes them in place with the transparent formula. The new Permanent Eyeliner by Bomo Trendline was selected by the jury for the Innovation Tree (see box). Its ball tip creates both a thick or fine line as desired. Although long-lasting, the eyeliner, which lasts up to 24 hours, is The long-lasting permanent eyeliner is easily removed with an eye makeup remover photo: Bomo Trendline Ergonomically designed mascara packaging easily removed with eye makeup remover. The product is available in three different textures: ultra black with shea butter, standard with chamomile, and waterproof with high-shine finish. Just a few drops of the Compact Derma Liquid Foundation, Cushion Airtight with its air ventilation system are enough to create a lightweight film and a silky satin finish. Mktg Industry presented Starlight a new packaging for mascara with an ergonomic design. Its shape allows precise application during usage. The minimum order quantity for this mascara packaging is 5,000. Faber-Castell Cosmetics presented Power Eraser in a PVC-free, airtight Jumbo Plastic Pencil. This solution to complexion correction visually blurs photo: Mktg Industry 48 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

49 EVENTS PRODUCTION Convenient make-up solutions out skin imperfections for an even, soft-focus look. The colour-coordinated liner and lipstick Iconic Lips ensures a frustration-free lip make-up. Scoop Eye Styler and Art & Graphic are 2 new tips from the company s broad range of liquid eyeliners. The Slim Capillary System with a paddle tip draws thick or thin lines that accentuate the lash line, or build a bolder cateye. Art & Graffic with its broad, angled 3D-tip in the chubby Modular Capillary System is designed for sharp graphic shapes in one simple stroke. The innovation tree As many exhibitors unveil their innovations, the show with its 34 exhibitors (and 73 innovations) - participated in the innovation tree displayed at the show. This new concept showcases research and innovation in make-up. The event s team of specialists chose 22 products to be displayed by hanging them from a tree during the show. Among the selected products were: 9 formulations, 6 packagings, 4 full-service products and 3 accessories. Arcade Beauty (the result of the merger of Arcade and Bioplan) presented its wide range of samples for foundation. Beautipod manufactured in the US and launching in France at the end of this year contains a good dose of product for a real testing experience. A spout facilitates the application process, no matter what its position. With Lipspop, consumers can test photo: Faber-Castell Cosmetics the shade or a new texture directly on the lips in a single gesture. For powder, ShadeSeal allows the presentation of up to 4 shades of foundation, blush or eyeshadow on a single card, which can be applied with a finger or an applicator. A transparent film both protects the formula and highlights the shade inside. Other solutions include the nail polish, and blister makeup palette with applicator for the lips or eyes. The mini-mascara a thermoformed version or tube on which the brush (the same as on the product for sale) is twisted on. Formulations and ingredients Merck s workshop The immersion in the world of colours demonstrated the versatile possibilities for using the company s RonaFlair Functional Fillers. They have an impact on luster, coverage and sensoric properties, as well as creating matte colour or metallic effects. The workshop These lips are made for kissing! provided insights into the shades and effects of the company s effect pigments. Each example shown in the Feel & Touch Session was designed to obtain extreme effects. As innovative lip cosmetics deserve a revolutionary packaging, Merck presented a unique design concept combining a new virtual embossing technology with high value effect pigments. The presentation Smart Effects Go extreme provided a preview for a combination of colour effects with additional benefits that result in a unique performance. It also presented the RGB printing technology for creating photo realistic, or even 3D effects, for packaging. 4 shades of foundation, blush or eyeshadow can be presented on a single card photo: Arcade Beauty photo: BASF/Magnus Winter, 2013 MakeUp in Paris 2015 at a glance With more than 3,200 visitors in two days, this sixth edition of MakeUp in Paris, which took place from June 18 to 19 at the Carrousel du Louvre, has beaten all records in terms of attendance. The percentage of foreign visitors amounted to 28% and a total of 1,200 people attended the conferences. The first edition in 2010 gathered only 30 exhibitors and 700 visitors. The event, which focuses on the world of colour cosmetics, this year had more ingredients, formulations and packaging than ever in the spotlight. The next shows taking place are Makeup in New York on 9 10 September and Makeup in Sao Paulo on 8 9 December A new generation of gold synthetic mica caters to a pure white gold shade and a shimmering glow BASF s expanded portfolio of gold pearls includes Chione Celestial Gold a new generation of gold synthetic mica. It helps create a pure, white shade of gold and a shimmering glow and shine in various cosmetics. The Color Trends 2017 anticipates that metallic shades of gold will continue to be relevant, but with the focus shifting to bronze, platinum and champagne. Harnessing the latest pigment technology, the Reflecks MultiDimensions and MultiReflections ranges create an impressive sparkle effect and visual dimensionality, and make eye-catching colour travel effects possible. AM com, COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 49

50 PRODUCTION PACKAGING NEWS Plastic replaces aluminium and other metals in this transparent bag-onvalve (BOV) aerosol system News Packaging Using wood fibre in the plastic granulate for bottles can save on oil-conserving resources Promising nominations German Packaging Award The jury awarded 53 innovative packaging solutions from 200 entries with a nomination for the 2015 German Packaging Award. The entries were from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Spain, Lichtenstein and the Netherlands. These were the most captivating nominations that are relevant to cosmetics and hygiene: Bottles made using wood fibre in the plastic granulate can save on oil and thus conserve resources. The look and feel of such bottles manufactured by SM Kunststoffverarbeitung harmonise perfectly with natural cosmetics. The SprayPET Reveal transparent bag valve packaging makes the bag-on-valve (BOV) aerosol system visible for the first time. Plastic replaces aluminium and other metals. Plastipak Packaging manufactured the product with a seamless inner bag with the help of a twophase injection stretch blow process. Combining a commercial dosage system with a container for liquids was a challenge when creating Henkel s dispensing bottle which can accurately dose differing volumes without new tools. The additional pressure compensation diaphragm prevents the product from accidentally leaking when there are different pressure conditions between the bottle interior and environment. Structural reinforcements were attached to ensure the vacuum container worked. This solution was developed in cooperation with Spicefire/Menshen and Alpla Werke Alwin Lehner. The foil embossed hologram in three levels gives the honeycomb logo of the hyaluronic acid product packaging a three-dimensional effect. This concept made from renewable raw materials designed by Philipp seine Helden and Carl Edelmann for Dr. Kurt Wolff replaces PET cartons. Packaging trade show in Nuremberg Fachpack 2015 In its 36 th year, this year FachPack is a European trade fair covering everything concerning packaging. This European Trade Show for Packaging, Technology, Processing and Logistics, which takes place in Nuremberg from 29 September to 1 October, began in 1979 with 80 exhibitors and around 2,000 visitors. At its most recent event in 2013, its 1,439 exhibitors attracted 34,598 visitors. photos: Deutscher Verpackungspreis The unusual cylindrical shape of Müller s Soft Star Tissue packaging, which was designed by Eigler Hemann Design and manufactured by Mayr-Melnhof Packaging, has embossing combined with UV gloss and matt finishes. The flexible packaging PacXpert Packaging Technology by Dow provides an alternative to rigid containers such as buckets and canisters with volumes from 2 to 20 litres. The re-closable spout, in combination with flexible packaging, prevents exposure to oxygen. Due to the two handles on the top and bottom, pouring can be controlled. The packaging submitted by Dow Europe was developed by Smart Bottle/Fripoo and manufactured by O Kleiner for Migros. The young talent s Brush-twist consists of two half-spheres that plug into each other to combine a hair care and brush. The top half with holes is filled with care emulsion, while the inside of the lower has bristles that precisely fit into the holes. By turning the ball the bristles absorb the care emulsion, while excess emulsion is scraped off at the holes when parting the ball, therefore enabling perfect dosage. This solution was developed by Wiebke Hoyer, Jendrik Kleefeld, Eva Lünser, Nadine Nering, Christina Nowack and Inga Olsen from HAWK Gestaltung. The awarding of the German Packaging Award 2015 winners will take place in the afternoon of 28 September 2015 at the opening of the FachPack in Nuremberg. Dispensing bottle that can accurately dose differing volumes without new tools The Brush-twist combines hair care and brush Versatile line for cosmetics Rationator Rationator presents its versatile line concept, which allows not only the economical and efficient processing of cosmetic products ranging in volume from 30 up to 1,000 ml, but also warrants the capacity to fill up to 100 items per minute. The line to be exhibited consists of the bottle handling unit Bottlemat, the filling section Robomat autocip, and the rotating capping element Robocap DP for the automated processing of dosing and spray pumps. The Ratilight Puck Transport System for smooth and user-friendly production keeps the format parts needed at a minimum and the production costs low. Furthermore, the company s machines and units allow bottle and capping formats to be switched quickly as various and reasonably priced pucks are in stock at all times. Up to 100 items ranging in volume from 30 up to 1,000 ml can be filled per minute photo: Rationator 50 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

51 Health and Beauty empowering international business in health and beauty markets PRINT ONLINE & LIVE TV TRADE FAIRS 35 professional magazines 20 trade fairs 20 countries and 18 languages 15 subsidiaries Belgium China Denmark Germany England Greece Hongkong India Italy The Netherlands Austria Poland Romania Russia Switzerland Slovakia Slovenia Spain Turkey Hungary Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Straße 2, Ettlingen General Manager: Jürgen Volpp Registergericht Mannheim HRB USt-ID: DE

52 PRODUCTION PACKAGING Latest developments Tubes you can smell Tubes are gaining ground. In 2014, their annual production in Europe grew by 2 %. What are the latest developments which might spur this market on even more? photo: Kittikorn Phongok, Shutterstock.com In cooperation with Tubex, the supplier of scented coatings Follmann has developed a scented plastic tube a further possible application for scent varnishes. The micro-encapsulated scented varnishes Folco Scent, which have virtually unlimited creative options, are suitable for almost all printing methods. For the creation of the scented tubes, two printing methods were used. The photorealistic printed image on the tubes, which depict sev- Flexible Filling Lines RATILIGHT Pucksystem: FachPack 2015 Hall 2 Stand 202 All in one! ADVERTISEMENT New Irises for Summer Doubling the existing range of Iris bottles, M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies, has produced four new standards which are now available, from 50ml to 200ml. The convex surface of these elliptical bottles offers a large area for decoration or labelling while retaining an aesthetic form. The new standards are: 2283: 50ml Non-aerosol Iris in PVC/PETG (with Iris overcap in HDPE/PP: 8320) 5586: 75ml Iris in HDPE/PP 5467: 200ml Tall Iris in HDPE/PP 5585: 250ml Iris in HDPE/PP with efficient end-to-end solutions faster, safer and inexpensive. We are looking forward to sharing our expertise with you! Bottle handling I Filling I Capping I Transportation in Pucks RATIONATOR Maschinenbau GmbH Alsheimer Straße Hillesheim Germany 52 l COSSMA 9I 2015 Tel Fax sales@rationator.de Further Information: sales@mhplastics.com phone +44 (0)

53 PACKAGING PRODUCTION A scented plastic tube a further possible application for microencapsulated scent varnishes eral lavender blossoms, was achieved by means of four colour flexo printing. The UV LED inks were cured by using a state of the art LED drying technology and finished with a UV gloss coating. Taking the offline principle, the tube was scented by screen printing with a micro-encapsulated scent varnish. The micro-encapsulation makes Printable plastic laminate tubes for small and medium series are the latest trend Home-compostable paper tube suitable for anhydrous semi-solid formulations photo: Eco Vision photo: Ets Bugnon photo: Follman Growth for European tube production In spite of a difficult environment the annual production of the European tube industry grew by almost 2 % to 10.5 billion tubes* in 2014 despite flagging economies in the Southern Europe and the explosive situation in Ukraine and Russia. The annual production of Etma s member companies accounts for about 80 per cent of all tube production in Europe. Aluminium tubes are responsible for about 40 per cent of total production, followed by laminate and plastic tubes each with a market share of about 30 per cent. To a large extent, these figures have been stable for years, even though the growth in laminate tubes was somewhat more pronounced in The apportionment of tube production to the individual market segments also remained almost unchanged in Just under 45 per cent of all tubes produced find a use in the cosmetics market, followed by a 20 per cent market share each for the pharmaceutical and dental care sectors. Industrial products and household uses together total about five per cent; the food sector recorded slightly above average gains and now has a market share of ten per cent. The industry is under enormous pressure because of decreasing delivery times and batch sizes. The tendency of clients to keep virtually no stock at all with the resultant just-in-time production, coupled with smaller quantities being ordered and extremely short order cycles, require constant optimisation of production and logistics along the whole process chain. *Etma, the European tube manufacturers association New line of multi-layered laminate tubes with high-shine metallic effects for airless dispensing photo: Fusion Packaging New laminate containing a high-gloss metallic film for a more brilliant shine photo: Huhtamaki sure that the scent is only released by a mechanical action, i.e. when the user touches it. Due to the combination of these two printing methods, four-colour flexo printing and screen printing with a scent varnish, a product can be produced that appeals to just about every consumers sense. Huhtamaki s new laminate Silver-Glam is a laminate that contains a high-gloss metallic film which gives the laminate a brilliant shine. It can be printed in all kinds of different colours and allows endless decoration possibilities, as well as guaranteeing a smooth manufacturing process. Due to the composition of this laminate, even bigger tubes can provide a high degree of stiffness. The laminate is available with or without a barrier. The new Shine FX Tubes by Fusion Packaging are a line of multi-layered laminate tubes with brilliant, highshine metallic effects. These tubes, building upon the company s stock tube collection, offer a wide variety of vibrant decoration options that provide brands with a luxury aesthetic in a cost effective tube format. For brands seeking the added benefit of airless dispensing, such as precision dosing and near 100% product evacuation, the company s Fresh, Poise, Pure and Tru Airless Tube collections can also be customized as part of the Shine FX premium tube collection. According to Ets Bugnon plastic laminate tubes for small and medium series are the latest trend. They can be printed in CMYK ink jet in a high resolution, so that no offset printing plates are required. Their EVOH barrier protects chemical formulas. They can be supplied with a special first use flip top cap. Eco Vision has developed homecompostable paper tubes that are suitable for anhydrous semi-solid formulations, such as lip balms, underarm deodorants, insect repellants and sunscreens. Even though modern plastic tube technology provides excellent product protection, attractiveness and convenience, few commercially available tubes are recyclable due to the various plastics that are used. Eco Vision s Eco Tubes are the first of their kind because they are made of paper and food grade casein. When composted in healthy soil, these Eco Tubes biodegrade in about three weeks. They are recyclable with household paper, which is by far the most recycled post consumer waste stream. They provide good product protection and are convenient to use. Kate Humble, the TV broadcaster and writer, recently launched a new range of personal care products inspired by love of nature and the countryside. M&H Plastics, part of the RPC Group of companies, has manufactured the tubes using 100% post-consumer regrind (PCR) polymers. AM COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 53

54 SERVICES FORMULATIONS In our October issue we will be focussing on formulations for antiageing products. In November it will be the turn of sprays and foams. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled. However, neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. Body care There is a wide variety of body care products, and the choice of formulations we are offering here for your inspiration mirrors exactly this diversity. We have selected more than 30 different formulations ranging from the everyday body lotion and shower gel to deodorants. Of course, the full version of each formulation is available, too. You can take a closer look at them or download them free of charge from our homepage at AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC Contact: Stenungsund, Sweden Phone: +46 (0) Fax: +46 (0) personalcare.europe@akzonobel.com Profile: Our scientific approach to innovation, expertise and best-in-class technologies is the backbone of our ingredient development, which aims to deliver the essential functionalities you need to create the finest personal care products. Formulas: Cationic Skin Moisturizing Lotion Extra Mild Clear Shower Gel Revitalizing Hydration In-Shower Lotion Rich, Creamy and Smooth Liquid Soap Silky Smooth Antiperspirant Stick Caring Shower Gel A. Brasca Ready-to-use Oil Gel Bases Alfa Chemicals Cost Effective Body Wash Azelis Sprayable Body Lotion BASF Feel Good Deo Balm Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Floratech presents an interesting alternative to the everyday body lotion with its Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque. Another unusual idea is Croda s Crystal Clear SOS Nourishing Stick, the Ready-touse Oil Gel Bases by Alfa Chemicals, BASF s Sprayable Body Lotion, or the Body Oil against Dry Skin by GfN Selco. Morrocoan Shine Brenntag Foamy Fun 2 Phase Facial Cleanser C.H. Erbslöh Body Care Test Formulations with Glucotain Clariant Repair & Care Après Body Cream (O/W) CLR Crystal Clear SOS Nourishing Stick Croda Natural First Aid Body Lotion Dr. Straetmans Asian Beauty Secrets W/Si Illuminating Cream Eckart Effect Pigments Cationic Hand Cream Evonik Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque Floratech Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face * Access codes for downloading the formulations can be found on the internet panel on this page Body Oil against Dry Skin GfN Selco Shower Bubble Greentech Crystal Leave-On Conditioner HallStar LexFeel 350 Citrus Scrubble Inolex Wax Treatment Dip for Hands and Nails Lipo Chemicals Vantage Specialties Light Sun Cream SPF 15 Lubrizol Ultra-Reshaping Body Gel Cream Lucas Meyer Hazelnut Massage Butter Naturochim Whitening Body Lotion Principium Soft for Longer Deodorant Sederma Elves Light Body Lotion Sisterna 54 l COSSMA 0 I 2015

55 EVENTS SERVICES Platform for controversial topics Visit us! Hall XX Stand XX A large variety of additional benefits Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference 2015 The upcoming Natural and Organic Cosmetics Conference is being held on October at the Hotel Ellington Berlin in Germany. A currently hotly debated topic within the cosmetics industry is the expected ISO-Guidelines. After all, the new guidelines for organic cosmetics could water down the existing standards considerably. The market needs answers, how to differentiate in the future between organic cosmetics and those with new claims that are based on the ISO-Guidelines, says Conference Chairwoman Elfriede Dambacher*. The discussion with experts at this year s conference, as well as the statements BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH It goes without saying that this year s 30 th anniversary of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, celebrated with a large variety of add-ons, is an absolute must. Please, note that this year s show at the International Trade Fair in Munich takes place one week earlier than in previous years. So make sure that you pencil in October 17 and 18. This birthday edition featuring a total of about 880 exhibiting companies and brands, as well as the two new sciencebased conferences on foot care and anti-ageing among others really is something to look forward to. International visitors will receive access free of charge. With the help of this free registration service, you can personally invite your own international contacts: More information about the show at The discussion with experts on controversial topics should prove fascinating photo: Rawpixel, Shutterstock.com At the show you do not only meet all the relevant beauty professionals but grasp what the latest innovations are all about provided by the relevant certifying organizations, should prove to be fascinating. The multi-faceted program for the conference will attract international participants from the industry and retail, therefore offering ample opportunities for in-depth and international networking. On the day prior to the Conference, the Trendtour Berlin will take participants to newly discovered hotspots of natural cosmetics in the city of Berlin (2 6 p.m.) * Elfriede Dambacher, conference chairwoman, managing director of the publishing company Naturkosmetik Verlag and expert for organic cosmetics is hosting the conference in cooperation with NürnbergMesse, organizer of Vivaness, the trade fair for natural cosmetics. Get connected - now photo: Rawpixel, Shutterstock.com After having pre-arranged meetings with your potential future business partners, you can meet them in person at this year s BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH BEAUTY FORUM connect Have you registered yet with the B2B online matchmaking tool BEAUTY FORUM connect to participate at the 2 nd edition of this live matchmaking event? This B2B Sales Matching tool, which is supplied exclusively by this year s 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH from October 17-18, will help make your visit to the show the most successful matchmaking event ever. The online platform lists the exhibitors of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH. Once you have registered (for free if you are an exhibitor) you can access all information on the international cosmetics suppliers and distributors from around the globe, who are seeking to collaborate and expand their businesses. There are currently almost 350 company profiles listed. The database will be very helpful when identifying potential business partners that meet your desired requirements. You will then be able to organize oneto-one 30-minute pre-scheduled meetings during this year s international trade fair BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015 on October COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 55

56 EVENTS ADVERTISEMENT LUXE PACK MONACO 2015 New exhibition areas and new content for this strategic event LUXE PACK MONACO 2015 will take place from Wednesday 21 to Friday 23 October in the Grimaldi Forum. LUXE PACK meets the growing demands of brands in every sector Reprising the basics of what has made this event such a benchmark worldwide for creative packaging in every sector, this 28 th edition gives pride of place to innovation, and promises a significant increase in the number of exhibitors: New spaces opening this year within the Grimaldi Forum, enabling still more exhibitors to be received: more than 450 are expected this year! The INDIGO space (formerly Café Llorca) is now fitted out as an exhibition space, and the Diaghilev Hall will be enlarged this year. Be this as it may, there is no question of any let-up concerning the criteria of know-how, innovation and creativity that have marked out the event since its inception, and which have contributed to the International reputation of LUXE PACK. LUXE PACK Arena : a new space dedicated to the innovations and top productions of exhibitors; an opportunity for visitors to obtain a summary overview of the know-how on show at the exhibition, to make a quick search, to discover brand-new solutions and to be directed rapidly toward the relevant manufacturers. An exclusive roundtable for discussing the digital revolution that has taken hold in the packaging world. Visitors will be able to discover increasingly sophisticated packaging, shipping more and more features, capable of interacting with consumers, of combating fraud, and so on. Another prospective roundtable with a particular focus on the techniques of finishing, decoration and printing on all types of material (glass, plastic, metal, paper, wood, leather, porcelain, etc.). Participants will also be able to find new solutions to cultivate the principle of the exclusivity and rarity of their products. Retail in pack : In partnership with the ENSAAMA Academy, LUXE PACK offers an exclusive presentation of the 56 l COSSM9 9 I 2015

57 ADVERTISEMENT EVENTS creation of luxury wine & spirit brands, and their repositioning with respect to new consumption practices. A touch of inspiration for visitors. Once again there is a programme of conferences and debates offering the floor to the top experts and providing, through the testimonies of the brand movers and shakers, specific content for their audiences on topical subjects as diverse as the trends and challenges of the sector against the background of COP 21, the crossover influences between the packagings of wines & spirits and perfumes, strategies for Asia in 2025, and many more still. LUXE PACK continues to develop and unremittingly innovate in order to meet the growing demands of brands in every sector. Nathalie Grosdidier, General Director of LUXE PACK MONACO, confirms this: Aside from its strict packaging side, the packaging develops from year to year. As a unique event and global platform, LUXE PACK needs unceasingly to mark itself out by its capacity to propose avant-garde solutions and explore new avenues for visitors who are always in search of exclusive and creative inspiration. It is with this objective in mind that we selected, for this new edition, several new exhibitors with extraordinary know-how, and that we shall be focusing particularly on the underlying trends, such as the digital revolution, or techniques for differentiation through finishing/decoration, among others. LUXE formulation 2015 A 2 nd edition that picks up and builds upon the keys to its previous success A popular hit for its first edition, LUXE formulation will run from Wednesday 21 to Friday 23 October 2015, in parallel with the LUXE PACK Monaco trade fair. Proposing an expanded panel of exhibitors, it constitutes a true fair within the fair, bringing together all the know-how and fields of expertise involved in formulation, standard or contract manufacturing, contract packaging and other associated services. It will also offer rich and exclusive content through a programme of conferences and workshops, addressing issues that are specific to this universe, which so often serves as the bridge between container and content. A visit to LUXE formulation is an absolute must for any professional from the beauty sector. Formulas evolve very quickly. This momentum is generated by an ever stricter legislative framework and frenetic competition to bring game-changing innovations to market. This revolution in formulas cannot take place without the packaging. It is precisely this dynamic correlation that LUXE PACK brings to the fore through LUXE formulation. When launched last year, the objective of the LUXE formulation space was clear: to accompany the perfume-cosmetics brands from formulation through to packaging. A benchmark worldwide for creative packaging in every sector The gambit paid off! Indeed, with the creation of this new space, LUXE PACK proposes a complete overview of the perfumes-cosmetics sector at a time when container-content interaction is essential. Profiting from the international reach of LUXE PACK, and from its legitimate claim to propose such an offer (60% of the visitors are influencers from the perfume-cosmetics brands), many exhibitors are coming back for a second time. New players have also signed up for this second edition, thereby creating a true microcosm of businesses at the cutting edge of innovation, and thereby able to support brands with their projects that push back the envelope in terms of formulation, standard or contract manufacturing, or contract packaging. These include names such as BCM Cosmétiques, Lessonia, Alpol Cosmétiques, Elidose, and many others whose projects may be discovered at the show. Once again this year, in this propitious environment, there will be a conference program dealing with cutting-edge topics: transformation textures, colour, trends in the beauty sector, organic cosmetics, container-content interactions, and many other topical subjects. Finally, other new and captivating events await this year s visitors, always with the objective of providing high value-added content. Perfumes and containers will be given particular pride of place by way of the History of perfumes exhibition proposed in partnership with the Grasse International Perfume Museum. This will offer a true voyage of initiation, taking the brands from Grasse to Rome, by way of the Orient and Greece. In association with the latest innovations from the sector as presented by the exhibitors, this temporary exhibition will offer the decision-makers from the beauty brands a true intercultural palette of influences to inspire their subsequent launches. LUXE PACK proposes new avenues for visitors who are always in search of exclusive and creative inspiration Luxe Pack 2015 For updated information, please visit our website: COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 57

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59 EVENTS SERVICES Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? MakeUp New York Beauteam in New York USA Happi Anti-Aging Conference & New Brunswick, NJ Happi Tabletop Exhibition USA conference.happi.com Faszination Haar + Kosmetik Erfurt Messe Erfurt GmbH Germany Basisseminar zum Frankfurt a.m. IKW EU-Kosmetikrecht Germany Cosmeeting Paris Informa France Luxury Packaging London Easyfairs Great Britain InterCHARM Kiev Premier Expo Ukraine Ukraine Sunscreen Symposium Orlando, FL SCC USA K-Beauty Expo Seoul Kintex South Korea IFSCC Conference Zurich IFSCC Switzerland Seminar: Lohnherstellung Mannheim Forum Institut für Management im Kosmetikbereich Germany Cosmobeauté Thailand Bangkok ITE Group Thailand Beauty Trends & London Global Insight Innovations Conference Great Britain Univers Beauté Brussels Business France Belgium Beyond Beauty Asean Bangkok Informa Thailand BEAUTY FORUM & SPA POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland info@health-and-beauty.com.pl IFEAT Conference Colombo IFEAT Sri Lanka Sustainable Cosmetics São Paulo Organic Monitor Summit Brasil DGK-Workshop: Tübingen DGK e.v. Moderne Hautpflegemittel Germany Packaging Innovations London easyfairs Great Britain Seminar: Kosmetikrecht Basel Forum Institut für Management Switzerland In-Cosmetics Brasil São Paulo Reed Exhibitions Brasil Cosmetic Safety Assessments Secaucus, NJ Cosmetic Campus in accordance to European USA Cosmetics Regulation 1223/ Natural Cosmetics Berlin Naturkosmetik Verlag Congress Germany Esthetiworld Mailand SoGeCos Italy California Suppliers Day Long Beach, CA SCC California USA Wabel Household and Paris Wabel Personal Care Summit France SEPAWA Congress Fulda SEPAWA Germany Anti Ageing London AACL Conference Great Britain COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 59

60 COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :59 Seite 76 SERVICES COS _B SUPPLIERS SUPPLIERS GUIDE GUIDE Suppliers Guide H. Erhar H. Erhar Bre Bre Tel. (0421 Tel. ( COS1508 COS1508_01_Titel_COS1402_01_Titel_GB :59 Seite 1 COS1507_Clariant_02_215x290mm_1/1_A :33 Seite 1 Volume / E On the following pages you GlucoTain. will finddiscover a selection of HOW SHOULD CLEAN FEEL FOR suppliers to theyou? cosmetics industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the section English headings. section headings. You can also find a full overview, with a search function, at COSMETICS S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y A NEW SENSORY DIMENSION OF PERSONAL CARE. Marketing Natural cosmetics: What are the current challenges? Aer Aeroso osoll Mix Mixing Mis ing Ball Mischk Ballss chkuge ugeln ln für für Aer Aeroso osole le DISCOVER VALUE C.E C.E.. R ROEP SiLibead s gla glass ss ba balls Ae Ae SUP SUPPLIE PLIERS RS GUID GUIDE E Car Carmin mine e Kar Karmin min Hans-Dunck OEPER Hans-Duncker-StraER Tel er-straße Tel / 7 34 ße 13. E-Mai / Hamb l: office@ Fax Hamburg Fax office@roepe urg 40 // 73 roeper.de r.de oeper.de de Ingredients Sustainable production methods for ingredients with proven results Con Contrac tractt Filli Filling Loh ng Lohnab nabfüllu füllung ng Cer Certific tificatio ation Zer n Zertifiz tifizieru ierung ng S SE ER RV VIC ICE ES S Market survey Alo Aloe e Ver Veraa Alo Aloe Who has what e Ver Veraa C.E C.E.. R ROEP HansOEPER ingredienttel. portfolio Duncker-Stra HansER Duncker-Straße Tel ße // E-Mai Hambu Fax Hamburg Fax office@roepe on offer? l: office@ rg 40 // 73 roeper.de r.de COSSMA Cosmetics, Spray Technology and Marketing Alu Alumin minium ium Sea Seall Clo Alu Closure Alu-Sie suress -Siegelgel-Ver Versch schlüss lüsse e the Month You You are are look looking ing for for exp export ort con contact tacts? s? Che Check ck the the Inte Interna rnation tional B2B al B2B Exc Exchan hange ge on on pag pagee in in this this issu issue. e. Sergio Manzano, Clariant, about efficient sugar-based surfactants with sensory benefits Focus: Natural cosmetics 7-8 / Alu Alu-Sie -Siegelv gelversc Alu erschlüs Alu-Fo hlüsse -Folien se lien für Glasfür Glas- u. tstoff in Klein u. Kuns in Kleinst- Kunststoff-Beh -Behälter älter u. Mass in jeder st- u. enauflage in jeder Größ Massenauf lage Qualität Größee zu zu jedem jedem Zwec Qualität seit 1957 Zweckk seit 1957 DER DERSCH SCHLAG Stan :37 LAG Gmb Stanzerei GmbH zerei und 5731 H& und Folie & Co Co. KG Folienver 9 Bad KG Bad Berl Tel.: nverarbe Berlebur arbeitung Tel.: 0 eburg itung /2 g 0 51/20 27, 27, Fax: Fax: /2 51/ _Umschlag.indd 1 Zella ng Zellaeros erosol Wies ol Gmb GmbH Wiesenst H enstraße D-79 raße 13 D Zell/ Telef Zell/Wies Wiesenta Telefon entall on 0 Telef // 92 Telefax ax E-M // 92 ail: info@ Inter info@zella 4 Internet: zellaeros net: www erosol.de ol.de.zellaeros erosol.de ol.de Wir Wir habe habenn uns Hers uns spez spezialisi Herstellen ialisiert tellen,, Fülle ert auf Füllenn und auf das das und Vers Verschlie chließen Stan ßen von Standard von dardsach sachets ets Zeits Zeitschrif chriftens tensache achets Onpa Onpacksa ts cksachet chetss Kont Konturen urensach sachets ets Tüch Tüchlein lein Lohn-P Lohn-Pack ack K.A.W K.A.Wolf olf GmbH GmbH && Co. KG Dorfw Dorfwiesens Co. KG iesenstraße Tel. traße,, Tel Florst Florstadt 41 // 82 Mail: adt , Mail: kontak 27, Fax Fax kontakt@loh t@lohn-pack 41 // n-pack.com 76.com You Yourr com compan panyy cou could ld be be plac placed ed her heree for for onl onlyy ,50,50 per per issu issue. e. Boo Bookk you yourr ad ad toda today. y. Cal Calll (0)7 (0) We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices. GANZ EIN Co Cosm smet etic Ko ic In Kosm Ingr smet gred edie etik ik-r ient -Roh ntss ohst stof offe fe HER HERSTE STELLE LLEN N von von Salben, Po Polyu lyuret an andd senretha hane sensor nes, cos cosme soryy ads, film film for metic formi addit tic for ming ditive cos formu ng po ivess for cosme mulat polym metics lation ww ionss for you your lymers tics@b ers w.baye ayerco ayerm rmate rcosm ateria smeti rialsc etics. lscien cs.com com ience. ce.com com Salben, Gelen Gelen,, Creme Liquid Liquida, Cremes, a, Pulve s, Zahnp Pulver; Zahnpasta, oder r; Suppo asta, Suppositorie oder Aluze sitorienn in PVCAluzellen. llen. in PVC- ABF ABFÜLL ÜLLEN EN in in Alu-, Alu-, Kunst KunststoffTiege stoff-,, Lamin Tiegel,l, Flasch Laminattub Flaschen, attuben, en, en, Beute Beutel,l, Dosen Dosen.. 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Mode etik ulas DokuModernes Advertis Mikro ik-s as rnes Labor ertising -Spa Mikrobiolog Labor mit ing dea biologie. pate mit deadlin ie. tell dline: 09.0 e: Wir Wir pac packen 15 ken alle Kon Konfektion alless ein Plea Kom fektionieru ein -- sch go Please schnel Kommis do go Me se nelll und ierung, in not hes sio mis do Me din Kle itate in ng, nie not und hesitate to con sionierun Loh zuv ding Kru Lohnve VerKleinzuverlä g Gm in- und Kruppstr rungg von to contact nverpa erlässig und Gro Verpac pp GmbH Tel bh ssig hav von Wa rpacku packen tact us dis Großau Tel.:.: +4straße ckung havee any aße 8 ken von us if you displa ßauflag Waren ng und if 99 (0) ys Fa pla +4 ren und von any furt you me D-5 8 flag en Pro und und x: ys Fax: +4 (0) 23 D-585 Produk und Aufmehrt further und Art en her que hrteilig info Artike duktke +499 (0) ver questio Aufste eiligen Set ikeln info@m 53 Ha 53 // 91 tkennz verfolg stio ns steller en Sets, ln Halve nnzeic (0) 23 folgung llernn GE lverr Ful ww ung eichnu s, Ver 58-0 ns 53 // 91 hnuwa ng Full-Se Verkau ing.co www. eding NE GE -0 Call l-servic ng und kau GANZ.com vom R NE w.m Call:: Dor undeinfa rvicee GANZ m Cha RNGfs-fs-& CO vom Ein med CH : LEISTU & Doroth EINFA Charge 28 CO edin run othea CH nrü Einkau : LEISTU ea Mic rungg bis seit ing. kauff der Wagener rge cknrü Michae g.co +49 Cel ck- NG seit 1964 hae lis bis zum der MaWage com (0)7 ner & Cellop lis zum Ver Mater & Co m (0)721 Co GmbH lophan teriali GmbH VersanPostf hanieru Postf en ialiach dd Ihre ach ierung santelefo en übe -144tatQu 4951 Qualit 1645 rr Lag ng alitäts Ihrern Pro Lenge Telefo ätssich 00übe rn Pro 54 Lagetation duk 81 ion dessicheru 54 te e Lengerich rich E-Ma duk De 81 / des geserung / Derm te ng mit il: konta gesam kontakt@w mit lüc rmat Intern amten kt@wagene ken atol ten Prolüc et: Intern Fal agener-co.d kenlos www Cl olog et: Produk Falken r-co.dee er.wage los www og in Cl ic Dok duktion kenhor er ner-co.wage inic ical Dokumen- ner-co.de tionsproze horste ical al + umensprozesse sterr Ver 094.de al Te Wo Äu Test Verpac Äußer sses. 29 Wolke packun stss ßerer s. Fax er Ho Hofrinkungen Fax: +49Fon Fon: lkenstein gen Gm Yo Your ur co com mpa pany pl ny co plac aced coul ed he uldd be here be re fo 12 forr on 120, only 0,40 40 pe ly perr is Bo issu Book sue. ok yo e. your ur ad Ca ad to Callll +4 toda day (0 y. (0)7 ) Si Si gl GU GUID IDE E FA CH: LEISTUFA NG TIONIE NIEREN von REN von pharm pharmazeut azeutischen chemi ischen,, kosm chemischen kosmetisch schen Produ etischen, Produkten, Genuß en, kten, Nahru Genußmitte Nahrungsmitteln. ngs- und ln. Plea Please se not note: e: 05/2 05/ Q_ Q_ _0 _08_ 8_GB GB :2 :222 Se Seite ite SU SUPP PPLIE LIERS RS Co Cont ntra ract Ph ct M Phar Man arm anuf mac ac.. + Coufac actu turin + Cosm ring g smet etic icss Loh Lohnab nabfüllu füllung oeper.de de VIP of SE SERV RVICE ICES S Con Contrac tractt Man Manufac ufacturin ++ Pac turing g Packag Loh kaging Lohnhe ing nherste rstellun llung g ++ Verp Verpack ackung ung Markets lls for ae for aero roso soll sp SIGM spra Middle East: What rays S I G MU N D Phone ys UND LINDN Phone(++49) L I N D NE R G (++49)92 E-Mai 9277 E R Gm Fax mb bh Fax(++49) H sili@sigmun (++49)92 igmund-lind 9277 opportunities are l: sili@s www d-lindner.co 99 sili.eu ner.com m there for growth? A range of individual foam structures from fluffy to rich, from light to caring feel that s GlucoTain. Send an to dorothea.michaelis@ health-and-beauty.com Ade Adeps ps Lan Lanae ae Ade Adeps ps Lan Lanae ae H. H. Erha Erhard rd Wag 2870 Wagner Bremen, ner Gmb GmbH Bremen, Postf Tel. H Postfach Tel. (04 (04 21) ach 77 21) www ,, Fax Fax (04.wagnerla (04 21) nerlanolin 21) nolin.com com 15 GlucoTain is a range of sugar-based and sulfate-free surfactants combining expert care with cleaning power. It is the perfect solution for natural and mild products without compromising on performance for hair and skin care applications. An innovation that pleases the senses. Should your company be listed here? Seit Seite e MARKETING Pho SIG ne (++ EPho GM ne S I49) MU E -- M UN M aa i(++ ND L I 49) 927 i ll :: s i 9277 D L IN NE s i ll 10N D N ER G s D Fax R Gm ww ii g Fax (++ gm mu ww w.s mb (++49) un bh nd w.s ili. d -- l i n49) H994 ili. eu eu l i n d dn n ee r.7 c r. c o m om A Ad dve vert rtis isin ing g H Ho otl tlin + inee (0 (0)7 ) H. H. Er Erha 28 hard Brerd W Wag Tel agne Tel.. (041 Breme nerr Gm (04 21) men, ww n, Po GmbH Postf stfac 6936 w.wagn) 69 ach bh ,, Fa h gnerl erlan Faxx ( anoli ( olin.c n.com om 21)) Adeps Lanae Adeps Lanae Li Lip p Ba Balm Li lm Fu Lip Fullll Se p Ba Balm Servic lm Fu Fullll Se rv icee Serv rvic icee H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) Aerosol Mixing Balls Mischkugeln für Aerosole Alum Alum ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: SiLibeads Fax +49 (0)721 (0) glass balls for Start winning tomorrow s customer today with your entry in the suppliers guide width of column: price per mm height: for a period of: advertising deadline: 43 mm 3,10 1 year 10th day of each month before publication Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers guide at a price of 3,10 per column mm for each entry. You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax. Company: Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: Category/ies: SIGMUND aerosol sprays Street, P.O. Box: Post Code, City: Country: Height i. mm: mm 4 colour (Euro scale) To be first published in issue: 09/ /2015 For a period of: 10/2015 Aloe Vera black and white Aloe Vera pro ALU REEL SPEC ❿ COND ❿ INDU ❿ INDU ❿ ❿ BALLERST DE P.O. Box Phone +4 C.E. ROEPER 11/ /2016 Hans-Duncker-Straße Hamburg Tel. 40 / Fax 0 40 / / office@roeper.de. 1 year test: 3 month Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including mobile phone), by , or in writing! Aluminium Seal Closures Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Phone: Fax: LINDNER GmbH Phone(++49) Fax(++49) sili@sigmund-lindner.com Contact: C.E. C.E. R RO O Hans-Duncke Hans-Duncke Tel / 7 34 Tel / office office Date, Signature Alu-Sie Alu-Fo für Glas in Klein in jeder Qualität DERSCH Stanzere Ba Che Tel.: 0 27 COSSMA 97I2015 COSSMA - 8 I 2015 COS1509_Services.indd :57 Your

61 COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :00 Seite 77 SUPPLIERS GUIDE GUIDE SUPPLIERS Adeps Lanae COS1504_61_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB SiLibeads SiLibeads glass balls for glass balls for aerosol sprays sprays aerosol Phone 10 Lanae 92m 77b -9H 9499 S I G(++49) MAdeps U92 N77 D -9L94 IN DFax N(++49) ER G sili@sigmund-lindner.com Phone (++49) Fax(++49) Lanae Adeps sili@sigmund-lindner.com SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) eps Lanae eps Lanae Carmine Aloe Vera Karmin Aloe Vera gner GmbH Postfach , Fax (04 21) nolin.com l Mixing Balls eln für Aerosole Lohnabfüllung APPLICATORS APPLICATORS Localized application of cosmetic and Localized application of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products pharmaceutical products Foam applicators Mini-roll-ons for for blemish sticks Aerosol Mixing Balls Balls Aerosol Mixing COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :20 Seite 61 GANZ EINFACH: Applicators H. Erhard Erhard Wagner Wagner GmbH GmbH H Bremen, Bremen,Postfach Postfach Tel. (04 (0421) Fax (04 (0421) Tel. 21) , , Fax 21) Aerosol Mixing Balls C.E. C.E. R ROEPER OEPER Mischkugeln für Aerosole Hans-Duncker-Straße Hamburg Hans-Duncker-Straße Hamburg Tel / Fax 40 / Tel / Fax 0 40 / office@roeper.de office@roeper.de Certification Aluminium Seal Closures Closures Zertifizierung Aluminium Seal SiLibeads glass balls for sprays aerosol protecting your products akne products after bite sticks markers 13: Seite 61 Bauerstraße 22 D München Bauerstraße 22 D München Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) zentrale@zelinkagmbh.com Carmine Carmine Karmin C.E. ROEPER Hamburg Hamburg Hans-Duncker-Straße // Tel / Fax office@roeper.de. Contract Filling Lohnabfüllung Certification Consultants Zertifizierung Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D Zell/Wiesental Telefon / Telefax / info@zellaerosol.de Internet: Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von Standardsachets Zeitschriftensachets Onpacksachets Konturensachets Tüchlein Lohn-Pack K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, Florstadt Tel / , Fax / Mail: kontakt@lohn-pack.com Contract Filling Lohnabfüllung SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES SERVICES Contract Manufacturing Contract Manufacturing + Packaging + Packaging Contract Manufacturing + Packaging Lohnherstellung + Verpackung Sworn Experts Developing new compositions Samples/small batches Toxicological safety reports Product Documentations Marketability/Export Reports Quality assessments SVB Dr. Lautenbacher GmbH Tel: info@svb-lautenbacher.de LEISTUNG HERSTELLEN HERSTELLEN von Salben, Salben, Gelen, Gelen, Cremes, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Zahnpasta, von Liquida, Pulver; Pulver; Suppositorien Suppositorien in in PVCPVCLiquida, oder Aluzellen. Aluzellen. oder ABFÜLLEN ABFÜLLEN in Alu-, Alu-, Kunststoff-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Laminattuben, in Tiegel, Flaschen, Flaschen, Beutel, Beutel, Dosen. Dosen. Tiegel, KONFEKTIONIEREN KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, kosmetischen, von chemischen Produkten, Produkten, NahrungsNahrungs- und und chemischen Genußmitteln. Genußmitteln. SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES DOKUMENTIEREN GMP-gerechte Kontrolle Kontrolle und und DokuDokuGMP-gerechte mentation. Modernes Modernes Labor Labor mit mit mentation. Mikrobiologie. Mikrobiologie. Contract Manufacturing + Packaging Lohnherstellung + Verpackung WAGENER & & CO CO WAGENER : GANZ EINFACH LEISTUNG seit 1964 GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG seit 1964 Wagener & & Co Co GmbH GmbH Wagener Postfach Lengerich Lengerich Postfach Telefon / / Telefon kontakt@wagener-co.de kontakt@wagener-co.de Internet: Internet: Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. + Cosmetics SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH beads s balls for sol sprays D LINDNER GmbH Phone(++49) Fax(++49) sili@sigmund-lindner.com ❿ ALU SEALSwww.sili.eu REEL STOCK IN VARIOUS SPECIFICATIONS ❿ CONDUCTION SEALING MACHINES ❿ INDUCTION SEALING Aloe VeraMACHINES ❿ INDUCTION Aloe VeraLINERS SEALING ❿ Contract Filling Contract Filling Lohnabfüllung C.E. ROEPER Hamburg Fax 0 40 / de. nth m Seal Closures el-verschlüsse BACO - I IC E Ü AL H R E N D B E V ITÄ R T UND SE F QU R P.O. Box 1124 Phone / ÜSSE HL mm loe Vera ite Vera loe BALLERSTAEDT & CO. OHG Hans-Duncker-Straße Hamburg GEL-VERSC SIE 35 Tel.DE / Fax 0 40 / Rastatt office@roeper.de. Aluminium Seal Closures Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Alu-Folien für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter You are looking in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage for in jeder Größe zu export jedem Zweck Qualität seit 1957 contacts? DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung Bad Berleburg Check the International Tel.: /20 27, Fax: /20 25 B2B Exchange on page 48 in this issue. Lohnabfüllung Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße You 13 are looking D Zell/Wiesental for Telefon export / Telefax 0 76contacts? 25 / info@zellaerosol.de Internet: Check the International B2B Exchange onspezialisiert page 48 auf das Wir haben uns Herstellen,in Füllen Verschließen von thisund issue. Standardsachets Zeitschriftensachets Onpacksachets Konturensachets Tüchlein Lohn-Pack K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, Florstadt Tel / , Fax / Mail: kontakt@lohn-pack.com Your company could be placed here for only 232,50 per issue. COS1509_Services.indd 61 Your company could be Please note: 05/2015 Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D Zell/Wiesental Telefon / Telefax / info@zellaerosol.de Internet: Please note: Issue 10/ /2015 Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das Herstellen,Publishing Füllen und Verschließen von date: Standardsachets Zeitschriftensachets Advertising deadline: Onpacksachets Konturensachets GANZ EINFACH: Tüchlein Please do not LEISTUNG hesitate to contact us if you Lohn-Pack have any havek.a.wolf any further further questions GmbH & questions: Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, Florstadt dorothea.michaelis@ Call: Dorothea Tel / 82 28Michaelis - 27, Fax / Mail:(0)721 kontakt@lohn-pack.com health-and-beauty.com HERSTELLEN von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen. ABFÜLLEN Please note: in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, 05/2015 Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. Publishing date: KONFEKTIONIEREN kosmetischen, von pharmazeutischen, chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und Genußmitteln. Advertising deadline: GANZ EINFACH: LEISTUNG HERSTELLEN von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen. ABFÜLLEN in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, COSSMA I I und 61 COSSMA 79-8Nahrungs77 chemischen Produkten, Genußmitteln. DOKUMENTIEREN GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit Mikrobiologie :58

62 Essential Oils Wolkenstein -und OT ChargenrückHilmersdorf Produktkennzeichnung Fon: +49 (0) verfolgung +49 (0) oder Fax: Full-Service vom Einkauf der Materialien über rung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB Cellophanierung COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :01 Seite 78 11:01 Seite 78 Qualitätssicherung mit lückenloser Dokumen :01 Seite 78 COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB tation des gesamten Produktionsprozesses. Falkenhorster GmbH CosmeticVerpackungen Ingredients Äußerer Hofring Wolkenstein - OT Hilmersdorf Fon: +49 (0) SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES Fax: +49 (0) oder SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES info@falkenhorster-verpackungen.de SUPPLIERS GUIDE SERVICES Contract Manufacturing Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. + Cosmetics Pharmac. +Ingredients Cosmetics Cosmetic Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. + Cosmetics Wir packen alles ein - schnell und zuverlässig Wir packen alles ein - schnell und zuverlässig Konfektionierung, Lohnverpackung und packen alles ein Lohnverpackung -von schnell undund zuverlässig WirKonfektionierung, und Kommissionierung Waren Artikeln Kommissionierung von Waren und Artikeln in Klein- und Großauflagen in Konfektionierung, Lohnverpackung und Klein- undvon Großauflagen mehrteiligen Sets, Verkaufs Verpacken von WarenSets, undverkaufsartikeln Verpacken vonaufstellern mehrteiligen Kommissionierung displays und Polyurethanes, film forming polymers Klein- und displays undgroßauflagen Aufstellern in Produktkennzeichnung und sensoryvon additives forchargenrückyour Verpacken mehrteiligen Sets, Verkaufs and Produktkennzeichnung und Chargenrückverfolgung displays formulations und Aufstellern cosmetic verfolgung Produktkennzeichnung Full-Service und Chargenrück cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com Full-Service vom Einkauf der Materialien über Lageverfolgung vom Materialien über Lagerung Einkauf bis zumder Versand Ihrer Produkte Full-Service rung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte Cellophanierung vom Einkauf der Materialien über Lage Cellophanierung rung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte Qualitätssicherung mit lückenloser Dokumen tation Cellophanierung Qualitätssicherung lückenloser Dokumendes gesamtenmit Produktionsprozesses. tation des gesamten Produktionsprozesses. Qualitätssicherung mit lückenloser DokumenFalkenhorster GmbH tation des gesamtenverpackungen Produktionsprozesses. Falkenhorster Verpackungen GmbH Äußerer Hofring 6 polymers Polyurethanes, film forming Äußerer Hofring Wolkenstein OT Hilmersdorf and sensory additives forhilmersdorf yourgmbh Falkenhorster Verpackungen Wolkenstein - OT Fon: +49 (0) cosmetic Äußerer Hofring 6 14 Fon: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0)formulations oder Wolkenstein OT Hilmersdorf Fax: +49 (0) oder cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com Fon: +49 (0) info@falkenhorster-verpackungen.de Fax: +49 (0) oder info@falkenhorster-verpackungen.de info@falkenhorster-verpackungen.de Cosmetic Spatulas Cosmetic Cosmetic Ingredients Ingredients Cosmetic Ingredients go Meding GmbH Kruppstraße 8 D Halver Tel.: +49 (0) / Fax:Cosmetic +49 (0) Spatulas / info@meding.com COSSMA 7-8 I 2015 go Meding GmbH Kruppstraße 8 D Halver Tel.: +49 (0) / Polyurethanes, film forming polymers Fax: +49 (0) / Polyurethanes, film forming polymers and sensory additives for your info@meding.com Polyurethanes, film forming polymers and sensory additives for your Tel.: 0800/ (gebührenfrei) Spendenkonto: BLZ: , GLS-Bank Filling Lines Zellaeros Wiesens D Telefon Telefax Internet: APPLICATORS Localized application of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for Glitter Effects Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Aerosol Mixing Balls H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Wir habe Herstelle SiLiglit Bremen, Bremen,Postfach Postfach Tel. (04 (0421) (0421) 21) , , Fax (04 21) Alsheimer Straße 1 Glitter Effects Alsheimer Straße 1- Germany 67586Glitter Hillesheim Effects Hillesheim - Germany Tel.: +49 (0)Straße Alsheimer Tel.: +49 (0) Hillesheim - Germany Tel.: +49 (0) Bauerstraße 22 D München Tel. +49 (0) H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) SiLiglitaerosol sprays SiLiglit S I G M U N D L I N DSNI G EM R UGNmDb L HI N D N E R G m b H Phone (++49) Phone Fax(++49) (++49) Fax(++49) E - M a i l : s i l s i g m u n d - l i nsili@sigmund-lindner.com d n e r. c o m Danke Filling Danke Filling Lines Lines Danke für alles! alles! für für alles! Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen Mess- und Testgeräte Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie - Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Maschinen für Aerosole undfarben/lacke Sprühsysteme- Polyurethanschäume Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon T +41(0) , F +41(0) info@pamasol.com, Füllund Verschliessmaschinen Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon T +41(0) , F +41(0) info@pamasol.com, Tel.: 0800/ (gebührenfrei) Tel.: 0800/ (gebührenfrei) Spendenkonto: Spendenkonto: BLZ: , GLS-Bank Tel.: (gebührenfrei) BLZ:0800/ ,300 GLS-Bank Spendenkonto: BLZ: , GLS-Bank Your Hans-Duncker-Straße Hamburg Lip Balm Full Service advertisement Your Tel / Fax 0 40 / Aloe Vera Advertising Fo Fo ConsultantsSUPPLIERS GUIDE C.E. R Hotline +49 Gl G Ar Ar S advertisement office@roeper.de. could be right advertisement could be right could be right SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) Fax (++49) E - M as i li:g M s iu l in@ds ilgim l i ngdmnbehr. c o m Nu DnNdE-R Phone (++49) FaxOEPER (++49) E - M a i l : s i l s i g m u n d - l i n d n13 e r c o mhamburg Tel / Fax 0 40 / Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) office@roeper.de. Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Sworn Experts (0) Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Developing new compositions Mixing + Homogenizing R D D S Te T In In E E Samples/small batches Toxicological safety reports Product Documentations Marketability/Export Reports Quality assessments SEUFERT SVB Dr. Lautenbacher GmbH TRANSPARENTE Tel: VERPACKUNGEN Mixing + Homogenizing info@svb-lautenbacher.de H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Labels Aluminium Seal Closures Advertising +49 Hotline Glitter Effects Glitter Effects Glitter Effects (0) SiLiglit SiLiglit SiLiglit H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Postfach Tel.Erhard (04Bremen, 21) 6Wagner , Fax ( ) H. GmbH Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) Bremen, Postfach 01 symex GmbH 77 & Co. KG Lengstr Bremerhaven Tel. (04 21) ,10, Fax (04 21) Fon: +49 (0) Filling Contract A STEP AHEAD Fax: +49 (0) Carmine Con COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :01 Seite C.E. ROEPER Your Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme baycusan baycusan baycusan baycusan COSSMA 7-8 I 2015 Lohnab glass balls for and sensory additives for your cosmetic formulations Polyurethanes, film forming polymers and sensory additives for your cosmetic formulations and sensory additives for your cosmetic formulations cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com cosmetic formulations cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 21) , Fax (04 21) Lip Balm Balm Full Full Service SiLibeads Lip Service Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen Mess- und Testgeräte 78 advertisement Labels could be right Engelstraße 37, Münster Engelstraße 37, Münster Engelstraße 37, Münster Tel.: 0800/ (gebührenfrei) Spendenkonto: BLZ: , GLS-Bank Straßfeld Straßfeld Tel. Tel Fax Fax info@ros info@ros Your Lanae) Labels Lanolin (Adeps Applicators Lanolin Labels (Adeps Lanae) Adeps Lanae Danke für alles! Essential Oils Essential Oils Essential Oils Essential Oils Your advertisement could be right Alsheimer Straße Hillesheim - Germany Tel.: +49 (0) Clinical Tests Clinical Tests + Dermatological Clinical Tests COS _BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB :00 Seite 77 Danke fürdermatological alles! ++ Dermatological baycusan baycusan Cosmetic Ingredients Lip Balm Full Service Lip Balm Full Service A STEP AHEAD Lip Balm Full symex GmbHService & Co. KG PACKED TRAN WITH SEUF VERP INSPIRAT PA WIT INS Lengstr. 10, Bremerhaven MS E 43x80.indd Cosmetic Spatulas Cosmetic Spatulas Cosmetic Spatulas go Meding GmbH go Kruppstraße Meding GmbH 8 D Halver Kruppstraße 8 53 D Tel.: +49 (0) 23 / 91 58Halver -0 go Meding GmbH Tel.: Fax: (0) (0) // Kruppstraße 8 D Halver Fax: +49 (0) / info@meding.com Tel.: +49 (0) / info@meding.com Fax: +49 (0) / info@meding.com 16:18 Filling Lines Filling Lines Filling Lines Maschinen für Aerosole Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme und Sprühsysteme Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen FüllPrüf-und undverschliessmaschinen Sicherheitseinrichtungen Prüfund Sicherheitseinrichtungen Sortier-, und Aufsetzmaschinen FüllundZuführVerschliessmaschinen Sortier-, Zuführund Aufsetzmaschinen Mess-und undsicherheitseinrichtungen Testgeräte Prüf Mess- und Testgeräte Sortier-, Zuführund Aufsetzmaschinen Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Kosmetik -Testgeräte Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik Mess-und Nahrungsmittelindustrie - Technik Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon Pamasol Willi , Mäder AG, CH Pfäffikon Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume T +41(0)55 F +41(0)55 T +41(0) , F +41(0) info@pamasol.com, Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon info@pamasol.com, T +41(0) , F +41(0) info@pamasol.com, SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone S (++49) I G M9277 U N D99410 L I N DFax N E(++49) R G m9277 b H E - M a(++49) i l : s 9277 i l s99410 i g m ufax n d(++49) - l i n d9277 n e r com Phone E - M as i li:g M s iul in@ Ds ilgim Nu DnNdE-Rl i ngdmnbehr. c o m Phone (++49) Fax (++49) E - M a i l : s i l s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m Fon: +49 (0) Advertising Hotline Fax: +49 (0) (0) Sterilizati Produkte Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Your Alu-Folien Advertising Packaging Advertising für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter advertisement in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage Advertising Hotline in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck Hotline could be right Qualität seit 1957 Hotline +49 (0) , Fahrenzhausen DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. Straßfeld KG +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) here Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung Fax +49 (0) Bad Berleburg +49 (0) Tel.: /20 27, Fax: /20 25 info@rosa-heinz.de, A BGS Ihr Spezialist für Strahl hesi have WIEHL BRUCHSAL S B GS Beta-Gamma-Service G D Phon info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) COSSMA 97I COSSMA - 8 I COSSMA 7-8 I COSSMA 7-8 I 2015 COS1509_Services.indd 62 ste Wir machen IhrePlea Vegetable :58

63 444-14_EA_COS_e-paper_1-2h_GB :29 Seite 1 steril! Wir machen Ihre Produkte 00 Seite 77 Packaging COSSMA! On-line and right up to date BGS BGS Ihr Ihr Spezialist Spezialist für für Strahlensterilisation. Strahlensterilisation. t t SUPPLIERS GUIDE for Vegetable Oils ) D München ce ce von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen. in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. DOKUMENTIEREN Auch Auch Kleinstmengen! Kleinstmengen! nsultantssuppliers GUIDE Experts R.GERSCHON GMBH. D D Königstein Königstein im im Taunus Taunus SERVICES. Tel. Tel / /7017. Fax Fax 06174/ /1312 Internet: Internet: info@gerschon.de info@gerschon.de Siebdruck ab 300 Stück g new compositions zing mall batches cal safety reports ocumentations ity/export Reports sessments SEUFERT utenbacher GmbH TRANSPARENTE VERPACKUNGEN GMBH zing lautenbacher.de (value 156 Euros) Chinese Cosmetic Review was founded in 1992 and is GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Doku Danke fürlabor alles! mentation. Modernes mit supported by the China Federation of Commerce. China Cosmetic Review is the only official publication in China targeted at the Chinese cosmetics and toiletries industry. Mikrobiologie Glas Dosierspender, Glas (Sprühköpfe, (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, + Packaging Aromaflaschen, Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, Parfümflaschen, Sprühflaschen Sprühflaschen ohne ohne Treibgas) Treibgas) Fordern Fordern Sie Sie unsere unsere Unterlagen Unterlagen an an Together with our Chinese Partner China Cosmetic Review, the first Chinese edition has been published in May COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und Genußmitteln. Dosen Flaschen Contract :01 Seite 79 u. Dosen u.manufacturing Flaschen in in Plastik Plastik u. u Hamburg Fax 0 40 / r.de. 4 KONFEKTIONIEREN Verpackung für Kosmetik Selbstabfüller Carmine COSSMA! Free e-paper Find new business partners in China with the Chinese Edition of COSSMA! ABFÜLLEN Lohn-Pack K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Dorfwiesenstraße, Florstadt Tel / , Fax / Mail: kontakt@lohn-pack.com For further information on topics, print run & circulation and advertising rates, check 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany) WAGENER & CO 5 Trends Statements Innovation SERVICES 3 HERSTELLEN Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von Standardsachets Zeitschriftensachets Onpacksachets Konturensachets Tüchlein COSSMA! Search and download from our archives LEISTUNG Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D Zell/Wiesental Telefon / Telefax / info@zellaerosol.de Internet: on of cosmetic and roducts Chinese Edition GANZ EINFACH: Lohnabfüllung SUPPLIERS GUIDE 2 Safety Assessments Packaging ICATORS SERVICES W W II E EH H LL B BR RU UC CH HS SA A LL S SA AA A LL (( D DO ON NA AU U )) B B GS GS Beta-Gamma-Service Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH GmbH & & Co. Co. KG KG info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) Straßfeld Straßfeld 6, 6, Fahrenzhausen Fahrenzhausen Tel. Tel (0)8133 (0) Fax +49 (0) Fax +49 (0) info@rosa-heinz.de, info@rosa-heinz.de, ae) pplicators ae) R7_08_GB 1 Sterilization GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG seit 1964 Wool wax wax Wagener Wool & Co GmbH Sterilization Postfach Lengerich TelefonWagner / GmbH H. H. Erhard Erhard GmbH Wagner kontakt@wagener-co.de Bremen, Postfach Internet: Bremen, Postfach Tel. (04 6 machen IhreFax Tel.Wir (04 21) 21) , 60-0, Fax (04 (04 21) 21) Produkte good reasons for reading Order today, at via the hotline: +49 (0) ! steril! Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. Cosmetics BGS Ihr Spezialist für+strahlensterilisation. Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str Karlsruhe Germany leserservice@health-and-beauty.com Tel: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) Trends Statements Innovation PACKED AD TRANSPARENTE WITH SEUFERT VERPACKUNGEN GMBH INSPIRATION. PACKED tract Filling Vegetable Oils WITH INSPIRATION. Discover today your WI E H L B R UCHSAL SAAL (DONAU) B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) KG emerhaven AD KG emerhaven ne 44 en einz.de competitors plans for tomorrow 1 Sterilization steril! Wir machen IhrePlease note: Issue 10/2015 Produkte Publishing date: COSSMA! On-line and right up to date Advertising deadline: BGS Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation. WIEHL Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions: B R UCHSAL SAAL (DONAU) B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG Dorothea Michaelis info@bgs.eu + 49 (0) Phone: +49 (0) Vegetable Oils COS1509_Services.indd 63 Wool wax 2 H. Erhard Wagner GmbH Bremen, Postfach Tel. (0421) , Fax (0421) COSSMA! Search and download from our archives COSSMA 7-8 I Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com COSSMA 9 I Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) COSSMA! Free e-paper :58

64 SERVICES B2B-EXCHANGE B2B Exchange: Find your business partners of tomorrow today! COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new business contacts. All our business partners can use this International B2B Exchange. Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see ( =NEW!) for more information about suppliers and their products Wish to export their products abalico Weinheim, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel info@abalico.de Products: Cosmetic products for hand and nail wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB Akzent direct GmbH Gelnhausen, Germany Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt info@akzent-direct.com Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East, P, E, I Beauty Line Consulting Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena info@belico.de Products: skin and body care products, private label, bulk wish to export to: worldwide beauty lumis GmbH München, Germany Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer a.frommer@beautylumis.com Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and cosmetic products wish to export to: worldwide DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH Braunschweig, Germany Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach COSMETIC@BELTER.de Products: skin and body care cosmetics wish to export to: worldwide Dr. GRANDEL GmbH PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic Augsburg, Germany Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler juergen.geisler@grandel.de Products: Skin care products, wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America GERTRAUD GRUBER KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Contact: Mr. Roland Schäfer rschaefer@gruber-kosmetik.de Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Natur basis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. wish to export to: worldwide Guderma GmbH Bergkamen, Germany Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf guderma@web.de Products: Skin Care Products for dry and very dry skin wish to export to: worldwide Heitland & Petre International GmbH (ROSA GRAF) Celle, Germany Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider saskia.schneider@heitland.com Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments wish to export to: worldwide House of Melchiorsen Naestved, Denmark Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn langhorn@houseofmelchiorsen.com Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal teas made of biodynamic herbs from owned herbs-garden. wwish to export to: worldwide Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Ms. Renate Karner r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de Products: Skin and Body Care Cosmetics, Ampoules, Decorative cosmetics wish to export to: EU + worldwide IONTO-COMED GmbH Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Export export@ionto.de Products: cosmetic and footcare technology wish to export to: worldwide Klapp Cosmetics GmbH Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte f.duarte@klapp-cosmetics.com Products: Cosmetic products, SPA collection series wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia NEOVITA COSMETICS Mauer, Germany Contact: Ms. Rose Crescentini is-sales@neovita.de Products: Premium Skin Care products for professionals wish to export to: worldwide Dr. med Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG Essen, Germany Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz b.schmitz@schrammek.de Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA TANA Cosmetics Bielefeld, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co. KG Mr. Ronald Fortmann info@tana-cosmetics.com Products: Colour cosmetics, Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: E, F, DK, S 64 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

65 Masthead Page Advertisers Index The Team Managing Director Jürgen Volpp Senior Editor Angelika Meiss Sales Manager Dorothea Michaelis Advertising Support Beate Bantzhaff Volume 16 ISSN Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Assistant: Phone: Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box , Ettlingen, Germany Phone: , Fax: Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: Advertising Sales Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff Phone: , Fax: The current list of advertising rates is dated 1 st of Jan Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Service kundenservice@health-and-beauty.com Phone: , Fax: Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly Parfümerie und Kosmetik and Aerosol and Spray Report Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: E 192; outside Germany: E 198. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ ms-simply.media Production Monika Stern Printing Kraft Druck GmbH Industriestr. 5 9, Ettlingen, Germany International Representatives Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary Phone: , Fax: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu Italy Zero Venti Loris Sparti Via Valprato, Torino, Italy Phone: loris@zeroventi.com Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/ Warsaw, Poland Phone: , Fax: malgorzata.szulc@health-and-beauty.com.pl USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc. Detlef Fox 19 th Floor 5 Penn Plaza New York, NY 10001, USA Phone: Fax: detleffox@comcast.net Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Ettlingen 2015 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Never theless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. Air Products & Chemicals, Inc. p. 41 BB med. product GmbH p. 20 Brookfield Engineering p. 33 Clariant International Ltd p. 7 CLR Chemisches Laboratorium p. 68 Cosmetic Valley p. 45 Dermatest GmbH p. 35 Greentech GmbH p. 11 Idice France p. 56, 57 IMPAG Import GmbH p. 17 KHK GmbH p. 54 Kosmetik Konzept GmbH p. 54 Lipotec S.A. p. 2 LOUVRETTE GmbH p. 23 M & H Plastics p. 53 Merck KG aa p. 13 Naturkosmetik Konzepte p. 8 NCD Ingredients GmbH p. 19 Neopac the Tube (Hoffmann Neopac AG) p. 37 Nürnberg Messe GmbH p. 9 OPTIMA consumer GmbH p. 5 PDA-HaB Media & Tradefairs Private Ltd p. 58 Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH Loose Insert RATIONATOR Maschinenbau GmbH p. 53 Sabinsa Europe GmbH p. 31 Seppic S.A. p. 42

66 SERVICES Trend statement Impact of new delivery systems Claudia Täffler, Head of R&D, Straub Cosmetics One of the most exciting scientific findings for tomorrow s facial care is the development of a new generation of delivery systems, whose technology is derived from pharmacology, providing the opportunity of creating a new generation of highly effective cosmetic products. The innovation here is a control peptide, which helps substances to be transported directly into specific cells. The advantages are clear: in addition to stabilizing the ingredients and releasing them in the cell, an increase in effectiveness can be achieved. The ingredient is continuously released in the targeted cell, thus minimizing non-specific cell reactions and undesirable side effects. The challenge we face in the development of our new Marbert whitening series for the Asian market is to achieve quickly visible skin brightening, while optimizing the skin compatibility of these substances. Thanks to the new delivery system technology, the amount of the ingredients needed can be decreased considerably, as it just infiltrates the melanocytes. This increases effectiveness while improving skin compatibility. This exciting new substance for facial care is a link between tradition and new technology. When the safety and efficacy of a traditional, well-researched ingredient such as Vitamin C is enhanced and stabilized, making its usage more versatile, a traditional ingredient like this can be an inspiring all-rounder, reducing wrinkles, strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction, stimulating collagen synthesis,, protecting skin from UVB-induced skin damage and inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It thus unites elementary requirements for modern, high-performance facial care and deserves a renaissance. The continuous emergence of new substances based on sustainable stem cell technology that protect dermal stem cells from UV damage or stimulate a long-lasting anti-ageing effect, such as cell cultures of a macro seaweed or stem cell alpine plant keeps us permanently intrigued. A new delivery system reduces the amount of active ingredients needed while increasing effectiveness and skin compatibility photo: Marbert PREVIEW Product development Stefan Schmied, Make-up Artist of Max Factor, explains the most fascinating developments in colour cosmetics Plus: +++ What makes colour cosmetics such a flourishing facet of the beauty market? +++ Functionals more versatile than ever +++ LuxePack preview: Curtain up for an exclusive selection of highlights +++ A niche brand with an exciting story to tell +++ COSSMA 10/2015 is published on October 6 th, 2015 October 2015 New colour trends inspired by today s ever-evolving lifestyles Focus: Make-up + styling photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com 66 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

67 Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites: Find tomorrow s suppliers today! Hersteller von hochwertigen kosmetischen Verpackungen info@bottlemate.de PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY You can find further information of these suppliers@ as well as on their homepages (see Url below the logos). Your logo can be listed here for just 60, per month for further information, please contact Dorothea Michaelis dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com phone +49 (0)

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