Contents. 14 What makes. 40 What to. NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles

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1 26 Powerful solutions for current customer demands 48 Noteworthy solutions in colour cosmetics Contents 14 What makes the first peptide used in cosmetic application special? 40 What to expect from this year s IFSCC in Zurich 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Facial care 10 Interview with Mathias Gempeler, DSM: Mapping the future of skin care 14 Interview with Olga Gracioso, Sederma: First peptide for cosmetics 16 Marc Eeman et al., Dow Corning Shanghai: Silicone film formers An answer to skin care trends 20 Interview with Tony Jaillot, BASF: Global trends in a nutshell 22 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches Marketing 24 Stephane Le Moullec, Butterfly: Beauty in the Middle East Trends affecting brand development 26 Impag Ingredients serving today s consumer needs st DGK symposium in Darmstadt Sun protection and more 33 Star of the Month: Expert tool for more precise application PRODUCTION 34 Dr Stefan Müller, Cosmetic Consulting: Replacing comparable ingredients Mastering the challenges 36 Ulrike Marx, NCD, et al.: Natural and silicone-free hair conditioning A green approach 38 Interview with Laurent Chaisemartin, Greentech: A look behind the scenes The story of hydrosoluble PEG-free oils 40 IFSCC 2015 in Zurich More facts, fewer illusions 42 New Ingredients 46 Cosmetic Business 2015 What was new? 48 MakeUp in Paris 2015 Fascinating facets of colour cosmetics 50 Packaging News 52 Latest developments Tubes you can smell SERVICES 6 Download List Formulations: Body Care Events News 59 Events Diary 60 Suppliers Guide 64 International B2B Exchange 65 Advertisers Index 65 Masthead Page 66 Preview 66 Trend statement by Claudia Täffler, Straub Cosmetics Leading articles Front cover picture: Bochkarev Photography, Shutterstock.com

2 Riccardo Favara Bachelor of Engineering (Sales Manager) For us at Optima Consumer, it is only natural that the responsible salesperson will make a precise picture of the status of a project. Not just from their desk, but directly at the machine. After all, we want you to be in the picture at all times. Because trust isn t everything. It s the only thing. FACHPACK, Nuremberg 09/29/15-10/01/15 Halle 2 Booth 213 OPTIMA consumer GmbH Geschwister-Scholl-Straße Schwaebisch Hall Germany Telefon info@optima-consumer.com Member of

3 SERVICES DOWNLOAD Free Downloads for Subsribers Click through our Web TV clips: informs about the most important trends impacting on the cosmetics industry. photo:konstantin Yuganov, Shutterstock.com COSSMA Download-Tipp in September Surfactants for new ecological formulation concepts Clariant s new GlucoTain range of sugar-based surfactants offers good performance as well as additional sensory benefits. Thus, it helps formulators develop innova-tive products and platforms based on sulfate-free, CAPB-free and EO-free formulations for a wide range of applications. COSSMA subscribers can download further background information. Sugar-based multifunctional surfactants with additional sensory benefits... talks about what effect cosmetics products can have on dermal stem cells.... explains how he and his team developed the award-winning active ingredient Matrixyl. Top-Downloads for September Market Data: GFK Survey Satisfaction with your looks Ingredient Information: Emulgade (BASF) Video: In-Cosmetics Launches 2015 Formulation: FrizzFight Cream (Bayer/Covestro) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotolia.de talks about what gave him as a packaging designer the idea to put live back into this brand. Downloads Additional information at or you just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at 14 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

4 Discover GlucoPure SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure : innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners. GlucoPure is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a Renewable Carbon Index of up to 95%. VISIT US AT SEPAWA 2015 FULDA/GERMANY OCTOBER 14 16, BOOTH

5 SERVICES FORMULATIONS In our October issue we will be focussing on formulations for antiageing products. In November it will be the turn of sprays and foams. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled. However, neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. Body care There is a wide variety of body care products, and the choice of formulations we are offering here for your inspiration mirrors exactly this diversity. We have selected more than 30 different formulations ranging from the everyday body lotion and shower gel to deodorants. Of course, the full version of each formulation is available, too. You can take a closer look at them or download them free of charge from our homepage at AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC Contact: Stenungsund, Sweden Phone: +46 (0) Fax: +46 (0) personalcare.europe@akzonobel.com Profile: Our scientific approach to innovation, expertise and best-in-class technologies is the backbone of our ingredient development, which aims to deliver the essential functionalities you need to create the finest personal care products. Formulas: Cationic Skin Moisturizing Lotion Extra Mild Clear Shower Gel Revitalizing Hydration In-Shower Lotion Rich, Creamy and Smooth Liquid Soap Silky Smooth Antiperspirant Stick Caring Shower Gel A. Brasca Ready-to-use Oil Gel Bases Alfa Chemicals Cost Effective Body Wash Azelis Sprayable Body Lotion BASF Feel Good Deo Balm Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Floratech presents an interesting alternative to the everyday body lotion with its Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque. Another unusual idea is Croda s Crystal Clear SOS Nourishing Stick, the Ready-touse Oil Gel Bases by Alfa Chemicals, BASF s Sprayable Body Lotion, or the Body Oil against Dry Skin by GfN Selco. Morrocoan Shine Brenntag Foamy Fun 2 Phase Facial Cleanser C.H. Erbslöh Body Care Test Formulations with Glucotain Clariant Repair & Care Après Body Cream (O/W) CLR Crystal Clear SOS Nourishing Stick Croda Natural First Aid Body Lotion Dr. Straetmans Asian Beauty Secrets W/Si Illuminating Cream Eckart Effect Pigments Cationic Hand Cream Evonik Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque Floratech * Access codes for downloading the formulations can be found on the internet panel on this page Body Oil against Dry Skin GfN Selco Shower Bubble Greentech Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Crystal Leave-On Conditioner HallStar LexFeel 350 Citrus Scrubble Inolex Wax Treatment Dip for Hands and Nails Lipo Chemicals Vantage Specialties Light Sun Cream SPF 15 Lubrizol Ultra-Reshaping Body Gel Cream Lucas Meyer Hazelnut Massage Butter Naturochim Whitening Body Lotion Principium Soft for Longer Deodorant Sederma Elves Light Body Lotion Sisterna 54 l COSSMA 0 I 2015

6 5good reasons for reading! Trends Statements Innovation Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow 1 2 COSSMA! On-line and right up to date COSSMA! Search and download from our archives 3 4 COSSMA! free E-paper COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads (value 156 Euros) Super gift for new subscribers: 50 EUR amazon voucher 5 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany) Order today, at or via the hotline: +49 (0) Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany, Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com HRB Mannheim USt-ID-Nr. DE General Manager: Jürgen Volpp

7 EVENTS SERVICES Platform for controversial topics A large variety of additional benefits Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference 2015 The upcoming Natural and Organic Cosmetics Conference is being held on October at the Hotel Ellington Berlin in Germany. A currently hotly debated topic within the cosmetics industry is the expected ISO-Guidelines. After all, the new guidelines for organic cosmetics could water down the existing standards considerably. The market needs answers, how to differentiate in the future between organic cosmetics and those with new claims that are based on the ISO-Guidelines, says Conference Chairwoman Elfriede Dambacher*. The discussion with experts at this year s conference, as well as the statements BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH It goes without saying that this year s 30 th anniversary of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, celebrated with a large variety of add-ons, is an absolute must. Please, note that this year s show at the International Trade Fair in Munich takes place one week earlier than in previous years. So make sure that you pencil in October 17 and 18. This birthday edition featuring a total of about 880 exhibiting companies and brands, as well as the two new sciencebased conferences on foot care and anti-ageing among others really is something to look forward to. International visitors will receive access free of charge. With the help of this free registration service, you can personally invite your own international contacts: More information about the show at The discussion with experts on controversial topics should prove fascinating photo: Rawpixel, Shutterstock.com At the show you do not only meet all the relevant beauty professionals but grasp what the latest innovations are all about provided by the relevant certifying organizations, should prove to be fascinating. The multi-faceted program for the conference will attract international participants from the industry and retail, therefore offering ample opportunities for in-depth and international networking. On the day prior to the Conference, the Trendtour Berlin will take participants to newly discovered hotspots of natural cosmetics in the city of Berlin (2 6 p.m.) * Elfriede Dambacher, conference chairwoman, managing director of the publishing company Naturkosmetik Verlag and expert for organic cosmetics is hosting the conference in cooperation with NürnbergMesse, organizer of Vivaness, the trade fair for natural cosmetics. Get connected - now photo: Rawpixel, Shutterstock.com After having pre-arranged meetings with your potential future business partners, you can meet them in person at this year s BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH BEAUTY FORUM connect Have you registered yet with the B2B online matchmaking tool BEAUTY FORUM connect to participate at the 2 nd edition of this live matchmaking event? This B2B Sales Matching tool, which is supplied exclusively by this year s 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH from October 17-18, will help make your visit to the show the most successful matchmaking event ever. The online platform lists the exhibitors of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH. Once you have registered (for free if you are an exhibitor) you can access all information on the international cosmetics suppliers and distributors from around the globe, who are seeking to collaborate and expand their businesses. There are currently almost 350 company profiles listed. The database will be very helpful when identifying potential business partners that meet your desired requirements. You will then be able to organize oneto-one 30-minute pre-scheduled meetings during this year s international trade fair BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015 on October COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 55

8 BEAUTY FORUM connect B2B-Sales-Matching 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 17 th, 18 th October 2015 Europes No. 1 autumn cosmetics trade fair LOOKING FOR A PARTNER In 2015 for the second time the b2b matching and networking tool BEAUTY FORUM connect will be established to support you finding a business partner. BEAUTY FORUM connect is your platform for effec tive b2b networking & matchmaking. BEAUTY FORUM connect free of charge for exhibitors of 30 th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH THE BIG PLUS Find a business partner fast and efficient Get informed of potential businesses online Easy and effective matching of trade partners Establish business relationship time- and cost-effective FREE-OF-COSTS ENTRY FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS! FOR MORE INFORMATION SCAN QR CODE! Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str Ettlingen, Germany Tel: messe@health-and-beauty.com

9 E C O S M E TICS SPR AY TECHNOLO GY M ARK E TING Ingredients Close-up: First peptide used for cosmetic application Markets Middle East: Trends affecting brand development Marketing Hair conditioning: Natural and silicone-free Production The challenge of replacing comparable ingredients VIP of the Month Mathias Gempeler from DSM about the future of facial care Focus: Facial care 9 /