Ingredients serving today s consumer needs

Transcription

1 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Which ingredients provide powerful solutions for current consumer demands? Representatives from Impag, Cobiosa, DuPont, Soliance/ Givaudan, IBR, BASF, and Alfa- Cos provide some compelling insights into current cosmetics trends and provide information on ingredients with convincing performance. Ingredients serving today s consumer needs Products that enhance skin perfection are highly rated photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com What are currently the most important trends in the field of cosmetics? Dr. Vera Maienschein, Managing Director, Impag, Germany: The desire of consumers to not only digitally enhance their photos but also to have perfect, high definition-ready skin in real life is driving the development of new cosmetics products. In order to obtain perfect skin active, ingredients are required that hide skin irregularities and that lastingly reduce skin reddening, impurities, large pores and wrinkles. What is also very fashionable at the moment are highly effective substances that can be used in dermocosmetics or medical skin care. These include products that treat, e.g. scars and stretch marks. There is a strong de- mand for cosmetic products with a high sun protection factor. Yet, at the same time, the contents of these products should be as natural as possible. As a result, the search is on for natural raw materials that are capable of boosting the sun protection factor so that the concentration of classical UV filters can be reduced. Suitability for sensitive skin is still one of the most important advertising claims. Active ingredients that combat neuroinflammation of the skin prove highly effective at reducing skin sensitivity. Shower gels and refreshing creams that offer both a quickly perceptible and a long-lasting freshening effect are in strong demand. This is achieved by specially designed active ingredients that interact directly with certain receptors in the skin. Odour also plays a very important role in skin and hair care. Odour-controlling actives can be used to improve the aroma of a formula as well as to control unpleasant body odours. The desire of many consumers is to maintain the youthful appearance of their skin. One of the triggers of skin ageing, besides UV light, is smoking. There is an anti-ageing active ingredient tested successfully on the skin of heavy smokers which is highly effective at combatting the visible effects of ageing processes. The trend towards raw materials compliant with the requirement of natural cosmetics also comprises high performance thickeners. Systems with a high oil content can thicken formulations. The thus created oil gels form microemulsions when they come into contact with water, and create a light and silky skin feel. 26 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

2 INGREDIENTS MARKETING If you look at the worldwide cosmetic regulation, are there any noticeable problems? Dr. Reto Hess, COO, Impag, Switzerland: I think the biggest problem especially for international players is the fact that there are no general cosmetic regulations that are valid all over the world. However, at least governments all over the world try to harmonise the law a little bit. Of course this trend has been influenced by other regulations like GHS (Globally Harmonised System). What are the main characteristics of this harmonisation? For markets such as Mercosur (Mercado Comun del Sur), SICA (Sistema de la IntegracionCentroamericana) and ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) comprising 25 countries and more than 1 billion people, the European cosmetic legislation is somehow fundamental. However, in the process of each country converting these principles into federal state law, differences creep in which create a disharmony among the different cosmetic legislations. Thus, international players have taken local regulations into consideration in spite of the trend for harmonisation. What are the latest findings in the field of skin regeneration for scars and stretch marks? Alberto Thiebaut, General Manager, Cobiosa, Spain: Marks and scars are impossible to eliminate with cosmetic treatments, but they can help to improve their appearance. In this context, key ingredients are those able to boost the skin s own regeneration mechanisms within their different and complex phases. In this field, there is also a clear trend towards natural products, with already known and demonstrated regenerative properties, whose ancestral use transmits confidence to users. What ingredients can support skin re-generation for scars and stretch marks? Poly Helixan, obtained from the secretion of the Helix Aspersa (Müller), and Dragon s Blood, extracted from the latex of the tree Croton lechleri. Odour-controlling actives can improve unpleasant body odours Both actives are of natural and sustainable origin. photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com How do they work? The process of regeneration of skin damaged either by injury or by a stretch mark formation comprises several complex stages with common features, such as collagen and elastin fibre breakage accompanied by an inflammatory process which involves oxidative stress. The synthesis of new elastic fibres (collagen and elastin) and the migration of new fibroblasts toward the surface and the decrease of the inflammatory process (among others) are part of the wound-healing process. Poly Helixan, thanks to its containing Allantoin, proteins, vitamins A, C and E, collagen and elastin, alpha-hydroxy acids and other active ingredients, stimulates collagen synthesis and skin renewal. It improves skin elasticity and restores the cutaneous architecture. On the other hand, Dragon s Blood is a source of powerful polyphenolic bio-flavonoids (proanthocyanidins) which, together with taspine, lignans, unsaturated fatty acids and pigments, restores damaged collagen, stimulates the formation of new material. It is part of the traditional Peruvian (Inca) medicine. Taspine and proanthocyanidins promote healing by affecting the inflammatory phase, stimulating the proliferation and migration of fibroblast which results in epithelial regeneration. Overproduction of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS & NOS) results in oxidative stress causing cytotoxicity and delayed wound healing. Both actives have a high capacity to sequestrate these radicals. Antioxidants accelerate the process of wound healing by destroying the free radicals. What studies have proven their effect? In addition to many studies made with these two actives, most of which are published both in cosmetic and medical journals, we have performed clinical tests to show their efficacy at wound healing action and improvement of the appearance of scars. The results are quite promising and encouraging. An anti-ageing active ingredient tested successfully on the skin of heavy smokers is highly effective at combatting the visible effects of ageing processes photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 27

3 MARKETING INGREDIENTS Refreshing creams providing long-lasting freshness contain specially designed active ingredients that interact directly with certain receptors in the skin photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com long period of time with additional benefits for the skin or they act as a trigger. These coolants deliver a gentle, long-lasting cooling sensation which reduces the risk of irritation caused by menthol. And what is your offer in the field of odour control agents? We provide a citronellol derivative Sinodor which neutralizes all kinds of bad odours which can be external odours such as cigarette smoke, kitchen odours, permanent smell, and chlorine smell, and it is also effective against body odours, thus making it ideal for deodorants or foot care products, for example. It is also able to reduce the odour of a base formula, in particular the ones caused by oils or fatty acids. What are the most important global trends in the field of sun skin care? Reiner Joos, Account Manager EMEA, DuPont, USA: We see a growing demand for increased SPF in sun care products worldwide. In Europe, Asia and Australia, for products with a high sun protection factor, SPF 50+ is considered standard. In North and South America, these products are being formulated to even higher SPF values. Reaching these SPF levels through the use of mineral pigments alone is impractical. The goal is reached through combining photo-active chemical filters in combination with mineral pigments such as TiO 2 or ZnO. Apart from effective sun protection, consumers who are increasingly concerned about synthetic actives have identified the inclusion of natural or organic ingredients as a high priority. This comes as concerns about synthetic actives are rising. These seemingly conflicting trends represent the main challenge in formulating sun skin care products. The desire for high effectiveness and minimized synthetic actives has placed significant limitations on formulation strategy. SoBind Harmony is the latest innovative solution from DuPont Soy Polymers. This newly developed family of modified soy protein polymers improves light scattering of mineral pigments and boosts the effectiveness of photo actives. This Ecocert and NaTrue certified ingredient is manufactured with the help of a unique process aligned with global regulatory requirements and sustainability. It provides maximum functionality in sun skin care formulations in a cost effective way. These polymers also provide improved sensory attributes featuring fast skin absorption and a soft, less oily and less tacky, skin feel. What are the latest and the most intrigueing solutions you can provide that engage the senses? Caroline Marlier, Sales Manager Cosmetic Ingredients, Soliance/Givaudan: With the help of actives acting on nerves in the field of neuro-cosmetics, sensations can be influenced at the source. The active ingredient Mariliance is capable of reducing skin neuro-inflammation by inhibiting a pain receptor. It thus increases skin comfort and creates a better skin sensation. What solutions can you offer in the field of cooling? Our series of cooling agents deliver a sustained cooling sensation for a Downloads Additional information can be found at or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face What are your solutions against skin-ageing and pollution? Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, VP Business Development and Marketing, IBR, Israel: One of our solutions to skin ageing and pollution is IBR-Pristinizer. This aqueous extract of Asteriscus Graveolens, the fragrant star, a perennial desert plant used in traditional medicine for multiple treatments against fever, pain and inflammations also offers benefits for healing wounds and preventing microbial infections. This active ingredient can protect skin from damages induced by air pollution, such as cigarette smoke. What methods can prove their effects? We used cigarette smoke as a model for air pollution since it contains thousands of chemicals, 60 of which are highly toxic. These chemicals are similar to the content of polluted air from industry, cars, fires, etc. The cigarette smoke was used to test the benefits of this plant extract on keratinocytes as well as in vivo, using heavy smokers as panelists in the study. The active ingredient significantly improved the survival of keratinocytes exposed to a medium contaminated with cigarette smoke. It modulated the expression of several genes involved in detoxification systems and stress signals, protection from oxidative damage, anti-inflammation and anti-age- 28 l COSSMA 9 I 2015

4 INGREDIENTS MARKETING ing in keratinocytes. After 28 days of use in a double blind, placebo-controlled in-vivo study among panelists that are heavy smokers, the active ingredient delivered anti-ageing effects including decreasing wrinkles and improving skin texture and roughness. It also lightened the skin (as proven with the help of colourimetry). The panelists perceived an improved skin tone, radiance, spots, sensitivity, wrinkles, visible health and visible youthfulness. In what way do smart phones and photoshop have an effect on cosmetics? Dr. Torsten Clarius, Technical Manager Active Ingredients, BASF, Germany: The cosmetics industry finds itself in a quandary. On the one hand, consumers want increasingly specialized products that care for a specific area of their skin. This desire for individualization is also an expression of status. On the other hand, products are expected to be increasingly easy to obtain and to accomplish everything at once. As a solution to this dilemma, some companies have integrated modern media and software into their sales strategy. Image editing apps on a smartphone can simulate the anticipated effect of a care product on a selfie, and the consumer can then order the product at the touch of a button. At this point in time, there are even small, mobile phone devices for analysing the condition of one s skin and which can interface with the mobile phone. With the appropriate app, the result is analysed and suitable products are suggested which, again, can be ordered at the touch of a button. These sales-boosting technologies require care products that have rapid, clearly visible effects products like the so-called Alphabet Creams. These AA, BB, CC (and so on) formulas can be easily adjusted in regards to their content of UV filters, pigments and many active ingredients in order to satisfy the consumer s desire for a perfect skin. The desire for highly efficient sun care products with a minimum content of synthetic actives has placed significant limitations on formulation strategy Many consumers seek products to treat their scars and stretchmarks photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com What are your latest and most innovative solutions in the field of thickeners? Jennifer Cargill, International Sales, AlfaCos, UK: We offer two new, natural Ecocert solutions for thickening natural cosmetic products: one for thickening oils and one for thickening water. Sucragel is a liquid which can gel any oil phase into a thick oily gel at room temperature with a simple paddle stirrer. The final gel has a micro-emulsion aspect which transforms into an emulsion as soon as any water is added. The final gel can be used for a number of different leave-on or wash-off applications such as cleansers, massage gels and body scrubs. Sucraclear is a new water thickener which consists of a blend of natural gums that work together synergistically to produce thick, natural water gels with a clarity to match a synthetic Carbomer gel. This thickener comes in powder form and has to be heated to 70oC in water and is then simply homogenized until uniform. The final gel produces a pleasant soft and silky skin feel which can be used as the water phase for an emulsion or as an under eye gel, body gel or serum. Presentations on the products mentioned were held at Impag s cosmetics seminar event held at Montabaur castle. Photos of the event can be found on the Internet see Internet panel ww.impag.de, photo: Artem Furmann, Shutterstock.com COSSMA 9 I 2015 l 29

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