Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Director L Oreal Europe
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1 THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION Raniero De Stasio Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Director L Oreal Europe
2 OUR MISSION TO OFFER WOMEN AND MEN THE WORLD OVER THE BEST QUALITY, MOST EFFECTIVE, SAFEST COSMETICS AND THEREBY SATISFY ALL THEIR BEAUTY NEEDS AND DESIRES IN ALL THEIR INFINITE DIVERSITY.
3 > 100 YEARS RESEARCH L OREAL
4 THE L OREAL GROUP RESEARCH A DRIVING FORCE BEHIND INNOVATION A KEY FOR GROWTH L OREAL
5 L OREAL RESEARCH KEY FIGURES Millions Euros 3313 PEOPLE 674 PATENTS 100 COLLABORATIONS 80 PUBLICATIONS L OREAL
6 RESEARCH & EVALUATION CENTERS 18 RESEARCH CENTERS 13 EVALUATION CENTERS
7 EFFICACY EVALUATION PROCESS In vitro Cell culture, reconstructed skin In vivo Biological clinical proof C t t Consumer tests multicentric
8 Typical numbers of people exposed to a product in research and marketing studies prior to launch = the body of evidence people Discovery Form. Dev Mkt tst Consmr Tsts Proof of Concept (in vitro) Clinical trials Controlled Subjective Tests Subjective tests
9 BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION NANOSOMES MEXORYL SX XL AMINEXIL CERAMIDE R PROXYLANE SKINOMICS STEM CELLS Delivery vectors UVA photostabe sun filter Anti hair loss The intercellular glue Anti-ageing Screening tool Reactivating Youth Proteins Pampering Stem Cells to reactivate youth
10 Here comes the science bit concentrate! (Jennifer Aniston 1997)
11 RESEARCH CORE ACTIVITIES SKIN CARE APPLIED RESEARCH HAIR CARE ADVANCED RESEARCH APPLIED RESEARCH MAKE UP L OREAL
12 SKIN
13 SKIN A tissue with mechanical properties
14 SKIN A living organ able to tan, to age and that we can reconstruct in vitro
15 1975 FIRST IN VITRO MODEL KERATINOCYTES OVER 3T3 FIBROBLASTS 1979 FIRST TRUE SKIN IN A PETRI DISH INCLUDING HORNY LAYER (DED IDEA) 1986 MELANOCYTES ADDED 1992 SKIN TISSUE GROWTH IN VITRO 1997 EPISKIN ACQUISITION FROM IMEDEX 1998 ECVAM VALIDATON FOR SKIN CORROSION 2006 SKINETHIC ACQUISITION 2007 ECVAM VALIDATION FOR SKIN IRRITATION EPISKIN IN VITRO RECONSTITUTED SKIN FROM TISSUE ENGINEERING L OREAL
16
17 Film Episkin
18 INNOVATION in SKIN CARE 10 years RESEARCH in GENOMICS, PROTEOMICS DISCOVERY : GENE EXPRESSION Young subjects Aged subjects Transcriptomic SIGNATURE Proteic SIGNATURE ANSWER after a stress
19 INNOVATION in SKIN CARE > NEW TARGETS for ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SCREENING > NEW STRATEGIES S to PREVENT, REPAIR, CORRECT PRESERVE SKIN YOUTH BIOLOGICAL AGE < CHRONOLOGICAL AGE
20 A NOVEL ANTI-AGEING «ENGINE»: PRO-XYLANE A«GREEN CHEMISTRY»ACTIVE L OREAL
21 PRO-XYLANE DISCOVERY TARGETING THE EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX OF THE DERMIS Skin structure L OREAL
22 PRO-XYLANE AN ECOFRIENDLY INGREDIENT GREEN CHEMISTRY DISCOVERY L OREAL
23 PRO-XYLANE L OREAL
24 Derma Genesis TV Advert 2007
25 PHOTOSTABLE SUN FILTERS A difficult idea to communicate to consumers EU labelling recommendation: photostability one of the key properties 2007 Garnier Ambre Solaire TV Campaign
26 Garnier Ambre Solaire 2007
27 HAIR
28 HAIR A fibre with mechanical properties A living organ
29 INNOVATION in HAIR COLOUR REINVENTING HAIR DYES Without ODOUR Without t INCONVENIENCE Without COMPROMISING on results A TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGE A SOLUTION : O.D.S. A KEY : THE SCIENCE OF EMULSIONS
30 INNOVATION in HAIR COLOUR Oil Delivery System OIL in WATER WATER in OIL INVERSING PROPORTIONS OF WATER AND OIL PHASES => EFFICACY OF HAIR DYES
31 COLOUR BIOLOGICAL colour CHEMICAL colour: dyes, pigments STRUCTURAL colour: colour without pigments
32 INNOVATION in COLOUR TODA HYBRID PIGMENTS WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET! Shu Uemura L OREAL
33 INNOVATION in MAKE UP Horny layer Epidermis Upper dermis Deep dermis Light / Matter Interaction Toda Pigments
34 How does the future of beauty look like?
35 CONCLUSIONS SCIENCE WORKS WELL IN COMMUNICATIONS WE LIKE TO FIND THE FUSION OF POETRY & SCIENCE TO COMMUNICATE SCIENCE TO OUR CONSUMERS WE PUSH THE BOUNDARY OF SCIENTIFIC COMMUNICATIONS ON EACH KEY INNOVATION WE CREATE YOU CAN EXPECT MORE INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS (AND COMMUNICATIONS) FROM L OREAL FOR THE FUTURE!
36 THANK YOU! ANY QUESTIONS?
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