3/10/2009. THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES Style Tribes Emerge C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

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1 C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. The period of political upheaval worldwide and social unrest in the United States Berlin Wall was erected. Freedom Civil Rights riders rally Peace treaty ending begin 1970 Cuban 1966 Vietnam Washington 1960 the War American D.C. signed. Demonstrations Camp Martin David Luther agreement Missile crisis. Assassination against King of Publication Food Click to advance of Drug Rachel South. President the assassinated. between Vietnam Egypt National United Four States Kennedy Congress Organization students Supreme killed passes the Administration for Court in Civil chronology. Carson s Women anti-war rules Rights book (NOW) that War 200,000 Diplomatic Richard Apollo Robert Nixon s participate bill. approves Russia Betty in and relations the 11 Kennedy lands Israel resignation, goes put Friedan United in opened is to anti-war signed. assassinated. The oral first Silent contraceptive man publishes States. China. the moon. Ford between march becomes the on demonstration abortion at 10,000 Student Martin young Woodstock Luther demonstrations King founded. Kent is legal. State wins Spring. the into University. Three-mile Break-in United Washington Island Nobel space. pill. Prize. Alan Shepard, The people States President. the nuclear music Feminine participate and Watergate. D.C. festival. Europe China power American Mystique in plant and Be-in the Yom First celebration Kippur Arab-Israeli of Earth in Central United Park, New States. astronaut, War. Day. failure occurs. York City. makes suborbital Arabs impose space oil flight embargo. in May. 2 In the fashion arena, by 1960 a change was evident as fashion moved away from New Look styles to a contrasting style. 3 1

2 Designers such as Saint Laurent, Cardin, Ungaro, and others who had trained under important figures of the 50 s led the couture. 4 At the same time they and other new designers expanded into the Ready-to-Wear or Prêt-A-Porter market where Americans had flourished. 5 Social protest had an impact on fashion. They included: 6 2

3 Civil Rights and Black Power 7 Anti-War, Anti-Establishment 8 Feminist Movement 9 3

4 Environmental Movement 10 Street styles, styles that originated among the young who often congregated in groups on the street, began to influence fashion. 11 Groups of mostly young people who had the same interest and wore the same kinds of clothing were called Style Tribes by author Ted Polhemus. Mods Hippies Anti-War Youth Punks 12 4

5 Art movements that influenced fashion included Op Art and Pop Art. c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress 13 Fiber artists began to create items of clothing that became know as Wearable Art. 14 While many women went bra-less, others compromised with a soft No Bra Bra. 15 5

6 The first nylon pantyhose appeared around Other new forms of undergarments appeared, including body stocking and bodysuits. 17 The lines of dresses included such variations as: Empire waistlines (around 1960) A-Line shapes with dresses flaring slightly from neck to hem. Dresses falling straight from a yoke at the shoulder. Dresses unfitted through the torso and with a flounce joint to the hem of the dress at the knee. 18 6

7 Evening dresses usually were short and highly ornamented. 19 A wide variety of sportswear, especially pant such as hip-huggers and hot pants were seen. 20 Outdoor clothing was short and loosely fitted until the end of the 60 s, around 1970 hems lengths started to vary. 21 7

8 Changes in costume for women: Although the fashion industry attempted to get women to wear a mid-calf length skirt call the Midi,, it was not a success in Although women did not want to cover their legs with skirts, pants and pant suits were important components of most women s wardrobes from the late 1960 s on. X X Click on image to enlarge 24 8

9 As more women obtained higher level business jobs, they were advised to dress for success in tailored suits with just a touch of femininity at the neckline. 25 Bias cut evening dresses appeared, long gowns returned to fashion. 26 Most cloth coats were fitted, but there was a fad for puffy, down filled coats in the late 1970 s. 27 9

10 Examples 0f Typical Hair and Headdress Styles from 1960 to s 1960 s 1960 s Early 1970 s 1970 s 1960 s Examples of Typical Footwear Styles from 1960 to Examples of Popular Accessories from 1960 to 1980 Sun glasses Handbags Jewelry 30 10

11 Changes in men s underwear were mostly in their decoration and fabrics used. 31 As mod fashions appeared, men s suits moved from conservative styles to mod-influenced styles. 32 With the social revolution came greater freedom of choice in clothes for men. Esquire Magazine called it the Peacock Revolution

12 New coat styles such as the Nehru Jacket were popular for a short time. 34 Instead of dress shirts, men often wore turtleneck sweaters with suits or sports jackets. 35 Sportswear options increased. One item popular in the 1970 s was the Leisure Suit

13 The young of the 1960 s and after had brought blue jeans to the fashion world and left them as a legacy to the future. 37 For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection Bata Shoe Museum Bath Museum. Interesting feature of the dress of the year. Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. Philadelphia Museum Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at Cornell University Costume Collection cornell edu/treasures/index html Drexel University Costume Gallery Fashion Designers Go to web site and look at pages devoted to fashion designers active between 1960 and Also search on names of specific fashion designers. Many firms and designers are still active and may have their own web pages. 38 For Further Study The Young And Fashion Innovations

14 Image Credits Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at Photo of Birth Control Pills, Courtesy, Photo of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, Courtesy, NASA Photo of Freedom Riders, Courtesy, Southwest Missouri State University Image of Berlin Wall, Courtesy, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Anwar Sadat, Jimmy Carter and Menahem Begin at the Camp David Accords Signing Ceremony, 09/17/1978, Courtesy, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA) Image of UN Viewing Photos of Missile Sites in Cuba 1962, Courtesy the United Nations Photo Library Orchard with Blossoming Plum Trees, 1888, Courtesy the Web Museum, Paris Civil Rights March on Washington 1963, Courtesy, "A female demonstrator offers a flower to military police on guard at the Pentagon during an anti-vietnam demonstration.", Courtesy, National Archives and Records Administration, Records of the Office of The Chief Signal Officer (111-CC-46331) "Women protest the U.S. presence in Vietnam 1969, Courtesy University Archives, Arizona State University Libraries" Betty Friedan, Photograph by World Telegram & Sun photographer Fred Palumbo. 1960, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ Kennedy, Robert. Appearing before the Platform Committee, Photograph by Warren K. Leffler, 1964, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-U President's Family leaves Capitol after Ceremony, John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA) Photograph of White House Meeting with Civil Rights Leaders, June 22, 1963, 06/22/1963,John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA) Alan Ginsberg at the Human Be-In October 1967, Courtesy, MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. at a press conference at the Capitol, Washington, D.C., Photograph by Marion S. Trikosko, March 26, 1964, Library of Congress (LC-U ) Alan Shepard, Apollo 11 Moon Landing, Courtesy NASA Woodstock Photo, Courtesy Alvin Lee, Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA Image Credits Kent State Shooting Aftermath, Courtesy, the Bettman Archive, UPI Peaceful Protest in Washington D.C., 1971 b/w photographs, NYU Archives Photo Collection, Courtesy New York University President and Mrs. Nixon's arrival in Peking, China, Nixon reviewing troops at the airport., 02/21/1972, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Watergate Complex, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Watergate Burglers, 1972 UPI/Bettman Archive Henry Kissinger, right, shaking hands with Le Duc Tho in Paris after their agreement on the cease-fire terms of the Vietnam War, 1973, Photo of Gas Station with "Sold Out Today" sign, 1973, United States Department of Energy The Supreme Court Building, United State Government Printing Office Richard Nixon departs from the White House before Gerald Ford was sworn in as President, By Oliver F. Atkins, Washington, DC, August 9, 1974, Nixon Presidential Materials Project, National Archives and Records Administration" Deng Xiaoping and Jimmy Carter at the arrival ceremony for the Vice Premier of China, 01/29/1979, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA) Three Mile Island, Three Mile Island - April 11, 1979 (Source: NARA) Dior s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips, Vogue, April 1947 "Paris The Wow Proportions," Vogue, March 15, 1965, page 86, from the Author's collection. "The Beautiful Full Body", Givenchy,, August 3, 1962, Fairchild Publications Archives Escargo, Prêt-A-Porter, Vogue, 1967 "Try Police Not Huey" opening day Huey P Newton trial - Oakland Court house - l969, Earth Day Pin, Courtesy, Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA Hippies, Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at 41 Image Credits Punk Hair Styles by Peter Gennard EFIAP/p, "Oh to be in London, Time, April 15, 1966, pp , General Collections, Library of Congress (283) Image of Mod Clothing, Vogue, September 1, 1965, page 197, from the Author's collection # c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress, Courtesy Wearable Art, Courtesy, Robert Hillstead; photographer, John Nollendorfs Designer Rudi Gernreich's "No-Bra" bra in nude tricot for Exquisite Form manufactured, 1969,, December 10, 1969, Fairchild Publications Triple Vision Pantyhose, Good Girl, Bad Girl Pantyhose, Bodysuits, July 31, 1969, Fairchild Publications Empire Waist Dress, Vogue, May 1963, page 163, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications A-Line Dress, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 133, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Evening Dress, Vogue, March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Two Evening Dress, Vogue March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Illustrations from Women's Wear Daily, May 5, 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications. Ungaro Advertisement, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 82, Courtesy,, Condé Nast Publications Julie Driscoll, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 116, Courtesy,, Condé Nast Publications Sketch form Women's Wear Daily, September 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications "Buy Longuettes Bye-Bye Minis",, September 17, 1970, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Mila Schon, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 101, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications # c Incredible, Hard-to-Find EMILIO PUCCI Brown Twill Print Pants Suit, # c. 1960's EMILIO PUCCI Fabulous Silk Mini Dress/Tunic, Bellbottom Pants, and Original Tie Sash, Courtesy, Illustration of Woman in Dress for Success Look, Courtesy Fairchild Publications Vintage 70's Floral Maxi Dress with Attached Asymmetrical Scarf, Courtesy,

15 Image Credits Vintage 70's Bright Rose Pink Halter Maxi Dress, Courtesy, Vintage 70's Black Evening Gown with Shimmering Sequins Bodice, Courtesy, Vintage 60's Bias Cut Animal Print Maxi Dress with Scalloped Hem, Courtesy, Charles de Castelbajac, Women's Wear Daily, April 7, 1976, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications # c. 1960's White Silk Dupioni Mod Hat, # c. early 1970's CHRISTIAN DIOR from Saks Fifth Avenue Grey Wool Felt Floppy Hat with Matching Crochet Trim, # c. 1960's MISS DIOR, by Christian Dior Off-White Chiffon Pom-Pom Beret, # c. 1960's CHRISTIAN DIOR Chapeaux, Paris, New York Light Beige Plush Hat with Black Patent "Bow", # 's Tan Leather Cap, Purses, Wallets and Jewelry, Courtesy, 's and 1970's Sunglasses, Courtesy, Men's Underwear, Men's Wear, January 9, 1968, Courtesy Fairchild Publications 1960's Man's Suit, Daily New Record, February 14, 1967, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications The Nehru Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications 43 15