2012 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry

Transcription

1 2012 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry 2012 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu, 4th FL. Korea Resesrch Institute for Fashion Industry, Republic of Korea Telephone: , Fax: , International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry From Fiber to Consumers: Convergent Approach to Fashion Stream August 14-19, 2012 School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Helsinki, Finland Organized by The Korean Society for Clothing Industry (KSCI), Korea School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland Eco Design Center, Dong-A University, Korea Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry (KRIFI), Korea Sponsored by Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Finland Beaucre Merchandising, Korea Fashion Group Hyungji, Korea Myungsung Tex, Korea

2 2012 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry The 17th International Invited Fashion Exhibition in Helsinki Proceedings From Fiber to Consumers: Convergent Approach to Fashion Stream Eco & Tech August 14-19, 2012 School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland Organized by The Korean Society for Clothing Industry (KSCI), Korea School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland Eco Design Center, Dong-A University, Korea Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry (KRIFI), Korea Sponsored by Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Finland Beaucre Merchandising Fashion Group Hyungji, Korea Myungsung Tex, Korea

3 Organizing Committee President Vice President Conference Chair Exhibition Chair Field Trip Chair Program Committee Yun Ja Nam (Seoul National Univ., Korea) Byung Oh Choi (Fashion Group Hyungji Co. Ltd, Korea) Chil Soon Kim (Kyung Hee Univ., Korea) Eun Joo Park (Dong-A Univ., Korea) Jeong-Koo Woo (Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry, Korea) Sang Yool Kim (Mokpo National Univ., Korea) Suk Hyang Yang (Sunchun Univ., Korea) Yang Suk Ku (Kyungpook National Univ., Korea) Kueng-Mi Choi (Dong Seoul College, Korea) Chil Soon Kim (Kyung Hee Univ., Korea) Pirjo Hirvonen (AaltoUniv.,Finland) Sung Hye Jung (Inha Univ.) Pirjo Kääriäinen (Aalto Univ., Finland) Sang Yool Kim (Mokpo National Univ.) Cui Ming Hai (Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, China) Dae Geun Jun (Andong Univ., Korea) Eija Salmi (Aalto Univ., Finland) Eun-joo Cho (Honam Univ., Korea) Eunkyung Park (Univ. of Incheon, Korea) Gilsoo Cho (Yonsei University, Korea) Ho Jung Choo (Seoul National Univ., Korea) Hye Kyung Kim (Wonkwang Univ., Korea) Hye Rim Kim (Sookmyung Women s Univ.) Hyunsook Kim (Paichai University) Hsueh Chin Ko (National Pintung Univ. of Science and Technology, Taiwan) Jeong Sook Lee (Gyeongsang National Univ., Korea) Jin Mie Chae (Hansung Univ., Korea) Joo Young Shin (Hong Kong Polytech, Hong Kong) Ju-hee Park (Samsung Art & Design Institute, Korea) Kaisa Kivelä (Aalto Univ., Finland) Kyung Hee Lee (Kumoh National Institute of Technology) Kyung Wha Oh (Chung-Ang Univ., Korea) Min Sun Lee (Sangmyung Univ., Korea) Pirjo Hirvonen (AaltoUniv.,Finland) 2

4 Executive director Secretary Pirjo Kääriäinen (Aalto Univ., Finland) Shinhee Lee (Kyungpook Univ., Korea) Suk Hee Lee (Honam Univ., Korea) Sun A O (Raffles Design Institute, Singapore) Taeko Hirokawa (Bunka Women s Univ., Japan) Tae Gue Choo (Kyungpook National Univ., Korea) Young Ah Kwon (Silla Univ., Korea) Young Moo Ahn (Hansung Univ., Korea) Young Sam Kim (Chung-Ang Univ., Korea) Young Soo Chang (German Archaeological Institute, Germany) Yoshiko Takahshi (Bunka Women s Univ. Junior College, Japan) Soonjee Park (Yeungnam Univ., Korea) Tae-Gyou Kim (Daegu Art Univ., Korea) Na Gyeol Jang 3

5 GREETINGS Dear Members and Participants, I am very pleased to meet you here at the 2012 International Conference on Fashion Design & Apparel Industry, 17 th International Invited Fashion Exhibition of Professors, and 28 th Overseas Apparel Industry Field Trip organized by the Korean Society for Clothing Industry (KSCI). The conference and exhibition are held jointly with School of Art, Design and Architecture at Alto University and the Eco D-Center supported by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy in Korea, and promises to offer a great experience to attendees from around the world. The main themes are "From Fiber to Consumers Convergent approach to fashion stream" and Eco & Tech, for the conference and exhibition, respectively. KSCI, founded in 1998, is one of the leading academic professional organizations in the world, comprised of one thousand and six hundred members, from practitioners to professors and students involved in textile, apparel and fashion areas in Korea. KSCI promotes research and education in the field of the textile and apparel industry through various activities. KSCI has hosted annual exhibitions at many cities around the world such as Tokyo, Rome, Sydney, Prague, Istanbul, New Delhi, Moscow, Hanoi, Madrid, Kuala Lumpur, Tashkent and Kaohsiung. Those exhibitions have provided a great opportunity to promote cultural exchange and share information among worldwide textile and apparel researchers. This year we have prepared an international conference on the fashion design and apparel industry upon the request of our members. I am sure that the 2012 conference and exhibition in Finland will provide a great chance for an interchange of ideas and prove to be a fabulous experience for all the attendees. I would like to thank President Tuula Teeri and Dean Helena Hyvonen, for the invitation and providing the wonderful facilities. And I would like to send a special thanks to Professors Pirjo Hirvonen and all of the faculty of the School of Art, Design and Architecture at Alto University, and the KSCI organizing committee, and concerned members for their efforts in preparing for the conference and exhibition. I would especially like to extend my gratitude to our plenary speakers, Professor Dong Sung Cho of Seoul National University, Professor Pirjo Hirvonen of Aalto University, and Professor Jeong Sook Lee of Gyeongsang National University. Finally, I would like express my deep appreciation to all of participants. Your participation will make the conference and exhibition more valuable and successful. I sincerely hope all the participant will enjoy the beautiful artworks and invaluable meetings provided through these academic activities. I also hope that the event will contribute to further understanding Korean culture and developing friendships and a global network in the fashion industry. 4 Yun Ja NAM President Korean Society for Clothing Industry

6 GREETINGS Dear Scholars and Experts, Welcome to the 2012 International Conference and the 17th International Invited Fashion Exhibition of Professors organized by the Korean Society for the Clothing Industry (KSCI) and held jointly with the Aalto University. On the behalf of the Aalto University, I have the privilege of welcoming you to this significant event as well as to Finland and to the Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture. KSCI has rich experiences in organizing the event with universities of different countries, thereby promoting cultural exchange and fellowship amongst scholars and professionals around the world. Established in 2010, the Aalto University is a new university with centuries of experience. The university was created from the merger of three historical Finnish universities and is an inspiring combination of technology, business, design and art. This opens up a great possibility for new multi-disciplinary collaboration. The Aalto University is strongly future-oriented. A learning-centered culture that encourages students and staff to passionately learn new things will be fostered. The university will focus its research on major global issues, the call for a cross-disciplinary approach and high-quality research and education in an internationally attractive learning and research environment. We are in front of big global challenges and changes and we must be creative actors of our shared future. The main theme of this conference From Fiber to Consumers: Convergent Approach to Fashion Stream match well with the key ideas of the Aalto University and the fashion and clothing design education and research at the university. The degree programmes in Fashion and Clothing Design trains professional designers, artists and researchers for the needs of future society. The professional operating environments in the field consist of international and multidisciplinary networks. Successful operation in different parts of the field requires not only artistic and professional competence, but also knowledge of and interest in following business principles, social changes and technological developments. Work tasks often comprise complex entities that require a responsible understanding of the effects of one s own work. Wish the conference and KSCI a great success, and inspiring and enriching dialog and networking with the conference participants and the Aalto University professors and students. And enjoy your visit in Finland. Martti Raevaara Vice President and Professor Aalto University 5

7 GREETINGS Welcome to World Design Capital Helsinki, Finland! Dear Korean and Finnish fashion designers, professors, friends, We have chosen the right place at the right time: Helsinki is the 2012 World Design Capital, and Seoul was the previous Design Capital. Combining the two capitals of two great countries one in the East, another in the West is ideal for mutually profiting from the experiences and ideas of the world s leading design professionals. The event is co-hosted by the Korean Society of Clothing Industries, which is known as the gateway to the world of apparel industry. More than 50 experts have arrived from over 20 Korean colleges and several companies, all of them leaders in their respective fields of fashion design, materials and apparels. The right people from Korea. From Finland, the event is co-hosted by Aalto University a fusion of three colleges representing the three key areas of the conference: design, technology and business. The right people from Finland. Seoul is one of the closest Asian metropolises to Europe, and Helsinki is the nearest West-European city from Seoul. A direct flight connects the two cities, facilitating our increasing exchanges. This event provides a great opportunity for the best minds of our two countries to exchange ideas, technologies and business models. In the world of inspiration and creative art, one plus one can be more than two. Through this event, let us build a bridge of friendship and cooperation between Korea and Finland, Asia and Europe. Dongsun Park Ambassador Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Finland 6

8 GREETINGS Dear Colleagues, I am very happy to sponsor the 2012 International Conference on FDAI and the 17th International Invited Fashion Exhibition at Lisbon. The theme of this Conference and Exhibition of KSCI, From Fiber to Consumers: Convergent approach to fashion stream and Eco & Tech, provides the perfect backdrop for convergence of eco-friendly idea and high technology in the multiple fields of Design works and researches. The ECO D-Center (Eco Design Center) which is the Regional Innovation System (RIS) Project supported by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy of Korea Government, pursues the development of traveling products and appliances merged eco-friendly design and materials. ECO D-Center also contributes to encourage regional economies by networking with related enterprises of Eco markets in Korea. The goal of the International Conference and Exhibition of KSCI is to bring together designers, disciplines and researchers from various areas to present their works and researches results under common themes. These interactions will work to facilitate a better understanding of the diversity and commonalities of different academic approaches. The conference will also hopefully inspire participants to begin new design opportunities and research projects with a global scale. I wish all of us to enjoy wonderful Conference and Exhibition of KSCI at Helsinki. Best Regards, Eun Joo Park, Ph.D. Director, Eco Design Center in Dong-A University Professor of Fashion Design, Dong-A university, South Korea 7

9 GREETINGS Dear Colleagues, I am Jeong-Koo Woo, the president of Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry. I want to thank you, the related people as well as the president of Korean Society for Clothing Industry who gave every effort and hard work for this event. Recently we are enjoying various kinds of conveniences due to the development of IT and information & communication. Considering the conveniences based on the technology development is being sublimated to enhance the quality of life by nature, and the clothes and fashion part is not an exception. We are endeavoring to deal with the digital era through the computerization of clothes designing, plan, manufacture process, and through the fusion of IT, BT, CT, etc. We are growing from clothes industry of the existing protection and fashion beauty to the future industry that can create high values through the relation with other industries for the pursuit of new functionality. I expect that KSCI will also do the major role to lead the future of Korean Clothes and Fashion Industry by networking with the related industry and Institutes, etc, and developing them as well as foster experts for the development of Clothes and Fashion Industry according to the development of future industry. I hope that this conference will give a chance for you to learn new knowledge and that this will be a good event for you to communicate and build up friendship during the stay in Finland. Again I'd like to thank the president of KSCI, professor Yun Ja Nam and all the related people who did the hard work to open this international conference, and I pray for everyone s health. Jeong-Koo WOO President Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry, Korea 8

10 2012 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry The 17th International Invited Fashion Exhibition in Helsinki Theme Conference: From Fiber to Consumers: Convergent Approach to Fashion Stream Exhibition: Eco & Tech Host Organizer Venue The Korean Society for Clothing Industry (KSCI), Korea School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland The Korean Society for Clothing Industry (KSCI), Korea School of Art, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland Eco Design Center, Dong-A University, Korea Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry (KRIFI), Korea Conference: SAMPO SALI (Hämeentie 135 C, ground floor) Exhibition: GALLERIAKÄ YTÄ VÄ, (Hämeentie 135 C, ground floor) Fashion Field Research and Workshop: H&M Flagshop, Marimekko Company, Design Center, etc. Date August 13-19,

11 Conference and Exhibition Schedule August 14 Venues 09:00~12:00 Fashion Exhibition Setup GALLERIA KÄ YTÄ VÄ (Hämeentie 135C, ground floor) August 15 09:30~10:00 Registration 10:00~12:30 Opening Ceremony Welcoming Speech: Presider : Gilsoo Cho (Professor, Yonsei Univ., Korea) Yun Ja Nam (President, KSCI, Korea), Martti Raevaara (Vice President of Academic Affairs in Aalto Univ., Finland) Dong Sun Park (Ambassador, Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Finland) Pirjo Hirvonen (Head of Fashion and Textile, Aalto Univ., Finland) Chil Soon Kim (Conference chair, KSCI, Korea) Plenary Speech: Presider : Chil Soon Kim (Professor, Kyung Hee Univ., Korea) Total Image Management, Dong Sung Cho (Professor, Seoul National University, Korea) European Fashion Trend and New Direction, Pirjo Hirvonen (Head of Fashion and Textile, Aalto Univ., Finland) Korean Traditional Dyeing & Culture, Jeong Sook Lee (Pofessor, Gyeongsang National University, Korea) SAMPO SALI (Hämeentie 135C, ground floor) 12:30~14:00 Lunch Cafeteria 14:00~15:00 Exhibition Presentation Sung Hye Jung (Exhibition chair, KSCI, Korea) GALLERIA KÄ YTÄ VÄ (Hämeentie 135C, ground floor) 15:00~16:40 Academic Sessions Classroom 6087 and 6088 (Hämeentie 135C, 6th floor) 16:40~17:00 Coffee Break YLÄ LÄ MPIÖ (Hämeentie 135C, ground floor) 17:00~18:00 Poster Sessions YLÄ LÄ MPIÖ & The hall of the 6th floor in the department of fashion and textile 10

12 18:00~18:30 Award Ceremony Moderator: Yang Suk Ku (Professor, Kyungpook Univ., Korea) 19:30~21:00 Reception Moderator: Eun Joo Park (Professor, Dong-A Univ., Korea) August 13~19 Fashion Field Research and Workshop : H&M Flagshop, Marimekko Company, Design Center, etc. YLÄ LÄ MPIÖ & The hall of the 6th floor in the department of fashion and textile Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Finland 2012 Academic Sessions Oral Presentations Session Chairs Session 1 Textile Science Jeong Dae Jang (Pusan National Univ., Korea) Jong Jun Kim Session 2 Session 3 Aesthetics/Fashion and Textile Design Fashion Production Technology (Ewha Womans Univ., Korea) Eunkyung, Park (Incheon Univ., Korea) Pirjo Kääriäinen (Aalto Univ., Finland) Jung Mi Kim (Pukyoung Natonal Univ., Korea) Myung Hee Lee (Pukyong National Univ., Korea) Jung A Song (Kyungpook National Univ., Korea) Soonjee Park (Yeungnam Univ., Korea) Session 4 Fashion Marketing Yong Ju Kim (Hansung Univ., Korea) Session 5 Convergence Area Hsueh-Chin Ko (NPUST, Taiwan) Poster Presentations Reviewers Yi Chang Yang (Shih Chien Univ., Taiwan), Jung Soon Lee (Chungnam National Univ., Korea), Eun Kyung Lee (Daejeon Univ., Korea), Hi Za You (Fashion Institute of Kolon, Korea), Yang Suk Ku (Kyungpook National Univ., Korea), Soonjee Park (Yeungnam Univ., Korea) 11

13 Oral Session Classroom 6087 (Hämeentie 135C, 6th floor) Session Author(s) Affiliation Title Chair Textile Science Mi-Kyoung Kim, So-Young Kang, Jong-Jun Kim, Dong-Won Jeon* Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee* Ewha Womans Univ. Chungnam National Univ. Effect of Chitosan Addition in the Indigo Dyeing of Cotton Fibers on Their Dyeing Properties Functionality of Fabric Dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract(Part I) - Antibacterial Ability and Antifungal Activity- Jeong Dae Jang Jong Jun Kim Aesthetics /Fahsion and Textile Design Kirsi Niinimäki Aalto Univ. Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption Eunkyung Park Eun-joo Cho Honam Univ. A Study of Printed T-shirt Designs Pirjo Kääriäinen Ju-hee Park*, Myung-ock Lee Samsung Art & Design Institute The Design Method for Realization of Volume: Case Study of Workshops with La Cambre-Mode[s] Jeong Mee Kim Classroom 6088 (Hämeentie 135C, 6th floor) Session Author(s) Affiliation Title Chair The Culture Surrounding the Dyeing of Seoul National Soon-Young Kim Royal Garments in the Latter Part of Univ. Korea s Joseon Dynasty Convergence Area Fashion Marketing Fashion Production Technology Karen Ka-Leung Moon*, Charlotte Sze- Yeung Lai Wolhee Do Hye Suk Kim*, Yun Ja Nam, Ming Hai Cui Hsueh-Chin Ko*, Chia-Fen Li Seoul National Univ., The Hong Kong Polytechnic Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Seoul National Univ., Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Pingtung Univ. of Science and Technology Can Environmentalism and Fashionism Co-exist? Wearing Condition and Dissatisfaction with Medical Compression Stocking - Focusing on the Imported Medical Compression Stockings in Korean Market - A Study on Improvements of Infants Denim Slacks Construction method Based on Physical Characteristics and Different Areas of the Body when Wearing - Focusing on 4-year-old Boys - The Research of the Reaction to the Shape of Fashion Design for the Visually Disabled Hsueh-Chin Ko Yong Ju Kim Myung Hee Lee Jung A Song Soonjee Park 12

14 Poster Session Venue:YLÄLÄMPIÖ & The hall of the 6th floor in the department of fashion and textile Session 1 (S1-S11): Textile material, Textile care and management Author(s) Affiliation Title S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 S9 S10 S11 Hyun Sook Bae Younsook Shin, Kyunghee Son, Dong-Il Yoo Younsook Shin, Kyunghee Son, Dong-Il Yoo SuYoung Ha, Jeong Dae Jang Eui Kyung Roh, Kyung Wha Oh Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee, Myungeun Lee, Sangji Han, Kyunghyun Lee, Gilsoo Cho Jeong Sook Lee, Joo Hyun Park Tae-Gyou Kim, Oh-Kyung Kwon, Sun-Hwa Park, Chong Hee Yun, Do-Hyun Lee, Chae Keun Lim Ju Youn Kwon, Kyung-Suk Lee, Sun-Hwa Kim, Do Hee Kim, Hye-Seon Chae, Hyo-Cher Kim SeoHyo Kim, Chang Kyu Park, Joonseok Koh, Ho Sun Lim Changwon National Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Pusan National Univ. Chung-Ang Univ. Chungnam National Univ. Yonsei Univ. Gyeongsang National Univ. Daegu Arts Univ., BSG Co., Ltd, Korea Dyeing Technology Center, Defense Agency for Technology and Quality National Academy of Agricultural Science, Sunchon National Univ. Konkuk Univ., i-fashionbiz Center The Mechanical Properties of Working Clothes Material Considering Working Process in Shipbuilding Industry Aroma Finishing on Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Thermo-regulating Properties of Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Treated with PCM Microcapsules Preparation and Practicality of Persimmon Extract Powder Dye Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Man-made Leather according to Use Functionality of Fabric Dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract (Part II) -Ultra Violet Blocking and Deoderization- Snowflake Pattern Meets Textile/Fashion with Sensibility Effects of Combination-Natural Dyeing on the Physical Properties and Functionality of Eco- friendly Fabrics (1) - Dyeability of Combination-dyed Fabrics with the Bark of Ash and Japanese Pagoda Tree Extracts Thermal Physiological Responses of Wearing Tank Driver s Clothing A Preliminary Survey of the Actual Conditions of Wearing Clothing during Working Outdoors Study on Drapability and Mechanical Properties of Fabric Session 2 (D1-D13): Aesthetic/Fashion design, Textile design, History Author(s) Affiliation Title D1 Haesook Kwon Sangmyung Univ. Domestic Researches of Creativity Techniques in Design 13

15 D2 Soon Ja Kim Sangmyung Univ. D3 Suk-Hyang Yang Sunchon National Univ. Characteristics and Meanings of Persona-oriented Expression in Contemporary Fashion Design Development of Designs for Fashion Cultural Goods Applied the Korean Traditional Knot D4 Eun Kyung Lee Daejeon Univ. A Study on Fashion Display Design using Combine Technique D5 D6 Chil Soon Kim, Heesoon Yang Youngsoo Yi- Chang Kyung Hee Univ. The German Archaeological Institute The Preferred White & Color Dress Designs and Textiles for Korean Women s Wedding Occasion The Study on the Form of Scythian Trousers D7 Kyung Hee Choi Honam Univ. A Study on Upcycling Design in Fashion Industry D8 Youn Soon Lee Yeungnam Univ. D9 Mi-Jeong Kwon Pusan National Univ. A Study on Proposals of Preservations and Applications of Wedding Gyubang Crafts A Study on the Lasa Aesthetics in Musical Film Costume of Korea and India - Focused on the <The Fox Family> and <Dancing Muthu>- D10 Jeom-Soon Yoon Honam Univ. A Study on Chinese Paintings Represented in Modern Fashion D11 D12 Sun Young Kim Sun Young Kim Sunchon National Univ. Sunchon National Univ. A Study of the Scarf Design Combined with Op Art and Geometrical Pattern of Traditional Ddeoksal Trend and Aesthetic Value of Opening as Open Space Shown in the Modern Fashion D13 Sukhee Lee Honam Univ. A Study on Fashion Design Applying Chinese Armors Session 3 (C1-C17): Fashion Production Technology Author(s) Affiliation Title C1 C2 C3 In Hwa Kim, Yun Ja Nam, Sung Min Kim Chil Soon Kim, Kyung Jin Lee, Yusun Lee Joohyun Lee, Yun Ja Nam Seoul National Univ., Chonnam National Univ. Kyung Hee Univ., Sposabella, Fashion In Trend Seoul National Univ. Development of Men s Slacks Pattern Drafting Method and Automatic Pattern Drafting Program for MTM Production Light Weight Velvet Wedding Dress Development to fit Chinese Women s Taste through Fashion Stream Collaboration Development of Pattern for Combat Uniform C4 Sooim Rha Sangmyung Univ. A Study on Techniques of 3-D Draping C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 Wolhee Do Myunghee Lee Jungsoon Lee, Jeongmee Kim Dong-Hyun Kim, Jeong-ah Jang Jung-il Jun. Kueng-Mi Choi, Young-Sil Ryu, Sun-Mi Park Kueng-Mi Choi, Jung-il Jun, Taeko Hirokawa Hyun-Jung Hwang, Jung-il Jun, Kueng-Mi Choi Chonnam National Univ. Pukyong National Univ. Sangmyung Univ. Pukyong National Univ. Pusan National Univ. FiTenBODY Co. Ltd., Dong Seoul College, Konkuk Univ. Dong Seoul College, FiTenBODY Co. Ltd., Bunka Gakuen Univ. FiTenBODY Co. Ltd., Dong Seoul College Prediction of Clothing Formability of Men's Active Sports Jacket from Mechanical Properties Development of One-cut Dress with Cowl Design Research on the Actual Condition of Adult-male Products for Urinary Incontinence on Market The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferences for Men s Slim-fit Dress Shirts Development of Standard Body Type Virtual Models for Korean Men and Women in their Twenties and Thirties Development of a Pattern Design Algorithm for Personalized Mass- Customization Patterns for Obese Preteen Boys Categorization of School Uniform Designs for Automatic Pattern Search Focusing on Boys Summer Uniforms- 14

16 C12 C13 Gumhwa Kim, Keiko Hiraragi, Yoshiko Yanagida, Taeko Hirokawa Young-Sil Ryu, Jung-il Jun, Kueng-Mi Choi, Sun-Mi Park Kunkuk Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ. Graduate School FiTenBODY Co., Ltd., Dong Seoul College, Konkuk Univ. C14 Sun-Mi Park Konkuk University C15 Taeko Hirokawa, Gumhwa Kim, Akemi Isozaki, YoshikoYanagida, Keiko Hiraragi Bunka Gakuen Univ. Graduate School, KunKuk Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ. C16 Young Lim Choi Daegu Univ. A Study on Change of the Seeing and Hearing Mouth Nose of the Period of Growth Boy and Girl Using 3D Data Development of a Virtual Fitting Model and Dummy for the Men s Apparel Industry Using 3D Human Body Modeling Technology A Study on the Perceived Body Shape and Clothing Purchase Criteria Shape Characteristics of Elderly Women in Japan and Korea Silver Industry -Using the 3D Human Body Measurement Data- Development of Dress Shirts Sizing System for Mass Customization C17 Young Lim Choi Daegu Univ. Size Specifications for Females Aged Between 7 and 18 Session 4 (M1-M13): Fashion marketing Author(s) Affiliation Title M1 Hyun Min Kong Kyung Hee Univ. M2 Yongju Kim Hansung Univ. A Case Study on Current SPA Brands (Fast Fashion) Waste Issues and Possible Future Directions Analysis of QR Code Application of Korean Fashion Firms Focused Fashion Ads in Korean Fashion Magazines - M3 Hanna Kim Chungnam National Univ. The Perceived Value of Eco-friendly Apparel Consumption : The Moderating Effect of Brand Familiarity M4 M5 M6 Soo-Kyoung Ahn, Eun-Jeong Ryou Eun hah Wee, Woo Mi Park Sae-eun Lee, Yuri Lee, Jin Woo Choi Changwon National Univ. Chonnam National Univ., Gwangju Univ. Seoul National Univ. M7 Yongju Kim Hansung Univ. The Effect of Clothing Consumption Value on the Clothing Disposal Behavior The Effects of Appearance Concern on the Interpersonal Relationships of Adolescents Adoption of New Technological Product as Fashion Product in the Social Context Market Growth and Import Penetration of Watch Market in Korea since the year 2002 M8 M9 M10 M11 Daegeun Jun Eun Joo Park, Shin Young Park Ji eun Jung, Ho Jung Choo, Ha Kyung Lee Sangwoo Seo, Ho Jung Choo, Ha Kyung Lee Andong National Univ. Dong-A Univ. Seoul National Univ. Yerigo Inc., Seoul National Univ. M12 Yi Chang Yang Shih Chien Univ. Effects of the Shopping Orientation on the Evaluative Criteria of Bag Flow and E-impulse Buying for Fashion Products The Effects of Word of Mouth regarding Fashion Products in Mobile Social Networking Services Advertisement/PR Activities of Online Fashion Shopping-malls & Factors to Attract Consumers by Each Type of Shopping-mall Consumer Values: The Development of Marketing Strategies for Luxury Fashion Brands M13 Eun Joo Park Dong-A Univ. Product Attributes and E-impulse Buying for Apparel Products 15

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18 2012 FDAI in Helsinki Plenary Speech Venue: SAMPO SALI (Hämeentie 135C, ground floor) Dong Sung Cho Pirjo Hirvonen Jeong Sook Lee 17

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20 Plenary Lecture 1: Total Image Management(TIM) Dong-Sung Cho Professor of Strategy, Seoul National University, Korea Dong-Sung Cho is Professor of Strategy, International Business, Management Design, and Sustainability Management at Seoul National University. He received a doctoral degree from Harvard Business School in 1976, and worked at Gulf Oil s Planning Group before joining SNU in He was a visiting professor at HBS, INSEAD, Helsinki School of Economics, the University of Tokyo, Hitotsubashi University, University of Michigan, Duke, Peking, Zhejiang and Nankai University. Since 2006, he is Jointly-Appointed Professor at Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business. Among the 57 books he published are 5 English titlesthe General Trading Company by Lexington Books (1986), Tiger Technology: the Rise of the Semiconductor Industry in Asia by Cambridge University Press (1999), From Adam Smith to Michael Porter: Evolution of Competitiveness Theory by World Scientific (2000), Design Management, Management Designby SNU Press (2011), and IPS National Competitiveness Research ( ). He published 110 academic papers in major journals such as Organization Science, Research Policy, and Journal of World Business. He wrote a novel titled The Rose and the Wild Rose, which has been translated into Chinese with a title 決定女人一生的兩禾中选择. ( 北京, 中國友誼出版公司, , ISBN ).He received two Honorary Doctoral Degrees, from Inje University in Busan (2007) and Aalto University in Helsinki (2011) respectively. He was Dean of the College of Business Administration, SNU, , Dean of the Graduate School of International and Area Studies, SNU, , and Founding Managing Director of SNU Development Foundation with which Seoul National University has become the pioneer in fundraising in Korea. He was President of Korean Academic Society of Business Administration, which is the flagship organization in Korea representing 87 functionally-oriented academic societies in business administration. He also chaired Korean Association of Academic Societies, which is the umbrella organization of 651 academic societies that encompass humanities, social sciences, natural sciences, engineering, and others. He was Chair of the Committee for Government Innovation Management, and Co-Chair of the Committee for Synergistic Cooperation between Big and Small Corporations jointly with Prime Minister of Korea. Since 2008, he has been in the Presidential Council for National Competitiveness of Korea. He is on the Board of Directors at Korea National Opera Company, and also on the Board of Directors at Korea Professional Football League. He is Honorary Consul General of Finland in Korea, and Director General of Ahn Jung Geun Memorial & Museum. 19

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32 Plenary Lecture 2: European Fashion Trend and New Direction Pirjo Hirvonen Professor, Head of Department of Design School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland Pirjo Hirvonen has worked as a professor of fashion design at the School of Arts, Design and Architecture since She was appointed head of Fashion and Clothing Design & Textile Art in 2003, and in 2008 she became Dean of the School of Design. In the beginning of 2010 she started as head of the Department of Design in Aalto University School of Art and Design, since 2012 Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture. Pirjo Hirvonen has been actively involved in developing operational and educational opportunities in the area of fashion and clothing design, entrepreneurship and fashion business. She has participated in and coordinated international projects and collaboration as well as organized cooperation projects with business enterprises. She has also been in charge of preparing process of Creative Sustainability, a new cross disciplinary master degree program of Aalto University. Pirjo Hirvonen graduated from the School of Art and Design in After that, she worked as a designer and head designer in the Finnish fashion industry and as a freelance designer abroad. She specialized in industrial fashion design, especially coordinating and designing women s wear and outerwear collections. Through her strong work experience and professional know-how Pirjo Hirvonen has also held several positions at various bodies and organizations, e.g. as the president of The Finnish Association of Fashion Designers MTO and vice president of The Finnish Association of Designers ORNAMO. At Aalto University I have been fortunate to have a very good view over international design and fashion design education. Also my many good international contacts with professional partners have offered a great opportunity to identify the global fashion business today. According to these views I see we are in Europe facing a future where a new fashion generation will work in continuously changing situation and with many demanding global problems. The present unsure economical situation in Europe opens an unknown future and it strengthens the fundamental values of human life. Furthermore the consciousness of the global climate change and the understanding of our responsibility for nature and earth are directing us to new solutions. We are now looking for answers how to share our tasks globally in the future, also in fashion business. In this context young European fashion designers are going to give an important refreshing and powerful input into fashion business. The passion for fashion and ambition to create beauty for people are key points in successful fashion design. This all combined with the knowledge of functionality and of possibilities offered by new technology is a good starting point for rebuilding new fashion concepts. In the global fashion business European fashion design has still its own strong role. What would be the new directions of European fashion and fashion design created by young talents? 31

33 Plenary Lecture 3: Korean Traditional Dyeing & Culture Jeong Sook Lee Professor, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, College of Natural Sciences, Gyeongsang National University, Korea Jeong Sook Lee has worked as a professor of the department of clothing & textiles, college of natural sciences, Gyeongsang National University (GNU) since She graduated from the department of clothing & textiles, college of human ecology, Seoul National University (SNU), and received a doctoral degree from SNU in vacation since In 2003 she was elected to the Dean of College of Natural Sciences, GNU. Also she was Dean of the Graduate School of Information Sciences, GNU, 2003~2004. She established Science Experience Center for the students of elementary, middle and high school, GNU, in It was developed to Science-gifted Education Center, GNU, in She has provided special program about color and dyeing with lab for junior students during summer She was President of Korean Society for Clothing Industry in She was Chair of Branch of Busan-Ulsan-Gyeongnam, Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles in She was Vice President of Korean Federation of Women Professors in 2003~2005. She planned many academic activities to support professionals and to establish networks, and to develop the textile/fashion industries through useful information changes. Especially she was going to provide opportunities of training and presentation for the young scholars such as international contests and conferences. She was Director of Korean Silk Research Institute She has been actively involved in developing Jinju Silk industry which is one of famous traditional industries of Korea. She was in the charge of the Regional Innovation System(RIS) Project supported by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy of Korea Government, with programs for Jinju Silk industry including textile design, color and fashion trend information, global marketing, and promotion of silk products in 2004~2010, GNU. She has worked as Vice President/Chief Vice President of Gyeongnam Regional Federation, the Korean Federation of Science and Technology Societies (KOFST) since She was awarded the Grand Prize of Science and Technology of Gyeongnam by Gyeongsangnamdo Province in Since 2003, she has been a director of the Choon-Choo scholarship foundation, GNU. She Published Textile Dyeing -Concepts & Techniques-, and Care of Textile Products as textbooks. She published many papers in the field of textiles, color and dyeing, crystal structure of disperse dyes, detergents and detergency, and silk design products. Recently she is interested in Science, Technology, Engineering, Art, and Mathematics (STEAM) education of Korea. 32

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40 2012 FDAI in Helsinki Oral Presentations Oral Presentation 1 Oral Presentation 2 Classroom 6087 (Hämeentie 135 C, 6 th floor) Classroom 6088 (Hämeentie 135 C, 6 th floor) 39

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42 Oral Presentation1 Classroom 6087 (Hämeentie 135C, 6th floor) Session Author(s) Affiliation Title Chair Textile Science Mi-Kyoung Kim, So-Young Kang, Jong-Jun Kim, Dong-Won Jeon* Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee* Ewha Womans Univ. Chungnam National Univ. Effect of Chitosan Addition in the Indigo Dyeing of Cotton Fibers on Their Dyeing Properties Functionality of Fabric Dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract (Part I) - Antibacterial Ability and Antifungal Activity - Jeong Dae Jang Jong Jun Kim Aesthetics /Fahsion and Textile Design Kirsi Niinimäki Aalto Univ. Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption Eunkyung Park Eun-joo Cho Honam Univ. A Study of Printed T-shirt Designs Pirjo Kääriäinen Ju-hee Park*, Myung-ock Lee Samsung Art & Design Institute The Design Method for Realization of Volume: Case Study of Workshops with La Cambre-Mode[s] Jeong Mee Kim 41

43 O1 Effect of Chitosan Addition in the Indigo Dyeing of Cotton Fibers on Their Dyeing Properties Mi-Kyoung Kim, So-Young Kang, Jong-Jun Kim, Dong-Won Jeon Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University, Korea Due to a multitude of demerits to be improved, a full-scale industrialization of the natural dyeing has not yet been accomplished. However, the indigo dyeing is put to practical use, uniquely among the natural dyestuffs, on an industrial scale. The best merit of the indigo dyeing is that the dye fastness is excellent and the mordant is not necessary. In the indigo dyeing, the reduction process of indigo is complicated, and the dyeing result depends largely upon the change of dyeing conditions. In this study, review is carried out on the excellent effects which are induced during the addition of chitosan into the dye liquor of indigo dyeing. To date, excellent results have been obtained when the chitosan is applied in the natural dyeing. In natural dyeing, the chitosan acts as a kind of additive. It accelerates the dye uptake effectively by improving the linkage between the fibre and dyestuff. In order to simplify the dyeing process, chitosan acid aqueous solution was directly added into the indigo dye liquor. In this study, in order to examine the action of chitosan in detail, it was reviewed separately as reduction process of the indigo dyestuff and dyeing process of the cotton fibre. Also, under the condition of added chitosan into the dye liquor, the effects of the changes in reduction temperature, concentration of reducing agents Na 2 S 2 O 4, reduction time, dyeing temperature, NaOH concentration, and dyeing time on the dyeing results were reviewed in detail. The followings are succinct descriptions of the experimental results. 1) The ΔE value of the dyed material increases by the promoted dye uptake when the chitosan is added during the reduction process of the indigo dyestuff. Also, the blueish color is a little weakened by the addition of chitosan. 2) The effect of the chitosan addition during the reduction process is much better than that of the addition during the cotton dyeing process. 3) The temperature below about 50 is most appropriate for the reduction of indigo dyestuff. Even though it is possible to obtain deep color at the reduction temperature of 60, blotches appear due to the uneven dye uptake. 4) The concentration of 3g/l for the reduction agent Na 2 S 2 O 4 is most appropriate in the reduction of indigo dyestuff. 5) The dyeing process is continued with the significantly promoted reduction process, if the chitosan is added, even under the condition of absolutely insufficient reduction agent(na 2 S 2 O 4 concentration 1g/l). 6) 30min. is the most appropriate time for the reduction of indigo dyestuff. If the reduction time is extended over 40min., uneven dye uptake takes place. saccha@ewha.ac.kr 42

44 7) The best result is obtained at the dyeing temperature of 30. If the dyeing temperature increases over 30, the dyeability is decreased. 8) The deepest color is obtained when the NaOH concentration is maintained at 1g/l during the reduction process of indigo dyestuff. When the NaOH concentration is increased to 2g/l or 3g/l, the ΔE value of dyed material decreases. 9) The dyeing time of 30min. is most appropriate. Since the addition of the chitosan, added during the reduction process, increases the rate of dye uptake appreciably, it is highly recommendable for the reduction of dyeing time. 10) When the chitosan is added, the ill odor generated during the reduction process of indigo and the dyeing process is significantly reduced. Key Words: natural dye, Polygoum tinctoria, Chitosan, reducing agent, cotton fabric 43

45 O2 Functionality of Fabric Dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract (Part I) -Antibacterial Ability and Antifungal Activity- Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam National University, Korea Abstract This study was carried out to investigate the effects of the antibacterial ability and antifungal activity of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract. Juniperus chinensis heartwood was extracted by hot water and methanol. Dried and concentrated extracts powder was used as dye material. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with 0.5% & 1% dye concentrations for 30 min at a liquor ratio 50:1, and dyeing temperature 60, 80. Dyeing solution of hot water extract and methanol extract was distilled water (100%) and ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture respectively. Antibacterial ability was evaluated by KS K 0693:2006 and antifungal activity was evaluated by AATCC 30:2004. As a result of the antibiosis test, for the Staphylococcus aureus, all of the dyed fabrics showed excellent bacteria reduction rate of 99.9%. For the antibacterial activity to Klebsielia pneumoniae, all the fabrics except for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with 0.5% hot water extract showed very excellent antibacterial activity of 99.9%. In the case of antifungal activity, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract showed no growth against Chaetomium globosum fungus. However cotton and silk fabrics dyed with hot water extract has no effect of antifungal activity against Chaetomium globosum fungus. Keywords: Juniperus chinensis heartwood, Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Chaetomium globosum I. Introduction The spectacular development of industrialization and technology in terms of the dyeing industry has developed numerous synthetic dyes plenty of it, such as using a variety of colors and dyeing was convenience. In addition, through a variety of natural dyes to give the functionality to determine the antimicrobial activity of many studies are underway, particularly targeting represents the natural dyes to investigate its potential as is being explored [1]. Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace which cannot be obtained by synthetic dyestuff and reactionism in fashion [2]. Juniperus chinensis is an evergreen coniferous tree belonging to the Cupressaceae class. The wood has been used as sculpture materials, furniture materials and as incense ingredients [3]. The dried heartwood of Juniperus chinensis has been used as a traditional medicine for the remedies of hypertension, arthralgia and rheumatism. Juniperus chinensis has been known to produce various compounds such as sesquiterpenoids, diterpenoids, lignans and other terpenes [4].Essential oils can be called a kind of antibiotic that plants emit to protect themselves from microbial. These jungsoon@cnu.ac.kr 44

46 terpenescontained in extracts of juniper essential oil have a strong antimicrobial activity [5]. Juniperus chinensis extract has the excellent antibacterial activity against skin flora bacteria of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus that can cause inflammation in the skin.in addition, In addition, Antimicrobial study efficacy testing has shown that the extract has good activities against P. ovale and M. furfur fungus that causes folliculitis and dandruff [6]. Staphylococcus aureus is a normal flora of the skin. Staphylococcus aureus tends to be found in moist environments such as the nostrils and armpits, Staphylococcus aureus is widely known as a troublesome opportunistic pathogen. In general, Staphylococcus aureus has been reported one kind of Skin Flora which can cause skin inflammation [7]. Staphylocccoccus aureus causes community acquired and noso-comial pneumonia Klebsiella pneumoniae causes Gram negative pneumonia, non-motile, encapsulated, lactose fermenting, facultative anaerobic, rod shaped bacterium found in the normal flora of the mouth, skin, and intestines. It is among the most common gram-negative bacteria encountered by physicians worldwide. It is a common hospital-acquired pathogen, causing urinary tract infections, nosocomial pneumonia, and intra-abdominal infections. Klebsiella pneumoniae is also a potential communityacquired pathogen [8]. Klebsiella pneumoniae are small Gram-negative coccobacilli that cause necrotizing lobar pneumoniae. It belongs to the normal intestinal flora of man. Normally, the bacterium is harmless in people with weakened immune systems or in weakening by other infections it may occur as pathogens. The bacteria also produce 10% of all hospital-acquired infections, including pneumonia and urinary tract infections, biliary tract and surgical wounds. The most common infection caused by Klebsiella bacteria outside the hospital is pneumoniae [9]. The skin of humans and animals, the mouths, and the gastrointestinal tracts can carry bacteria called Klebsiella Pneumoniae. It can cause infections like a drug-resistant pneumonia and bronchitis. Chaetomium globosum bacteria classified as viable cell counts in plants produces enzymes for cellulose fibers, which is one of the main fungus which rots wood and natural fibers. It is found in books, wood or natural decay buildings. Chaetomium globosum is a kind of rotting fungi which inhabits such places as soil, fiber, and lignin-rich places. Chaetomium globosum have been reported that it is isolated from a variety of plants as an endogenous fungus [10]. We investigated antibacterial activity and antifungal activity against skin flora bacteria Staphylococcus aureus, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Chaetomium globosumfor the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis extract. II. Experimental Cotton and silk fabrics used in the experimental are listed in <Table 1>. Used Juniperus chinensis heartwood for the experiment was imported from USA. Dyeing conditions are listed in <Table 2>. Juniperus chinensis heartwood was extracted by hot water and methanol respectively. Evaporated under vacumm and concentrated extract powder was used as dye material. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with 0.5% & 1% dye concentrations for 30 min at a liquor ratio 50:1, and dyeing temperature 60, 80. Dyeing solution of hot water extract and methanol extract was distilled water (100%) and ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture respectively. Thus, a total eight kinds of fabrics were prepared for determining their antimicrobial and antifungal properties. Antibacterial ability was evaluated by KS K 0693:2006 and antifungal activity was evaluated by AATCC 30:2004.Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Table 1. Characteristics of cotton and silk fabrics for dyeing Fabric Fineness Weight Thickness Density 45

47 Warp Weft (g/m 2 ) (mm) warp weft (5cm 2 ) Cotton 30Nec 30Nec 125±5 0.29± Silk 53denier 53denier 53±2 0.12± ±2.4 Table 2. Dyeing conditions Dye Hot water extract Conc. (%, o.w.b) Time (min) Temperature ( ) Dyeing solution Liquor ratio 0.5, Distilled water (100%) 1:50 Methanol extract 0.5, Ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture 1:30 III. Results and Discussion The antimicrobial properties of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria were tested. The antifungal property of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract using Chaetomium globosum fungus was tested. As a result of the antibiosis test, for the Staphylococcus aureus, all of the dyed fabrics showed excellent bacteria reduction rate of 99.9%. For the antibacterial activity to Klebsiella pneumoniae, all the fabrics except for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with 0.5% hot water extract showed very excellent antibacterial activity of 99.9%. In the case of antifungal activity, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract showed no growth against Chaetomium globosum fungus. However cotton and silk fabrics dyed with hot water extract has no effect of antifungal activity against Chaetomium globosum fungus. IV. Conclusions Silk fabrics dyed with hot water extract from Juniperus Chinensisheartwood showed excellent 99.9 % antimicrobial abilities against both Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus.cotton fabrics dyed with hot water extract from Juniperus Chinensis heartwood showed 99.9% antimicrobial abilities against Staphylococcus aureus. Antifungal activity of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract from Juniperus Chinensis heartwood showed no growth against Chaetomium globosum fungus. References Yu, Y. E., Park, E. Y., Jung, D. H., Byun, S. H., Kim, S. C., & Park, S. M. (2010). Development of Antimicrobial Dye for Natural Dyeing using Natural Substances. Korean Journal of Microbiol. Biotechnol, 38(1), Ki- Hyun Bae. (2004). A Study of Natural Dyeing with Laurel Tree. Unpublished master thesis, Kyung Pook National Universtiy, Korea. 46

48 Kim, T. H. (2001). Studies on the several biological activities of the extracts from Juniperus chinensis L. and Juniperus rigida Sieb. Unpublished master thesis, Kang Won National University, korea. Song, Y. C. (2001). Antioxidant Components from the Heartwood of Juniperus chinensis and their Anticholinesterase Activities. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Woo Sok University, Korea. Lee, J. C. (2004). Effect of Phytoncide on Demodex in human skin. Unpublished master thesis, Chung Ang University, Korea. Yu, M. J. (2009). Skin functional activities of the extracts from Various medicinal plants. Unpublished doctoraldissertation, Cho Sun University, Korea. Yu, Y. E., Park, E. Y., Jung, D. H., Byun, S. H., Kim, S. C., & Park, S. M. (2010). Antibacterial Activity of Oriental Medicinal Herb Extracts against Skin Pathogens. Journal of Life Science, 20(7), Seo, E. Y. (2010). Isolation and Identification of Antifungal Substance Produced by Chaetomium globosum CNU 9051, an Endophytic Fungus, and It's Biological Control against Some Plant Pathogenic Fungi un Young Seo epartment of Agricultural Biology. Unpublished master thesis, Chungnam National University, Korea. 47

49 O3 Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption Kirsi Niinimäki Design Research, Design and Architecture, School of Arts, Aalto University, Finland One of the main challenges in today s consumer society is how to design products that encourage consumers to engage in more environmentally responsible behaviour, or sustainable consumption.this presentation opens the discussion on how to change current unsustainable consumption behaviour related to clothing through a visionary, far-sighted design approach. Designers can create futureoriented sustainable designs that can transform consumption patterns towards more sustainable ones. Design for sustainability can thus be a redirective practice that aims for sustainable consumption, and the ways in which fashion design can be a proactive process with this aim will be described. This presentation shows why emotional satisfaction and enhancing a product s quality and other intrinsic characteristics are most important when attempting to extend the product s lifetime. Furthermore, this paper shows that services can create an opportunity to extend the enjoyable use of a product and offer satisfaction to consumers in a sustainable manner. Keywords: Proactive design, Sustainable design, Sustainable consumption, Consumption emotion, Emotional satisfaction, PSS, Person-product relationship. 48

50 O4 A Study of Printed T-shirt Designs Eun-joo Cho Assistant Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, Honam University, Korea I. Introduction Today, the T-shirt is a basic piece of clothing, which is put on simply and effortlessly. It is a wellloved piece of clothing. It also acts as an empty space in human body in addition to its convenience. In addition, the T-shirt is a way for modern people to actively express themselves and show off their personalities. Under the flood of various T-shirts, printing represents diverse consumption culture, emotional communication based on art and culture and a means of communication through recreational functions. This study aims to investigate the present day desire for diversity and novelty through T-shirts even in standardized consumption culture by analyzing printed designs. It appears that the result of this study will be helpful in diversifying future T-shirt designs. II. Methodology Both a literature review and case study were performed. First, the history of T-shirt printing was reviewed, and the diverse meaning and characteristics of printed T-shirt design were investigated after classifying various types of T-shirt printing. The photos were collected through related references and diverse websites. III. Results and Conclusion 3.1 Origin of T-shirt printing The origin of the T-shirt is unknown, but it is estimated that its popularity began in the late 19 th century. At that time, however, it was just an undershirt. In the late 1940s, T-shirts with political messages were first used during the U.S. presidential election campaigns. Since the early 1950s, Walt Disney character-printed T-shirts have been popular. In addition, because Hollywood stars would often wear these T-shirts, they soon became big hits with customers. After plastisol was invented in 1959, it became possible to produce a variety of printed T-shirt designs. In particular, the all-american actress Jean Seberg, star of the famous French New Wave film Breathless (directed by Jean Luc-Godard), was the first woman to wear a letter-printed T-shirt. Now, the T-shirt has become a convenient fashion item which can be enjoyed by all people and a functional means to contain diverse messages and designs. During the 1960s, the T-shirt was widely used by multinational companies as a means to advertise their brand and products. They were able to maximize corporate PR at low cost with their logo or image-printed T-shirt. In addition, T-shirt printing further blossomed during the anti-war and hippie trend around the French Revolution of May For example, NO WAR -printed T-shirts were in fashion, and T-shirts dyed with uncolored spots were popular among hippies who were against social orthodoxy. In the 1970s, the T-shirt became a leader of anti-fashion against war, oil prices and youth unemployment. For example, fearless and undaunted fashion such as torn T-shirts and fancy printed T-shirts influenced by rock-n-roll and funky music became the mainstream. In 1975, the I NY T- ejcho@honam.ac.kr 49

51 shirt designed by Milton Glaser was a big hit around the world. In the 1980s, T-shirts with pop-stars pictures on them including Michael Jackson and Madonna earned great popularity. In addition, T-shirts with anti-war, political and environmental protection messages reappeared. Since the 1990s, thanks to the remarkable development of printing technology, rapid growth of new fashion brands and mass production after an increase in investments, a wide variety of printed T-shirts came out. Because of heavy metal and hip-hop culture and the popularity of crop tops, T-shirt-based advertisements and T-shirt design patterns have evolved. The T-shirt is not just an advertisement of product or corporate brand. With a variety of designs, it makes people laugh, make a donation and think of the importance of environment. 3.2 Type of design applied to T-shirt printing First, famous paintings such as masterpieces of Vincent Willem van Gogh and Da Vinci are used. These T-shirts are related with the preference of art in modern times. People like this kind of design because it makes them feel that they own a masterpiece of art. Second, it is a graffiti pattern-printed T-shirt. Inspired by the designs of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring, liberal and improvised drawings, patterns, logs and letters were used. Third, pop art-based designs, like those of Liechtenstein and Andy Warhol, were used. Fourth, character-based designs were used. Walt Disney s character-printed T-shirts in the 1950s were the beginning of this trend. A variety of character-printed T-shirts have been produced annually. Fifth, trompe-l'oeil technique-based designs which create optical illusions were used. Recently, a woman in bikini would be expressed in actual size, or humorous design based on bone structures in x-ray images has been created. Sixth, letters have been used to deliver emotional messages. 3.3 Implied meaning and characteristics of T-shirt printing First, there is the delivery of political messages. In the late 1940s, T-shirts with political messages were first used during the U.S. presidential election campaigns. Since then, they have been used in various political elections. In the 1980s, anti-war and political and environmental message T-shirts were popular. Second, the T-shirt is an expression of identity. It meets modern people s desire to stand out from the crowd and express their own personality. Third, it is a means of entertainment and satire. Some T-shirts make a satirical statement on modern society with messages like This is a designer T-shirt or I m perfectly abnormal. Some T-shirts create an optical illusion with the design of naked body or bone structures in x-ray images and deliver humor. Fourth, there is commercial meaning. Recently, people tend to prefer artistic designs. In fact, art design-printed T- shirts stimulate modern people s desire for high-level culture. Because of masterpiece-based package designs and advertising art, companies have been able to increase sales and improve their corporate image and brand value as well. 50

52 O5 The Design Method for Realization of Volume : Case Study of Workshops with La Cambre-Mode[s] Ju-hee Park, Myung-ock Lee Department of Fashion Design, Samsung Art & Design Institute, Korea The globalization of the fashion industry in South Korea today draws the need of strong strategy for surviving in the fierce competition. One of the key strategies is the bringing up the gifted designers with creativity and insights that encompass many areas. From the late 20th century, the western high fashion has been led by young designers with the intimacy of the street fashion and a desire to take risks. And the educational institutions of the United Kingdom and Belgium have been in the limelight for incubators of such talents who creatively interpret the history and develop the concept. In the situations not having much renowned fashion designers or brands, nurturing creative talents is the most urgent and important task the educational institutions in Korea should solve. In this respect, the research on advanced educations and program exchanges with advanced institutions are needed thus we can devise the latest educational methods. The purpose of this study is to propose progressive way of fashion education in Korea by sharing the process and results of international workshop at SADI conducted by faculties of La Cambre-Mode[s], one of the best fashion educational institutions in Europe. La Cambre-Mode[s] is fashion design department of the Ecole nationale supérieure des arts visuels of La Cambre, a Brussels-based school of art and design, created in 1927 by the famous Belgian artist and architect Henry van de Velde. La Cambre-Mode[s] is less determined by economic logic, develops a more personal and innovative language which makes the school famous for its avant-garde work. The volume created by experimental handiwork and construction to achieve inscription of the body is the core of the school curriculum. The faculty members of La Cambre Mode[s] have been invited by SADI to conduct a yearly workshop for two years. They have proposed students to explore voluminous silhouette and new construction techniques for more creative fashion design and proved it successful ever. The first workshop titled Full Metal Jacket was held on July In this workshop, students experienced a way of creating new volume by assembly of woven techniques using and mixing two identical jackets. The codes of these garments such as collar, pockets and fasteners were used and moved to give a new reading of the volume. Deformities, swelling, narrowing was born from their creativity to develop patterns and graphs articulating the new volume of the jacket. Metal accessories such as studs, eyelets, badges, clips and zips enriched and gave a personal character to their final works. The student s works from this workshop had been exhibiting on annual Modo Parcours 2011 Brussels in last October. The second workshop titled Bag Beauty was held in July In this workshop, students created a tuxedo jacket using plastic tote bags and a dress using men s classical shirt and garment bags. For the jacket, many pieces of zippered plastic tote bags were used and transformed to approach volume and construction with the particularities of that kind of bags such as shapes, sizes, colors, graphics, patchworks and straps. Students explored new forms, solutions and redefinition of tuxedo and tailoring. For the dress, with a classical white shirt for men as a base, the exercise was to combine zenn95@hanmail.net 51

53 white zippered garment bags with the particularities of that kind of bags in a way to define a dress. The contrast of the 2 fabrics and the extra meters of white fabric offered a way to explore movement considering of the men's shirt codes. Those exercises needed to be thinking to match together and the idea how to wear by a real body was really important even though the volume and construction are major points to focus. The final garments were presented at the SADI gallery. The two workshops have been worked out a big turn over for the students and for the faculty members at SADI. We truly enjoyed the whole process and learned different facets of fashion as a form of contemporary expression. Through exercises, students could be led to work on the concrete statements and to develop quite an individual works with personal and innovative language. 52

54 Oral Presentation 2 Classroom 6088 (Hämeentie 135C, 6th floor) Session Author(s) Affiliation Title Chair Convergence Area Fashion Marketing Fashion Production Technology Soon-Young Kim Karen Ka-Leung Moon*, Charlotte Sze- Yeung Lai Wolhee Do Hye Suk Kim*, Yun Ja Nam, Ming Hai Cui Hsueh-Chin Ko*, Chia-Fen Li Seoul National Univ. Seoul National Univ., The Hong Kong Polytechnic Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Seoul National Univ., Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Pingtung Univ. of Science and Technology The Culture Surrounding the Dyeing of Royal Garments in the Latter Part of Korea s Joseon Dynasty Can Environmentalism and Fashionism Co-exist? Wearing Condition and Dissatisfaction with Medical Compression Stocking - Focusing on the Imported Medical Compression Stockings in Korean Market - A Study on Improvements of Infants Denim Slacks Construction method Based on Physical Characteristics and Different Areas of the Body when Wearing - Focusing on 4-year-old Boys - The Research of the Reaction to the Shape of Fashion Design for the Visually Disabled Hsueh-Chin Ko Yong Ju Kim Myung Hee Lee Jung A Song Soonjee Park 53

55 O6 The Culture Surrounding the Dyeing of Royal Garments in the Latter Part of Korea s Joseon Dynasty Soon-Young Kim Department of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea Royal garments worn in the latter half of the Joseon Dynasty in Korea show a magnificent and sophisticated color aesthetic. This study explores the dyes that were used, who used them, and how they were handled during this period in Korean history. Specific questions asked in this study are as follows: First, what kinds of dyes were used to dye royal garments? Second, through what system were the dyes supplied? Third, what techniques were practiced? Finally, who and what departments were concerned with this process? This study was conducted through a literature review, with the main source being the Sangbang Jeongrye, which was published in Other sources, including the Mangi Yoram, the Takji Junjeol and the Diaries of the Royal Secretariat( 承政院日記 ), were also used. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho(gromwell), honghwa(safflower), danmok(redwood), simhwang(turmeric), sambo(arthraxon hispidus (Thunb.) Makino), goehwa(pagoda tree blossom), chija(cape jasmine), and namjong(indigo plant seed). Mordant such as maesil(japanese apricot), hwanghoemok(yellow ash), yeohoe(wild spinach ash), and baekban(alum) were also used with the dyes. Jicho and hwanghoemok were used to dye fabric purple, while honghwa and yeohoe resulted in a deep red. Maesil could be used to create either of these colors.these two colors were most frequently used for royal garments. Second, the sangeuiwon( 尙衣院 ) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the seonhyecheong( 宣惠廳 ) and the hojo( 戶曹 ) who provided revenue to the sangeuiwon through a wongong(regular tribute) and a bokjeong(supplementary tribute). Additionally, if some were found to be insufficient, additional dyes could be provided by the hojo. Every year the hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, more dye was used in royal garments than in commoners clothes in order to obtain a deeper shade of color. Also, dyers tried to get a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk, which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves. Cotton, on the other hand, was very difficult to dye and thus was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace. Finally, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the sangeuiwon s professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo( 內農圃 ) eunuchs were in charge of each palace s indigo crops. soonyoung1@gmail.com 54

56 O7 Can Environmentalism and Fashionism Co-exist? Karen Ka-Leung Moon 1), Charlotte, Sze-Yeung Lai 2) 1) Department of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea 2) Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong Fashion is a unique consumer product comprising four major elements: style, taste, acceptance, and change. Change represents a particularly important element, as fashion becomes interesting to consumers all over the world mainly because of its continuously changing nature. To capture such consumer interest for profit, marketers strive to create the desire for consumption of new designs. This results in a demand for fast fashion, which promotes consumption as something quick, low price, and disposable. Aggressive marketing is the key driver of fast fashion, which becomes a trend of over demand and consequently over supply. However, the rapid growth of fast fashion leads to serious environmental problems. First, fashion products consume a large amount of resources to produce; second, they require lots of effort and energy to take care throughout their entire usage life; and third, they create pollution and loading for the landfill at the end of their life. Theparticularly short product life of fast fashion causes twice the harmful consequences to our planet. In recent decades, serious environmental problems have also generated strong concern by people of different societies. Environmentalism is a broad philosophy, ideology, and social movement regarding the preservation, restoration, and/or improvement of the natural environment. Environmentalism advocates concepts such as sustainability, simplicity, and ecology and attempts to balance relationships between humans and various natural systems. The exact nature of this balance is controversial, and these environmental concerns can be expressed in practice through many different ways, particularly the balance with the pursuance of fashionism. Being fashionable and being environmentally concerned is often considered a direct conflict. Many people believe that fashion leadership implies a desire to maintain newness and practice a form of fashion obsolescence, which demonstrates the opposite of an environmentalist s value. Is this general perception always true? The major objective of our study is to investigate whether consumers attitudes toward the environment are related to their attitude toward fashion. The results from a questionnaire survey conducted among 300 respondents in South Korea show that these two behavioral attitudes can exist side by side. The problem lies in whether we can design and produce products that can combine the elements of environmentalism and fashionism appropriately. tcmoonkl@snu.ac.kr 55

57 O8 Wearing Condition and Dissatisfaction with Medical Compression Stocking - Focusing on the Imported Medical Compression Stockings in Korean Market Wolhee Do Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chonnam National University, Korea The medical function of graduated compression stockings have been widely used for the prophylaxis and treatment of venous diseases like varicose veins, deep-vein thrombosis, recurrence of leg ulcelation, and the control of lymphoedema.the population of patients with varicose veins has increased from 11,902 to 22,039 in the past five years(2005~2009) in Korea. The medical compression stockings available in Korean market are all foreign goods. The purpose of this research is to analyse the imported medical compression stockings in Korean market for the development of the medical compression stocking for Korean patients. In order to compile information about wearing condition and dissatisfaction with current medical compression stockings in Korean market, questionnaire was administered. The research subjects were male and female, over 20 years old, living in Gwangju, and patients with varicose veins. The questionnaire was circulated for two months from September ~ October 2011 through Chonnam National University Hospital in Gwangju. A total of 200 questionnaires were distributed and 64 questionnaires were returned as souces for data analysis. The data were analyzed using the descriptive statistics value of frequencies and percentile value and so on by means of the SPSS 17.0program. The results of this study were as follows:in the general facts about the research subjects, the 60's age group is the largest (26.6%), followed by the 50's group (23.4%), the 70's group (17.2%),the 40's group (15.6%),the 30's group (7.8%),and the 20's with 9.4%. When looking into the type of medical compression stockings they had, results indicate that 48.4% has a pantyhose type, a thigh-high type was 43.8%, a knee-high 25%. Evidently pantyhose type and thigh-high type are the highly preferred items of imported medical compression stockings. To the questions concerning wearing periods of medical compression stockings, 37.5% of respondents said within three months, whereas 10.9% of respondents said over three years. Also 20.3% answered six months to one year, followed by from three months to six months (14.1%), from one year to two years(3.1%). These results demonstrate that medical compression stockings were mainly used as postoperative treatment in short period of time. In the frequency of donning medical compression stockings, 50% of respondents said 'ten hours a day' and 37.5% of respondents said'eight hours a day'. In terms of the recognitionof compression class, 90.6% of respondents answered we don t know compression class of medical compression stockings. This results show that Korean patients are passive according to the doctor's choice when buying medical compression stockings. The lack of recognition of compression class of the patients caused dissatisfaction. More specifically, 48.6% of total respondents were dissatisfied with compression class and sizing system of imported medical compression stockings. Consequently, new sizing system forkorean patients convenience is needed. whdo@chonnam.ac.kr 56

58 O9 A Study on Improvements of Infants Denim Slacks Construction method Based on Physical Characteristics and Different Areasof the Body when Wearing - Focusing on 4-year-old Boys - Hye Suk Kim 1), Yun Ja Nam 2), Ming Hai Cui 3) 1) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea 2) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University, Korea 3) Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, China Infants have unique physical characteristics that are different from adults and have a growth variable. Therefore, there is a need to separately study infants body types and clothing sizes. However, most studies have focused on adult subjects (Kim, S.Y. & Nam, Y.J., 2009). In addition, infants and children s clothing construction methods have been traced over adults in numerous cases, and there are many methods without distinguishing between infants and children. Therefore, it is required to analyze infants physical characteristics compared to other ages, and to understand something significant to report when infants wear their clothes. The wearing characteristics would be figured out through investigating positions and looseness of different areas of the body based on actual fitting. As infants are known to wear denim slacks frequently as daily wear, conducting a study on how denim slacks are worn by infants, and understanding the characteristics of different areas of the body when infants wear denim slacks which reflect the unique physical characteristics of infants, would be a significant task. The goal of this study is to propose improvements of infants denim slacks construction method based on infants physical characteristics and different areas of the body when actually wearing denim slacks, focusing on 4-year-old boys. As the method of this study, survey on the actual condition of 47 denim slacks worn by 9 4-year-old boys in the past year was conducted. The denim slacks were divided into the following categories in this study, according to fit: skinny slacks, leggings, straight slacks, baggy slacks and loose slacks. Then, the anthropometric measurements of the infants were taken, and then the clothing measurements of areas worn were measured. The body waist to slacks waist length of each slacks (how low the wearer wears the slacks, meaning the length of the slacks waistline from the navel when worn) was applied to calculate the difference between clothing and body for areas worn and the characteristics of areas worn were analyzed through technical statistics. Then, in order to find out the relationship between the characteristics of areas worn and the physical characteristics of the lower body, the lower body indexes of 4-year-old boys and male on the other ages were comparatively analyzed through technical statistics based on average measurements. Lastly, improvements of infants slacks construction method that reflect the physical characteristics of the lower body and the characteristics of areas worn were proposed. 1. As the results, the characteristics of areas worn can largely be divided into vertical position of area worn and looseness of girth of area worn. Strong characteristics of the areas worn in terms of vertical position of the area worn are first, yunja@snu.ac.kr 57

59 that the body waist to slacks waist length is 2.4 cm on average, and the difference goes up to 6.4 cm. Second, the clothing hip girth line for pattern making is actually worn 5.2 cm lower than the body hip girth line on average, and body hip girth line is at the 0.42 point of clothing crotch length. Third, there is a 0.30 cm difference between the clothing crotch length and the body mid-thigh girth line on average. The crotch is placed at a similar point for all slacks lower than the body mid-thigh girth line. Fourth, the body knee girth line is at the 1/2 point of the slacks length. Fifth, there is a 2.4 cm difference, comparing between the position of the slacks length and the body outside leg length, and the difference goes up to 16.6 cm. This indicates there is a need to set slacks length that considers infants body outside leg length. Major characteristics of areas worn in terms of the looseness of girth of area worn are first, that the clothing girth of each area was worn much larger than the body girth of the area at times. Second, most infants slacks have elastic bands, and the elastic waist girth (mean=-3.96cm) is usually smaller than the body waist girth, and even apply pressure to the waistline in extreme cases. Third, the difference between the elastic waist girth (mean=-3.96 cm) and pattern waist girth (mean=11.10 cm) is a great difference of cm on average. Fourth, the slacks have a small difference between the pattern waist girth and the pattern hip girth. 2. The physical characteristics of the lower body of infants compared to other ages can largely be divided into lower body curves and lower body proportion. The lower body curves aspect related to wearing children s denim slacks, thus the girth width thickness ration of waist/hip, and stomach/hip, is found to have few curves in the case of infants. This is in tune with the result that showed a small difference between pattem body waist girth and pattern hip girth when measuring clothing. In terms of lower body proportion, first, infants have the lowest waist height/stature ratio and crotch length/height ratio of the compared subjects, showing that infants have shortest lower bodies. Second, infants have the longest knee height/waist height ratio, 0.47, which supports that the body knee girth line is at the 1/2 point of the slacks length. Third, there is a small difference between the crotch height and mid-thigh height, only 4.7 cm for 4-year-old boys. It can therefore be interpreted that the clothing crotch length line including looseness and body mid-thigh girth line are similar on average, and the clothing crotch length is placed below the body mid-thigh girth at times. An examination of the body waist to mid-thigh length/body crotch length ratio shows that infants have the smallest ratio, so caution is required when setting clothing crotch length and clothing total crotch length for clothing design. Fourth, infants have the slightly smallest ratio, body hip length/body crotch length ratio, and the evaluation can be made that the body hip girth level is higher than the pattern hip girth level for infants when slacks are worn because infants have a more protruded stomach than other ages and wear slacks lower because of the pressure applied with the elastic waist. 3. Improvements of infants slacks construction method from the physical characteristics of the lower body and the characteristics of areas worn were proposed. Considerations of the clothing length items when making pattern are first, that the body waist to slacks waist length should be applied. Second, the clothing hip girth level should be matched to the body hip girth level that means actual wearing area. Third, caution is required to set the clothing crotch length and the clothing total crotch length. Fourth, the clothing knee girth level should be matched to the body knee girth level based on actual fitting. Lastly, slack length should be tuned to actual body outside leg length. As considerations of the clothing girth items, first, average value of looseness of girth responding to actual wearing area can be utilized, and looseness of girth according to fit type of slacks can be used by extension. Second, infants slacks should be designed considering both the elastic waist girth and the 58

60 pattern waist girth separately. Following figures based on actual fitting can be applied to pattern making according to type of the slacks. Table 7.Figures applied to pattern making according to type of the slacks Classification items Mean Skinny Straight Baggy Loose Leggings slacks slacks slacks slacks Slacks waistline length (cm) Clothing waist to hip length/clothing crotch length ratio Clothing length items Clothing girth items Looseness of clothing crotch length (cm) Clothing waist to knee length/slacks length ratio Looseness slacks length (cm) Looseness of girth of each area (cm) Looseness of pattern waist girth (cm) Looseness of elastic waist girth (cm) ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Further research is required on the fit satisfaction Because the scope of this research is just concerning the positions and looseness coming over between clothing and body area. Improvements of infants denim slacks construction methods proposed in this study can be applied to clothing design, and establishment of slacks measurement methods based on actual fittings can aid standardization of clothing product measurement that fit size standards. The results are also expected to improved predictability of size and fit appropriateness when consumers purchase clothes. Acknowledgments This work was supported by the Standardized Technology Development Project Establishment of Digital Human and Apparel Product Standards Using IT and Fashion Convergence Technology (B ) funded by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy in South Korea. 59

61 O10 The Research of the Reaction to the Shape of Fashion Design for the Visually Disabled Hsueh-Chin Ko, Chia-Fen LI National Pingtung University of Science and Technology, Taiwan The human eyes can see the shape and color of the world by light, but fashion designers create ever-changing historical costumes by the visual sense of eyes and become the main necessities of human's life. However, the visually disabled can only rely on imagination, touch and sound to feel everything, therefore, to meeting of the visually disabled innermost feeling style of clothing, has become the purpose of this research. Even the blind seeing less color than the external world, they can still have the colorful life Originated by Chen Jia Xun(TPTS reporter)< Art of Heart Experience> The famous painter Pablo Picasso painted in 1903 <The Blind Man's Meal> pointed out that artists should have their eyes put out to make them see better, suggesting that rather than focusing on the outer, material world, artists should explore their reality of thoughts and feeling. IT proves that the visually disabled also have the right to enjoy the ever-changing costumes to satisfy their inner feeling. Thus, in this study, the clothing creation is the main design concept and we used Clothing designed to explore and design the creative fashion which visually disabled expect. The method of this study is to grasp the visually impaired in the inner feeling to see the theme of the costumes feel, visually impaired, tactile feeling, hearing, and imagine the feelings of the literature collection and analysis. The results of the literature analysis set as a reference creation method, set the interview questionnaire, analysis of the published production of the visually disabled, set the creative theme, setting material, pattern making, the evaluation of the final production which to be the main purpose of this research. To perform the main conclusions of the research methods as below: 1. Even the visually disabled haven't seen anything, but they can also feel everything by touch, hearing or other sensory-assisted. 2. The visually disabled respondents in an interview can explicitly informed of their feelings; the young visually disabled are at the age of puberty, they will more concerned about appearance and more interested to care about clothing trends. 3. In addition to color outside the conditions, the visually disabled can clearly distinguish the differences in clothing, even if we put slightly decorations on the clothing, it also can lead them to satisfy and be confident. After the experimental results from touching the clothing materials by the visually disabled, we can know that lace shirring loop,pressing straight live-fold, spot bead decoration, etc, are with the experimental results are consistent with the hypothesis, it prove that the decoration on the clothing can satisfy the visually disabled to clothing shape. In particular, is to enable the visually disabled to touch the same kind of fabric swatches weave and different lace fabrics, the result shows that the visually disabled can distinguish different techniques to produce the difference of beauty, this description that the visually impaired, even if they are blind, they also can have the same aesthetic as healthy people. 4. After the visually disabled touched this design production, the results reveal that they can feel the subtle differences, the decorative clothing that makes them feel the gorgeous and meticulous of the clothes, and imagines that it is as a beautiful dress. As the color, they favor of their own color preferences. Especially, we can make them feels a sense of satisfaction and happiness, it has already proved that our creative rationality is feasible. 5. If this study established the inner feeling of the visually disabled to feel of clothing design 60

62 patterns and according to their feelings as a starting, we believe the visually disabled who can enjoy the life of clothing to meet the inner preferences, and also enjoy the ever-changing costumes to meet their own inner feelings. In the future, if we use this research method as a foundation, to training the visually disabled ability, to learn fashion design it could increase job of opportunities. Key Words: Visually disabled Touch Techniques Design Figure: visually disabled of questionnaire Picture: The design work strong confidence 7% 19% other 4% Happiness 37% Happiness satisfaction confidence strong other grace and eleganceformal sense 19% 2% ddecorated soft 22% modeling 29% gorgeous delicate 28% modeling gorgeous delicate ddecorated soft grace and elegance formal sense satisfaction 33% 61

63 Poster Session Venue: YLÄLÄMPIÖ & The hall of the 6th floor in the department of fashion and textile Session 1 (S1-S11): Textile material, Textile care and management Author(s) Affiliation Title S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 S9 S10 S11 Hyun Sook Bae Younsook Shin, Kyunghee Son, Dong-Il Yoo Younsook Shin, Kyunghee Son, Dong-Il Yoo SuYoung Ha, Jeong Dae Jang Eui Kyung Roh, Kyung Wha Oh Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee, Myungeun Lee, Sangji Han, Kyunghyun Lee, Gilsoo Cho Jeong Sook Lee, Joo Hyun Park Tae-Gyou Kim, Oh-Kyung Kwon, Sun-Hwa Park, Chong Hee Yun, Do-Hyun Lee, Chae Keun Lim Ju Youn Kwon, Kyung-Suk Lee, Sun-Hwa Kim, Do Hee Kim, Hye-Seon Chae, Hyo-Cher Kim SeoHyo Kim, Chang Kyu Park, Joonseok Koh, Ho Sun Lim Changwon National Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Chonnam National Univ. Pusan National Univ. Chung-Ang Univ. Chungnam National Univ. Yonsei Univ. Gyeongsang National Univ. Daegu Arts Univ., BSG Co., Ltd, Korea Dyeing Technology Center, Defense Agency for Technology and Quality National Academy of Agricultural Science, Sunchon National Univ. Konkuk Univ., i-fashionbiz Center The Mechanical Properties of Working Clothes Material Considering Working Process in Shipbuilding Industry Aroma Finishing on Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Thermo-regulating Properties of Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Treated with PCM Microcapsules Preparation and Practicality of Persimmon Extract Powder Dye Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Man-made Leather according to Use Functionality of Fabric Dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract (Part II) - Ultra Violet Blocking and Deoderization - Snowflake Pattern Meets Textile/Fashion with Sensibility Effects of Combination-Natural Dyeing on the Physical Properties and Functionality of Eco-friendly Fabrics (1) - Dyeability of Combination-dyed Fabrics with the Bark of Ash and Japanese Pagoda Tree Extracts Thermal Physiological Responses of Wearing Tank Driver s Clothing A Preliminary Survey of the Actual Conditions of Wearing Clothing during Working Outdoors Study on Drapability and Mechanical Properties of Fabric Session 2 (D1-D13): Aesthetic/Fashion design, Textile design, History Author(s) Affiliation Title D1 Haesook Kwon Sangmyung Univ. Domestic Researches of Creativity Techniques in Design D2 Soon Ja Kim Sangmyung Univ. Characteristics and Meanings of Persona-oriented Expression in Contemporary Fashion Design 62

64 D3 Suk-Hyang Yang Sunchon National Univ. Development of Designs for Fashion Cultural Goods Applied the Korean Traditional Knot D4 Eun Kyung Lee Daejeon Univ. A Study on Fashion Display Design using Combine Technique D5 D6 Chil Soon Kim, Heesoon Yang Youngsoo Yi- Chang Kyung Hee Univ. The German Archaeological Institute The Preferred White & Color Dress Designs and Textiles for Korean Women s Wedding Occasion The Study on the Form of Scythian Trousers D7 Kyung Hee Choi Honam Univ. A Study on Upcycling Design in Fashion Industry D8 Youn Soon Lee Yeungnam Univ. D9 Mi-Jeong Kwon Pusan National Univ. A Study on Proposals of Preservations and Applications of Wedding Gyubang Crafts A Study on the Lasa Aesthetics in Musical Film Costume of Korea and India - Focused on the <The Fox Family> and <Dancing Muthu> - D10 Jeom-Soon Yoon Honam Univ. A Study on Chinese Paintings Represented in Modern Fashion D11 D12 Sun Young Kim Sun Young Kim Sunchon National Univ. Sunchon National Univ. A Study of the Scarf Design Combined with Op Art and Geometrical Pattern of Traditional Ddeoksal Trend and Aesthetic Value of Opening as Open Space Shown in the Modern Fashion D13 Sukhee Lee Honam Univ. A Study on Fashion Design Applying Chinese Armors Session 3 (C1-C17): Fashion Production Technology Author(s) Affiliation Title C1 C2 C3 In Hwa Kim, Yun Ja Nam, Sung Min Kim Chil Soon Kim, Kyung Jin Lee, Yusun Lee Joohyun Lee, Yun Ja Nam Seoul National Univ., Chonnam National Univ. Kyung Hee Univ., Sposabella, Fashion In Trend Seoul National Univ. Development of Men s Slacks Pattern Drafting Method and Automatic Pattern Drafting Program for MTM Production Light Weight Velvet Wedding Dress Development to fit Chinese Women s Taste through Fashion Stream Collaboration Development of Pattern for Combat Uniform C4 Sooim Rha Sangmyung Univ. A Study on Techniques of 3-D Draping C5 C6 Wolhee Do Myunghee Lee Chonnam National Univ. Pukyong National Univ. Prediction of Clothing Formability of Men's Active Sports Jacket from Mechanical Properties Development of One-cut Dress with Cowl Design C7 Jungsoon Lee, Jeongmee Kim Sangmyung Univ. Pukyong National Univ. Research on the Actual Condition of Adult-male Products for Urinary Incontinence on Market C8 C9 C10 C11 C12 Dong-Hyun Kim, Jeong-ah Jang Jung-il Jun. Kueng-Mi Choi, Young-Sil Ryu, Sun-Mi Park Kueng-Mi Choi, Jung-il Jun, Taeko Hirokawa Hyun-Jung Hwang, Jung-il Jun, Kueng-Mi Choi Gumhwa Kim, Keiko Hiraragi, Yoshiko Yanagida, Pusan National Univ. FiTenBODY Co. Ltd., Dong Seoul Col.lege, Konkuk Univ. Dong Seoul Col.lege, FiTenBODY Co. Ltd., Bunka Gakuen Univ. FiTenBODY Co. Ltd, Dong Seoul Col.lege, Kunkuk Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ. The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferences for Men s Slim-fit Dress Shirts Development of Standard Body Type Virtual Models for Korean Men and Women in their Twenties and Thirties Development of a Pattern Design Algorithm for Personalized Mass- Customization Patterns for Obese Preteen Boys Categorization of School Uniform Designs for Automatic Pattern Search Focusing on Boys Summer Uniforms- A Study on Change of the Seeing and Hearing Mouth Nose of the Period of Growth Boy and Girl Using 3D Data 63

65 C13 Taeko Hirokawa Young-Sil Ryu, Jung-il Jun, Kueng-Mi Choi, Sun-Mi Park Graduate School FiTenBODY Co., Ltd. 1), Dong Seoul Coliege, Konkuk Univ. C14 Sun-Mi Park Konkuk University C15 Taeko Hirokawa, Gumhwa Kim, Akemi Isozaki, YoshikoYanagida, Keiko Hiraragi Bunka Gakuen Univ. Graduate School, KunKuk Univ., Bunka Gakuen Univ. C16 Young Lim Choi Daegu Univ. Development of a Virtual Fitting Model and Dummy for the Men s Apparel Industry Using 3D Human Body Modeling Technology A Study on the Perceived Body Shape and Clothing Purchase Criteria Shape Characteristics of Elderly Women in Japan and Korea Silver Industry -Using the 3D Human Body Measurement Data- Development of Dress Shirts Sizing System for Mass Customization C17 Young Lim Choi Daegu Univ. Size Specifications for Females Aged Between 7 and 18 Session 4 (M1-M13): Fashion marketing Author(s) Affiliation Title M1 Hyun Min Kong Kyung Hee Univ. M2 Yongju Kim Hansung Univ. A Case Study on Current SPA Brands (Fast Fashion) Waste Issues and Possible Future Directions Analysis of QR Code Application of Korean Fashion Firms Focused Fashion Ads in Korean Fashion Magazines - M3 Hanna Kim Chungnam National Univ. The Perceived Value of Eco-friendly Apparel Consumption : The Moderating Effect of Brand Familiarity M4 M5 M6 Soo-Kyoung Ahn, Eun-Jeong Ryou Eun hah Wee, Woo Mi Park Sae-eun Lee, Yuri Lee, Jin Woo Choi Changwon National Univ. Chonnam national Univ., Gwangju Univ. Seoul National Univ. M7 Yongju Kim Hansung Univ. The Effect of Clothing Consumption Value on the Clothing Disposal Behavior The Effects of Appearance Concern on the Interpersonal Relationships of Adolescents Adoption of New Technological Product as Fashion Product in the Social Context Market Growth and Import Penetration of Watch Market in Korea since the year 2002 M8 M9 M10 M11 Daegeun Jun Eun Joo Park, Shin Young Park Jieun Jung, Ho Jung Choo, Ha Kyung Lee Sangwoo Seo, Ho Jung Choo, Ha Kyung Lee Andong National Univ. Dong-A Univ. Seoul National Univ. Yerigo Inc., Seoul National Univ. M12 Yi Chang Yang Shih Chien Univ. Effects of the Shopping Orientation on the Evaluative Criteria of Bag Flow and E-impulse Buying for Fashion Products The Effects of Word of Mouth regarding Fashion Products in Mobile Social Networking Services Advertisement/PR Activities of Online Fashion Shopping-malls & Factors to Attract Consumers by Each Type of Shopping-mall Consumer Values: The Development of Marketing Strategies for Luxury Fashion Brands M13 Eun Joo Park Dong-A Univ. Product Attributes and E-impulse Buying for Apparel Products 64

66 2012 FDAI in Helsinki Poster Presentations YLÄ LÄ MPIÖ & The hall of the 6 th floor in the department of fashion and textile Session 1(Session S) Textile material, Textile care and management Session 2(Session D) Aesthetic/Fashion design, Textile design, History Session 3(Session C) Clothing construction, Apparel production Session 4(Session M) Fashion marketing 65

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68 S1 The Mechanical Properties of Working Clothes Material Considering Working Process in Shipbuilding Industry Hyun Sook Bae Department of Clothing & Textiles, Changwon National University, Korea Working environment factors which have an effect on worker s safety and operation efficiency by environment conditions composing of physical, chemical, biological and mechanical factors cause industrial accident and vocational diseases. And also, worker s health and productivity of labor are influenced by working conditions which are ergonomic factors. However, even though workplaces are same, working environment conditions depend on the working type and process, as the harmful factors are increased, the more working processes are complicate, it is very important to wear working clothes which are appropriate for the working process, the more industry structure is complex. Industrial accident rate of shipbuilding industry in 2011 is 1.08% and it is 1.7 times comparing with that of whole industry, working process such as assembling and processing of equipment material is very complicate, and working environment are very poor as most of them are made outdoor. Worker s health is connected directly to productivity of the enterprise and society, which is close to harmful working environment and processing, as a most adjacent surrounding, the study on working clothes should be surely performed as part of systematic management measures for industrial safety of workers. Thus the study examines the mechanical properties of working clothes material by test weaving and designed based on preference and actual wearing. The working clothes materials were test weaving of PET/cotton blended yarn fabric, most widely used for working clothes by spring/fall and winter clothes. Here, PET is weaved by quick drying coolmax yarn, and two-bath dyeing is applied with disperse dye and reactive dye. And then it is compared with the existing clothes materials after antistatic finishing, water repellent finishing, and wet finishing. The mechanical properties were measured for objective evaluation of working clothes materials and total hand value(thv) was calculated using transformation equation after getting hand value The whole processing was exposed to harmful factors because most processing of shipbuilding industry inflict injury on person, and it was found that ergonomic factor such as upper and lower body and twisting posture during working are also dangerous. Main working processes in shipbuilding industry are fit up, welding, grinding and painting, according to previous research, more than 50% of workers wore ordinary working clothes instead of industrial protective clothes. Especially, fit up processing is temporarily welding operation so that it can weld subsidiary material on marking place by drawing before real welding, exposing harmful material is similar to welding process, but most workers wore ordinary working clothes. According to this, it was found that KOSHI value of materials by test weaving became small and softened for both between-season wears and winter cloths comparing with existing working cloth. All NUMERI values was increased, especially that of winter cloth material by test weaving was greatly increased and smoothed. All FUKURAMI value showing degree of softness and volume touch was also increased. In conclusion, it showed that result for hand value assessment were advanced because all the THV value of working clothes material than existing one were increased. hshae@changwon.ac.kr 67

69 S2 Aroma Finishing on Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Younsook Shin 1), Kyunghee Son 2), Dong-Il Yoo 2) 1) Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chonnam National University, Korea 2) Department of Polymer and Fiber System Engineering, Chonnam National University, Korea This study aimed to evaluate the long-term efficacy of functional finishing onto dyed cotton fabric by combined analyses. The cotton fabric was dyed with natural indigo obtained from polygonum tintorium and subsequently padded with melamine-formaldehyde microcapsule containing essential oil. For the stability of microcapsules oncotton fabric, softener was treated at the same (one-step) or sequential (two-step) padding bath. All the fabricsamples were evaluated from the methods such as dye uptake, add-on, surface observation, H (hue) V (value) / C (chroma) color coordinates, color difference, GC/MS analysis and human perception test. Microcapsule treatment was also assessed by stiffness, air permeability, the durability to ironing, rubbing, laundering, and irradiation.add-on and K/S value of dyed fabrics were not changedwith the treatment condition. ButH of the dyed fabrics shifted to bluish shade slightly by microcapsule and softener treatment.softener treatment was not helpful to the fabric performance such as softness or air permeability. All the colorfastness ratings were above 4/5 and the color difference was within the acceptablerange of 1.62~2.08. GC/MS analysis confirmed that bornyl acetate, aroma component ofessential oil,was continuously released for the microcapsule-treated fabric (D/MC) stored more than 2 years. Judges of human perception test evaluated that aroma release was very good to 20 laundering cycles and storage time up to 2.5 years for all the samples except for D/MC/S5 (two-step). On durability tests, microcapsules on cotton fabric were stable to laundering, rubbing, ironing, and irradiation. yshin@chonnam.ac.kr 68

70 S3 Thermo-regulating Properties of Natural Dyed Cotton Fabric Treated with PCM Microcapsules Younsook Shin 1), Kyunghee Son 2), Dong-Il Yoo 2) 1) Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chonnam National University, Korea 2) Department of Polymer and Fiber System Engineering, Chonnam National University, Korea The objective of this study was to develop natural dyed fabrics with thermo-regulating properties. Microcapsules(MCs) containing n-octadecane and n-eicosane were applied to the natural indigo-dyed cottonfabrics using the dot-screen printing method. A 50/50 mixture of the two MCs was also applied. DSC analysis was performed to measure the heat capacity of PCM microcapsule treated fabrics.at similarloading amounts for the microcapsules, the fabrics were capable of absorbing 18.66, 14.80, and J g 1of latent heat for the n-eicosane MCs, the n-octadecane MCs, and the mixture of the two MCs, respectively. After 20 laundering cycles, about 94% of the latent heat was retained. The color of the fabrics changednegligibly with color difference (_E*) ranged after MCs treatment and ranged after20 launderings. The latent heat was retained 70 89% after rubbing tests and 92 96% after ironing testsusing a cover fabric in damp condition. Human-Clothing-Environment(HCE) simulator was used for evaluating temperature change in microclimate existing between inner layer and thermo-regulating fabric layer. At high temperature, 38, heat absorbing capacity was decreased in the order of the n-eicosane MCs, the n-octadecane MCs, and the mixture of the two MCs. It was confirmed that mixture of two microcapsules was less effective than single type of microcapsule. After 20 launderings, heat absorbing capacity decreased in the order of the n-octadecane MCs, and the mixture of the two MCs, the n-eicosane MCs. yshin@chonnam.ac.kr 69

71 S4 Preparation and Practicality of Persimmon Extract Powder Dye Su Young Ha, Jeong Dae Jang Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Pusan National University, Korea The content of persimmon tannin varies based on the origin and time of production, and the juice and storage conditions of the persimmon extract, hence it could to be difficult to reproduce consistent products. Also, there is the difficulty of storage, transportation, and distribution with the occurrence of toxic gases based on natural fermentation. Accordingly, there is the desperate need of powdering persimmon extract regarding the industrialization that includes distribution and reproduction. The information of alkaline color development was used to produce alkaline based persimmon extract powder dye and the powder dye was used to produce persimmon extract dye. The focus was put on practicality by examining the characteristics of solubility of dye, color development and dyeing quality, mordant properties, durability against water washing and screen printing of the practicality of the powder dye. All powder samples lacked solubility, just as all standard powder dyes, and displayed hardened texture, as a common restriction of persimmon extract, however, the problem of solubility was resolved by setting the dyeing conditions by wetting the dye with alcohol in advance and dissolving in warm water (50~60 C). Furthermore, the problem of hardened texture upon color development was solved by converting the persimmon extract or the natural problems of persimmon extract to alkaline to obtain deep color and soft texture. Accordingly, its practicality was judged as being sufficient. Color development was good in samples that had no or low effect of alkaline, and samples that had alkaline effects displayed easy early color development, to be advantageous in the process of technical shape. The results of evaluating the characteristics of screen printing displayed the powder sample to display easy adjustment of concentration, good color development and characteristics of screen printing. jdjang@pusan.ac.kr 70

72 S5 Subjective and Objective Evaluation of Man-made Leather according to Use Eui Kyung Roh 1), Kyung Wha Oh 2) 1) The Research Institute of Korean Education, Chung-Ang University, Korea 2) Dept. Home Econmics Education, Chung-Ang University, Korea The environmental movement and animal protection groups have boycotted the manufacturer and use of leather goods, with Europe leading the way. Man-made leather has led to a revolution in world markets because it provides an alternative to leather. Man-made leather can be used to make highquality leather products, and it can be made of various colors. Man-made leather also exhibits excellent durability, is easy to care for and finish, and goods can be produced on a mass production basis. In addition, it is cheap, soft, and luxurious. However the wide range of uses of man-made leather, there has been few subjective and objective evaluations of this material for various uses. Therefore, this study aims to assessthe subjective hand and objective hand and to analyze the relationship between the subjective hand and objective hand according to use. An additional goal is to provide basic information that can be used to determine how best to utilize man-made leather. Man-made leathers used for various goods on the market were selected. Black man-made leather was used to minimize the effect of color. Two types of man-made leather were selected: suede (S), Polyurethane -coated leather (PU). Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in the fashion and the textile industry assessed 33 different types of black man-made leather including suede, foil-patterned suede, and polyurethane -coated leather, They answered questions relating to hand and preferences for different types of man-made leather for various goods (clothes: jacket, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the basis of hand. In order to measure fabric handle objectively in scope of the research, tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties, thickness and weight of the fabrics were tested by KES-FB system. Factor analysis, frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan s multiple range test, correlation analysis, and multiple regression analysis were carried out using SPSS 12.0 for windows. Five subjective hand factors described the characteristics of the leather: thickness, fullness/softness, surface contour, stickiness, and elasticity. The leather type associated with the manufacturing method was relevant for the hands, which dictated preferences regarding the material s use. Fullness/softness was the most valued variable for suede, and the thickness and the elasticity were the most valued parameters for the PU-type leather. Suede was a more favorable material for clothing than for use in boots, bag, shoes, furniture, and purse. On the other hand, bags made of PU were favored, but clothing made of PU was disliked. The cozy and smooth properties of suede were preferred for purses, bags, boots and furniture; the thin and smooth nature of PU type material was favored for clothing, the elasticity of that for shoes and furniture, the sticking of that was not for boots, the smoothness and elasticity of that for furniture. The preferences for clothing and furniture of suede type were related to compressibility, and the preferences for the other items were associated with resilience. The thickness of PU-type clothes affected the preference, and the preference of the other items was influenced by resilience. * This work was supported by the National Research Foundation of Korea(NRF) grant funded by the Korea government(mest) (No ). imbesttt@naver.com 71

73 S6 Functionality of Fabric dyed with Juniperus Chinensis Extract (Part II) -Ultra Violet Blocking and Deoderization- Ki Yeon Nam, Jung Soon Lee Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam National University, Korea Abstract The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of the ultra violet blocking and deodorization of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract. Juniperus chinensis heartwood was extracted by hot water and methanol. Dried and concentrated extracts powder was used as dye material. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with 0.5% & 1% dye concentrations for 30 min at a liquor ratio 50:1, and dyeing temperature 60, 80. Dyeing solution of hot water extract and methanol extract was distilled water (100%) and ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture respectively. Ultra violet blocking was evaluated by KS K 0850:2009 and deodorization was evaluated by KS I 2218:2009. In the case of ultra violet blocking, ultraviolet-cut ability of cotton and silk fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts were improved. Silk fabrics showed comparatively higher effect than cotton fabrics, because UV-blocking rate was increased with the dye uptake and dye uptake of silk was higher thanthe cotton. For the deodorization, deodorant ability of cotton and silk fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts were improved. Keywords: Juniperus chinensis heartwood, Ultraviolet-cut ability, Deodorant ability, Dye uptake. I. Introduction` Natural dye has been used along with human history. From the experiences of life, human produced color and have used it [1]. Sources of natural dyes can be easily found in nature. Natural dyes are derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant roots, berries, bark, leaves, wood and other organic sources. Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes for their pure natural colors to show the subtle charm. The pigments from the plants were not only used for dyeing the fabrics but also for the food. Synthetic dyestuff was invented by Perkins in 1956 and natural dyeing had seemed to be dissipated due to some disadvantages it had such as the restriction of time and the uncertainty of reproduction. Nevertheless, this situation has been reversed recently trial and error due to some problems that have incurred over the past years with the production of synthesis dyes [2]. However, in recent years, retro and eco-friendly life became hot issue, and green consumer requires green products. Textiles and clothing consumers have been more worried about health and environmental impacts synthetic dyes in manufacturing. And also the interest in natural dyeing has been increased, and there is a growing demand for products that use natural dyes and a lot of research and studies research efforts have been tried to solve the problem of weakness and improve the quality of natural dyes. In addition, the functionality of natural dyed fabrics has been tried on a lot of research. The representative examples for the functionality of natural dyed fabrics are antimicrobial and antifungal property, deodorization, ultraviolet-cut ability. Juniper heartwood extracts contain tannins jungsoon@cnu.ac.kr 72

74 and terpenes. The fabrics dyed with distilled water extracts of juniper heartwood represent yellowish brown and the fabrics using the methanol extract represents red-purple[3,4]. Through many studies, Juniper Chinensis extracts revealed high antimicrobial activity and Antioxidative effects [5-10]. However, the experiments on the functionality of the dyed fabrics cannot be found outstanding. And in the previews study, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis extract showed excellent antibacterial. The purpose of this study is to investigate ultra violet blocking and deodorization of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract. II. Experimental Cotton and silk fabrics used in the experimental are listed in <Table 1>. Used Juniperus chinensis heartwood for the experiment was imported from USA. Dyeing and conditions are listed in <Table 2>. Juniperus chinensis heartwood was extracted by hot water and methanol. Evaporated under vacumm and concentrated extract powder was used as dye material. Table 1. Characteristics of cotton and silk fabrics for dyeing Fabric Warp Fineness Weft Weight (g/m 2 ) Thickness (mm) Density warp weft (5cm 2 ) Cotton 30Nec 30Nec 125±5 0.29± Silk 53denier 53denier 53±2 0.12± ±2.4 Table 2. Dyeing conditions Dye Conc. (%, o.w.b) Time (min) Temperature ( ) Dyeing solution Liquor ratio Hot water extract 0.5, Distilled water (100%) 1:50 Methanol extract 0.5, Ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture 1:30 Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with 0.5% & 1% dye concentrations for 30 min at a liquor ratio 50:1, and dyeing temperature 60, 80. Dyeing solution of hot water extract and methanol extract was distilled water (100%) and ethanol (20%) + distilled water (80%) mixture respectively. Ultra violet blocking was evaluated under the condition in <Table 3> with UV-VIS NIR SPECTRO PHOTOMETER (VARIAN. CARY 5000) by KS K 0850:2009 and deodorization was evaluated under the condition in <Table 4> by KS I 2218:

75 Table 3. Ultraviolet-cut ability test conditions wavelength range Wavelength interval Measurement Measure light source UV-R: 290nm~400nm UV-A: 315nm~400nm UV-B: 290nm~315nm 5nm 0/d way CIE-D65 UV-blocking rate (%): UV transmittance Table 4. Deodorant property test conditions Gas Fabric size Gas bag size (gas amount) Measuring time Initial gas concentration Ammonia 10cm 10cm 5L (3L) After over 2 hr. 100 ppm Deodorant rate= [(Cb Cs) / Cb] X Cb: BLANK, gas concentration remaining in experimental bag after over two hours - Cs: Fabrics, gas concentration remaining in experimental bag after over two hours III. Results and Discussion The ultraviolet radiation band consists of three regions: UV-A ( nm), UV-B ( nm), and UV-C ( nm). UV-C does not reach the earth's surface because it is absorbed by the stratospheric ozone in the earth's atmosphere. Exposure to UV-A has been shown to decrease the immunological response of skin cells and produces the signs of aging. Exposure to UV-B causes erythema and is believed to cause skin cancer As a result of the test, UV-A and UV-B blocking rates of untreated cotton are 71.8% and 82.1% each. And silk fabrics are 58% and 75.85%. However cotton fabrics dyed with 0.5% Juniperus chinensis extracts by distilled water were 86.3% in UV-A blocking rate and 89.1% in UV-B blocking rate, and silk fabrics were 93% and 94%. Cotton fabrics dyed with 0.5% Juniperus chinensis extracts by methanol were 93.3% in UV-A blocking rate and 94.6% in UV-B blocking rate, and silk fabrics were 95.1% and 96.7%. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with 1% dye concentration showed comparatively higher effect than 0.5% dye concentration. Deodorant ability of untreated cotton and silk fabrics are 29% and 69% each. Cotton fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts by distilled water were 68.2% in 0.5% dye concentration and 79.2% in 1% dye concentration, and silk fabrics were 90.2% and 94.4% each. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts by methanol showed comparatively higher effect than distilled water. IV. Conclusions Ultraviolet-cut ability of cotton and silk fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts were improved. Silk fabrics showed comparatively higher effect than cotton fabrics, because UV-blocking rate was increased with the dye uptake and dye uptake of silk was higher thanthe cotton. Deodorant ability of cotton and silk fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis extracts were improved. 74

76 References Kim, H. J. (2005). Dyeability of Red Cabbage and Beet Extract. Unpublished master thesis, Sung Shin Woman s University, Korea. Kim, Y, K. (2004). Natural Dyeing Properties and Antibacterial Activities of Fabrics Dyed with Cochineal. Unpublished master thesis, Dae Gu University, Korea. Lee, J. S. & Ki, Y. N. (2012). The Dyeing Properties of Juniperus Chinensis Heartwood hot water extraction. Conference of the Korean Fiber Society, 45(1), 60. Lee, J. S. & Ki, Y. N. (2012). Dyeability of ilk Fabrics with Juniperus chinensis Extracts by Solvents. Conference of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 24(1), 69. Kim, T. H. (2001). Studies on the several biological activities of the extracts from Juniperus chinensis L. and Juniperus rigida Sieb. Unpublished master thesis, Kang Won National University, Korea. Song, Y. C. (2001). Antioxidant Components from the Heartwood of Juniperus chinensis and their Anticholinesterase Activities. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Woo Sok University, Korea. Lee, J. C. (2004). Effect of Phytoncide on Demodex in human skin. Unpublished master thesis, Chung Ang University, Korea. Kim, K. R. (2006). A Study on antibacterial & antioxidation activities of needle-leaf tree. Unpublished master thesis, Soong Sil University, Korea. Yu, M. J., Lee, S. Y., Jo, S. H., &Park Y. (2010). Antimicrobial Activity and Antioxidative Effects of Juniperus chinensis and Protective Effects on Human HaCaT Keratinocyte. Journal of the Korean Society for Aesthetics and Cosmetics, 8(2), Zohoh, C. K., Kim, K. R., &Kim, J. C. (2007). The Effect of Antibacteria and Antioxidantion Activities from Needle Leaf Tree. J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 33(4),

77 S7 Snowflake Pattern Meets Textile/Fashion with Sensibility Myungeun Lee, Sangji Han, Kyunghyun Lee, Gilsoo Cho Department of Clothing and Textiles, Yonsei University, Korea I. Introduction Textile pattern design is usually initiated by a designer s intuition, but the designed textile pattern is not always accepted by the public wearers. It is because they want something emotional/ affective which reflects each wearer s preference. With the advent of the age of affection and sensibility, it became the most important thing to consider the wearer s sensibility in the design process. A scientific approach known as Sensibility Science is necessary in considering human sensibility in the design process. Many snowflake motifs were investigated by Libbrecht (2005), who pictured the patterns reflecting the internal structures of various kinds of snow. Humidity, temperature, and air pressure determine the shape of a snowflake, andthe incredible beauty and symmetry of a snowflakeevokes positive sensibility. It also gives us a natural feeling. Naturally colored organic cotton (NaCOC) is one of the eco-friendly materials expressing natural feeling as well. Because the color is already present in the fiber, NaCOC does not have to be dyed. Its color is delicate and soft. However, there has not been a variety of products shown in the commercial markets due to the lack of information for the new material. Therefore, this study aimed to figure out the human sensibilities evoked by the snowflake motifs, and to suggest the most appropriate textile pattern to the NaCOC fabric by applying the motif which presented the most positive sensibilities and preferences. Digital Textile Printing was used to apply the pattern to the fabric and the printed fabric was made into the eco-friendly fashion clothing by the draping technique. By doing so, we tried to link the findings of clothing sensibility science to the textile design process. II. Methods 2.1 Stimuli Among the Libbrecht s 35 snowflake motifs (Libbrecht 2005, 2010), eleven motifs were selected through a screening procedure done by four clothing sensibility research experts. The selected motifs were then edited into 298ⅹ298 pixel JPEG files in order to use as stimuli for visual sensibility evaluation. 2.2 Bipolar adjectives for visual sensibility evaluation Sixty one adjectives were collected through the references on visual sensibility evaluation (Lee. et al. 2002, Sohn. et al. 2002, Jang et al. 2003, Kim. et al. 2005, Jeong 2007). Among them, 10 pairs of adjectives were selected through the steps for eliminating for unsuitable ones.the bipolar adjectives for visual sensibility evaluation are; bright-dark, beautiful-ugly, light-heavy, showy-plain, clearsubdued, dynamic-static, special-normal, luxurious-cheap, like-dislike, and prefer-do not prefer. The 10 pairs of bipolar adjectives were then consisted of Semantic Differential Scale (SDS). gscho@yonsei.ac.kr 76

78 2.3 Visual sensibility evaluation The participants were 30 female volunteers whose age ranged from 24 to 35 (Mean = 28, SD = 3). A computerized sensibility evaluation system developed by Hong et al. (2010) was used for this study by presenting the stimuli and the adjectives simultaneously through a lap-top computer with 15.6 inch monitor. The surveyed results from the system were automatically saved. The experiments were performed in a sound proof chamber under 400 Lux of incandescent. When a participant came to the lab she was instructed how to treat the computerized sensibility evaluation system for about 5 min and then an evaluation process started and continued without a break until the evaluation for the eleventh stimuli finished. The order of the snowflake stimuli presented to the participants was determined randomly. It took about min per person depending on each person s trait. 2.4 Data analysis ANOVA and Duncan s multiple range tests were used to analyze the difference of visual sensibility and preference among stimuli using PASW Techniques for applyingthe best motif to textile/fashion The repeating unit, which was designed with two colors, green and orange,was developedby Adobe Illustrator (ver ) andprinted onto the NaCOC fabric by a digital textile printer (DTP) (UJET MC3, Kostec.). The NaCOC yarns colored with coyote-brown and ivory were used as weft yarns and the ivory organic cotton yarns were used as warp yarns and a sateen fabric was woven with the satin weave in which the coyote-brown colored weft yarns float over the surface of the fabric (Table 1). A concept of this clothing was Ecology and tried to show eco-friendly image through the clothing. A naturally draped dress with the developed sateen fabric was designed and constructed by the draping technique. Table 1. Characteristics of the NaCOC Fabric Fabric name Direction Yarn color Yarn type (count) Fabric Construction Fabric density (2.5x2.5 cm) Thickness (mm) Weight (g/m 2 ) Sateen Warp Ivory Staple (40 ) Weft Coyotebrown, Ivory Staple (40 ) Satin weave 143 X (provided by KAYJUNE Company co.ltd) III. Results and Discussion 3.1 Visual sensibility and preference differences among snowflake motifs ANOVA and Duncan s multiple range tests were performed to detect the visual sensibility and preference differences among the 11 snowflake motifs and some of the results are shown in Figure 1. There were significant differences in all visual sensibility and preference adjectives among stimuli (p<.001). Generally, the simple star and the stellar dendrite belonged to the high scored group which express affirmative affection such as brightness, beauty (a), lightness, showiness, clearness, specificity and luxuriousness (b). The simple star had the highest score in Like-Dislike (c) and Prefer-Not prefer (d). 77

79 (a) Beautiful-Ugly (b) Luxurious-Cheap (c) Like-Dislike (d) Prefer-Not prefer (***p<.001, a~e : groups by Duncan smultiple range test) Figure 1. ANOVA and Duncan s Multiple Range Test Results among 11 Stimuli on Visual Sensibility and Preference 3.2 The simple star printed onto the NaCOC fabric From the results of visual sensibility and preference evaluation, the simple star motif was chosen for textile pattern design, because it showed the highest affirmative affections and preferences. A fabric pattern was developed by the Illustrator and the developed pattern was printed by the DTP onto the coyote-brown and ivory mixed sateen fabric. The repeating unit of the pattern developed on the computer and the printed fabric by DTP are shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3, respectively. 3.3 The printed fabric into fashion clothing Since the concept of this printed fabric matches with Ecology,a naturally draped one-piece dress which shows eco-friendly image was made by the draping technique. The orange- andgreen-colored patterns with the simple star snowflake on the sateen fabric woven with the two colors of organic cotton yarns can be seen in the naturally draped one-piece dress (Figure 4). 78

80 Figure 2. Repeating Unit of the Developed Pattern with the Simple Star Figure 3. NaCOC Fabric Printed by DTP using the Pattern Figure 4. Naturally Draped Onepiece Dress Made of the NaCOC Printed Fabric IV. Conclusion Among the selected eleven snowflake motifs, the simple star was evaluated as the one which expresses the most positive sensibility such as brightness, beauty, lightness, showiness, clearness, specificity and luxuriousness. Furthermore, the simple star had the highest score in Like-Dislike and Prefer-Not prefer. Therefore, the simple star motif were chosen for designing the textile pattern for the NaCOC fabric. The developed pattern was printed by the DTP and the printed fabric was constructed into the fashion clothing which expresses the natural feeling and ecology Further study is needed to assess the sensibility of the clothing made with the developed pattern psychologically and physiologically. And it is necessary to investigate the possible ways to maximize the positive sensibility by adopting different fabrics or silhouettes with the same pattern. References Jang, H.J. and Yoon, H.K., A study on estimate based on human sensibility analysis and preference about hangul characters as design factor, Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion and Sensibility, 6(2), Jeong, S.H., Development of a self-report questionnaire-type scale for measuring user s emotions while using a product, Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion and Sensibility, 10(3), Kim, S., Eum, K., Chung, S., and Lee, J., A study on adjectives for selection of color patterns, Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion and Sensibility, 8(4), Lee, Y., Chung, H., Park, H., Lee, J., and Cho, G., Effect of design elements of block stripe pattern on sensibility, Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion and Sensibility, 5(3), Libbrecht, K., The physics of snowflakes, Reports on progress in physics, 68, Libbrecht,K.,2010.SnowCrystals.com, Caltech. Available from: [Accessed 26 April 2010] Sohn, J.H., Park, M.K., Lee, B.H., and Min, B.C., Development of an emotion scale and analysis of the structure of emotion induced by odors, Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion and Sensibility. 5(1), Acknowledgement This research was supported by Basic Science Research Program through the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) funded by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology ( ) 79

81 S8 Effects of Combination-Natural Dyeing on the Physical Properties and Functionality of Eco-friendly Fabrics (1) - Dyeability of Combination-dyed Fabrics with the Bark of Ash and Japanese Pagoda Tree Extracts Jeong Sook Lee, Joo Hyun Park Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, and Engineering Research Institute, Gyeongsang National University, Korea Recently, natural dyeing is increasing with importance of ecological environment. Combinationnatural dyeing can develop various colors by different chemical compositions according to the kinds of natural dyes. Natural pastel tone colors of natural dyes can be matched well by combination-dyeing. And it can be also expected to improve color fastness, functionality, and other properties. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of combination-natural dyeingon the physical properties and functionality of eco-friendly fabrics, and to provide basic data for developing natural dyeing clothes as commercially-appropriate and higher value-added products. In this study silk fabrics were used. For natural materials, the bark of ash (Fraxinus Rhynchophylla Hance) and Japanese pogoda tree(sophora japonica L.) were purchased at Korean medicine market. For natural dyeing, IR dyeing machine(ksl-24 Perfect, Korea) was used, and fabrics were dyed in the dyebath ratio of 1:100. For mordanting, chemicals such as AI, Cu, Fe, Sn were used. For dyeability evaluation, colorimeter(utrascan PRO, HunterLab) was used to calculate K/S value from the Kubelka-Munk equation. Based on CIE L* a* b*, CIE xy chromaicity diagram, and HV/C of Munsell's color system, color changes of dyed fabrics were also measured. Color fastness was evaluated by KS to examine dyeabillity properties. The K/S values of fabrics dyed with Japanese pagoda tree extractwere inceased by increase of concentration. For K/S values by mordanting methods, silk fabrics generally showed high K/S values using pre-mordanting method. Combination-natural dyeing with order Japanese pagoda tree extract and the bark of ash extract exhibited mixed color of Y-GY. Especially, the color tone of silk fabrics with Fe mordanting exhibited dark green. As the high concentration of Japanese pagoda tree extract, the bark of ash extract couldn't exhibit its own color, and the surface color of fabrics exhibited the color of Japanese pagoda tree extract. To get the well matched color, it was considered that the concentration of Japanese pagoda tree extract should be lower than that of the bark of ash extract. Combination-natural dyeing with the bark of ash and Japanese pagoda tree extract was suitable to mix colors and improve color fastness. This research was supported by Basic Science Research Program through the National Research Foundation of Korea(NRF) Founded by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology(Project N R1A1A ). jslee@gnu.ac.kr 80

82 S9 Thermal Physiological Responses of Wearing Tank Driver s Clothing Tae-Gyou Kim 1), Oh-Kyung Kwon 2), Sun-Hwa Park 2), Chong Hee Yun 1) Do-Hyun Lee 3), Chae Keun Lim 4) 1) Department of Fashion Design, Daegu Arts University, Korea 2) BSG Co.,Ltd, R&D Center, Korea 3) Korea Dyeing Technology Center, Korea 4) Defense Agency for Technology and Quality, Korea A military uniform is required exercise functionality and physiological comfort to make soldiers exercise in comfortable condition and to help them improve their ability and activity during the war. Consequently, the military uniform is introduced as military equipment beyond clothing in the developed countries because the military uniform should be studied along with advanced technology and scientific research, such as vital dynamics, medical science, and physiology. On the other hand, in Korea any studies on tank driver s uniform have hardly ever been yet. Therefore the purpose of this study is to help developing the military uniform which could maximize the material s function, enhance the safety, protection of soldiers, create a higher value-added product to enter the oversea market, and improve human thermal comfort comparing thermal physiological function and subjective evaluation of current tank driver s uniform (winter uniform) with new one (winter uniform). It was carried out as Human Wear Test comparing the old tank driver s winter uniform (A1) and new one (B1). In the experiment the 4 healthy males (23±2.16 ages, 175.8±1.5cm, 64.8±4.4kg) as human subjects were tested to measure their Thermal Comfort. The test consisted of total 5 stages during 100mins. After getting into environmental chamber ((15±2 of temp. and 50±5% of RH) for 20mins, in order, they had 4 periods which are exercise, rest, exercise in the wind (wind: 2.5m/sec) and recovery for 20mins on each period. And they walked on a treadmill for the exercise periods. (Speed: 5.5 km/h) The physiological responses of human subjects (skin temperature, clothing microclimate, body weight loss, and subjective sensation) were measured for 100mins. The result of the experiment got a significant difference between A1 and B1 using t-test with SPSS WIN The measurements were average and standard deviation of 4 human subjects. The results of the study were as follows. 1. Considering the change in mean body temperature, A1 kept 1 lower than B1 during whole the period. Thus the keeping warmth power of B1 might be better than A1. yjh413@empal.com 81

83 2. The change of Chest Temperature in Clothing Microclimate was in the range of B1 kept 0.5~2.0 higher than A1. (Significant difference: P<0.05) The change of back in Clothing Microclimate was in the range of 30~34. There was no significant difference between A1 and B1. 3. In the change of humidity in Clothing Microclimate, humidity of both increased since after 35mins (exercise session) and got the highest mark in the later rest session. B1 kept high humidity (significant difference: p<0.05) Overall it is considered that the keeping warmth power, comfort temperature/ humidity in Clothing Microclimate of B1 in environmental experiment in winter is closer the Comfort range of Clothing Microclimate (33, 50%RH) However there are required further researches which are applied in the various environments and wearing conditions since the experiment was carried out in the limited condition. Reference American Society for Testing and Materials, 1989, Annual Book of ASTM Standard, 米田新雄 (1974) 衣服衛生學, 化學東人, 東京, 69. 三浦運一 (1951) 日新醫學, 38, 9,

84 S10 A Preliminary Survey of the Actual Conditions of Wearing Clothing during Working Outdoors Ju Youn Kwon 1), Kyung-Suk Lee 1), Sun-Hwa Kim 2), Do Hee Kim 1) Hye-Seon Chae 1), Hyo-Cher Kim 1) 1) Department of Agricultural Engineering, National Academy of Agricultural Science, Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, Korea Clothing insulation which people wear is a fundamental factor, and has an influence on their thermal stress subjectively as well as physiologically. Ordinary people choose their clothing, related to the thermal environments they are exposed to, or for aesthetic purposes. However, outdoor workers such as farmers would tend to select clothing for considering anticontamination as well as work efficiency. The aim of this study was to find out what kinds of clothing farmers wear as well as how much clothing they put on during working outdoors. The survey was conducted at the end of May and June, in respect of elderly people. The items they put on were investigated during working. Their metabolic rate was estimated as about 165Wm -2 by ISO The questionnaire was composed of the types of upper clothing and lower clothing with each layer, collars, sleeve lengths, the length of trousers, material properties, the colour of clothing, the types of hat, shoes, and accessories items. Most of farmers, especially females, put on underwear with short sleeves, long sleeved shirt, underpants, and trousers. In addition, most of them put on their hat/caps, oversleeves, gloves, and rubber boots. The insulation values for clothing ensembles was estimated by ISO 9920, and clothing insulation was about 0.8clo and accessories such as oversleeves, muffs for calves and hats etc. were excluded from the value. The accessories such as oversleeves and muffs for calves were made of waterproof cloth, and the actual thermal insulation values would be higher than uncoated fabric. However, ISO 9920 does not provide the thermal insulation value for the accessories and it would be suggested that the thermal insulation value for these items should be added on ISO standard. In addition, it would be considered that farmers wore high clothing insulation due to the accessories although their activity level was moderate metabolic rate. Therefore, it can be shown that farmers working outdoors stand a chance of being exposed to the risk of thermal stress. References ISO8996(2004) Ergonomics of the thermal environment-determination of metabolic rate. International Organization for Standardization, Geneva ISO9920(2007) Ergonomics of the thermal environment-estimation of thermal insulation and water vapour resistance of a clothing ensemble. International Organization for Standardization, Geneva leeks81@korea.kr 83

85 S11 Study on Drapability and Mechanical Properties of Fabric Seo Hyo Kim 1), Chang Kyu Park 1), Joonseok Koh 1), Ho Sun Lim 2) 1) Department of Textile Engineering, Konkuk University, Korea 2) i-fashion Biz Center, Korea I. Introduction Drape, along with color, luster, and texture is an important factor that affects the aesthetics and dynamic functionality of garment. Drape Coefficient is the main parameter to quantify fabric drape. A low value of drape coefficient identifies an easily deformed fabric.chu et al.(1950) and Cusick et al.(1965) contributed towards practical determination of fabric properties by measurement of the three-dimensional form of drape. Furthermore, a new quantitative fabric drape evaluation system has been developed using image processing technology(collier, 1991; Robson&Long, 2000). The purpose of this study is to analyze the relationship between drape properties of fabrics obtained fromthe quantitative evaluation of fabric drape by image analysis and mechanical properties obtained by KES-FB(kawabata evaluation system for fabrics). Also, the values of drape coefficient compared to the Cusick drape tester were examined. II. Experiments 2.1 Specimen In this study, 11fabric samples were selected including cotton, wool and polyester. Table1 shows that fabric samples used in this experiment. Table1. Fabric samples No. Fabric contents 1 Cotton 100% 2 Wool 100% 3 Polyester 100% 4 Rami 100% 5 Rayon 100% 6 Silk 100% 7 Cotton 70%, Silk 30% 8 Cotton 70%, Polyester 30% 9 Cotton 40%, Rayon 60% 10 Polyester 20%, Wool 80% 11 Polyester 30%, Wool 70% 2.2 Measurement of fabric s mechanical properties The mechanical properties of a fabric material are measured by the KES-FB(Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics). Table2 shows 17 mechanical properties. cezar@konkuk.ac.kr 84

86 Table2. KES mechanical properties of fabrics parameter property Description unit LT Linearity none Tensile Bending Shear Compression Surface WT Tensile energy gf cm/cm 2 RT Tensile resilience % EMT Extensibility, strain at 500gf/cm % B Bending rigidity gf cm 2 /cm 2HB Hysteresis of bending moment gf cm 2 /cm G Shear stiffness gf/cm degree 2HG Hysteresis of shear force at 0.5 shear angle gf/cm 2HG5 Hysteresis of shear force at 5 shear angle gf/cm LC Linearity none WC Compressional energy gf cm/cm 2 RC Compressional resilience % MIU Coefficient of friction none MMD Mean deviation of MIU none SMD Geometrical roughness μm Thickness T Fabric thickness mm Weight W Fabric weight mg/cm Measurement of drapability The shape of drape is measured using two kinds of methods, Cusick drape tester(iso9073-9, A) and Drapemeter(ISO9073-9, B). In Cusick drape tester, the shape of projection was drawn on a ring of paper. The shaded area was cut and subsequently weighed. As a result, a drape coefficient was calculated from the following relationship. Drape Ratio(%) = A 2 A 0 A 1 A A 0 : area of supporting plate A 1 : area of fabric before testing Drapemeter A 2 : area of fabric after testing Drapemeter Drapemeterused a digital image process instead of a standard ring of paper.digital shadow image was captured with a digital camera then transformed into the monochrome image. After transforming into polar coordinates, the drape coefficient was calculated using automatic area calculation.it is a quantitative evaluation of fabric drape using image analysis and provides much detailed information of fabric drapability quantitatively from digital images captured. The shape parameters of a threedimensional geometric drape model were defined as a drape ratio, the number of nodes, and wave amplitude. Table3 shows that the three drape parameters used in this experiment. 85

87 Table3. Description of drape properties parameter description unit Drape Ratio(Coefficient) Percentage of drape coefficient % Node Number The number of drape waves(folds) EA Wave Amplitude The most dominant drape wave cm III. Results and Discussion 3.1 Drape properties and mechanical properties of fabric. There are 17 mechanical properties obtained by KES-FB, As a result of the correlation analysis between drape properties and 17 mechanical properties of fabric, 7 mechanical properties had a significant effect on drape properties(p-value<0.05). so we used thesignificant properties. Figure 1 shows the seven significant mechanical properties(spss 19.0). Also, we used normalized KES-FB values in order to standardizeboth the range andunit of seventeen mechanical properties. Therefore, we normalized the data as mean 0 and deviation 1. In advanced study, drapability of fabric is shown to have a strong correlation with bending, shear and tensile properties. Such evidence is demonstrated through this experiment as well. Additionally, the compressional energy(wc)is also found to have an influence on the fabric drape. Figure 1. Correlation coefficient between drape properties and KES normalized properties 3.2 Comparative analysis of drapability We carried out a correlation analysis of Drape coefficient between the Cusickdrape tester and Drapemeter. The correlation coefficient of 0.999(n=11, p=0.000) demonstrates that the Drapemeter provided results comparable to those obtained with the Cusick drape tester. Table 4 shows the correlation coefficient. 86

88 Cusick drape tester Drapemeter Table 4. The correlation coefficient of Drape coefficient between thecusick drape tester and Drapemeter. Drape coefficient Cusick drape tester Drapemeter Pearson correlation coefficient Significant level(p-value) N Pearson correlation coefficient Significance level(p-value) N IV. Conclusion In this study, we found out the relationship between fabric s drape properties and mechanical properties using two evaluation methods of fabric drape and also carried out a comparative analysis between two methods. Drape Ratio There is a stronger correlation with Hysteresis of bending moment(2hb), Shear stiffness(g) and Hysteresis of shear force at 5 shear angle(2hg5). (Table5) Node Number There is a stronger correlation with Bending rigidity(b). (Table5) Wave Amplitude There is a stronger correlation with Hysteresis of bending moment(2hb) andbending rigidity(b). (Table5) On the basis of the results, it was observed that the influence of bending, shear, tensile on fabric drape was significant. Additionally, the Compressional energy(wc)was found to have an influence on the fabric drape. Also, Drape coefficient through the Drapemeter has been shown to be highly correlated with the Drape coefficient obtained with the Cusick drape tester. Acknowledgement This research was supported by the MKE(The Ministry of Knowledge Economy), Korea, under the CITRC(Convergence Information Technology Research Center) support program (NIPA H ) supervised by the NIPA(National IT Industry Promotion Agency) References Park, C.(2002). Quantitative Evaluation of Fabric Drape Using Image Analysis.The Korean Society for Clothing Industry.4(3) Jedda, H., Ghith, A., &Sakli, H.(2007). Prediction of fabric drape using the FAST system. Journal of The Textile Institute. 98(3) Frydrych, I.,Dziworska, G.G., &Cieslinska, A.(2000). Mechanical fabric properties influencing the drape and handle.international Journal of Clothing Scence and Technology.12(3) Kenkare, N., &May-Plumlee, T.(2005). Evaluation of drape characteristics in fabrics.international Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.17(2)

89 D1 Domestic Researches of Creativity Techniques in Design Haesook Kwon Dept. of Fashion Design, Sangmyung University, Korea I. Introduction Design is a thinking act of creativity in order to improve the image, and the effect of ideas which can be expressed in many ways. If it is too abstract it is not a design because people would not be able to visualize the image and the creativity. Thus, a design cannot be a design without image and creativity (Hong, et al. 2007). In the context of design, aproblem is any situation where people have an opportunity to make a difference, to make things better. Whenever people are thinking creatively and critically about ways to increase the quality of life, people are actively involved in problem solving. Apart from knowledge and expertise, design problems require creativity. Creative thinking enables one to perceive a problem from unorthodox and innovative perspectives (Casakin & Kreitler, 2005). Creative problem solving is a special form of problem solving in which the solution is independently created rather than learned with assistance. Many of the techniques and tools for creating an effective solution to a problem are described in creativity techniques and problem solving. Brainstorming, The Creative Problem Solving Process(CPS), Mind mapping, Synectics, and TRIZ are the formalized and the most well-known methods and processes combine various creativity and creative-problem-solving techniques. Creativity techniques are methods that encourage creative actions, whether in the arts or sciences. They can be used as part of problem solving, artistic expression, or therapy (wikipedia). Creativity is a mental process involving the generation of new ideas and concepts, or structuring new associations between existing ideas or concepts. On the other hand, creativity can be considered as production of sensation which is aimed to be gained throughout design education, has more priority than anything else due to the rapid flow of knowledge in the present day (Ç elik & Aydinli, 2007). Also, creativity enables the talented designer to transcend conventional knowledge domain so as to investigate new ideas and concepts which may lead to innovative solutions (Casakin, 2007). The main purpose of this study is to analyze the content of domestic researches related with design education for creativity, especially focused on creativity techniques. II. Method Term Definition: In problem-solving contexts, the random-word creativity technique is perhaps the simplest method. Therefore, the creative problem solving and the creativity technique are used synonymous in this study. Sample Selection: First, the list of domestic studies searched by the internet National Assembly Library: key words were 'Design with Brainstorming, Synetics, CPS, TRIZ, Gordon Method, and Mindmap' and search resources were 'thesis' and 'scholarly references'. As a result, 14 TRIZ, 8 Mind Map, 6 Brainstorming, 4 Gordon Method, 3 CPS and 2 Synetics related studies were found. Among them, similar studies which were determined as similar topics and 6 studies which used more than one hskwon@smu.ac.kr 88

90 creatvity techniques, etc., were excluded. The total 14 researches of 3 CPS, 3 Brainstorming, 3 Mind Map, 1 Gordon Method, 4 TRIZ were selected for the final analysis in this study. Data Analysis: The data was analyzed qualitatively using content analysis. III. Results 1. Main Purpose and Content of Studies Main purpose was to examine the effectiveness of each creativity technique on enhancement of creativity. There were many suggestions as to how to develop creative abilities through the used of creativity technique. Many suggested that the creativity technique they used led their subjects to produce more creative design ideation or more creative design output. The main contents of previous domestic researches in design mainly focused on two aspects: 'creative design ideation' and 'creative problem-solving process'. More detail, they were classified by conditions for creative design ideas, creative ideation methods, and the step-by-step analysis of creative problem-solving process. Most researchers first introduced the each creativity technique method and then diagnosed the possibility of each creativity technique in design education or applied it to find out if the method was effective to improve the student's creativity or creative design development. 2. Research Methodology Study model : Overseas researchers have suggested their own education model for a creativity and then modified and developed it through continuous investigation. Many domestic researchers, however, simply applied the method which developed in the West to their studies and then searched for the solution to apply them in a domestic design education curriculum or course. Although some of researchers have suggested the specific learning programs for improving the creativity, most conducted theoretical approaches which were added or modified the established creativity technique method. Sample of Study : Samples of 4 studies were college students, 3 were elementary school kids, and 6 were secondary students. In one study, there was no mention about the target. Evaluation : Most studies focused on project-based teaching activities in design education. Researchers evaluated the output of design depends on the quantitative or qualitative design ideas or simply evaluate the results of design works. In some researches, samples were asked to record their satisfaction after they performed the proposed creativity technique program. Some researcher mentioned about how they measured the design output or what standards of evaluation they used, however, there was no indications about what standards of creativity used. IV. Conclusion 1. The Need of profound understanding through an in-depth study and extensive experience in each creativity technique. The reason why TRIZ used the most is that it has proposed the way and rule of direct problem solving, therefore, it may be easier for the systematic utilization than the other methods. Of course, TRIZ is very useful tool for use of innovative tools and techniques in problem solving. Its implementation is simple and also difficult, however, depending upon the situation and problem, and the competency level of TRIZ expert.the same is true of other techniques. For example, Gordon method emphasizes effective communication and conflict resolution using the win-win strategy. Collective discussion firstly addresses every conceivable aspect of a broad problem solving approach. This process helps to discover unusual approaches to the planning of a new design idea. In this process, the role of leader is very important. 89

91 In most researches included in this study, however, simply applied the method to their studies and then searched for the solution. This approach may reduce the reliability of study results or weaken the meaning of study. Therefore, more profound understanding and extensive experience in each creativity technique would be needed for next researchers. 2. More impirical research is needed to gain insight into the evaluation of creativity in design education Of course, different views about what is creativity and how to measure are still existed. Some researchers concluded that there is no single way of assessing it, because 'creativity is individual and so there cannot be any assessment criteria'. Some felt that the process of creativity could be assessed but not the outcome, 'the planning process and evaluation can, but not the ability to paint, draw, make etc.' and,' but the process would be wrong to assess the final product'. Another believe that, 'thought and ideas can be assessed, but not outcome'. No matter who claimed what, next researchers need to be addressed that how assess students design creativity. Therefore, more impirical research is needed in order to gain insight into the evaluation of creativity in design problem solving. 3. Other suggestions Many of studies focused on elementary and secondary education level in domestic. Miller (1986) argued that the creative process provides a basis for a modern liberal education in colleges and, in turn, should improve student performance. Therefore, more researches at the college level will be needed in the future. And there was a great lack of development to utilize the specific teaching methods and curriculum for educators, including how to configure the creative learning programs. More research in this area should be investigated. References Casakin, H.P.(2007). Metaphors in design problem solving: implications for creativity, International Journal of Design, 1(2), Casakin, H. P., & Kreitler, S.(2005). The determinants of creativity: flexibility in design. in P. Rodgers, L. Brodhurst, & D. Hepburn (Eds.), Proceedings of the 3rd Engineering & Product Design Education International Conference. pp London: Taylor & Francis. Ç elik, P. Y., & Aydinli, S.(2007). Creativity in design education: from problem-solving to puzzlesolving, ITU A Z. 4(2), Cha, Yonh sun, Park Yunmi(2011). Proposal of design education program for creativity enhancement based on CPS process -character Animation using clay, Design forum. 30, Chung, Philku(2008). A study on the development of education program for green design applying TRIZ,Unpublished master's thesis, Koonkmin University. Creative problem solving, Rertieved June 10, 2012, from Creativity Techniques, Retrieved June 10, 2012 from Heo, Yunyuong(2010), Research on how to teach on the design teaching plan applying CPS(Creative Poblem Solving) : the focus on 6th-grade elementary school students, Unpublished master's thesis, Kyungin Education College. Hong, Jungpyo& Jeong, Sukyoung&Cho, Dongmin(2007). Idea generation methodology for creative design thinking, IaSDR 07, International Association of Design Research, the Hongkong Polytechnic University, 12th to 15th Nov.,

92 Jeon, Yeonsil(2007). A study on the application of TRIZ in conceptual ideation for product design curriculum of Vocational high school, Master's thesis, Koonkmin University. Jung, Jongsook(2005). A Study on developing creativity through "Mind Map" : focused on poster design, Unpublished master's thesis, Inha University. Kim, Youri(2010). Study on enhancing expressiveness through creative thinking techniques : Focus on brainstorming,unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University. Kim,Yooseok(1999). A study on the application of brainstorming to product design class, Proceedings ofkorean Society of Design Science, Fall Conference,Korea, pp.6-7. Lee, Jongsuk & Shin, Soogil(2000). A study on imagination of product design concept by mind map. Journal of Korean Society of design Science, 39, 13(4), Nam, Hyeonjung(2004). A study on the educational program for the extension of creative design thinking ability applying TRIZ,, Unpublished master's thesis, Koonkmin University. Park, Junguk(2009). The impact of the design class applying Osborn s CPS model on the development of the ability of creative expression : with Middle school year one student as the central figure,unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University. Park Su-zin & Ryu Jae-man(2001). A study on creative elementary design education by TRIZ technique, Korean Art Education, 28, Seong, Jina & Lee, Woohun(2010). A study on the Paper as a Medium for Brainstorming in Design, Journal of Korean Society of Design Science87,23(1), Yi, Jaehwan(2007). A better way to teach creative poster design: The mind map.unpublished master's thesis, Graduate School of Art Education, Dankook University. Yoo, Jaechoon(2009). Creative technique research based on Gordon Method for designers, Digital Design Study, 9(3),

93 D2 Characteristics and Meanings of Persona-oriented Expressions in Contemporary Fashion Designs Soon Ja Kim Department of Fashion Design, Sangmyung University, Korea Modern people living in the digital age are confronted with loss of the ego and absence of feelings of existence. Persona means the mask of personality where the internal ego exposes itself to the outside. Complicated structure and diversity of modern society has come to provide men with more variegated and diversified persona, and advancement in the internet and information communications allows for possibility of more variegated and new anonymous persona emerging. Fashion in modern society is one of man's outward attitudes showingin social relations, and has functions as an interface linking society and individuals. A trend of denying the human body and highlighting fashion design only as a formative object is emerging recently in fashion collections where the faces of models are covered up or amorphous human figures are presented. Such a fashion trend could be a particular form of expressing the ego featuring extremely self-defensive or closed attitude dreaming of freedom and liberation in a digital age featuring anonymity on line and a lifestyle alienated from outside world. This study aims to examine persona-oriented expressing characteristics as expressed in fashion designs. To this end, this study reviews the concept and various characteristics of persona, and examines the type of persona focusing on the perspective of manifestation of identity in the digital space. In order to analyze persona-oriented expression characteristics, various persona-oriented expression characteristics embodied in modern fine arts are examined through an analysis of painters and their art works, and persona-oriented expression characteristics and meanings in fashion designs are analyzed on such a basis. Persona means a mask worn in a masque in ancient Greece, from which such words as personality and person are derived. Carl Gustav Jung the psychologist called the behavioralmode such as a role, duty and promise allotted by a group to an individual persona. That is, a persona is a role that assigns to a person from the society and a role to play expected of a human being. When the space making up a persona is transferred from realities to a digital space, the way of a persona shows itself explicitly changes.in a digital space, diversified identity is expressed in a form different from the ego in realities. Diversified identity can be created anew due to anonymity in a digital space. This enables individuals who are oppressed by social constraint to express another ego, and undergo experience of transforming himself or herself into the imaginary looks. The character of persona has been diversified and changed by complex social structure and negative aspects as well as positive aspects are appearing as the phenomena of the times. Persona is being recognized as an essential task for modern artists. Persona has been expressed in the image of human beings for a long time due to its substantial characteristic of representing the consciousness of human beings.persona-oriented expression in modern fine arts can be categorized into figurative persona and self-denial persona. Figurative persona is pursuing persona through the works of concrete visual figuration and expressing the subject that one would like to express as an outward person through a specific object. Denial persona is a kind of performance through the change sonja298@naver.com 92

94 of body of artists, make up or production. This enabled expression of virtual characters in adigital spaces in which wholly different self or other self is granted in ways the characteristics of actual or denial self of artist is melted in the external forms. The persona-oriented expression in fashion designs shows the subject that transmits fashions through images of animals or dolls, other than a human body. This is a childlike persona-oriented expression that expresses the ego through the infantile substances such as a dream or fantasy in the childhood. On the other hand, it could be an embodiment of sensitivity and fear entrenched deep inside in modern society through other egos. Denying existence itself by covering up the eyes or face, or conceal the body with masks or veils is an expression of a self-denying persona. The human body concealed sometimes shows expressions adding transformed bodily characteristics, which pursues new identity through new creative forms. The realities are camouflaged as a transformed persona and the amorphous mask created in a new form generates a false face and manifests free will of modern man to transform. Persona-oriented expression shown in the fashion design is a communication method of the designer who reals own world of creation and expresses designer's unique individuality. A persona is expressed as a form of mask, and used as presentation and expression of the free and transformed ego. It indicates that fashion now being changed necessarily reflects such a trend of digital age. 93

95 D3 Development of Design for Fashion Cultural Goods Applied the Korean Traditional Knot Suk-Hyang Yang Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, Korea I. Introduction Each ethnic group is constantly striving for globalization as welcoming the global era of the 21st century. At times like this, developing cultural products with a modern image based on the traditional culture with the pervading intrinsic aesthetic sense of one s country can be an excellent item to increase differentiated value in the international stage. A knot is a generic term for textile production of tying, weaving, and knitting through use of one or more than two strings or cords. The finished knot has identical shape of front and it starts from the center and ends at the center. We are unsure of the origin of such knot but it is believed to have occurred naturally from a way of tying things with the stem of a plant, the bark of a tree, and hide as means of practical livelihood. The knots designated as the intangible cultural property No. 22 of Korea include lifestyle knot, apparel knot, ceremonial knot, and decorative knot. In modern fashion, knot has a formative element that can satisfy diverse consumers of the world as one of the typical textile art of expressing beauty and style of Korean tradition. This study aims to develop a cultural product by developing a motif with traditionality and modern sense through reinterpreting the shape of tradition knot of Korea and to suggest its applications. II. Research Method After considering theoretical backgrounds through references about traditional knots of Korea, 5 motifs with mixture of traditionality and modernism by expressing a traditional knot and hand sewing technique of traditional knots of Korea using the vector program Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were developed. Various Fashion Cultural Goods with Korean image were designed through changes of colors and arrangement, and its application methods were found. III. Results and Considerations Basic motifs with modern and new formative image were developed by combining the motif that simplified symbols of knot and tassel and the shape of knots with an expressive method of traditional hand sewing. Motif 1 combined and simplified the geometric knot symbol of turtles and rail into design with a modern image and tradition. Motif 2 created design with a traditional and modern image by combining the shape of sasaekpan (4-color) knot and the side division of jogakbojagi (quilted scarf). Motif 3 created design with a modern image by combining triangular, rectangular, and circular shape of mixing signs of gajibangseok (cushion-shaped) knot, maehwa (apricot flower) knot, angyeong (glass) knot, and garakju (ring) knot by mixing it with the expressive method of traditional hand sewing through repetition, rotation, enlargement, and reduction. Motif 4 used side division and complementary colors with the shape of samjeongja (3-piece) knot to create design. Motif 5 simplified the symbols of nabi knot (bowknot) and maehwa (apricot flower) knot into a symmetric motif using enlargement and reduction. maria@sunchon.ac.kr 94

96 As the above, 5 of newly designed motifs with modern sense were redesigned into fashion cultural goods with a new and modern image by applying changes of various angles, arrangement, and size through repetition, rotation, reduction, and enlargement. Ways to use the developed patterns in everyday life were found through application to necklaces and scarves. IV. Conclusion This study selected traditional knots of Korea as the subject material for developing fashion cultural goods to create national image and increate the differentiated value, and it developed 5 motifs with modern sense and traditionality using the vector program Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3. Motif were designed and created using shape and symbol of traditional knot, components of jogakbojagi (quilted scarf), and expressive method of traditional hand sawing. And various patterns were designed by giving changes to many angles using colors and arrangement. Methods of using pendants and scarf, which can be easily used in everyday life, were also suggested. These fashion cultural goods can be widely used in clothing such as pendant and scarf suggested in this study and the general fabric materials. References Lee, M.S. (2006). A Study on the Development of Cultural Products with Applied Koguryo Wadang Pattern. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 56(6), Lee, S.P., Kim, S. H. (2007). A Study on Hampyeong Butterfly Festival Cultural Products Design Contents using CAD. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 15(5), Kim, G.Y., Oh, Y.J. (2011). Design Development for fashion-cultural Products using traditional Tteoksal Patterns. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(5), Kim, H.J.(2006). MAEDEUP. Seoul: Hollym. 95

97 D4 A Study on Fashion Display Design using Combine Technique Eun Kyung Lee Dept. of Fashion design & Business, Daejeon University, Korea I. Introduction Recently, fashion shops have laid emphasis on the presentation method to stimulate clients' purchasing desire by attracting their eyes. For this, fashion display design seeks after the way of moving clients by using the combine skill in the form of developed conception. It is because creative idea of combine Technique is closely related with the products which people consume. This study aims at making a contribution that henceforth, the fashion display design in Korea should cast off its uniformity and progress into individualization by suggesting a new presentation method through combine skill. Ⅱ. The Way of Study Combine Technique, and presentation concept of display, characteristics, etc., are investigated through domestic and foreign books, previous study, and materials from internet, etc.,.. In regards to the study of examples, since domestic sources are meager, 126 pictures of fashion display have been garnered and analyzed. After finding out the examples of fashion display, its way and characteristc, etc., by combine skill on the basis of this, the direction of new fashion display will be presented. lll. Result and Examination After five examples applying the combine skill at the foreign fashion store display were specified and analyzed, following display plan for new object expression could be suggested. 1. Symbolization of Common Image Symbolization of Common image corresponds to the purpose of display design which pursues consumer-oriented beauty. This is very effective in stimulating the emotion of clients because it matches wellfrom the point of design and emotion. 2. Collaboration with Fine Arts Expressional feature produced by the collaboration of fine arts with fashion display turns purchasing space into optical format one. This can enhance the clients' satisfaction by maximizing the effect like seeing the fine arts. 3. The Use of Wastes around It is necessary for fashion industry to instill into clients' mind the new image which it works as vanguards for the preservation of environment. The fresh image recreated by giving the life into common things through the use of wastes around can induce clients' interests. 4. The Combination with Common Tools dream@dju.ac.kr 96

98 Various tools being used in daily life is to be matched by making use of fashion products and combine skills. This combination makes the coincidence look more liberal, which has the value of being as a new combination itself, while stimulating the curiosity of clients. 5. Embodiment of Material and Non-material By the combination of material used in the daily life, that is, the combination of ready-made material with the image of products, which are non-material, the brand image is accentuated. As this has a tendency to be paid much attention to, it stimulates the purchasing impulse by enhancing clients' mood. Ⅳ. Conclusion Through this study, 5 skills were to be summarized with regards to the combine skill which was applied when fashion display design could be made. That is, they are the symbolization of common image, the collaboration with fine arts, the use of waste material around, the combination with tools in daily life, the embodiment of material and non-material. It is thought that combine skill in terms of futuristic and developed concepts is very effective way of enhancing the purchasing efficiency by inducing the interests of clients who have high-quality and high sensitive taste. I hope that diverse fashion design skill will emerge, which can satisfy the clients who demand even the aesthetic and cultural elements. References Chang Jea Yun (2009), Research on show window kinetic display -Focus on eco friendlyenergy usage-, Graduate School, Seoul National University of Technology. Lee Wyon Woo (2000), Implied Direction of Fashion Display Based on Object Method, Graduate School, Joong yang university. Martin M. Pegler (1993), Visual Merchandising & Display, 2nd ed. Fashion & Merchandising Group. Bradley Quinn (2003), The Fashion of Architectural Design, Berg London. blog.daum.net/iudia0809/

99 D5 The Preferred White & Color Dress Designs and Textiles for Korean Women s Wedding Occasion Chil Soon Kim, Heesoon Yang Dept. of Textile and Clothing Design, Kyung Hee University, Korea I. Introduction Wedding dress gives an important meaning to brides, so most brides choose their wedding dress carefully. Lifestyle is one of key factors in the selection of wedding dress (Kim & Yang, 2012). As consumers demand gets diversified and global luxury brands enter the Korean wedding market, national brands have a difficulty in surviving. When consumers propensity for consumption is peculiar, dress design becomes more and more important to female consumers. In this situation, it is important to investigate what design is in order to develop dresses that satisfy consumers demand. Here, the purpose of this study was to determine the Korean women s preference for design and textile of wedding dresses when they choose one. II. Methodology For this purpose, a questionnaire is used, the items of which consists of all the elements of dress design: silhouette, train, neckline, waistline, sleeves, trimming, and color of wedding dress. In addition, it includes question on preferred textiles and basic consumer information. To help respondents understand each question, pictures on every element are presented. Respondents are limited to women aged 21 to 39, who live in Seoul and Kyunggido. Four hundred samples were used for the final analysis. III. Results & Conclusion In recent years, many Korean brides likely to wear two or more wedding dresses including white dress on the wedding ceremony day and color dress on the wedding photo shoot day. Furthermore, they have the preferred image of wedding dress on each occasion. To reflect this trend, we divided wedding dresses into two: white dress and color dress. The results are as follows. In white wedding dress, the most preferred silhouette was ball gown (36.0%), in the second place, balloon silhouette, fit and flare, A line, mermaid and sheath silhouette were favored by 32.0%, 14.3%, 13.0%, 3.5%, and 1.3% of people, respectively. In contrast, in color dress, the most preferred silhouette was fit and flare (41.3%), in sequence, mermaid (16.5%), balloon (15.0%), ball gown (10.8%), A line (9.8%), and sheath (6.8%) appeared in order. In white wedding dress, the most preferred train was cathedral, which is long over cm from waistline (41.0%). On the one hand, in color dress, the most preferred was sweep, which length is from waist to floor (34.5%). In white wedding dress, the most preferred neckline was sweet-heart, the ratio of which was 29.3%. The ration of tube top was 25.5% and that of off the shoulder was 14.0%. In contrast, in color dress, the ratio of tube top took up 21.8%, the largest percentage. In the second place, sweet-heart 18.8%, unbalanced 17.0%. In white wedding dress, the most preferred waistline was natural (46.5%), while, in color dress, the ratio of empire was largest as 36.0%. As for sleeve of wedding dress, sleeveless was the most skullyang@hanmail.net 98

100 preferable both in white dress and in color dress, the ratio of was 30.5% and 34.8%, respectively. The most preferred textile of wedding dress was polished satin (38.5%), in the second place, organza accounted for 36.3%, which is characterized as the thin and transparent feeling. This result shows a quite difference from Chinese preferred style (Kim, 2012). Thus we have to understand what the consumers like to wear in target area. Based on these findings, national wedding brands have to develop their wedding dresses to satisfy consumers diversified desire. This research s results can be used as a data to develop wedding dress for Korean women. References Kim, C. S.,Yang, H. (2012). Selective Behavior of Wedding Dress according to Women's Lifestyle, Korea Design Forum, 35, Kim, C. S. (May. 2012). Analysis on FW wedding dress design and material preference of 20 to 30 aged Chinese women by demographic variable, Proceedings of 2012 KSCI,

101 D6 The Study on the Form of Scythian Trousers Youngsoo Yi-Chang Department of non-european culture, The German Archaeological Institute, Germany I. Introduction Trousers started as a means to protect the body as the temperature rapidly dropped due to changes in the Earth around 9~10th century B.C, at the end of the Bronze Age, early Iron Age. It is known as the outcome to get accustomed to new life, which appeared as agrarian society had changed to the nomadic life of livestock farming and the society where people fight on horseback riding due to such change in the Earth. Scythian is the tribe who had lived in this period of change and worn trousers, and is very meaningful in study on the trousers of ancient nomadictribes. In addition, the study on costume of Scythian takes important part in the study aiming to find out the original costume of Korea since Scythian costume is the costume style that is known as the same series of our costume in general. In particular, study on trousers has been always regarded as an important theme of the study based on 'Horse-Riding People Origin Theory" of our people. Accordingly, the study on the form of Scythian trousers is meaningful in that it can be an important material that can be used for the study on the series and form of ancient trousers of our people. This study is on Scythian who had crossed the Steppe of Siberia and the Eurasian Continent and spreaded civilization from 9/8th century B.C. to 5-4th century B.C. In particular, this study aims to present the type of trousers of ancient nomadic tribes by focusing on the trousers they had worn as nomadic tribes and to use it for studies designed to find the original form of Korean costume. In general, studies on ancient history depend on artifact and literature. The study on Scythian is not an exception, but since there is no record as literature for the study on Scythian except the description that Greek historian, Herodot, told about Scythian who had lived on the north of the Black Sea, most studies depend on archaeological excavations. In this regard, this study aims to examine the form of trousers through relics of Scythian. II. The Scythian Group and their history Scythian is the nomadic tribe who had lived in the north of the Black Sea during Ancient Greece, but in a broad sense, all nomadic tribes who had lived in Eurasia. This Chapter examines the history and feature of Scythian per region where they lived The Scythian in northern Black Sea In the 8th century, B.C. Scythian is the tribe who had settled down in the downstream of Wolga river and has ancient "wooden chamber grave culture(holzkammergrabkultur)". They threatened and kicked out their neighbor to the west, Kimmerian who had lived in the northern Black Sea from the 8th century B.C to the 6th century. Most Scythian chased after Kimmerian who ran away to the south over the Caucasus Mountains to enter Asia Minor, where Kimmerian moved to the west and went to Anatolia, Scythian moved to the east and settled down at the southwestern Caspian Sea, current Aserbeidschan area. Chang8489@hanmail.net 100

102 In the Asia Minor, Scythian fought against the empires who had powers in this region. At 675, B.C, there is record at cuneiform script, which mentioned about Scythian who had lived near Urmia-See. This record is the one Scythian appeared first in the history. Scythian had left bloody traces at Syria and Palaestina between B.C. Such record also remains in the Jeremiah of Bible. Around 600 B.C., Scythian went back to the Black Sea where they had lived from the Asia Minor. Going back to their hometown, Southern Russia, Scythian started everything again. They seemed to apply every experience they had in Asia Minor to their arts. So that, decorations found at the grave of Scythian created after 6th century B.C, were completed with artistic workmanship to the details. Since Hirsch, Pferd, Adler, the animals that existed in the hometown of Scythian as well as other animals of the Asia Minor such as lion and Steinbock are described in combination, it is wonderful, fascinating Mixture. In addition, they were affected by Greek culture with neighbors in Greek colonies that emerged at northern Black Sea, and the Scythia culture began to spread to the western Europe The Scythian in Eurasian Steppe Ancient Persian called Scythian Saka tribes, which is the general term of iranian nomadic tribes of Asia. In addition, Greece used the word "Saka" tribes to refer to the nomadic tribes of North Iran who lived at the north part of Syr-Dar'ja river. Accordingly, Saka tribes can be considered to refer to Scythian who had lived in Eurasia region. While it is not clear whether this tribes are the same tribes as Scythian who had lived in the Black Sea, it is regarded as Scythian with similar tribes in the studies that have been conducted up to now. Persian divided the Scythian into Scythian who had lived in the northern Black Sea,; Saka- Tigrakauda, the Saka who had worn sharp pointed hat, lived in Eurasia Steppe, and Saka-Haumavarga people, the Saka who ate Haoma medicinal herbs The "sharp pointed hat"putted Saka (Saka-Tigrakauda) The "sharp pointed hat" putted Saka is called Saka-Tigrakauda, where kauda means a hat and tigra means sharp. They had lived to the west of Syr-Dar'ja river, north of Amu-Dar'ja(Oxus) river Saka-Haumavarga Saka-Haumavarga is the Saka who had lived in the Steppe to the east of Sir Darja(Jaxartes) river and ate Haoma herb, which is known as the healthy herb and has the effect of entrancing people The Scythian in Siberia According to ancient tradition, the Siberia which borders with part of current Kazakstan, to the east of the Ural Mountains, had played an important role in the history and origin of Scythian. It suggests that Kimmerian and Scythian who had moved to the Black Sea and Asia Minor came here. However, since there is no sufficient record on tribes who had lived in Siberia and Central Asia area, studies on this region depend on the archeological findings. Culture of Scythian in Siberia is known through the relics excavated in the grave of Scythian nobles speculated to be 4/3th century found at Pazyryk of Altai mountains. III. The Form of Scythian Trousers 3.1. The Form of Scythian Trousers in northern Black Sea In general, the form of Scythian trousers in the northern Black Sea, as identified in the relics is found to have three styles such as long narrow trousers attached with shoes at the end of the trousers(fig. 1), the trousers worn with the end tucked in the short boots(fig. 2) and the trousers with 101

103 the end down to the top of the foot(fig. 3). In addition, some trousers are decorated with patterns. Arch-shaped round line patter is mainly observed, as described in the iron pot used by Scythian. In addition to the trousers with above shapes, drapery type trousers with many pleats and wider legs (Fig. 4 ) is also observed, so that various forms of Scythian's trousers can be assumed. The form of trousers with many pleats as shown in (Fig. 4) seems to be affected by the influence of Greek culture that Scythian accepted in their contact with Greek colonies built on the northern Black Sea at that time after they went back here from the Asia Minor around 600 B.C as explained earlier. Since the form of trousers described above(fig. 1,2,3) was found in relics recorded as the 4th century B.C, new form of trousers seems to appear due to influence of Greek culture in addition to the form of trousers they had traditionally worn after they went back to the Black Sea The Form of Trousers of Scythian in Eurasiean Steppe The Form of Trousers of the Saka-Tigrakauda This Saka-Tigrakauda was depicted in the reliefs of tributes to Persepolis Apadana Palace and the relief of Bisutun of Persia Achaemenid Empire. They wore Baschlyk of the long triangle shape that is pointed at the end, and the jacket with straight end (Kasak or Sarpis), and tight narrow leg trousers. Leg parts become narrower at the end and shoes (or socks) are attached at the end of trousers(fig. 5, 6). This form of trousers is similar to that of trousers(fig.1) shown earlier. That is, this form of trousers is speculated to be the form of trousers commonly used in Scythian regardless of Scythian tribes and its regions. In addition, the other form of trousers is also observed with variation of narrow-leg trousers. Saka- Tigrakauda was found to wear narrow-leg trousers tied at the shin(fig. 7) at the tributes of stairs of Artaxerxes I Palace built about 50 years after the reliefs of tributes of Persepolis Apadana Palace. Therefore, there were many styles of narrow-leg trousers of Scythian The Form of Trousers of Saka-Haumavarga Saka-Haumavarga was depicted in the reliefs of tributes of Persepolis Darius Palace, to wear wideleg straight type trousers that had round horizontal pleats at the end and below the knee(fig. 8). The archaeologist Calmeyer explained that this trousers was worn over the thick socks used like boots and tied over the socks. According to his explanation, 2 horizontal pleats of this trousers are the description of drooping shape of wide leg part after the trousers are tied 2 times with string. Darius Palace was built by Artaxerxes III( B. C.) and the form of trousers of Saka- Haumavarga described here was that of middle of 4th century B.C. Compared to that of Saka- Tigrakauda, the leg part is found to be much wider The Form of Trousers of Scythian in Siberia The Kurgan of Pazyryk In the grave of Scythian excavated at Pazyryk, northern Siberia region of Altai mountains proven as the Scythian culture at the 4/3th century, B.C. mounted nobleman wore narrow leg trousers. The form of this trousers is similar to that of Scythian depicted in the tributes of Apadana Palace of Persia Achaemenid Empire explained earlier(fig. 9). As the shapes of animal found at the Persia Achaemenid Empire were observed in several relics excavated from the Kurgan of Pazyryk, they proved contact with Persia Achaemenid Empire and the forms of trousers were found to be similar. 102

104 IV. Conclusion The following is the conclusion obtained from the study on trousers of Scythian, the nomadic tribes who had lived in the northern Black Sea, Eurasia Steppe and Siberia region from 9/8th century B.C to 5-4th century B.C. The form of trousers was divided into 1) narrow-leg and 2) wide-leg trousers. 1) There are several types of narrow-leg trousers such as the trousers attached with shoes(socks) at the end, trousers worn with the end tucked in the short boots, and trousers the end of which is drooped to the top of the foot without short boots. In addition, the form of trousers after 6th century B.C which was affected much by the culture of Asia Minor and the Greece shows the wider leg and more pleats on the trousers. And 2) the wide-leg trousers is found at the reliefs described in the middle of the 4th century B.C. showing that it is the form of trousers of late Scythian culture. <map 1> Eurasia Steppebelt and Scythian tribes, 8: Pazyryk 103

105 <Figure> <Fig. 1> Scythian who wears narrow-leg trousers as described in a helmet,, 4th century, B.C. <Fig. 1-1> Details of the form of trousers which is narrow legged and attached with shoes at the end <Fig. 2> The form of trousers which is narrow legged and worn by tucking the end into the short boots, 4th century, B.C. <Fig. 3> The form of trousers which is narrow legged and the end of which is drooped to the top of the foot <Fig. 4> Trousers which is little wide legged and has pleasts, middle of 4th century, B.C. <Fig. 5> Skunka, Scythian king depicited in the relief of Bisutun, taken by the researcher, date taken: Feb. 5, 2007 <Fig. 6> Scythian depicted on the reliefs of tributes of Persepolis Apadana Palace, taken by the researcher, date taken: Feb. 11, 2007 <Fig. 7> Scythian, tributes of stairs of Artaxerxes I Palace - taken by the researcher, date taken: Feb. 2, 2008 <Fig. 7-1> Trouser details, style of trousers tied at the shin - taken by the researcher, date taken: Feb. 2,

106 <Fig. 8> Tributes depicted at Darius Palace <Fig. 8-1> Trousers Details <Fig.9> Narrow-legged trousers, Pazyryk <Fig. 9-1> Details References Seipel, wilfried((hg.)(2009). Gold der Steppe, Holzhausen Druck GmbH: Wien. Parzinger, Herman(2007). Die Skythen, Verlag C. H. Beck: München. Rolle, Renate & Müller-Wille und Schietzel Kurt( 1991). Gold der Steppe, Archäologie der Ukraine, Karl Wachholtz Verlag:Neumünster. V. Cugunov, Konstantin & Parzinger, Herman & Nagler Anatoli(2006). Der Goldschatz von Arzan, Schirmer/Mosel: München. 105

107 D7 A Study on Upcycling Design in Fashion Industry Kyung Hee Choi Dept. of Fashion Design, Honam University, Korea In modern society, environmental problems which are caused by industrial waste and daily waste from highly industrialized world have caused social issues. In modern fashion, they also have applied waste and recycled to bring an awareness of environmental problem, so recycling fashion of new ecofriendly fashion became the conversation topic. As a result, upcycling design that is to make waste rebirth through better designing in aspects of function and artistic have been showed variously as one of eco-friendly fashion. This study considers which tendency upcycling has toward in modern fashion through case study, and it has a purpose that upcycling will be able to forward-looking alternative for understanding of upcycling fashion and eco-friendly fashion design. The method of research use both of case study and content analysis of literature and photographs, the range of research is home and foreign magazines, books, collection datas, web sites and et cetera about design and fashion from 2000 after 21 century when eco-friendly elements started to be come to the fore to The results are as follows. A term Upcycling was used for the first time by Reiner Pilz in 1994 in his interview, and combined by a joint book Cradle to Cradle by William McDonough and Michael Braungart. Upcycling, in the literal sense of the word, means conversion waste into better quality or higher environmental value, that is to say high-value recycling to add design to recycling. Upcycling was achieved from grafting of manufacturing technology without secondary pollution, and develop simpler and more efficient process as a result of sustainable technical development of eco design through waste recycle. It is a result of injection the notion of Produce more from less' which is Eco-Efficience. Upcycling design which surpasses notion of eco-friendly design has purpose to preserve future of the earth and mankind, thus upcycling fashion items should consider productivity in the aspect of material, effective use and circularity in the aspect of user, and a production method which can be minimize environmental impact of waste. Upcycling products in the aspect of material through recycling of resources are classed as using textile and not using textile. Upcycling products using textile. from banner, leather, burlap, thread, abandoned clothes and fabric and etc, are newly used with a varied design and original idea as their own shape, color and quality. Especially in case of upcycling design which made from abandoned fabric and clothes to new design, it has an new aesthetic value and to emphasize creativity of work through adding unique wit and sense of designer in process of separation, dissolution, and recombining. Materials of upcycling products not using textile are vinyl, plastic, rubber, pet, can, paper, fabric of parachute, cassette tape. They give them re-birth to shape of yarn through re-manufacturing and reprocessing, so those are changed to new item which are totally different with its own shape or use. khchoi@honam.ac.kr 106

108 In the aspect of diversification of fabric which is one of the biggest feature in modern fashion, introduction of upcycling fabric in modern fashion influence new design organization and provide creative chance through recycling of fabric as reprocessing or re-use of abandoned fabric and waste. In this way, upcycling design in fashion industry has surprise, which shed from existing thinking, and reflect value of sustainable design and valuable circulation of resource, and has value of handcraft decoration along with mostly being made by hand. Upcycling design maintains its own figure, but has new feature which is not own feature being able to guess from appearance. Therefore, it has a feature to create new and fresh design and have scarcity value because only one in the world. The main item of upcycling products is mostly bag, the rests are developed variously in fashion accessory such as accessory, socks, clothes, shoes and etc. Development and application of various expression technique using upcycling material along with eco-friendly design trend in modern fashion will be very important element by seriousness of environmental problem, the exhaustion of resources and the pursuit of value of a diversity of material. Upcycling design, and, seems to suggest a variety of inspiration in fashion and artistic aspect as well as to convey eco-friendly meaning of recycling resources and economic feasibility through harmonizing mankind, the environment and fashion. 107

109 D8 A Study on Proposals of Preservations and Applications of Wedding Gyubang Crafts Youn Soon Lee Department of Clothing and Fashion, Yeungnam University, Korea I. Introduction In Korean traditional society, wedding ceremony was recognized the most ceremony among family rites, So it was conducted with some regular procedures and there were used some Gyubang crafts according to wedding procedures. Wedding Gyubang crafts were made with all maker's heart. So they were usually had not only some symbolic meanings, traditionalsm and totemism deeply, but also were more beautiful, delicate and excellent sewing skill than the other Gyubang crafts. Recently, there is common the western style wedding ceremony in stead of traditional style in Korea, but some traditional procedures, as like as 'Sending Sasung, the birthday of bride, Napae-Ham' and 'Paebak' and etc.. Although some of wedding Gyubang crafts for them were used until nowadays, almost of them were thrown out after using them for wedding. Therefore it needed to research how to use or apply them after wedding ceremony in order to preserve as our cultural heritage. Purposes of this study are to search the ways of preservation and development of them. II. Research Method 1. Research on Characteristics of Gyubang crafts for wedding ceremony. o Classification of wedding Gyubang crafts according to use o Analysis characteristics according to items 2. Proposals of preservations and applications of wedding Gyubang crafts o Suggest some ideas for preservations and applications of wedding Gyubang crafts o Develop some works and culture products applied suggested ideas. o Exhibition of developed works and culture products Ⅲ. Results and Discuss 1. Research on preservations and applications of wedding Gyubang crafts As results of those, three ways were suggested.as follows : 1) Using wedding Gyubang crafts by traditional methods and then keep them as souvenirs. 2) Compensation and modification of traditional wedding Gyubang crafts to be modern styles and purposes. After using them for wedding ceremony, applying to another fashion items, 3) Application images of wedding Gyubang crafts to different parts as like as developing culture products, textile design, fashion design and so on.. 2. Proposals of preservations and applications of wedding Gyubang crafts 1) The way of using wedding Gyubang crafts by traditional methods and then keeping them as souvenirs. Wedding Gyubang crafts had some symbolic meanings, traditionalism and totemism deeply, were appreciation of the beautiful, delicate and excellent sewing skill. In order to preserve their yslee2@ynu.ac.kr 108

110 traditionalism, wedding Gyubang crafts were made as like as original forms with traditional materials, and used them in wedding ceremony, and then set in framed and hung on the wall. Several works as like as Honseogi-bo, Obang-jumeony, Sujeo-jumeony. Golmu. Hagoanmade were suggested with this way. 2) The way of compensation and modification of traditional wedding Gyubang crafts to be modern styles and purposes. After using them for wedding ceremony, applying to another fashion items. For giving modernity and multipurpose to them, fashion trend was applied to their original figures, colors, materials and so on, and used them in wedding ceremony, and then used another fashion items. Several works as like as made with this way and suggested. For example, Girugi-bo was modified color, used for wedding and then applied table runner or clothing, Saseong-bo and Yeungil-bo were sown like envelopes, used for wedding and then applied wallets, Napae-Ham was modified to modern colors, used for wedding and then applied wrap skirt, Ogol-jimeony was modified material, color and shape, used for wedding and then applied a pocket for fragrant herbs, Banl-jip was modified color and shape, used for wedding and then treaded with necklace for applying pendant, and etc.. 3) The way of application their images to different parts. In order to expand their use, applications them to other fields were suggested as like as developing some culture products and using motif for textile design. Several works made with this way suggested: Bseons(Korean traditional socks) were made to miniature for accessories of cellular phone and Banlbangseok(Korean traditional pin cushoin) for culture products. Images of Gul-jumeony, Obangjumeony, Girugl-bo, Hagwan, Norigae and Golmu were used motifs for textile design and developed digital printed fabrics. IV. Conclusion Firstly, three ways were suggested for preserving and applying wedding Gyubang crafts ; using wedding Gyubang crafts by traditional methods and then keep them as souvenirs, compensation and modification of traditional wedding Gyubang crafts to be modern styles and purposes. After using them for wedding ceremony, and then applying to fashion items. Application images of wedding Gyubang crafts to different parts as like as developing culture products, textile design and fashion design. Secondly, some works and products applied three ways of preservations and applications of wedding Gyubang craftswere developed. Thirdly, the exhibition of developed works and products as results of this study will be held from 12th to 19th, December in this year, and estimate and verify them. References Youn-Soon Lee (2008). A study on the Current Trend and Implication for Development of Gyubang crafts, Journal of the Korea Fashion &Costume Design Association, 10(3). Youn-Soon Lee (2012). A Study on Gyubang Crafts for Wedding Ceremony. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 13(2). Hur, Dong-Ha(2004). Bojagi's Simple Elegance, The Museum of Korean Embroidery. 109

111 D9 A Study on the Lasa Aesthetics in Musical Film Costume of Korea and India - Focused on the <The Fox Family> and <Dancing Muthu>- Mi-Jeong Kwon Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Pusan National University, Korea I. Introduction With the flow of globalization, it becomes more important than before to understand other country's life and culture as well. South Korea is not in exception either. According to a recent record, the immigrant in South Korea is about 1.2 million, accounting 2.5% of all population. Among to it, exactly ten thousands Indians reside in Korea. Although India has a great potential with its long history and over a billion people, it did not take long time that the culture begins to be known in South Korea. Therefore, it is thought to be reasonable to share feelings through the channel 'films', to let us understand, cooperate and help each other with them. In this study, it tried to compare the costumes in Indian musical films with Korea's by the view of Lasa of India. People selected as a Korean film, <The Fox Family, 2006>, which did not go for success in business goal. However, the second Musical film, <The Dancing Muthu, 1995>was chosen as an Indian film, which showed the variety class of Indian society well and supported people know the India film in Korea and Japan. For the study, the investigation of 'Lasa', the oldest ideology of aesthetics in India, and understand how the 'Lasa' is showed in both countries films in the view of comparative aesthetics. And as the way of the study, NᾱṭyᾱŚᾱtra(Jae Suk Lee, 2004), shown as the Lasa aesthetic theory book, and a precedence study paper. Moreover, we will deeply study several literatures through the websites and analysis the costume in two DVDs. The following <Table 1> shows that the 8 types of Lasa which have the appreciation of art and the explanation of emotions. <Table 1> Kinds of Lasa that fashioned the various emotions Lasa Lasa of love-attachment Emotion Express Line, Make-upand Act. Longing, Love, Sexual Chastity, Affection Lasa of joy Express Line, Make-upand Act. Joy, Smile, Comedy, Humor, Ridicule Lasa of anger Express Line, Make-upand Act. Occurred Extortion, Humiliation, Jealousy, Revenge coming from Injustice. Lasa of sorrow Separation those who want each other, Heart-broken, Physical emaciation, Expression of wealth loss. Lasa of hero Fighting and action, Expressed the hero in a generous and good deeds. Lasa of amazement Seeing divine being, Novelty, Awesome achievement, Shock and Dismay Lasa of hatred Blood, Bug and stool gives hatred, Disgust, Weary Lasa of fear Dread, Fear, A Fear of Risk, Express from making mistake. mjkwon@pusan.ac.kr 110

112 II. Rasa Aesthetics NᾱṭyᾱŚᾱtra is oldest theory in India which written B.C. 2 century to A.D. 2 century. This book was released 36chapters of English version to the world by Gosh in And also, it published Korean version in The book gives the oldest and most abundant material of ancient Indian art & aesthetics. Specifically, it referred the stage structure and installation, acting method, costumes, makeup, dance, music, and the Lasa that fashioned the various emotions (feelings, bhāva), etc The meaning of Lasa was used as Juice, flavor, beauty, core or essence, and Moksa & extreme joy. However, from the NᾱṭyᾱŚᾱtra, Lasa experience refers to the sense, mind and spirit, and tasting art. In other words, the taste is equal as Lasa ; it applied to both how to create art and how to listen. III. Results and Conclusions Results and conclusion of this research are as follow: First of all, a taste, the important thing with an aesthetic sense in Lasa is an emotions and feel and it also communicates with Western aesthetic sense. The 8types of Lasa is almost as equal as our country s joy, anger, sorrow, pleasure, love, hated and avarice. Secondly, the Musical Movie genres focus on making emotion as evocation. Therefore both movies show the 8 types of Lasa emotion. The running time of <The Fox Family> is 101mins, and <The Dancing Muthu> is 188mins. Moreover, it was showing a slightly more 8 types of Lasa emotion in <The Dancing Muthu>. Thirdly, The <The Fox Family> s overall costume used dyes and trim costumes to produce & direct correct atmosphere, and the costume expressed more on situation and personality than local customs or status. However, on <The Dancing Muthu>, Mainly Girl s costume used India s traditional clothes & ornaments and Man s were equally showed traditional clothes & modern clothes. In addition, a status & role is influencing to costume more than situation and character. It indicates a various kinds of overlap Lasa emotion through the changing movie scene without probable scene. In these 2 films, acting method, song with costume and ornaments influence to expression of Lasa emotion. Fourthly, the Lasa appears on <The Fox Family> had been shown anger, hatred, sorrow and fear than love-attachment, hero and amazement. A Lasa of Love-Attachment, it highly suggestive the marriage with Love-attachment feeling by woman s red legging or white dress veil & mans to wear tuxedo. A Lasa of Joy discovers ludicrous suit waiters costume. A Lasa of Anger, it directed a scene of the detective with dark tone of Burberry and youngest sister with stripe and checked socks. A Lasa of Sorrow, entirely grey tone, ruffled hem and lace on the skirt and tight white pants, it had diaphanously chiffon on arm and straight hair. A Lasa of Hero, at the scene cheated death into act of bravery, wears dyeing a various colors, marbling and stripe pants. A Lasa of Hatred had been expressed amazement by green costume. A hatred and ghastliness felt by youngest sister who wear red-cloak and loose hair. A Lasa of Fear & Horror, it evoked horror by the azure jumper, check pants, and geometric pattern. Lastly, a Lasa-emotions appears on <The Dancing Muthu> which the Lasa of Love-Attachment expressed a several colorful traditional clothes and 6 mins of dance and song. A Lasa of Joy, the upper class wears white and the lower class wears the ridiculous baggy clothes and abnormal ornaments. The Anger showed the indignation by dark-red, no ornaments and dark green color. A Lasa of Sorrow, it represented a western beauty of sadness in common with Grey costume. A Lasa of Hero, for a man, the white color for a top coat and the azure, black, fold-sleeve, and sneakers are for low pants. However, a Lasa of Hatred used dark red and dark blue. A Lasa of Fear presented a color of grey, dark blue, dark green, striped pattern, check pattern, plaid pattern, and red belt. This study suggested that India Lasa aesthetics could apply to costume in film, play and drama. Moreover, compare to apply the Western Aristotle s Theory and Oriental NᾱṭyᾱŚᾱtra theory. Look forward aesthetic perspective to analyze a costume to position comparison between East and West. The general goal of Lasa aesthetics and normal aesthetics are, do not cage us in spirit & rationality. In addition, we can consider opening mind to emotions & feelings, to free ourselves, and communicate with each other. 111

113 D10 A Study on Chinese Paintings Represented in Modern Fashion Jeom-Soon Yoon Dept. of Fashion Design, Honam University, Korea Human beings cannot live without wearing clothes from cradle to grave. As times have changed into a civilized society, clothes have also changed a lot. At first, we, human being, wore clothes to simply protect our bodies from natural environments. However, nowadays, clothes need to satisfy various desires such as looking stylish, looking beautiful, and being suitable for purposes. Accordingly, clothes have been developed to be complex, creative, and innovative in terms of material, silhouette, color, type, purpose, and the like. Wearing clothes that are made by incorporating paintings into fashion designs has a very long history regardless of the west and the east. In particular, Chinese paintings, which are called oriental paintings, have a very long history and were created a lot by painters. There are many different types of Chinese paintings, such as figure painting, landscape painting, painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects, each of which has a distinct form of expression. Painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects are symbolic means for wishing wealth and honor, success of descendents, or harmony in families, and thus become decorative paintings widely used in court. This study was conducted to realize harmonies between eastern and western cultures and between past and modern cultures through clothing by incorporating painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, painting of flowers and insects, etc. into contemporary clothing designs. First, I studied the theory of Chinese paintings, particularly, the occurrence theory, types, painting techniques, and subjects of Chinese paintings, through many documents. I also studied how well and creatively the traditional beauty of Chinese paintings was expressed in modern clothing in recent S/S ㆍ F/W Collections and many other cases to which the motives of painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects have been applied. Together with the study on the theory of Chinese paintings, I also studied expressed images, colors, expression techniques, expressed parts, and the like of flowers, birds, and butterflies on fashion designs through an analysis of modern clothing design cases to which the motives of painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects have been applied. Accordingly, I found that paintings of flowers in fashion design collection works have expressed the beauty, elegance, and splendor of flowers as women's noble figures, romantic atmospheres, and cute images. In the fashion design collection works, red and pink colors were frequently used, and a gradation effect was applied to express the naturalness of flowers. Three-dimensional techniques such as printing and pasting were also frequently used, and they were applied to waists, shoulder parts, and skirt hems. Next, I found that the fashion designs to which paintings of flowers and birds have been applied, expressed the beauty, splendor, elegance, and natural image of feathers of birds. The feathers of birds hae@honam.ac.kr 112

114 were expressed in simple colors such as white and beige, and also colored in gold to express the mysteriousness of the feathers. The feathers of birds are usually expressed using embroidery, printing, and pasting techniques and three-dimensional shaping, and moving figures of birds were vividly expressed on the entire part of clothing or the top and skirt hem of clothing. Finally, I found that tiny and light images of butterfly were expressed a lot in fashion designs to which butterfly paintings, which I mainly studied from among paintings of flowers and insects, have been applied. In most clothes, womanliness and elegance were emphasized, and dark colors were used as base colors to emphasize the splendor of only butterflies or the splendor of the entire clothing. Thin fabrics were used to express the lightness and fluidness of butterflies, or a butterfly was printed on the entire clothing or expressed abstractly. In some clothes, a pasting technique was used. In most fashion design cases, fabrics on which the traditional motives of painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects are printed as a pattern are used in modern clothing, or clothing is embroidered or is attached with three-dimensional adornment. As such, the traditional motives of painting of flowers, painting of flowers and birds, and painting of flowers and insects were represented in various ways such as realistic expression based on creative ideas using such various materials and abstract expression due to modifications of the traditional motives. 113

115 D11 A Study of the Scarf Design Combined with Op Art and Geometrical Pattern of Traditional Ddeoksal Sun Young Kim Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, Korea The contemporary society could be characterized as design culture of which originality becomes competitiveness. It could be a good foundation of design to have a switchover in order to inherit and develop the traditional elements and view them in a forward-looking sense. Especially, the geological pattern in traditional ddeoksal is an aesthetical product found in our ancestral routine life and has our own unique image. It has also sort of a formative element in harmony with op art image. In this research, through combination of Vasarely's works among the op artists and geometrical pattern in traditional ddeoksal, some motive designs were developed and from which the scarf design was introduced. Literature review and graphic programs, Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3, were taken for the research method. Op art is a short for optical art. This is one of the art genres, expressing the pure formative elements with line, color and plane by using the perceptual illusion when a certain energy gives impetus to retina. Op art is a perceptual art creating a repeated pattern based on form and color, which gives illusive effects that cause the dynamic rhythm and hallucinatory illusion along with geometrical abstract beauty. This art has provided a turning point as a brand-new concept in art mode. Ddeoksal is kind of a tool like a seal used to make a pattern on rice cake, which is often called as 'ddeokson', 'ddeokbon', or 'byeonghyeong.' Ddeoksal is a utensil related to ddeok, a rice cake essential to wealth worship or ancestrial worship ceremony. It was considered as one of the important tools in our ancestry's daily routine life. Patterns carved on it belong to a life history, reflecting on our peculiarity true to life. This has an imbedded meaning for exorcism and sorcery as well and can be a sign of critical cultural heritage. Patterns on it mainly stand for riches, honors, longevity and happiness. Again, those can be classified into flower pattern, animal pattern, letter pattern, geometrical pattern, and mixed pattern. These are expression media imbedded with unique life customs and aesthetic sense of our own and the visual motives with which modified format can be redesigned as newly modernized motive for a limitless possibility. In this study, works of Victor Vasarely, a typical artist in op art, were selected Zebres, Deuton- R.8, Yapoura-2, Vega blue, Eridan and some traditional ddeoksal patterns such as taegeuk shape and geometrical shape. With all these combined, a composite set of 11 motives was suggested so that they could show the combined image of both op art and traditional trait in abstract and geometrical sense. With a view to the design of combined motives, shapes were simplified with images from op art and geometry template in the traditional ddeoksal. Also, two motives were coordinated in harmony in order to realize the looks and feels of graphical modernization and sophistication. Colors were referred to from those applied in 2011 trend and op art works. Other color layouts were also taken such as tone-in-tone, tone-on-tone, same color arrangement, and gradation for modern and elaborate sense.for the scarf design, regular tetragon and rectangle were processed in two forms. To put stress on each set based the combined motives, the layout had a ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr 114

116 highlighted motive at the center or on the rim of scarf. the transformed images could be expressed through motive distortion with such effects as scale-up, scale-down, rotation, opacity control, and filtering. Single motive was considered for production of goods. Design for handkerchief or petit scarf was also applied for the dwindled size of scarf design. This research helped to recognize the value on traditional patterns once again and confirm the development possibility by integration of traditional culture and art modes together. Today sees the products with originality and creativity processed through interdisciplinary infusion and cooperation among the different realms in the various ways. A great deal of achievements would be found by looking forward to our cultural heritage with a creative idea and an open view, not just simply with acceptance with the old traditional culture and development as it were. It is expected that competitive designs and products will be obtainable by integrating tangible and intangible traditional culture not only with art mode but also with a wide spectrum of other fields and reinterpreting them into a forward-looking way, which will find us a way to win a global recognition for them. 115

117 D12 Trend and Aesthetic Value of Opening as Open Space Shown in the Modern Fashion Sun Young Kim Department of Fashion Design, Sunchon National University, Korea For humans, wearing the clothes is important not only in terms of function but also in terms of aesthetic aspect to satisfy the internal aspiration. The slit for clothing, which was initiated to put it on easily in the past, highlighted the contemporary culture with aesthetic taste and hedonic luxury during the Renaissance through slash technique. Since then, it has been applied variously as design element attributable for extension of formativeness in fashion until now. This research analyzed the expression trend about the slit which composes the open space by the visual concept and then introduced the imbedded aesthetic value in it. Based on it, this work aims at showing the evidence on the slit as a utilizing tool for various design applications and providing the basic materials in order to develop the creative design production in the fashion area in the future. Specifically, for the theoretical background in this research, the concept of slit and its chronological changes were reviewed through literature. For the empirical analysis on the slit, a total of 226 designs with its application were analyzed from collection pieces in the four major collections including Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2012S/S. Meaning of 'to lay open' is confined to the visual approach, not to the semantic approach, in this research of fashion design. As to the concept for opening, it is used as a broad sense for this work that includes slash, slit, and opening altogether, whereas the slash applied to knitwear or the cutout expressed in a laser-cutting is excluded here. As a result of analysis, the opening came up in the various appearances including a slash in the past, a thin cutting line embedded in clothing, an element line as part of clothing, and variation with subsidiaries like button or zipper. It was also found that its application extends to the whole kinds of garment and that this is used as a new way to generate the figurative beauty through diverse expression techniques. Types of opening appeared as a slash, slit, or a mix of them. These were applied to many different items of clothing, and among which, one-piece or dress was adopted most for application. Out of the applied parts of opening, location of upper body was applied most. In detail, various parts were adopted including leg, back, sleeve, or whole with upper and lower overall were also applied. In regard to space form, perpendicularity was used most frequently. But other various forms like cross and geometrical pattern were also used as well as curve, oblique line and horizontality. As to the arrangement of opening, single type was most frequently used. However, in addition to it, other types were also applied, producing both the functionality and the decorative detail such as bilateral symmetry, free irregularity, and a combination of regular and repeated layout which makes an effect of single pattern. Aesthetic values imbedded in opening were revealed as functionality, sensuality, spatiality, and decorativeness. First, opening entails the functional value as one of the detailed roles for convenience of movement or action regarding the wearing of clothing. Second, the body exposed through opening space generates sort of a psychologically subtle curiosity to peep into it and this represents the sensual value with an indirect revelation of female body. Third, the opening space is an open space which ksy6341@sunchon.ac.kr 116

118 deepens the spatial dimension between clothing and human body physically and psychologically, provides a cubically spatial effect from overlapping among the clothes, and changes as transformable occupation. These characteristics reflect the spatial value giving a newly added formative beauty inbetween the body and clothing. Fourth, the opening attracts attention from reshaping on to the 3- dimensional body and clothing via diverse forms and expression techniques as a stimulant, and at the same time, has a decorative value as formative space. Namely, this opening played a role to show off luxury or indicate decorative value with extended human body expression through slash technique for the costume during Renaissance and express the punk or deconstructive style in the modern era. However, its type shown in the contemporary times gives more of the value of functionality, decorativeness, and sensuality with sophisticated cutting and technique and functions as a way of formative tool indicating the value of spatiality that makes formative space between body and clothing rather than the expression of resistant, defiant, and deconstructive image. Through the research process, it was found that such a detailed element as opening is valuable in fashion design and that this provides the basic material for reference in taking initiative in further developing the design. The opening, simply regarded a function or a decorative add-on among details, has brought forth an extended aesthetic value in the modern fashion, expressing a unique formative beauty. As such, with regard to development of fashion design with many layout components and details in clothing, it is expected to widen the creative and aesthetic realm by looking into future with an open viewpoint. 117

119 D13 A Study on Fashion Design Applying Chinese Armors Sukhee Lee Department of Fashion Design, Honam University, Korea I. Purpose of Research Being inspired by armor is familiar ground for contemporary fashion designers. Chinese armors, which have various styles and functions deserve attention for the creation of fashion design, In order to provide referable materials for the combination of armors and fashion design and to develop fashion design applying Chinese armors. This research aimed to explore various evolution elements of Chinese armors to find out the characteristics of Chinese armors in form and materials from ancient times to Qing Dynasty, the period before the establishment of Republic of China. II. Methodology The research method started from literature research to collect the related literature material in Chinese armors. Besides, it referred to the achieved research result at home and aboard, does the research on the basic of related collection photos and picture information. Based on the theoretical considerations and cases studies on fashion collections applying armors, I was intended to provide integrate Chinese armors with modern fashion design. III. Considerations and Results 3.1 The Change of Chinese Armors Through the overview in the change of form and materials of Chinese armors in each period. The summary of characteristics of Chinese armor as below: Chinese armors had been developed in two different kinds; the ceremonial armors and the battle armors. Ceremonial armor was worn to show the rigid dignity and power while battle armor was designed to protect body at real wars. In ancient times, the armors were made mainly from leather, along with the development of ironmaking technology leather armors were placed by iron-made and bronze-made bones. The armor types reached 13 kinds in Tang Dynasty. The armors were made of fabrics such as cotton and silk. In Yuan Dynasty, the coat type armors, which were the Mongolian armors and helmets, were good for quick actions. As the exercise of gunpowder in Ming Dynasty, the battle armors needed to be changed from heavy armors such as mail armors and plate armors to light weight armors. When Qing Dynasty, the widely use of gun and cannon, the protect function of armor rapidly became weak. In Qing Dynasty armors finished the change. From the characteristics of Chinese armors in history, we can see they are the results evolved from the basic of science and technology development. On one hand, armors were closely related with weapons, along with that, their function changes. On the other hand, since the war and culture communication between China and neighboring countries, Chinese armors were similar in form with those ones in some regions like Korea. leesh@honam.ac.kr 118

120 3.2 General Discussion of Fashion Design Applying armors Fashion design from the look of armors in recent collections have been expressed by many designers. Balmain, Hussein Chalayan and Burberry Prorsum presented outfits applying armors in diverse ways in their 2007 F/W collections. Clothing with stiff fabrics(felt wool, sculptural leather) designed by Viktor & Rolf in F/W season of 2011 displayed avant-garde image by applying armors. 3.3 Development of Fashion Design Applying Chinese Armors Based on the theoretical considerations and cases studies on fashion collections applying armors, the results of the research were reflected on design-based formative factors of Chinese armors. I developed huge-shouldered, metal-epauletted and stud decorated coat and skinny cropped pants. The work was constructed through draping technique included upper-widened tailored collar and raglan sleeves. The primary technique used in this work was quilting for making highly padded form. Black color was effective in exploring image of armors. So quilted black leather, which looked practically swordproof, decorated with studs had been chosen as a main fabric. Metallic fabrics and knit crafted to look like chain mail mimicked articulated plates of armor. With this process, the work was kept exaggerated shape with an avant-garde feeling. IV. Conclusion Chinese armors with various types were chosen as the material for modern fashion design development. Through the overview in the change of the form and materials of Chinese armors in each period. This research would provide the useful information in understanding formative characteristics and the aesthetic values expressed in Chinese armors. References kim, jeongja(1998). A study on traditional honor armor for korean military guard. The international journal of costume culture 1(1), Zhou, xuan(2012). A study on the history of Chinese Military Costume. Honam University, Graduate school, Master Thesis. Chris peers(2005). Watching Chinese history through war(whangbo, jongwoo Trans.) Sumaksae publishing Co. Wha, mae(2008). Dress and Its ornaments, Daega publishing Co. 119

121 C1 Development of Men s Slacks Pattern Drafting Method and Automatic Pattern Drafting Program for MTM Production In Hwa Kim 1), Yun Ja Nam 2), Sung Min Kim 3) 1) Department of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea 2) Department of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University, Korea 3) Department of Polymer & Fiber System Engineering, Chonnam National University, Korea The purpose of this study is to develop a customized pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. There were a lot of studies about automatic pattern drafting method for MTM production so far but most of them were not realized in apparel fields. So we tried to develop an automatic pattern drafting method of men s trouser and apply it to Korean Air Force service uniform production. Before developing a customized trouser pattern drafting method, researchers analyzed existing pattern making textbooks on men s wear and referred to the existing trouser patterns of air force production companies to settle where the human body parts are to be measured or calculated by the pattern drafting formula. A preparatory experiment using ease amount of existing air force production company patterns were conducted and the 1 st study pattern drafting method were settled. Two times of wearing test were conducted using 1 st study pattern and the pattern drafting method was revised to develop the final study pattern drafting method. To verify developed pattern drafting method, motion suitability evaluation and ease amount evaluation were conducted using final study pattern and exiting air force production company pattern. The final study pattern drafting method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ and Korean air force is currently producing their service uniform trousersusing this program. There were fitting problems among the customers who have extreme body shape or fitting taste. To deal with this problem, researchers developed a pattern modification method and added it to the pattern drafting program. The results of this study indicated as follows: For the1 st study pattern drafting method, 4 parts in total were selected as the human body parts to be measured; waist circumference (omphalion), hip circumference, waist height (omphalion), crotch height. There were 6 parts that use calculated dimensions; front crotch breadth, back crotch breadth, waist to hip length, waist to crotch length, knee circumference, hem circumference. To settle a ease amount of the 1 st study pattern, ease amount of exiting air force production company trouser patterns were investigated and the average ease amount of waistcircumference (omphalion), hip circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference and these ease amounts are applied to the study pattern. The waist circumference had 2% of ease allowance that was needed to cover the increment of waist circumference due to the thickness of shirts fabric inside the waist belt. The hip circumference had 10% of ease allowance which was average ease value of existing air force patterns. The ease allowances of knee circumference and hem circumference reflect ratio of the knee and hem circumference size of exiting air force pattern to the hip circumference of the human body. The knee circumference of the 1 st study pattern had the size of 55% of hip circumference of the human body and the hem yunja@snu.ac.kr 120

122 circumference was 50% of hip circumference of the human body. The pattern drafting formula to calculate waist to crotch length was waist height (omphalion) - crotch height. The waist dart amount was adjustable into three classes according to hip circumference waistcircumference (omphalion) size of the human body. The final study pattern drafting method was developed by conducting two times of wearing test and pattern correction processes. The subjects of the 1 st wearing test were 7 air force servicepersons who were in their 20s to 40s. The corrections of the pattern drafting method after the 1 st wearing test are as follows: (a) The ease allowance of hip circumference was adjusted from 10% to 8%. The waist dart amount was reduced according to the reduced hip circumference. The center-front line had the dart range of 0.5~1.3cm and the back waist line had the dart range of 1.4~4.0cm. (b) The calculation formula of waist to crotch height was changed from waist height (omphalion) - crotch height to hip circumference/4+1cm. This change was needed because of poor body measuring skills of air force servicepersons who was to conduct the body measuring task. The measuring difficulty of crotch height was too high for the air force servicepersons who didn t major in clothing. (c) Instead of waist height, Leg side length was used to settle the trouser length of the pattern because Korean air force had no measuring tools to measure height size items. Leg side length can be measured using tape measure. (d) The calculation formula of knee circumference was adjusted to 0.52 hip circumference and hem circumference was adjusted to 0.48 hip circumference. The 2 nd wearing test was conducted using the test samples reflecting the changes of 1 st wearing test. The subjects of the 2 nd wearing test were 10 air force servicepersons who were in their 20s to 40s. The corrections of the pattern drafting method after the 2 nd wearing test are as follows: (a) The ease amount of hip circumference had two options to cover more various fitting tastes. The normal option had 7.5~8.0% of ease allowance and the loose option had 9.5~10.5% of ease allowance. The ease amount of back crotch breadth also can be adjusted according to the option changes. (b) Knee circumference and hem circumference of the pattern can be adjusted according to the hip ease option changes. (c) The position of waist belt of the trouser can be adjusted into two waist level options. The high waist level option had 3cm longer waist to crotch length and trouser length than the normal waist level option. (d) Concerning the wearer who has body type of flat hip and prominent abdomen, hip circumference - waistcircumference(omphalion) drop were divided into two zones(below 25%, beyond 25%) and applied different back crotch breadth and center-front dart amount to the zones respectively. Below 20% drop zone had lesser back crotch breadth as much as -0.3cm and no dart at center-front line. The final pattern drafting method was developed by reflecting the changes during the two times of wearing tests. To compare the final study pattern with the existing air force production company pattern, motion adaptability evaluation and ease allowance evaluation were conducted. The subjects of the evaluations were 15 air force servicepersons who were in their 20s to 50s. The motion adaptability evaluation used 5 motions; bending upper body 90 o, walking fast, lifting right knee 90 o, crouching, sitting in a chair and 5-point lickert scale of (1)very uncomfortable- (2)uncomfortable-(3)moderate-(4)comfortable-(5)very comfortable. The ease allowance evaluation were conducted on 7 part of trouser; waist, hip, thigh, knee, hem, waist to crotch length, 121

123 trouser length and used 5-point lickert scale of (1)very short or very small-(2)short or small- (3)suitable-(4)long of large-(5)very long or very large. <Figure 1> and <Figure 2> show the result of motion adaptability evaluation and ease allowance evaluation. On motion adaptability evaluation, the final study pattern showed better results in all evaluation motions than the existing company patterns. On ease allowance evaluation, the final study pattern and the existing company patterns shows no apparently different results. Therefore we can say that the final study pattern is perceived to have a similar fitness or appearance to the existing pattern and have a better motion adaptability bending upper body 90 degrees walking fast Motion Adaptability Evaluation lifting right knee 90 dgree crouching sitting in a chair <Figure 1> Result of motion adaptability evaluation Mean of Final study pattern Mean of Existing pattern 4.0 Ease Allowance Evaluation waist hip thigh knee hem waist to crotch length trouser length <Figure 2> Result of ease allowance evaluation Mean of Final study pattern Mean of Existing pattern The final study pattern drafting method was converted into an automatic pattern making system using C++. Using this program, a trouser pattern can be drafted and plotted only by putting wearer s body sizes. The wearer can select his favorite silhouette and waist belt position using hip circumference ease amount option and waist level option. The program plots reference point on x-y coordinate and draw a straight line or b-spline curve between the reference points to draw trouser pattern. <Figure 3> shows the trouser pattern drafted by the developed program. Until May of 2012 about 1,800 air force service uniform trousers have been produced using our program. The rate of repairing level was about 5%. There were difficulties to cope with the various body types or fitting tastes during the MTM production of the trousers. The customers who cannot be covered by the final study pattern drafting method caused increment of repairing level. So we developed a pattern modification method of the drafted pattern to reduce repairing level of the product. Once the repair work carried out, we recorded down the repairing amount of the trouser and made a database of repair amount. When a re-order of previously repaired product occurs, the pattern drafting program loads the repair amount data form the database and modify the pattern according to the repair amount. This pattern modification system is 122

124 based on a pattern grading methods, so each reference point of the pattern is moved vertically or horizontally on x-y coordinate. <Figure 4> shows the pattern modification result. The modification amount of <Figure 4> were Waist -3.0cm, Hip -4.0cm, Thigh -3.0cm, Knee -2.0cm, Hem - 1.0cm, Waist to crotch length -2.0cm, Trouser length -3cm. <Figure 3> Drafted trouser pattern using developed program Green Line: Original pattern,red Line: Modified pattern <Figure 4> Pattern modification result The significance of this study is the realization of MTM production using 100% automated pattern drafting system. There still remain some fitting problems among wearers who have extreme body types or fitting taste, we hope to improve the pattern drafting system and solve these problems. Acknowledgments : This work was supported by the Standardized Technology Development Project Establishment of Digital Human and Apparel Product Standards Using IT and Fashion Convergence Technology (B ) funded by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy in South Korea. 123

125 C2 Light Weight Velvet Wedding Dress Development to fit Chinese Women s Taste through Fashion Stream Collaboration Chil Soon Kim 1), Kyung Jin Lee 2), Yusoon Lee 3) 1) Department of Textile & Clothing Design, Kyung Hee University, Korea 2) Sposabella, Korea, 3) Fashion In Trend, Korea I. Introduction The Chinese wedding market is huge and growing because of the young generation s tremendous expenditure and new lifestyle. The wedding dress market is different from that of other clothing categories, in that the wedding dress consumers are composed of both indivuals preparing for a wedding and business owners such as wedding photo shops or wedding dress rental shops. Thus the B2B and B2C markets are the target. We are concerned over fabrication for wedding dresses, and design development to satisfy Chinese consumer s needs and wants for global marketing. Traditional material for the wedding dress is mostly silk satin, tulle, and organza. These fabrics tend to have a problem to expand in the market due to the lack of durability and the extended amount of time needed to complete cleanings. Our team wished to find new designs and fabrics to utilize in the wedding dress market that would be both affordable and marketable. Therefore, Kim (2012) researched Chinese preference of wedding dress designs and fabrics in order to determine the preferences amongst Chinese consumers. The study was accomplished through Chinese consumer surveys. The results of the survey produced data which determined the Chinese consumer s preference in design details and fabric (Kim, 2012). Therefore the objective in our research was to design wedding dresses made with a new design that fit Chinese women s tastes and remained reasonably price through the fashion stream collaboration. II. Methodology Three collaboration fashion stream teams were involved in the development of wedding dress design to be successful in China. This study followed design driven product development model (Fig. 1) which involves many steps such as search, concept development, design ideation, refine/select, and impletion, to develop wedding dresses for Chinese women. A survey was done by the Kyung Hee University research team on the design/material preference and fabrication was done by Yongdo Velvet company which, is the most famous brand with 50 years history, and design development was processed by Sposabella, who targets upscale consumers in Korea. One result of the survey found that velvet is the most preferred material amongs Chinese consumers. However, velvet is not a common material in wedding dress design due to the need for delicate care and its heavy weight (over 2Kg). The increased weight is due to the yardage of fabric needed in a wedding dress which is more than 15 yds per piece depending on style. In order to utilize velvet we need to improve the properties of the fabric by decreasing weight, providing antisoil properties and resilience. Youngdo Velvet attempted to solve the problems of velvet for our fashion stream collaboration. They treated a burnout finish for an image creation, antisoil properties, and a cskim@khu.ac.kr 124

126 special treatment to improve shape retention. Objective evaluation of fabric properties was conducted to ensure performance for a wedding dress.sposabella focused on developing design concept and sewing technique not to slip due to the piles as well as embellishment technique to create something unique. They employed a razor cutting technique for relief floral embellishment to manipulate fabric and special pearl beading treatment with a cutting edge mechanical instrument. III. Results and Discussion The results of the survey show that most Chinese women want to look luxurious in their wedding dress. Women preferred velvet to shiny satin and a unique style to differentiate them from other brides. In addition to preferring velvet, women also preferred oversized floral patterns. Yongdo developed three kinds of 100% polyester velvet to have light weight and antisoil properties with coating and resin treatment. One of them is Warp 50D/36, 24.4g/yd; Weft 50D/36, 25.6g/yd; Pile 100D/96, 109g/yd. Objective evaluation shows that fastness to washing, abrasion, and light was over 4 grade, and the value of T.H.V was Based on the key results completed by the collaborative research teams, Sposabella implemented a feminine design concept with a princess look. To avoid pulling out pile end at the cut edge of velvet, special trimming was employed. The razor cutting process was done after transferring floral motifs onto the velvet surface, and pearl beading was completed with an instrument that adheres the pearl beads to the fabric without the use of thread. Fig. 2 shows examples of white and colored dresses for a wedding occasion, which were designed and produced by Kyung Jin Lee, CEO of Sposabella in Korea. Some of the dresses were developed by mix and match of velvet, tulle, and laces. These dresses were presented at the Shanghai Wedding Exhibition to great acclaim. Fig. 2. Examples of Wedding Dress developed by Kyung Jin Lee, CEO in Sposabella 125

127 Fig. 3. Presentation at the Shanghai Wedding Exhibition in 2012 IV. Conclusion Understanding consumers is very important in a good design development and marketing process. Through the fashion stream collaboration teams, sensibly fitted wedding dresses were developed. Not only innovative but also market oriented approach in design was an important factor in success. Fashion is an art, but it should have suitability and functionality. All of these factors resulted in Sposabella s opening in a Shanghai luxury department store after the designer s successful showing at the Shanghai Wedding Exhibition. The fashion stream collaboration process can contribute to the fashion business in that the collaboration between designer, fabric maker, and consumer researcher provides better results both in design development and marketing. The team s findings in regards to the preference of velvet is just one of the results found through the fashion stream collaboration research and it is evident through Kim s survey that there are many more results that can be used to increase sales. References Kim, C.S., Lee, K. J. Lee, Y.(Aug.2-4, 2011). Research on Velvet Application in Dress for Wedding Dress Development to Target Chinese Luxury Market, Proceeding of 2011 International Conference on Fashion Design and Apparel Industry organized by KSCI, KRIFT, NPUST, Kim, C. S. (2012), Analysis of Wedding Behavior of Chinese Women in their 20's to 30's in Shanghai and Neighboring Cities, Journal of Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 14(12), Kim, C. S.,Yang, H. (2012). Selective Behavior of Wedding Dress according to Women's Lifestyle, Korea Design Forum, 35, Kim, C. S.(May. 2012). Analysis on FW wedding dress design and material preference of 20 to 30 aged Chinese women by demographic variable, Proceedings of 2012 KSCI, 215 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: This research was supported by a grant from the R&D Program of fashion for Textile industry integration funded by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy, Republic of Korea 126

128 C3 Development of Pattern for Combat Uniform Joohyun Lee 1), Yun Ja Nam 2) 1) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea 2) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University, Korea The degree of comfort of the combat uniform is closely connected with the suitability about combat environment. Therefore, the construction of the pattern for combat uniform is very important to the wearer s performance. This study aims to analyze the characteristics of combat training motions and develop the upper garment pattern of combat uniform in order to improve the degree of comfort in combat environment. Three steps were followed in the development procedure of pattern for upper garment of combat uniform. First, we analyzed 3D joint angle and body surface changes according to combat training motions with males in their 20s. The 3D joint angle of neck, shoulder, elbow, and truck joints for 12 combat training motions was analyzed. Second, the motions that showed the maximum angle for each joint were scanned by using Artec 3D scanner MHT(Visiontech Inc., Korea). Third, Based on the scanned data, the minimum ease amount calculated through body surface stretching ratio analysis. Finally, based on these results, the pattern for the upper garment of combat uniform was developed. First, as a result of 3D joint angle analysis, 5 motions were selected at the time of maximum angle through frame analysis. In the grenade throwing training, stand-up throwing that had the maximum angle in neck abduction, shoulder abduction, and trunk rotation and bending throwing that showed the maximum angle of neck flexion were selected. In a hit-and-run attack training, high-jump that had the maximum angle in shoulder flexion and push-ups that showed the maximum angle of trunk flexion/ extension were selected. In the individual battle, crawling that had the maximum angle in neck extension/ rotation, shoulder extension/ adduction, elbow flexion and trunk abduction was selected. Second, the minimum required ease amount calculated through body surface stretching ratio analysis of combat training motions was applied to the existing shirt pattern to draw a pattern. Application of ease amount was set by classifying the case that applied body surface stretching ratio to a measurement calculation and the case that applied it after reference. Items that applied body surface stretching ratio were 4 including breast width, ease pleats of arm hole, sleeve dart, and gorget width. Measurement calculation items that referred to stretching ratio were 2 including sleeve wrist circumference and side line length. To set up the formula to calculate the front interscye, back interscye, neck bottom width and scye depth selected as the calculated dimension items of combat uniform drawing method, correlation analysis and regression analysis were done on the dimension data of 1,033 men in their 20s through 30s shown in Size Korea. Deduced regression expressions were front interscye = 0.21 chest circumference , back interscye = 0.21 chest circumference , scye depth = (0.26 waist back length)+(0.07 chest circumference) + 0.9, neck bottom width= 0.24 neck circumference Third, the evaluation was conducted to obtain objective evaluation for final development pattern, and with the existing combat uniform for comparison. The final pattern showed better results than existing pattern. yunja@snu.ac.kr 127

129 C4 A Study on Techniques of 3-D Draping Sooim Rha Dept. of Fashion Design, Sangmyung University, Korea. I. Introduction Draping is a pattern production method that takes a fabric of 2-dimension to produce something in 3-dimension using a dress form. However, unlike the existing methods, in this study, I will attempt to study the process of producing patterns for clothing, first, by designing a 2-dimensional fabric using various techniques into a 3-dimension and afterwards by using again a dress form and draping. Although, in such 3-D draping method, it appears as if the draping lines and shapes that are obtained accidentally are being used, the designs are accomplished through already-conceived fabric designs, whereby achieving harmony with the effects that are created by the body curves. The draping method of this study not only can produce patterns through a new and creative draping method but also can produce diverse and free design ideas. Even though it may be the same technique, in accordance with the characteristics of a fabric, i.e., weight, drapability, fabrication properties, etc., new design lines can be produced, and creative pattern methods can be advanced further through the draping fabrication process. In addition, all the lines of the human body can be utilized aggressively in the design, and, by transforming a variety of ideas, diverse silhouettes and configuration lines can be developed. At the preview prior to the 2009 Haute Couture, a lot of designers -Vivien Westwood, Junya Watanabe etc.,-, offered their presentations of the classical haute couture combined with the 3-D idea.therefore the systematic presentations of pattern methods for such configurations are needed. The 3-D draping technique suggested in this study explains the basic principles of pattern methods that are appropriate for the changing trends. By utilizing these, we aspire to provide some guidance for patterns that can be actively utilized in the advancement of designs that are befitting of the always diversely-changing fashion trends. II. Method A raw fabric typically refers to 2-D, in other words, a 2-D fabric is the 360 of planar fabric. The combination of a variety of angles and lengths of fabric is manifested in various 3-D shapes. The 3-D draping basic technique compose of 3 method this study, Line/Shape, Pleat/Gather, Distortion/Displacement. III. Results and Conclusion 1. Line / Shape A raw fabric typically refers to 2-D, in other words, a 2-D fabric is the 360 of planar fabric. The combination of a variety of angles and lengths of lines/shapes is manifested in various 3-D shapes. 2. Pleats/ Gather The Pleats/Gather technique is a draping method that designs various geometric shapes into a variety of pleat types and applies them. A variety of design lines can be configured in accordance with the quantity and the method of Pleats/Gather. 3. Displacement/ Distortion sina@smu.ac.kr 128

130 The Displacement/Distortion is a draping method that, through the cut & sew method of textile, uses and applies shapes/lines that are expressed in the seams and sewing in other locations. When designing using the Distortion, draping is done with a consideration given, if the front and back sides are of different colors or if there are different patterns. By acquiring fundamental 3-D techniques such as these, a limitless number of diverse ideas can be changed freely and be applied in the development of new patterns. Patterns that are obtained from draping can be combined with flat patternmaking to finish the patterns and sometimes these are utilized in design modifications. Reference Connie Amaden-Crawford(1996).The Art of Draping 2ed. Fairchild:New York. Nakamichi Tomoko(2007). pattern Magic vol.2 Bunka Press:Tokyo Nakamichi Tomoko(2010). pattern Magic Knit Fabric.Bunka Press:Tokyo Hisako Sato(2009). drape drape.bunka Press:Tokyo Hisako Sato(2010). drape drape 2.Bunka Press:Tokyo 129

131 C5 Prediction of Clothing Formability of Men's Active Sports Jacket from Mechanical Properties Wolhee Do Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chonnam National University, Korea Until the mid-1990s the active sports wear market in Korea was limited. However, during the past twenty years, the market has been consistently growing because of twenty~forty-year-olds who enjoy active sports like MTB, motorsports in their leisure time. Accordingly, it is expected that the scale of the market will continue to rise, therefore many high functional super-strong polyamidematerials likecordura, Oxlan, Taslan, Kevlar, TERAMID, and HITENA for active sports wear are continually being developed. This study was conducted to research clothing formability of men's active sports jacket from mechanical properties. Three types of materials was analyzed through measuring the mechanical properties.the physical properties were measured under standard conditions using the KES-FB system.the results of this study were as follows:the LT values showing tensile properties of the sample fabrics are as follows: (Sample 1), (Sample 2), and (Sample 3) while the tensile property of general nylon fabrics of sports outerwear is 0.86, so it shows that in general the incipient elastic modulus is lower than in nylon fabrics of sports outerwear, and it means that the wearability of the sample fabrics is less comfortable. On examining the WT value, the samples show lower tensile deformative energy than general nylon fabrics for sports outerwear and minor extensibility results. The RT value which shows tensile properties, samples 2 and 3 have higher recoverable power in terms of tensile deformation compared to general nylon fabrics, i.e. they have a higher size stability. The samples rarely exhibit bending deformation compared to general nylon fabrics, and in particular, the B value of sample 1 is higher than other materials, so it exhibits bending deformation even more rarely. The G value which shows the shear property, the value of general nylon fabrics is 4.04 gf cm2 / cm but the values of the sample fabrics are sample 1 (6.96 gf/ cm deg) > sample 3 (4.78 gf/ cm deg) > sample 2 (4.39 gf/ cm deg). Samples 2 and 3 have been shown as at a similar level as general nylon fabrics, and adaptability of movement in sample 1 is very low. The coefficient of the friction (MMD) of general nylon fabrics is 0.003, but the MMD of the sample fabrics are (Sample 1), (Sample 2), and (Sample 3) respectively. It means that the surface of the sample fabrics is rough.examination of the thickness demonstrated the following results: Sample 1 (1.030 mm)> Sample 2 (0.813 mm) > Sample 3 (0.752 mm) in order. The samples have a much thicker texture than do general nylon fabrics (0.186 mm). In terms of weight, results are as follows: Sample 1 (38.62 mg / cm2 )> Sample 3 (37.05 mg / cm2 ) > Sample 2 (31.37 mg / cm2 ) in order; they demonstrate that the samples have a much heavier texture than general nylon fabrics (11.3 mg / cm2 ). Based on all of the above the H.V. (Hand Value) and T.H.V. (Total Hand Value) of the samples were calculatedthe H.V. results show that the sample fabrics are quite stiff because the KOSHI value is generally very high. To put it concretely, Sample 1 > Sample 2 > Sample 3, and so Sample 1 is the stiffest one. On the other hand, NUMERI (Smoothness) and FUKURAMI (Fullness & Softness) values are low as a whole. This means the sample fabrics are not flexible and have a solid surface. According to the results of the T.H.V., Sample 1 ~ Sample 3 are considered unsuited as not falling within the desirable range of mechanical properties in terms of appearance. This fact whdo@chonnam.ac.kr 130

132 demonstrates that Polyamide fabric for motorcycle wear is difficult to handle, and accordingly a high quality of sewing and pattern of size tolerance is demanded in the manufacturing process of motorcycle wear. To sum up the results of the comprehensive T.H.V measurements: the sample fabrics generally exhibited poor hand values. Generally the sample fabrics show various differences from the texture of Japanese-made jackets in the bending and shearing components.the sample fabrics were measured in terms of their durable properties such as tearing resistance, abrasion resistance, and waterproofing. In terms of tearing resistance, all the sample fabrics were found suitable, and research on the tearing resistance according to the direction that divides warp and weft, shows that the tearing resistance of the warp of the 3 sample fabrics are one and the same with a numerical value of (12800 gf), and the tearing resistance of the weft shows that Sample 1, Sample 3 (12800 gf) > Sample 2 (7040 gf).these results show that samples 1 and 3 are extremely strong materials. For waterproofing, Sample fabric 2 (4914 g/ m2 /24hrs) and Sample fabric 3 (4702 g/ m2 /24hrs) were the most suitable. Consequently, the materials for motorcycle wear were shown to be excellent in terms of durable properties such as tearing resistance, abrasion resistance, and waterproofing, but generally demonstrated poor hand value because of coarseness and stiffness. To enhance the fitness of motorcycle wear, improvement in the suitability of the sizing system is required to supplement this defect of materials. 131

133 C6 Development of One-Cut Dress with Cowl Design Myunghee Lee Department of Fashion Design, Pukyong National University, Korea The aim of this research was to generate the developing patterns for creative design without slavish adherence to the traditional style. It was covered the development of one-cut dresswith cowl design. The cowls were in-one with the one-cut dress. The work developed through the drafting methods. The design patterns were generated the variety of pattern shapes. The results were as follows. One-Cut Dress with Cowls was made by joins of side seams and added the side cowl pleated skirt. The three pleated cowls draped at the sides of the skirt created a peg silhouette. The dart excess at the front and back waist are incorporated into the plates of the cowl. It was able to manipulate the basic patterns through the procedure: dividing two parts through the skirt patterns based on the princess line. Front and back bodice patterns joined side seams and waistlines. The side skirt patterns were manipulated to create the side cowls pleated skirt. The work and design pattern were showed through Fig. 1. Fig. 1. One-cut Dress with Cowl and the design pattern One-Cut Dress with Gore-Cowl Skirt was based on the 10-gore skirt pattern. The design was demonstrated the versatility of the gore panels. Cowls fall from each of the joining 10 gores. The cowl depth can vary as can the length of the skirt. Pattern plot and manipulation were as follows: Extend to skirt length. Mark the place where the fall of the cowl starts. Decide cowl depth and height of the raised waistline. The bodice joining the side seams attached the center front waist. The work and design pattern were showed through Fig. 2. leemh@pknu.ac.kr 132

134 Fig. 2. One-cut Dress with Gore-Cowl Skirt and the design pattern Reference Armstrong, H. J. (2000). DRAPING for Apparel Design, New York: Fairchild Publications. Armstrong, H. J. (2000). PATTERNMAKING for Fashion Design (3rd ed.), New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall. Lee, M. H. (2011). Development of one-cut dress based on basic patterns Korea-Russia International Conference Proceedings: KFCDA. Lee, M. H. (2011). Development of Creative Dress Patterns based on Stylelines International Conference( FDAI) Proceedings: KSCI. Lee, M. H. (2012). One-cut dress with cowl Korea-China International Invited Fashion Exhibition (Hangzhou, China): KFCDA. Lee, M. H. (2012). One-cut dress with gore-cowl skirt. The 17 th International Invited Fashion Exhibition of Professors (Helsinki, Finland): KSCI. 133

135 C7 Research on the Actual Condition of Adult-male Products for Urinary Incontinence on the Market Jungsoon Lee 1), Jeongmee Kim 2) 1) Department of Fashion Design, Sangmyung University, Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Pukyong National University, Korea I. Research Purpose Urinary incontinence is a disease, occurring when even a part of bladder, sphincter urethrae, central nerves, and peripheral nerves goes wrong. As a bladder expands from urine, sphincter urethrae automatically contracts to prevent urine from leaking out. As a certain amount of unrine is collected, a signal is transmitted to a nerve to urinate at the right time. When a problem arises in this process, then urinary incontinence occurs. Urinary incontinence is not a life threatening disease, however, it causes negative effects on both social and psychological area. Patients with urinary incontinence suffer from physical difficulties or experience disabilities in personal relationship and psychology like depression. As the number of active and healthy senior consumers with urinary incontinence is increasing, demand for urinary incontinence product is increasing as well. In case of female, there are many kinds of products on the market due to the growth of number suffering from urinary incontinence, caused from childbirth or menopause. However, the traditional products for male are only for the patients with severe symptom. Therefore, this study has a purpose on researching the actual condition of patients' symptoms and products for male patients, and providing basic data for development of male products for urinary incontinence. II. Methods and Contents Symptoms of male patients with urinary incontinence were studied from previous researched. Based on the data from the internet searching about real condition of products for urinary incontinence, we collected products from both online and offline markets. III. Results and Considerations 1) Symptoms of male patients with urinary incontinence There is a significance correlation between experiencing difficulties in urination and quality of health-related life. Thus, the more severe the experience gets, the worse quality of life becomes. As difficulties in urination grow with the age, those for male increase linearly. Especially for male in their 50s or above have much higher rate than female. Psychological anxiety from urinary incontinence is stronger for male than female. However the previous researches usually focused on female patients, leaving extremely fewer researches about male patients. 2) The real condition of male products for urinary incontinence The silver products market is growing for aging society. As social recognition is spreading, annual growth with % is expected. According to the business reports, markets for adult diaper grew by 19% compared to 2011, and product for urinary incontinence underwent rapid growth by 30%. There are various products like panties, urinary pads, or underwear according to consumer's age or characteristics. Among these products, there are disposable product and washable one. For jslee@smu.ac.kr 134

136 disposable products, there are pad type, diaper type, panty type, belt type and condom type. Usually pad types were imported from Japan - <Depend>, <Poise> from Yuhan Kimbery and <Tena> from KleanNara. However, domestic products like <Sense> from Mona Lisa and <Safer> from LG Household & Healthcare are started to be developed. Patients with light symptom tend to prefer pad. Pad for male is not like female s straight-shaped pad, but the upper side is wider than the lower. Different from female product, male prefers condom type. The washable products look similar to the normal panties. They are made of 100% cotton and the part for absorption is made of various materials. There are three different sizes (M, L, LL) with various designs like boxers, briefs, or drawers. Each product differs based on the front absorptive material and patterns. The front absorptive material should have good and rapid absorptiveness, mask the smell fast, have both ventilation and waterproof function and good washability. These characteristics are the factors to distinct one product from the other. The exterior of the products may look similar to the panties but patients express their discomforts about the absorptive layer for daily uses. Most of the products on the markets are from abroad. IV. Conclusion Most of products for urinary incontinence are for the patients who are less mobile. As people with urinary incontinence are getting younger these days, the need for developing more active and comfortable products is increasing. Products should be developed with design that would not interfere with pant's look, and excellent water proof, and materials that can remove smell. Reference Jo, J.S., Choi, J.H. & Heu, E.Y. (2000). A Study of the Development of Disposable Diapers for the Elderly in Need(Ⅱ), Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 38(12), Kim, M. J. (2010). Sympton Experience and Health-related Quality of Life in Adults with voiding dysfunction. Unpublished master's thesis, Yonsei University, Seoul Kim, S. A. (2010). The Relating Factors and Quality of Life of Overactive Bladder Patients in adults. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul Park, E. J. & Han, E. G. (2011). An Analysis on Usage of Disposable Sanitary Products for Adults with Urinary Incontinence -Investigation on Awareness of Urinary Incontinence and Preference Type of Disposable sanitary Diaper by Sex and Age among Adults over Age 40-, Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 17(2),

137 C8 The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferences for Men s Slim-fit Dress Shirts Dong-hyun Kim, Jeong-ah Jang Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University, Korea The purpose of this study is to survey the actual wearing and purchasing conditions, product fit, and design preferences of slim-fit dress shirts for young adult men in their 20~30s, in order to provide basic reference data for the development of basic pattern of slim-fit dress shirts, and dress shirt patterns for each somatotype. For this study, a survey was conducted on the actual product conditions of dress shirts of domestic brands for men through visits to brand shops and pattern work departments for men's wear and interviews at a popular department store in Busan Metropolitan City (Dec ~ Jan. 2012). The survey was conducted on 116 men in their 20s~30s (Mar ~ May 2012) in regard to the actual wearing conditions of slim-fit dress shirts, design preferences, and preferences for slim-fit dress shirts for each somatotype (Type B with a thick waist, Type A with a normal physique, and Type Y with an inverted triangular upper body) based on their respective drop values. PASW Statistics 18 was used for data analysis. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The brand shops for men were classified into two groups Group A, Group B. Group A was comprised of brands that had originally started off as formal dress brands and produced only classic lines, but has now added the slim-fit line to conform to the new consumer needs. By selling both classic-fit and slim-fit shirts, the brands of Group A were shown to be encompassing a large pool of age group from the 20s to the 40s. Furthermore, Group A was indicated to be providing a diversity of collar and cuff designs, and customization services, in part. Based on the interview of an expert of Company 'S' of Group A, the basic production ratio of Slim-fit : Classic-fit for each brand was noted to be 5:5, with the production ratio altering to 6:4 or 3:7 the lower the target age group of the brand. Group B was comprised of new brands targeting the 20s~30s, with most of their items manufactured and sold centering on slim-fit items. Group B was noted to be forming a relatively lower price zone compared to Group A. This indicated the progressively slimming trend of most of the items on the current market for men's wear. As for the question on collar designs currently in fashion, Group A chose the one-button collar and semi-wide collar, while Group B chose the two-button collar, button down collar, and narrow width collar. As for designs, the most popular shirts were slim line designs with a non-darted front and a darted back. Also, many shirts used 90% polyester and 10% mixed spinning for greater activity instead of using 100% cotton. 2. The size system of dress shirts can be displayed using two methods: 'the center back neck to the shoulder tip plus the total arm length' method and the casual method. Most brands were found to be using the casual method of '95, 100, 105' instead of the former method. As a result of comparing the size specification of slim-fit and classic-fit dress shirts of brands that separately indicated either slim-fit or classic-fit on the sizes, the 'center back neck to the shoulder tip' and the 'total arm jajang@pusan.ac.kr 136

138 length' showed no difference. However, the chest circumference, waist circumference, and shoulder blades differed by an average of 4~7cm, 4~8cm, and 1~3cm, respectively, with the sleeve length of the slim-fit being longer than classic-fit by an average of 1~2cm. 3. Analysis on the actual wearing condition of dress shirts indicated that the surveyed consumers possessed an average of 1~2 classic-fit shirts and 1~4 slim-fit shirts. They normally wore these shirts once or twice a week, and purchased them mainly at department stores, agencies, direct sales markets, or outlets with a high frequency. As for purchasing factors, they most prioritized the price and style, and a high ratio of them made the purchases after trying the items on. The consumers were usually aware of the shirt size indication method by the casual method instead of 'the center back neck to the shoulder tip plus the total arm length' method, and mainly wore size 95. As for dress shirt brands of preference, ZioZia and Daks had a high preference ratio due to good designs. 4. As a result of analyzing the dress shirt fit, the surveyed consumers normally experienced the greatest discomfort in wearing the shirts due to insufficient ease mainly around the shoulders. A high ratio was discontent towards the overall fit, as well. By classifying the surveyed by their respective somatotype, Type B and Type Y were generally discontent around the shoulders, and Type A was discontent towards the overall fit. This indicates the need to consider for both the overall fit and shoulder shapes of respective somatotypes when designing the slim-fit shirt patterns. 5. The design preference of dress shirts are as follows <Table 1>: The surveyed consumers most preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, a semi-wide collar and the color of white. By classifying the surveyed by their respective somatotype, Type B preferred designs darted on both front and back, Type A preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, and Type Y preferred designs non-darted on both front and back. All somatotypes displayed a preference for semiwide collars and the color of white. <Table 1> Design preference of dress shirts bodice styles. Front Back A Dart No Dart Princess Line A Dart No Dart Princess Line 30.9% 50.9% 18.2% 47.7% 39.1% 12.7% 100% 100% 137

139 <Table 2> Design preference of dress shirts collar styles Semi wide Button down Classic Two button 37.6% 20.2% 26.6% 15.6% 100% References Lim, H.W. (2001).A Study on the Consumer s actual condition and Size spec for Dress shirt, Unpublished master s thesis. Sookmyung Woman s University. Cho, R.H. (2008).Establishment of the suitable basic slim fit jacket pattern for man age 18~24, Unpublished master s thesis, Sung Kyun Kwan University. Kim, K. H. & Choi, J. M. (2006).The Wearing Practices and Subjective FabricsPreferences for Spring and Fall Dress Shirts of Male Office Workers,The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 1 4 (2), 299~

140 C9 Development of Standard Body Type Virtual Models for Korean Men and Women in their Twenties and Thirties Jung-iI Jun 1), Kueng-Mi Choi 2), Young-Sil Ryu 1), Sun-Mi Park 3) 1) FiTenBODY Co., Ltd., Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Dong Seoul College, Korea 3) Department of Fashion Design, Konkuk University, Korea Virtual models for the fashion industry are divided into average modeling models that are modeled based on the average shape of a group, and individualized modeling models that model the body shape of different individuals based on personal body shape information. Body modeling also reflects body shape characteristics according to the purpose of development. Standard body shape indicates a body shape that reflects average body measurements, and main body shape indicates a body shape that include aesthetic proportions and balance that are based on the average measurements of the group but also fit the brand concept (Kueng-Mi Choi, 2012). Standard dummies of ready-to-wear product design and production do not reflect the characteristics of Korean standard body shapes and measurements (Miung-Hai Choi,2006), which is leading to lower fit quality of clothing products. School uniform companies that produce clothes for youth, whose body shapes are changing due to the rapidly changing environment they are growing up in, use 3D modeling technology to develop various dummies that reflect body shape characteristics of different group to improve fit quality (Chosun Ilbo, ). Virtual models used by internet fashion shopping malls are generally simplified and exaggerated versions of the human body, like animations. Body shape information of consumers are generally parametric bodies that change according to height and weight (Myung-ja Tak, 2006), and the technology to create a virtual model that can change and easily provide body measurements is still difficult to materialize and not actively used yet (Tacho Jang, 2009). Expansion of the internet clothing market based on development of a 3D virtual fitting system with a virtual model is predicted (Wolhee Do, 2010) but with the current technology, 3D virtual fitting technology fails to accurately express consumers characteristics (Young-lim Choi, 2009). Therefore, there is a need to develop the technology to product virtual models that reflect consumers body shape characteristics. Development of a virtual model that reflects the body shape characteristics of Koreans can provide basic shapes for development of standard dummies for ready-to-wear design, and be used as a standard virtual model for the parametric body for the virtual fitting system, and ultimately, the foundation of the digital fashion industry of Korea. Therefore, 4 standard body shape virtual models were developed in this study, based on average body shape information of Korean men and women in their twenties and thirties, for use by all brands that target Korean people.. orogi1961@hanmail.net 139

141 References Kueng-Mi Choi.(2012).Development of a Pattern Design Theory for Personalized Mass- Customization Patterns for Obese Preteen Boys. Unpublished doctoral thesis. Bunka Kakuen University, Tokyo. Miung-Hai Choi, Kyong-Won Jung, Yun Ja Nam, Kueng-Mi Choi.(2006). A Basic study on the Product Development of Dress Forms. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 8(3), pp Jin Kim.( ).Schoolboys have hunched backs. Chosun Ilbo, p. A2. Myung-Ja Tak, Chee-Yong Kim. (2006). A Study on Virtual Fitting Model System for Internet Fashion shoppingmall. Journal of Korea Multimedia society, 9(9), pp Tacho Jang, Seungyeob Back, Kunwoo Lee.(2009). Synthesis of Human BODY Shape for Given Body Sizes using 3D Body San Data. Transactions of the Society of CAD/CAM Engineers, 14(6), pp Wolhee Do.(2010). The Comparison of User Preference on Domestic versus a Foreign 3D Virtual Try-On System. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(7), pp Young-Lim Choi, Yun Ja Nam.(2009). The Qualitative Study on the Evaluation and the Application of 3D scan and virtual try-on technology. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 11(3),pp * This study was supported by the 2011 Ministry of Knowledge Economy Korean Agency for Technology and Standards Development of a Standard Body Shape for Industry project. 140

142 C10 Development of a Pattern Design Algorithm for Personalized Mass-Customization Patterns for Obese Preteen Boys Kueng-Mi Choi 1), Jung-iI Jun 2),Taeko Hirokawa 3) 1) Department of Fashion Design, Dong Seoul College, Korea 2) FiTenBODY Co., Ltd., Korea 3) Graduate School Bunka Gakuen University, Japan Demands for production of multiple products in small quantities and mass-customization are increasing recently due to polarization of consumer classes of the fashion market and the various demands of consumers with different tastes, but there has been insufficient development of customized design and production technology that can quickly produce a wide variety of products at a low cost and raise economic efficiency. Customized design technology is a clothing production technology that converges with IT technology and can be automated. However, it is unable to fulfill the demands for customized fit appropriateness and various designs, as of yet. Mass-customization is appropriate for targets that have more sizes than smaller markets and experience difficulties regarding left over stock or pattern design technology due to uncommon body shapes, such as obese children 1). A pattern design algorithm for personalized mass-customization patterns for obese children was therefore designed in this study, based on prototype patterns according to size, including the body shape characteristics of obese preteen children of different sizes, in order to develop a theory of masscustomized patterns for obese pre-teen boys. As a result, 3 stages of size change and 3 stages of shape change were divided based on analysis of the body shape characteristics of obese preteen boys, the areas of pattern change rule application for each pattern change stage were decided, a pattern change coefficient of x, y coordinates was developed based on the pattern ratio of the prototypes for each size, and an equation that can calculate the pattern change amount for each stage was developed. * This study is part of a degree thesis. References Kim, Soo-ah(2010), A Study on Automated Silver Women s Wear Patterns for Mass-customization Production,Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Women s University, Seoul. orogi1961@hanmail.net 141

143 C11 Categorization of School Uniform Designs for Automatic Pattern Search -Focusing on Boys' Summer Uniforms- Hyun-Jung Hwang 1), Jung-iI Jun 2), Kueng-Mi Choi 2) 1) FiTenBODY Co., Ltd., Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Dong Seoul College, Korea Ever since liberalization of school uniforms in Korea (1983), middle schools and high schools have been required to have school uniforms, and purchase of school uniforms is concentrated before the start of the spring and fall semesters. School uniform companies predict the demand and produce uniforms to fulfill the demands at these times. School uniforms have to be ready in a wide variety of sizes as they are worn by all students, but with the difficulty of accurate purchase prediction, left over stock is becoming a burden for school uniform companies. The size spread is different for each school, so if customized services are provided for groups where demand prediction is difficult due to extreme sizes, left over stock can be reduced and clothing fit can be improved. Therefore, this study categorized boys' spring/summer school uniform designs based on pattern design elements to make summer school uniform design possible, for development of an automated pattern contents using IT technology that makes efficient customized services possible. As a result of categorizing silhouette characteristics and pattern design elements of spring/summer school uniform designs worn by students at 362 middle schools and high schools in Seoul as foundation research for automated pattern searching for mass-customized middle school and high school uniforms, the search categories were set to go through 03 stages for tops to reach the final design. * This research was supported by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy 2011 Industry Source Technology Development Project (project name: Development of a Mass-customized Fiber Product PLM System). junjungill@hanmail.net 142

144 C12 A Study on Change of the Seeing and Hearing Mouth Nose of the Period of Growth Boy and Girl Using 3D Data Gumhwa Kim 1), Keiko Hiraragi 2), Yoshiko Yanagida 2), Taeko Hirokawa 3) 1) Department of Apparel Design, Kunkuk University, Korea 2) Bunka Gakuen University, Japan 3) Graduate School, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan I. Introduction Various types of head measuring machine, foot measuring machine, for full length measuring machine 3D measuring machine development available 3D human body measurement system was introduced, over 20 years, currently. Also a full-scale application to the fashion industry in dig ital 3D technology are visualizing while technology was developed, and is devoted to trying t o build a role of the top global market development and the IT sector are connected such as information and communication technologies and Web application technology trend. Is fact request human information particularly precisely figured started utilized diverse order production of clothing and fashion industry's product development, etc., to spread aggressively for education research and academia. Main purpose of that provide the basic data for the eyes and mouth and nose ears track forms and characteristics of the head and growing process of paper boys and girls (age 7-19) are required for head-related product development. II. Methodology With up to 19 years old Korea from the age of 7 in this study during the growth process of boys and girls. Elementary school early (A), (B) elementary school late classified and divided into four groups for the secondary section (C), (D) higher.3d measurement data using the measured fiscal 2004 from fiscal year 2003 in Korea Size Korea 3D measurement and data measured in the 3D measuring machine-head only. To know the form of the boys and girls of the Korea in the growth process of basic physical items and ears and eyes and mouth and nose measurements were measured height, thickness, width and length. III. Result and Discussion Physical items and growing process of Korea men's and women's results are as follows: Boy s stature is a basic item A value difference is in 6.1 cm cm women's value is cm.9.9 cm C, D 13.0 cm difference in B and 4.6 cm, full swung-boys, difference between men and women would be too slowly the group tendency. The weight is 26.9 kg in 31.1 kg, the girls in the boys of A; a boy of 4.2 kg is heavy.there is a difference of 4.2 kg at 26.9 kg in 31.1 kg, the girls in the boys of A by the weight. The difference is a tendency to grow big so that a boy is bigger than a girl, and the difference becomes the high grade part at 11.7 kg in 9.4 kg, D in 6.8kg, C in B. Head representative items in men's a head circumference difference in 0.9 cm 52.1 cm women's he ad circumference is 53.0 cm. ghkim1227@naver.com 143

145 B is a tendency to boys by 1.9 cm D 1.3 cm in C 1.1 cm, in the group the large gender differences become larger high school and the difference. The difference was 0.1 cm 16.0 cm women's and men's 16.1 cm in A thickness of the head boys had greater all thirteen 0.8 cm in D 0.5 cm in C 0.5 cm, the difference is in the B boy a girl difference also gradually increased.the difference was 0.4 cm by 13.8 cm male and female 13.4 cm in the width of the head boys had greater all thirteen at 1.0 cm D 0.6 cm in C 0.7 cm at B boy a difference girl also gradually increased. The difference was 0.3 cm in men's 5.2 cm, 4.9 cm girl's length of the ear boys had greater all thirteen 0.4 cm in D 0.4 cm in C 0.3 cm in B boy a girl difference also gradually increased. The difference was 0.2 cm 3.1 cm men's and women's 2.9 cm in A width of the ear boys had greater all thirteen in 0.2 c in D 0.3 cm in C 0.3 cm, B boy and girl difference less rehearsal seems certain. Is the length between the eyes at the end 0.2 cm by 7.8 cm in women's 8.0 cm in A men and boys had all thirteen by 0.4 cm in D 0.4 cm in C 0.4 mm in B, men grow 0.4 cm 0.2 cm difference in trend. Boy s is 3.6 cm in girl's 3.8 cm in A width of the mouth boys had greater total thirteen 0.3 cm difference in D 0.3 cm in C 0.2 cm in B, variation of growth is almost the same in. Difference of 0.1 cm C, 0.3 cm D in 40.1 cm, B 2.8 cm in girl's 2.9 cm a nose length boy's. Is the width of the nose in A 3.3 cm male, female 3.2 cm 0.1 cm difference of 0.3 cm C, 0.3 cm D in 0.2 cm, B. All items boys had greater value was a different amount of change IV. Conclusion State the first in the recent scanner and 3D human body measurement-of commercialization is expanding rapidly. Introduced 3D measurement method Korea even in a national project since 2003, reader came to be utilized in each industrial product. Summary results of this study changes in eyes and ears and mouth and nose is smaller confirmed the differences in the period of growth and growth rates of each loop between men and women In the future, in going to compare the differences in growth Korea Japan men's and women's ears and eyes and mouth and nose. References Size Korea (2004). Next 5 Koreans report of size of business to human Miyoshi.M (2000) Dress formative studies Bunka Shim,B (1997) Clothing ergonomics kyomunnsa Sadou (1994),Surface of a body dissection empty atlas. Nannkoutou 144

146 C13 Development of a Virtual Fitting Model and Dummy for the Men s Apparel Industry Using 3D Human Body Modeling Technology Young-Sil Ryu 1), Jung-iI Jun 1), Kueng-Mi Choi 2), Sun-Mi Park 3) 1) FiTenBODY Co., Ltd., Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Dong Seoul College, Korea 3) Department of Fashion Design, Konkuk University, Korea According to the Hyundai Research Institute, the per capita income of Korea is 23,000 dollars, but the standard of living based on actual purchase power is almost 30,000 dollars, making it close to the level of advanced countries (Hyundai Research Institute, 2012). With a higher level of consumption, the men s consumption market has expanded, and the men s wear market outdid the women s wear market for the first time in 2011, when it reached the 7.27 trillion won mark (Herald Business, ). Men s suits are divided into classic suits for me in their forties and fifties, and casual suits or men in their twenties and thirties. 25.0% and 73.1% of the suits in each category are produced as slim fit (Myoung-ok Kim, 2012), showing that all ages have a preference for slim fitting suits. In addition, the westernization of men s body shapes and trend of slim fitting styles has led to increased popularity of new niche sizes that were not covered with the existing size system, among young men (Asia Economy, 2011). Therefore, the changes in men s body shapes and fit of men s clothes has led to an increased demand for men s wear designs that fit close to the body, like women s wear (Hyundai Research Institute Weekly Economic Review 12-19, ). A virtual fitting model and dummy for classic and casual men s suits were developed in this study for design of slim men s wear patterns, using 3D human body modeling technology. References A Man s Dignity FashionOverFlowers,(2012, June 08). Herald Biz(Herald Media INC), Retrieved July 2, 2012, From The ambush of 97 and Niche men s wear sizes are gaining popularity. (2011, December 23). The Asia Business, Retrieved July 2, 2012, From A navy suit and floral print tie Men looking pretty 2012Men s wear spring trends, (2012, March 06). Kukminilbo. Kukinews, Retrieved July 2, 2012, From Myoung-Ok Kim and Mi-A Suh(2011), Survey on Purchase and Fitting of Menswear Suits according to Styles for Consumers in Their 30s,The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(1), 191~199. orogi1961@hanmail.net 145

147 C14 A Study on the Perceived Body Shape and Clothing Purchase Criteria Sun-Mi Park Department of Fashion Design, Konkuk University, Korea Lookism among people is rampant in our society. The way they look is very important for the people these days. People are absorbed in improving their appearance. Especially young people, they spend more and more time & money to take good care of the way they look. The attention in appearance is moving from face to body. They want to have better body shape through diet, muscular motion and plastic operation to be hot, not just to be good. Clothing and fashion items are also very important for them to be sexy. Therefore, it is interesting to investigate the relationship between clothing related behaviors and body related behaviors in this point of view. This study revealed the effects of body shape and consumer s socio-psychological characteristics on the clothing purchase behaviors. To investigateclothing purchase behaviorsof young people in their 20 s, perceived body shape and consumer s socio-psychological characteristicswere adopted as explanatory factors and purchase criteria of clothing, clothing purchase intention were adopted as dependent factors. To conduct this study, young people who wereresiding in Daejeon and surrounding areas were surveyed in the fashion streets and at the campusof universities by the researcher. Data were collected by means of a questionnaire from June 1 to June 15, complete questionnaires were used out of 250 obtained ones. The data was analyzed using SPSS The reliability of the research items was measured using Cronbach s alpha. Factor analysis was used to group the items of clothing purchase criteria. Regression analysis was used to confirm the influence of clothing purchase criteria on clothing purchase behaviors and ANOVA was used to identify the difference among the groups divided by perceived body shape and socio-psychological characteristics. The results are as follows. First, factor analysis on clothing purchase criteria resulted in 4 dimensional structures of clothing purchase criteria for the sample: 4 factors were fundamental commodity, essential external commodity, practicality and symbolism. Second, fundamental commodity, essential commodity, practicality and symbolism affected clothing purchase behaviors of young people. In details, fundamental commodity (+), practicality (+) and symbolism (+) significantly affected luxurious clothing purchase. Fundamental commodity (+) significantly affected medium-low priced clothing purchase and second handed clothing purchase. Fundamental commodity (-), essential commodity (-) and practicality (+) significantly affected ecofriendly clothing purchase. These results demonstrate that fundamental commodity such price and color is important for all kinds of clothing purchase. People basically judge the clothing by its price and color. Third, groups divided by perceived body shape showed meaningful differences in clothing purchase criteria. The fat group showed more interest in price and color and the thin group showed less interest in practicality such as sewing and washing. The groups showed no difference for the essential commodity and symbolism. Groups divided by level of fitting importance showed interesting differences in clothing purchase criteria. The low group showed less interest in fundamental and essential commodity and the groups showed no difference for the essential commodity and symbolism. sunmipark@kku.ac.kr 146

148 Groups divided by level of consumption showed interesting differences in clothing purchase criteria. The groups showed no difference for the essential & essential commodity and symbolism but the low and average group showed more interest than the high group in symbolism. It meant that people who consumed less thought of their decency or honor in clothing purchase. They might try to consume clothing not to lose their face. These results could be usefully utilized in the communication strategies of fashion brand with the young. 147

149 C15 Shape Characteristics of Elderly Women in Japan and Korea Silver Industry -Using the 3D Human Body Measurement Data- Taeko Hirokawa 1), Gumhwa Kim 2), Akemi Isozaki 3), Yoshiko Yanagida 3), Keiko Hiraragi 3) 1) Advanced Study of Clothing Construction, Graduate School, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan 2) Department of Apparel Design, KunKuk University, Korea 3) Department of Fashion Technology, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan I. Introduction This reporter has gone through a study on elderly women's physique aiming at good wear ability for aged women's clothing design, Revealed skeletal changes in and around the length changes of each part of the elderly in the study of body angles from Martin measurement and Silhouette photos. Also has conducted research on the jacket and for elderly upper archetype extraction site compares young adult women and older women's body measurements and found no significant difference. On the other hand, clothing patterns and detachment of research have been reported by other researchers. However, reporting not seen too much is the quantitative study of the horizontal cross-section of the elderly women. Also, not yet because they go three dimensional measurement of the elderly in the HQL, Size Korea to publish a shape data. Study on surface angle Martin measurement and Silhouette photo measuring device from the skeletal changes in and around the length changes of each part of the elderly obviously. Also has conducted research on the jacket and for elderly upper archetype extraction site compares young adult women and older women's body measurements and found no significant difference. On the other hand, clothing patterns and detachment of research have been reported by other researchers. However, reporting not seen too much is the quantitative study of the horizontal crosssection of the elderly women. Also, not yet because they go three dimensional measurement of the elderly in the HQL, Size Korea to publish a shape data. So, paper using cubic-type non-contact 3D human instrument (made of techno art), to contribute to body manufactured for women's aged and elderly women's clothing design and purpose, data of the individual, etc. is considered important garment pattern design on bust waist hips horizontal sectional view statistical processing, you create average figure to grasp the characteristics of its shape. II. Methodology This study was measured using Cubic-type non-contact 3D human body measurement machine Japan culture Gakuen University human engineering lab is in place. Data of the individual etc. bust waist hips horizontal sectional view within the 10 cross section is subject to section measurement of garment pattern design on important to elderly women, statistical processing create an average figure, grasp the characteristics of its shape. Subjects including elderly 260 people living in Tokyo for the ghkim1227@naver.com 148

150 height, weight, doing numerous measurement reports 50 main section 3 place horizontal sections focusing on at this time. How to measure the horizontal section is not as fig.1. Grasp the horizontal section as the shape and deoth of breadth, a to b. To measure the curve divides splitter.section Shape of Curve shape measurement and Measurement of the Basic Section measurement has 2 types of Fig.1 Section Shape Measurement III. Results and Discussion 3positions horizontal section shape in accordance with Section Shape Measurement method of measure the averages of their own dividing line depicting the average figure in Figure 2. Results were measured, according to the Basic Section measurement in Bust92.41cm, Waist82.17cm, and Hip90.09cm in circumference. The value is the biggest Bust value as the average width top 3 position in cm as a hip but in breadth Hip section is the biggest 3 section in as 1.37 is Flatting. Section shapes of the human body for the elderly is confirmed as results in young women with different body type. Horizontal section of Result Bust point Measurement Result 凸 Girth:92.41cm Depth:24.81cm Breath:30.74cm Flatting:1.24 Flatting =Breath/ Depth 149

151 凸 Girth:82.17cm Depth:22.73cm Breath:28.99cm Flatting:1.28 Waist point 凸 Girth:90.09cm Depth:23.73cm Breath:32.44cm Flatting:1.37 Hip point Fig.2 Section Shape Measurement of Results IV. Conclusion Grasp of the elderly female body shape measurement by non-contact three-dimensional measuring machine with purpose we created the average figure for the horizontal section of the 3 largest 50 bust, waist-hip. Bust in differently than young women, near balanced concave corners rectangle, waist is close to the heart-shaped form, result obtained hip was similar to the pentagon Horizontal section, not the shape of the result like this young woman results and thus valid for the body design results were obtained in the clothing design and prototype of the elderly and future. Reference Miyoshi.M. and Kim.GH (1999) A Measurement of a human body level horizontal section with a three-dimensional measurement. Journal of the Japan research association for textile end- uses, 40(8), pp Kim, GH (1999) A classification of horizontal section s shape and human body type, Journal of Fashion business, 5(2), pp Kim, GH (2001)The measurement of human horizontal section shape and averaging for the body design-by the use of the non-contact 3-D measurement, Bunka University Doctorial Paper Hirasawa.K (1993) Classification of women s body shapers, Nihon Gakkasi.44(9), pp

152 C16 Development of Dress Shirts Sizing System for Mass Customization Young Lim Choi Dept. of Fashion Design/Art & Design Institute, Daegu University, Korea In the apparel industry, several new technologies have helped mass customization operations. First of all, precise measurements of individual consumers are required to customize apparel products. The 3D-body scanner allows you to consume just 17 seconds to save the same model as the human shape in your computer. In addition, the 3D scan data helps you measure each area of body in an automatic way. Likewise, the system to measure a body gets more accurate and fast, enabling the apparel size to reflect characteristics of greater various body shape ranges. Fortunately with improving computer technology and information processing, customers can order clothes using the internet or network systems. Clothes ordered in these ways can cater to customers individual preferences and such process has been referred to mass customization. In case of dress shirts for men, efforts to standardize the size is actively made both online and offline. The existing system to set the size of dress shirts was designed for mass production in small variety based on the production method of ready-to wear clothes. Usually it presented a simple sizing system, mainly consisting of Neck circumference and Cervical to wrist length. However, the concept of mass customization was introduced, and human bodies could be measured automatically, requiring the development of new sizing system which reflects the characteristics of more various body shapes. Therefore, this study was performed with a view to developing the sizing system of dress shirts on the basis of characteristics of body shapes. Such sizing system aims to design the dress shirts for men automatically in the future. Data on 1544 men aged from 20~59 was utilized for statistical analysis in this study. The sizing system of dress shirts was devised based on Chest circumference, Cervical to wrist length, Neck circumference, and Drop. In the existing sizing system based on Neck circ. and Cervical to wrist length, Chest circ. was regarded as the secondary size. However, for automatic design of male shirts patterns to meet the production requirements of mass customization, all sizes of each area of human body needs to be reflected accurately, and Chest circ. is the important item of measurement, representing the human size. Additionally, Drop is the absolutely necessary factor to design shits which cover the torso. Therefore, the study concludes that the sizing system-which encompasses Chest circumference, Cervical to wrist length, Neck circumference, and Drop - needs to be developed. In this study, new sizing system is recommended to reflect the characteristics of various shapes so that it can be utilized for mass customization, instead of the existing method to produce ready-made clothes. This newly-developed sizing system is able to cover extreme sizes which were frequently ignored by the existing system, and to be applied to the foreign fashion industry. Furthermore, the orangebk@daegu.ac.kr 151

153 system is scalable, so more classified shapes will be able to be reflected in accordance with the evolution of production method. Acknowledgement This research was supported by Basic Science Research Program through the National Research Foundation of Korea(NRF) funded by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology( ) 152

154 C17 Size Specifications for Females Aged Between 7 and 18 Young Lim Choi Dept. of Fashion Design/Art & Design Institute, Daegu University, Korea Digital technology has brought innovation to the textile and fashion industries, and new productbased application systems for 3D, virtual space, and virtual reality technologies have been developed, produced, and consumed. In particular, virtual wearing technology lets shoppers see images that are quite similar to the shoppers actually wearing the clothes they are looking at, so that it can help shoppers decide precise sizes online. Virtual wearing technologies including i-vird, I-designer, Qualoth, DC suit, and CLO3D have been developed and widely utilized in the fashion and animation industries at home and abroad. So, demands for studies on virtual modeling and size diversification utilized for virtual wearing systems have also increased. Previous studies have largely focused on altering virtual models according to customer sizes and virtual modeling-by-morphing techniques. However, few studies have looked into altering virtual model sizes to conform to different body types of consumers. Different sizes actually call for different patterns, not only for the lengths, busts or waists, but every body part. Thus it is necessary to develop size alteration rules.therefore, this study aims at developing size sections and specifications for females aged Such specifications are expected to contribute to developing precise virtual models by serving as basic data for the size alteration of 3D virtual models. This study designated size sections for girls aged 7-18, and developed size specifications for each section in order to provide basic materials for 3D model creation with better fitness. To this end, 33 items from the 5th SizeKorea data set were adopted and analyzed. By conducting factor analyses on the items, Obesity and Height Factors were extrapolated. Prior to designating size sections, body proportions of two age groups (7-12 and 13-18) were compared, which showed that upper body and leg proportions to stature increase as girls grow older. In other words, head proportions to stature decrease while body proportions increase, demonstrating the need for different size specifications for different age groups. To propose size sections and specifications, 3D measurements of girls aged 7-18 were taken from the 5th SizeKorea data. Among the 3D measurements of girls aged 7-18 in the 5th SizeKorea data set, a total of 33 items (12 height items, 16 circumference items, and 5 length items) were analyzed (Table 1). Key data items among those 33 items were determined by factor analyses. Factors were extracted by principal component analysis (PCA), and determined among those with an eigenvalue of 1.00 or over in accordance with a scree diagram; and the component matrix was vertically rotated by Varimax. Before determining size sections, the body proportions of the two age groups (7-12 and 13-18) were compared to verify differences in the body proportions of different age groups. For a comparison, independent sample t-tests were conducted with the proportions of cervical, axilla, bust, underbust, waist, hip, crotch, gluteal fold, thigh, knee, and calf height to stature. Then, according to standard size section practices for fitting proposed by the garment size for female children and the garment size for female adolescents, size sections of waist circumference and stature were determined every 3cm and orangebk@daegu.ac.kr 153

155 5cm, respectively. After that, cross tabulations were conducted on the waist circumference and stature sections to identify frequently-appearing sections.last, regression analyses were conducted to develop size specifications for each section, with waist circumference and stature as independent variables and body reference sizes as dependent variables. By selecting waist circumference as representative variables for Obesity and stature for Height Factors, waist circumference was sectioned every 3cm and height every 5cm. Then, cross tabulations between waist circumference and height were conducted for two age groups of 7-12 and 13-18, and frequently-appearing sections were identified. Based on the results, size sections were decided for the development of 3D models. Then regression analyses were conducted to develop size specifications for each section, with independent variables of waist circumference and height and dependent variables of reference body sizes. As a result, Obesity Factors were better explained by waist circumference, whereas Height Factors were better explained by stature. Finally, size specifications for each section were developed. The size specifications developed by this study are different from clothing sizes, like those for tops and bottoms. The size specifications for tops mostly take into account stature, bust, and hip circumferences, while the specifications for bottoms mostly factor in stature, waist, and hip circumferences. However, this study only used stature and waist circumference to develop virtual body models. If more size items are utilized to determine size sections, more detailed size specifications may be developed, but this may lead to weaker explanatory power, as each size cell has lower frequencies. This study designates size sections for girls aged 7-18 and provides size specifications for each section based on regression analyses. The specifications are expected to serve as basic data for altering sizes of 3D virtual models, and follow-up studies will be necessary. Acknowledgements This research was supported by the Daegu University Research Grant,

156 M1 A Case Study on Current SPA Brands (Fast Fashion) Waste Issues and Possible Future Directions Hyun Min Kong Department of Textile &Clothing Design, Kyung Hee University, Korea After the significant and fast growth of fast fashion, the industry must show concern for the positive as well as the negative impacts it has. The major strength of fast fashion is the ability to produce reasonable prices while delivering the latest fashion trends. The quick response and fast stock turnover business model, featuring frequent changes, gave customers the buy it now concept. Though this innovative concept provides stylish and fashionable silhouettes, it also provides massive waste and chemical pollution. Even thoughthis has become a controversial issue, many fashionable, fashion forward people are still shopping fast fashion brands for many reasons including affordability, variety of styles, and ease when it comes to returning or exchanging items. When fast fashion brands entered the market during the economic recession,the majority of consumers were attracted by the low prices and up-to-date fashionable styles. This resulted in the fast fashion trends making a major impact in the apparel industry. TheSPA brands market share grew enormously within a couple years. However there are two major problems with fast fashion trends. The first issue is that the low product cost allows the consumer to buy clothes with little or no consideration time. This fast food like business concept (easy to get and easy to throwaway)/purchasing pattern influences consumersto be carefree when buying products. The second major issue is that SPA brand shoppers easily get bored with the latest collection much faster than before. This has resulted in a big increase in clothing waste. It is absolutely necessary to educate the readers on the amount of waste problems resulting from fast fashion trends and to study possible ways to alert the public on ways to reduce waste. This business model brought more and more brand new fast fashion brands into the market, resulting in today sthrowaway fashion trend.the major medias continuously update the public on news about the national SPA brands highest sales rates of the day/month and early this year ZARA and Uniqlo were two brands in which their values went up 22 percent within a year. (Claudio L 2007).The industry leading brands, such as H&M, Forever21, and ZARA, the core plan is to release many lines per year with reasonable product costs. Before fast fashion arrived in the apparel industry, the usual line cycle was 4 to 6 at the most. However, fast fashion has evolved into many lines per year that can get more attention from consumers than competitors brands. This business concept not only gives price benefits to customers, it also made trend cycles end sooner, harming the environment. The most widely used textile in fast fashion brands are man-made fabrics made from petroleum such as polyester and many other relatively low cost fabrics with toxic finishing.theuse of this material nearly doubled in the last 15 years according to the Technical Textile market (Claudio L 2007). The manufacturing process of polyester and other synthetic fibers are mostly an energy-intensive process that requires and makes emission and pollutions. The fast trend change cycle is becoming a big issue because clothing is becoming trendy and then quickly out of style at a much faster rate, resulting in more clothing being thrown out. Not only do the consumers cares less about their clothing, the brands (fast fashion brands) began to slash unworn, unsold products, and dump them into garbage cans in the back of H&M and Victoria hyunmin1025@naver.ac.kr 155

157 secret s stores in Manhattan, New York in 2010 (Dwyer, 2010). After this controversy, the brands promised to donate their unsold products to charities. Until this promise to donate their products to aid organizations,the unsold products went to a landfill. The saturated condition made the young casual apparel market much more competitive, resulting in the brands getting rid of their own unworn items to bring in new products to the stores. According to Cambridge University s research report, fast fashion harms the environment more than fast food and from 2001 to 2005 women s clothing purchasing rates increased in U.K market. The Ethical Fashion Forum website stated that the United Kingdom consumers throwaway an average of 30 kilograms of clothing/textile per year and 1.2 million tons of clothing ended up in landfills in 2010 (Ost, Burress. 2010). The research by WTO in 2008 shows that the clothing import of developed nations and the United States takes about 22 percent of the total import which is the top percentage of other countries (WTO, 2008). Average Americans throw away approximately 27 kilograms of clothing and textiles per year and this makes up about 4 percent of the total municipal solid waste each year. These two countries spend about 5 percent annually on their clothing and footwear (OECD, 2010).Unfortunately only 1/8 of the total clothing was donated to charity organizations (Fast fashion, 2009). Research shows that the amount of waste and toxic pollution producedby the apparel and textile industry continuously increased every year because of changes inconsumer shopping patterns and the carefree attitudes the consumers have about their own purchases. Luckily, some major fast fashion leading brands realized these sustainability and social responsibility issues. H&M started to operate their business in more sustainable ways to reduce the environmental impact in operations. The CEO of H&M, Mr. Persson said "We want our customers to feel confident that everything they buy from H&M is designed, manufactured, and handled with consideration for people and environment. The level of social and environmental responsibility we take, places H&M's sustainability work at the forefront of the fashion industry globally" (Edie newsroom, 2012). More and more major organizations are planning or are already in the process of moving towards a sustainable production system. However,few brands educate their customers on how the brand produces and handles their products and how to recycle clothing. Uniqlo is one fast fashion brand that is currently focusing and using it as their marketing strategy. The brand started a recycling program in 2007 to drop off Uniqlo brand used clothes to collect for donation. "We don't want to just sell clothes without thinking about what happens to them down the road," Yamamoto, the company CEO, said. "We want to recycle clothes so we don't waste them" (The Associated Press, 2007). The companies state their annual sustainability reports to show how they manage their raw materials and human rights. The amount of waste iscontinuously increasing every year worldwide, caused by overproduced garments, fast fashion consumers over dressed habits, toxic wastes from the dyeing and finishing of textiles, consumers ignorance of their purchases and short product life cycle. Because of fast fashion s rapid trend cycles, an incredible amount of waste is created when a product is being made. Besides toxic waste, the waste of clothing needs to be considered. Although the major brands sustainable efforts did not made much differences. Because the consumers most likely did not pay much for the latest trends, it is easier for them to throw them out once a new trend is on the market. It is important to show the people how their purchased products end up in landfills because it affects the environment, and they must be showndata of the pollution being produced during the production process. The first possible future direction is the development of the right policies/guidelines of government regulations thatallow the apparel companies to follow the instructions. Although it is not possible to stop the fast fashion trends in the industry, there are needs to show how to donate clothing instead of just throwing them away. With the right marketing from the brands themselves, this problem of people throwing away their unwanted garments can be reduced. In order to make the 156

158 current and potential fast fashion consumers more aware with sustainable issues marketing strategies must be usedto target the youth. One of possible way is to use a T-shirt phase campaign to appeal to young customers. The final option is for each brand to make sure they display a guideline next to the cashier showing how to donate their garments and rethink before they purchase. Methodology This study isfocused on the recent fast fashion s weaknesses and environmental issues in domestic and foreign media news since 2000 to 2012, and to study detailed information about the process of fast fashion production and to find out possible ways for the consumer to help reduce these problems. This case study would provide a first step to spreading awareness about the issue.it would be the first step in teaching consumers how to reduce garment trash afterthey purchase from the giant chain stores, and to educate them about sustainability issues so that in the future green fast fashion brands may develop. Reference Fast fashion, cheap fashion, fast fashion is like fast food, it s cheap, addictive and unsustainable %E2%80%93-clothing/ Claudio L (2007). Waste Couture: Environmental Impact of the Clothing Industry. Environ Health Perspect 115:A449-A Dwyer (2010).A Clothing Clearance Where More Than Just the Prices Have Been Slashed Edie newsroom (2012), H&M aims for sustainable 'fast-fashion' fast-fashion'+ Larissa Ost & Ariel Burress (2010). Fast fashion creating waste; shoppers can consider thrift storeshttp:// N.A (2009) Fast fashion is dangerous as much as fast foods, N.A (2012).Value of luxury brand increased dramatically, #1 brand is Louis vuitton The Associated Press (2007), Uniqlo to recycle its used garments, 157

159 M2 Analysis of QR Code Application of Korean Fashion Firms - Focused Fashion Ads in Korean Fashion Magazines Yongju Kim Department of Fashion Design, College of Arts, Hansung University, Korea In recent years, many firms have recognized the importance of integrated marketing communication (IMC) strategy rather than individual advertizing and promotion activities. In addition, development of diverse information technology tool and its growth of market penetration can make firms develop creative and efficient communication strategy between firms and consumers, not just within one country but also in global context. Especially in so called Market 3.0 era, communication with collective intelligence shows powerful affect to both consumers and firms. One of recent communication tool is a QR code. A QR code is a matrix barcode one type of two-dimensional code, readable by QR scanners, mobiles phones with camera, and smartphones. The code consists of black modules arranged in a square pattern on white background. The information encoded can be text, URL, videos, or other data. QR code is common in Japan, where it was created by Japanese corporation Denso-Wave in 1994, the QR code is one of the most popular types of two-dimensional barcode ( In general 2D code contains tremendously amount of information compared to bar code and it makes interactive and prompt communication. However, QR code is the most widely used 2D code worldwide because it is only free of license and easy to create. A QR code requires smartphones with camera to be read. Smartphones user in South Korea has reached 53.8% in 2011 and over 90% of recent mobile phone buyer chose smartphones ( In global context, average 10% of world population adopt smartphones, which shows differences by countries (Tomi Ahonen). According to the report by Nielsen research institute in 2012, market penetration of smartphones in US is 50.4% and female user a little higher rate and by ethnicity, Asian shows 67.3%, fellowed by Spanish(57.3%), African(54.4%), and Caucasian(44.7%). Therefore, firms have recognized smartphones as efficient communication tool with their customers. The purpose of the present study is to analyze fashion firms QR code application in Korea and consumer s adoption of QR codes. Based on the results, efficient QR application of fashion firms is to proposed. As research methodology QR codes in printed advertizement of nine Korean fashion magazines, May, 2012 which was the most recent issue (Ceci, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Esquire, GQ, Muine, Vogue, Vogue girl, W.Korea) and one women's life style magazine(donga Women) were used. Bazar was excluded because no QR code was found even though it is fashion magazine. Also three other Vogue magazines published in Italy, France, and USA were compared with Vogue Korea edition. All advertizement including fashion ads and other products were reviewed page by page and all QR codes were scanned by app 'barcode scanner' in Galaxy SII. Data collection was done May 24 through May30, Since QR code are generally connected to mobile homepage, homepage, internet cafe, or YouTube and the content can be updated frequently, only 7 days were limited to collect all contents provided by QR codes. All linked internet IP address were recorded and all contents linked to QR codes were scanned by camera. Total 191 QR codes were scanned including 145 fashion related QR codes from Korean fashion magazine. By excluding duplicate QR codes by same fashion brands or yjkim@hansung.ac.kr 158

160 firms, total 117 QR codes were analyzed by type of linked page and contents provided. For consumer's adoption of QR code in Korea, 158 college student as main target of QR codes were surveyed for recognition, adoption, or satisfaction. As results, among Korean fashion magazines, Cosmopolitan took out 24 QR codes in fashion ads, followed by Ceci, Vogue, Vogue girls, Elle, W. Korea and Muine among women's fashion magazines. On the other hand, Donga women which is life style magazine for mid age women took out only 4 QR codes for fashion whereas 16 QR codes for other products such as household products. Among two men's fashion magazines, Esquire and GQ, GQ carried 20 QR codes in total compared to 17 QR codes in Esquire, but Esquire showed 77% of QR codes for fashion brands where as GQ carried 55% of total QR codes. By product types, 71% of total 117 QR codes were carried by fashion firms and 29% were by other products such as automobiles, medicine, household electronics and etc. Among fashion products, 38 were for apparel whereas 26 were for cosmetics. Retailers such as internet shopping mall carried 8 QR codes followed by bags(4), footwear(3), watched(3), and accessaries(1). Among apparel products, 15 were by women's wear brands and 13 were by casual wear. Compared Vogue Korea with other country's edition, Vogue Korea carried the most 24 QR codes and 20 were for fashion brands whereas Vogue France carried only 4 QR codes in total and only 3 of them were for fashion brands. The first linked pages of fashion brands were and the contents provided by were 7 types; 1) mobile homepage (ex. for Reebok), 2) daum mobile QR code site (ex. for On & On), 3) naver mobile QR code site (ex. for LESPORTSAC), 4) QR code site (ex. for LILIKOS), 5) regular Homepage (ex. for Yan-story shopping mall), 6) Facebook ( for GGIO II), 7) YouTube (ex. for VINCIS BENCH). The contents provided by QR codes were company or product information, new product information, events, catalog, movie(ex SS collection), related movies, recommended movies posted by consumers, comments, store locations, sales coupon, photos, question for agreement for location tracking. As results for consumer survey, 91% were recognized QR codes and 67% of them had experienced scanning QR codes for any type of products. But only 29% adopted QR codes for fashion products and 43% were satisfied with contents linked. Only 51% of experienced QR code scan still keep QR code scanner app but 80% of them scanned QR code whenever they were exposed or they had free time. However, none of QR codes they most liked were related to fashion products. In conclusion, despite QR codes can be a tool for IMC in fashion firms, the current QR codes did not provide attactive and useful contents to consumers in general. However, several fashion brands such as innisfree got more than 1 million comments from global consumers. Therefore, fashion firms need to identify target customers profiles in terms of use of smartphones and information that they want to get from QR. Also they need to increase the frequency of expose of QR code. Mostly updated and fresh contents should be provided by fashion firms. 159

161 M3 The Perceived Value of Eco-friendly Apparel Consumption : The Moderating Effect of Brand Familiarity Hanna Kim Chungnam National University, Korea Environmentally friendly consumption has becomea widespread phenomenon, yet little research exists concerning perceived values on eco-friendly apparel consumption and its relationship with brand familiarity. This study examines how environmental consumer behavior is influenced by perceived values and by the moderating role of brand familiarity in the relationship between values and eco-friendly apparel consumption. Accordingly, the following is hypothesized: H1: Quality value of eco-friendly apparel will positively influence purchase intentions. H2: Hedonic value of eco-friendly apparel will positively influence purchase intentions. H3: Social value of eco-friendly apparel will positively influence purchase intentions. H4a: Brand familiarity will moderate the positive influence of quality value on purchase intentions. H4b: Brand familiarity will moderate the positive influence of hedonic value on purchase intentions. H4c: Brand familiarity will moderate the positiveinfluence of social value on purchase intentions. Total 190 U.S. subjects participated in a web-based survey. On the basis of the pretest s result, we developed two fictitious product description webpages to present differing brand names (familiar brand name vs. unfamiliar brand name).the research hypotheses were tested with a regression model whose parameters were estimated using the ordinary least squares (OLS) method. All scales with multiple items were averaged to form composite scales, which were mean centered in order to mitigate problems of multicollinearity. The moderating effect of brand familiarity on the influence that quality value, hedonic value, and social value exert over consumer purchase intentions was tested via the inclusion of interaction terms between the brand familiarity and independent constructs, and the unfamiliar brand name was assigned the value of zero, while the familiar brand name was assigned the value of one. To control for the effects of socio-demographic variables on purchase intentions, we also included covariates in the regression model, such as age, education, household income, and shopping experience. The results show that quality value (b:.31, p<.01), hedonic value (b:.51, p<.001), and social value (b:.30, p<.01) make important contributions to purchase intentions. Therefore, we find support for hypotheses H 1, H 2, and H 3. In addition, the results of the research reveal significant interaction effects between brand familiarity and independent constructs. Two of the interaction effects explaining purchase intentions were found to be significant; however, the interaction effect between brand familiarity and quality value is one of the non-significant ones. The moderating effect of brand familiarity was partially detected. First, the interaction terms between the hedonic value and brand familiarity are significant (b: -.34, p<.05), thus supporting H 4b. The interaction effect between the hedonic value and unfamiliar brand is more significant than the one between the hedonic value and familiar brand. Second, the interaction terms between the social value and brand familiarity are significant (b:.27, p<.05), thus supporting H 4c. In other words, brand familiarity has a considerable hanna@cnu.ac.kr 160

162 effect on the impact of the social value on purchase intentions. The interaction effect between the social value and familiar brand is more significant than the one between the social value and unfamiliar brand.however, the interaction terms between the quality value and brand familiarity turn out to be non-significant (b: -.02, p>.05). Hence, our results do not support H 4a. The results of this study confirm and extend the extant findings regarding perceived values in relation toeco-friendly apparel consumption by suggesting a more comprehensive theoretical framework of the values and purchase intentions to understand the role of brand reputation. 161

163 M4 The Effect of Clothing Consumption Value on the Clothing Disposal Behavior Soo-Kyung Ahn 1), Eun-Jeong Ryou 2) 1) The Research Institute for Human Ecology, Changwon National University, Korea 2) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Changwon National University, Korea Fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara and Topshop are introducing new lines every 2-3weeks at very low prices to maximize sales through encouraging consumers to visit their stores. As a result, many consumers expect constant change so new products have to be available on a frequent basis and dispose of their clothing more often (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010). There have been many concerns with clothing disposition problem as well as environmental issues in recent years. Disposition as a part of consumer behavior can greatly impact one s decision making processes and behaviors with respect to product acquisition. But little empirical research has addressed the disposal behavior of clothing & textiles (Bianchi & Birtwistle, 2011). Therefore, this study aims to investigate the relationship between consumers clothing consumption values and clothing disposal behavior. This research provides meaningful insights into social marketing strategies of fashion business. The data were collected from the online self-administered questionnaire with 300 women. It was identified the dimensions of clothing consumption values and clothing disposition behavior by conducting the exploratory and confirmative factor analyses. In order to determine the relationship between clothing consumption values and disposition behavior, a structural equation modeling was conducted. And employing one-way ANOVA and Sheffe's multiple range test, the relationship between clothing disposition behavior and demographic variables was investigated. The results are as follows: Firstly, clothing consumption values consisted of conditional value, individuality value, fashion value, social value, practicality value, and self-expression value. Clothing disposition behaviors were discovered as discarding, giving, selling, and donating. Discarding in the garbage can or recycling bin is the most happens and selling is the least. Second, fashion value (β=.20, p<.05) had influenced positively on discarding. But practicality value (β=-.25, p<.01) and selfexpression value (β=-.23, p<.05) had a significant negative impact on discarding. We found that fashion ability losses of clothing are the core reason of permanent disposition. Third, while practicality value (β=.22, p<.01) had a significantly positive impact on giving away others, fashion value (β=-.19, p<.01) had a significantly negative impact on giving away. The more one pursue practicability value, the more he giving away for reusing of recycling of others. Forth, there had not been an effect of clothing consumption value on selling. We suppose that is difficult to estimate the value of secondhand clothes. Fifth, practicability value (β=.20, p<.05) and individuality value (β=.15, p<.05) had a significantly positive impact on donating for recyclable disposition. Sixth, conditional value and social value had not influenced on clothing disposition behavior. Finally, giving and donating differed significantly across the groups of demographic variables. The older age group and the higher groups of monthly income and monthly purchasing fee had made more donating. The groups of more giving away were older aged and married. ejryou@changwon.ac.kr 162

164 References Bhardwaj, V., & Fairhust, A. (2010). Fast fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 20(1), Bianchi, C., & Birtwistle, G. (2011). Consumer clothing disposal behavior: a comparative study. International journal of consumer studies, Advance online publication. doi: /j x 163

165 M5 TheEffects of Appearance Concern on the Interpersonal Relationships of Adolescents Eun Hah Wee 1), Woo Mi Park 2) 1) Department of Home Economics Education, Chonnam National University, Korea 2) Department of Fashion Design, Gwangju University, Korea This study was conducted with the aim of obtaining source materials to help improve interpersonal relationships by focusing on the relationship between appearance concern and interpersonal relationships in middle school students. In this study, a method of measuring interpersonal relationships developed by Schlein & Guerney was employed. This method was also used by Kim, Young-ran (2010). Thetwenty-five questionswhat used by Kim, Young-ran were adapted and supplemented through pre-research to fit the needs of this study. The questions are composed of five types of questions with five questions per type. The five question types deal with self understanding, self receptiveness, understanding of others, receptiveness of others, and understanding and improving relationships. The reliability of the research conducted by Kim, Young-ran (2010) was a=.92. The total reliability of these studies was a=.96. The questionnaire for measuring appearance concern factor was composed of 28 questions. 6 of these questions were related to concern over clothing, 5 were related to concern over makeup and skin, 5 were related to concern over hair, 6 were related to concern over plastic surgery and other body reshaping techniques, and 6 were related to concern over weight. The total reliability was a=.95. The results are as follows; Middle school students appearance concern can be categorized by their main concerns and interests. These concerns are clothing, makeup and skin, hair, and weight. The students were sorted into 4 groups. Interpersonal relationships were sorted into 3 groups based on the results. These groups are self understanding and self receptiveness, understanding of others and receptiveness of others, and understanding and improving relationships. The strength of the explanation (R2) was 62.74%. As a result of looking into the interpersonal relationships of the appearance concerned group it has been shown that there are differences in their interpersonal relationships. For the self understanding and self receptiveness group (p<.001), for the understanding of others and receptiveness of others group (p<.05), and for the understanding and improving relationships group (p<.001). The group 2 middle school students, which are average in appearance concern, show greater self understanding and self receptiveness when compared to the other groups. The group 4 students, which are high in appearance concern, show a higher ability in interpersonal relationships when compared to the other groups. The results show that appearance concern has an effect on interpersonal relationships. Interest in clothing, makeup, skin, hair and weight positively affect the understanding of others and receptiveness of others as well as understanding and improving relationships. This shows that students with a higher appearance concern are also higher in their ability in interpersonal relationships. Interest in plastic surgery and other body reshaping techniques negatively affects self understanding and self receptiveness. However, it positively affects understanding of others and receptiveness of others along weh@jnu.ac.kr 164

166 with understanding and improving relationships. Therefore, it can be concluded that middle school students that are highly concerned with appearance are better able to understand and accept themselves and others and are more open to others. As a result, their interpersonal relationships are better. However, an interest in plastic surgery and other body reshaping techniques can negatively affect self understanding and self receptiveness which can decrease ability in interpersonal relationships. 165

167 M6 Adoption of New Technological Product as Fashion Product in the Social Context Sae-eun Lee, Yuri Lee, Jin Woo Choi Department of Clothing and Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea Introduction Distribution of innovation refers to a phenomenon in which members of a social system, that is, individuals of a group, adopt innovative products through specific communication channels and the number of adopters grows over time(rogers, 2003). Previous studies have largely dealt with technological innovation as a key factor to adoption of technological products such as mobile phones, while overlooking symbolic innovation. However, Hirschman (1982) examined innovation in two independent dimensions: technological innovation and symbolic innovation.replacement of technology products occurs not only by their technologically innovative features, but also by a social context where the products are used and a social trend that is formed in a social system. In this regard, Fisher and Price (1992) asserted the importance of a social context where consumption is visible and superior groups impact manifests in the distribution of innovation. Despite such a trend, few studies on the symbolic meanings and trends of mobile phones have been researched. Some of the few examples are studies (Compell, 2007; Ling & Yttri, 2002) that focused on the expression of mobile phones as fashion products; a study (Leung & Wei, 2000) that examined mobile phones as a symbolic means to express the owners status or conspicuousness or to save the owners faces; and a study(j. E. Katz & Sugiyama, 2005, 2006) that regarded mobile phones as a symbolic communication tool. Under such circumstance, this study includes both technological and symbolic innovation as antecedent factors that affect adoption of mobile phones because a social context is an important factor in studies on the adoption of innovation, in order to investigate the influence of social contexts on adoption of innovation. This study is expected to make following contributions. First, previous studies have largely dealt with technological innovation as a key factor to adoption of technological products such as mobile phones, while overlooking symbolic innovation. Accordingly, this study examines symbolic innovation as a new factor to adoption to help establish a new theoretical foundation for the studies on the factors influencing consumers adoption of mobile phones. Second, this study will provide implications for marketing strategies by looking into the influence of symbolic innovation on consumers adoption of mobile phones. In other words, marketers will implement new strategies to improve their brand or product awareness by well understanding the symbolic innovation, a psychological factor affecting consumers adoption of mobile phones, on top of the importance of the technological aspects. Hypotheses Hypothesis 1: Perceived technological innovation (PTI) positively influence perceived social pressures (PSP). Hypothesis 2: Perceived symbolic innovation (PSI) positively influence perceived social pressures(psp). Hypothesis 3: Perceived social pressures(psp) positively influence adoption. gasoilneheat@gmail.com 166

168 Hypothesis 4: Perceived technological innovation (PTI) positively influences social conspicuousness (SC). Hypothesis 5: Perceived symbolic innovation (PSI) positively influences social conspicuousness (SC). Hypothesis 6: Social conspicuousness (SC) positively influences adoption. Methodology The data for the study were collected from 500 samples in their 20 s and 30 s by an online survey. In this study, pictures of four different smart phones that were about to be released were presented to subjects, along with detail description of the cutting-edge features, and the subjects were asked to choose one of them. They were also asked to describe who affect their smart phone purchase and characteristics of the people. Results & Conclusion Prior to verifying the hypotheses, the validity and reliability of each construct were confirmed by confirmatory factor analysis and testing average variances extracted (AVE). And in order to analyses the influences of perceived technology innovation (PTI) and perceived symbolic innovation(psi) on perceived social pressure(psp), social conspicuousness (SC) and adoption the structural model proposed by this study was verified. In order to analyses the influences of PTI and PSI on PSP, SC and adoption the structural model proposed by this study was verified. As a result of the covariance structural equation modeling, the fit indexes were χ₂= , df=57, p=.000, GFI=.940, CFI=.965, and RMSEA=.075, which imply the model fits are satisfactory. Figure 1 as below shows the covariance structural equation model with path coefficients. <Figure 1> Hypotheses Testing by Structural Equation Modeling All of the hypotheses were supported.first, the influence of PTI on social pressures was found to be statistically significant and PTI was identified to affect adoption through PSP.Second, the influence of PSI on social pressures was found to be statistically significant, and PSI was also identified to 167

169 affect adoption through PSP.Third, the influence of PTI on SC was found to be statistically significant, and PTI was impacted to affect adoption through SC.Fourth, the influence of PSI on SC was found to be statistically significant, and PSI was also identified to affect adoption through SC.Fifth, the total influence of PSI on adoption was identified to be greater than that of PTI. This study verified that consumers recognize innovativeness of mobile phones in two dimensions: technology innovation and symbolic innovation.in other words, mobile phones also have new symbolic meanings, like luxury, sophisticated, high-end or trend-setting products, by reference groups, and consumers adopt the products for the new symbolic values, rather than the technology. While symbolic innovation is formed by interactions between members of a social system, technological innovation is closely related to technology development and thus seems less likely to be affected by a social system. However, just like symbolic innovation, technological innovation is also adopted by social pressures and social conspicuousness. Accordingly, if a state-of-the-art technology product fails to be endorsed by members of a social system, it will become meaningless. Thus, manufacturers that create innovative technology products should also pay attention to social context factors, like social pressures and social conspicuousness. Reference Davis, F. D. (1986). A technology acceptance model for empirically testing new end-user information systems theory and results. Doctorial Dissertation, MIT. Hirschman, E. C. (1982). Symbolic and Techology as Sources for the Generation of Innovations. [Article]. Advances in Consumer Research, 9(1), Katz, J. E., & Sugiyama, S. (2005). Mobile phones as fashion statements: the co-creation of mobile communication's public meaning. Mobile communications, 31(1), Katz, J. E., & Sugiyama, S. (2006). Mobile Phones as Fashion Statements : Evidence from Student Surveys in the US and Japan. New Media & Society, 8(2), Acknowledgement This research was supported by the MKE(The Ministry of Knowledge Economy), Korea, under the CITRC(Convergence Information Technology Research Center) support program (NIPA H ) supervised by the NIPA(National IT Industry Promotion Agency) 168

170 M7 Market Growth and Import Penetration of Watch Market in Korea since the year 2002 Yongju Kim Department of Fashion Design, College of Arts, Hansung University, Korea In recent years, market for watches has grown continuously, especially market share of high priced import watches has grown tremendously. Last year, despite the severe depression in fashion market in Korea, one department store launched the world five luxury watch brands (Patek Phillippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, A. Lange & Sohne), of which price reaches up to $2,000 million won. Consumers have recognized watches as fashion items rather than just functional goods, which may be coordinated according to individual s TPOs. Especially as men's fashion market has grown more rapidly than women's one, man's watch market has expanded rapidly. According to the men's fashion expert, man has limited choices of self-expression by fashion styles, such as neckties, shoes, and watches. so man has tendency to attach to the watch in order to express his fashion styles by less direct way than woman. In addition, Korea-EFTA FTA in September of 2006 and Korea-EU FTA in July of 2011 have effects on the growth of import of european high priced watches. Last year, domestic market of clocks, watches, and parts was 1 trillion and 715 billion won (1billion and 28million dollars) and 94.8% was for watches. Import penetration of watches was 92.2% and Swiss showed market share of 96.6% of import watches in The purpose of this study was to analyze the trend of import of watches by country and the unit price and analyze the effect of Korea-EFTA FTA and Korea-EU FTA in Korean watch market. For data collection, 10 years of import statistics of The Harmonized System(HS) of code, 9101 ( wristwatches, pocket-watches and other watches, including stop-watches, with case of precious metal or of metal clad with precious metal wrist-watches, electrically operated whether or not incorporating a stop-watch facility ) and 9102 ( wrist-watches, pocket-watches and other watches, including stop watches, other than those of heading 9101 wrist-watches, electrically operated, whether or not incorporating a stop-watch facility ) were collected from Trade Statistics Service network of the Korea International Trade Association ( For data analysis, countries with higher than 0.1% of import penetration in 2011 and 2012 were screened first. Six countries (Swiss, France, China, USA, Germany, Japan) were selected for HS code 9101 whereas 11 countries (Swiss, France, China, USA, Germany, Japan, Hong Kong, Italy, Finland, Philippines, Thailand) were selected for the further yearly analysis. As results, import penetration of Swiss were absolutely high both for HS code 9101 and 9102, that showed 96.5% and 61.8%, respectively in For HS code 9101, Swiss comprised of 93.4% of total import value from 2002 to May of 2012 and the rest five countries took only 6.6% as cumulative figure. However, in terms of weight, Swiss took only 13.4% whereas china took 72.0% of cumulative weight that was converted only 1.8% of value. That is, in case of HS code 9101, that is generally classified as wrist watches in consumer market, over 70% of watches in numbers were from China, but over 90% of market value was created by Swiss. For the last 10 years, market share of Swiss made watches in value increased continuously, showing 64.4% in 2002 to 96.5% in especially since the year 2007 (Korea-EFTA FTA, Sep. 2006), import penetration was always higher than 95%. yjkim@hansung.ac.kr 169

171 However, since Korea-EU FTA in July of 2011, increase rate of import from France, Germany, England, and Finland were higher than Swiss. For instance, imports from France increased 418% in 2011 and 1,050% in 2012 whereas imports from England increase 14,192% in 2011 and 5,888% in 2012, that implies future import trend from EU countries. Also, imports from US and Japan has increased continuously since 2009, when men s fashion including men s wrist watch markets were reported to be growing. For HS code 9102 that is differentiated by the case material from 9101 and may be more casual and lower price than HS code 9101, it showed different trend in terms of number of import countries and unit prices. As in case of HS code 9101, Swiss showed continuously increased import penetration since the Korea-EFTA FTA, but it induced 63.4% in 2012 which is lower than in case of HS code Also in comparison unit price($/g), HS code 9102 was 1.12 whereas HS code 9101 was China showed 33.1% of market share in cumulative figures for the last 10 years, but increase rate and market share have decreased since In contrast, imports from EU countries such as France, Germany, Finland have increased continuously although import values are not still significant. Especially, other EU countries with lower than 0.1% import penetration in 2011 and 2012, such as Denmark, Austria, England showed higher than 200% of rapid growth in 2011 and/or Considering the Korea-EU FTA came into effect only one year ago, import from these EU countries would increase rapidly because EU countries are composed of many individual countries and they can provide diverse styles and benefits that can fit to more casual watches, which is HS code 9102 than HS code In conclusion, domestic market of watches has increased continuously despite the depression and it may be prospected as to grow in future because of consumers life style changes and the growth of men s fashion market. Imports from EU countries and EFTA countries may have advantages due to FTAs and it may result in increase of unit price. Assuming that many FTAs with Japan, China, or others countries may take into actions in near future and Korea-US FTA may show visible effect soon, import penetration would be higher than present. As the limitation of present study, trade statistics of watches (HS code 91 are not classified by user types (ex. male, female) or styles (ex. formal, casual, sporty), which is different from the case of clothing (HS code 25). Therefore, more detailed and direct market implication based on results of the study can not be mentioned. 170

172 M8 Effects of the Shopping Orientation on the Evaluative Criteria of Bag Daegeun Jun Department of Clothing & Textiles, Andong National University, Korea A bag is one of essential fashion items for the people and it could be used for various purposes. A briefcase and a handbag can be a professional symbol for a business person and luxurious one can be a way of conspicuous consumption. On the other hand, bags such as back pack, casual cross bag are expression of the owner s taste for fashion and the university students think practicality is an important reason to purchase a bag. Young people such as students do not always choose the bag by its utilitarian use. They may consider some other factors such as brand, design and so on for its functional and hedonic purpose. As people have a few bags in comparison with the number of clothing they have, they have a tendency to pay more attention to their purchase of bag. Their choice will be different on their shopping orientation and on the evaluative criteria of bag they emphasize. This study revealed the effects of shopping orientation and consumer s socio-psychological characteristics on the purchase behaviors of fashion goods. To investigateclothing purchase behaviorsof young people in their 20 s, perceived body shape and consumer s socio-psychological characteristicswere adopted as explanatory factors and purchase criteria of clothing, clothing purchase intention were adopted as dependent factors. To conduct this study, university students who wereresiding in Andong and surrounding areas were surveyed in the shopping mall and at the campusof universities by the researcher. Data were collected by means of a questionnaire from May 25 to June 10, After all, 220 complete questionnaires were used out of 250 obtained ones. The data was analyzed using SPSS The reliability of the research items was measured using Cronbach s alpha. Factor analysis was used to group the items of evaluative criteria of bag and shopping orientation. Regression analysis was used to confirm the influence of evaluative criteriaof bag on the purchase behaviorsof fashion goods. Finally, ANOVA was used to identify the differences among the groups divided by shopping orientation and socio-psychological characteristics. The results are as follows. First, factor analysis on shopping orientation resulted in 4 dimensional structures of shopping orientation for the sample: 6 factors were ease, conformity, loyalty, rationality, pleasure and symbolism. 4 groups were obtained after cluster analysis on shopping orientation. 4groups were practical, indifferent, multilateral and peacockish groups. Factor analysis on evaluative criteria of bag showed3factors: 3 factors were internal commodity, external commodity and symbolism. Second, groups divided by shopping orientation showed meaningful differences in evaluative criteria of bag. The practical group and multilateral group showed more interest in size and price. The multilateral group showed less interest in design and color but the peacockish group showed more interest in design and color. Third, internal commodity, external commodity and symbolism affected purchase behaviors of fashion goods. In details, internal commodity (+) and symbolism (+) significantly affected purchase intention of luxurious fashion goods. External commodity (-) and symbolism (+) significantly affected the purchase intention of fake luxurious fashion goods. External commodity (-) and Symbolism (+) significantly affected the purchase intention of second handed fashion goods. These results demonstrated that symbolism including fashion and brand was important for the purchase of fashion jdgeun@andong.ac.kr 171

173 goods. It could be assumed that people fundamentally considered the social relationship caused by the fashion goods they carried. It was also proved that external commodity such as design, color and sewing was important for the purchase of fake-luxurious fashion goods and of second handed fashion goods. 172

174 M9 Flow and E-impulse Buying for Fashion Products Eun Joo Park, Shin Young Park Department of Fashion Design, Dong-A University, Korea I. Introduction A recent report believes that shopping malls for fashion products are powerful drivers of sales at Internet. Online sales of fashion products increased to $ 32 billion, which is growing continually and ranked as the best selling product accounting for 17 percent of retail sales in e-shopping venues. Impulse buying is defined as a sudden and immediate purchase with no pre-shopping intentions which triggered by various factors (e.g., products and promotional events) encountered while browsing at Internet(Forney & Park, 2009; Park et al., 2006; Piron, 1991). Fashion products have important symbolic meanings for consumers to construct and express their self-identities and images. These features of fashion products triggered impulse buying and did not lead to the formation of cognitive structured attitudes or intentions in the context of e-shopping. Flow is described as a state of optimal psychological experience and has been viewed as a crucial determinant of consumer s attitudes (e.g., purchase intention and pleasure of e-shopping) and behaviors (e.g., purchase and re-purchase)(haung, 2006; Tung, 2006; Hausman, 2009; Hsu et al., 2011). Many studies suggested flow as a key variable influencing consumer behavior at internet (Haung, 2006; Tung, 2006; Hausman, 2009; Hsu et al., 2011a, b). The purpose of this study was to investigate the mediating effect of flow on e-impulse buying for fashion products by testing a research model developed on the previous researches. II. Methods A total of 598 usable data were collected from the offline (e.g., lecture rooms in Universities) and online (e.g., cyworld, Naver cafe). Respondents, who had experienced purchases of fashion products at Internet, were students living in the metropolitan area of southeastern South Korea. Data were analyzed by the chi-square test, factor analysis, correlation analysis, regression analysis, and path analysis using SPSS III. Results and implications Results of this study showed that e- mall attributes consisting visual attributes (e.g., interface design, logo design, model image, and interface coordination image) and product attributes (e.g., various colors, sizes, trendy products), significantly influenced e-impulse buying which was mediated by consumer's flow. That is, the flow triggered by e-mall attributes had influenced directly e-impulse buying of fashion products. Therefore, the flow was an important mediating variable encouraging e- impulse buying of fashion products. E-retailers of fashion products should work out various strategies related to visual attributes and product attribute to increase consumer's flow, such as enjoyment, pleasure, and commitment, and then to stimulate e-impulse buying of fashion products. This study could offer the academic significance of extending the e-impulse buying models and the marketing strategies of e-impulse buying for fashion products. ejpark@dau.ac.kr 173

175 References Forney J,C. and Park, E.J. (2009). "Browsing perspectives for impulse buying behavior of college students", TAFCSResearch Journal, 1(1), 1-3. Gupta, R. and Kabadayi, S. (2010). "The relationship between trusting beliefs and web site loyalty: The moderating role of consumer motives and flow", Psychology & Marketing, 27(2), Haung, M.H. (2006). "Flow, enduring, and situational involvement in the web environment: a tripartite second-order examination", Psychology & Marketing, 23(5), Hausman, A. and Siekpe, J.S. (2009). "The effects of web interface features on consumer online purchase intentions", Journal of business research, 62, Hsu, C.L., Chang, K.C. and Chen, M.C. (2011a) "Flow experience and internet shopping behavior: investigating the moderating effect of consumer characteristics", Systems Research and Behavioral Science Syst. Res. DOI: Hsu, C.L., Chang, K.C. and Chen, M.C. (2011b) "The impact of website quality on consumer satisfaction and purchase intention: perceived playfulness and perceived flow as mediators", Information Systems and E-Bus Management, 15. Piron, F.(1991). "Defining impulse purchasing", Advanced in Consumer Research, 18, Tung, W., Moore, R. and Engelland, B. (2006). "Exploring Attitudes and purchase intentions in a brand-oriented, highly interactive website setting", The Marketing Management Journal, 16(2),

176 M10 The Effects of Word of Mouth regarding Fashion Products in Mobile Social Networking Services Ji eun Jung, Ho Jung Choo, Ha Kyung Lee Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea Consumers go through a process of collecting data from many sources varying from advertisement or contacting a salesperson to word-of-mouth (WOM) from person to person, in order to finally make a decision about purchasing. Although it has never been a type of direct marketing by an industry, WOM seems to have had the most powerful impact. WOM is communication formed amongst consumers and its value has been acclaimed highly for credibility and mutual communication. (Kim, 2003) With the expansion of the use of Internet today, online word-of-mouth ('e-wom') is becoming more influential. Furthermore, as smart phones are being used extensively, WOM communication through mobile devices, especially through social networkingservices (SNSs), is emerging. Therefore, industries are advancing to make an inroad into marketing via SNSs. Many studies on the effects of e-wom have been done, but not enough studies have been conducted on the effects of the mobile WOM, which is different from the e-wom generated by Internet portal sites or online shopping malls. As a result, I would like to provide a strategic perspective for the decision makers in the mobile marketing sector by presenting a study on the effects of WOM in a mobile environment. This study describes the characteristics of WOM through mobile SNS by conducting prior research and analyzing related data. Facebook has the greatest number of domestic users and applicants among all mobile SNS, and thus, I focused on the expansion of fashion-related word-of-mouth information and conducted research on the following issues:1) in the mobile Facebook environment, how the message type, direction of information, method of suggestion, and tie strength affects the acceptance level of WOM and the WOM activity; 2) how the mutual interaction among message type, direction of information, method of suggestion, and tie strength affects the acceptance level of WOM and the WOM activity; and 3) how the message type, direction of information, method of suggestion, and tie strength have a moderation effect onuser innovativeness (i.e., technical innovativeness and fashion innovativeness). In order to find the answers to these problems, I divided the study into two parts. Study I was on the study of WOM effects according to the message type, direction of information, and tie strength. Then for Study II, I conducted research on determining the method of suggestion and the effects of WOM depending on the tie strength under controlled circumstances of WOM and direction of information. The results were as follows. First, while the message type, method of suggestion, and tie strength seemed to influence the acceptance of WOM, only the tie strength had an effect on the WOM activity. Thus, the variables influencing the acceptance of WOM and WOM activity were different. Although the message type and tie strength had an effect on the acceptance of WOM in Study I, only the tie strength affected the WOM activity. Also, the method of suggestion and tie strength both influenced the acceptance level of WOM in Study II, but similar to Study I,only the tie strength had an effect on the WOM activity. Therefore, rather than looking at the effects of WOM from a holistic perspective, I realized the importance of subdividing the effects into two stages: the acceptance level of WOM stage and the chooho@sun.ac.kr 175

177 WOM activity stage. In order for industries to maximize the SNS marketing effect, there needs to be a distinguished tactic to encourage the consumers to engage in activities of conveying positive information related to the industry. Second, similar to the former on/off-line WOM communication, it was proven that people are prone to accept information that is more realistic, objective, and negative. The results of Study I showed that realistic and negative information had the greatest effect on the acceptance level of WOM and WOM activity when presented with a scenario composed of a mixture of the three following situations: when the message type was divided into realistic information and judgemental information; when the direction of information was divided into positive information and negative information; and when the tie strength was divided into a strong tie strength situation and weak tie strength situation. Since people tend to focus more on negative and objective information more than positive and judgemental information, industries need to continuously monitor negative WOM information, and it would be important to quickly take action to offset the negative information when it occurs. In addition, during the acceptance of WOM stage, the characteristics of the message itself and the tie strength as its relational characteristic both have important influence. However, at the stage of WOM activity, it was proven that only the tie strength influenced the degree of activity. Tie strength showed to have the greatest influence on both acceptance of WOM and WOM activity in Studies I and II. People tended to trust and convey the information if they felt that the transmitter of information and oneself had an intimate relationship. In other words, according to the intimacy between the transmitter and the recipient of information, the process of retransmitting information varied. Therefore, if tie strength could be utilized in establishing strategies for mobile marketing or SNS marketing, the effect could be greater. Finally, people tend to accept information with visual factors, such as images and video clips rather than a simple text message. According to Study II, people showed greater interest to accept the information with a visually stimulating image at first contact with the information, rather than information simply in text or those requiring additional effort or activity, such as links. The SNS environment is capable of utilizing fun and creative factors (e.g., images), has a fast connection to additional information, can deliver live performances and instigate interest;these advantages will maximize the effect for conveying the image of industry, brand, or product in the most appropriate and simulating method possible. In this study, I aimed to offer a practical perspective to the fashion industry and marketers who have an interest in SNS marketing. I have defined the distinct characteristics of mobile WOM that have been formed by a combination of characteristics of the former on/off-line WOM, and I hope this investigation will be academically helpful to researchers in the future. This research was supported by The Ministry of Knowledge Economy, Korea, under the Convergence Information Technology Research Center support program (NIPA-2012-H ) supervised by the National IT Industry Promotion Agency. 176

178 M11 Advertisement/PR Activities of Online Fashion Shopping-malls & Factors to Attract Consumers by Each Type of Shopping-mall Sangwoo Seo 1), Ho Jung Choo 2), Ha Kyung Lee 2) 1) YERAGO Inc., Korea 2) Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University, Korea I. Introduction Online Shopping is a part of Korean culture (the Statistics Korea, 2011). Therefore, a lot of people and companies jump on the wagon to sell their products online. Various types of online shopping channels emerge, triggering the excessive competition which, in turn, forces shop owners to pay huge marketing costs to develop new customers and maintain the existing customers (Kim & Yun, 2011). On this context, the method to enhance competitiveness is divided into two: one is to increase the royalty of existing customers by building trust and maximizing the customer s satisfaction, and the other is to attract new customers. The first method to maintain the existing customers is the continuous implementation of CRM (Customer Relationship Management) through issuing coupons, using a point system, and sending PR-related . In the online shopping world, CRM is called as e-crm, and it means the activities for customer-oriented innovation by translating the high-quality data and real-time analysis data on the customer information (garnered through the internet) to marketing activities (Pan & Lee, 2003). Developing new customers is the second method to survive in fierce competition. As various types of online shopping malls emerge and the number of online shoppers increases exponentially, allowing customers to frequently change the online shop for transaction. Additionally, as they are able to utilize various search functions, the customers are capable of selecting a shopping mall and products they call for. Once a new consumer visits a shopping mall, there is much higher possibility to increase sales volume than the regular customers with high royalty to the shop. Under the maximized competition, online fashion shopping-malls make various efforts to manage the existing customers and to entice new customers. Therefore, this research aims to i) identify the factors to attract the real customers among various strategies for advertisement/pr implemented by the online shops and ii) to explore whether the factors are different or not. II. Research Methods 2.1 Hypothesis Premise 1. To grasp factors, among advertisement/pr activities to manage the existing customers, which marketing strategy actually attracts the customers to visit online fashion shopping malls, and to identify if the factors are different by types of the shopping-mall. Premise 2. To grasp factors, among advertisement/pr activities to attract new customers, which elements from the marketing program actually leads to visit online fashion shopping mall, and to identify if the factors are different by types of the shopping-mall. chooho@sun.ac.kr 177

179 2.1 Questionnaires and Data Collection Constructed a survey in order to identify i) the factors in bringing re-visitors to the shopping mall and ii) the factors to lead first time visitors to a new shopping mall, in terms of advertisement/ PR activities performed by online shops. Previous interviews of owners and managers at the various online malls to identify the activities to manage the existing customers and to entice new customers. Multiple choice questionnaires were constructed, and collect about 150 responses, stated the reason for re-visit and new visit through advertisement / PR activities from April 13 th to 20 th 2012, and then their answers were analyzed. A survey company dedicated to the Internet Research supported this research. III. Study Results and Their Implication 3.1 Factors for Revisit of Customers triggered by Advertisement/PR Activities of Online Fashion Shopping Malls To identify the factor for consumers to revisit the online shop by each type of online shopping mall, this study performed Chi-square analysis on advertisement/pr activities. When it comes to the type of online fashion mall operation, it can be divided into an online-dedicated shopping mall, which sells products only through the online market, and an online/offline shopping mall, which sells products both online and offline. It is also categorized into a special mall, a shopping mall selling only fashion products, and a general mall, a shopping mall selling fashion and other products, depending on the specialization of shopping mall (Park & Park, 2012). Total number of samples is higher than that of genuine samples (N=150) as multiple choices are possible. The result of Chi-square analysis demonstrated each type of shopping mall has significant difference, shown by the above-cited figure: shopping mall operation (p=.005), and sipping mall specialization (p=.033). <Table 1> shows the result. <Table 1> the result of Chi-square analysis the activities to manage the existing customers and to entice them to revisit General Mall Special Mall Division Banner SMS SNS Subway Ads TV Ads Bus Ads Magazine Ads Radio Ads TV Sponsor Newspaper Article Card Others total Membership Observation Expectation Observation Expectation total Online Online /Offline Observation Expectation Observation Expectation total , the conventional method of e-crm, has the highest rank as the revisit factor of existing customers. In addition, direct PR strategy through SMS also turns out to be effective, and banner is proved to be a good tool to enable new and existing customers to visit the shopping mall. Regarding a general mall, TV ads and card membership show higher observed value than expected, because usually general shopping malls are large-sized companies such as G-market, and 11st Avenue, who could easily afford to spend money on fairly expensive PR/advertisement activities to attract consumers actively, and also consumers swiftly respond to such actions. However, in terms 178

180 of a special mall, the observed value of banner advertisement is higher than expected, meaning the banner ads on a regular basis can be considered as a good vehicle to recall the mall to the mind of existing customers. In comparison between online-dedicated shopping malls and online/offline shopping malls, it is proven that the banner ads are less effective than its expectation, to lead the existing consumers to the revisit, in case of online/offline shopping malls. However, in case of online-dedicated malls, banner ads show higher value than its expectation. Therefore, the research leads to the conclusion that banner ads are more effective in case of online-dedicated fashion malls while they are less effective factor to make consumers visit, in case of online/offline shopping malls. Furthermore, in case of online/offline shopping malls, register membership system is very effective to entice consumers. This concludes that the strategy of attaining membership card is an effective apparatus to maintain the existing customers. 3.2 Factors for New Visit of Consumers triggered by Advertisement/ PR activities of Online Fashion Shopping Malls To identify the rationale for consumers to newly visit the online shop by each type of online shopping mall, Chi-square analysis on advertisement/pr activities was applied. As mentioned by previous analysis, total number of sample is higher than genuine number as multiple answers are possible. The result of Chi-square analysis shows significant difference; the operation of shopping malls (p=.028) and the specialization of shopping malls (p=.044). <Table 2> the result of Chi-square analysis activities to attract new customers and to entice them to make a first visit General Mall Special Mall Online Online /Offline Division Banner SMS SNS Subway Ads TV Ads Bus Ads Magazine Ads Radio Ads TV Sponsor Newspaper Article Card Others total Membership Observation Expectation Observation Expectation total Observation Expectation Observation Expectation total Among the factors to entice new customers to visit an online fashion shopping mall, has the highest value as the previous analysis. It is because is checked largely under the internet environment and is very convenient in that a new customer could easily find the site he/she has interest in through the linkage system. The combination of research results guides us to the conclusion that , a conventional e-crm method, is one of few strong tools to manage the existing customers and attract new consumers at a reasonable cost. On top of that, banner ads are also effective means to entice new customers. TV ads or subway ads is relatively effective to develop new customers, which is differentiated from strategy for the management of existing customers. The stark comparison between general malls with special malls proves that banner ads have higher effectiveness than expected in case of special malls while TV ads, subway ads, or membership 179

181 card is more effective in case of general malls. In terms of online-dedicated malls, banner ads have higher observation value than expected, and in case of online/offline malls, the newspaper article is higher than expected to allure new customers. IV. Conclusion This study was designed to grasp the factors to lead customers to visit the online fashion shopping malls and to understand the effectiveness of various advertisement/pr activities. Particularly, this study is highly implicative as it is conducive to devising effective tools to manage the existing customers and attract new customers by each type of online shops. Among various advertisement/pr activities undertaken by online fashion malls, ranks first as the factor of re-visit, followed by banner ads, and SMS, but the result is slightly different depending on the type of shopping mall. In addition, as to the factor of first-time visit, ranks first as well, followed by banner ads, and various ads, but it also different by each type of shopping mall. The bottom line is that the effective method to manage the existing customers and to allure new customers is different depending on the type of each online fashion mall, but it is also limitted. Overall, it is required to perform follow-up studies by categorizing the type of shopping mall in more detail and by utilizing more acute measurement tool by each type of mall. Reference Statistics Agency of Korea. (2011). Quarterly and Annual Trend of e-commerce and Online Shopping p.11 Kim, H. S., & Eune, J. H. (2011). Preferences of product recommendation based on SNS friends in online shopping mall. Korean Society of Basic Design & Art. 12(1), Pan, S.L., &Lee, J.N.(2003). Using e-crm for a unified view of the customer, Communications of The ACM, 46(4), Park, S. Y., & Park, E. J. (2011). Types of Internet Shopping Malls for Fashion Products. Korean Association of Human Ecology, 20(2), This research was supported by The Ministry of Knowledge Economy, Korea, under the Convergence Information Technology Research Center support program (NIPA-2012-H ) supervised by the National IT Industry Promotion Agency. 180

182 M12 Consumer Values: The Development of Marketing Strategies for Luxury Fashion Brands Yi Chang Yang Department of Fashion Styling and Design Communication, Shih Chien University, Taiwan Abstract Rising purchasing power has resulted in rapid economic growth in Eastern Asia, pointing to a critical need for consumer-based market research in the region. The study examined the relationships between cultural dimensions, consumer values and evaluative criteria possessed and used by young consumers when comparing and evaluating Luxury fashion brands. Numerous statistical techniques were used for analysis and the results indicated that four types of consumer values could be used to distinguish and explain consumers hierarchy of evaluative criteria in terms of apparel. These differences across the consumer values are used to propose ideas for how international manufacturers and retailers of fashion products can improve their marketing activities and thereby obtain competitive advantage, as discussed in the section on marketing implications. Key words:consumer value, luxury fashion brand, marketing strategy yang.yichang@gmail.com 181

183 M13 Product Attributes and E-impulse Buying for Apparel Products Eun Joo Park Department of Fashion Design, Dong-A University, Korea I. Introduction Apparel is a common e-purchase product and ranks as the best-selling online product, which accounts for 17 percent of retail sales in e-shopping venues in An apparel product is also a representative experiential product with symbolic meaning that can lead to various hedonic consumerbehavior, such as impulse buying (Park and Kim, 2008). E-impulse buying may be defined as a sudden and immediate purchase with no pre-shopping intentions which is stimulated by various factors (e.g., product attributes and promotional events) encountered while browsing online (Forney & Park, 2009; Park et al., 2006).E-impulse buying occurs online purchases of sensory products (e.g., clothing, accessories, jewelry, and cosmetics). E-retailers are interested in how product attributesstimulate e-shoppers to browse and purchase products they do not plan to buy. E-retailing encourages impulse buying for consumers to browse easier accessproducts and then to make (Madhavaram and Laverie, 2004). Especially, apparel product attributes may be important in predicting impulse buying. For traditional retailers, apparel is viewed as a high impulsive product category (Park and Kim, 2008). However, for feel and touch products, product attribute presentation on a website can be a more critical stimulus to promote e-impulse buying. Additionally, e-impulse buying of apparel products could be occurred by browsing hedonically (Park et al., 2006). Various cues of product attributes such as price, sensory aesthetics, selection, and visual elements could triggere-impulse buying during browsing at Internet. Because of the inability to touch apparel products in e-shopping, consumers need product-specific shopping content (e.g., color, size, design, fabric) to substitute for a more sensory experience (Kim and Knight, 2007) The objective of this study was to investigate the critical factors of product attributes to impact on e-impulse buying for apparel, mediated by browsing on shopping websites in South Korea. This study would provide e-retailers the informationof product attributes and e-impulse buying for strategic development and promotion in apparel markets. II. Methods A self-administered questionnaire was developed using multi-item scales drawn from the literature. Respondents were asked to list a shopping website they frequently used and assess the questions based on their experience with that site.all items were measured on a 7-point scale, with anchors of 1 = very unlikely and 7 = very likely. The sample for the study included undergraduate students from the metropolitan area of southeastern South Korea who had home-based Internet access and experience with online apparel product purchases. Data collection was conducted during regularly scheduled classes The sample was primarily female (77.2%) and ranged from 18 to 36 years old, with an average of 21.9.Data were analyzed by factor analysis andstructural equation modelingusing SPSS 18.0 and LISREL ejpark@dau.ac.kr 182

184 III. Results and implications CFA revealedthat apparel product attributes perceived by consumers were confirmedthree factors, such as variety of selection, price, and sensory attributes (e.g., color, sizing, and styling), and browsing was consisted two factors (e.g., utilitarian browsing and hedonic browsing) in online shopping. Results showed that apparel product attributes were significantly related to browsing and e- impulse buying.especially, variety and price of productattributes would play an important role in browsing and e-impulse buying for apparel products, whilesensory attributes influenced only e- impulse buying. Utilitarian browsing had a negative effect on the e-impulse buying for apparel, whereas hedonic browsing had a positive effect.these results confirmed anextended theory of e- impulse buying behavior, and suggested that browsing is a critical mediating factor for product attributes to influencee-impulse buying for apparel purchases.managerial implications for more effectively managing the process of securing online customers through the use of utilitarian and hedonic product information are discussed. References Forney J,C. and Park, E.J. (2009). "Browsing perspectives for impulse buying behavior of collegestudents", TAFCSResearch Journal, 1(1), 1-3. Kim E. Y. and Knight D. K. (2007). A path analytic exploration of consumer information search in online clothing purchases. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 31(12), Madhavaram S. R. and Laverie D. A.(2004). Exploring impulse purchasing on the Internet.Advances in Consumer Research, 31(1), Park E. J. Kim E. Y. (2008). Effects of consumer tendencies and positive emotion on impulse buying behavior for apparel. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textile,32(6), Park E. J., Kim E. Y., and Forney J. C.(2006). A structural model of fashion-oriented impulse buying behavior.journal of Fashion Marketing Management, 10(4),

185 Author Index 184 Author Country Number Author Country Number Akemi Isozaki Japan C15 Ho Sun Lim Korea S11 Chae Keun Lim Korea S9 Hsueh-Chin Ko Taiwan. O10 Chang Kyu Park Korea S11 Hye Suk Kim Korea O9 Charlotte Sze- Yeung Lai Hong Kong O7 Hye-Seon Chae Korea S10 Chia-Fen Li Taiwan O10 Hyo-Cher Kim Korea S10 Chil Soon Kim Korea C2, D5 Hyun Min Kong Korea M1 Chong Hee Yun Korea S9 Hyun Sook Bae Korea S1 Daegeun Jun Korea M8 Hyun-Jung Hwang Korea C11 Do Hee Kim, Korea S10 In Hwa Kim Korea C1 Do-Hyun Lee Korea S9 Jeom-Soon Yoon Korea D10 Dong-Hyun Kim Korea C8 Jeong Dae Jang Korea S4 Dong-Il Yoo Korea S2, S3 Jeong Sook Lee Korea S8 Dong-Won Jeon Korea O1 Jeong-ah Jang Korea C8 Eui Kyung Roh, Korea S5 Jeongmee Kim Korea C7 Eun hah Wee Korea M5 Ji eun Jung Korea M10 Eun Joo Park Korea M9, M13 Jin Woo Choi Korea M6 Eun Kyung Lee Korea D4 Jong-Jun Kim Korea O1 Eun-Jeong Ryou Korea. M4 Joo Hyun Park Korea S8 Eun-joo Cho Korea O4 Joohyun Lee Korea C3 Gilsoo Cho Korea S7 Joonseok Koh Korea S11 Gumhwa Kim Korea. C12, C15 Ju Youn Kwon Korea S10 Ha Kyung Lee Korea M10, M11 Ju-hee Park Korea O5 Haesook Kwon Korea D1 Jung Soon Lee Hanna Kim Korea M3 Jungsoon Lee Korea (Chungnam National Univ. ) Korea (Sangmyung Univ.) O2, S6 Heesoon Yang Korea D5 Jung-il Jun Korea C9, C10, C11, C13 Ho Jung Choo Korea M10, M11 Karen Ka- Leung Moon Korea C7 O7

186 Author Country Number Author Country Number Keiko Hiraragi Japan C12, C15 So-Young Kang Korea O1 Ki Yeon Nam Korea O2, S6 Sukhee Lee Korea D13 Kirsi Niinimäki Finland O3 Suk-Hyang Yang Korea D3 Kueng-Mi Choi Korea C9, C10, C11, C13 Sun Young Kim Korea. D11, D12 Kyung Hee Choi Korea D7 Sung Min Kim Korea C1 Kyung Jin Lee Korea C2 Sun-Hwa Kim Korea S10 Kyung Wha Oh Korea S5 Sun-Hwa Park Korea S9 Kyunghee Son Korea S2, S3 Sun-Mi Park Korea C9, C13, C14 Kyunghyun Lee Korea S7 SuYoung Ha Korea S4 Kyung-Suk Lee Korea S10 Tae-Gyou Kim, Korea S9 Mi-Jeong Kwon Korea D9 Taeko Hirokawa Japan C10, C12, C15 Mi-Kyoung Kim Korea O1 Wolhee Do Korea O8, C5 Ming Hai Cui China O9 Woo Mi Park Korea M5 Myungeun Lee Korea S7 Yi Chang Yang Taiwan M12 Myunghee Lee Korea C6 Yongju Kim Korea. M2, M7 Myung-ock Lee Korea O5 Yoshiko Yanagida Japan C12, C15 Oh-Kyung Kwon Korea S9 Youn Soon Lee Korea D8 Sae-eun Lee Korea M6 Young Lim Choi Korea C16, C17 Sangji Han Korea S7 Young-Sil Ryu Korea C9, C13 Sangwoo Seo, Korea M11 Youngsoo Yi- Chang Germany SeoHyo Kim Korea S11 Younsook Shin Korea S2, S3 Shin Young Park Korea M9 Yun Ja Nam Korea O9, C1, C3 Sooim Rha Korea C4 Yuri Lee Korea. M6 Soo-Kyoung Ahn Korea. M4 Yusun Lee Korea C2 Soon Ja Kim Korea D2 Soon-Young Kim Korea O6 D6 185

187 Aalto University ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We really appreciate of cooperation of all the members of program committee, and organizing staffs. Special thanks to hospitality of the president, the dean and all the faculties of Dept. of Fashion Design, School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Aalto University, Finland 186