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1 Ellen Maurer Zilioli (ed.) OPEN SPACE MIND MAPS Positions in Contemporary Jewellery Edited by the Nationalmuseum Stockholm. 208 pp., 17 x 25 cm, 139 colour ills. Hardcover. English [D] US$ ISBN: ART JEWELLERY AND ART DISCOURSE A STANDPOINT Jewellery has long transcended the boundaries of the traditional artisanal understanding of it. Art jewellery no longer accedes to being just simple decoration or a status symbol; it responds to everyday events, personal histories and experiences, global developments, to new forms of communication and perception. Its content can thus only be reflected within contemporary art discourse. Set against this backdrop, Open Space Mind Maps. Positions in Contemporary Jewellery explores art jewellery s position today. Thematically structured according to buzzwords, disparate approaches become apparent: the nomadic aspect, art as field research, and the tendency towards narrative imagery or transgressive provocation. The constellations of artists which emerge from the classifi cations are thus temporarily intended. Explaining the principle behind it, editor Ellen Maurer Zilioli says, The participants are conceived in ever new groupings. We are engaged in an open system of interconnectedness over many pages. Ultimately every object embodies the Mind Map of a single artist and their cultural background. In all, works by thirty artists from across the globe are presented, including those by teachers of leading academies in the field of art jewellery. It is here in particular Have you seen our online press portal? There you will find the printable covers, images and press releases of our new publications available for download. You can also leaf through our books on our website. We look forward to your visit. that the keen infl uence of female artists is visible. Their contribution to the paradigm shift in signature styles, thematic issues and the appearance of jewellery today cannot be evaluated highly enough just one of the reasons why the publication accords much space to the positions of and shifts in gender. This book, developed in collaboration with the Nationalmuseum Stockholm, presents in large-format illustrations and essays by renowned authors a comprehensive insight into current international art jewellery and its position within today s art discourse. A publication that thanks to the disruptions through its consciously set graphics and materiality also creatively honours the questions raised on the aesthetic of contemporary jewellery. With contributions by Ellen Maurer Zilioli, Inger Wästberg, Philip Warkander and a foreword by Berndt Arell Exhibition: Nationalmuseum Design at Kulturhuset Stadsteatern, Stockholm (Sweden), until 15 May 2016 For more information or free review copies, please do not hesitate to contact Winfried Stürzl arnoldsche ART PUBLISHERS Olgastraße 137, D Stuttgart Tel. +49 (0) Fax -79 presse@arnoldsche.com www. arnoldsche.com 1

2 CONTENTS AUTHOR'S BIOGRAPHIES 6 Berndt Arell Preface 11 Ellen Maurer Zilioli Open Space Mind Maps Positions in Contemporary Jewellery 21 Inger Wästberg The Swedish Perspective 27 Philip Warkander Art Jewellery A Reflection on Terminology 33 Catalogue 177 Appendix 178 Artists Biographies 203 Authors Biographies 205 Photo Credits 207 Index of artists ARTISTS Alm, Tobias Bielander, David Broadhead, Maisie Brovia, Beatrice Cho, Sungho Chun, Eunmi Eichenberg, Iris Filipe, Cristina Fischer, Benedikt Gianocca, Kiko Gimeno, Carolina Hanagarth, Sophie Harvey, Mielle Hedman, Hanna Kallfelz, Jutta Laitinen, Auli Mackert, Suska Marsland, Sally Mattsson, Märta Melland, Nanna Minewaki, Mikiko Pontoppidan, Karen Prokić, Janja Sazdic, Miro Sook Sinding, Aud Charlotte Ho Takeuchi, Mirei Tiitsar, Ketli Tuupanen, Tarja Weber, Norman Zanella, Annamaria Ellen Maurer Zilioli Art historian, academic employee of the Neue Sammlung The Design Museum Munich curator at the Neue Sammlung The Design Museum Munich organisation of the International Jewellery Symposium Here we are, Palazzo Vecchio, Florence/Italy. Co-curator of the Bruno Martinazzi retrospective, Palazzo Pitti, Florence; Palazzo Bricherasio, Torino; and Museum of Applied Arts, Frankfurt curator of the travelling exhibition of Norman Weber (Hanau, Munich, Brescia, Schwäbisch Gmünd) curator of the exhibition Bruno Martinazzi. Memory Maps, Neues Museum Nürnberg, Germany curator of the exhibition Bruno Martinazzi vivere essere volere bene, Pinacoteca of the Academy Albertina di Belle Arti, Turin/Italy curator of the exhibition Annette Lucks. Flipflop, Städtische Galerie im Leeren Beutel, Regensburg/Germany. Since 2014 gallery and office for project development in Munich. Inger Wästberg Inger Wästberg is an art historian, with a masters degree in contemporary jewellery. She has worked with information and advocacy in various organisations and capacities, and has been a member of the Stockholm City Council, vice chairman of Stockholm University, senior advisor to the Minister of Social Affairs, and director general of the Office of the Disability Ombudsman. She is a member of the Global Leadership Council at the Museum of Arts and Design, New York, and of the advisory board at Ädellab, University College of Arts, Craft and Design, Stockholm. Inger Wästberg has written books on disability legislation and New York. Philip Warkander Born 1978, holds the world s fi rst PhD in fashion studies. Currently he is assistant professor in fashion studies at Lund University while also working as a fashion writer and consultant for a selection of fashion magazines and brands in the Scandinavian region. He has also worked with a number of cultural institutions, such as the Swedish Embassy in London, Swedish Institute in Paris, and the Hallwyl Museum and Bonniers Konsthall in Stockholm. www. arnoldsche.com 2

3 038 David Bielander Cardboard, 2015, 4 bracelets, silver, white gold, each ca cm Foto: Dirk Eisel 048 Sophie Hanagarth Lipstick, 2013, rings, stainless steel, 3,5 3 2,5 cm Foto: Sophie Hanagarth 068 Mikiko Minewaki Choper, 2015, necklace, soft toy Pika chu, cm Foto: Mikiko Minewaki www. arnoldsche.com 3

4 086 Ketli Tiitsar Brooch V from the series Nature Morte. Skeleton, 2015, plum wood, paint, silver, 11,5 11,5 4,7 cm Foto: Dénes Farkas 099 Karen Pontoppidan CANVAS #53, 2011, brooch, canvas, paint, wood, tin, silver, iron, 9,5 5,5 2,5 cm Foto: Karen Pontoppidan 102 Carolina Gimeno Brooch, 2014, from the series por table pleasures, when intimacy becomes public, socks, copper, enamel, silver, 16 7,5 5 cm Foto: Niklas Enequist www. arnoldsche.com 4

5 112 Aud Charlotte Ho Sook Sinding Brooch Hundtrofé, 2005, silicone, hand painted, lineoleum, brass, ,5 cm, Nationalmuseum, Stockholm, donated by the Friends of Nationalmuseum, Bengt Julins fond, NM K 11/2010 Foto: Erik Cornelius/Nationalmuseum, Stockholm 130 Nanna Melland The Suitcase 2015/16 Foto: Nanna Melland 136 Iris Eichenberg New Rooms, 2008, object, wood, copper, enamel, steel, car paint, brass, cm Foto: Tim Thayer www. arnoldsche.com 5

6 140 Janja Prokić Alice (crown), 2014, from the collection Hidden place, silver, pearls, amethyst, enamel, silk, h. ca. 28 cm Foto: Michaela Čejkowá 153 Norman Weber Porträt # 3, 2006, brooch, silver blackened, lacquer, digital print, 12,5 9,8 4,5 cm Foto: Norman Weber 159 Maisie Broadhead Ball & Chain, 2015, installation, digital c-type print & plastic pearls, print size cm, pearl ball cm Foto: Maisie Broadhead www. arnoldsche.com 6