Textbook 01 Cosmetic Dermatology
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1 Textbook 01 Cosmetic Dermatology Fourth Edition Edited by Robert Baran, MD Nail Disease Genter Gannes, France Howard I. Maibach, MD Department af Dermatalagy University af Galifarnia San Francisca, Schaal af Medicine San Francisca, Galifarnia, U.S.A. informa healthcare New York london
2 Contents Preface... vi Contributors... xi Section I: Influences on Skin 1. Skin physiology and gender... 1 Ethel Tur 2. A quantitative approach to anatomy and physiology of aging skin: barrier, dermal structure, and perfusion Jeanette M. Kamell and Howard 1. Maibach 3. Climatic influence on cosmetic skin parameters Mathias Rohr and Andreas Schrader 4. Photodamage Karen Connolly, Camile L. Hexsei, and Henry W. Um Section 11: Cutaneous Absorption and Cosmetology 5. Skin barrier cream efficacy: evidence based Hongbo Zhai, Heidi P. Chan, and Howard I. Maibach 6. Using the behind-the-knee (BTK) test to evaluate lotion transfer from products to skin Miranda A. Farage 7. NaH penetration Xiaoying Hui, Ronald C. Wester, and Howard I. Maibach Section III: Pharmacology of Cosmetic Products and Ingredients 8. Sensitive skin: new findings yield new insights Miranda A. Farage and Howard 1. Maibach 9. Hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid) Birgit A. Neudecker, Robert Stern, and Howard 1. Maibach 10. Organic acids with novel functions, ex-hydroxy, aldobionic, N-acetylamino acids, and related compounds Ruey J. Yu and Eugene J. Van Scott 11. Retinyl propionate and related retinoids John E. Oblong 12. Idebenone (hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) Birgit A. Neudecker, Falko Diedrich, and Howard I. Maibach 13. Antioxidants Frank Dreher and Jens Thiele 14. Topical retinol: an efficacious solution for improvement of main photodamage signs Christiane Bertin and Thierry Oddos
3 viii CONTENTS 15. Applieations of total soy in skin eare Jue-Chen Liu, Jeff Wu, and Miri Seiberg 16. Kinetin Stanley B. Levy 17. Vrokinase and dry skin...,...,... "...,..., Yuji Katsuta 18. Ceramides and the skin Clive R. Harding, David f. Moore, and Anthony V. Rawlings 19. Perfumes Jeanne Duus Johansen 20. Do eonsumer relevant exposures to geraniol eause dinieal allergie eontact dermatitis in man? Jurij f. Hostynek and Howard I. Maibach 21. Survey of alternative and natural drugs in dermatology Cheryl Levin and Howard I. Maibach Seetion IV: Cosmetology for Non-pathological Skin 22. Skin eare products for normal, dry, and greasy skin Ce1ine Try, Laurence Nicod, and Philippe Humbert 23. Self-tanning products Stanley B. Levy 24. Astringents, masks, and aneillary skin eare products Zoe Diana Draelos 25. Cosmeeeutieals Marianne Nelson O'Donoghue 26. Photodamage: prevention Camile L. HexseI and Henry W. Lim 27. Photodamage: protection and reversal with topical antioxidants Karen E Burke Seetion V: Cosmetology for Specific Loeations and Conditions 28. Hair care John Gray and [eni Thomas 29. Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis farnes R. Schwartz, Caroline W. Cardin, Yvonne M. DeAngelis, and Thornas L. Dawson, Ir. 30. The periorbital wrinkle Martin R. Green 31. Cosmetology for normal nails Robert Baran and Douglas Schoon 32. Cosmetics for abnormal and pathological nails Douglas Schoon and Rohert Baran 33. Hand and body lotions F. Anthony Simion and David C. Story
4 34. Anticellulite products and therapies Enzo Berardesca and Manuela Carrera 35. Therapy of telangiectasia and varicose veins and their complications Robert A. Weiss and Margaret A. Weiss 36. Management of hirsutism and hypertrichosis Ralph M. Trzleb 37. Pigmentation: dyschromia Thierry Passeron and lean-paul Ortonne 38. Introduction to practical, aesthetic, and sodal approaches to appearance restoration Victoria L. Rayner Alatorre 39. Treatment of keloids loshua E. Lane, Tanda N. Lane, and lohn L. Ratz 40. Keratolytic treatment of acne Ali Alikhan and Howard 1. Maibach Seetion VI: Skin Care for Specific Groups 41. Cosmetics for men Robert Baran and Annick Pons-Guiraud 42. Ethnic cosmetics Enzo Berardesca, Grazia Primavera, Manuela Carrera, and Howard I. Maibach 43. Ethnic variation in hair Nina Otberg 44. Ethnic differences in skin properties Naissan O. Wesley, Lily Talakoub, and Howard I. Maibach 45. The menopause, skin, and cosmetology Michel Faure and Evelyne Drapier-Faure Section VII: Cosmetological Treatments 46. Mesotherapy Evangeline B. Handog and Ma. Teresita G. Gabriel 47. Microneedles and cosmetics Raja K. Sivamani and Howard I. Maibach 48. Photodynamic therapy in dermatology lacques Savary 49. Topical 5-fluorouradl formulations in actinic keratosis treatment Ravneet R. Kaur, Ali Alikhan, and Howard 1. Maibach 50. Cosmetic cryosurgery Rodney D. Sinclair and Poorna Weerasinghe 51. Botulinum toxins Doris Maria Hexsei and Arnold W. Klein 52. Soft tissue augmentation Emily P. Tierney and C. William Hanke 53. Bioelectricity Ying Sun and Jue-Chen Liu
5 x CONTENTS 54. Chemical peelings Philippe Deprez 55. Lasers and light sources for vascular and pigmented components of photoaging Corinne Erickson and Robert A. Weiss Section VIII: Noninvasive Assessment Techniques 56. An easy method to assess the antioxidative capacity of topical formulations Hongbo Zhai and Howard 1. Maibach 57. The antioxidative capacity of topical emulsion on uitraviolet exposure Hongbo Zhai and Howard I. Maibach 58. Treatment and noninvasive clinical assessment of androgenetic alopecia R. Scott Youngquist, Jeanette A. Richards, Caroline W. Cardin, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr. 59. Assessing the efficacy of moisturizers Whitney Hannon Index
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