DRY SKIN and MOISTURIZERS
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1 DERMATOLOGY: CUNICAL & BASIC SCIENCE SERIES DRY SKIN and MOISTURIZERS Chemistry and Function SECOND EDITION Edited by Marie Loden, Dr. Med. Sci. Howard I. Maibach, M.D. (cffi) Taylor & Francis V^* J Taylor &. Francis Group Boca Raton London New York A CRC title, part of the Taylor & Francis imprint, a member of the Taylor & Francis Group, the academic division of T&F Informa pic.
2 Contents Chapter 1 Introduction: Perspectives and Prospects Albert Kligman I The Skin Biochemistry and Function 5 7 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 The Skin as a Barrier Magnus Lindberg and Bo Forslind Epidermal Lipids and Formation of the Barrier of the Skin Philip W. Wertz Lipid Structures in the Permeability Barrier Lars Norlen Particle Probes and Skin Physiology Jan Pallon, Bo Forslind, and Magnus Lindberg Role of Calcium Ions in the Regulation of Skin Barrier Homeostasis Hanafi Tanojo, Xinfan Huang, and Howard I. Maibach Desquamation Torbjorn Egelrud Dry Skin and Hyperkeratotic Conditions 81 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Ichthyosis An Inborn Dryness and Scaliness of the Skin Anders Vahlquist Dry Skin in Atopic Dermatitis and Patients on Hemodialysis Motoji Takahashi and Zenro Ikezawa Experimentally Induced Dry Skin Mitsuhiro Denda Dryness in Chronologically and Photo-Aged Skin Ehrhardt Proksch ,17
3 Chapter 12 Itch Associated with Dryness of the Skin: the Pathophysiology and Influence of Moisturizers 127 Brett T. Summey Jr. and Gil Yosipovitch Chapter 13 Effects of Moisturizer in Psoriasis 135 Joachim W. Fluhr, Maria Breternitz, and Enz,o Berardesca II Formulations 145 Interactions with the Skin 147 Chapter 14 Moisturizers as a Medical, Biological. Psychological, Cultural, and Economic Factor 149 Gregor B.E. Jemec Chapter 15 New Methodology to Improve Epidermal Barrier Homeostasis 155 Mitsuhiro Denda Chapter 16 Outside and Inside Skin ph 161 Izabela Buraczewska Chapter 17 Dry Skin and Use of Proteases 171 A. V. Rowlings and R. Lad Chapter 18 Effects of Natural Moisturizing Factor and Lactic Acid Isomers on Skin Function 187 dive R. Harding and Anthony V. Rowlings Chapter 19 Clinical Evidence for the Use of Urea 211 Marie Laden Chapter 20 Glycerol Just a Moisturizer? Biological and Biophysical Effects 227 Joachim W. Fluhr, Anja Bornkessel, and Enzo Berardesca Chapter 21 Hyaluronan: Key to Skin Moisture 245 Robert Stern Chapter 22 Hydrophilic Pastes 279 Bernard Gabard and Christian Surber Chapter 23 Petrolatum 289 DavidS. Morrison Chapter 24 Phospholipids. Metabolites, and Skin Hydration 299 Miklos Ghyczy, Martin Albrecht, and Vladimir Vacata Chapter 25 Lanolins 309 Ian Harris and Udo Hoppe
4 Chapter 26 Essential Fatty Acids: Biological Functions and Potential Applications in the Skin 319 Lesley Elizabeth Rhodes and Amx Storey Chapter 27 Sphingolipids: from Chemistry to Possible Biologic Influence on the Skin 341 Hisashi Wakita Chapter 28 Effect of Moisturizers on the Structure of Lipids in the Outer Stratum Corneum of Humans 351 Keith D. Ertel, Ronald R. Warner, and Ying L. Boissy Chapter 29 Vitamins and Skin 375 Krautheim A. and Gollnick H.P.M. Chapter 30 Antimicrobials 391 Anke Ganger Chapter 31 Moisturizing Cleansers 405 K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan, K. Subramanyan, and Greg Nole III Skin Measurements 429 Chapter 32 Tribological Studies on Skin: Measurement of the Coefficient of Friction 431 Raja K. Sivamani, Gabriel, W.u., Norm V Gitis, and Howard I. Maihach Chapter 33 Smoothness of the Skin. Complexity, and Instrumental Approach 443 Jean Luc Leveque Chapter 34 Assessment of Skin Moisturization with Electrical Methods 451 Enzo Berardesca Chapter 35 Stratum Corneum Tape Stripping: Relationship with Dry Skin and Moisturizers 457 Frank Dreher and Howard I. Maibach Chapter 36 XLRS Squamometry Revisited 465 Enunanuelle Uhoda, Claudine Pierard-Franchimont. and G.E. Picrard Chapter 37 Methods for Testing Stratum Corneum Barrier Properties 475 Ludger Kolbe and Soeren Jaspers IV Skin Reactions 485 Chapter 38 Sensitive Skin 4S7 Heather L. Daughters. Ai-Lean Chew, and Howard I. Maihach Chapter 39 Stinging and Irritating Substances: Their Identification and Assessment 501 Karen Cooper. Marie Marriott. Lisa Peters, and David Baskelter
5 Chapter 40 Sensitizing Substances 515 A.E. Goossens Chapter 41 Regulatory Aspects on Safety 523 Monica Tammela Index 531
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