Customisation in Personal Care: Present & Future

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1 Customisation in Personal Care: Present & Future Belinda Carli Director, Institute of Personal Care Science

2 Overview Customisation Cosmeceuticals Colour Aroma

3 Customisation Consumers want what suits them can change daily Customisation: products that can be blended/manipulated to suit daily/seasonal changes DIY: creating their own Limited active and functional material changes Low economies of scale Too much self selection potential for disappointing outcomes

4 Cosmeceuticals Skin needs can change daily: Environment Hormonal fluctuations Travel/lifestyle

5 ReMede by CNP (remedebycnp.com)

6 Base example: 0.5grams per application

7 Base requirements: Stabilised with electrolyte resistant polymer with aesthetically pleasing sensation Emulsifier non-ionic high HLB with no soaping effect Broad ph compatibility of all ingredients Light skin feel; emulsifier also boost skin hydration up to 8 hours Lipid choice is stable, non-comedogenic, non-oxidising

8 Actives Actives added at 2 5%w/w of formulation 0.5g base = grams active to be added Dropper dispensing typically 0.03grams check dropper & SG CAREFUL drops in ml; product in %w/w!!! Active concentrate = active + suitable solvent Glycerine/glycol if water soluble Polysorbate 20 if issues dispersing Light, inert lipid if oil soluble

9 Active %w/w 2%w/w Example: Oily Skin = Miniporyl (Lucas Meyer) 3%w/w Example: Mature skin = Liftonin Xpert (Rahn AG) 5%w/w Example: Hydrating = Hydrintense (Soliance) %w/w Active in Concentrate 33%w/w 33%w/w Miniporyl 50%w/w 50%w/w Liftonin Xpert 83.3%w/w 83.3%w/w Hydrintense %w/w Solvent In Concentrate 67%w/w 67%w/w Polysorbate 20 50%w/w 50%w/w Glycerin 16.7%w/w 16.7%w/w Propanediol

10 Active requirements: Preserve, or formulate to not need preservative Vial with dropper must dispense accordingly 30 days x 2 applications/day = 1.8grams 60 days x 2 applications/day = 3.6grams MUST: Be easily miscible with active concentrate solvent AND base No significant odour or colour as concentrate Stable homogenous dispersion Suit drop dispensing Easy dispensing through to end of vial Compatible with base: ph and charge Compatible with other active concentrates

11 Colour Change to suit fashion, mood, occasion MaiTube: youtu.be utu.be

12

13 MAC Lipmix

14 Smoochstudio.com

15 Future ideas: Gloss bases + colour concentrates + sparkle concentrates Liquid foundations dial up dispensers to alter colour Powder foundations light to dark in one compact Eyeshadow pallets + colour concentrates + sparkle concentrates

16 Aroma Nothing conveys mood or occasion like aroma! Base aroma to suit target market more subtle Aroma concentrates to manipulate aroma story Oriental aromas with a hint of spice Light, subtle floral aroma Stronger floral aromas with musk or woody notes Fruity notes with a touch of green

17 Aroma CAUTION! Must work with fragrance house: Careful use of dispensers on concentrates + base safety issues Blending the wrong fragrance notes can be disaster! Careful blending to avoid off notes developing

18 Questions? Comments? LEADERS in DISTANCE and ON-LINE training Certificate and Diploma level We bring the training to YOU Flexible study at your home or work