.----,-,-, ,-,--,------'8tJ. First Year Clothing f. i I. i 11 I. ~ 4-H Club I

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1 , tJ Bulletn No. 186 September, 1940 ~ 4-H Club 1 Frst Year Clothng f f f 11 f f " Montana Extenson Servce n Agrculture and Home Economcs, ", J. C. Taylor drector. Montana State Oollege and Unted States, Department of Agrculture cooperatng. Dstrbuted n furtherance ".----,-,-, ,-,--,------'8tJ of the Acts of Congress, May 8 and June SO M f f!11

2 ,l-h CLOTHNG CLUB PROGRAM Mnmum Constructon Requrements Frst Year Sec()nd Year Thrd Year Fourth Year Ffth Year Assemble a sewng kt Pot holder or ktchen apron Learn to darn stockngs Smple cotton dress School dress of washable materal Slp Other undergarment or sleepng garment Hemmed patch Skrt and blouse or Best dress and one undergarment Ensemble of three artcles for home, school, sp ort, street or socal wear Ensemble of three artcles for home, school, sport, street or socal wear Other phases studed n the fve years of Clothng Personal appearance Shoes and hose for health Care of clothng Materal selecton Desgn and color Patterns and alteraton Selecton of accessores Dressng for the occason Clothng nventory Plannng wardrobe for year Clothng accounts Buyng Talorng and fnshng methods Pressng Personalty study Clothng judgng Clothng demonstratons Record keepng

3 Frst Year 4-B Clothng Membershp Anyone 10 years of age or over, who s nterested n carryng the project to completon, may become a member of a Frst Year Clothng Club. Frst Ye'ar Clothng s planned to ad the grl n: Becomng well dressed. Understandng that attractve clothes are smple, comfortable, neat and sutable for the place they are worn. Puttng nto practce good habts of cleanlness. Takng proper care of clothng. Becomng a good ctzen and leader. Program Phases Club members should study, dscuss or demonstrate the followng topcs: mprovement 'Of personal appearance. Selecton of correct shoes. Selecton and care of hose. Selecton of materals, desgns and colors. Proper care of clothng. Standards for healthful lvng. Judgng the artcles made. Requrements Members, n 'order to complete the project, make the followng artcles: Assemble a sewng box. Pot h<llder or ktchen apron. Stockng darn. Smple cotton dress. Attend club meetngs regularly and partcpate n club actvtes. Keep a record book, wrte a story of club work and submt t to the local leader, who sends them to the County Extens'on Agent. Prepared by Paulne Buntng, Assstant State Club Leader and app1'oved by Martha Hensley, Extenson Clothng Specalst.

4 4 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE Equpment To do good sewng, a club member should secure the rght knd of equpment. Each grl needs a box large enough to hold her equpment, sewng materals and clothng envelope. A sh<le box, large candy box, a marshmallow can, a basket, or somethng smlar may be used. The equpment to go n the sewng box s: (Consult Handbook,* pp. 3 and 4.) Sharp pencl. Package of needles (Sharps or Crewel 5 to 10). Pn cushon and pns. A thmble that fts. Sharp shears long enough to do good cuttng. Tape measure. Whte thread, 50 and 70. The club grl who does good sewng always has clean hands and fnger nals and s careful to wear clean clothes so the sewng wll not be soled. Sewng poston s very mportant. St el'ect and have good lght whch should come over the left shoulder f possble. Become famlar wth the markngs on the tape measure and the proper use of a thmble and other peces of equpment. Thread should,be cut from the spool when the needle s threaded.,thread should never be cut wth the teeth. t saves tme and energy to use a short thread, the average length s from the fnger tp to the shoulder. Materal should,be cut accurately. Usually t s wse to pull a thread to straghten the end before begnnng to cut. n case the corners are not even, pull the materal from opposte corners untl t s straght. Each club member should read and follow the drectons n her club books, as well as the drectons gven by her leaders. n usng the sewng machne, become famlar wth the parts, then learn to treadle evenly. (Ths may be practced before threadng the machne. f an electrc machne s used, learn to control the feed). Next learn to sttch straght. Ths s best done by usng ruled paper wth an old needle and the machne unthreaded. Then learn to wnd the bobbn and thread the machne. Other thngs whch are essental to know about a machne are: How to keep t n order. How to adjust the sttc,h. How to ol and keep t clean. "'The Handbook f'or Montana 4-H Clothng Club grls, whch s suppled to every clothng cl1.l'b leader 'and frst year clothng club members, contans detaled nformaton on clothng constructon, and should be referred to frequently.

5 FRST YEAR 4-H CLOTHNG 5 Care must always be taken: frst, that both threads are on top before startng to sttch; second, allow the feed to take the materal naturally, (do not push or pull the materal) jand thrd, to turn square corners, have the needle down n the cloth, rase the pressure foot, turn the materal, put pressure foot down and contnue to sew. ('See Handbook). Clothes To Make The Sewng Box Select a sutable box and assemble the equpment needed for sewng. These artcles should be kept n 'order. A pn cushon, needle case and an arrangement for holdng spools of thread may be easly made and wll save tme. To make the pn cushon: Cut two 4-nch squares of frm materal. f a plan dark color s used the pns wll show up better. Cut a 2-nch square of cardboard and lay t on one of the cover peces. Place some fllng of har, wool 01' wool clppngs on the cardboard. Lay on the top cover, baste and sttch the two together on the machne, sttchng qute close to the cardboard. Ths pn cu2hon may be pnned to the dress when sewng. To make the needle case: Cut a pece of attractve small patterned prnt 4 by 6 nches for the outsde. Cut one pece of flannel, felt or sheet waddng 3 by 5 nches for paddng. Cut two peces of cardboard 2% by 3 nches for the covers. Cut one pece of plan paper 2% by 4%, nches for lnng. Gay art paper found n Chl'stmas envelopes makes nterestng lnngs, f they harmonze wth the outsde cover. Cut two peces of wool materal for the leaves. Lay the prnt rght sde down on the table, covel' wth the paddng and place a pasteboard cover on ether half, leavng one-half nch space between them. p.aste the edges of the cover over the cardboard and mter corners. (See Handbook, page 20). Cover the nsde wth lnng paper. Sew n tlte woolen leaves of the book whch have been pnked or notched. To hold the thread: Medum weght wre may be bent nto loops and ether fastened to the bottom of the box or pushed through cardboard ftted n the bottom. Nals punched through a pece of thn wood and fastened n the box wll serve the purpose.

6 6 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE Pot Holder Materals should be soft, durable, and not stff. Gngham, percale, musln or smlar materals that are easly laundered; are sutable for the outsde. The colors should harmonze wth the ktchen and mght add a brght, cheel'ful spot to the room. A pece of materal 7x13 nches makes a convenent szed holder. Outng flannel or peces of an old cotton blanket or towel may be used for paddng. F01' the above szed holder use a 6x12 nch pece for paddng, Tape, rngs or peces from old supporters may be used for hangers. Metal rngs are handy, but care must be taken n puttng the holder through the wrnger. To make the pot holder: Turn one-half nch on the sdes 'and ends of outsde materal. Fold across makng a sx-nch square.. Baste around edges and 'baste n a smple desgn. f a tape s used the tape should be folded wth the two edges just meetng, formng a trangle on top. Sttch across top to hold loop n post'od. nsert tape n one corner. Sttch along the edge-very straght and even. Sttch along desgn bastngs. Te th1'eads, remove bastngs. f a l'ng hanger s used, attach frmly wth over and over sttches or the buttonhole sttch _...- -, -----_.._-j -- T-, L ' , Desgns f'or Pot Holders General appearance Clean Well pressed Neat lookng Loop of Tape When the holders are completed, score them by the followng score card, n order to mprove the qualty of work n the next artcle to be made. Materals used 30 Sutable for ts purpose Strong enough to wear well Wash easly. and well Workmanshp 40 Seams, hems and fnshes neat and even and sutable f01' and the materal. Perfect Score...30 the artcle

7 FRST YEAR 4-H CLOTHNG 7 Apron Materals used for aprons are goenerally percale, prnt, gnghams or other cotton materals of good launderng qualtes. Small, smple desgns and lght, becomng colors are most sutable. The amount of materal needed wl depend upon ts wdth and the apron pattern used. Patterns should be smple-easy to launder as well as comfortable to wear. Avod those whch have straps to pull on the neck, slde off of the shoulder, or are uncomfortable when stoopng over. To make the apron: Test pattern for sze and make necessary alteratons. Fold materal carefully wth fold exactly on thread. Lay all peces of the pattern on, pn carefully. Mark all perforatons and notches wth chalk or thread, or notches cut <Jut nstead of n. Cut wth long even strokes followng the lne of the pattern. Haste all seams, ft apron and fnsh seams. The outer edges may be fnshed wth a narrow' hem 011 to 1,4. nch), faced or -bound wth bas tape. f bas tape s used, the color should harmonze wth the materal and a true bas jonng should be made. (See Handbook-page 21). Rckrack or other fnshes maybe used. When the pocket s made, turn edges frst, then the hem, thus avodng raw edges on top of the pocket. Place pocket on apron n correct poston, baste, and sttch as shown n dagram. f straps are used, fold them nto the hem of the apron and 'baste. Then sttch them when sttchng hem. Fasten securely and neatly. After the apron has been fnshed, judge ts qualty by the score lsted below:,..,. ' r \ \\,,,' "... _-~' ' Apron Pocket..~, Materal used 30 Durablty Sutablty to purpose Launderng qualtes W'orkmanshp 30 Choce and neatness of seams, hems and fnshes Perfecton of sttchng Desgn and color Sutablty to use Orgnalty and ndvdualty Color suted to ndvdual and use General attractveness 15 Cleanlness Pressng

8 8 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE Darnng' Select a pal' of stockngs wth a small hole caused by actual weal'. t s a good habt to darn holes when they frst appeal' for they are then small and easy to darn. Secure darnng cotton that matches the stockngs, both n color and weght. A crewel 01' long eyed needle s best-one just heavy enough to carry the thread. A darnel' may be used. To make the darn: Turn the stockng rght sde out. stockng over t. Place darnel' nsde and smooth Trm off ragged edges wth scssors. Put n a bastng sttch wth colored thread n the form of a damond shape as a gude lne for your work. (See page 38 n Handbook for Montana Clothng Club Grls). The damond shape darn s recommended because the stran of the darn does not come on anyone thread of the hose. Wth small runnng sttches fll n the worn area. Work for smooth, close, even weavng, makng the sttches n lne wth the threads of the stockng. The darn should be smooth and flat, so do not stretch the hole as -the work proceeds or draw the thread too tghtly. When the darn s completed score by the followng score card: nconspcuousness of darn 55 fnl lfj} Thread or yarn matches O'j rm materal f) Uv U o0 0 (n) Weavng even f))uudo~o~o:o~uta\ Edges smooth on both sdes rm Uv ~ U(n) U! 0 0 o-o~u "" Onoo Weak places all strengthened tsj000<:>o "' Durablhty "'000 Woven part same thckness ~o<> Do 00 as t e stockng Cocoo ';;'11: m:;-oo 0 <> 0 0 Q@J App~~::ce 15 ~~~ h 00<>0 DOO Well pressed ~ Damond Shaped Darn

9 FRST YEAR 4-H CLOTHNG 9 Cotton Dress Materals sutalble for a cotton wash dress are lght fgured percale, prnt, gngham or hroadcloth. A soft, frmly woven materal that wll not shrnk or fade s hest. A hecomng color should he selected. S,utahle colors w1l make a grl's skn appear more clear and ntensfy the color of her har and eyes. Plump, short grls should avod plads and large fgured materals as they appear to ncrease her sze. The pattern should he smple and sutahle for a cotton dress wth drop shoulder or easly set-n sleeves. The desgn {)f the 'dress should be becomng to the one for wholm: t s made. The tall thn grl should avod a straght lne dress. The short plump grl wll want a dress that gves a 'feelng of heght and slenderness. She should avod crcular desgns. Fullness may be added by pleats; the plump grl should not use gathers. Neck lnes are mportant. One should tryon several, then chose the most becomng. V and oval shaped neck lnes are,becomng to most faces. The g'rl who s nether tall and thn nor short and plump, wll have no trouble n selectng a pattern. To make the cotton dress: (Leaders: see page 4 n Farmers Bulletn 1520-"Fttng Dresses and Blouses"). Test the pattern -hy pnnng the parts together. Alter f necessary. Study the nstructon sheet. Place all of the pattern on the materal, makng sure that the fold of the materal s on a thread. Pn pattern carefully to materal. Mark notches, as n apron. Cut around pattern wth long even strokes. Baste the shoulder seams, easng the back on to the front. Baste the sde seams. Try the dress on and make any changes that are necessary A plan seam may be used for the shoulder and a French or plan seam for the sde, dependng upon materal and pattern (See Handbook). f a plan seam s used, overcastng 'or edge sttchng may be necessary on ravelly materal. Fnsh necklne and sleev-es wth bas, ftted facng or other fnsh 'approprate for a wash dress. Press seams and mark the hem. (See Handbook, page 34). The hem s nearly always put n by hand. Turn edge 1,4 nch. Sttch by machne, turn the hem the desred wdth and hem by hand. After the dress has been fnshed score t accordng to the score card used for the apron.

10 10 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE The Well Dressed ~Grl The well dressed grl s the well groomed grl. Such a grl wll: Wear clothng that s smple and clean, sutable for the occason, becomng to her type, comfortable and wthn her means. Be clean about her person, have clean, well brushed har and wellkept fnger nals. Have good posture. Have a happy, pleasant personalty, whch s a result of good health and atttude. Personal cleanlness adds more to the charm and attractveness of a grl than any other factor. Baths should be taken frequently-once a day f possble, or at least twee a week. All clothes must be clean and fresh. Change undergarments often enough so that there s no perspraton or body odors from them. Any outer garment whch shows marks of perspraton should be washed or cleaned before wearng agan. Hang clothng on the lne frequently for arng. Stockngs should be changed daly-t lengthens ther lfe and tends to make the ndvdual more comfortable. n case the feet perspre, stockngs should be changed often and washed mmedately, as perspraton rots fber. Careful groomng ncludes the care 'of the skn, har, nals and teeth. Natural beauty can come only from wthn by personal hygene, resultng n cheerness, good color, clear skn, and healthy teeth and har. A g00d, clear, healthy skn s not just "skn deep." t s the result of the knd of food eaten, exercse, sleep, water drunk, and care gven the skn. To keep the skn clean, wash t wth mld soap and warm water and follow wth a dash of cold water. Warm water opens the pores and cold water closes them. f cosmetcs are used or the skn s very dry,.cold cream may be rubbed n, workng upward. Remove the cold cream wth a cloth or cleansng tssue.. Pmples are usually due ether to lack of cleanlness, to eatng mproper foods or to poor elmnaton. Health and beauty on the outsde result from health on the nsde. The nsde of the body must be washed as well as the outsde; by drnkng several glasses of water the elmnaton of waste materal wll be aded. Suffcent sleep s necessary to have a good skn. Ten or 11 hours, wth a good supply 'of fresh ar, for a growng grl s necessary for a clean healthy complexon. Actve exercse n the fresh ar each day s very mportant. Out-door actvtes stmulate crculaton and help to make the skn rosy and clear. Har should be soft and glossy. Oly, lfeless lookng har detracts from one's appearance. Too many people expect the har to take care of tself, and consequently, neglect brngs about a po@r condton. General health affects the har. Lack of sleep, nternal dsorders, worry and faulty det wll make the har very unattractve. A few general rules to follow are:

11 FRST YEAR 4-H CLOTHNG 11 Brush the har thoroughly each nght wth a stff brush ths stmulates cu.'culaton and removes drt or dust. Combs and brushes'should be kept very clean. Frequent and regular massages gve lfe to the har.. Wash. the ~ar every two \'~e~ks ~r as. often a~ t becomes drty. A shampoo S easer and more effcent f mld soap S melted n hot water before usng. Rnse th~har several tmes-untl no trace of soap s seen n the water. The last rmse water should be cold so as to close the pores lnd stmulate crculaton. Everyone wants beautful hands. Work may be done and stll have well-kept hands. When dryng the hands push the cutcle back wth the towel. A lttle hand loton appled after thoroughly dryng keeps the hands soft and smooth. n carng for the nals l'emember to fle them the shape of the fnger. Do not,bte the nals as the shape of the fnger s spoled, and t s unsg'htly as well as unsantary. The nals should be brushed well and cleaned often wth a dull, soft nstrument, such as an orange-wood stck. The cutcle should never 'be cut; f" vaselne or olve ol s put on regularly t wll soften the cutcle and brttle nals and prevent hang-nals. Fnger nals may be polshed wth a buffer or on the palm of the hand. Good lookng, clean teeth are an asset to a perso1's looks. f the teeth are not n condton to grnd the food thoroughly the stomach wll become over-worked. When teeth are drty the food rubs off some of the drt and carres t 'On nto the body. Decayed teeth may cause headaches, abscesses, or other dsturbances. Therefore t s most mportant to keep the teeth n good condton. To keep teeth n good condton brush daly, vst a dentst once or twce a year, and eat bone-buldng foods such as mlk, fruts and vegetables. Posture 'means the carrage of the body n standng, walkng, sttng. and lyng. A grl may wear.attractve clothng but \mless she carres herself well she wll never look as well dressed as though she were erect and graceful. Posture affects health and effcency, t shows mental atttude and a state of health. Ablty and energy are judged by the posture of ndvduals. A person should stand as tall as possble wth head up, chn, shoulders squared evenly, chest out, abdomen n, knees straght, arms hangng naturally and feet ponted straght ahead, not toed out. Learn to stand on two fce't. COl'rect posture not only makes an mpresson on other people but keeps the organs of the body n correct poston. Walk wth an easy, graceful swng. Strdng, trppng along, shufflng, 01' amblng are all very ungraceful ways of gettng around. To be attractve, walk wth ease and grace.. Snce people spend one-thrd of ther tme n bed, sleepng posture has a great nfluence on the posture durng the day tme. Huge pllows should not be used nor should a saggng bed. Thnk rght. t s necessary to have a clean strong mnd as well as a clean strong body. t mght be sad that the body s the house n whch an ndvdual lves; therefore, care must be taken to keep t clean and santary, thnkng clean, happy thoughts. A cheerful, pleasant atttude. s the best qualty any grl can possess and the one whch makes her attractve to other people.

12 12 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE Shoes And Hose For The Well Dressed Grl The selecton of becomng and approprate shoes and stockngs are as much a part of a 4-H 'Club grl's program as the makng of an attractve dress. They should correspond to her general costume. The type of stockng worn should be n harmony wth the costume. Wth her scho'ol clothes a grl may wear lsle, cotton, slk or rayon stockngs of sutable weght. For her dress-up clothes a good grade of slk or rayon hose s sutable. Some grls have the dea that very sheer hose are so much "fun" to wear, but the more approprate ones are cotton, lsle, heavy slk and rayon. f carefully selected they are better lookng than the very sheer ones. Good judgment s not shown when a grl wears a heavy wnter coat and thn, sleezy stockngs on a cold wnter's day. Stockngs should harmonze n color as nearly as possble wth the garments as well as the shoes wth whch they are worn. The sze of the stockng s very mportant. Select them wth care.,they should be long enough to permt freedom of the toes, yet not so long that they wrnkle. f holes appear too quckly n the toes, t may ndcate that the stockngs are too short. Short stockngs sometmes cause bunons and crooked toes. f stockngs are well cared for they wll wear longer. them: Wash new stockngs before they are worn. Wash them every tme after they are worn. Mend thn and worn places as soon as they appear.. Sew up runners mmedately. Keep nsde of shoes and supporter fasteners smooth. n carng fol' n puttng on stockng's,be careful not to cause runs. Fold down and put toes n snugly frst, then draw on the heel and then on up. After washng see f they need mendng. f the stockngs are ready to wear, roll them up neatly and plt them away. Shoes that are best to wear for comfort and correct development of the foot are desgned so that the nner edge of the sole s straght. When ths edge s curved t crowds the toes. Wear a s'ole whch s flat or slghtly rounded up n the mddle' to hold up the arch. A sole whch rounds down under the ball of the foot and bends up at the sde (a concave sde) permts the front arch to drop. Shoes should not have too flexble or too thn sales. Most people walk on hard pavements so t s necessary to cushon the feet aganst the shock of each step. Ths s why 'a moderately heavy sole s preferable to a lght one. S,hoes should ;be long enough and wde enough for the toes to le straght,'and slghtly separated. They sl1o.uld be roomy over the toes, and ft snugly around the heel and nstep.

13 FRST YEAR 4-H CLOTHNG 13 Shoes should have a substantal heel, that can properly carry the weght. Hgh heels are sometmes responsble for poor posture, sore feet, achng backs and touchy teanpers. magne what would happen to a post a foot square and sx feet hgh f t were rased two and a half nches from the ground at one sde. Hgh heels cause the muscles at the,back of the leg to grow short from lack of use. When one attempts to wear low heeled sho s, there s a tremendous stran at the heel cord. Hgh heels tend to enlarge the calf of the leg and every grl aspres to have slender, shapely legs. Moderately low heels wll help her. K:eep heels n go'od repar, straght and bult up. Run down heels ndcate slovenlness. How can foot dffcultes be corrected? Wear shoes that follow the lne of the foot. The materal of whch the shoes are made should be comfortable on the foot. Learn to walk wth the toes straght ahead. f the feet are badly straned or weakened t s best to consult your doctor. Rest, massage and proper exercse wll help. Care of the Clothng One of the ams of every club g'rl s "to be well dressed" wth as lttle expendture of money as possble. She cannot look well unless she keeps her clothes n good condton. A few clothes well cared for are better than many poorly kept. The one thng everyone can be, whether rch or poor, s clean and neat. The grl should learn to make good use of dress and coat hangers, shoetrees, soap and water, a brush, a few smple cleanng fluds and an ron. She wll look better, feel better, and save fnancally. Here are a few "do's" every grl should follow untl they become habtual: Hang coats and dresses on hangers when they are not beng worn. Put hats away n a box or drawer. Use shoe-trees n shoes. Brush clothng-wth the nap-to remove the dust. Care for stockngs as prevously studed. Wash underwear frequently and carefully. Remove stans from clothes as soon as they appear. Ar clothng frequently. Keep hooks, eyes, snaps, and buttons sewed on. Keep wool clothes, when rrot n use, n moth-proof bags Wear overshoes or rubbers when necessary to protect health and shoes.

14 14 MONTANA EXTENSON SERVCE Press clothes carefully. Wrnkles have no place n the well dressed grl's wardrobe. Learn to press fabl'cs correctly (See Handbook, page 8). Care should be taken not to use to'o hot an ron on cottons as they wll scorch. Materals should be dampened enough so they wll press smooth. n launderng fne cottons and lnens-use only pure soap and enough for a lastng, bubbly suds. Wash n warm suds (for colored materals-do not soak, and use almost cool temperatures). Do not rub or twst fabrcs-squeeze suds repeatedly through the fabrc. Rnse thoroughly, twce n warm and once n cool water. Dry quckly. f garments are delcate, roll tghtly n clean towel. To shrnk cottons: (Consult Handbook-page 8). Exhbts Exhbts provde opportunty for comparng wth the work done by others n order that all members may recognze standards and have help n mprovng ther own work. Exhbts show to the people of the communty and state what club members are accomplshng. Standards are ndcated by placng all artcles n a class nto three or four groups: blue rbbon standard should b~ the goal of all club members. Exhbts wll be more attractve f all artcles are clean and well laundered. All artcles should be labeled wth name and address typewrtten or neatly prnted ana pece of stff cloth or cotton tape (2 nches,by 1 nch) and sewed securely to the artcle. Place label on the wrong sde of an artcle or the back lf center neck-lne. Style Revues Frst Year Club grls may wear ther allrons and dresses n the communty and county style revues. These revues, as well as the other club actvtes help :he grls to practce the habts of health and beauty, understand that the well-dressed grl wears clothng that s smple, comfortable, sutable and neat and gan a knowledge and apprecaton of standards. ' "Smplcty s not planness, stupdty, or poverty, but s the foundaton of all that s beautful."