Revised Edition: 2016 ISBN All rights reserved.

Transcription

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2 Revised Edition: 2016 ISBN All rights reserved. Published by: White Word Publications 48 West 48 Street, Suite 1116, New York, NY 10036, United States

3 Table of Contents Chapter 1 - Denim Chapter 2 - Jeans Chapter 3 - Low-Rise Jeans Chapter 4 - Jean Skirt & Phat Pants Chapter 5 - Slim-Fit Pants & Wide Leg Jeans Chapter 6 - Denim Brands Chapter 7 - Trousers Chapter 8 - Bermuda Shorts & Blood Stripe Chapter 9 - Parachute Pants & Snowboarding Pants Chapter 10 - Sweatpants & Tap Pants Chapter 11 - Women Wearing Pants

4 Chapter 1 Denim Denim as used for blue jeans, with a copper rivet to strengthen the pocket.

5 A high-resolution image of black denim. Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp threads. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. Denim has been in American usage since the late 18th century. The word comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the André family. Originally called serge de Nîmes, the name was soon shortened to denim. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans", though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), where the first denim trousers were made.

6 Dry denim Dry denim can be identified by its lack of a wash, or "fade". It typically starts out as the dark blue color pictured here. Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Over time, denim will generally fade, which is often considered desirable. During the process of wear, it is typical to see fading on areas that generally receive the most stress, which includes the upper thighs (whiskers), the ankles (stacks) and behind the knees (honey combs). After being crafted into an article of clothing, most denim is washed to make it softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner

7 washes it. In addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn look. Much of the appeal of factory distressed denim is that it looks similar to dry denim that has, with time, faded. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of his or her daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months, though it is not a necessity for fading. Often, enthusiasts will just hang their unwashed denim to help get rid of the smell. An overnight stay in a freezer is also considered to kill off the smell unwashed denim accumulates. Contrary to popular belief, the effects of this long period without washing are actually minimal as far as bacteria and overall hygiene go. Selvedge denim Selvedge on a pair of jeans Selvedge denim (alternative spelling: selvage denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the Selvedge edges will be located along the out-seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn.

8 The word "selvedge" comes from the phrase "self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. As applied to denim, it means that which is made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this self-edge or selvedge. Selvedge is desirable because the edge cannot fray like denim made on a projectile loom that has separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. This advantage is only realized on one edge of the fabric, however, as the fabric has to be cut to shape and anywhere it is cut the self edge is lost. Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvedge edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvedge edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics. Most selvedge jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in some denim labels. Though they are supposed to have the same chemical makeup, there are more impurities in the natural indigo dye. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue. In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950s, American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60-inches or wider). Synthetic dying techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist. Selvedge denim is one of the more expensive denims because of its durability, and selfedge that will never fray. Stretch denim Stretch denim usually incorporates an elastic component (such as elastane) into the fabric to allow a degree of give in garments. Only a small percentage is required within the fabric (approx 3%) to allow a significant stretch capacity of around 15%. Color denim Denim fabric dyeing is divided into two categories; indigo dyeing and sulphur dyeing. Indigo dyeing produces traditional blue colors or shades similar to blue colors. Sulfur dyeing (also called color denim) is used to create specialty black colors and other colors like pink, grey, rust, mustard, green, and red.

9 Uses Denim clothing Besides trousers, denim can also be made into: Bags & purses Capri pants Denim skirts Dresses Hats Jackets Overalls Shirts Booties & shoes Shorts Cut offs Daisy Dukes Crafted items Denim jewelry Silver jewelry that incorporates accents of denim. Furniture Sofa covers Bean bag chairs Director-style chairs Lampshades Hassocks Eco-friendly home insulation Bonded Logic UltraTouch is a home insulation, intended to replace fiberglass, made from the remnants of fabric left over after making blue jeans. Recycled jeans can be used as insulation material (sometimes called Cotton Batt insulation) in the construction of houses. Due to its low relative synthetic chemical composition and because it is made of recycled materials, it is sometimes used in green building construction. Blue Jean insulation has an R- Value per inch of 3.7 making it a comparable insulator to typical fiberglass. Jeans vehicles Between 1973 and 1975 Volkswagen produced the Jeans Beetle which had all-denim trim. They also repeated this concept in some later models. AMC offered a Levi's trim

10 package for its Gremlin and Pacer models, which was actually spun nylon made to imitate denim. Jeep has also offered Levi's trim packages.

11 Chapter 2 Jeans Denim jeans Jeans are trouser made from cool denim. Some of the earliest American blue jeans were made by Jacob Davis, Calvin Rogers, and Levi Strauss in Starting in the 1950s, jeans, originally designed for working people, became popular among teenagers. Historic brands include Levi's, Lee, and Wrangler. Jeans come in various fits, including skinny, tapered, straight, boot cut, Mommy-cut, maternity, and flare. Jeans are now a very popular form of casual dress around the world, and have been so for decades. They come in many styles and colors; however, "blue jeans" are particularly identified with American culture, especially the American Old West.

12 History The word "jeans" comes from the French phrase bleu de Gênes, literally the blue of Genoa. Jeans fabric, or denim, originated independently in two places: The French town of Nîmes, from which 'denim' (de Nîmes) gets its name. From Dongari Killa in India, from which the word 'dungarees' came. Denim trousers for sailors Denim trousers were made in Chieri, a town near Turin in Italy, during the Renaissance and were popularized in the 19th century. These trousers were sold through the harbor of Genoa, which was the capital of the independent Republic of Genoa which was long an important naval and trading power. The Genoese Navy required all-purpose trousers for its sailors that could be worn while swabbing the deck and the denim material met this need. These trousers were laundered by dragging them in nets behind the ship, and the sea water and sun would gradually bleach them to white. The same type of uniform consisting of jeans and chambray tops was issued as prison Jeans (at the time known as "dungarees"), along with light-blue stenciled "cambric" shirts, became part of the official working uniform of the United States Navy in the first part of the 20th Century. A working uniform was selected to protect traditional uniforms from becoming soiled or torn in the ship's rugged working environment, leaving them for ceremonial occasions. They were first issued in 1901, and were originally straight-legged but by the mid-20th century the trousers became Boot-cut style to permit ventilation in the ship's hotter working environments and to ensure sailors could shed their dungarees if they fell overboard or had to abandon ship. uniforms in some correctional facilities mainly because of the durability and lowmaintenance of denim which was deemed suitable for the rugged manual labor carried out by inmates. A popular example of the use of denim as prison wear can be seen in the film Cool Hand Luke. Riveted jeans Dry goods merchant Levi Strauss was selling blue jeans under the "Levi's" brand to the mining communities of California in the 1850s. One of Strauss' customers was Jacob Davis, a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co. wholesale house. After one of Davis' customers kept buying cloth to reinforce torn pants, he had an idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the top of the button fly. Davis did not have the required money to purchase a patent, so he wrote to Strauss suggesting that they both go into business together. After Strauss accepted Davis's offer, the two men received U.S. Patent 139,121, for an "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings," on May 20, 1873.

13 The cost of jeans In 1885, jeans could be bought in the US for $1.50 (approximately $37 today). Today, an equivalent pair of jeans can be purchased for around $30 to $50, but more stylish pairs can cost much more. On the other hand, many brands of jeans are currently available for much less. In the United States, there is a robust resale market for used jeans, and the prices obtained for these pre-owned jeans vary tremendously. As the price of cotton rises, the cost of blue jeans is expected to rise, as well. Americans spent more than $14 billion on jeans in 2004 and $15 billion in Evolution of the garment Copper rivets for reinforcing pockets are a characteristic feature of blue jeans.

14 The blue denim fabric of jeans Initially, jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by workers, especially in the factories during World War II. During this period, men's jeans had the zipper down the front, whereas women's jeans had the zipper down the right side. By the 1960s, both men's and women's jeans had the zipper down the front. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of bib overalls without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss denominated its flagship product "waist overalls" rather than "jeans". After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans by teenagers and youth and/or young adults became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. Because of this, they were sometimes banned in theaters, restaurants and schools. Nowadays, however, jeans are worn to many types of venues and events, even some events that ostensibly require formal attire. During the sixties the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the seventies it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear. In the 1970s the denim industry introduced the Stone-Washing technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co.". Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method, which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where

15 jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average North American owning seven pairs. Currently in Britain, jeans may be seen worn by people of both genders and all ages. Manufacturing processes Dyeing Jeans and fashion Traditionally, jeans are dyed to a blue color using indigo dye. Some other colors that can be achieved are pink, blue, yellow, black, and white. These colors are achieved by coloring other fabrics to resemble jeans. Approximately 20 million tons of indigo are

16 produced annually for this purpose, though only a few grams of the dye are required for each pair of these trousers. For more information on dyeing, refer to denim and the discussion there of using pigment dyes. Pre-shrinking of jeans In the 1970s Hal Burgess first marketed "pre-washed" jeans. He was a salesman for his father, who owned a large jean manufacturing company in Cartersville, Georgia. While on a sales trip, there was a flood in the hotel room where Burgess was storing jeans. He asked the hotel owner if he could rent out the pool to wash the flooded jeans. The jeans shrunk but Hal decided to market them as 'pre-washed' jeans and sold them two sizes smaller than they were initially labeled. This was the first time 'pre-shrunk' jeans were marketed. Used look created by sandblasting Many consumers in Western societies are willing to pay extra for jeans that have the appearance of being used. To give the fabrics the right worn look sandblasting is used. Sandblasting has the risk of causing silicosis to the workers, and in Turkey, more than 5,000 workers in the textile industry have been stricken with this disease, and 46 people are known to have died. Sweden's Fair Trade Center conducted a survey among 17 textile companies that showed very few were aware of the dangers caused by sandblasting jeans manually. Several companies said they would abolish this technique from their own production. Other languages In Spain they are known as vaqueros ("cowboys") or tejanos ("Texans"), in Puerto Rican Spanish as mahones, in Danish cowboybukser meaning "cowboy pants" and in Chinese niuzaiku (SC: 牛仔裤, TC: 牛仔褲 ), literally, "cowboy pants" (trousers), indicating their association with the American West, cowboy culture, and outdoors work. Similarly, the Hungarian name for jeans is "farmer" (short for "farmernadrág", meaning "farmer's trousers"). In Dutch, jeans are often known as 'spijkerbroek' meaning "nail trousers", referring to the copper studs on riveted jeans.

17 Chapter 3 Low-Rise Jeans Low-rise jeans Low-rise jeans, worn by both men and women, are jeans intended to sit low on, or below, the hips. They are also called lowcut jeans, hipsters, hip-huggers and lowriders. Usually they sit at least 8 centimetres (3 inches) lower than the belly button. Low-rise jeans have existed since the 1960s, but regained popularity in the 1990s and 2000s. Measurements The "rise" of any jeans is determined by the distance between the crotch and the waist and is usually around 30 cm (12 inches) on regular pants. In comparison, the average measurement of low-rise jeans is roughly 20 cm (8 inches), with some as little as 7-10 cm (3-4 inches). Several jeans brands also reflect the rise on the zipper, by creating pants

18 with zippers far shorter than regular pants, usually between 5 and 7 cm (2-3 inches), and some manufacturers, such as Dorinha Jeans Wear, even provide 2.5 cm (1 inch) zippers. The latter can also be classified as "ultra low-rise jeans", and the small zipper no longer has its traditional function, but rather becomes a display of fashion: an additional marking of the jeans' low-rise nature. History 1960s and 1970s hip-huggers Hip-huggers, the precursor to low-rise jeans, rose to popularity during the late 1960s, with the ascendance of the hippie counterculture and psychedelic music. Often worn with light-cotton, paisley-printed tops or nehru-collared jackets, bell-bottomed hip-huggers were popularized by rock icons such as Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison, and Robert Plant. Later, hip-huggers became a staple of popular culture and were incorporated into the disco scene of the 1970s. 1990s and 2000s revival During the early 1980s, however, waistlines moved higher as wide, flared, bell-bottoms gradually gave way to designer straight-legged jeans. Throughout the 1980s and into the early 1990s, as more women entered the corporate workforce, the high waist design remained predominant, with commercial designers such as Gloria Vanderbilt and Calvin Klein at the forefront. The revival of low-rise jeans can be credited to British designer Alexander McQueen, who first showed his famous low-rise "bumster" trousers in his 1996 "Dante" collection show, with Kate Moss and others modelling the bumsters. One commentator observed: "The bumster for me is what defined McQueen. For me it was the look that put him on the map because it was controversial. Those little bumsters were in his first shows. It was like 20 people in England were wearing them back then." Following McQueen's lead, the fashion of low-rise jeans gradually spread, though not many women dared go as low as McQueen's signature buttock-bearing style. In America the fashion emerged five years later in 2001, particularly among youth, and here Britney Spears is most credited with popularising the fashion after she started wearing it in Although its popularity also increased among women and men of other ages, the major focus of advertising is still directed at teenage girls and boys, with typical teen stores selling low-rise jeans in different styles and colors. Most American teenage and twenty-something-oriented retail stores that carry jeans (e.g., Guess, American Eagle, Abercrombie & Fitch, Stitches) only or mostly carry low-rise jeans. Currently, low-rise jeans are manufactured in many styles, and though tight jeans are usually the most popular, they also exist in loose, baggy, flare and destroyed style. Due to the popularity of low-rise jeans, manufacturers have also begun making low-rise styles of other kinds of pants. In the stores today, there is an immense variety available. Indeed,

19 low-slung jeans, especially tight black styles, have become increasingly popular in the more recent hipster scene. Low-rise jeans may be worn to display more skin at the waist, torso, and hips. Accordingly, they are sometimes worn in combination with shorter crop tops, giving a glimpse of skin between the jeans and the top, or (more commonly in the summer or in warmer countries) showing their entire midriff including the belly button. Low-rise jeans may also partially reveal the buttocks when the wearer sits down or bends over. In many cases, cleavage becomes visible. When a thong is exposed above a pair of low-rise jeans on the back, it is commonly referred to as a whale tail, due to its somewhat similar shape. When boxer shorts become visible this is known as "sagging". Because underwear was no longer always hidden, more men and women choose their underwear to function with their low-rise jeans. In the United States, low-rise jeans began to fall out of favor in 2008 and have become less common since, though they still remain somewhat popular. Legal matters Legislator Derrick Shepherd of the state of Louisiana in the USA made an attempt in 2004 to outlaw the fashion of low-rise jeans, particularly to bring a halt to the display of underwear under the pants, claiming it to be disrespectful and obscene. People spotted with their "whale tail" or "boxers showing" would be fined $500. The bill, HB 1703, was rejected by the Louisiana House of Representatives. A similar bill was attempted in Hampton Roads, Virginia, USA, charging a $50 fine for anyone deliberately showing their underwear. The bill was rejected in February School dress codes sometimes also banned pants of too low a rise, or visible underwear. Medical concerns In the Canadian Medical Association Journal 2003, Dr. Malvinder S. Parmar pointed out that wearing tight low-rise jeans may put pressure on a sensory nerve, the lateral cutaneous nerve of thigh, which can cause pain and paresthesia in the nerve's area of distribution. This is known as Meralgia paresthetica and is associated with a tingling or a burning sensation on the lateral aspect of the thigh. The condition was diagnosed in three mildly obese women who had worn low-rise jeans for 6 8 months. The condition resolved itself after they avoided wearing low-rise jeans for 4 6 weeks.

20 Helpful images Diagram of segmental distribution of the lateral cutaneous nerve (shaded) and other nerves of the right leg. Front view.

21 Cutaneous nerves of the right lower extremity. Front and posterior views.

22 Chapter 4 Jean Skirt & Phat Pants Jean Skirt Singer Natasha Bedingfield wearing a jean miniskirt A denim skirt, commonly known as a "jean skirt," is a skirt made of denim, the same material as blue jeans. Jean skirts come in a variety of styles and lengths to suit different populations and occasions. For example, full-length jean skirts are commonly worn by women whose religious beliefs prohibit them from wearing trousers, including Orthodox Jews, some Muslims, Mennonites, and Pentecostals, among others. Shorter skirts made of denim are commonly worn by teenagers and young adults. Some are modeled after the exact style of jeans, with a front fly, belt loops, and back pockets. Others are constructed more like other types of skirts, with a column of front button, closures on the side or back, or elastic waists. And like jeans, skirts vary in shades of blue, ranging from very pale to very dark, or occasionally in other colors.

23 History Jean skirts were first introduced in mainstream fashion lines in the 1970s, and since then, have grown in popularity. Their popularity, after flagging in the 80s and early 90s, was reinvigorated by Marnie Bjornson in Today, jean skirts are one of the most common type of skirts worn by women in Western fashion. In the sixties, hippies first came up with the idea of recycling old denim pants or jeans into long denim skirts, by opening the inseams, and inserting pieces of triangular denim (or any other fabric) in the front and, unless a tall slit in back is preferred, also in the back of the opened-up trousers. Styles of jean skirt with fringes, lace, leather fringes, or decorated with embroidery, patchwork, rhinestones, The classic style of a jean skirt resembles a common pair of jeans, with a front fly, a fitted waist, belt loops, and pockets. There have been a large number of other styles constructed over time to resemble other types of skirts. Types of skirts more common in denim than in other fabrics include skirts with a variety of panels, going beyond the four panels most common with other fabrics. These include chevron, diagonal, diamond, horizontal, multiple vertical panels, and combinations of the above. Denim skirts not made from pants are often designed as though they were made from pants, i.e. with front and back triangular denim panels. To tone down the rough and somewhat masculine look of the denim fabric, denim skirts are sometimes designed with alternating cloth panels, which can be diagonal, triangular, vertical, or there can be cloth panel trim at the bottom of the skirt. Also, to make the skirt look more feminine, denim skirts are (more often than skirts in other fabrics), trimmed writing, or even painting. Prints are quite rare on jeans skirts. Deviating from the front fly and button closure is common though, with back or side zippers or a column of front buttons being common. One style jeans skirts shares with jeans is the ripped or destroyed look, which is more common with short denim skirts than with long ones. Another style shared with jeans and jeans cutoffs, but maybe even more popular in jeans skirts, is the rough hem. This is achieved by not hemming the skirt (or undoing or cutting off the existing hem) and washing the skirt by machine several times. The resulting edge of the skirt will have a frayed or unraveling look, popular with teenagers and young women. The longer unraveled threads are usually cut off for an even fuzzy look, but some teenagers leave them hanging on their shorter skirts.

24 Phat Pants Ravers wearing modern phat pants. The reflective properties of the material are clearly displayed. Phat pants covered in reflective material.

25 Phat pants or phatties are usually made of denim but can be made of any material, and are fitted at the waist, but get wider down the legs all the way to the ground where they enclose the feet due to their width. Phat pants are usually worn by ravers and can be used as a visual identifier. Ravers will often customise their phat pants by covering them with reflective materials of their own design. The pants are worn at rave parties, where the glow of the reflectors illuminates people's legs while they dance. It is usually worn by people who listen to hardcore, hardstyle, and other hard genres of electronic music. History Phat Pants were first produced in Vancouver in 1995 by Laramie. The head designer was Noel Steen. UV Reflective Tape UV Reflective Tape is usually sewn or glued onto phat pants and seems to "glow" as some say when a concentrated amount of light (usually UV rays from the sun or Black light) hits the tape causing to some spectators for the tape to "glow" when it is really only reflecting the light. Many ravers and shufflers who wear phat pants purchase small portable UV lights as they can point it at the phat pants giving them an intense "glow" as seen in some videos on YouTube. Not to be confused with Baggy jeans Sometimes confused with phat pants because of their name, "baggies" are a specific type of cut with wide legs, the same width all the way down the leg. They are closely related to loose fit and are sometimes incorrectly labelled as such. Bell-bottoms Another cut of jeans involving wider legs, distinguished by having a normal fit from the hips to the knees and then widening out from the knees down to the feet. Harem pants Sometimes confused with phat pants, but are actually very different cut. Whilst phat pants usually have a fairly high groin and taper out from the waist, harem pants have a very low sitting groin and very wide hips, whilst tapering in towards the ankles. NYC Tripps Often confused with phat pants because of their wide appearance and chains, but are a very different cut and have an overall different look. Phat pants fit to the waist, consist of only fabric and reflective tape, have only front and back pockets, and taper outwards and the cuffs are typically 100cm wide. Tripps will often have more pockets, chains, a lot of metal, typically are a straight cut down to the feet, and have a considerably smaller cuff than phats. The reflective suspenders will often be misinterpreted as fabric "chains" that tripp pants bear.

26 Chapter 5 Slim-Fit Pants & Wide Leg Jeans Slim-Fit Pants Skinny denim jean capri pants Slim-fit pants or skinny jeans have a snug fit through the legs and end in a small leg opening that can be anywhere from 9" to 20" depending on size. Other names for this style include pegs, drainpipes, stovepipes, cigarette pants, pencil pants, skinny pants or skinnies. Skinny jeans taper completely at the bottom of the leg, whereas drainpipe jeans are skinny but then the lower leg is straight instead of tapering and so they are often slightly baggier at the bottom of the leg than skinny jeans. In some styles, zippers are needed at the bottom of the leg to facilitate pulling them over the feet. Stretch denim, with anywhere from 2% to 4% spandex, may be used to allow jeans to have a super-slim fit. Skinny Jeans come in many different colors as well as styles.

27 History The 1950s Elvis Presley wearing drainpipe jeans. In the 50s the waist was higher than on modern skinny jeans The style of pants originated in the 1950s, with popular stars such as Roy Rogers, Lone Ranger, Cisco Kid, Zorro and Gene Autry, Marilyn Monroe, and Sandra Dee wearing their pants very slim to the ankle. Tapered jeans became most notable with country music stars and with the birth of rock and roll in the 1950s, when Elvis Presley donned slimfitting jeans and shocked the country. Drainpipe jeans and rock 'n' roll were inextricably linked to create the "bad boy" image that remains today. In the early 1960s they were worn by numerous rock bands, including The Beatles and The Rolling Stones.

28 The 1970s In the early 70s glam rock and rockabilly bands reviving the Teddy Boy look popularised drainpipe jeans in contrast to the flared trousers worn by hippies. Red tartan drainpipe jeans (as they were then called) were popular in the punk subculture of the late 1970s, worn by many bands and scene leaders such as The Clash, Ramones and Sex Pistols. The 1980s 80s glam metal band Poison wearing stonewashed drainpipe jeans Skin-tight acid-washed jeans were also very popular in the 1980s with most heavy metal bands, and in particular those in the thrash metal scene, such as Anthrax, Megadeth, Metallica and Slayer. This was the trend for those who did not wear spandex, which was popular with the dominant heavy metal scene at the time. They were often worn with white high-top sneakers or basket-ball shoes like Converse. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, many glam metal bands such as Poison, Mötley Crüe, Kiss, Bon Jovi, and Slaughter, ditched the spandex and wore the form fitted jeans. Tight fitting jeans were also worn by pop stars like Michael Jackson and Freddie Mercury. And is also worn by some rappers such as Lil Wayne. However, with the rise of grunge and hip-hop music in the early 1990s and the post thrash movement, drainpipe jeans quickly went out of fashion in favor of baggy carpenter jeans, as worn by hip-hop/rap acts such as Kris Kross, Another Bad Creation, Snoop Dogg and other rappers.

29 The 2000s Scene kids wearing "skinny jeans" In the mid 2000s, they became favored by "hipsters." By the end of the decade the fashion began to replace the baggy gangster jeans of the 1990s and early 2000s. Among women, skinny jeans are most often worn tucked into boots or scrunched up over the wearer's footwear, and are also often paired with ballerina flats. The fashion spread to teens, children and young men in They are often worn with vans, converse, high tops, basketball or skate shoes. Skinnies have also become stereotypical of the emo, and skaters and scene subcultures.

30 Wide Leg Jeans African American children had to wear secondhand clothes, often handed down from an Wide leg jeans or baggy pants are a style of clothing popularized in the mid-to-late 1990s, especially by men trying to achieve an "alternative" style. For men, the style is also called hip-hop clothing and remains popular with this subculture today. The quintessential brand of 'hip-hop' style wide leg jeans was JNCO, though other youth and ethnic oriented clothing companies manufacture them as well. History Baggy jeans were first worn by West Coast surfers in the 1960s: old Levi Strauss jeans cut down and bleached by the sea air. In the 1970s bell bottom trousers were worn by hippies and disco fans, but modern-day baggy jeans originated in the ghetto, where older sibling or cousin. In the 1980s baggy jeans entered mainstream fashion as the hammer pants and parachute pants worn by rappers to facilitate breakdancing. In the 1990s these jeans became even baggier and were worn by skaters, hardcore punks, ravers and grungers to set themselves apart from the skintight acid wash drainpipe jeans worn by metalheads. In the United Kingdom during the original 90s fad they were known as "baggies". However, this term faded with the original fad and now they are generally known as "wide leg jeans". In the 21st century In the late 2000s pop stars like Kanye West popularised a more refined Indie-inspired look but baggy jeans continue to be worn by the raver, gangsta rap, and Nu-Metal subcultures. Additionally, baggy carpenter jeans continue to be worn by skaters as these

31 are less likely to rip and allow greater freedom of movement than the skinny jeans popular among hipsters and scene kids Dimensions Wide leg jeans and pants are at least 20" in circumference at the hem. Wide leg jeans differ from bell-bottoms in that the entire length of the leg is large in circumference whereas flare or bell-bottom jeans become wider below the knee. Wide leg jeans can be considered to be a variant of baggy jeans, which were also popular in the '90s. Super wide leg jeans have a circumference at the hem of 23" to 26"; whereas, extreme wide leg jeans are greater than 26".

32 Chapter 6 Denim Brands Lee (Jeans) Lee Jeans Industry Clothing Founded 1889 Headquarters Merriam, Kansas, U.S. Employees 400 people Parent VF Corporation Lee is a brand of denim jeans, first produced in 1889 in Salina, Kansas. The company is owned by VF Corporation, the largest apparel company in the world. Its headquarters is currently in Merriam, Kansas, just outside of Kansas City, Missouri. The company states that they are an international retailer and manufacturer of casual wear and work wear and that they have more than 400 employees in the United States. In Australasia, the brand is owned by Pacific Brands since 2007, after it was acquired from Yakka. History The company was formed in 1889 by Henry David Lee as the Lee Mercantile Company at Salina, Kansas producing dungarees and jackets. The growth of Lee was prompted by the introduction of the Union-All work jumpsuit in 1913 and their first overall in Later in the 1920s Lee introduced a zipper fly and continued to expand. Around this time,

33 the first children's overall line was sold. In 1928 H.D. Lee, founder and president of The H.D. Lee Mercantile Company, died of complications following a heart attack. During the 1930s and 1940s the company became the leading manufacturer of work clothes in the US. In 1944, the Lazy "S" became the official Lee back pocket. A flood wiped out Lee's Kansas City distribution center. It ruined the entire stock of merchandise, except the Buddy Lee dolls, which floated. In 1954, Lee expanded into casual wear. During the 1960s the company expanded to 81 countries and in 1969 was acquired by VF Corporation, becoming a brand. Lee aired its first television advertisement, which promoted Lee western wear. In the 1970s Lee shifted its focus from the workwear business and began catering to fashion cycles. Lee created an all-new fit for women under the Ms. Lee label. A youth wear line for boys and girls was introduced. In 1996 started Lee National Denim Day as part of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Working with the Entertainment Industry Foundation, Lee National Denim Day has raised over $75 million to help fund breast cancer research programs. Manufacturing In 1981, 240 factory workers in Greenock, Scotland, staged a sit in in protest against plans to move the factory to Northern Ireland. What was planned as a one night protest continued for 7 months. As of 2005, Lee Jeans have been manufactured by Arvind Mills in a number of small factories in Chamarajanagar, India. 60,000 workers produce 5,000 pairs of jeans a day. Advertising Within the USA, the company spends more than $40 million per year on advertising. In 2009, Olson were appointed as lead interactive agency for the American brand and redesigned their website. Barkley Inc. had previously handled interactive advertising for the brand. Arnold Worldwide continues to provide offline advertising services for the brand. Lee Cooper Lee Cooper Brands Industry Founded Clothing 1908 (as M. Cooper Overalls)

34 Founder(s) Headquarters Morris Cooper London, United Kingdom Lee Cooper Brands is a British clothing company, operating worldwide, that licenses the sale of many Lee Cooper-branded items, including denim jeans. The head office is located in London, United Kingdom. The company originally produced workwear for export, and began to specialise in denim jackets and trousers in the 1930s. History Early Years The brand that eventually became Lee Cooper was established in 1908 by Morris Cooper and a friend, Louis Maister, after they arrived in London from their hometown in Lithuania, having previously spent some time in South Africa. Operating under the name M.Cooper (Overalls) Ltd., from premises on Middlesex Street in London's East End, they began production of workwear, having identified a market for it in South Africa. During the years of the first World War, M.Cooper (Overalls), which by then employed over 600 people, halted production of workwear and began making uniforms, kit bags and rucksacks for the British Army. In 1937, a new factory dedicated to the manufacture of denim was opened in Stratford, with the business reporting a profit of 1,000 by year end. The outbreak of the second World War in 1939 led Morris Cooper to split the business into two: one arm continued making workwear, while the other concentrated on producing military uniforms, battle fatigues and flight overalls. M.Cooper (Overalls) eventually became one of the armed forces' biggest suppliers.

35 Post-War Lee Cooper promotional material Morris Cooper died in 1940 and his son, Harold Cooper, took over the business upon his return from active service in the RAF. He set about modernising the company and building on its wartime success, switching focus to casual wear and denim production, and taking advantage of the introduction of clothes rationing to increase competitiveness. As part of a re-branding strategy, the company was rechristened, with Harold adding a version of his wife's family name, Leigh, to his own to create Lee Cooper. Lee Cooper jeans were adopted by the youth counterculture of the 1950s and 1960s and Harold capitalised on this association by sponsoring a Rolling Stones tour and working with Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. The company caused a degree of moral outrage in 1953 by introducing the zip-front to women's jeans, and commissioned a series of bold publicity campaigns, some of them incorporating fictitious designers such as the Italian 'Alfredo Angelous' in order to appeal to subcultures such as the Mods, who favoured continental style. The late 1970s saw expansion of production, with the company opening factories in Ireland, France and Tunisia, and by the mid 1980s these facilities were producing between 40,000 and 45,000 garments per week. During this time, annual turnover grew to more than 100 million. In 1989, the Cooper family sold their majority stake in the business, and since then Lee Cooper has become a 'lifestyle' brand, operating in more than seventy markets across the world. In 2008, the company celebrated its centenary.

36 Levi Strauss & Co. Levi Strauss & Co Type Industry Private Clothing Founded 1853 Founder(s) Levi Strauss Headquarters San Francisco, California, U.S. Area served Worldwide Robert A. "Bob" Eckert Chairman of Key people the Board John R. Anderson President and CEO Products Jeans Revenue US$ billion (2008) Owner(s) Descendants of Levi Strauss Employees 11,400 (2008) Divisions Levi's, Dockers, Signature by Levi Strauss & Co. Website Levi Strauss Homepage Levi Strauss & Co. (LS&CO) is a privately held clothing company known worldwide for its Levi's brand of denim jeans. It was founded in 1853 when Levi Strauss came from Buttenheim, Franconia, (Kingdom of Bavaria) to San Francisco, California to open a west coast branch of his brothers' New York dry goods business. Although the company began producing denim overalls in the 1870s, modern jeans were not produced until the 1920s. The company briefly experimented (in the 1970s) with employee ownership and a public stock listing, but remains owned and controlled by descendants and relatives of Levi Strauss' four nephews. Organization Levi Strauss & Co. is a worldwide corporation organized into three geographic divisions: Levi Strauss Americas (LSA), based in the San Francisco headquarters; Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and Africa (LSEMA), based in Brussels; and Asia Pacific Division

37 (APD), based in Singapore. The company employs a staff of approximately 10,500 people worldwide, and owns and develops a few brands. Levi's, the main brand, was founded in 1873 in San Francisco, specializing in riveted denim jeans and different lines of casual and street fashion. From the early 1960s through the mid 1970s, Levi Strauss experienced explosive growth in its business as the more casual look of the 1960s and 1970s ushered in the "blue jeans craze" and served as a catalyst for the brand. Levi's, under the leadership of Jay Walter Haas Sr., Peter Haas Sr., Paul Glasco and George P. Simpkins Sr., expanded the firm's clothing line by adding new fashions and models, including stone-washed jeans through the acquisition of Great Western Garment Co. (GWG), a Canadian clothing manufacturer. GWG was responsible for the introduction of the modern "stone washing" technique, still in use by Levi Strauss. Mr. Simpkins is credited with the company's record paced expansion of its manufacturing capacity from fewer than 16 plants to more than 63 plants in the United States from 1964 through Perhaps most impressive, however, was Levi's expansion under Simpkins was accomplished without a single unionized employee as a result of Levi's' and the Haas families' strong stance on human rights and Simpkins' use of "pay for performance" manufacturing at the sewing machine operator level up. As a result, Levi's' plants were perhaps the highest performing, best organized and cleanest textile facilities of their time. Levi's even piped in massive amounts of air conditioning for the comfort of Levi's workers into its press plants, which were known in the industry to be notoriously hot. Europe in Levi Strauss attempted to sell the Dockers division in 2004 to relieve 2004 saw a sharp decline of GWG in the face of global outsourcing, so the company was closed and the Edmonton manufacturing plant shut down. The Dockers brand, launched in 1986 which is sold largely through department store chains, helped the company grow through the mid-1990s, as denim sales began to fade. Dockers were introduced into part of the company's $2 billion outstanding debt. Launched in 2003, Levi Strauss Signature features jeanswear and casualwear. In November 2007, Levi's released a mobile phone in co-operation with ModeLabs. Many of the phone's cosmetic attributes are customisable at the point of purchase. History Jacob Davis was a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth made from hemp from Levi Strauss & Co.'s wholesale house. After one of Davis' customers kept purchasing cloth to reinforce torn pants, he had an idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the base of the button fly. Davis did not have the required money to purchase a patent, so he wrote to Strauss suggesting that they go into business together. After Levi accepted Jacob's offer, on May 20, 1873, the two men received U.S. Patent 139,121 from the United States Patent and Trademark Office. The patented rivet was later incorporated into the company's jean design and advertisements. Contrary to an advertising campaign suggesting that Levi Strauss sold his first jeans to

38 gold miners during the California Gold Rush (which peaked in 1849), the manufacturing of denim overalls only began in the 1870s. Levi Strauss started the business at the 90 Sacramento Street address in San Francisco. He next moved the location to 62 Sacramento Street then 63 & 65 Sacramento Street. By changing the location of the store the company began to become more successful. Levi Strauss advertising sign Modern jeans began to appear in the 1920s, but sales were largely confined to the working people of the western United States, such as cowboys, lumberjacks, and railroad workers. Levi s jeans apparently were first introduced to the East during the dude ranch craze of the 1930s, when vacationing Easterners returned home with tales (and usually examples) of the hard-wearing pants with rivets. Another boost came in World War II, when blue jeans were declared an essential commodity and were sold only to people engaged in defense work. From a company with fifteen salespeople, two plants, and almost no business east of the Mississippi in 1946, the organization grew in thirty years to include a sales force of more than 22,000, with 50 plants and offices in 35 countries. In the 1950s and 1960s, Levi's jeans became popular among a wide range of youth subcultures, including greasers, mods, rockers, hippies and skinheads. Levi's popular shrink-to-fit 501s were sold in a unique sizing arrangement; the indicated size referred to

39 the size of the jeans prior to shrinking, and the shrinkage was substantial. The company still produces these unshrunk, uniquely sized jeans, and they are still Levi's number one selling product. Although popular lore (abetted by company marketing) holds that the original design remains unaltered, this is not the case: the company's president got too close to a campfire, and the rivet at the bottom of the crotch conducted the fire's heat too well; the offending rivet, which is depicted in old advertisements, was removed. 1990s and later By the 1990s, the brand was facing competition from other brands and cheaper products from overseas, and began accelerating the pace of its US factory closures and its use of offshore subcontracting agreements. In 1991, Levi Strauss faced a scandal involving six subsidiary factories on the Northern Mariana Islands, a U.S. commonwealth, where some 3% of Levi's jeans sold annually with the Made in the USA label were shown to have been made by Chinese laborers under what the United States Department of Labor called "slavelike" conditions. Today, Levis jeans are made overseas. Strauss headquarters in San Francisco and staged hunger strikes and sit-ins in protest of Cited for sub-minimum wages, seven-day work weeks with 12-hour shifts, poor living conditions and other indignities, Tan Holdings Corporation, Levi Strauss' Marianas subcontractor, paid what were then the largest fines in U.S. labor history, distributing more than $9 million in restitution to some 1,200 employees. Levi Strauss claimed no knowledge of the offenses, then severed ties to the Tan family and instituted labor reforms and inspection practices in its offshore facilities. The activist group Fuerza Unida (United Force) was formed following the January 1990 closure of a plant in San Antonio, Texas, in which 1,150 seamstresses (primarily Hispanic women), some of whom had worked for Levi Strauss for decades, saw their jobs exported to Costa Rica. During the mid- and late-1990s, Fuerza Unida picketed the Levi the company's labor policies. The company took on multi-billion dollar debt in February 1996 to help finance a series of leveraged stock buyouts among family members. Shares in Levi Strauss stock are not publicly traded; the firm is today owned almost entirely by indirect descendants and relatives of Levi Strauss, whose four nephews inherited the San Francisco dry goods firm after their uncle's death in The corporation's bonds are traded publicly, as are shares of the company's Japanese affiliate, Levi Strauss Japan K.K. In June 1996, the company offered to pay its workers an unusual dividend of up to $750 million in six years' time, having halted an employee stock plan at the time of the internal family buyout. However, the company failed to make cash flow targets, and no worker dividends were paid. In 2002, Levi Strauss began a close business collaboration with Wal-Mart, producing a special line of "Signature" jeans and other clothes for exclusive sale in Wal-Mart stores until Levi Strauss Signature jeans can now be purchased at several stores in the US, Canada, India and Japan.

40 According to the New York Times, Levi Strauss leads the apparel industry in trademark infringement cases, filing nearly 100 lawsuits against competitors since Most cases center on the alleged imitation of Levi's back pocket double arc stitching pattern (U.S. trademark #1,139,254), which Levi filed for trademark in Levi's has sued Guess?, Esprit Holdings, Zegna, Zumiez and Lucky Brand Jeans, among other companies. By 2007, Levi Strauss was again said to be profitable after declining sales in nine of the previous ten years. Its total annual sales, of just over $4 billion, were $3 billion less than during its peak performance in the mid 1990s. After more than two decades of family ownership, rumors of a possible public stock offering were floated in the media in July In 2009, it was noted in the media for selling Jeans on interest-free credit, due to the Global Recession. Advertising Levi's marketing style has often made use of old recordings of popular music in television commercials, ranging from traditional pop to punk rock. Notable examples include Ben E King ("Stand By Me"), Percy Sledge ("When a Man Loves a Woman"), Eddie Cochran ("C'mon Everybody!"), Marc Bolan ("20th Century Boy"), Screamin' Jay Hawkins ("Heart Attack & Vine"), The Clash ("Should I Stay or Should I Go?"), as well as lesser known material, such as "Falling Elevators" by MC 900 Ft. Jesus and "Flat Beat" and "Monday Massacre" by Mr. Oizo. Many of these songs were re-released by their record labels as a tie-in with the ad campaigns, resulting in increased popularity and sales of the recordings and the creation of iconic visual associations with the music, such as the use of a topless male model wearing jeans underwater in the 1992 adverts featuring "Wonderful World" and "Mad about the Boy" and the puppet, Flat Eric, in the ads featuring music by Mr. Oizo. Song title Songs re-popularized by Levi's commercials Artist Original recording Year of Levi's advert "Wonderful World" Sam Cooke "I Heard It Through the Grapevine" Marvin Gaye "When a Man Loves a Percy Sledge 1966 Woman" "C'mon Everybody" Eddie Cochran "The Joker" Steve Miller Band "Should I Stay or Should I Go" The Clash "20th Century Boy" T. Rex UK chart US chart

41 "Mad about the Boy" Dinah Washington "Inside" Stiltskin "Turn On, Tune In, Cop Out" Freak Power "Boombastic" Shaggy "Spaceman" Babylon Zoo "Underwater Love" Smoke City "A Nanny in Manhattan" Lilys "Whine and Grine" Prince Buster "Flat Beat" Mr. Oizo "Before You Leave" Pepe Deluxé Pepe Jeans Pepe Jeans junior Founded London (1973) Founder(s) Nitin, Arun, and Milan Shah Headquarters Sant Feliu de Llobregat, Spain Pepe Jeans London is a denim and casual wear jeans brand that was established in the Portobello Road area of London in From its origins as a tiny market stall to more than half a US billion dollar brand, Pepe has transformed itself into a jeanswear label found throughout Europe. The brand today has presence in more than 80 countries across the world.

42 History In 1973 it was originally just a weekend road side stall on the Portobello Road Market located in west London established by three brothers: Nitin Shah, Arun Shah and Milan Shah. Nitin and his three brothers later started their own company Sholemay Ltd trading, as Pepe Jeans. The brand was named "Pepe", because it was a short word that could be written without much trouble. By 1975, the number of market stalls grew to four. One of the stalls was stationed at Kensington Market, which was the selling place of many denim sellers who found success in the jean biz. With the expansion of their business, the brothers opened a Pepe Jeans boutique at Kings Road, London. After that, they opened another boutique at Carnaby Street and a 25,000-feet office and warehouse at the Avonmore Trading Estate. Through the 1980s, the denim company achieved European prominence. Pepe Jeans was launched in India in The brand is currently a leading player in the premium jeans and casual wear segment, enjoying a market share of more than 25 percent. The current Pepe jeans logo appeared in The songs "Heart and Soul" by T'Pau and "How Soon Is Now?" by The Smiths were used to advertise the brand in 1987 and 1988 respectively. Also the supermodel Kate Moss first advertising campaign was for Pepe Jeans. The company is controlled by the group Torreal, investment company of the Spanish entrepreneur Juan Abelló. Torreal purchased 43% of Pepe Jeans for fifty millon Euros. Wrangler (Jeans) Wrangler logo Wrangler is a manufacturer of jeans. The brand is owned by the VF Corporation, who also own Lee, JanSport and The North Face, among others. Its headquarters is in

43 downtown Greensboro, North Carolina, with production plants in a variety of locations throughout the world. Wrangler International is now chaired by Dieter Jacobfeuerborn. Wrangler Jeans were first made by Blue Bell, who acquired the brand when they took over Casey Jones in the mid-1940s. Blue Bell employed Bernard Lichtenstein ('Rodeo Ben'), a Polish tailor from Łódź who worked closely with cowboys, to help design jeans suitable for rodeo use. This was the origin of Wrangler Jeans. The 13MWZ style, introduced in 1947 as lot number 11MWZ, is still available worldwide. In addition to this, Wrangler has since introduced several other lines that are more designated towards a specific group or demographic. Some examples of this are 20X, Riggs and Aura. Wrangler also has a line of music accessories targeted toward country music fans. Wrangler also has a series of football commercials with Brett Favre playing a game of touch football in the mud. History of the company year old C.C. Hudson leaves Spring Hill Farm in Williamson County, Tennessee, and makes his way to North Carolina, seeking his fortune in the emerging textile industry. He finds work in a factory making overalls, where he earns 25 cents a day sewing on buttons Hudson's workplace closes. He and a few others buy several of the sewing machines, lease space above a downtown grocery store and incorporate as the Hudson Overall Company The business builds its first factory on the corner of South Elm Street and changes its name to Blue Bell Overall Company. Legend has it that a group of railroad workers who bought overalls at the Hudson store gave C.C. Hudson a bell, and after spending time in the factory, the bell like everything else became covered in blue denim dust, hence "Blue Bell" Blue Bell launches Super Big Ben Overalls made out of 100% Sanforized Fabric that reduces shrinkage after washing to less than 1%. This sets a new standard for the industry. 1943

44 Blue Bell acquires the Casey Jones Work-Clothes Company and the rights to a rarely used Casey Jones brand name: Wrangler Blue Bell starts to develop a jeans line for cowboys, hiring famous tailor Rodeo Ben. Blue Bell workers take part in a contest to give the jeans a brand name. The winning name is Wrangler, synonymous with the name for a working cowboy After designing and testing 13 pairs of prototype jeans, Blue Bell introduces the Wrangler 11MWZ to American consumers. The Wrangler Jeans featured several innovations aimed particularly for Cowboys: Felled outseams and inseams, rear pockets positioned for comfort in the saddle, 'no scratch' rivet pocket reinforcement, a zipper fly, and use of a strong tack in the crotch instead of a metal rivet. A promo campaign is launched featuring 11MWZ test riders and rodeo legends Freckles Brown, Bill Linderman and Jim Shoulders Lot number 11MWZ is renamed 13MWZ to conform to the 13 oz. per yard denim weight being used to manufacture the style Blue Bell opens a factory in Belgium and the Wrangler brand name enjoys a successful launch in Europe Wrangler jeans become an icon of youth culture, synonymous with teenagers the world over The Pro Cowboys Association of American (PRCA) officially endorses Wrangler Jeans Blue Bell merges with the VF Corporation of Pennsylvania, preparing the ground for the global success of the Wrangler brand in every 5 pairs of jeans sold in America is a Wrangler.

45 th anniversary of the 13MWZ. A Special Collectors Edition of the 13MWZ is created to celebrate this event "Whatever you ride" TV ad campaign is launched, focusing on core brand values Wrangler Jeans made in Mexico 2002 Wranglers last U.S. sewing plant closed "There's a bit of the West in all of us" TV and print ad campaign is launched, staying true to Wrangler's unique heritage while shifting it to a modern European setting A new Wrangler European print campaign is launched, "Wanted", representing a powerful modern expression of Wrangler's roots. Wrangler also celebrates 100 years of manufacturing quality denim by producing Blue Bell by Wrangler, a limited edition collection that reproduces the first Wrangler jeans right down to the last detail and is only available at selected premium stores. Wrangler also reworks the mainstream collection, producing new fits using icons inspired by the very first jeans designed by Rodeo Ben. The Wrangler brand is now recognized in 22 European countries Harrison Ford wore Wrangler jeans at his wedding to Calista Flockhart in June Auto racing From , Dale Earnhardt drove a blue and yellow # 15 Wrangler Ford in the NASCAR Winston Cup Series for car owner Bud Moore. Wrangler followed Earnhardt to Richard Childress Racing number 3. Oddly, They also stayed on that year with Bud Moore and driver Ricky Rudd. In 1988, the primary sponsor became GM Goodwrench and the car was painted black. He became known as the "Man In Black," but Wrangler was still an associate sponsor. Earnhardt raced in the Wrangler colors again at the 1999 Winston. The car is now on display at the RCR museum, curated by one of Dale's former crew members, gasman Danny "Chocolate" Myers. A 1987 Wrangler Chevrolet is also on

46 display at the museum. Currently, Wrangler has an associate sponsorship deal with Dale Earnhardt, Jr. who has appeared in several commercials for the famed jean company. Dale Jr. won in a #3 Wrangler car on July 2, 2010 at Daytona, in the NASCAR Nationwide Series. Diesel (Brand) Diesel SpA Private Type Industry Fashion Founded Molvena, Italy (1978) Founder(s) Renzo Rosso Adriano Goldschmied Headquarters Molvena Key people Renzo Rosso, owner and CEO Wilbert Das, Creative Director, Products Apparel and Accessories Revenue 491 million (2009) Employees 647 (2009) Diesel S.p.A. is an Italian design company. It is best known for clothing aimed at the young adult market, particularly jeans. The company is owned by its founder Renzo Rosso, and is based in Breganze in northern Italy.

47 History Retail store in Tel Aviv, Israel. The company was founded by Renzo Rosso and his former boss Adriano Goldschmied of the AG Jeans company, in Diesel's milestone years include 1985 (Renzo's complete acquisition of the company), 1988 the hiring straight out of fashion college of ex-head designer and Creative Director Wilbert Das, 1991 (beginning of the international marketing strategy) and 1996 (opening of Diesel's first flagship store on New York City's Lexington Avenue). Rosso said that they learnt marketing from the US, creativity from Italy and systems from Germany. In February 2007, the company launched a major intimates and beachwear division for men and women that is carried in the retail and department stores. Diesel Black Gold was announced in November The company has around 2,200 employees in 18 subsidiaries across Europe, Asia and the Americas. Its products are available in 5000 retail outlets, of which 300 are Diesel-branded stores. Annual sales were approximately 1.2 billion in 2005, and 1.3 billion in Revenue is largely derived from denim sales, but also extremely successful and influential ranges of accessories and children's wear - Diesel Kid.

48 Production of denim jeans is based mainly in Italy. The biggest store is located in Milan, Italy. Brands Diesel store in Krakow, Poland. For over 20 years all Diesel collections, including licensed products, were made under the Creative Direction of Wilbert Das. Currently the principal lines are Diesel, the main line, and Diesel Black Gold, a new collection launched in 2007 in the casual-luxury segment. The children's collection is called Diesel Kid. Diesel Denim Gallery offers limited edition denim sold in innovative art-gallery-like spaces. Diesel also offers collections of footwear, intimate (underwear), and bags. Diesel's licensed collections are eyewear (made with Safilo), jewelry and watches (Fossil), and fragrances (L'Oréal). L'Oreal and Diesel launched Fuel for Life (for him and for her) in the fall of A mini-collection for Adidas was launched in 2008 called Adidas Originals Denim by Diesel. The underwear license is held by the US company Mast Industries Inc., who also make lingerie for Victoria's Secret. A new collaboration with AGV has seen the launch of a Helmet. Recently Diesel Home, thanks to collaborations with Moroso nd Foscarini has been launched in the market.

49 The Diesel company has acquired stakes in the brands Victor & Rolf, Maison Martin Margiela and DSquared2. Creative Direction Diesel's Creative Director and head designer is Wilbert Das who has worked for Diesel since Wilbert started as a designer on the Male, Accessories, Leather, and Kids lines. He rose quickly to head the style office and creative areas of Diesel, and in 1993 was given the official title of Creative Director, with responsibilities ranging from directing all product design as well as all communication campaigns. From clothing and accessory design to advertising, new media, merchandising, retail and interior design (:including stores, showrooms, offices, hotels), planning of fashion shows and events, as well as developing new brand extensions such as houseware, furniture and even automobiles. Literally all aspects of the Diesel brand s style and image fell under Wilbert s responsibility. Wilbert Das left Diesel in late 2009 amid rumors of irreconcilable differences with CEO Rosso over the future direction of the company. In 2010 the new creative direction was given to the french fashion founder of WAD Magazine (We Are Different), Bruno Collin.

50 Wilbert Das

51 Marketing "Dieselwall" in Berlin In recent years the company has driven its attention to endorsing young creativity by sponsoring several projects such as the Diesel-U-Music Contest. Diesel has been the founding partner of International Talent Support in its various forms. Diesel has also offered sponsorship and creative contribution to the 2006 edition of Vienna's Life Ball AIDS charity, as well as the Sundance Film Festival. Diesel's innovative approach to marketing has let it to be perhaps the first clothing company to market their clothing in video games, and has developed innovative approaches to fashion shows. In December 2008, Diesel announced a marketing partnership with Sony Computer Entertainment Europe, to sell their designs in Sony's virtual world, Playstation Home with the majority of the proceeds going to the OTBF Only The Brave Foundation (Diesel's charitable arm). From January to September of 2008, Diesel spent $5.8 million on U.S. advertising, according to TNS Media Intelligence. A November 2009 New York Post article mentions that "the CEO of the fashion house's US division, Steve Birkhold, has resigned to join a rival firm." According to the Post, Birkhold was allegedly attempting to secure deals to expand the Diesel brand into U.S.

52 chain stores like Macy's, while Diesel's Italy execs feared such a move would dilute the brand's image. In 2010 from its headquarters in Breganze, it directly manages 18 subsidiaries across Europe, Asia and the Americas. It is now present in more than 80 countries with 5,000 points of sale, including more than 400 company owned stores. Diesel is part of the holding Only the Brave, which also incorporates 55DSL (a brand strongly linked to street wear and urban culture); Staff International (an Italian company that manufactures and distributes clothing for brands such as Diesel Denim Gallery, Maison Martin Margiela, DSquared2, Vivienne Westwood, Viktor & Rolf and Marc Jacobs Menswear); and controlling stakes in Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor and Rolf.

53 Chapter 7 Trousers A pair of trousers Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across both as in skirts and dresses). The word trousers is used in the UK, but some other Englishspeaking countries such as Australia, Canada, South Africa, and the United States often refer to such items of clothing as pants. Additional synonyms include slacks, strides, kegs or kex, breeches or breeks. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come

54 down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the garment. In most of the Western world, trousers have been the most common form of lower body clothing for males since the early 19th century, although shorts are also widely worn, and kilts and other garments may be worn in various regions and cultures. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for some sports, and also often by children. Since the late 20th century, trousers have become prevalent for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist, and may be held up by their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces). Leggings are form-fitting trousers of a clingy material, often knitted cotton and lycra. Terminology North America, Australia and New Zealand use pants as the general category term (though Ambrose Bierce found the word "vulgar exceedingly" and recommended trousers), whereas trousers (sometimes slacks in Australia, the United States and, due to a recent resurgence, the United Kingdom) refers, often more formally, to tailored garments with a waistband and (typically) belt-loops and a fly-front. For instance, informal elastic-waist knitted garments would be called pants, but not slacks. Most speakers in the United Kingdom use trousers or slacks as the general category term; North Americans call undergarments underwear, underpants, or panties (the last are women's garments specifically) to distinguish them from other pants that are worn on the outside. The term drawers normally refers to undergarments, but in some dialects, may be found as a synonym for "breeches", that is, trousers. In these dialects, the term underdrawers is used for undergarments. In Australia, men's undergarments are called underwear, underpants, undies, under-dacks, dacks or jocks. pants usually refers to underwear but is used, interchangably with trousers, in some Northern dialects. In some parts of Scotland, trousers are known as trews, from which the word Trousers itself comes. whilst in Scots, trousers are known as breeks. Various people in the fashion industry use the word pant instead of pants. This is nonstandard usage. The word "pants" is a plurale tantum, always in plural form much like the words "scissors" and "tongs". History Prehistory There is some evidence, from figurative art, of trousers being worn in the Upper Paleolithic. An example are the figurines found at the Siberian sites of Mal'ta and Buret'.

55 Antiquity Germanic trousers of the 4th century found in the Thorsberg moor, Germany Trousers first enter recorded history in the 6th century BCE, with the appearance of horse-riding Iranian peoples in Greek ethnography. At this time, not only the Persians, but also allied Central Asian peoples such as the Bactrians, Armenians, and the Tigraxauda Scythians are known to have worn them. Trousers are believed to have been worn by both sexes among these early users. The ancient Greeks used the term "ἀναξυρίδες" (anaxyrides) for the trousers worn by eastern nations and "σαράβαρα" (sarabara) for the loose trousers worn by the Scythians. However, they did not wear trousers since they thought them ridiculous, using the word

56 "θύλακες" (thulakes), pl. of "θύλακος" (thulakos), "sack", as a slang term for the loose trousers of Persians and other orientals. Republican Rome viewed the draped clothing of Egypt, Babylon, Greece, and Minoan (Crete) culture as an emblem of civilization and disdained trousers as the mark of barbarians. As the Empire expanded beyond the Mediterranean basin, however, the greater warmth provided by trousers led to their adoption. Two types of trousers eventually saw widespread use in Rome; the Feminalia, which fit snugly and usually fell to knee of mid-calf length, and the Braccae, a loose fitting trouser which was closed at the ankles. Both garments were adopted originally from the dress of the Celts of Europe, although later familiarity with the Persian Near East, and the Teutons increased acceptance. Feminalia and Braccae both began use as military garments, spreading to civilian dress later and were eventually made in a variety of materials including leather, wool, cotton and silk. Medieval Europe Trousers of various design were worn throughout the Middles Ages in Europe, especially by males. Loose fitting trousers were worn in Byzantium under long tunics,. and were worn by many of the barbarian tribes that migrated through Europe in the Early Middle Ages, as evidenced by both artistic sources and the such relics as the Fourth Century costumes recovered from the Thorsberg bog. Trousers in this period, generally called brais, varied in length and were often closed at the cuff or even have attached feet covering, although open legged pants also seen. By the Eighth Century there is evidence of the wearing in Europe of two layers of trousers, especially among upper class males. This under layer is today referred to by costume historians as drawers, although that usage did not emerge until the late 16th Century. Over the drawers were worn trousers of wool or linen, which in the 10th Century began to be referred to as breeches in many places. Tightness of fit and length of leg varied by period, class, and geography. (Open legged trousers can be seen on the Norman soldiers of the Bayeux Tapestry.) Although Charlemagne ( ) is recorded to have habitually worn his trousers, donning the Byzantine tunic only for ceremonial occasions, the influence of the Roman past and the example of Byzantium led to the increasing use of long tunics by men, hiding most of the trousers from view and eventually rendering it an undergarment for many. As undergarments, these trousers became briefer or longer as the length of the various medieval outer-garments changed and were met by, and usually attached to another garment variously called hose or stockings. In the 14th Century it became common among the men of the noble and knightly classes to connect the hose directly to their pourpoints (the padded under jacket worn with armored breastplates that would later evolve into the doublet) rather than to their drawers. In the 15th Century, rising hemlines led to ever briefer drawers until they were dispensed with altogether by the most fashionable elites who joined their skin tight hose back into

57 trousers. These trousers, which we would today call tights but which were still called hose or sometimes joined hose at the time, emerged late in the 15th Century and were conspicuous by their open crotch which was covered by an independently fastening front panel, the codpiece. The exposure of the hose to the waist was consistent with 15th Century trends which also brought pourpoint/doublet and the shirt, previous undergarments, into view, but the most revealing of these fashions were only ever adopted at court and not by the general population. Men's clothes in Hungary in the 15th century consisted of a shirt and trousers as underwear, and a dolman worn over them, as well as a short fur-lined or sheepskin coat. Hungarians generally wore simple trousers, only their colour being unusual; the dolman covered the greater part of the trousers. Medieval Asia The Korean word for trousers baji (originally paji) first appears in recorded history around the turn of the 15th Century, but pants may have been in use by Korean society for sometime. From at least this time pants were worn by both sexes in Korea. Men wore trousers both outer garments or beneath skirts while it was unusual for adult women to wear their pants (termed sokgot) without a covering skirt. As in Europe, a wide variety of styles came to define regions and time periods and age and gender groups, from the unlined gouei to the padded sombaji' Modern Europe Around the turn of the turn of the 16th century it became convention to separate hose into two pieces, one from the waist to the crotch which fastened around the top of the legs, called Trunk Hose, and the other running beneath it to the foot. The trunk hose soon reach down the thigh to fasten below the knee and were now usually called "breeches" to distinguish them from the lower leg coverings still called hose or, sometimes stockings. By the end of the 16th century, the codpiece had also been incorporated into breeches which featured a fly or fall front opening. During the French Revolution, the male citizens of France adopted a working-class costume including ankle-length trousers, or pantaloons, (from a Commedia dell'arte character named Pantalone) in place of the aristocratic knee-breeches. The new garment of the revolutionaries differed from that of the ancien regime upper classes in three ways: It was loose where the style for breeches had most recently been form-fitting, it was ankle length where breeches had generally been knee-length for more than two centuries, and they were open at the bottom while breeches were fastened. This style was introduced to England in the early 19th century, possibly by Beau Brummell, and by mid-century had supplanted breeches as fashionable street wear. At this point, even knee length pants adopted the open bottoms of trousers and were worn by young boys, for sports, and in tropical climates. Breeches proper survived into the 20th century as Court Dress, and also in baggy mid-calf (or three-quarter length) version known as plus-fours or knickers worn

58 for active sports and by young school-boys. Types of breeches are still worn today by baseball and American football players. Sailors may have played a role in the worldwide dissemination of trousers as a fashion. In the 17th and 18th centuries, sailors wore baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Sailors also pioneered the wearing of jeans, trousers made of denim. These became more popular in the late 19th century in the American West because of their ruggedness and durability. Women's trousers Amazon wearing trousers and carrying a shield with an attached patterned cloth and a quiver. Ancient Greek Attic white-ground alabastron, ca. 470 BC, British Museum, London

59 Although women began wearing men's trousers for outdoor work a hundred years earlier in Western countries, it was taboo for women to wear trousers. It was only in the 1970s, that trousers became acceptable for Western women to wear. Starting around the mid 19th Century, Wigan pit brow girls scandalized Victorian society by wearing trousers for their work at the local coal mines. They wore skirts over their trousers and rolled them up to their waist to keep them out of the way. Although pit brow lasses worked above-ground at the pit-head, their task of sorting and shovelling coal involved hard manual labour, so wearing the usual long skirts of the time would have greatly hindered their movements. Women working the ranches of the 19th century American West also wore trousers for riding. In the early 20th century aviatrices and other working women often wore trousers. Frequent photographs from the 1930s of actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn in trousers helped make trousers acceptable for women. During World War II, women working in factories and doing other forms of "men's work" on war service wore trousers when the work demanded it. In the post-war era, trousers became acceptable casual wear for gardening, the beach, and other leisurely pursuits. In the 1960s, André Courrèges introduced long trousers for women as a fashion item, In Britain during the Second World War, because of the rationing of clothing, many women took to wearing their husbands' civilian clothes, including their trousers, to work while their husbands were away from home serving in the armed forces. This was partly because they were seen as practical garments of workwear and partly to allow women to keep their clothing allowance for other uses. As this practice of wearing trousers became more widespread and as the men's clothing wore out, replacements were needed. By the summer of 1944, it was reported that sales of women's trousers were five times more than they had been in the previous year. leading to the era of the pantsuit and designer jeans and the gradual eroding of social prohibitions against girls and women wearing trousers in schools, the workplace and in fine restaurants.

60 Parts of trousers Pleats Parts of trousers Pleats just below the waistband on the front typify many styles of formal and casual trousers, including suit trousers and khakis. There may be one, two, three, or no pleats, which may face either direction. When the pleats open towards the pockets they are called reverse pleats (typical of corduroy trousers) and when they open toward the zipper, they are known as forward pleats.

61 Cuffs Most trouser-makers finish the legs by hemming the bottom to prevent fraying. Trousers with turn-ups (cuffs in American English), after hemming, are rolled outward and sometimes pressed or stitched into place. The main reason for the turn-ups is to add weight to the bottom of the leg, to help the drape of the trousers. Fly A fly is a covering over an opening join concealing the mechanism, such as a zipper, velcro or buttons, used to join the opening. In trousers, this is most commonly an opening covering the groin, which makes the pants easier to put on or take off. The opening also allows men to urinate without lowering their pants. Trouser support Trousers have varied historically in whether or not they have a fly. Originally, hose did not cover the area between the legs. This was instead covered by a doublet or by a codpiece. When breeches were worn, during the Regency period for example, they were fall-fronted (or broad fall). Later, after trousers (pantaloons) were invented, the fly-front (split fall) emerged. The panelled front returned as a sporting option, such as in riding breeches, but is now hardly ever used, a fly being by far the most common fastening. Most flies now use a zipper, though button-fly pants such as Levi's 501 jeans continue to be available. At present, most trousers are held up through the assistance of a belt which is passed through the belt loops on the waistband of the trousers. However, this was traditionally a style acceptable only for casual trousers and work trousers; suit trousers and formal trousers were suspended by the use of braces (suspenders in American English) attached to buttons located on the interior or exterior of the waistband. Today, this remains the preferred method of trouser support amongst adherents of classical British tailoring. Many men claim this method is more effective and more comfortable because it requires no cinching of the waist or periodic adjustment. Society In modern Western society, males customarily wear trousers and not skirts or dresses. There are exceptions, however, such as the ceremonial Scottish kilt and Greek foustanella, as well as robes or robe-like clothing like the cassocks of clergy and the academic robes, both rarely worn today in daily use.

62 Convertible Ventilated Trousers shown with one leg cover removed Based on Deuteronomy 22:5 in the Bible ("The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man"), some groups, such as Mennonites, Amish, Hutterites, some Baptists, a few churches of Christ, and a few others believe that women should not wear trousers, but only skirts and dresses. These groups do permit women to wear underpants as long as they are hidden. Among certain groups, low-rise, baggy trousers exposing underwear became fashionable; for example, among skaters and in 1990s hip hop fashion. This fashion is called sagging or, alternatively, "busting slack."

63 Cut-offs are homemade shorts made by cutting the legs off trousers, usually after holes have been worn in fabric around the knees. This extends the useful life of the trousers. The remaining leg fabric may be hemmed or left to fray after being cut. Law In May 2004 in Louisiana, state legislator Derrick Shepherd proposed a bill that would make it a crime to appear in public wearing trousers below the waist and thereby exposing one's skin or "intimate clothing". The Louisiana bill was retracted after negative public reaction. In February 2005, Virginia legislators tried to pass a similar law that would have made punishable by a $50 fine: "any person who, while in a public place, intentionally wears and displays his below-waist undergarments, intended to cover a person's intimate parts, in a lewd or indecent manner". (It is not clear whether, with the same coverage by the trousers, exposing underwear was considered worse than exposing bare skin, or whether the latter was already covered by another law.) The law passed in the Virginia House of Delegates. However, various criticisms to it arose. For example, newspaper columnists and radio talk show hosts consistently said that since most people that would be penalized under the law would be young African-American men, the law would thus be a form of discrimination against them. Virginia's state senators voted against passing the law. laws in Louisiana: "This is a new ordinance that deals specifically with sagging pants. It's Carol Broussard, mayor of Delcambre, said that he will sign the proposal unanimously passed by town councillors, so that wearing trousers that reveal one's underwear will lead to a $500 penalty and the risk of six months in jail. "If you expose your private parts, you'll get a fine," said Mr Broussard. He told the Associated Press that people wearing low-slung trousers are "better off taking the pants off and wearing a dress." Ted Ayo, town attorney, said that the new legislation would expand on existing indecent exposure about showing off your underwear in public". Mr. Broussard has received local criticism for the ordinance, with some Delcambre residents claiming that the proposal is racially motivated, due to the popularity of "sagging pants" among black hip-hop fans. However, he responded: "White people wear sagging pants, too."

64 Chapter 8 Bermuda Shorts & Blood Stripe Bermuda Shorts Policeman in Bermuda attired in Bermuda shorts

65 British military commanders Brooke-Popham and Wavell in WW II Bermuda Shorts, also known as walking shorts or dress shorts, are a particular type of short trousers, now widely worn as semi-casual attire by both men and women. The hem can be cuffed or un-cuffed, around one inch above the knee. They are so-named because of their popularity in Bermuda, a British Overseas Territory, where they are considered appropriate business attire for men when made of suit-like material and worn with knee-length socks, a dress shirt, tie, and blazer. In addition, many businesses in the West that have a business casual policy similarly allow this kind of clothing in appropriate weather. They are available in a variety of colors, including many pastel shades as well as darker shades. Bermuda shorts originated with the British Army for wear in tropical and desert climates, and they are still worn by the Royal Navy. During the 2nd World War, there was a shortage of clothing in Bermuda. According to Jack Lightbourn, former Executive Vice President of the Bank of Bermuda Ltd., The General Managers of the two Banks in Bermuda, The Bank of Bermuda Ltd and The Bank of N.T. Butterfield and Sons Ltd were concerned that their male employees would not have suitable clothing to wear. They arranged for a tailor in Bermuda to make two pairs of shorts, modeled on the shorts of the British military, for each of their male employees. The shorts were made from a very itchy grey flannel material and each employee was supplied with two pairs of heavy grey

66 wool long socks to wear with the shorts. This was the beginning of Bermuda shorts as business attire in Bermuda. In the post war period local merchants such as Trimingham Bros. and H.A. & E. Smiths improved the design of the shorts and used bright colored materials as the shorts became more popular. True Bermuda shorts are not to be confused with "clam diggers" or "capri pants" extending below the knee. Cargo shorts may be a similar length, but are typically baggy or less "tailored" than Bermuda shorts. Blood Stripe The blood stripe is visible on the uniforms of the Marine Corps Recruit Depot San Diego Band in 2003 A blood stripe refers to a scarlet stripe worn down the outside leg seams of trousers on the dress uniform of the United States Marine Corps. This red stripe is 2 inches (5.1 cm) for general officers, 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) for other officers, and 1.12 inches (2.8 cm) for

67 enlisted Staff Noncommissioned Officers and Noncommissioned Officers. Modified versions are worn on the officers' evening dress uniforms, with the scarlet flanked with gold trim, and on members of the Marine Band, which wear the traditional red stripe with a white stripe in the center. History While trouser stripes were in use in various militaries for many years (especially the British Army, whose uniforms influenced American uniforms for many years, as well as the red stripes of the Spanish Navy Marines), red trouser stripes were not a predominant feature of any American Marine uniform until In that year, President Andrew Jackson ordered changes that included the adoption of the Army's practice of wearing stripes the same color as uniform jacket facings. These original stripes were buff white to match changes to the uniform jacket, but when the jacket was changed back to dark blue with red trim in 1839, the stripes remained, but altered to a similar blue edged in red. Tradition holds that in the Battle of Chapultepec in September 1847, Marine officers and NCOs sustained an unusually high casualty rate during the battle. In 1849, uniform regulations dictated that the stripes be changed to a solid red. Ten years later, a scarlet cord was inserted into the outer seams for noncommissioned officers and musicians, while a scarlet welt was added for officers. Finally, in 1904, the simple scarlet stripe seen today was adopted, with the varying widths prescribed for different ranks.

68 Chapter 9 Parachute Pants & Snowboarding Pants Parachute Pants Parachute pants are a style of trousers characterised by the use of nylon, especially ripstop nylon. In the original loose-fitting, extraneously zippered style of the late 70s/early 80s, "parachute" referred to the pants' synthetic nylon material. In the later 80s, "parachute" may have referred to the extreme bagginess of the pant. They are typically worn as menswear and are often brightly colored. Parachute pants became a fad in US culture in the 1980s as part of an increased cultural appropriation of breakdancing. Parachute pants played a pivotal role in the 1980s in fashion. Functional clothing Early breakdancers occasionally used heavy nylon to construct jumpsuits or trousers that would be able to endure contact with the break dancing surface ("break pad") while at the same time decreasing friction with the dancing surface, allowing speedy and intricate "downrock" routines without fear of friction burns or wear in clothing. Some, possibly apocryphal, sources attribute the use of genuine parachute nylon having been cut to make such trousers possible. In the early part of the 80s, parachute pants were more tight-fitting

69 and only later became looser. In the later 80s, the term "parachute pants" was used to describe any pants that were somewhat voluminous and narrow at the ankles, sometimes cinched with a tie cord running through the lower hem (unlike bellbottoms or wide-leg baggy jeans) in order to increase mobility for dance moves requiring flexibility. Due to both the use of nylon in the parachutes, and the large baggy appearance of the parachute pants, the style of pants became known as parachute pants. Often, early outfits were of a single color or slightly patchwork in nature as they were sometimes made of found materials. When manufactured and marketed as fashionable clothing, parachute pants were often constructed with lightweight synthetic fabrics, making this variety of pants more suitable for fashion than breakdancing. Fashionable clothing As fashion cut pants, parachute pants were popularized by hip-hop performers. From this point, they were often woven of loose, light fabric, with a low seat containing many folds, and sometimes printed with complex designs, ranging from neon patterns to prints resembling Middle Eastern pattern embroidery, contrasting the earlier monochromatic heavy jumpsuits and trousers. They were also sometimes seen with many zippers, hookand-loop fasteners, and pockets, although many of these pockets were too small to be used as pockets and existed only in order to apply another zipper or other superficial feature to the outfit. Parachute pants were then used primarily in choreographed hip hop dancing, with the light, baggy fabric and folds visually enhancing the flowing rhythm of the dancers' moves while allowing for greater comfort and mobility. Decline in use Parachute pants are infrequent in fashion as of 2010 and have received little serious exposure since the late 1980s. By the early 1990s parachute pants were sometimes mocked in popular culture as emblems of the 1980s, much as flares and bellbottoms are associated with the 1960s/1970s. In her 2010 world-wide tour, Colombian singer Shakira has been seen wearing "Parachute Pants" in several occasions. Snowboarding Pants Snowboarding pants are outdoor clothing specially customized to meet the needs of snowboarders. These specialized garments for the lower body are used by snowboarders practically for comfort and safety reasons. Snowboarding is a physically demanding sport which requires enough protection from the cold weather and other outside forces, thus the main

70 purpose of Snowboarding Pants is to keep the body warm, dry, and protected against crashes. It should also help maintain the body's Thermal Equilibrium. The best way to maintain the body's Thermal Equilibrium is through the Three Layer System. The Three Layer System means that the clothing has three different layers with equally unique and important functions and purposes. In the case of Snowboarding Pants, the first layer, also called the base layer, is the one with direct contact to the skin. Its purpose is to wick moisture away from the skin and keep the body dry and comfortable. The second layer, or the insulation layer, also keeps moisture away from the body, but more importantly it provides insulation and warmth for the body from the cold weather by trapping the body heat. The third and outer layer of the Snowboarding Pants, also called the outer shell, is the one in direct contact to the outside environment. This layer should be water- and windproof, but at the same time should allow the body to breathe and wick away accumulated moisture. The best Snowboarding Pants depends one one s personal needs and specific conditions like weather and location. Snowboarding pants available in the market are offered in different types, different specialized functions, and specific fabric and materials. For instance, when Snowboarding at night, the best pair should have reflective material since it make one easier to spot in the dark. When out in cold weather, or for people who easily gets cold, one could add an extra-lining for the pants. Wearing a base layer bottom underneath the Snowboarding Pants will also provide more heat on chilly days. Snowboarding pants with lots of pockets are also available to those who need to carry many items with them. These are other things to consider in a pair Snowboarding Pants: Fabric Fit Water-Resistant Features Fabric Outdoor pants are commonly made out of tightly woven nylon or polyester. These materials are durable and water-resistant. Other fabric materials being used for Snowboarding Pants are nylon and polyester microfibers. These fabrics are woven using extremely fine fibers which are more expensive, but very durable and fit for high performance activities. Fit Snowboarding garments are made to fit more loosely as compared to skiing clothing. But this doesn't necessarily have to be baggy and distracting, just enough room to allow more freedom of movement when doing tricks.

71 Water-Resistant Features A quality Snowboarding Pants help keep away water and snow from entering the body. One feature is having an elastic waist that provides for the right fit and comfort. Another feature to prevent snow from entering the pants is an open bottom with gaiter of lightweight and moisture-resistant fabric which is attached inside the pants and extends down over the top of the boot. This is very suitable for deep snow conditions. Pants with sealed seems will also keep the body dry and comfortable.

72 Chapter 10 Sweatpants & Tap Pants Sweatpants Three males wearing grey sweatpants

73 Sweatpants are an informal variety of soft trousers intended for comfort or athletic purposes. In the UK they are varyingly known as track suit bottoms or the more informal jogging bottoms. In Australia and New Zealand they are known as trackies, track (or tracksuit) pants. Design Sweatpants are usually made from cotton, and the chief characteristic distinguishing them from other athletic pants is the elastic band located around the ankles. Sweatpants are traditionally ash gray in color but are now available in essentially any color. They are usually quite "baggy" and loose, which makes them easy to slip into (and out of) and allows a great deal of flexibility and comfort. In addition, this design traps less heat than most conventional trousers, which may be a disadvantage in some contexts (such as cold temperatures) and an advantage in others (such as body heat-increasing aerobic activities). The sweatpant variations listed below are made from different materials. Sweatpants are widely used in schools, sports, etc. because they are comfortable and keep the cold out while they also don't get too hot in warmer temperatures. Variations There are many variations on the sweatpant design that have evolved to define their own categories of athletic pants. These variations include fashion pants, windpants, tearaway pants, and muscle pants. Fashion pants Fashion pants typically refers to "fashion conscious" sportswear, such as the pants produced by Juicy Couture. The distinguishing characteristic is that fashion pants lack the elastic band at the ankles. Windpants Very similar to, but not to be confused with sweatpants are windpants, also known as windbreakers, which are lighter and serve to shield the wearer from cold wind rather than insulate. Windpants are almost always made out of polyester or nylon. Some have polyester tricot. Some types of windpants have a separate inner liner made of cotton. Because of this Undergarments are not required while wearing windpants. Due to the substance's natural friction against both itself and human legs, nylon makes "swooshing" sounds during walking. Windpants often have zippers on each ankle, allowing athletes to unzip the end of each leg to pull the pants over their footwear. Some windpants have zippers that run the full length so the pants can be simply unzipped entirely; in this case, shorts are normally worn underneath.

74 Tearaway pants Tearaway pants, also known as breakaway pants, rip-off pants, or (in the UK) popper pants, are another variation of sweatpants, and are closely related to windpants. Tearaway pants are windpants with metal snaps running the length of both legs. Some tearaway pants have snaps on only part of the legs, but normally the snaps run the entire length. Some tearaway pants are reversible. Some do not have pockets but since shorts are usually worn underneath tearaway pants, many people open the top snaps to gain access to pockets in their shorts. Sometimes, there are buttons above each set of snaps to add more closure. The buttons and snaps allow athletes to remove their tearaway pants in a timely manner to compete in some sports. Basketball and track and field are the two sports most commonly associated with tearaway pants and windpants. Muscle pants Adidas is the largest manufacturer of tearaway pants, followed by Nike, Inc. Other manufacturers are Spalding, Russell Athletic, Teamwork Athletic Apparel, Wilson Sporting Goods, And 1, Reebok, Champion, Polo Ralph Lauren, Converse, Old Navy, Foot Locker, Tommy Hilfiger, Fila, and numerous other brands. Muscle pants more closely resemble regular sweatpants than tearaway pants or windpants. Muscle pants are usually made out of thin cotton material. Muscle pants are often characterized by wild patterns and sometimes flamboyant designs. Muscle pants were designed for use in bodybuilding; bodybuilders needed a special kind of pants to accommodate their bulging muscles and bodies while working out. Muscle pants can be traced back to late A number of brands have manufactured these pants, including International Muscle (previously known as International Baggyz), California Crazee Wear, Platinum Everywear, Zero Gravity, Stonewear USA, Kushi, Appartus, and many others. The most famous brand name of muscle pants was Zubaz, which was licensed to include sports team logos and names on their muscle pants and other apparel. Zubaz's slogan was "Dare to be Different". Zubaz were made popular in a 1986 Prince video.

75 Tap Pants Tap pants (rear view). Tap pants are a form of lingerie worn mostly by women. It is also known by the names of French knickers, side-cut shorts, and dance shorts. As the name implies, they are a type of shorts, in that they cover the pelvic area and the upper part of the upper legs. Tap pants look much like track shorts, allow freedom of movement, and can be worn as an outer garment over other types of underwear (e.g., g-strings). However, most wearers