SERVICE N 36 SERVICE DES PUBLICS. et culturel LOUIS VUITTON - MARC JACOBS L.V.M.J. AIDE À LA VISITE LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

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1 SERVICE DES PUBLICS VISITOR S GUIDE, N 3 Département pédagogique et culturel ACCÈS Les Arts Décoratifs 107, rue de Rivoli 7001 Paris tel Information : > Opening hours Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 am to :00 pm evening hours on Thursday from :00 pm to 9:00 pm closed on Monday Métro stops Palais-Royal, Pyramides, Tuileries Buses 21, 27, 39, 8, 8, 9, 72, 81, 9 Parking Carrousel du Louvre, Pyramides Vélib bicycle station Station 101 > Access for visitors with disabilities: the museum may be accessed through 10, rue de Rivoli 7001 Paris DÉPARTEMENT PÉDAGOGIQUE ET CULTUREL > Students and adults Group visits, information, and reservations at address : adac@lesartsdecoratifs.fr tel / 7 fax > Ages to 18 Workshops, guided visits for ages to 18, information and reservations at adress : jeune@lesartsdecoratifs.fr tel / 7 fax : tel / 7 fax : RATES Full rate : 9,0 Reduced rate : 8,00 Free access under the age of 2 for members of the European Union. This ticket allows access to the Arts Décoratifs Museum (except for the nave), as well as to Fashion and Textile, and Advertisement exhibitions. > Guided visits for students and adults > Guided visits for individuals These visits are scheduled on a regular basis. Please refer to the calendar on the website. > Guided group visits for visitors between the ages of to 17, as well as for students between the ages of 18 and 2 from the European Union: Guided visits (1hour) : 0 / group Guided visits (1hour 30 min.) : 90 / group > Guided visits for students between the ages of 18 and 2 outside of the European Union: Guided visits (1hour) : 80 / group Guided visits (1hour 30 min.) : 110 / group > Guided visits for adults over the age of 2: Guided visits (1hour 30 min.) : 11 / group + 7,0 per person Guided visits (2 hours) : 133 / group + 7,0 per person A maximum of 20 people per group. Les Arts Décoratifs. Jenny Dupuis pour le département pédagogique et culturel, mars 2012, document reproductible SERVICE despublics despublics département Fig. 01 Portrait of Louis Vuitton Fig. 02 Portrait of Marc Jacobs Length of Visit : 1h30 Fig. 02 Fig. 01 Les Arts Décoratifs 107, rue de Rivoli 7001 Paris Tel. : N 3 AIDE À LA VISITE LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS pédagogique et culturel LOUIS VUITTON - MARC JACOBS L.V.M.J. The creations of two personalities from two very different eras are presented in parallel on two different floors of the musée des Arts décoratifs, in an exhibition dedicated to Louis Vuitton ( ), founder of the firm, and Marc Jacobs, the artistic director of LVMH since The exhibition is a personalized journey through the creations of two men and tells the story of how two great innovators have contributed to the history of the fashion industry, from the industrial period of the mid 19th century to the globalization of the L.V. label at the beginning of the 21st century. The founder of the company, Louis Vuitton is revealed as an innovator, whose entrepreneurial instincts contributed largely to the birth of de luxe products catering to the demands of the affluent bourgeoisie in the fashionable world of the second half of 19th century Paris. Over a hundred and forty years later, Marc Jacobs, a young American designer, will play a major part in establishing the international image of the Louis Vuitton brand, from a single store in Paris, opened in 18, to the 1 stores which exist today world-wide, always faithful to the history of Louis Vuitton, but catering also to a new clientele. The scenography of the exhibition by Samantha Gainsbury and Joseph Bennett, consecrates one floor to each personality thus creating two different parallel worlds which contiguously have turned this company into the world s most profitable luxury fashion brand. p p

FLOOR PLAN OF VISIT FIRST AND NOTES 17 13 accès au niveau 2 par l ascenceur du palier Access to the 2 nd floor with panoramic lift only 18 17b 1 22b 7 22 b 28a 31b 29 31 b 28b 30 33 3 3 3 3 1 2 37 38

2 FLOOR PLAN OF VISIT FIRST AND NOTES accès au niveau 2 par l ascenceur du palier Access to the 2 nd floor with panoramic lift only 18 17b 1 22b 7 22 b 28a 31b b 28b Panoramic lift 1 st floor Panoramic lift 2 nd floor Showcase 17.bis TOPSY TURVY Showcase 22. MAKING OF ONE BAG Showcase 22.bis BAGS (CHOCOLATE BOX) FIRST FLOOR Showcase 28.(a) BLUEY VUITTON Showcase 28.(b) PUT ON YOUR SUNDAY CLOTHES Showcase 02. A DAY S WARDROBE Showcase 29. OH! GRAM Showcase 03. THE PERFECT WARDROBE Showcase 30. GO WILD IN THE COUNTRY Showcase 0. TRUNKS FOR ONE TRIP Showcase 31. FROM HAIR TO ETERNITY Showcase 0.bis INNOVATIONS Showcase 31.bis KAGE MOSS Showcase 0. CANVASES Showcase 33. JUST FOR KICKS Showcase 0. LV COLLECTION CATALOGUE BY LOUIS VUITTON Showcase 3. TAKASHI MURAKAMI Showcase 07. CONTAINER / CONTENTS Showcase 3. MY FAVOURITE COLOUR IS SHINY Showcase 13. LV MONOGRAM BY GEORGES VUITTON Showcase 3. STEPHEN SPROUSE Showcase 1. LOUIS VUITTON 1, 2012, CHRISTIAN BORSTLAP FOR NOWNESS Showcase 37. Showcase 38. PEEPSHOW SO LONG DEARIE. RICHARD PRINCE Two photographs of Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs respectively, welcome the visitor at the entrance to the exhibition. The first floor is divided into twelve spaces dedicated to the life and contribution to the history of fashion of Louis Vuitton. 2 11

MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS PERMANENT COLLECTIONS THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS FIRST FLOOR Prolongation of the visit in the permanent collections of the musée des Arts décoratifs: Following the

during the Art Déco period (7) Fourth Floor Room 20: concerning Exoticism () Room 2: voyages in the 18th century () About Louis Vuitton Born in the village of Anchay in 1821, Louis Vuitton left his

3 MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS PERMANENT COLLECTIONS THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS FIRST FLOOR Prolongation of the visit in the permanent collections of the musée des Arts décoratifs: Following the theme of packing, travelling and exotism Third Floor Room 2: travel chest from the Middle Ages (1) Rooms 10 and 11: writing essentials from the 17th century (2, 3) Room 2: using exotic materials during the Art Déco period (7) Fourth Floor Room 20: concerning Exoticism () Room 2: voyages in the 18th century () About Louis Vuitton Born in the village of Anchay in 1821, Louis Vuitton left his native Jura in the East of France, to travel on foot to Paris at the age of 1. He soon became an apprentice packer, box and trunk-maker with the firm of Maréchal in the rue Saint Honoré in the first district of the capital. The son of a carpenter, Vuitton quickly mastered the skill of woodworking and trunkmaking. Louis Vuitton gained his experience in the art of packing by travelling to the homes of wealthy ladies where he was employed to pack their clothes before they embarked on long journeys. Within ten years he had become such a master in the art of packing that he would regularly accompany his master Romain Maréchal to the Tuileries Palace where they worked as exclusive packers to the Empress Eugénie and her ladies-in-waiting. The portrait of the Empress depicts the fashion of extremely voluminous garments worn by wealthy ladies at that time. Room 38: concerning Universal Exhibitions in the 19th century () TH FLOOR 3RD FLOOR GROUND FLOOR Access to the 1 st to the th floor with panoramic lift Access level 1 cloakroom, restroom cash desk LOBBY 107 main entrance Access to the 1 st to the th floor with panoramic lift ACCES through Jardin des Tuileries Rue de Rivoli 7 About Volume and Invention Through this installation, composed of seven mannequins, the volume of garments necessary for one day in the life of an affluent lady is shown, from the undergarments to the four outfits essential for the morning, the afternoon, for visiting (Fig.) and finally for the evening ball. Skirts could contain up to seven meters of material hence the necessity of a professional packer. (2) The theme of volume is repeated in miniature with a doll, whose trunk would be packed with all the clothes depicted on these panels and organised by typology. (Fig.3) This is a typical example of what a woman s wardrobe in the second half of the 19th century would be like. (3) Just after his marriage in 18 Louis Vuitton opened his own boutique in the rue Neuvedes-Capucines, close to the Place Vendôme in Paris. He shortened his credentials to Louis Vuitton - Packer and added specialized in the packing of fashionable clothes. He soon understood the need to create a range of luggage which would be functional, innovative and of top-quality. He invented the flat-topped trunk which was far easier to stack than its predecessor, the dome-topped trunk. In this space the 20 to 30 trunks necessary for a single voyage are exhibited, many bearing the plaque of his neighbor and friend Charles-Frederick Worth, showing the close collaboration between the two houses and the link between the world of packing and haute-couture. At that time there were between three and four hundred trunk-makers in Paris, fifty-eight of which were to be found in the first district of Paris alone. () The competition was severe! About Signature and Style This space shows the technique of the fabrication of Louis Vuittons trunks. The trunks are all closed in order to show their exteriors. To make his trunks lighter Louis Vuitton covered a poplar or pine wood structure with an elegant, grey-painted canvas called the Trianon canvas, which once varnished would render it waterproof. () Different canvases used for covering Louis Vuitton s trunks, each adopted with the aim of thwarting counterfeiters, are shown. Other trunk-makers would use canvas too but it is the designs patented by Louis Vuitton which would set him apart from his competitors. The brown and beige and red and beige striped designs were patented in 187 (Fig.), and in 1888 the more sophisticated checkered covering was implemented. The latter was the first trunk covering to integrate the complete name of Louis Vuitton like a signature in its design. The history of these patents has been traced through the National Patents Archives. (bis et Fig.7) With the expansion of his business Louis Vuitton opened workshops in Asnières, a village 10 3

4 THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS FIRST FLOOR THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS situated outside Paris on the banks of the Seine in order to profit from river transport. The original store became too small and the premises were transferred to the rue Scribe in Paris, near the Paris Opera, right in the heart of the new Paris, which had been completely transformed by the urban planning of Baron Haussmann. The new store was situated next to the Grand Hotel and close to the Gare Saint Lazare. The Grand Hotel was a favorite choice for the rapidly growing numbers of affluent, international travelers who flocked to Paris at that time and provided a rich clientele for the Vuitton house. In the nearby rue de la Paix were to be found Paris most famous jewelers, perfumers and fashion houses (Doucet, Paquin, Charles-Fréderick Worth). Vuitton was invited to exhibit his firm s products at the Universal Exhibitions held in Paris in 187, 1878 and In the 187 Exhibition, Louis Vuitton, commercially innovative as usual, would show all the products which were for sale in his boutique, unlike other exhibitors who showed only their masterpieces. For each Exhibition he would take out a patent for his innovations, thus protecting them from counterfeiting. Louis Vuitton was awarded several medals during these exhibitions which he would proudly add to invoice headings. Forever striving to do more for his clientele, Louis Vuitton designed trunks for every occasion e.g. the trunk bed seen unfolded, with the corresponding design plans. (1887) (b) Indeed due to rapid industrial expansion during the second half of the 18th century and the progress made in maritime and rail transport, the demand for new types of trunks for packing both goods and travellers clothes was high. A closed trunk dating from 1882 shows the individual monogram of the client for whom it was made. One of Louis Vuitton s main aims was to personalize the pieces of luggage bought by his wealthy clients by printing their monograms or coats-of-arms on the canvas covering. About Georges Vuitton and his innovations In 1890 Georges Vuitton, Louis eldest son, invented the theft-proof five tumbler lock, which provided each customer with a personal combination to secure all his luggage. To show the connection between the container and its contents, two weekend trunks are shown with an x-ray vision of the thirty articles inside, essential for a weekend away. (7) Louis Vuitton died in February His son Georges would play an important role in the managing of the business after Louis death. Georges opened the first Vuitton store abroad in Oxford Street in London in 188. (Fig.) In 1892 he produced the first Louis Vuitton commercial catalogue for the London boutique. The catalogue presented a wide range of articles from very specialized trunks for transporting particular objects to simple bags for the typical traveler. () In 189 Georges introduced a new canvas design in honor of his father, but also in a renewed attempt to discourage counterfeiting. Georges new design would feature Louis Vuitton s initials on a background pattern of stars and flowers. This light, resistant canvas was varnished and completely water-proof. The monogram design was an immediate success and creates the link between the world of Louis Vuitton and that of Marc Jacobs on the second floor. Today the Louis Vuitton label is recognized world-wide by the simple monogram L.V. (13) About Marc Jacob s collaborations with other artists Sprouse - Goodbye Dearie: Marc Jacobs works in close collaboration with contemporary artists. In 2001 he asked Stephen Sprouse ( ), an artist and fashion designer, to work on a new design for Louis Vuitton. Sprouse created the graffiti line, using the traditional L.V. monogram but reworking it in graffiti fashion on the canvas of the bags for the Spring/Summer collection of (Fig.9) The graffiti idea was transferred to the clothes collection. The model presented is wearing a dress printed with another Sprouse creation, the leopard design, has been turned upsidedown ( Handstand ) in much the same way as Marc Jacobs has succeeded in inversing fashion tendencies, with a total liberty of expression that is of ultimate importance to his creative work. (17bis) The graffiti and leopard designs were reused on the clothes of the Fall/Winter collection. Here the patterned prints are presented on mannequins. (3) Murakami + Bags + Painting + Film Superflat Projection: In 2002 at the invitation of Marc Jacobs, Takashi Murakami, a contemporary Japanese artist from Tokyo, began his longstanding collaboration with the Vuitton fashion label. At first he contributed artwork which was then used in the design of a series of handbags. (Fig.11) In collaboration with Marc Jacobs he created the Monogram Multicolor canvas range of bags and accessories. This range used the standard L.V. monogram, but in thirty-three different colorways. (Fig.10) Murakami also designed the Cherry Blossom, Cherry and Eye Love monograms. These series had an enormous commercial success. This space also includes a painting by Murakami and the projection of the film Superflat, in which Murakami explains the artistic theory he has evolved and on which his artistic creation is based. (3) Richard Prince + Bags: Richard Prince, an American photographer, famous for his technique of rephotographing, was invited by Marc Jacobs to collaborate on his Spring 2008 collection. The collection was inspired in part by Prince s Nurse Paintings which debuted in New York in (Fig.13) In the series of paintings, the nurses, inspired by the covers of pulp romance novels, all wore masks. In Marc Jacobs fashion show the nurses wear masks to show that for Louis Vuitton there is only one Vuitton woman. (38) The bags in this showcase are from the Monogram Jokes series. Prince s Jokes are mainly satirical one-liners and poke fun at topics such as religion, the relationship between husband and wife and his relations with women. Richard Prince also designed the Monogram Pulp collection in collaboration with Marc Jacobs. ABOUT THE SHOW The exhibition finishes with Peepshow. The visitor is invited to watch a fashion show, the ultimate stage of Marc Jacob s work, through a peephole. For the last two years Marc Jacob s shows have been real entertainment events which reflect Marc Jacob s world and at the same time everything he has achieved over the last fifteen years whilst working for Louis Vuitton. (37) BIBLIOGRAPHY ET SITES INTERNET Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs, catalogue of the exhibition, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris Malles de Légende-Louis Vuitton - Ed. de la Martinière, Paris 2010 Louis Vuitton Paul-Gérard Pasols, Ed. de la Martinière, Paris 200 L Initiation au Voyage - Ed. Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris 1987 Marc Jacobs Documentary by Loïc Prigent 9

THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS celebrities such as Keith Richards, Madonna, Scarlett Johansson and most recently Angelina Jolie in his catwalk shows and publicity

5 THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS THE INSTALLATIONS AND COLLECTIONS celebrities such as Keith Richards, Madonna, Scarlett Johansson and most recently Angelina Jolie in his catwalk shows and publicity campaigns. Monogram Oh! Gram : Marc Jacobs first collection for Vuitton in March 1998 is totally minimalist. The predominant colours are white, grey and black whilst logos, monograms and bags are noticeably absent. Little by little the Monogram will make its appearance before becoming outrageously obvious in his collections for the year Marc Jabobs thus legitimizes the entrance into the world of fashion of Louis Vuitton. (29 et Fig.8) About tendences Marc Jacobs uses recurring themes in his clothes designs. This tendency is revealed in his work as artistic director for Louis Vuitton over the last fifteen years. Bluey Vuitton: Marc Jacob s use of his favorite color is revealed in various Louis Vuitton fashion shows.(28a) Put on your Sunday Clothes: In his Fall/Winter collection Marc Jacobs refers back to the origins of Louis Vuitton s profession as a packer of large volumes of material and other objects in the trunks of the 19th century. (28b) Go Wild in the Country: Marc Jacob s fascination with the exotic is revealed on these models taken from several collections wearing animal masks which correspond in differing ways to the materials used in these collections. (30) From Hair to Eternity: The exotic tendency is repeated on this model with the addition of a wig inspired by the creations of the Australian performer Leigh Bowery in 1980s London. The heads and hair-styles of the mannequins in the exhibiton were designed by Guido Palau and Desi Santiago, close associates of Marc Jacobs. (31) Just for Kicks: Cancan dancers model a wide range of Vuitton shoes, many designed by Fabrizio Viti and made in Vuitton s Italian workshops. The effect is kaleidoscopic! (33) My favourite colour is shiny: A disco dance floor and punk hair-dos animate this installation which contains creations made using various shiny materials and appliqués from a number of different collections ready for the dance floor! (3) Louise The articulated mannequin used throughout the second floor to model Marc Jacobs designs is called Louise. Made especially for the exhibition in Japan by the designer Emma Davidge, she is indeed unique! About Marc Jacobs and his world After completing his studies at the Parsons School of Art and design in New York, this young American designer, born in 193, worked for the label Perry Ellis, before having to leave in 1992 after his Grunge Collection was severely criticized by the fashion industry. The creation of his own label, Marc Jacobs in 198, was followed in 2001 by the secondary line Marc by Marc Jacobs. He was invited to become Artistic Director of LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Moët and Chandon and Hennessey) by the conglomerate s President Bernard Arnault in It was a daring choice! Marc Jacobs arrived at a strategic moment in the history of Louis Vuitton. Fine leather goods were infiltrating the world of fashion. Bernard Arnault asked Marc Jacobs to create a new ready-to-wear collection that would incorporate Vuitton s fine leather and canvas bags. Treading carefully, Marc Jacobs first collection for Louis Vuitton was a luxury sportswear line. The first fashion show was held in 1998 but the L.V. monogram was concealed in the linings of the clothes shown. It was only in the Spring-Summer collection of 2000 that the famous monogram came out of its hiding place and was fully revealed on the catwalk. (Fig.8) Marc Jacobs works by instinct rather than strategy. In his workshop in a private mansion in the rue du Bac in the seventh district of Paris, he surrounds himself with elements that provide him with inspiration. The Animated Inspiration Board or Tumbler, is an organic representation of inspirational objects, photos from magazines, pieces of material, vintage clothes, favorite books and films, which help Marc Jacobs in his creative work. (17) About Bags Contrary to traditional Louis Vuitton bags, such as Keepall or the Speedy, bags created by Marc Jacobs and his collaborators are edited only for the period of the collection. Bags (Chocolate Box): This seven-meter long installation showing fifteen years of creation, is composed of fifty-three Louis Vuitton bags in non-chronological order. The bags are both fashionable and temporary and pass by like a stylistic lexicon of the Vuitton label. This universe exists in close collaboration with the permanent Vuitton collections, but has attracted a new clientele. (22bis et Fig.11) Making of one bag: Defined as the trunk of the 21st century, an L.V. bag is the crystallization of a collection. The elaboration and making of a bag is a long and painstaking affair. Vuitton bags are mostly made by hand in different workshops and are sold uniquely in the 1 Louis Vuitton stores around the world, in Louis Vuitton boutiques, in certain big department stores and at the official Louis Vuitton site online. (22) Certain of the following exhibits are commented by Marc Jacobs himself. His voice is interwoven with mood music. Each commentary lasts between 1 seconds and 1 minute 30 seconds. A simultaneous translation in French is projected onto the wall. Fig.13 The «Nurses» at the S/S 2008 Louis Vuitton fashion show, October 2007, 12 bags from the Jokes Monogram line created by Richard Prince, Isabeli Fontana, Karolina Kurkova, Lara Stone, Nadja Auermann, Naomi Campbell LOUIS VUITTON / CHRIS MOORE About celebrities Kate Moss has often modeled for Vuitton and is here seen on the catwalk in one of Marc Jacob s latest collections for Louis Vuitton. (Fall/Winter ) (Fig.12) The outfit she is wearing in the video is remodeled by Louise mannequin in the adjacent cage. (31bis) Marc Jacobs frequently links the words of entertainment and fashion, by using 8

09 Bag Alma Graffiti and matching gloves,

Sprouse, S/S 2001, L'Officiel Christophe

0 Town dress, 18-188 Les Arts Décoratifs,

and London, 1887 Louis Vuitton Archives Fig.

10 Louis Vuitton F/W 2011/2012 Fashion Show

07 Louis Vuitton bed trunk in Damier canvas,

6 Fig. 03 Doll trousseau and trunk, c. 18 Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris gift of Maurice Bisson, 19, inv. 333 Fig. 08 Vogue France, S/S 2000 Ruven Afanador Fig. 09 Bag Alma Graffiti and matching gloves, created in collaboration with Stephen Sprouse, S/S 2001, L'Officiel Christophe Kutner Fig. 0 Town dress, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection Mode and Textile purchased 199, inv Fig. 0 Louis Vuitton poster advertisement Paris and London, 1887 Louis Vuitton Archives Fig. 0 Trunk Louis Vuitton , Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris gift of Maison Louis Vuitton, 1987, inv Fig. 10 Louis Vuitton F/W 2011/2012 Fashion Show Louis Vuitton / Chris Moore Fig. 07 Louis Vuitton bed trunk in Damier canvas, 1891 Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris gift of Maison Louis Vuitton, 1987, inv Crédits photographiques : Photos Arts Décoratifs / Jean Tholance : fig. 3,,, 7 All rights reserved. Fig. 11 Trunk Panda, toile Monogram, 2003 Louis Vuitton/ Takashi Murakami/Kaikai Kiki Co, Ltd. All Rights reserved Fig. 12 Louis Vuitton F/W 2011/2012 Fashion Show Louis Vuitton / Chris Moore 7

Press Release. New Designs on View in the Inaugural Display

Press Release. New Designs on View in the Inaugural Display Press Release 15 February, 2018 New Designs on View in the Inaugural Display The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris is renewing its inaugural display. Forty new haute couture designs will be exhibited from