10 THINGS WE LOVE STYLE. Fashion to covet this summer

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Ashlie Edwards
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1 Edited by SUPRIYA DRAVID 10 THINGS WE LOVE Fashion to covet this summer Dolce & Gabbana IMAXTREE THE COMEBACK: LOGO MANIA Logo mania is turning into a sartorial statement this summer as designers invited everyone to celebrate brand loyalties. Moschino sent out swimsuits and mini dresses emblazoned with the house s signature gold lettering while Dolce & Gabbana and Versace revived the retro logo tee for Spring Maria Grazia Chiuri s Millennial-friendly debut collection for Christian Dior brazenly printed J adior on the waistband and on exposed bra straps. Back home, Munkee See Munkee Doo s overlays were knitted with their name. No better time than now to wear your heart on your sleeve (or anywhere else for that matter). ä 33

THE BRANDS TO KNOW: SUSTAINABLE FASHION Maku Maku For these new labels, sustainable is

Founded just last year by 23-yearold entrepreneur Nishanth Chopra, has already made its

Chopra comes from a family of textile manufacturers based in Erode, Tamil Nadu, so he s

With a view to take his family business in a new, sustainable direction, Chopra teamed up

silhouettes using only handwoven, sustainable fibres like organic cotton, Ahimsa silk,

Another label that believes in the beauty of slow fashion is Kolkata-based Maku by

A graduate of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, Das wants to bring the

2 THE BRANDS TO KNOW: SUSTAINABLE FASHION Maku Maku For these new labels, sustainable is more than just a marketing buzzword. Founded just last year by 23-yearold entrepreneur Nishanth Chopra, has already made its debut at Tranoi, Paris, and at the Milan White Show. Chopra comes from a family of textile manufacturers based in Erode, Tamil Nadu, so he s no stranger to the damaging effects of large-scale garment production. With a view to take his family business in a new, sustainable direction, Chopra teamed up with UK-based designer Richard Malone to create his on-trend, editorial-worthy silhouettes using only handwoven, sustainable fibres like organic cotton, Ahimsa silk, and linen. Another label that believes in the beauty of slow fashion is Kolkata-based Maku by Santanu Das. A graduate of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, Das wants to bring the spotlight back to where your garment is really coming from, and works closely with over 100 weaving families across West Bengal. Maku, which is the Bengali word for the handloom shuttle to move the thread, works with handspun khadi and Tangail sari weavers to create simple daywear clothes in undyed fabrics and naturally-extracted indigo that have a wider appeal. ä Maku OSHADI AND MAKU

BIG SUMMER TOTES THE MUST-HAVE: Céline Mulberry Loewe (From top) Marni

IMAXTREE; LOEWE; MARNI; PAUL SMITH Balenciaga Call it the perfect

handle carryalls; Balenciaga s oversized shoppers; Loewe s slouchy,

woman-on-the-go (school run, work, gym you get the drift).

opt for a grand top handle tote from Stella McCartney or Mulberry.

First mentioned in the 2008 Erykah Badu song Master Teacher, it s

3 BIG SUMMER TOTES THE MUST-HAVE: Céline Mulberry Loewe (From top) Marni bag, `1,19,120 (approx); Paul Smith bag, `92,800. IMAXTREE; LOEWE; MARNI; PAUL SMITH Balenciaga Call it the perfect marriage of size and style as larger than life bags leapt at us from all corners of Spring 2017 runways. For example, Marni s blown-up drawstring pouch, belt bags, and top handle carryalls; Balenciaga s oversized shoppers; Loewe s slouchy, tan tote; and Céline s massive version of a bag for the woman-on-the-go (school run, work, gym you get the drift). If you re looking for something a bit more structured for the office, opt for a grand top handle tote from Stella McCartney or Mulberry. ä THE WORD: WOKE Urban Dictionary defines woke as being aware. First mentioned in the 2008 Erykah Badu song Master Teacher, it s become an adjective for anything that purports to be politically aware or socially minded. Take Dior s We Should All Be Feminists T-shirt or Ashish s Immigrant hoodie. That s woke. 36

THE NAME TO KNOW: KSHITIJ KANKARIA Ellery Alexander Wang Céline Eká Isabel Marant Rajesh Pratap Singh THE DIRECTION:

Marant, Alexander Wang, Céline, Ellery, and Chalayan.

challenging the ideas of identity and femininity.

more thoughtful, practical approach to dressing up.

fluid silhouettes at Eká. Fusing modern ease with real-world appeal, modesty is always a good policy.

time, Kankaria has quietly cemented his status as the stylist to watch out for.

He curated a multi-designer, diverse cast show for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2017 and worked with The Handloom

Fall/Winter 2017. Bazaar caught up with this man on a mission. How did you get into fashion?

However, my styling career picked up while the label wasn t doing so well.

Soon I was signed by the artists management agency Inega, who now handle my portfolio.

I ve had the opportunity to collaborare with Rajesh Pratap Singh, Suket Dhir, and Sanjay Garg.

4 THE NAME TO KNOW: KSHITIJ KANKARIA Ellery Alexander Wang Céline Eká Isabel Marant Rajesh Pratap Singh THE DIRECTION: MODEST FASHION Slowly making its way into mainstream consciousness, the modest fashion movement is steadily emerging as a relevant retail and runway trend. Think longer hemlines, higher necklines, looser silhouettes, and fuller sleeves as demonstrated by Valentino, Isabel Marant, Alexander Wang, Céline, Ellery, and Chalayan. No longer just associated with the idea of religious conservatism and archaic ideologies, modest fashion is challenging the ideas of identity and femininity. It is, in part, a reaction to the intense scrutiny that women s bodies are often placed under, as well as being a more thoughtful, practical approach to dressing up. Closer home, too, body-con made way for buttoned-up and structured shoulders at Rajesh Pratap Singh, and billowy, fluid silhouettes at Eká. Fusing modern ease with real-world appeal, modesty is always a good policy. THIS PAGE: IMAXTREE; SHIVAJI JUVEKAR / LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2017 ASHISH SHAH Within a short period of time, Kankaria has quietly cemented his status as the stylist to watch out for. So far, 2017 has been a busy year for him. He curated a multi-designer, diverse cast show for Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2017 and worked with The Handloom School, Maheshwar, and luxury lifestyle brand Good Earth on the opening presentation for Amazon Fashion Week Fall/Winter Bazaar caught up with this man on a mission. How did you get into fashion? I studied design at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar, and then moved to Mumbai where I started my athleisure label Soak. At the same time, I started styling for commercial projects and magazines just to make the rent. However, my styling career picked up while the label wasn t doing so well. I think I was too inexperienced at the time. Once I shut Soak, I decided to focus on styling. Soon I was signed by the artists management agency Inega, who now handle my portfolio. Favourite designers to work with? I ve had the opportunity to collaborare with Rajesh Pratap Singh, Suket Dhir, and Sanjay Garg. Their vision and aesthetic is so unique and detailed, which makes them inspiring to me. Beyond fashion, where do you look for inspiration? I try to get away from fashion when I can. I often travel to the hills around Rishikesh or to The Yoga House in Benaras if I want to escape. Real people, however, are my biggest inspirations. I like to observe how they dress and I am curious to know what they think. What does it mean to be a stylist? Fashion is all about creating wishes, bringing to life things that couldn t possibly exist. As a stylist you have to envision what people want, but what they can t have. What are you currently working on? Lots of things and, interestingly, most of them are design-based rather than styling projects. I consult for Fila, the sportswear brand, as well as Good Earth, and I m currently in talks to design Jet Airways s uniforms for next year. ä 38 29

Manolo Blahnik THE COLOUR: PINK For spring, the unabashedly feminine shade

), and fuchsia (Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna) to the more outlandish hot

by Ankita, Bottega Veneta, Gauri & Nainika, and Chanel Anavila THE SHOES:

and Valentino s now iconic studs lent a rocker-chic vibe.

5 Manolo Blahnik THE COLOUR: PINK For spring, the unabashedly feminine shade of pink comes in a range of tones from blush (BottegaVeneta), rose (Chanel ), and fuchsia (Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna) to the more outlandish hot pink and cerise we spotted at Hermès, Saaj by Ankita, and Ilk by Shikha and Vinita. Valentino Gianvito Rossi Prada Dior Fendi (Clockwise from top left) Saaj by Ankita, Bottega Veneta, Gauri & Nainika, and Chanel Anavila THE SHOES: KITTEN HEELS Sexy and sensible, the kitten heel in its new iteration is a welcome addition to spring. Manolo Blahnik sent out fuchsia-coloured versions of these haute steppers, and Valentino s now iconic studs lent a rocker-chic vibe. Prada played with an architectural heel, while Fendi, Gianvito Rossi, and Dior remained classically elegant. Step into these to channel old-school sophistication. ä RUNWAY IMAGES: MAXTREE; SHIVAJI JUVEKAR / LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 17; POMY ISSAR AMAZON INDIA FASHION WEEK SPRING/ SUMMER 17. PRODUCT IMAGES: FARFETCH; PRADA, DON PENNY/STUDIO D. 40

THE MOOD: SHEER CLOTHING Urvashi Joneja Spring 2017 was nothing

options that ranged from playful to provocative.

bodysuits that left nothing to the imagination, while at Urvashi

we spotted sheer overlays and capes paired with tiny cholis that

Anusree Reddy Tarun Tahiliani Amit GT Falguni & Shane Peacock Ekam

Unique Turn back the hands of time as the 80s make a comeback by

Temples glistened in bright blush shades at Kenzo and Chanel, and

Topshop Unique sent out side-swept bouncy curls referencing a

6 THE MOOD: SHEER CLOTHING Urvashi Joneja Spring 2017 was nothing short of sheer delight as designers offered up a slew of wispy options that ranged from playful to provocative. At Falguni & Shane Peacock, there were seethrough dresses and bodysuits that left nothing to the imagination, while at Urvashi Joneja, net acted as a delicate base to contrast the heavy layer of embellishments. Meanwhile, at Anushree Reddy, Tarun Tahiliani, and Payal Singhal, we spotted sheer overlays and capes paired with tiny cholis that served a sultry alternative to the dupatta. Anusree Reddy Tarun Tahiliani Amit GT Falguni & Shane Peacock Ekam Payal Singhal A Vineet Rahul Chanel Marc Jacobs Kenzo Topshop Unique Turn back the hands of time as the 80s make a comeback by way of hair and makeup. Temples glistened in bright blush shades at Kenzo and Chanel, and colour-pop eyelids, inspired by Bruce Weber s images of the period, were seen at Nina Ricci. The 80s show continued when it came to hair as well. Topshop Unique sent out side-swept bouncy curls referencing a young Cindi Lauper, while Marc Jacobs went full throttle and channelled the decade s iconic rave culture with everything from metallic eye makeup to the controversial coloured dreadlocks. ä THE MAKEUP: THE 80S IMAXTREE; SHIVAJI JUVEKAR / LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 17

Sheetal Mallar (left) and Lakshmi Menon in Savio Jon s Resort 2016 collection THE BIG IDEA: SAVIO JON GOA-BASED DESIGNER SAVIO JON is known for his slightly twisted but invariably beautiful take on

Jon put together a nucleus of clothes that comprised sleek, easy-to-wear silhouettes that transmitted all the electricity of a fashion statement.

7 Sheetal Mallar (left) and Lakshmi Menon in Savio Jon s Resort 2016 collection THE BIG IDEA: SAVIO JON GOA-BASED DESIGNER SAVIO JON is known for his slightly twisted but invariably beautiful take on conventional attire. After a six-year hiatus, he staged a comeback of sorts at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort Jon put together a nucleus of clothes that comprised sleek, easy-to-wear silhouettes that transmitted all the electricity of a fashion statement. Playing with the idea of deconstruction and reconstruction, the designer sent out dresses and shirts that seemed to be made up of multiple garments deftly sewn together to create a singular piece. While one half of the outfit appeared cutaway from a floral-patterned tunic in Dutch wax cotton, the other half comprised a checked frock (in the same fabric) but with a drop-waist hem and raffia fringing. Another outfit made of four differently-patterned pieces of cotton was a cross between a trouser and a skirt. This ability to experiment with the very shape and form of garments is what makes Jon a magical realist in the world of fashion ever since he set up his eponymous label in Through this deconstruction, I m attempting to reflect on how clothes are shaped, says Jon. It s a startlingly simple take on design, but one that allows Jon to question the very rules of pattern making. I m not a trained designer, I didn t go to fashion school, and when I wanted to I couldn t afford it. When I finally got the chance in 2013, I did a short course in pattern making at Central Saint Martins, London, he says. The course was his chance to hone his skill. For example, with my latest collection, there s no single story, yet everything looks harmonious. Nothing is superfluous even though there s a mix of colours, patterns, textures, and layers, he explains. Along with being experimental, Jon is always acutely aware of his wearer. I work as a stylist as well so that puts a lot of ideas in my head about how clothes should be worn. They need to be uncomplicated. For Spring 2017 Jon says he, wanted to make a wardrobe of travel-friendly clothing. It was also the first time he dabbled with some lightweight quilting, that will be perfect to weather the airport air conditioning. The desire to simplify is also reflective of his upbringing in Goa. It s a very laidback pace of living, he says. I m not hugely ambitious so I have a small team, but we focus on what s important meeting our deadlines and maintaining good quality. He might not put out a new collection every season, or even every year Jon admits that he would never do a winter collection since that s not something I experience in Goa at all. Each time he does share something new, Jon hopes that it will transcend time and trends. So the Madras-checked dresses and shirts from his Resort 2016 seen here on his constant muses, the multitalented supermodels Lakshmi Menon and photographer Sheetal Mallar or even his soft, white mul dresses from as far back as 2007, would not look out place in your wardrobe even now, 10 years later. Similarly, he s not afraid to repeat an idea that works; in his latest showing Jon paired a mustard asymmetrical satin dress worn over slim trousers it was a look that we ve seen him recreate in multiple iterations as far back as Spring Jon prefers the quiet life where he can focus on designing for the reality of life, for women who have jobs, and families, or for those who make their own meals or even grow their own vegetables. The clothes have to be able to fit into their life rather than the other way around. n Compiled by Butool Jamal SHIVANI GUPTA; SAVIO JON 44 45

Because Style only gets better with age

Because Style only gets better with age Welcome to a new edition of 40PlusStyle s trend reports! Are you excited about a new season and new trends? I always am! As long-term readers will know, I think