Australian mandarin oil bursts with life your guide to cosmetic regulations how to make your massage memorable

Transcription

1 SPRING edition 2011 Australian mandarin oil bursts with life your guide to cosmetic regulations how to make your massage memorable

2 this issue spring SPRING edition 2011 New green leaves, fresh bright blossoms, and warm rays of sunlight indicate the coming of Spring and along with it a new issue of Oily. Our Harvest story this season is filled with the positivity of improved environmental conditions for Australian Mandarin growers. We take a look at the processes involved in producing the delightful essential oil and appreciate the difficulties faced by the industry after years of drought. Up Close focuses on the differences between massage oils and provides therapists a practical guide to choosing the right oil for their clinic or salon. Plus we have a special guest article on Australian Cosmetic Regulations from Robert Forbes. It goes through top tips to follow when developing a new product and discusses the various governing bodies to be familiar with before a product launch. Valuable information that I m sure you will enjoy reading. His tips are very helpful! Lucille Wilson, Editor

3 Spring cover: Lavender Lavandula angustifolia Lavender essential oil is one of the most famous in aromatherapy. Steam distilled from the flowers, it has a clear, bright floral aroma with mild woody undertones. It offers exemplary cosmetic skincare benefits as it encourages cellular growth and balances skin sebum. It is also ideal for use in massage as it relaxes the mind whilst relieving muscular tension. Available in Certified Organic and Conventional from Australia, Bulgaria and France. Visit for more information. 04 Harvest: Australian Mandarin Essential Oil A favourite around the world. 12 Up Close: Massage oils Which one should you choose? 16 SME Forum: Cosmetic & Personal Care Products A guide to Australian Regulations 20 News: The latest happenings at SEOC Latest release products. 22 Product Specification: Mandarin Australian Oil Specification for manufacturers. 23 Formulation: Fresh Sunlight Lotion Featuring Mandarin Australian essential oil.

4 Bursting with life, Australian Mandarin Oil After years of drought, recent rains have brought new life. Australian mandarins are synonymous with cheerfulness and the recent drought breaks across many areas of the country are seeing growers welcoming cheer back to their industry. Queensland, New South Wales and Victorian growing regions have all experienced vital rainfall since late 2010 and whilst some areas of Queensland suffered serious flooding, the sweet mandarin crops are still very healthy. The mandarin has its origins in China, where it was given its name to honour members of the Imperial court. The fruit represented good fortune and was often used for medicinal purposes. Today, it is still utilised during Chinese New Year celebrations as gifts or decorations and has retained its significance as a traditional symbol. > 4

5 harvest The sweet, delicate essential oil is contained in the bright orange peel of the mandarin. 5

6 Mandarin was one of many citrus plants introduced by the First Fleet in 1788, yet it wasn t harvested as a commercial crop in Australia until the mid-1800s. The industry has continued to develop and it now equates to around 15% of the total national citrus harvest, second only to oranges. The majority of the Citrus Reticulata crop harvest is allocated to the fresh food industry. However, there is a strong and ever present demand for the bright, sweetly scented mandarin essential oil. Mandarin Trees The mandarin tree is most successful in Subtropical or Mediterranean climates. Here in Australia we are lucky to have both such environments which enable the fruit to be grown in a variety of locations across the country. Seedlings are planted in rows approximately six metres apart allowing for maximum growth and easy harvesting. A tree will begin to fruit after three years and by the time it is six years old it will have reached maturity. The annual cycle of fruit production can continue for up to twenty years if the tree is maintained in a healthy orchard. > 6

7 harvest The Australian mandarin industry now equates to around 15% of the national citrus harvest, second only to oranges. Whilst most fruit is allocated to the food industry there is a strong demand for the bright, sweetly scented essential oil. Above from far left to right: The fruit picking labour force includes a large number of transient workers and backpackers. Local communities support the orchards by providing the important infrastructure to service the influx of workers each season. A single picker will be allocated to an orchard row and will spend their day climbing ladders to remove all the ripe fruit from the trees. Pickers fill collections bins that hold 400 kilograms of mandarins. The average picker will fill up to 4 bins a day. Fruit is transported directly to the processing facility in collection bins from the packing sheds. Some fruit is also shipped in open cage trucks and unloaded via fruit receival bins. 7

8 Most orchards irrigate through a spray system, much like a large sprinkler. During the recent drought years not only was there less natural rainfall but the water allocation given to farmers to irrigate was also reduced. Harvests suffered and fruit availability declined, but thankfully the environmental conditions have now improved and whilst water allocations are still monitored they are expected to return to full capacity towards the end of Mandarin Fruit Harvest Delicate white blossoms begin to appear on the tree during the warmth of spring and are pollinated either by insects or through a natural asexual reproduction method called apomixis. Whilst mandarin flowers do possess both male and female reproductive organs the plant also has a system by which it ensures reproduction regardless of external influences. Fruit starts to appear during April and will continue through until early October. The cooler months are vital to the fruit development as the species requires colder temperatures to ripen completely. A seasonal labour force is employed to hand pick the mandarins. Orchard growers rely on locals, itinerant workers and backpackers 8

9 harvest to sustain the harvest and the surrounding communities play a vital role in supporting these individuals. Some orchards have onsite facilities for the pickers to reside in during the harvest months, but many seek accommodation in hostels or local rental properties. The cooperative nature of the community provides the necessary services to ensure the harvest is continually successful. Harvesting commences early in the morning and continues throughout the cool winter day. A single picker is allocated to a row of trees and on average will collect 1.5 tonnes of fruit per day. The sturdy collection bins are positioned along the rows for easy picker access and once full they are shipped to packing sheds for fruit inspection and grading. Mandarins are separated into two basic grades; fruit for the whole food industry and fruit for juicing and essential oil extraction. > Above from far left to right: The 2011 mandarin season has been the best in years after a much awaited break in the drought and higher water allocations being available to the farmers. All fruit is cleaned before it is processed to remove any dirt or debris. Extractors detach the mandarin fruit from the peel in preparation for essential oil extraction. To separate the bright essential oil from the water molecules it is processed through a centrifuge. 9

10 harvest Mandarin Essential Oil Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply partner receives mandarins directly from the packing sheds that have been classified as juice and essential oil extraction grade. The mandarins are first cycled through a cleaning system to remove all loose debris from the outer peel which contains the natural essential oil. A mechanical extractor is then utilised to squeeze and separate the juice-laden fruit whilst the flavedo component of the peel is combined with water and processed through cold press extraction. The resulting mixture of oil and water is further processed through a hydrocyclone and centrifuge to isolate the essential oil, before one final phase through a polisher refined centrifuge to remove any minute impurities. To produce a single kilo of essential oil between 700 and 800 kilograms of mandarin fruit must be processed by this method. Along with the essential oil approximately 350 to 400 kilograms of fresh mandarin juice is also extracted. The essential oil is a useful bi-product and provides growers and processors added value to the fruit harvest. Australian Mandarin essential oil is much loved, both in the aromatherapy and natural cosmetics industries. Its fresh, sweet aroma and rich orange to red colour offer unique qualities to essential oil blends and formulations. Cosmetically it is recognised for its skin softening properties and is ideal for use in creams, lotions or body butters. It can assist in reducing the appearance of stretch marks or scars and is an effective ingredient in a toning body oil. Mandarin oil is also often used in facial cleansers as it removes congestion and minimises oily skin breakouts. And it is reputed to be gentle enough to use with children and is often incorporated in natural baby-care products. New 2011 season supply has begun to arrive in stock so it is the perfect time for you to try our delightful Australian Mandarin essential oil! 1 10

11 Australian Mandarin essential oil is typically a deep orangey red colour. Coupled with the energetic aroma, it is a favourite in aromatherapy and natural cosmetics.

12 up close Making the most of a 12

13 When choosing massage oil for your salon or practice it s important to consider a number of different factors. Today we will review a range of elements that can influence your decision on which massage oil to choose. massage Texture & Viscosity Depending on the blend of oils, the textural attributes of massage oil can vary greatly from smooth and silky, to soft or slick. All of these variations have their benefits and play a vital part in how the oil feels on the client s skin during their treatment. Some clients love to feel their skin is being nourished during a massage. So, rich, smooth oils such as Olive and Jojoba are great choices to provide this sensation. Whereas other clients prefer a lighter feel that leaves minimal oil residue on the skin, Grapeseed and Camellia are excellent choices for this. Viscosity is another important attribute to look for in your massage oil. If the oil is too thick, it can be difficult to apply to the skin or if too light it could absorb quickly and cause friction during effleurage and petrissage massage techniques. > 13

14 up close If designing your own unique massage oil combination, consider Good Slip The amount of slip the oil provides directly impacts the quality of your massage. Too much slip and it could be difficult to hold and manipulate muscles efficiently, too little and the skin can be irritated and rubbed raw through natural resistance. Traditionally oils that provide good slip are Sweet Almond, Apricot Kernel, Macadamia, Olive, Sunflower and Coconut (when liquefied). They are all suitable for use on their own but also work synergistically when combined. If designing your own unique massage oil combination, it is important to consider incorporating an anti-oxidant to improve the shelf life of the product. Whilst many oils are stable on their own, once they are combined there is potential for them to be more prone to oxidation. Adding an anti-oxidant such as natural Vitamin E will not only protect the massage oil from rancidity but also have the added benefit of improving the skin tone of your client. Choosing your ideal massage oil To help you make a quick and easy selection of oils for your clinic or practice, Sydney Essential Oil Co. offers a range of ready-to-use massage oils that we have designed with a variety of benefits you may require. The chart opposite can help you make your selection. Further to this selection, we also offer a range of pre-blended massage oils containing essential oils. Each has been blended to provide aroma-therapeutic benefits suited to specific applications, such as sports or relaxation massage. Further Alternatives to Oils Oils are not the only options available to the massage practitioner. There will be occasions when the client s complexion has special needs or the massage technique being used requires more grip. A balm base provides a thicker consistency with extra protective properties to the skin and is suitable for use in massage once gently warmed and softened. A light lotion base is also an appropriate alternative when the desired result is to minimise post-massage residual oil. Both balm and lotion bases can be enhanced by adding essential oils and offer you the opportunity to create an exclusive treatment for each individual client. For more information on our massage products, please contact our sales team today on Or for a selection of massage blend formulations, please see the Resources page online at

15 incorporating an anti-oxidant to improve the shelf life of the product. Massage Oil Benefits Ingredients Original Massage Blend Smooth texture. Good slip. Rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins. Low odour. Highly stable. Sweet Almond, Sunflower, Soya Bean, Vitamin E & Rosemary Leaf Extract Everyday Lite Massage Blend Light consistency. Silky texture. Nut-free. Ideal for use in warmer climates. Grapeseed, Fractionated Coconut, Jojoba Virgin, Vitamin E & Rosemary Leaf Extract Luxury Massage Blend Rich texture. Nourishing to the skin. Promotes supple complexion. Offers protective properties. Jojoba Virgin, Sunflower, Evening Primrose, Apricot Kernel, Vitamin E & Rosemary Leaf Extract Practitioner s Choice Massage Blend Water dispersible thus minimising residual odour or stains on towels. Smooth texture. Rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins. High Oleic Sunflower, Sweet Almond, Capric-caprylic triglyceride, Polysorbate 85 (oil dispersant) & Vitamin E Organic Massage oil 100% Organic ACO Smooth texture. Good slip. High in vitamins A & E. Moisturising & emollient properties. Good stability. Certified Organic Jojoba, Sunflower & Sweet Almond Organic Easy-Glide Massage oil 100% Organic ACO Light consistency. Promotes skin elasticity. Easy absorption. Good stability. Certified Organic Sunflower, Camellia, Jojoba & Sweet Almond Organic Luxury Massage oil 100% Organic ACO Rich texture. High in essential fatty acids. Skin regenerating properties. Smoothes & softens skin. Certified Organic Safflower, Rose Hip, Evening Primrose & Olive 15

16 In Australia, cosmetic products do not have to be submitted to any government agency for approval. However, to start supplying and marketing your cosmetic product in Australia you are required to address the following points: 1Are the ingredients ok? The ingredients in your product must be acceptable for a cosmetic product. This means that they need to be included on the Australian Inventory of Chemical Substances (AICS). The AICS is a chemical ingredient database available on the internet which you can search to check if your ingredients are ok: If an ingredient is NOT on the AICS, the options available to you depend on the quantity of the ingredient in your product. For low volumes you can apply for exemption. For higher volumes, you may need to submit a notification in the form of a permit or certificate. NICNAS have different permit notification and certificate notification categories and the category you use for your ingredient will depend on: The type of chemical; The amount of the chemical being used; How the chemical is being used; and The period of use that you require. Do I have all the right information on my product label? There is a guide produced by the ACCC (Australian Competition & Consumer Commission) which provides an overview of the mandatory requirements for cosmetics and toiletries. 162 This is a great resource: itemid/971654/fromitemid/971652#toc3 >

17 sme forum Addressing Australian Regulations for cosmetics & personal care products Top tips to follow when developing your range. Spring clean your skin: after the cold winter months your skin is ready to be renewed. Cleansing, exfoliating and moisturising will enliven your complexion and highlight its natural glow.

18 Important things to include on your label: Product name Directions for use A company street address A list of ingredients names, written in English or INCI (International Nomenclature of Chemical Ingredients) formatted in descending order calculated by mass or volume Warning statements (if required) Country of origin (only if your product is made overseas) Quantity/Units of the product needs to be included e.g. 100mL or 8.5g. 3 The inclusion of batch numbers and expiry dates is not mandatory for cosmetic products but it is good practice to include these on your product label. Are my product claims cosmetic? The claims you make on cosmetic product labels and packaging must be cosmetic claims only. For example, cosmetic products can really only talk about having a benefit to the top layer of your skin (the epidermis). Product claims which talk about a benefit to the skin at a deeper level could be viewed as therapeutic and it is important that you don t make a therapeutic claim for a cosmetic product as your product may be classified as an illegal medicine. We would recommend using the following two reference documents to assist you in determining if a cosmetic claim is acceptable: NICNAS Cosmetic Guidelines 2007: current_issues/cosmetics/cosmetic_guidelines_revised_pdf.pdf NCCTG cosmetic claims guidelines: Whilst this second document is a historical reference document it is useful in helping you word your claims so that they are cosmetic. 18

19 sme forum The claims you make on cosmetic product labels and packaging must be cosmetic claims only. 4What do I need to do to advertise my product? Unfortunately, there is no one piece of legislation covering cosmetic product advertising. However the following agencies may assess your advertising to ensure it complies: Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC) National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) Or seek the services of a regulatory affairs consultant. In addition, there is no formal approval required prior to advertising your product, so we recommend you just make sure: Your advertisements contain only cosmetic claims All claims should be substantiated Product comparisons should be fair and balanced Product testimonials should only discuss your product s benefits as a cosmetic and be fair and balanced Product comparisons should not be made about products of different categories, i.e. shampoos should not be compared with exfoliant scrubs And finally a reminder, that in Australia, due to the incidence of melanoma, primary sunscreens with a claimed SPF rating greater than SPF 15 are regulated as medicines and not as cosmetics. 1 By Robert Forbes & Associates. Robert Forbes & Associates is a regulatory and technical consulting firm with over 18 years experience in the complementary medicine, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and personal care industries. The company offers professional services to Australian and New Zealand clients and are available to field your enquiry today. Visit their website or phone or rfaadmin@robert-forbes.com 19

20 news Fresh addition to our range A cross species to expand your essential oil collection. Lavandin Super oil 100% Organic ACO We are excited to announce the addition of Certified Organic Lavandin Super essential oil to our range, our first organic Lavandula Angustifolia x Latifolia. This new Lavandin differs from its Lavender cousin in both constituent specification and aromatic profile. The sweet, fresh scent will clearly remind you of Lavender. However, the Lavandin s aromatic note is slightly higher and the oil will synergise as a top note in your blends rather than a middle. Lavandin was first developed as a hybrid of Lavender True and Lavender Spike. It is a more resilient plant than both individual species and grows much larger in size. It has a strong woody stem with soft grey to blue coloured flowers. Prolific growth has enabled the plant to be cultivated on a wide scale and its commercial popularity is largely due to its ample availability. Lavandin offers a considerably higher yield of essential oil through steam distillation extraction, almost twice that of true lavender, thus making it a more economical option for the cosmetics, soap, perfumery and detergent industries. Aromatherapeutically, Lavandin retains many of the same characteristics as Lavender. Though, it is considered to be more refreshing than relaxing, as is commonly associated with this collection of species. In a massage blend, it will offer relief from muscular rigidity or general aches and pains and is useful in minimising discomfort from rheumatic conditions or stiff joints. Lavandin oil is also noted for supporting the respiratory system, as its expectorant properties can help reduce phlegm build up whilst easing coughs, colds and flu symptoms. In cosmetics, Lavandin oil is noted for its ability to reduce the appearance of stretch marks and scars. It promotes skin healing and encourages new cellular growth making it an ideal inclusion in cream, lotion and body butter formulations. The cleansing properties of Lavandin are also useful in cosmetic applications. Teenage skincare products benefit from the inclusion of this gentle yet purifying oil. Lavandin s fresh aromatic note blends well with a range of citrus oils along with other floral tones. Why not try it today? Available in sizes from 25mL to bulk, stock is on shelf now and our Customer Service and Sales team is ready to take your enquiries. Alternatively please visit and click on Essential Oils for more information. 1 20

21 Lavandin Super oil 100% Organic ACO; an excellent inclusion in a spring time facial cleanser, with beneficial properties that help unclog pores and reduce breakouts. For a great cleanser formulation visit our Resources section online at

22 product specification Product Botanical Name: Origin: Appearance: Colour: Odour: Plant part used: Extraction method: Mandarin Australian Oil Citrus reticulata Australian Clear, mobile flowing liquid Orange to deep orange brown Characteristic mandarin citrus Fruit peel Cold Press Physio-chemical properties Specific Gravity at 20ºC: Refractive Index at 20ºC: Optical Rotation at 20ºC: º to º Flash Point: 48ºC in closed cup Oil Components typical Analysis d-limonene: Min. 80% Myrcene: Trace 5% Other Information Packaging: as required Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. For more information, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co

23 formulation Fresh Sunlight Lotion Performance: soft, light, easily absorbed, offers delicate moisturising properties. Appearance: smooth consistency, light yellow emulsion. Aroma: gentle, fresh, mild citrus aroma with tangy undertones. Stability: expected shelf life 18 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: daily use light body moisturiser for all skin types. Phase Raw Material % w/w A Orange Blossom infused water 80 B Emulsifying Wax 4.5 Sunflower oil 4 Grapeseed oil 3.5 C Vitamin E natural 1 Mandarin Australian essential oil 1.15 Grapefruit White essential oil 0.7 Vanilla Oleoresin 0.6 Neroli Italy essential oil 0.05 D Marsh Mallow extract certified organic 2 Papaya extract certified organic 2 Propylene glycol and diazolidinyl urea and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate % w/w Method of Manufacture 1. Heat Phase A to 70 C maximum. 2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70 C maximum. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and emulsify for 5 minutes. Continue stirring. 4. When emulsion has cooled to 35 C, add Phase C and emulsify for 1-3 minutes. 5. Add all ingredients from Phase D while stirring constantly. Emulsify for 1-3 minutes. 6. When cool, pour off. For ingredients, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof. 23

24 Sydney Essential Oil Co Pty Ltd ABN Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: F: E: sales@seoc.com.au Order on-line Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Copyright 2011 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of-Custody certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view on-line. If you d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.