discover the happy aroma and vibrant colour of sweet orange oil from Australia labelling with confidence enrich your skin with natural butters &

Transcription

1 discover the happy aroma and vibrant colour of sweet orange oil from Australia labelling with confidence enrich your skin with natural butters & waxes

2 this issue spring edition 2010 With the arrival of Spring we welcome the new season and embrace the fresh change. Similarly, here at the Sydney Essential Oil Co. we have undertaken a change within the marketing team and I am humbled by the opportunity to become the new editor of Oily. I am eager to uphold the quality of the past 9 editions and hope that you enjoy reading my first issue as much as I enjoyed writing it. In this issue, our Harvest story focuses on the wonderful Australian Sweet Orange essential oil. We follow its path from the orchard to the bottle and discover the unique characteristics of this truly Australian product. Natural butters and waxes have also been investigated and we are sure you ll be keen to include a selection of them in your next phase of product experimentation and development. Plus, for those of you who are ready to take the final steps towards launching your product to market, we have compiled a summary of the regulations that govern cosmetic packaging and labelling. Our top tips will offer you a good guide. Happy reading! Lucille Wilson, Editor

3 Spring cover: Apricot kernel Prunus armeniaca Cold-pressed apricot kernel oil is highly nourishing and offers excellent emollient properties. Rich in vitamin A and oleic acid, it helps reduce rough or cracking skin. It is ideal for massage as it provides good slip. And is a great addition to eye or neck lotions due to its occlusive benefits. Available in Certified Organic or Conventional. Visit for more information. 04 Harvest: Australian Sweet Orange Essential Oil Uniquely vibrant in colour and aromatically compelling. 12 SME Forum: How do you know you ve labelled your product correctly? Important tips for manufacturers. 16 Up Close: Natural Butters & Waxes Rich ingredients to enhance your products. 20 News: The latest happenings at SEOC Base products return upcoming events. 22 Product Specification: Sweet Orange Oil Specification for manufacturers. 23 Formulation: Gentle Face Exfoliating Cream Featuring Australian Sweet Orange Oil.

4 harvest Aroma-therapeutic zest Discover the happy aroma and vibrant colour of sweet orange oil from Australia. The vibrant colour of Australian oranges is the envy of citrus growers around the world. So much so, around 40% of our total output is exported to some of the major orange growing nations. Globally, the annual orange harvest is estimated in the tens of millions of tonnes. Australia s yield of 280,000 tonnes may be small in comparison to that of the USA and Brazil, but the quality of Australian produce is still highly respected. However, earlier in our production history, it was thought by some of our international competitors, that the vibrancy of colour was achieved by modifying the fruits with natural dyes. This, of course, is not the case. Australia is just fortunate to have extremely favourable soils and climatic conditions in which to grow the Citrus Sinensis species. > 4

5 The Navel orange fruit season begins in May and continues through to the beginning of September. Opposite: The ripe outer layer is bursting with aromtatic essential oil. 5

6 harvest Whilst the fruit is primarily harvested for the food industry, the vivid orange colour is also a key characteristic of the Australian sweet orange essential oil. This, along with its wonderful citrus aroma, sets it apart from other oils and makes it extremely appealing both locally and in overseas markets. The Orange Tree The orange tree s success comes from a climate that offers warm to hot temperatures throughout the day and cooler temperatures at night. The species prefers regular rainfall but can also be prolific when fully irrigated. Seedlings are planted in rows roughly two metres apart, allowing for full tree growth and optimal fruit harvesting. Fruit first starts to bear after 2-3 years and commercial harvesting commences when full maturity is reached at approximately the 7 year point. When grown in the best conditions, some orange trees can even live up to 50 years, continually flowering and fruiting every season. The Citrus Sinensis species has a number of varieties, the main being Navel and Valencia. Both of these are grown throughout Australia, but the Sweet Orange Essential Oil is only derived from the Navel orange. Navels have no seeds and are also sold to both the whole-fruit market and the juice industry, offering farmers a higher return from 3 industry sectors rather than the Valencia, which is primarily used for juicing. This versatility caused many citrus growers to change their crops from Valencia to Navel to increase the overall profitability of their orchards during the recent years of drought. > Opposite clockwise from top left: Trees are grown in rows and given plenty of room for full development. Once mature, a tree can reach over 3 metres in height. A picker can collect around three tonnes of fruit a day, filling large collection crates as they go. Pickers climb ladders to reach the ripe fruit at the tops of the trees. 6

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9 harvest The Orange Harvest Small white orange-flowers appear in October during the fresh Spring months and develop into fruit by May. The fruiting season continues all the way through Winter and finishes around the beginning of September. The fruit is hand-picked by a diverse and transient labour force. Whilst some locals do get involved, the industry heavily relies on travelling fruit pickers, who trek across the country from region to region, following the different harvesting seasons. Community support is crucial for the industry to maintain its success and ensure the harvest cycle is uninterrupted, and many local hostels provide private bus services to transport pickers to and from the orchards. A day in the life of an orchard picker involves climbing up and down ladders picking only the ripest fruit, and loading and emptying their canvas pouches as they go. Picking is a speedy process and a skilled worker can collect an impressive three tonnes a day. The pickers empty their pouches into large plastic bins that are located throughout the rows of trees. Once full, these containers are combined into open truck trailers and sent to the packing sheds to be processed. Inspection of the harvest is undertaken at the packing sheds. The fruit is sorted and graded for whole fruit sale, juicing and/or essential oil extraction. Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply partner receives their fruit directly from the packing sheds and then prepares them to commence processing the essential oil. > Opposite clockwise from top left: After being sorted at a packing shed, the oranges are shipped in large open truck trailers for the next phase of essential oil production. Oranges are collected in storage cages waiting for processing. A conveyor belt carries the fruit through a series of cleaning stages prior to essential oil extraction. 9

10 HARVEST The Essential Oil Mechanical extractors separate the fruit in preparation for juicing and essential oil extraction. The essential oil is extracted from the flavedo, or outer part of the orange peel. To facilitate this, the thin part of the peel is removed from the rest of the orange. The remaining orange goes for juicing, and the peel is then mixed and crushed with water in a cold press. This oil and water mixture is then processed through a hydrocyclone and centrifuge to separate the essential oil from the water molecules, and finally out through a polisher refined centrifuge to ensure absolute purity of the oil. It takes approximately 500kg of fruit to produce 1kg of essential oil from the peel. The essential oil is an important bi-product and provides a complementary source of revenue to the fruit growing industry. From that 500kg of fruit, 250L of juice will be extracted and the left over remnants is used as a stock feed supplement which results in zero wastage. It is even said that the orange waste improves the milk yield of dairy cows. Australia s sweet orange essential oil is a favourite in natural cosmetic formulations. Its bright vibrant colour and sweet, zesty fresh aroma is cheerful and friendly and appeals to both men and women. When added to a body butter or cream it can improve muscle tone and the appearance of healthy skin. When incorporated into a cleanser, it may reduce irritations and redness in dry or acne prone complexions. It s valuable in anti-ageing serums or eye lotions, as it will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And when added to a vaporiser or the bath, it will also help calm overexcited states and promote a good night s sleep. We invite you to try our Australian Sweet Orange Essential Oil today! 1 10

11 Clockwise from top left: The extractor removes a thin layer of peel from the orange for essential oil production. The remaining orange is used to produce the juice. A centrifuge separates the essential oil from the water that is collected during the cold pressing extraction method. The vibrant orange colour, along with the bright citrus aroma are key Youthful characteristics Radiance of Daily Australia s Face Cream formulation on page 23 features Rose Hip sweet oil as it orange provides essential anti-ageing oil. benefits & produces a rich luscious consistency. 11

12 sme forum Your natural cosmetic product has been developed. You have researched the ingredients and created or expanded your brand. You ve invested valuable time in finding suitable packaging and developing a label design brief. But how can you be sure you have packaged and labelled your product correctly? Australian regulations for cosmetic packaging and labelling can be confusing, as several governing bodies have varying requirements you must follow. To help you navigate more easily, we ve compiled a check list of the important key points to note. One: In Australia we use the metric system of measurement. It may seem straightforward but keep in mind the basics, be sure products for sale in the Australian market are not labelled with pounds or pints. Two: Different categories of products are measured and labelled in 2different ways. Solid products, semi-solids and powders are measured by mass (weight). Whereas liquids are measured by volume. Products measured by mass are labelled using kilograms (kg), grams (g) or milligrams (mg). Grams are suitable when the nett weight is less than one kilogram and milligrams are suitable when weight is less than one gram. Products measured by volume are labelled in litres (L) or millilitres (ml). Millilitres are used when the product is less than one litre. In both cases, these measurements are exclusive of the packaging. > Is your product Ten tips you can follow with confidence.

13 Spring body butter: After the long winter your skin will love a nourishing body butter. Rehydrate and smooth fine lines with regular moisturisation. Try the Nourishing Dry Skin Body Butter recipe found in the Formulations section of our website labelled correctly? 13

14 3 456 In order for a product to be labelled Product of Australia, it must include Three: When you fill your packaging, the amount of product inside must be equal to or greater than the size printed on the label. Some international policies allow a tolerance, but Australian regulations clearly indicate that if the product states 100g, the minimum measure must be 100g. This is important to note if your product can potentially lose weight over time, for example through water evaporation, as you will need to compensate at the point of fill. Four: Ingredient lists must be clearly visible and legible on the container or attached directly to the product or its display unit if there is no outer packaging. The ingredients must be stated as an English name, Latin Botanical name or the relevant INCI name. Trade names may not be used. Ingredients in concentration of 1% or more must be listed in descending order by volume. Followed by ingredients of less than 1% that may be listed in any order. Five: Your full company name and street address must be clearly labelled. A PO Box is not acceptable. Imported products must also carry an Australian street address. This may be achieved either through repackaging or over-labelling with the local distributor s details. Six: In order for a product to be labelled Product of Australia, it must include 100% Australian content. This means that every ingredient must be from Australia. Whereas, the label claim of Made in Australia can be utilised when the product has undergone significant alteration and the majority of the manufacturing costs have occurred in Australia. Of the two, the latter is more commonly achievable as many ingredients are often sourced internationally. 14

15 sme forum 100% Australian content. This means every ingredient must be Australian. Seven: Packaging selection must be appropriate to the size of the product. Using packaging that misleads the consumer by giving the appearance of a larger size is not permitted. Caps, thickness of packaging material and gift packs are all covered by this legislation to ensure fair practices. This should be taken into consideration when designing and sourcing. Eight: Compatibility of your packaging with the product also requires consideration. A product may travel through varying temperatures and environments during transportation and storage, all of which can affect its stability. The manufacturer must be confident that the chosen packaging is capable of withstanding these variations in the market in which it is to be sold and that the product will maintain its optimal state for use by the end-consumer along with choosing recyclable materials, you will minimise the Nine: Expiry dates and batch numbers are not mandatory. However, they are certainly a recommended inclusion to support consumer confidence and safe use of your product. Ten: A final consideration in your packaging development should be the waste that results when your product is gifted or consumed. By keeping pack sizes and non-essential packaging to a minimum, environmental impact of your product and encourage a positive perception of your brand. 1 This article is a guideline only, it does not reflect the full content of the relevant regulations. For full information on cosmetic labelling regulations in Australia go to and For full information on packaging go to or We recommend checking periodically for published updates. 15

16 up close &The luxury of butters the richness of waxes The inclusion of natural butters and waxes in your formulations are desirable if not essential in creating great textures and for enhancing skin nutrition and moisturisation. Butters and waxes both belong to the broader category of ingredients, oils. Yet they are quite different in chemical composition and obtained via varying methods of extraction. Here we will review some of the more popular butters and waxes utilised in natural cosmetics. Exotic Butters Sourced from exotic plants and exotic locations around the world, natural butters are organic compounds containing carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. They are similar in composition to carrier oils, in that the carbon and hydrogen molecules form fatty acids that link together with glycerine to create triglycerides. And whilst all butters have high triglyceride contents, each unique fatty acid profile determines their distinctive qualities and benefits. Derived from nuts, seeds and fruit kernels, natural butters are rich in nutrients and are suitable for many cosmetic applications such as balms, soaps, creams or body butters. They are typically solid at room temperature and are highly stable against oxidisation. Cocoa Butter (Theobrama cacao) The Cacao tree produces fruit throughout the entire year which enables a continual > Opposite left to right: Shea nut butter, beeswax and cocoa butter. Here at Sydney Essential Oil Co., we offer a selection of Certified Organic and conventional butters and waxes. Please refer to the current version of The List for details or contact our customer service team for further assistance. 16

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18 up close harvest of cocoa butter. Beans sourced from the fruit are fermented, sun-dried, roasted and shelled to remove the cacao kernel which is finally pressed to produce cocoa liquor. The thick brown cocoa liquor is processed further to extract the cocoa butter and leave cocoa solids which are later used to produce cocoa powder. Cocoa butter is high in Oleic acid (C18:1) and Stearic acid (C18) which provide excellent moisturising, emollient and thickening properties. Plus the elevated Palmitic acid (C16) levels make it ideal for inclusion in natural soap formulations as it will harden the bar and enrich the finished product. Shea Nut Butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Sourced from the nut of the native African tree, shea nut butter also contains high levels of Oleic acid and Stearic acid. It is also rich in vitamins A and E and offers exceptional moisturising and protective properties along with anti-inflammatory benefits. It penetrates the skin easily and results in a softer, plumper texture. The phenolic compounds found in shea nut butter provide anti-ageing benefits and the phytosterol, triterpene and cinnamic acid offer natural sun protection. Certified Organic and commercial grade shea nut butters are processed by different methods. The organic grade is produced with manual processing techniques. The shea nuts are collected by hand, and then dried, roasted and pressed using traditional methods. It is then steamed to remove impurities; leaving a lightly refined creamy butter with high levels of nutrients and a natural nutty aroma. Commercial shea nut butter is graded according to quality. Grade A is the highest, premium grade and extracted through natural processes. Grade B is more refined, and grade C is highly refined, potentially using chemicals solvents such as hexane. Grade F is recognised as the poorest quality butter. Mango Butter (Mangifera indica) The kernel of the mango fruit seed is expeller pressed to produce soft semi-solid mango butter. The butter is then refined, deodorised and fractionated to produce a commercially viable ingredient. Mango butter contains high levels of Oleic acid and Stearic acid similar to both cocoa and shea nut butters and is highly moisturising to the skin. It also contains phytosterols and triterpenes which give mild sun protection properties. Mango butter is softening and soothing on the skin, and is recognised as an excellent addition to a body-care product. Butter Melting Points Butters have relatively low melting points, and are thus flexible to include in formulations. Shea & mango will actually melt on contact with the skin, thus enabling direct skin application for cases of severe skin dehydration. Cocoa butter: C Shea nut butter: C Mango butter: C 18

19 Natural Waxes The chemical composition of waxes differs from that of butters and oils. Waxes are actually esters made from fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and they also contain other components such as hydrocarbon resins which do not respond to chemical reactions. Waxes are extremely stable and are not affected by oxidisation. Derived from plants, animals and minerals, waxes have been used in cosmetics for hundreds of years. In fact, ancient Egyptians utilised beeswax in early make up and haircare as they discovered it offered protective, softening and humectant properties. Beeswax The building of waxy honeycomb is undertaken by bees during their honey production cycle. Beeswax is extracted from the comb after the honey has been processed and is cleaned and refined accordingly to the desired grade. The main constituents of beeswax are Palmitic acid (C16) and Cerotic acid (C26). These long chain fatty acids, with high numbers of carbon atoms, give beeswax its solidity and strength. When added to a cosmetic product, beeswax will thicken and enrich the product, whilst also offering some emulsification. Through vigorous dispersion of the beeswax in the manufacturing process, the long chain fatty acids are broken and in turn attract water molecules. When utilised in conjunction with other natural emulsifiers, beeswax can provide a strong emulsion consistency. Carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera) Carnauba is derived from a palm-like tree, Copernica Cerifera, and is recognised as the hardest natural commercial wax available. The wax is naturally secreted when the leaves are sun dried and it is collected through a mechanical scraping process. A key component of carnauba wax is Lignoceric acid (C24). The esters formed between this fatty acid, fatty alcohols and hydrocarbons account for its extraordinary hardness and high melting point. The remarkable composition of this wax is unique and makes it a valuable ingredient for many cosmetic products. Its significant gloss, shaping integrity and skin softening properties are ideal for lipsticks and other lip care formulations. Wax Melting Points In comparison to butters, waxes have high melting points and also relatively quick re-set or hardening points. When utilising them in formulations, this should be taken into account in the method of manufacture. Beeswax: Carnauba wax: C C In conclusion Butters and waxes contribute valuable nutrients to body-care formulations. Their addition to a product range will ensure excellent skincare results. 1 19

20 news Research & development Our updated and improved base products have made a welcomed return. And we invite you to visit us in Tokyo or Hong Kong at a forthcoming event. Bases are back in stock Thank you for your patience! Please accept our sincerest apologies for the manufacturing delays and extended out of stock period for the Sydney Essential Oil Co. Premium and Paraben-free base products. These products have undergone extensive research and development for performance, product stability and consistency and we are thrilled with the results of improved texture, input tolerances and performance on the skin. So, we are pleased to be able to offer you our full selection of Creams, Lotions and Body Butters once again. Stock is on shelf now and our Customer Service team is ready to take your enquiries. Alternatively please visit www. seoc.com.au and click on Base Products for more information. Events September 21-23, 2010 BioFach Japan Tokyo Big Sight BioFach is Japan s only organic trade show presenting the highest quality organic products from around the world. This exhibition is an excellent platform for wholesalers, retailers, importers and manufacturers to connect with the Japanese market. This year, Sydney Essential Oil Co. will be represented as a co-exhibitor with Australian Certified Organic (ACO) at booth no We invite you to pre-arrange an appointment to meet our sales team by contacting iris.chau@seoc.com.au November 10-12, 2010 Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Cosmoprof Asia is recognised as the leading trade event for suppliers and buyers within the beauty, spa and health industry. Featuring over 1,400 exhibitors from 39 different countries and regions, the expo will attract 40,000 visitors from over 100 countries. Sydney Essential Oil Co. will be exhibiting. Please visit us at booth no. 3E-L2D. We invite you to pre-arrange an appointment to meet our sales team by contacting iris.chau@seoc.com.au 1 20

21 Creams and lotions are a part of everyday life. Customising your own products is simple if you start with a good quality base product. As a guide add 1-2% of your favourite aromatic essential oil blend to create your own unique body lotion. Visit www. seoc.com.au for more formulation ideas. 21

22 product specification Product Botanical Name: Origin: Appearance: Colour: Odour: Plant part used: Extraction method: Sweet Orange Oil Citrus sinensis Australian Clear, mobile liquid Orange to deep orange brown Characteristic orange citrus Fruit peel Cold Press Physio-chemical properties Specific 20 C: Optical 20 C: + 90 to Refractive 20 C: Flash Point: 48 C in closed cup Oil Components Typical Analysis d-limonene: min. 93% Myrcene: min. 2% Aldehyde: min. 1.2% Other Information Packaging: as required For more information, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co

23 formulation Gentle Face Exfoliating Cream Performance: light exfoliation for face, gently removes dead skin cells. Appearance: pale coloured cream with visible white granules. Aroma: soft, bright, sweet citrus aroma. Stability: expected shelf life 18 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: daily weekly to keep skin looking fresh, suits all skin types. Phase Raw Material % w/w A Demineralised water B Emulsifying Wax 5 Apricot Kernel oil 4 Macadamia Virgin oil 3 C Vitamin E natural 1 Orange Sweet Australian essential oil 0.2 3% Jasmine in Jojoba oil certified organic 0.15 Rosewood essential oil 0.1 D Bilberry Leaf extract certified organic 1.5 Echinacea extract certified organic 1.5 Propylene glycol and diazolidinyl urea 0.5 and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate E Jojoba Wax beads 4 100% w/w Method of Manufacture 1. Heat Phase A to 70 C maximum. 2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70 C maximum. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and emulsify for 5 minutes. 4. When emulsion has cooled to 35 C, add Phase C and emulsify for 1-3 minutes. 5. Add all ingredients from Phase D while stirring constantly. Emulsify for 1-3 minutes. 6. Add Phase E and mix through thoroughly. When cool, pour off. For ingredients, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof. 23

24 Sydney Essential Oil Co Pty Ltd ABN Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: F: E: sales@seoc.com.au Order on-line Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Copyright 2010 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of-Custody accredited printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view on-line. If you d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.