whitening product safety sustainability polyethylene alternatives anti-ageing event import promotion 2016 english

Transcription

1 01/16 Volume 142 Thannhausen, February 17, english sustainability The Challenge of Sustainable Natural Waxes Green Surfactants: Are Excellent Performance and Low Ecological Impact a Contradiction? whitening D Cosmix Range of Cosmeceutical Blends polyethylene alternatives Hydrated Silica Particles import promotion Apricot Kernel Oil from Kyrgyzstan anti-ageing The Ideal Cosmetic Ally for the Cold event IMPAG Cosmetic Seminar 2015 product safety Microbiological Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Products in Practice

2 personal care anti-ageing The Ideal Cosmetic Ally for the Cold J. Comas, C. Davi, E. Cañadas, N. Almiñana, R. Delgado * abstract With temperatures reaching below -40 C, and barely any solar light for six months of the year, the Antarctic is one of the regions with the hardest conditions for organisms to live in. Surprisingly, however, the Antarctic has a very diverse microbial ecosystem that is able to resist such extreme cold conditions [1]. These microorganisms have been particularly studied for their ability to produce compounds with beneficial properties for the human skin, which can offer interesting additional value to cosmetic formulations. Introduction Effects of the Cold on the Skin Evidence shows that, during winter time, or even just with temporary exposure to cold weather, the skin s appearance deteriorates as a consequence of a scalier and duller complexion and lower hydration levels. Irritation from the cold also prompts other responses, such as skin redness. Acting on different mechanisms, skin care products become a useful tool to address these unwanted effects on the skin by restoring its normal appearance. Cryoprotection is one of the main methods of improving skin functionality in cold weather. This property consists of preventing the water found naturally on the skin from freezing at very low temperatures. By avoiding ice formation, the lipid bilayer is well preserved and overall final skin functionality and complexion are improved. In developing the best cosmetic active ingredients to address such challenges, factors such as the way organisms adapt to extremely cold environments are critical. Adapting to Antarctic Conditions To survive in extremely cold conditions, such as those found in the Antarctic, organisms have to adjust by optimising their metabolic processes. This is the case for extremophiles, which are single-cell prokaryotic organisms able to resist extreme conditions that would be extremely detrimental to other species. Pseudoalteromonas strains are some of the most frequently isolated cold-loving extremophiles, able to tolerate very low temperatures. They are also known to produce biologically active substances that have been particularly studied for their remarkable cosmetic benefits [2, 3]. Thus, the skin care sector can take advantage of such properties for additional skinimprovement effects in final product formulations. ANTARCTICINE marine ingredient (INCI name: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) is a good example of an extracellular polymeric substance (ECPS) obtained from a marine extremophile strain with multiple skin care applications. Experimental Cryoprotective Activity Cryoprotective activity in the lipid bilayer was tested by frosting and defrosting carboxyfluorescein (CF) liposomes with 1 % Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract. When the bilayer became unstable, encapsulated CF was released from the liposomes and fluorescence levels were increased. The active ingredient showed a protective effect on the bilayer from the freezing process by obtaining fluorescence values similar to those of the non-frozen liposomes (Fig. 1) Fig. 1 Liposome protection against frosting by the active ingredient 20 sofwjournal /16

3 anti-ageing personal care Another study was performed with solutions of 0.06 %, 0.6 %, 2.4 %, 5 % and 10 % Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract in pure water to evaluate the ingredient s cryoprotective properties. Bovine serum albumin (BSA) was used as a control. Each sample was cooled and kept at -40 C for 10 minutes. The melting behaviour of the water was evaluated by heating up the samples at the same rate of 5 C/min. Results showed that the melting point decreased by almost 2 C in a dose-response manner with the active ingredient, compared with 0.5 C for the control. This study demonstrates the capacity of the ingredient to decrease the freezing point of water, which in turn would help protect the skin from cold temperatures. Restructuring Effect The crystal violet dye elution method (CVDE) was used to evaluate the induction of cell adhesion on human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). The substrates were coated with 1 ng/ml and 1 mg/ml Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract on a support, the cells were then added, and a wash was performed. Bioadhesion was measured by determining the remaining cells on the surface. As for the control of cellular substrate adhesion, substrate coated with 20 µg/ml of type I collagen was used. Results showed that HDF cells grown on 1 mg/ml of the marine ingredient increased cellular adhesion by 125 % after 5 hours. Separately, human keratinocytes (HEK) were used to determine cell growth through a CVDE method. By using culture medium in presence of 1 ng/ml of the active ingredient, it was found that Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract increased the growth of HEK cells up to 36.2 % after 48 hours. Collagen and Elastin Synthesis Induction An enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) was used to evaluate the induction of type I collagen on HDF by the active ingredient. Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract was found to induce protein synthesis by 34.0 % at a concentration of 0.1 mg/ml. Type IV collagen was studied through a dot blot method on a 3D skin model treated with 1 mg/ml of a cream containing 5 % of the active ingredient, and was further detected by immunochemistry. Type IV collagen was increased by 36 % and 81 % after 7 and 15 days respectively. 1mg/mL of a cream containing 5 % of a solution with Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract was used to evaluate the induction in elastin in a 3D skin model. The protein was extracted and detected by a western-blot assay, resulting in an increase in elastin of 16 % and 31 % after 7 and 15 days of the active treatment, respectively. confocal microscopy. After 15 and 30 days, the imprints showed a reduction in roughness of 33.4 % and 44.5 % respectively. Efficacy Against Wrinkles and Cold Weather The cryoprotective and anti-ageing efficacy of the active ingredient was evaluated on 20 female volunteers, with wrinkles and dry facial skin, who had to spend an hour a day outdoors under cold weather conditions. They had to apply a cream containing 1 % of a solution with the active ingredient on one hemi-face and a placebo cream on the other, for 30 days. The parameters evaluated after 7, 15 and 30 days were the following: Hydration: Moisturisation was evaluated by means of a corneometer, resulting in an increase in water of 13.5 % after 15 days and 14.8 % after 30 days (Fig. 2). Fig. 2 Improvement in skin moisturisation (**p<0.01;***p<0.001) Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): The TEWL levels were evaluated through a tewameter after 7, 15 and 30 days. The marine ingredient decreased the transepidermal water loss by 14.7 % at the end of the treatment (Fig. 3). Clinical Skin Roughness Evaluation A cream with 5 % of a solution with Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract was applied around the eyes of 10 female volunteers, twice a day, for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained from the treated areas and analysed through Fig. 3 Effect of the active ingredient on the TEWL levels on the skin (***p<0.001) 01/ sofwjournal 21

4 personal care anti-ageing Elasticity and Firmness: A cutometer was used to evaluate skin firmness and elasticity by measuring the R0 and R2 parameters corresponding to maximal deformation and overall elasticity of the skin respectively. After the treatment, a decrease in R0 of 9.2 % and an increase in R2 of 6.1 % were obtained, demonstrating an increase in both firmness and elasticity (Fig. 4). Erythema Index: Reddening of the skin as a result of irritant cold weather was measured by means of a mexameter, obtaining a reduction in erythema index of 4.5 % after 30 days (Fig. 5). Fig. 5 Diminution of redness levels on the skin (*p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001) Fig. 4 Variation of the R0 and R2 parameters (**p<0.01, ***p<0.001) Picture Credits: Subbotina Anna/Fotolia.com powered by Advertisement Robin Jung Tel: Fax: robin.jung@sofw.com Subscription Rahel Schmid Tel: Fax: rahel.schmid@sofw.com Media Information SOFW-Journal Media Data vci@sofw.com Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, Alte Schule Burg, Dorfstrasse 40, Thannhausen, Germany 22 sofwjournal /16

5 anti-ageing personal care Skin Profilometry: A 3D scanner was used to evaluate wrinkle parameters after 30 days of treatment. Results show a reduction in wrinkle depth and volume of 10.6 % and 9.3 % respectively. Digital images were taken in order to support such efficacy (Fig. 6) September days 30 days contact Fig. 6 Digital pictures of a volunteer before and after treatment Conclusions ANTARCTICINE marine ingredient is the ideal candidate to use when trying to protect the skin from cold weather, as well as when seeking a rejuvenating effect. The ingredient has been shown to preserve the lipid bilayer from freezing, while also increasing ECM protein synthesis for a more compact and elastic skin. Clinical studies have also demonstrated its efficacy in protecting against the undesired effects of cold temperatures, while improving skin moisturisation and reducing cutaneous erythema and wrinkles. References [1] Tindall BJ. Prokaryotic diversity in the Antarctic: the tip of the iceberg. Microb Ecol. 47(3): , Júlia Comas Cristina Davi Elena Cañadas Núria Almiñana Raquel Delgado Lipotec S.A.U. Pol. Ind. Camí Ral. Isaac Peral Gavà Spain [2] Bowman JP. Pseudoalteromonas prydzensis sp. nov., a psychrotrophic, halotolerant bacterium form Antarctic sea ice. Int J Syst Bacteriol. 48 Pt 3: , [3] Mikhailov VV, Romanenko LA, Ivanova EP. The genus Alteromonas and related Proteobacteria. The Prokaryotes: a Handbook on the Biology of Bacteria. 6: , ANTARCTICINE is owned by The Lubrizol Corporation The Lubrizol Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Neue Pinakothek Isar Nymphenburg Frauenkirche Bayerischer Landtag Technische Universität Münch ESA Oktoberfest Cosmetics: nnovations- und Gründerzentren Chinesischer Turm Dolce Munich Ludwig-Maximilian-Universität Englischer Garten Lederhose Maximilianeum Hofbräuhaus Botanischer Garten Franz-Josef-Strauss Flughafen Biergarten Deutsches Museum Paulaner Bräu Allianz Arena Siemens Olympiastadion Biotechnologie Tierpark Hellabrunn Science for Beauty EADS Corporate Research Center and Lifestyle Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raum Max-Planck-Gesellschaft BioTech-Region München Deutsches Theate Bayern München Fraunhofer Institut Baxter Deutschland GmbH Helmholtz Zentrum Deutsches Forschungszentrum BMW Forschungs- und Innovationszentrum Forschungszentrum Weihenstephan IFSCC 2018 is organised by the German Society of Cosmetic Chemists (DGK) and supported by SOFW (Verlag für chemische Industrie, H.Ziol kow sky GmbH), a specialised publishing and congress organising company. 01/ sofwjournal 23