INTERVIEWS: YBONE TEXTILE SELİN AKMAN CRISTIAN MURIANNI TUKUTUKUM YUNUS & ELIZA

Transcription

1 20 DENIM NEWS IAN BERRY / BOSSA / ISKO DENIM TALKS KIPAŞ DENİM / KMS METALACCESSORIES 30 VAV TECHNOLOGY / W DENIM 62 TURKISH FASHION FABRICS APRIL 2018 ÇALIK DENIM ERA DENIM AMY LEVERTON LEE COOPER COLIN S FROM PRESIDENT S PEN PINAR TAŞDELEN ENGİN INTERVIEWS: YBONE TEXTILE SELİN AKMAN CRISTIAN MURIANNI TUKUTUKUM YUNUS & ELIZA APRIL 2018 YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY N. 16 Cover design by Piero Turk & Serena Conti

2

3

4 N. 16 Founder In the name of Uludağ Textile Exporters Association (UTIB) Pınar Taşdelen Engin Managing Director Betül Varel Advisory Board Osman Nuri Canik Ali Ay Yusuf Ateş Halil Ersan Özsoy Aslı Türkün Karaçor Mustafa Tezyaparlar Haluk Ogan Place of Management ULUDAG TEXTILE EXPORTERS ASSOCIATION Işıktepe OSB Mah. Kahverengi Cad. No: Nilüfer - Bursa / Turkey Phone: Fax: Web: fuarlar@uib.org.tr Production KALYON MEDYA Publishing Director Betül Varel Publishing Coordinator Ayça Kandemiroğlu Creative Director Çağrı Çankaya Berkay Şahin Editor in Chief Ayça Kandemiroğlu Digital Editor Ali Yurtseven Translations Neslihan Yakut Advertising Sales Director KALYON MEDYA Addres Konak Mh. Lefkoşe Cd. No. 10 D. 14 Ofis Artı İş Merkezi Nilüfer / Bursa Phone: Fax: info@kalyonmedya.com.tr Print Star Matbaa 4 times a year Copyright; All rights reserved. No part of the material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means without written permissions from the publisher. TFF Magazine does not take any responsibility for any written content. We are thankful for his supports for the cover art to fashion designers Piero Turk and Serena Conti

5 CONTENTS

6 PINAR TAŞDELEN ENGİN Charmain Of The Board Of Directors Uludağ Textile Exporters Association 06

7 PRESIDENT S MESSAGE much stronger export 07 We have completed 2017, which we started with the spirit of cooperation through significant achievements, mainly production, employment, and exports. Our country, reaching the highest employment figure in the history of the Republic, completed the year 2017 by exceeding the treshold of 157 billion dollars export. Our textile industry, which takes place among the leading industries of Turkey, has managed to increase its exports by 3 percent especially in a year where the world economy was experiencing great difficulties. Having contributed 8.1 million dolars to country s export last year, our sector, reaching an export of $ 700 million in the first month of 2018 with an increase rate of 13.5% has revived our hopes in attaining new targets. I believe that 2018 will be completed with a much stronger export performance than in previous years. I once again would like to congratulate all of our companies which contributed to the development of our exports. We have superior success in the textile industry, a sector where competition is very high all over the world. Turkey is the largest textile manufacturer of Europe and the 3rd largest apparel supplier of the continent. We are proud of being one of the three countries that export the most denim fabrics to the world. As Turkey, we are the 4th largest exporter of home textiles in the world with approximately $ 3 billion in home textile exports. Our market share in this field is 5 percent. Moreover, getting this share with high-end products is an extraordinary success story. While maintaining our competitive position within the world, our primary goals for our firms to take an active and leading role in new markets. In this context, while developing the R&D capabilities of our companies; design, branding and effective marketing strategies will bring the sector s contribution to the country s economy to a higher level. We will continue to support our companies in the international arena by taking part in the most important fairs of the world textile industry such as Premiere Vision, with the activities of foreign marketing Textile Exporters Association. Our firms that represented our country in the best way in the world until today, will write new success stories with the support we offer, as well as with their production quality and export performance.

8 TEXWORLD PARIS HELD 11/14 February 2018 The Show organized on February 2018 at the Le Bourget. Texworld Paris Show organized by Messe Frankfurt France welcomed 08 Acar Ihr Itl Tekstil Adele Tekstil ADT Global Tekstil Akdoganlar Tekstil Aksoy Tekstil Orme Dokuma Akurun Tekstil Altinsu Tekstil Enerji Arasan Tekstil Arres Tekstil Arseteks Tekstil Asli Tekstil Giyim Etiteks Teknik Dokuma Fabra Tekstil Filetul Tekstil Flokser Tekstil Furteks Dokuma Gamateks Tekstil Gencörme Tekstil Gokhan Tekstil Görenler Tekstil Herboy Örme Sanayi HMK Tekstil Meteks Moda Dokuma Kumas Meterial Kumas Migiboy Tekstil Modapinar Tekstil Muratoglu Tekstil Nara Tekstil Naz Orme Kumas ve Tekstil Ölcerler Tekstil Ordu Tekstil Boya Apre Özcimen Tekstil Özen Mensucat Boya 13,606 visitors, in other words a very stable result compared with February New visitors came from North America (+7%) and the African continent (+26%), led by the countries who are major suppliers for Europe such as Morocco (+25%) and Tunisia ASY Tekstil ATA Kumas Aysan Tekstil Batmaz Tekstil Bayteks BGT Tekstil Ilka Baski Kumas Tekstil Ipektül ve Konfeksiyon Isil Tekstil Joyteks Tekstil Kabul Tekstil Konfeksiyon Karagözlüler Tekstil Pelle Tekstil Pinteks Tekstil Kumas Reisoglu Iplik Mensucat Ridvan Ahmedin Sahin Orme Tekstil Sahsa Tekstil Konfeksiyon (+15%), which came to Le Bourget to carry out their sourcing; in addition there were the emerging markets such as South Bordo Tekstil Botas Nehir Boya Emprime Bozdemir Tekstil Bünyem Tekstil Burc Kumas Tekstil Insaat Depar Deri Plastik Derhan Tekstil Diva Kumascilik Tekstil Karinca Tekstil Kazaroglu Tekstil Kolunsag Muflon Kotonteks Textile Industry Kükrer Tekstil Lale Mefrusat Lami Transfer Larma Tekstil Santana Tekstil Save Tekstil Seçen Tekstil Seray Tekstil SNT Tekstil Soylu Örme Kumascilik Starteks Tekstil Teba Tekstil Africa and Ethiopia, which was the guest of honor this season. The shows remain extremely international with 81% of visitors coming from abroad. EGR Dis Ticaret Ekip Tekstil Er-Ez Dokuma Kumas Tekstil Ersat Tekstil Erteks Grup Tekstil Maiteks Tekstil Marsala Dokuma Masgteks Tekstil Menderes Tekstil Merisa Tekstil Tekboy Tekstil Tekstas Tekstil Termin Tekstil Türkseven Tekstil Vega Tekstil TOP 5: 1 - France 2 - United Kingdom 3 Turkey 4 Spain 5 - Italy

9 TFF Magazine was on display at Press Village of this prestigious Show. Premiere Vision Paris took place 13 to 15 February 2018 at the Paris Nord- Villepinte. PREMIERE VISION PARIS at the heart of fashion 13/15 February ,000 visitors attended the show to discover the collections and new product developments proposed by 1,725 selected exhibiting companies. This season, Première Vision Paris presented 1,725 exhibitors such as spinners, weavers, accessory makers, design studios, tanners and furriers, fashion manufacturers. Companies from 50 countries, they were presenting their latest developments. Professional visitors got latest news about Turkish textile sector by TFF Magazine exhibitors from 50 countries (1.6% increase over last year) attended Premiere Vision Paris. Turkey was represented by 163 leading companies in this important venue. Italy had 657 companies, France 254, the UK 112, Spain 82, Portugal 62, Japan 59, South Korea 45, China 39 and Germany Turkish exhibitors out of 163 Turkish total were from Bursa. The fabric section had 809 exhibitors of which 95 were Turkish exhibitors 30 of which were from Bursa The yarn section had 45 exhibitors in total. 7 exhibitors were Turkish and 2 of them were from Bursa. The leather section had 224 companies of which 14 were from Turkey. The design hall had 216 exhibitors. The accessories hall had 296 exhibitors of which 16 were Turkish. The apparel hall had 135 companies of which 29 were from Turkey. The tricot section had 24 exhibitors of which 2 from Turkey. The Masion D expectations, very exclusive design section had 25 exhibitors. The fair was visited by 54,500 professionals coming from 120 countries. 09

10 PREMIERE VISION ISTANBUL a show embodying all fashion values: quality, innovation and energy! 7/9 March The successful show was held in Istanbul Congress Center, 7-9 March 2018 The heart of fashion pulsated at PV Istanbul Show organized with the contribution of Uludag Exporters Association (UTIB). Considered as the most respectful fashion fabric fair of the world, Premiere Vision Fair brought textile professionals from all over the world notably from Eastern Europe and Middle East together at Istanbul Congress Center, 7-9 March Taking the lead in most important fabric fairs of the world and in direct contribution of the textile sector to exports PV Istanbul Fair was supported by UTIB at every stage and stepped forward in the global arena with the members of UTIB. Uludag Textile Exporters Association (UTIB) organized International Buyer Mission program and 31 companies from 9 different countries (Albania, Bosnia Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Iran, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Serbia, Jordan, and Greece) and Press Mission Program 8 press members from 4 different countries (Bulgaria, Iran, Ukraine, and Romania) were hosted. Exhibitors met with the potential buyers. Spring Summer 18 season s key colors were presented in trend area.

11 PREMIERE VISION NEW YORK 18/19 July 2018 Premiere Vision New York, will be held between the dates July Premiere Vision New York and Indigo New York will met with 3000 visitors at Pier 94. UTIB continue National participation organizations in Premiere Vision Shows. UTIB will organize Turkey Country Lounge with the support of Ministry of Economy. The aim of the lounge is to claims the succes of Turkish fashion fabrics producers and invite professionals to discover the potential. Visitors will have a chance to discover Turkish culter and get to know more about Turkey where their potential clients are Visit Turkey Lounge and have a chance to win a special gift from Turkey! 011

12 INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS NEWS: 27/29 September Uludag Textile Exporters Association is continuing national participation organizations at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics show which will be held in Shanghai, September Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is one of the biggest in ready to wear clothing fabric fair. The fair will except visitor for 3 days. Because of its general performance, professional visitors, fair area s conditions and the fair administration s service we are expecting a succesful organization. In this edition, UTIB will build a Turkey Country Lounge with the support of Ministry of Economy. The lounge introduced Turkish textile sector and Turkish culture to the China in addition to the concept of the lounge will introduce Turkish Textile sector and Turkish culture to China in addition to the concept of Turkey Discover the Potential.

13 SOUTH AFRICA ready to meet Turkish Mills 20/22 November 2018 UTIB s goal is to support Turkish mills in international platforms. To accomplish this, UTIB will organize a national participation to ATF Expo which will be held in Cape Town / North Africa, November Turkish exhibitors are expecting to meet local professional visitors as well as professionals from close regions. National participation organization is the best way to introduce Turkish Fabric producers to African Market. Our goal is to discover this market and help exporters to meet potential buyers. This organization will be good chance to enter African market 013

14 utibnews SILKWORM REWARDS FOUND THEIR OWNERS İbrahim Burkay: Our exporters writes a real success story 014 Silkworm Export Awards, organized to reward successful exporters by Uludağ Textile Exporters Association (UTİB) and Uludağ Apparel and Clothing Exporters Association (UHKİB) every year, found their owners. İbrahim Burkay, Chairman of Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry (BTSO) said, I believe that the high exports performance obtained in the first 2 months of the new year is also the harbinger of new records. President İbrahim Burkay, stating that Bursa, with its $ 14 billion record exports and additional employment figures exceeding 80 thousand, has managed to become the driving force of Turkey s economy in 2017, said that, in the same period, our export amount exceeded 8 billion USD while the exports contribution of textile sector increased by 3 percent..as UTIB, our contribution to country s external trade has amounted 1 billion 200 million dollars. I heartily congratulate you all once again for your valuable contribution to our country s goals. I believe that the high exports performance obtained in the first 2 months of the new year is also the harbinger of new records. As UTIB showing the success of exporting to more than 148 countries and regions, our contributions both to city and country s foreign trade goals will grow apace. As UTİB, which has successfully exported to 148 countries and regions, we hope that your contributions to our city and our country s foreign trade targets will continue to increase.. Our exporters write a real success story İbrahim Burkay, who expressed that there is a rarely seen synchronicity, faith, and synergy that Bursa can reveal more than it has accomplished so far, said that We are also actualizing our work and projects in the new period with the power we have acquired from this beautiful atmosphere. As BTSO and UTİB, we were able to carry the goals and dreams of our Bursa far beyond expectations, with all our projects supporting our recovery moves in the economy ranging from product development to employment, from industry, or export and economic development. Even in the difficulties in the world economies and in our geography, our exporters who have been working devotedly, have achieved a phenomenal success in order to provide more employment opportunities and to increase our prosperity. SilkWorm Export Rewards On the other hand, a total of 105 companies were awarded in the field of textile and ready-to-wear in the SilkWorm Export Awards. While Yeşim Selling Shops and Textile Fabrics in Textile Industry. Inc. took the first place, Zorlu Foreign Trade and Fistaş Foreign Trade Marketing Inc. became the most successful companies. A total of 51 companies in this area were awarded for their export success, with gold, silver and bronze awards according to their performances.

15 In the field of Apparel and Clothing, Yeşim Sales Stores and Textile Fac. Inc., EDT Ready-to-Wear and Oz Textile Industry shared the first three rankings with the highest export rate, a total of 54 companies were again awarded with gold, silver and bronze awards for their export performances. Exports Target in Technical Textile is $ 5 billion Turkish Textile and Apparel Sector 10, that is organized in cooperation with Uludag Textile Exporters Association (UTİB), Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry (BCCI) and Bursa, Eskisehir Bilecik Development Agency (BEBKA), was held in R & D Project Market Summit in Bursa. In the event, organized in the conference hall of Bursa Textile and Apparel R & D Center (BUTEKOM), successful projects were also awarded. 47 projects are granted an award 015 Indicating that the project market concept initiated by UTİB is a role model in 30 different sectors today, Burkay said, We have actualized nearly 170 projects from R & D Project Markets that we started in 2009 to bring together our exporters with R & D, the public with private sectors, and attract academicians and students to the sector..our goal is to raise technical textile exports from $ 1.7 billion to $ 5 billion. At the award ceremony, 47 projects in 16 categories were awarded, ranging from defense to aeronautics, to textiles to space industries apart from categories like functional textiles, smart textiles, including one of Turkey s most important export items, which is vehicles and technical textiles for the automotive industry and the composites.

16 016 NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // BURSA BUSINESS WORLD IS READY TO HELP TURKISH SOLDIERS Bursa business world has taken action after Mr. President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan s statement regarding the import reduction as soon as Turkey increases its production capacity. Mr. İbrahim Burkay, the President of BTSO said that We have prepared to produce smart textile and some kind of cloths that could cushion during bleeding, take some survival values such as the pulse, stress, body temperature etc. and could send them to the centre wirelessly. Bursa business world backed up the words of Mr. President Erdoğan who said that We would not import any product, software or system that could be designed, produced and developed in our own country except in the case of an emergency. Bursa business world, which is brought together under the same roof in the leadership of Mr.İbrahim Burkay, the President of the Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry, held a meeting on short notice in order to determine the needs of Turkish Armed Forces. While the meeting held by Bursa business world to determine how to satisfy the needs of the Turkish Armed Forces, Mr. İbrahim Burkay made mention of their move in producing smart and multi-functional military uniforms and equipments for Turkish Soldiers by using Nano- technological, yet smart and functional textile and electro-technology. BURSA S SIGNATURE TO WORLD S GIANT COMPANIES President Burkay expressed that: World s giant companies such as NASA, Boeing and Airbus have procured many parts used in their products from Bursa. Parts and products that Turkish Armed Forces have needed are available in Bursa and Our companies, providing parts used in some machines produced by the most important companies of the world could develop the products required by Turkish Armed Forces. In this context, Bursa business world is ready to take on the task much more actively for our national and native projects. Emphasizing that defence industry could grow rapidly where the automotive industry is very powerful, Mr. Burkay mentioned that Bursa is one of the most important automotive production centers in Turkey. Mr. Burkay also stated that they are ready to meet all the needs of Turkish Armed Forces.

17 SHIELDS FOR TURKISH SOLDIERS Aiming to increase the speciality of Bursa Technology Coordination and R&D Centre (BUTEKOM) in military textile, technical textile and smart textiles, Mr. Burkay verbalized that BTSO has worked in cooperation with the Undersecretariat for Defence Industries. While mentioning that they would improve the cooperation between the institutions within the scope of the project called Nefer, Mr. Burkay continued his speech as follows: Such a fascinating cloth can be produced that it can cushion during blooding by shrinking automatically like a natural cushion. Thanks to the various microsensors on the smart clothes some survival values could be recorded and observed such as the pulse, stress, body temperature etc., so it would be possible to determine whether the soldiers are in a clash of arms or any other state of emergency. Also, these data would be able to be tracked by the command center. Clothes that can secrete vitamin and increase body immunity by using nanotechnology and micro capsulation technologies, will be able to increase functionalities when combined with this kind of cloth during the military operation. Apart from the clothes, some kind of equipment such as special helmets and monitor systems, night vision systems will be able to increase the military capability and security. Now that we are a developed country, it is necessary for our military armies, like the special operations forces to use such kind of equipment. So we should create a market for such products. We have worked in cooperation with the Undersecretaries for Defence Industries. Countries have vital agreements about their future soldiers. We would be delighted to have the right to voice such issues. FOR THE SOLDIERS OF THE FUTURE Stating that BUTEKOM became accredited by the international institutions in December 2017, President Burkay said that Advanced Composite Materials Research and Excellence Center will come into operation in June. Thanks to our Textile and Technical Textile Excellence Center, more than tests in a broad range of composite material technologies will be performed in this center. All non-combustibility tests required by the sectors such as railway systems, transportation, and aviation industry will be performed here. This center to be competent for performing all tests on material categorization under the same roof provides savings on time while creating opportunities for our companies in terms of effective resource utilization. Qualification of the researchers will be increased in this context. 017 WE PRODUCT OUR HOMELAND Revealing that almost 130 companies and NGOs in Bursa under the umbrella of Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry have given an unwavering support for the Turkish Armed Forces leading an operation in Afrin against the terrorist organizations, Mr.Burkay explained: The strong economy has provided assurance for Turkey. Stating that success of the counterterrorism military operation in Afrin, Syria has reflected credit on Turkish economy and developed trust and confidence for Turkey and Turkish economy across the world, Mr. Burkay said Operation Olive Branch has an importance so as to provide innocent civilians security in our borders and nearby geography by cleaning up the terrorist organization in the region under threat of territorial integrity and border security. Mr. Burkay also said, As Bursa business world representatives and non-governmental organizations, we will lay claim to our country with the same unity and solidarity forever and ever; as we did courageously against the treacherous coup attempt on July 15th by banding together.

18 018 NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // NEWS FROM US // SPECIAL SOLUTIONS FROM EMR FOR HEAVY- HANDLED DENIMS EMR Zipper, makes an indeliable impression as a company continuously investing in innovation with its experience for many years in the sector. Since the day it was founded, the zippers developed by the company, which produces innovation and solution on a sectoral basis, challenging heavy-handled products. With high strength, visually elegant and comfortable to use zippers, EMR Group crank it up the notch of the quality perception. Besides the zipper production in the field of denim, the product range of company such as jeans, rivets, leather labels and crutches are also very broad. EMR Zipper, a globally acknowledged supplier to many world ready-to-wear brands, increases its product quality via the principle of respect to nature and the environment. The company s products, which exhibited in many prestigious fairs that are known globally, are attracting great interest, especially by the producers of denim.

19 LC WAIKIKI OUTGROWS IN THE GLOBAL SCENE LC Waikiki, whose mission is Everyone deserves to dress well, plans to launch its products to 50 countries in 2018 by entering 12 new countries. LC Waikiki, with 30 stores in Turkey and 120 new stores abroad to be opened, LC Waikiki aims to increase the total number of stores to 1000 and the number of turnovers to 16.2 billion TL. LC Waikiki appeared in France in 1988, has been a Turkish brand since Behind the success of LC Waikiki s global image, there lies the philosophy of everyone deserves to dress well. LC Waikiki adopts the vision of becoming one of Europe s three most successful fashion retailers in 2023 with the mission of making people feel good by dressing them in style and budget. Denim breezes in LC Waikiki LC Waikiki is gaining customers appreciation with denim products, a must-have piece of every wardrobe. LC Waikiki, which carried out 108,538,145 denim sales since 2012, offers a wide range of products to customers with innovative products in denim LC Waikiki is confronted this year with a collection of moto jeans marked the season, appliques and patches are used in plenty, contrast prints are used both in the upper and lower groups. Jackets with slogans, decorative pigment splashes, plenty of zippered pants and stapled, stoned, pants jackets attract the most. Filthy trouser hems, torn out hems, crop pant, motorcycle jacket and over t-shirts are the details and pieces that stand out again in the collection.the essentials of the summer season, the white denim, and the white rollers, always have a special place in the LC Waikiki collection. The LC Waikiki Casual collection brings together the man who carries denim s dynamism and energy into his active life, with the rich tones of blue that is enriched with light colors and tints during the summer season. Ceramic blueprints, slobs, camo details and bleached denim catch the eye this season. With the patches appear more in the foreground, it also covers the bottom and top group products. The casual denim that represents a man who lives a social life in the vibrant streets of the city is now stronger with the boldness of black and nobility. In the season when the green tones are created by the camo patterns, every dense tone of the color can be seen with the colors that my denim made from the deep sea waters. Every tone of green can be seen with the colors denim that is formed by the deep water of the sea. In LC Waikiki men s denim collection, Fresh Denim always typical and favored will mark the new season.the denim pants and shirts, which contain almost every color tone, give the season a fresh air.another favorite color for the season is gray for men who do not want to wear dark as black, and lighter colors. 019 category. Denim is produced in accordance with the European Regulations, as in the case of other LC Waikiki products, while keeping product safety on the front panel. The denim designs that stand out in the women s group also include a high waist fitter that wraps the body, gives action-free comfort with flexibility and make you feel the day-long comfort at the top level with soft touching. Super skinny jeans with cozy flexible fabrics are leading. As is the case with males, jackets in long and short with destroying and in different colors surprise us in women s denim.mom jeans and processed jeans are again among the indispensable for women this year.

20 Piero TURK BOSSA AW Denim Collection When we start every Bossa denim collection we think about cultural trends and influences. We want to fit our denims in the consumers movements and directions. So we create frames covering the different aspects of the denim/ jeans trends. We fill these frames with our ideas, our innovations. This season we divided the collection in 5 groups. Piero Turk MODERN CLASSIC 020 Original jeans look with scents from 80 s and 90 s but with modern touch, new technologies and innovative contents, keeping the roots in the denim heritage. With the denims in this group we want to cover one of the most important trend in the society. Unisex it s the word that explains completely this concept. Young generations don t want anymore to dress up with gender codes. They want to express themselves in an unconventional and totally free way. They don t want to follow old cultural stereotypes. Boyfriend jeans, mom s jeans, girlfriend fits are all fine and our denims can be used for any style. They can also match the needs of creative designers to create new and various styles: coats, wide leg pants, jackets. BLUE SUEDE MAKE-UP SPORT N STRIPES What s softer, comfortable, cozy than suede? Denims created to be extra soft, warm, ultra stretch. Wearing jeans made with these innovative fabrics gives a feeling of relax and well being. Soft fiber blends, brushed effects, high elasticity, new technologies are our key points. Tencel, modal, new hollow fibers, new spinning and weaving technics, all together have the purpose to develop the most comfortable denims. With our creativity, know how and technologies we create denims with huge variety of colors, shades, washing effects. Special dyeing methods, coatings, overdye can develop a never ending color stream. Jeans are not just and only blue! With Bossa you can play with no limits. Another big trend in the market is looking at sport/active garments to express fashion. Performing fabrics, colors, loose constructions, they are used for a common way to dress up. And we develop denims to fit in this fashion area. Denims that can easily be useful to for sport looking garments. KEEP IT CLEAN Sustainability, clean production processes, reduce wastage of water and energy, not polluting, recycle, reuse, are all concepts in our DNA. Recycled cotton, recycled fibers, new dyeing technologies, post-consumer reuse, organic cotton, ecological and natural dyes. Probably the widest, complete and interesting offer that can be found in the denim market. Since many years we work seriously and deeply in this important field. Our commitment is to do our part to keep our planet clean.

21 021

22 022 J N C ROUNDTABLE AMSTERDAM BETTER DENIM FOR A BETTER FUTURE To kick off the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam the specialist magazine J N C hosted second roundtable discussion with YBONE textile contribution on 17 APRIL 2018 in the A DAM Toren. Among those at the table discussing topics like the future of denim, sustainable denim production and Turkey as a manufacturing location, were key players of the Turkish textile industry, among them Baykanlar, Orta Anadolu, Calik and Bossa Denim, UTIB Association as well as brands and branch representatives from Scandinavia. During the lively discussion it was soon clear what a key role sustainability and fair trade will play in the future, and how the fast-paced technological developments will increasingly define this aspect of fashion production. You can read up on the highlights of the stimulating and informative talks in the latest edition of J N C, with a special focus on sustainable fashion: on your newsstands from June 26.

23

24 IAN S SECRET GARDEN WORK WITH DENIM 024 IAN Ian Berry, who has been working in Denim for a long while, repositions Denim as a work of art thanks to his 3-dimensional designs. Ian, reinterpreting Denim as an artistic work through distinct wash methods, is portraying contemporary life and issues in his works. Ian, who wanted to be an artist as a young boy but was pushed away in the late teens by those who said there is no career and life in art, did not leave the path he believed.

25 He necessitates for everyone to chase after their dreams and has a recommendation for the pushaways, don t go poisoning young minds with your own fears. Ian, who believes that it is important to tell and help kids see the arts can lead to good careers and options, thinks that denim is a pretty cool material what kids are familiar with and connect with more fun times (away from school uniform). In the New York Children s Museum, Ian, who organizes workshops for children s with denim materials, describes the museum as such: The museum is a brilliant place, I wish I had something like the place when I was growing up. The Childrens Museum of New York have work rooms with all the equipment for children to experiment and working artists on hand to help. They also always have to professional exhibitions on, by top artists. While mine goes on I show with Ellen Harvey, many of my other favourite artists have shown there and its great children can be exposed to the work and do work inspired by it. When asked about his main inspirers while designing this garden, he resplies as follows: I exposed it because of children, seeing it through their (and the parents) eyes. Thinking of their safety, and enjoyment but always through their little eyes. Thinking of my childhood in my garden, and the woods, compared to many today glues to the ipads and other digital devices. BERRY Also thinking of the kids in New York, many wouldn t have their own gardens. I wanted to draw attention to the great community gardens hidden between the buildings all over the city. Perhaps the parent could take them afterward to see, and compare to mine! I also found it interesting, from an education point of view, that I was making something that was made from a plant, back into plants. 025 When asked about how he carries out his team and works together, He replies as: I had a fairly large team on this one, from professional help with the likes of Tonello from Italy, a specialist Italian tech company who make the machines for the different laundries around the world with specialist ecofriendly practices.

26 026

27 I used these in the work to wash the denim, but I also used their laser machines to cut the vines for the trellis. I also had the help of Cone Mills who donated the denim from white Oak, a factory in the USA that had just closed down. It was the last one to close down in the USA. Then a lot of the rest were volunteers. Who all came and helped put things together from making plants and flowers to doing photographer and illustrator skills. Ian revealing his thoughts on working with children says that: I didn t make this with the children, but for them. I will do some things in future with them however. I did always make it with them in mind and that is why I made it simpler than I may have done, so they can have a go at making some of the things.i have done some other things with kids in the past and sometimes you are amazed with the bit of help what they can do, and others dismayed how easy they can give up. But always by then end they are surprised at what they could have created. Ian, whom we asked, what would have been different for him if he would turn back to 10, replies as follows: I just went back to my high school yesterday for the first time in 18 years, I left in It was a strange experience. Both good and bad. I told the kids they had to believe in themselves and that no one owes them anything and the buck ends with them. They are responsible for their futures and hard work counts. What I want to tell kids is that no one is more special than anyone else, no one just suddenly was good at something and rose to the top. Hard work is important but the belief in yourself and if you want to do something, do it, don t just talk about. Everyone has good ideas. Only a few can put them into action. this that is what makes the material that creates jeans.i hope they can look at nature differently, they are looking and plants, just in denim, I hope they go outside and re look at the plants, and the world around them. I hope the parent seems them enjoying being in the garden, and perhaps takes them out more to them. New York has great open spaces Regarding his future projects, Ian gives some tips: I m working on many, including a portrait project, but they will all be revealed in future and on ianberry.art. 027 With Secret Garden Project we tried to showcase so that children can be inspired by what materials as unusual as they are, can be made in to art. There is the recycling element, there is the amazed look when they see the cotton plant and they are told it is

28 028 ISKO BRINGS INNOVATION TO DENIM MARKET One of Sanko Holding s companies in the textile industry, İSKO, remains the world leader in denim production. Making a name for itself through its collaborations with leading brands that shape the world fashion, İSKO grows through R&D and innovation investments. Starting production in 1904 on a handloom, and growing up to be a giant in the textile industry in five generations, İSKO has also become a business partner for global brands. Sanko Holding Board of Directors Member Fatih Konukoğlu says as he sums up İSKO s success, The secret to this success is a robust market research as well as a strong and effective R&D effort. Today, with over 20-patented products and over 80 trademarks we are the world s most innovative premium denim company. With an annual denim fabric production capacity of 250 million meters, production facilities of 300 thousand square meter and 35 sales offices across the world, İSKO, is the most important premium denim fabric producer in the world. İSKO, which started its R&D efforts in 1996, has over 95 personnel, all expert researchers and technicians in basic sciences and engineering, dedicated to this field. İSKO stands out in the sector with its Technology Development division set up in 2013 by hiring people with doctorate degrees in physics, chemistry and biology in order to take its R&D activities to the next level. This can be considered a first for the textile industry.

29 Offering concepts supported by technology to its customers, İSKO also helps improve the value of the brands as well as products. In that regard, İSKO s collaborations with leading fashion brands (Diesel, Replay, Barbour, Liu Jo, Guess, Jbrand) make its name globally known. In particular, İSKO s Jogg Jeans in collaboration with Diesel, and Hyperflex in collaboration with Replay bring great excitement and energy to the denim world. An innovative product created by the joint efforts of İSKO s R&D unit and expert teams researching global clothing industry, JEGGINGS offers a highly elastic, super skinny denim fabric for womenswear and it is still İSKO s best-selling product group. JEGGINGS technology, which is also included in Oxford English Dictionary, stands out as an İSKO trademark in Europe. Developed in 2008, JEGGINGS trademark shines as the top product of all textile brands. Today, we are the most innovative premium denim company in the world One of the most important breakthroughs of İSKO, İSKO FUTURE FACE was also registered to European Patent Office in May This product is known as the vanguard of athleisure trend and İSKO is the only producer of this product group as the sole proprietor of its patent. 029 İSKO BLUE SKIN and İSKO ARQUAS denote the latest achievements in denim innovation. İSKO BLUE SKIN is the first four-way stretch denim fabric in history. A new favorite for the brands, this concept is starting to make its way into the collections of the brands with its latest super stretch fabric. Bringing denim and sportswear together, ARQUAS also marks a significant innovation for the industry. İSKO aims to continue its trailblazing innovations in the denim market and remain in its position as the world leader.

30 030 TALKS

31 031

32 KIPAS DENIM What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation? Actually biggest effect comes from the nature itself. Like many other industries, denim - with old fashion production mentalities effecting the environment very much. Starting from cotton fields to end user water usage increased to incredible levels. Our responsibility start here to control and lower any undesired result. 032 We are investing hard for creative solutions with our INNOCENCE concept. This is getting bigger and bigger every day. Starting with the right selection of raw material, decreasing water and chemical usage, we combine our knowledge and passion. Each collection becomes more and more sustainable. Besides market is now demanding value added products without compromising nature-industry balance. We are also stepping very careful about cost efficiency, as this is the one of the most important point for sustainability. Customers are looking for side benefits rather than covering their body. Jeans increasing its position both on commodity and luxury part. We are and will be more careful where to step next. We are KIPAS, we are working with nature. Murat ARIÖZ Kipaş Denim Sales and Marketing Director

33 KMS METAL ACCESSORIES What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation? We are able follow international fashion trends and can implement the latest technologies and innovations to our business. As a result of this opportunity we can easily supply the requests of our customers. KMS Kılıçoğlu makes 80% production for denim sector. Monthly production of about 100 million metal accessories and Turkey are also among the leading European firm and our goal is to become one of the leading companies worldwide in Europe and beyond. We produce all kinds of metallic accessories and automatic riveting or binding machineries for textile, leather, shoes, bag, tent, curtain and canvas sectors under KMS Accessories and Kılıçoğlu Machinery brands. Our product range includes metal buttons, snap fasteners, eyelets, rivets, drops, metal labels, nails, zippers, and some special metallic accessories. Within the changing, globalizing and more urbanized world order, the denim sector is also progressing towards producing Jean which is more suitable for city life and more convenient casual wear. In addition, the sector is moving towards a direction where it is more nature-friendly and recycling becomes more important, protecting nature more. In this trend, we focus more on nature-friendly metal products, especially painted products, to develop natural painted and environmentally friendly products. 033 With the motivation that we provide from this strength and the comfort of the local brand awareness; we re now exporting to 30 countries mainly in Europe, North Africa, Middle East, East Europe, Russia and Middle Asian Republics. We continue to conduct our studies in order to expand our brands to new markets. Güneş Canan Sales &Marketing Manager

34 VAV TECHNOLOGY What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation? 034 Green and clean sustainable denim production is the latest trend in Denim Industry. A Turkish company achieved a first in No Hand Touch finishing technologies for Denim Industry. VAV Technology Company developed high-tech PREDATOR laser machines, Eraser Brush Robots and Da Vinci Spray Robots for sustainable and No Hand Touch production. New Predator laser machine equipped with revolutionary Never Ending Power laser tube and innovative F- HDR software. You can reduce the running cost of the machine with Neverending power laser tubes. F- HDR Software supply, No Hand Touch denim production. No Stone Wash, No PP, No Hand Scraping. The Company s Vice President Mr. Aydin KUMBARACI informed us about VAV Technology s products: Mr. KUMBARACI stated that VAV Technology Company s aim was to solve remaining problems in production through high technology. He also stated that the Company s only purpose was not being a production focused organization but most importantly to protect the environment and human health, therefore, we focused on No Hand Touch sustainable denim production technologies. Mr. KUMBARACI mentioned the airborne particles and dust problems in dry processes are a very big issue for human health besides quality consistency when manually doing Moustache, Rodeo, and hand scraping. The Company s solution to these problems is the Predator laser Machines with F HDR Software. Mr. KUMBARACI explained the new Da Vinci Spray Robots for the problems in wet (spray) processes. He underlined that these robots were not only produced to increase the quality and efficiency of production but to minimize health and environment problems stemming from the textile production. He especially stressed that it is everyone s social responsibility to create and protect a healthy environment and VAV Technology is trying to do its best. Mr. KUMBARACI pointed that the leading and prestigious denim producers are using VAV Technology machines and he talked about the good news in Research and Development studies for new Sustainable Production systems for denim producers. VAV Technology provides solutions to all problems in denim production with its Predator Lasers, Eraser Brush Robots, Technoflow, Ozone and Spray Robots. Mr. KUMBARACI finally stated that we do not want to be a machinery producer merely, we would like to be a company producing services and creating values. Beside this, our purpose is to be the first address for all denim producers in solving their production problems. Mr. KUMBARACI: In denim production, some chemicals like resin and permanganate, are manually sprayed out on the products. This dangerous process is damaging the quality of the product as well as the workers health and environment. With the Da Vinci Robots developed by VAV Technology, human health and the environment are protected and companies quality and efficiency problems are solved. While decreasing chemical consumption, these systems achieve a real sustainable production and protect human health. Aydın Kumbaracı Vice President

35 W DENIM What do you think about how do the future mega trends affect the Denim World? How is your company preparing for this situation? It is estimated that denim market in the US will expand rapidly in the next decade which will have direct positive effects across the globe in our sector. This foreseen growth is a result of casual wear trends and consumers shift from Athleisure to denim products. Among the latest trends of the market, there are private/ customized denim production and online merchandising. If we take a look at the private labels at Amazon, it is true that 87% of private labels are made up of clothing, shoes and accessory categories. In addition to this, because of rapidly changing consumer preferences and increased awareness of the consumers, the important players in the sector become more competitive to be able to provide good quality, comfort and the right style at a right price. At this point we read the change and do a serious process analysis. As a result of these, our goal is always to prepare a collection that will meet all consumer expectations. 035 Ali Can Kurt Sales &Marketing Manager US

36 INTERVIEW 036 Çalık Denim Factory and R&D Director Ahmet Serhat Karaduman ÇALIK DENIM IS 30 YEARS OLD Çalık Denim, which is among the top 10 companies in the production of premium denim fabrics, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. As TFF Magazine, we have talked about R & D investments and future vision of the company with Çalık Denim Factory and R&D Director Ahmet Serhat Karaduman. Çalık Denim, allocates about 2% of the turnover in R&D investments, is also proud to have the only Denim R & D center with state approval. 30 y with suc

37 Would you briefly introduce yourself? I was born in Muş in I graduated from Selçuk University with a Bachelor s degree in Mechanical Engineering and got my Master s degree in Management Organization at Çukurova University Social Sciences Institute. I stepped into business life as a weaving engineer in GAP Güneydoğu Textile company in 1996, previously known as Çalık Denim under Çalık Holding. Then, I worked in Turkmenistan Textile Group as Weaving, Dyeing and Product Development Manager. In 2013, I was assigned to Çalık Denim as R&D Manager in Malatya. And I have been working as a Factory and R&D Director since Being Factory and R&D Director at the same time is important to underline that innovation and production is inseperable for us ears full of cess 037

38 INTERVIEW Çalık Denim, which is among Çalık Denim aims to increase its the top 10 companies in the market share in the world from production of premium denim 5 percent to 10 percent by fabrics in the world, celebrates Would you briefly tell us about its 30th anniversary this year. the works carried out in this What are the effects of R&D context? 038 department in succeding Çalık Denim? We are entitled to open the seventh R & D center in textile industry of Turkey with the certificate we received in We have become a center of science that will reflect our deep-rooted knowledge in the industry through R & D studies and new technologies. We owe our achievements in value-added denim production to investments in R&D and innovation. When we look at it numerically, we allocate about 2% of our turnover for R&D investments. We do not fixate our research to just denim or fabric in the R & D center. We are conducting research on Advanced Textile Products in the center where over 40 engineers are located. We keep working on a much wider field of nanotechnology, intelligent fabrics, different functionalities. In addition to such products developed through R & D investments, we are also carrying out many business associations and projects in order to improve our business processes, to make more efficient production and contribute to academic life. We are enriching our R & D activities internationally. To sum up, investments we have made in this field and R & D work we have carried out in this regard, along with the importance we have given to development and innovation in all our processes, contribute greatly to the Çalık Denim brand at the end of the day... Since the first day of Çalık Denim established, investments have always been very important to us. As a premium denim fabric producer with 30 years of experience, we owe our current position in the global market to both our employees, who are part of our family and the investments we have made in R & D and innovation. We will continue to invest in this direction to increase our market share in the upcoming periods. Technology is the most important cornerstone in our development. We owe the value-added fabrics we have developed to the advanced technology infrastructure. We have invested $ 140,000,000 between The target investment rate between 2018 and 2021 is going to be $ 95,000,000. By 2020 we will increase our capacity by 60 million meters and increase our global market share by 10%. Collaboration projects are really important to move brands further. Our aim is to create Çalık Denim quality and trust to the end-consumer through our fabrics which we have developed with our innovative technologies. For this reason, we are collaborating both with brands and universities - especially those teaching fashion and design. Çalık Denim has the only denim R & D center with state approval. Çalık Denim also works on new technologies in denim production. Would you explain about your works and innovative products you offer to the sector? As a company that stands out with its innovative and solution producing products in the denim industry, we brought new breath to the industry with the concepts such as Oxygene, Elastech, T-Power, Red Carpet, Fly Jean and Smart Stretch. With these concepts, we found solutions to problems that could not be solved in the industry before

39 What will be the future expectations of Denim Market in the world in general and in Turkey in specific? Do you align these expectations in your research work? Thanks to our large and experienced team of R & D and P&D we are often predicting the trends by feeding on different disciplines, making continuous trend trips. This is actually one of our most important missions... And trends, even though a self-repetitive cycle in certain periods, it has to adapt to the new it is in existence and to meet the expectation of the people of this period. At this point, our R & D works are gaining importance. To exemplify through the technologies we developed, while super stretch jean demand was on the rise, the open-end look jeans started to become very fashionable. With this demand of the industry, Calik Denim has developed D enovated concept in SS 18 season. Now, it is one of the remarkable concepts of the SS 19 collection with its updated features. New fabrics have an authentic look with distinctive twill lines combined with the advantages of today s technologies and upgraded to create a 3D effect every time they re washed. What makes the Concept stand apart among its kind fabrics is that they are smooth, bright and have no itchy or fuzzy feel. Comfort and style blend as one. Another technology that we concentrated on is Smart Stretch. Recently, the fashion industry has become more open to the notion of being at ease with ourselves. It s not only about being thin and fit anymore There has been a wakeup call for the trend, and Calik Denim concentrated on this plus size trend which is increasingly becoming more important and also employ new technologies to make its customers and end-users lives easier. Embracing the concept of curves as opposed to thinness, Calik Denim s Smart Stretch was developed both for comfort and style, suiting all body shapes including plus sizes, which the fashion industry now recognises exists! Using new technologies to increase its holding power and help it keep shape, Smart Stretch works to enhance both slim and curvaceous figures. Before, the waist and knee areas were compressed but now with the new added Smart Stretch technology, the fabric knows exactly where to stretch and where not. This smart technology shapes and reveals curves where it is needed. On the other hand, recently, people have been seeking to be comfortable as well as being chic in their daily lives. Furthermore, the most of the time they want to go everywhere in sports clothes. Even in the offices.. This demand is also increasing by Millenials entering our lives. When it comes to being comfortable and chic we met athleisure. And we couldn t stop without introducing this trend with the denim industry by creating athlejean story. The concept is a new breath in the industry with its outstanding features. As the concept offers impossible lightness, exceptional flexibility and creamy softness, Fly Jean is the perfect fit for the athleisure style In summary, we are carrying out our activities with international cooperation by ensuring the integration of intelligent systems in all our organizations and processes in order to move our technological sub-production to a level where we can respond to all possible requests for the future periods that are expecting to become increasingly difficult. 039

40 INTERVIEW IF TURKISH TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY SEEKS TO MAINTAIN ITS COMPETITIVE POSITION IN FUTURE, IT SHOULD GIVE SOME THOUGHTS TO SUSTAINABILITY. What kind of works or developments Era Garment is doing about this topic? 040 ERA GARMENT GENERAL MANAGER ROMAIN NARCY With Era Garment we have talked about the ongoing innovations in the sector and the sustainability works that were carried out so far. Referring to the utmost importance of sustainability in the world of Denim, Era Garment General Manager Romain Narcy has also given special emphasis to the global position of such works. Sustainability is a long road having many directions. We started to work on sustainability in 2013 by using fabrics with organic content for a French brand. Then in 2014, we develop a project with our main customer to use denim fabrics with high recycle content of Cotton & Polyester. The pants to be recycled were collected in France & transformed into recycled yarns in France too. Then the yarns were sent to a Turkish mill for weaving. Once we got the fabric, we realized the final products. At that time, the limitations were physical as we had to use a thick yarn, making a Cotton/Polyester finished fabric weighting around 13.50OZ & without Elastane - due to technical limitations no recycled yarns with elastane were available these days. This program continued for a couple of years, keeping the weight & fabric composition but changing the indigo shades in collaboration with the customer & denim mill. In 2017, we went one step further by getting certified for OCS (Organic Content Standard). In 2017 too, we decided to prepare ourselves for GOTS certification (Global Organic Textile Standard) & in January 2018 we applied & received the certificate. The main difficulty for a denim garment manufacturer to be GOTS certified is that the full production cycle has to be reviewed from fabrics - trims - sewing - washing processes & finish. We developed an expertise in the sourcing of sustainable fabrics & now the next step in to be sustainable of the washing side. So, for 2018 our biggest project is a sustainable washing plant that would allow us to use 1 liter of water/garment instead of the average 70 liters of water/garment seen today in the industry. Its capacity would be of around pcs/month. In addition, ERA has been involved in the Denim Alliance based in Amsterdam since its first meeting in 2017, the aim of this NGO is to increase the use of recycled fibers in denim garments. Brands, mills, garment makers are involved in this project (

41 How important it will be to make denim world more sustainable in the future? Cotton & polyester make up over 80% of all global fiber production. In 2015, 55 million tons of cotton and polyesters were produced The same year 53 million tons were put in landfills around the world First thing is to produce sustainable fabrics without Virgin fibers but recycled ones. As of today, they are no completely suitable solutions for using entirely recycled fabrics. I also believe that if we want sustainable fabrics to replace virgin ones, they should have the below qualities: > Same quality level as virgin fibers > Process to recycle them should be environmentally friendly > Cost competitive as mass consumers are not ready to pay a premium for sustainable garments How are these studies going on in the world? It seems that International brands are starting to get aware of the damages their production caused to our environment. Big companies such as C&A or H&M are now financing researches & institutes on sustainability. The names coming first to my mind are CIRCLE ECONOMY ( ; FASHION FOR GOOD ( in Amsterdam and the ELLEN MACARTHUR Foundation ( They are also important conference such as Copenhagen Fashion Summit ( copenhagenfashionsummit.com) taking place on a yearly basis & specialized on sustainability in the fashion business. 041 I feel Turkey & especially our sector has to take concrete actions, I would love to see our exporter associations pushing us in this direction and that the roundtables we are organizing on our own should be put in a strategy at a sector level. Some Turkish companies are innovative on sustainability at their level but they are no coordinated actions to bring the whole sector to a higher level. The Turkish Textile & ready-made garment sector has to wake up & come together on this matter if we want to stay competitive in the future.

42 INTERVIEW AMY 042 LEVERTON Denim Dudes Amy Leverton has been working in the denim industry since 2003; for four years as a denim and casual wear designer and the last 9 years in trend forecasting and consultancy. She has worked for the two world s leading trend forecasting sites; WGSN and Stylesight, heading up the denim and youth departments at both companies. In June 2015, after the launch of Denim Dudes, she registered her company in Los Angeles, California where she currently lives and works as an industry consultant. Her clients include Levi s, Kingpins and Vivienne Westwood.

43 Pls describe what denim & jeans means for you? Denim and jeans mean timelessness, versatility, history and future. What is your expectations for the future denim? Well there are many future fabric developments out there and I do get excited about the technological advancements such as new stretch technologies, moisture wicking denims, water resistant qualities and everything that comes with exploring the future denim possibilities but to be serious for a second I feel like the true future of denim needs to be a fully sustainable one. All the research that is currently going into recycling, water control and a more sustainable future has to hold the real future of denim because unfortunately we cannot go on making more and more and not suffering the repercussions. Denim dudes, denim dudettes and whats next? 043 I am now working on Denim Dens (working title) and this will track the homes, interiors, studios and stores of the global denim industry. I will be setting this book out slightly differently and arranging it in order of the denim lifecycle: from manufacturer through to end product and back again. I am also working on Diddy Denimheads. If you had another chance what you would be your career? Do you have another passion for your life? I probably would have gone into acting as I am a total showoff and at 18 I had to decide between fashion and drama and I chose fashion. Not sorry though!

44 Your favourite brands? Designers? Acne has always been an inspiration and their new Blå Konst line is fantastic. I am always on the lookout for new talent so I m not going to talk about age-old brands. The brands I am currently into are Lorod, MSBHV, Filles A Papa, Bode. 044 Pls explain how did you inspired to write those books? And what you get out of it? The people, most certainly. Our industry is all about community and I feel very proud to be a member of that community and have the opportunity to shed some light on the unsung heros. I am mostly inspired by what people wear and how they style denim in a multitude of different ways so the idea was to document that. What I have gained is the same as my readers: inspiration! When I would get photos in from the various shoots around the world, the inspiration and excitement would give me goosebumps. Its lovely that Dudettes is finally out so I can share that inspiration with everyone.

45 Your favourite jean? I have a vintage open end 1980 s pin-up jean I bought on my first trip to Tokyo in Unknown brand, not at all collectible or rare but everyone compliments me on it and so its rare to me. Your favourite city/place? I guess Tokyo but I do love Bangkok! And of course my new hometown, LA. And what you want to say about Turkish denim industry? The Turkish industry is actually very unique because you have a thriving, scaled and workable industry. If you think about Japan, Italy or America it still exists but its niche and high end only. Other countries which I feel uncomfortable naming are thriving but for the lower end markets, so are they truly sustainable or to be celebrated? Some of the factories are but not the markets as a whole. Turkey is in the middle: its workers are treated fairly and paid a decent wage and they can afford to buy the jeans they make. There are artisans and experts and there is a respect for craft but there is also a grounded, every day approach. I think in actual fact, Turkey has a very rare responsibility to address their industry as a litmus test on how to make mass production work in the most sustainable way because the Turkish denim scene is real life if that makes sense. 045

46 INTERVIEW Vice Chairman of Kipaş Holding and Chairman of Lee Cooper Turkey President of İTHİB AHMET ÖKSÜZ 046 With Kipaş Holding Vice Chairman and Turkey Lee Cooper Chairman Ahmet Öksüz, we talked about Lee Cooper s journey in Turkey, their 2018 goals, and the new markets they want to take place in future. First of all, can we know more about you and Kipaş Holding, occupying an important place in denim industry both in Turkey and in the World? Kipaş Holding was founded in 1984 in Kahramanmaraş and today we have facilities in 6 main sector Textiles, Cement, Paper, Energy, Agriculture and Education and 25 different companies. We have more than 8000 employees and over 1 billion $ turnover annually. Textile is an important sector for us and Kipaş Textiles is one of our biggest company and our investment in denim side is increasing year by year. This year we are doubling our denim production capacity starting in May.

47 You incorporated Lee Cooper to Company s structure. How did the idea of switching to retail come about? What were the goals you aimed with this investment? Lee Cooper is the oldest denim brand in Europe. It was founded in 1908 in England. We were producing for Lee Cooper and we had an offer from them to be the licensee of the Brand. Comparing production, Brand Management and retail is totally different sector. It has been 7 years now and we learned how to manage it. WORLD FAMOUS BRAND, LEE COOPER S JOURNEY IN TURKEY 047 Do you mind to share Lee Cooper s retail goals? How was 2017 for you? What is your target of turnover and growth at the end of 2018? At the end of 2017 we reached over 200 sale points. We sell over 1 million pieces annually. We will continue to grow in We are targeting 30% growth every year. Lee Cooper operates over 60 countries worldwide

48 INTERVIEW How many stores does Lee Cooper have now? Which cities do you offer services in your country and abroad? Lee Cooper operates over 60 countries worldwide. Our territory is Turkey and CIS Countries. You are one of the largest fully integrated textile companies in Turkey. You always keep technology on the forefront. Would you please open up our horizons about new technologies developing especially in the field of denim? Efficiency and sustainability are the most important thing. Thats why we are following new technologies and techniques as well to be more respectfull to nature. Also we are 048 working on the new techniques to reducing the harmful to environment with considering the quality level increasing. Especially on denim producing water and chemical using is very high. Our new technique Zero Water Indıgo Dyeing minimize the water and chemical use. Additionally it provides electricity saving. Zero Water process is completely Kipaş Project and we focusing to produce all of our denim fabrics with Zero Water Process.

49 Do you perform production in Turkey? Would you mind to explain your design team? We produce all products in Turkey. Our design team work very closely with the headquarter in London. We use the design combination of London and Turkey. Are there any target markets in which you expect to take place in the future to expand Lee Cooper s sales network? We have new projects to expand our sales. Lee Cooper London wants us to develop new markets. I think in 2018 there will be new countries. We have 200 Lee Cooper sale points and we are targeting %30 growth every year. 049 Can you give us information about Lee Cooper s export potential? Currently, we export Lee Cooper to Poland, Marocco, Azerbaijan and Russia. There will be new markets in 2018.

50 INTERVIEW JEAN S DYNAMIC AND YOUNG BRAND: Global Sales and Marketing Director COLIN S, serving with over 600 shops in 38 countries of the world, aims to be one of the most preferred jean-centric fashion brands in the world through the brand experiences concurrently reaching to the speed of youth in strategic markets until We have recently conducted an enjoyable interview with Önder Ön, Colin s Global Sales and Marketing Director, whom we have asked about the global sales network and the brand philosophy, about buying behaviors of consumers of denim market. Would you please tell us Colin s brand story and it s philosophy? 050 COLIN S was founded by Eroğlu Group in Istanbul in It grew rapidly right after its first store that was opened in Today we continue to work globally with more than 600 stores in 38 countries of the world, including Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Romania, and Georgia. Our mission is to provide youth more and more jean-centric fashion products by enjoying their life more. Our vision is to be one of the most preferred jean-focused fashion brands through the brand experiences concurrently reaching to the speed of youth in strategic markets until 2020.

51 What is COLIN S current position in the denim market? We have international markets that we directly manage all of our operations in the world mainly in Turkey, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, and Romania. The greatest characteristic of these markets is the young population we possessed... COLIN S is a dynamic and fresh brand, so we firmly believe that the potential in these regions is a very valuable asset and opportunity for us. We are working to become a leading Jean-brand in Russian and Ukrainian markets. We have been the Best Clothing Brand in the Retail Awards for 4 years in Ukraine, and in 2016 we were chosen as the most preferred apparel brand in Belarus by young people. In 2017, we became the most preferred brand in the category of Jean Store Chains, outnumbering many world brands in the number 1 category of the Year contest held in Belarus for 16 years. We believe that all these achievements add significant global value to our brand. We will adamantly continue to work to contribute to the growth of these achievements that have gained on the global scale.. What are your goals for 2018? We firmly aim to work harder to actualize our long-term plans by 2018 too. It is also one of our essentials to invest in 5 new markets until We are competing with the world s leadingt prestigious jean brands in Russia, Ukraine, Turkic Republics, Balkans, Europe and the Middle East. We are one of the 3 best-known jeans brands in Russia. That is why, we pursue to be one of the 2 worldrenowned Jean-brands in abovementioned markets until Would you tell us about COLIN S store network in Turkey and the world? Today, in which markets are COLIN S available? What will be your target market? We operate more than 200 stores in the country. We aim to be one of the most preferred Jean-centric apparel brands by young people in the strategic markets and to help them enjoy their life more. Within this mission and vision, we attach great importance to young people and work to take steps to strengthen our ties that we build up with young people both as customers and employees. In terms of employee satisfaction, it is also among our target-list to be one of the three most admired companies in the garment sector. If it is abroad, we try to do our best to maintain the steady approach we have been pursuing for years and the success we have demonstrated in our local organization. There are 328 stores abroad, mainly in Russia, Ukraine, and Belarus. Romania and Georgia. Among our future goals, we have placed both domestic and overseas growth plans. We plan to pursue opening stores in streets and shopping malls where we believe that it will add value and bring us closer to our customers. We also attach great importance to bringing our stores to different parts of Anatolia and mingling them with more young COLIN S lovers.. In overseas, we pursue to open 70 new stores over the next 3 years. These store activities will densely focus on our current strategic markets and the newly emerging markets that we are planning to step in. We will continue to increase the number of stores in Russia. We also conceive African and Far Eastern countries, Greece and Slovakia as eye-catching markets for COLIN S. Especially we aim to concentrate our investments in Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco, and Egypt. Among these markets, we have opened our first store in Morocco in early We intend to invest in the whole North African countries within 3 years. 051

52 Which international denim exhibitions COLIN S joins as a brand? One of the requirements of being global is to take part in organizations that offer both the opportunity for cooperation and the opportunity to measure the pulse of the world retail sector. This is because international promotion is an important part of our marketing strategy. In this sense, we do care about participating to such internationally-held fairs abroad. MAPIC 2017, the last fair we had attended, was a coordinating point that brought together prominent brands in the retail sector. In this respect, we had the opportunity to meet with several dedicated entrepreneurs who wanted to follow the significant game-changers in the sector while representing our brands in their countries. We will continue to participate in similar fairs in the up coming period. 052 How do global jean trends resonate in Colin s? Would you tell us about this season s prominent theme? We attach great importance to product range in our Jean collections. In our collection, there are jeans, shorts, skirts, dresses, shirts, vests and jackets that tick all the boxes of those who feel younger and especially the young between years old. In addition to classic and indispensable jean patterns, the new models and fits shaped in line with the seasonal trends are going to take place in our new collections. We have a wide range of products offering the latest trends to our consumers. This year, we will often encounter with jeans designs enriched with different washings, detailed legs, and accessories. One of two people is wearing Colin s in Russia. We can see the similar situation in 38 more countries. What is the success story behind this? Which markets you will be located in the near future? As COLIN S, we aim to mushroom in markets where the rate of the youth is densely high. Among the most important reasons to be pre-emptive in such markets, there lay our efforts following the latest trends in the fashion industry. Additionally, reflecting our collection in the best precise manner parallel to our customer s demands, our frock models, and fitly alternatives could also be exemplified among these reasons to be preferred. We can also quickly adopt the fashion trends and renew our product range every month. On the production and quality side, there is Eroglu Group, a specialist institution which has proven itself in jean production for many years and serves for the World-renowned brands. We also have the ability to take quick action through our shipping network from a single logistics center all over the world. In all the countries we are in, we carry out our activities in a customer-centered manner. In the countries where the products are sold, we take into consideration the characteristics of the young population of those countries.for example, we have jeans pants and snow breaker coats produced for the cold weather for the Russian region only. In addition to all these advantages, the strategies that we apply to each country by evaluating different market experiences correctly enable us to take a step forward in these regions..

53 COLIN S Jeans fest is happening in 600 stores located in 38 countries and also in colins.com.tr will it continue in the following years? Yes, it will definitely continue. We are trying to programme all our campaigns and make a stride in global vision, taking into consideration both our domestic and international markets. Jeans Fest is the most interesting campaign we have received in this respect. We have been carrying out Jeans Fest for about 8 years every August and September, by which our costomers will await excitedly. Jeans Fest, an important brand association at the same time, begins simultaneously both in Turkey and in the world. In 2017, we launched the campaign with an advertising film that we used young people, who were the target audience. In addition to our 5 largest stores, we have planned a wide-ranging campaign that includes events such as TV, cinema, social media and open air in the countries where we operate. Our campaign has drawn great interest from abroad mainly Russia, Ukraine, Romania, and Belarus. We also support our advertising projects via communication activities, and come together with the leading fashion writers and bloggers from all over the world. We get effective results when all of these achievments combined together. The reason why we are one of the 3 best-known jean brands in Russia and have been chosen the best clothing brand in the Retail Awards for 4 years in Ukraine and the most preferred brand in 2016 by youngsters in Belarus, are the result of our collaborative work What are the latest customer behaviours nowadays in the denim market? Today s technology has created a strong consumer profile that constantly communicates with each other, in and around the world, making consumers able to speak effectively on brands. At this very point, it is very important to pay attention to the expectations of the consumer by placing emphasize to technology at the clothing and retail levels. We use technology to increase productivity both in production and marketing and to strengthen customer satisfaction. We are closely following innovative developments that will accelerate us in the fields of production and logistics and try to integrate them into our production processes.

54 INTERVIEW 054 BANU YBONE Textile YENİCİ

55 Pls describe what denim & jeans means for you? I like the way of rebellion, freedom and diversity of denim& jean Whats your expectations for the future denim? Our generation only interested in to grow technology in this industry and now is our role S are getting more important to lead real sustainable chains.we re the ones who actually see and understand better effects of industrial revolutions to the mother earth.i take seroiusly Not only marketing numbers or campaigns to drive end consumers to sell more.instead encourage the real progresses and developments In production and marketing side of this business. And create the real standarts of ours with my denim colleagues who invested their life and passion on it.then coming generations keep up with us denim spirit thru cleaner perspective. If you had another chance what you would be your career? have another passion for your life? Architecture its all about people environment and culture.and gives you chance to add your creativity whats your doing on.same as denim industry. 055

56 Your favourite brands? Designers? Olivier Rousting creative director of Balmain Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Your favourite jean? Customized high waist second hand Levis from 80 s is my favourite item in my closet. but in daily work I also prefer high performanced stretch skinny jeans for its comfort. Your favourite city/place? Sure Istanbul is the best where I m leaving but as second choice London is my favourite.i like the vibe of streets and people.timeless and mixed. 056

57 What you want to say about Turkish denim industry? 057 Turkish denim community had made a great progress and became the leader of technology and creativity. Fabric mills and garment factories supplies best service and products to all denim and fashion brands for the last 10 years.as I worked for years with companies in different projects I would say as Turkish we re eager to be frontier and have potential to make it possible all ideas. Intelligence and creativity fuelled companies technological success in this country. Also proximity to the Europe always have been great advantage for us. But now is the most important thing is to keep up our place in the industry. For that reason I really take seriously which i ve been doing with UTIB organization for Turkish denim industry. Our aim is to support each single either be part of this organization or not and create brand and one voice of Turkish denim industry. In this level we are talking about branding our country and appreciate all partners inputs. If we drive the technology why not leverage made in Turkey brand. On the other hand world is about to change soon. All we know humanity facing up dynamic technology, change of climate, demographics, empowered consumer profiles&needs, scarcity of resources, robotics...etc. There is no only competition to deal with anymore. We are in position to manage all without sacrifying time. If we achieve to create synergy for us we may drive cleaner industries together.

58 INTERVIEW A YOUNG TURKISH DESIGNER IN CREATIVE ROOM: Selin Akman In this TFF Magazine volume, there is a young Turkish designer, Selin Akman. Having started to work in Iskocreative Room Italy, Selin thinks that Denim is a cult and that excitement is a never-ending invention. The designer who has been doing her job with great care and love decided to work with denim as soon as she graduated. In her designs, Selin says she likes to analyze and reflect people and she is inspired by every single detail in life Would you please introduce yourself? How long have you been working under the roof of Isko as a designer? 058 I am Selin (27) a Turkish Canadian designer living in Italy since I started working for Isko- Creative Room Italy 5 years ago. Creative Room Italy is the design department of Isko. I studied Fashion design In New York Fashion Institute of Technology and in Istanbul technical University. When I graduated, I decided I wanted to work in the Denim business but it was a bit hard because in University we never studied Denim so I decided to start from the core and learn everything I could about the denim fabric. Isko was the best place for me to achieve this. Designing denim has become a big passion for me throughout the years. Denim is a cult, an invention where the excitement never dies. I guess, at this point I cannot even think to live without it. With this fabric, I can do so many things. It is very variable and it is so interesting to see how the end-result can change through weaving, diversity of fibers, tinting, styling, washing, accessories and even labeling. Long story short, LOVE it. Isko is an internationally recognized brand. Would you briefly explain how isko contributes to world denim? Isko is one of the most important ingredient brand in the world. We can easily say this because Isko never stops inventing. Here in Isko we are always working on innovations. What is very important is that we all work in a team whereas following the trends and always being in contact with the R&D department on future trends on fabric also, we are always researching on new washing techniques and applications. This helps us to be always to the point in our collections and I believe we are very successful on this.

59 ISKO mission is to always keep in touch with the latest trends and also to anticipate times. ISKO s research centre is certified by the Turkish government and it consists of more than 25 textile engineers, specialists in creating new denim products. Thanks to its investments on innovation today ISKO is very strong with its patented technologies especially on elastic denim fabrics. Rather than this, ISKO has a strong ecocommitment, backed by sustainable production. 10% of new ISKO fabrics are produced from recycled materials, a filtration and treatment plant to clean water is used in the manufacturing process, to redirect the water for other industrial and household purposes. This helps us to create more ecosustainable designs. Would you like to talk a little bit about the effects of innovative approaches and researches on your designs? It is very interesting to have innovative fabrics that our R&D department works on because this pushes me to think of a different way of designing whereas being more ergonomic. I need to know the nature of the fabric to create the best design to have the use of stretch, comfort or other specialties of the fabric. This is also very important to create a story on my designs. No design can be made only because it is pretty it should always have a technical or performance story behind it. This pushes me a lot as a designer and it always widens my creativity. Here in Creative Room we also work with many different brands to help create their collections. Working with a wide range of brands and designers rather than only working for a brand makes you more creative and your brain should switch on, off and on again with another point of view. As much as it is tiring, it is very interesting and stimulating. Design trends in the world have a global structure. Do you follow trends closely as a designer and how do you blend these trends into your designs? How many creations are you producing per year? And how do you progress during the process of collection production? We create two collections in a year. Fall winter and spring summer collections. In addition to this in Creative room Italy, we make our own capsule collections every season focused on either one type of fabric or all the fabrics in the collection. The collections need a wide range of research for the fabric and for the styles. We spend a lot of time figuring out what is missing in the market and what can be new. We create the styles that match the best with the fabrics, choose the suitable wash and accessories and in the end, we apply the labeling in which we try our best to be always fashion forward. Every small touch is very important for us. Every small touch is very important for us. What are the advantages to work with denim fabric? Working with denim is very cool it is very versatile the end look of the garment differs so much on the style, fit, threads that we use and wash. I have so many ways that we can experiment. It is a living fabric; it fades and shapes according to its wearer. Denim is also in so many people s lives from many different lifestyles the look of it changes a lot. It changes if I am designing for an authentic denim wearer, a fashionista, a traveler, a sports lover, a skater Isko is one of the most important ingredient brand in the world. When we are creating a collection, it is not only fundamental to follow the trends on fits, styles, wash, accessories but also lifestyles and influencers. The world has become very personalized with the new technologies in social media instruments. I have to consider many characters in order to create a design that is suitable for them. I like to analyze the persons and reflect that in to my designs. Therefore, I cannot say I am following a trend. I sometimes even go with my instincts to see where the trend is heading through blogs, magazines, newspapers, films, music etc. I think to be a good fashion designer it is important to know everything that is going on in the world. When you are passionate about design, you never stop working. Anything you experience in your life inspires you. 059

60 Comfort is for sure very important in Denim. What kind of work do you usually perform so that people can experience coziness in clothing? Comfort is something that is usually very important in the denim world. We are always trying to develop fabrics and styles that makes the people s lives easier. Right now, we are developing a concept that is definitely very important for denim lovers that travel a lot and need their jeans with them anytime, anywhere but I am not yet to talk about it. I can talk about our blueskin performance, which has 360 degrees of stretch for the freedom What do you think will be the trends in the world s focus in the coming years? Denim world is getting larger and larger every single day. New designers are becoming more and more interested in denim. In Isko, we have the program Iskool in which we teach many fashion students how to work with denim. I believe in the future more and more new generation designers will understand the nature of denim and fall in love with it like I did and we will see more and more new innovative designs. 060 of movement. These articles are very important also in the sportive world, we also work a lot with special finishings such has wicking, odor reduce and breathable technologies that are very fundamental for the sports garments. Another line of fabric we have is warp stretch, which gives freedom of movement on the warp but holds the shape of the garments on weft, for me this is quite important especially in the women s market since we always want to look slimmer but we need also our comfort.

61 For the future trends, I can say usage of denim gets crazier and stranger where we move away from the traditional looks. In the last years, we had moved away from the skinny for women and moved on to wider silhouettes. I think this will continue and the most important trend will be to achieve this boyish rigid looks with comfort fabrics. Another trend that we see now and I believe it will continue for some time is the sports influence. I am a strong believer in premium authentic denim. This for me is something that will never die hopefully. I also believe the strong masculine washes will be a big trend in the future for women. For men s more rigid looking slim straight silhouettes not heavily washed but scraped down and resin effects with 3 dimension shaping will be important in the future of men s denim trend. I believe in the future more new generation designers will understand the nature of denim and fall in love with it like I did and we will see much more innovative designs. 061 Finally, anything you want to add... Please feel free to address your achievements, partnerships, and the areas you want to prioritize... Finally, I would like to say I it is a big pleasure for me to work with denim and I would like to see many more young designers working with this fabric because I cannot wait to see other people s reinterpretations, their ideas on this canvas. I am very happy to have had chosen my career around this field and cannot wait to create, invent and grow.

62 062

63 063

64 064 PINAR TAŞDELEN ENGİN ULUDAG TEXTILE EXPORTERS ASSOCIATION CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS

65 Would you like to introduce yourself in brief? Having completed my education in Textile Engineering in 1999, I started working life in Polyteks Textile, under the Taşdelen Group. Polyteks Textile was founded in 1986 by Mustafa Taşdelen, my father. In a short span of time, it has become one of Turkey s and Europe s largest and most reputable manufacturer of polyester yarns. I am currently on the management board of Taşdelen group where I had the chance to work in different positions in my 19 years of business life. I am engaging in introducing the products of the company on domestic and foreign markets, and the external relations of our companies along with our marketing team. As you well know, I was serving as the vice chairperson of the board of directors of Uludağ Textile Exporters Association. I was elected as the Chairperson of the Board of Directors at the general assembly meeting, held in April. As UTİB, we organize many national and international events in order to contribute to the achievements of Turkish textile exporters members and to represent the industry in the best way possible. These include congresses, workshops, Design Competitions, International R & D Project Markets, national participation in international fairs, procurement delegations, trend areas, and seminars. Our events are open to all members. We are working constantly for the development of our industry will be a year of mobilization for Turkey in the field of employment. What do you think will be the potential of the textile industry within this context and what tasks will be undertaken by UTİB through this policy? The textile sector is one of the locomotive sectors of the Turkish economy due to value-added and demonstrated performance. Moreover, it is one of the most employment-intensive sectors and of great importance to our country. The total number of people working in textiles and garments amount to 1 million. When we integrate industries such as retail and mass merchandising, this number approximately doubles to 2 million. Therefore, we contribute greatly to the social stability of our country. I think that the potential of the Turkish textile sector is extremely high, especially in terms of value-added production. In many countries of the world, many people; specifically those in the upper segment needs are using our textile products with pleasure. In the saturated and rising markets where competition is very dense like Europe and North America, our sector is exporting successfully. We have an extremely strong image in the global markets; we have a machine park with state-of-the-art technology, flexible production capability, the ability to produce special products, and a workforce with high qualifications. We have companies that receive international design awards. The game-changers in the industry are notable for their high-quality production capability, high production capacity and advanced technology, as well as trendy designs creating new trends. In this context, one of the main goals of our industry is to carry on long-term achievements through our brands. 065

66 066 What are the expectations for 2018 regarding the denim yarn production? Can you please tell us about the technologies that are currently leading in yarn production? Denim is an ever-growing sector in the world and never loses its importance. Consumers needs and fashion are dynamic and change every season. Denim has been one of the most successful textile sectors that closely pushes ahead this dynamism parallel with trends and innovations and even create its own trends. Denim fabrics are an integral part of our lives with because of its elasticity, close-fit, durable and comfortable features. The mobility we have seen in the denim sector in recent years continues unabated. As far as we see and follow, flat products are highly stylish, comfortable and popular in-demand due to close-fit feature, combinability with products of different styles, wearability in special and daily occasions. As Taşdelen Group, we are trying to support our customers, our business partners, in producing products that increase the competitiveness of the market and add value to them. In line with their expectations, we can produce differentiated products according to the distinctive area of utilization. Recently, we see increasing demand in yarns that improve the performance of clothes and prevent pot appearance. For this purpose, we are trying to meet the needs of our customers by developing high-quality yarns with flexibility and recyclability features and durability and moisture management. There is intensive work on recycling on textiles. All units in the textile chain began to take steps to reduce environmental pollution. The recycling sector is an important step in sustainable production and development and is a must to be supported. In this direction, we are trying to enrich our product range which is produced from the recycled raw material that we developed in our company.

67 In addition to the UTİB Presidency, you are undertaking the Chairperson of the Board of Directors at Polyteks. Would you briefly talk about your company s works on denim yarn and the innovative products that will be presented to the textile sector in the up-coming period? Trends in industry are constantly changing. We are continuously renewing our product range accordingly. At this point, keeping our product range up to date in line with the needs and demands of our business partners is our top priority. We are closely following the trends by attending many fairs, seminars and symposiums both at home and abroad. While consumer s expectations are increasing day to day, producers have to foresee these trends. Needless to say, a certain process is required for a product to be offered to the consumer and we are just at the beginning of this process as a raw material producer. We adopted developing new products and improving our product range continuously with R&D and P&D activities we have carried out with our customers as a principle. For example, we are currently producing yarns that give elasticity to the fabric, such as staple gipe yarns, mechanical stretch yarns, and PBT, a polyester derivative, obtained by combining polyester and polyamidines with elastanes. These products are widely used in denim sector thanks to their elasticity, soft touch, longevity and strength properties. Our newest generation of elastomultiester yarns, which have been recently added to our range of fabrics, providing flexibility and lycra performance, close-fit, comforting, soothing moves, draws considerable attention. We also produce with phosphorescent yarn shining in the dark. This product has also begun to be tested by denim firms. As Taşdelen group, our goal is to present at least two new products every year to the use of the denim sector. 067 What are the 2018 predictions on denim exports? Which markets will Turkish producers gravitate to in 2018? As a result of the investments made, we anticipate that the exports of our country will increase in 2018 compared to previous years. Turkey is among the most respected countries in the world in the value-added premium denim production. We must always invest in technology and innovation to protect our presence in the denim sector. Moreover, as in every field of production, design is one of the most important factors in raising the added value of products and in ensuring that you have a say in the international market. Our priority markets are mainly Europe and America. This year we want to increase our exports to the Far East market. As one of Turkey s most successful industry, One of the main goals of our denim sector should be to take a respectable and lasting place in international markets with our own brands.

68 068 Textiles, one of Turkey s leading sectors. Recently, e-commerce has become very important along with technological developments. How would you evaluate our brand s activities in this area? 2017 had been a very turbulent and challenging year worldwide. The new US administration s conservative economic approaches, the Brexit in European Union, the changes in the interest rate and the negative developments in the Middle East have created a turbulent period in the world economy. Our textile sector has succeeded to increase export under these tough conditions. As of the end of 2017, Uludağ Textile Exporters Association has realized export of 1 billion 177 million dollars with 3% increase compared to last year. Turkey s textile exports in a manner similar to our Association accounted to 8.1 billion dollars with an increase of 3% compared to last year. We also increased our exports 12% in the first month of In the first month of 2018 we achieved 12%. growth. Merchandising sector has been one of the sectors most affected by technological developments in recent years. When we look at Turkey, especially the last 10 years, we see that the choice of consumers shopping channels radically changed. Consumers nowadays can now meet all their needs more easily and faster on the internet. The increase in the importance of online shopping was also extremely profitable for brands. Brands can now reach far more customers at much smaller costs. Turkey is among the countries using the most all over the world. Brands also devote most of their investments to internet advertising and internet retailing. I think the importance of e-commerce will increase year to year..

69 Would you like to shed light on Turkey s current position in the apparel industry? As you know, Turkey is currently one of the first countries that pop up when you think of quality denim. The Turkish attitude from production to promotion, from quality standards to marketing has reached a very advanced level. As a country, we are the 3rd largest exporter in the world after China and Bangladesh in denim garment sector. Our European market share is around 11%, which is an important percentage, but I think we can reach 20% level by creating our own brands in this market. In this context, it is very important to add innovations to our successful branding process..turkey raises its significant importance in the world markets with its very successful and quality products in both weavings of denim fabrics and finishing operations together with apparel. Turkey has ranked third in the world in Denim fabric exports and as Taşdelen Group, we are one of the polyesters yarn suppliers of the most important denim manufacturers in Turkey. We are proud of knowing that the denim products containing the yarns we produced are exhibited in the most prestigious markets in the world. Turkish brands have succeeded in producing a brand awareness that can compete with the world in terms of denim. Projects like Turquality are very important to increase export potential and brand awareness. In this context, how do you scale the projects that are actualized in the field of textile in our country? The Turquality support program is a very important project that supports companies in an institutional, financial and operational sense. Turquality, in particular, has given a great deal of power to potential firms on the verge of becoming a global brand. In this way, I think that the integrative projects are very important for the promotion of our country. If we want our country to be more successful in the textile sector, we have to develop high value-added and innovative products. Therefore, all companies need to accelerate their R & D projects. Turkey is way too much advanced than many of its competitors in terms of international health and environmental standards. In technical textiles, we have a great potential that has not yet been fully realized. Bursa Technology Coordination and R & D Center carry out its activities in order to integrate the power potential of the game-changer in the sector to make them move in coordination and integrate the technical developments in the world without losing the follow-ups. 069

70

71 PARIS SEPT NEW SHOW DAYS WEDNESDAY to FRIDAY C L O U D O F F A S H I O N YARNS FABRICS LEATHER DESIGNS ACCESSORIES MANUFACTURING PARC DES EXPOSITIONS, PARIS NORD VILLEPINTE

72 INTERVIEW 072 Would you please tell us about yourself a bit? What does Denim mean to you? I live in Milan and have always been Passionate about Photography and Underground culture. I deal with publishing that rages from action sports, streetwear and Denim culture. I belong to a typical Italian family of the 60s immigrated to the north in search of work. At then time Denim was an essential indium for a low class family. Each piece was passed to the younger brother, every head was passed to the younger brother is my mother who was sarte sheltered the best very head these memories are those that will remain in me forever. The more I grew up and began to make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings.

73 CRISTIAN MURIANNI Charge of The Overall Magazine and Denim Boulevard What do you think about the denims place in daily life? In your opinion, how a good denim should be? A fabric with so much history I do not think it exists. It fascinates me to tell people how it has accompanied each af us in our lives. when the people understand the authenticity of this Fabric, a world of adventure and style opens up. I would like my work to be dedicated to denim communication showing its traditions and style. In the future they will collaborate with a fashion school (Acof) to start a course dedicated to denim with my point of view enhancing the authenticity an the history. 073 In Vintage denim you can taste the true use of this garment that tells itself how it was born where it born who used it and that i work in fact over the years.

74 074 Would you tell us about your experiments and works with denim? Do you work on vintage denim and what kind of other stuff you are working on except vintage denim? I live in Milan and have always been Passionate about Photography and Underground culture. I deal with publishing that rages from action sports, streetwear and Denim culture. I belong to a typical Italian family of the 60s immigrated to the north in search of work. At then time Denim was an essential indium for a low class family. Each piece was passed to the younger brother, every head was passed to the younger brother is my mother who was sarte sheltered the best very head these memories are those that will remain in me forever. '' It fascinates me to tell people how it has accompanied each of us in our lives '' The more I grew up and began to make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings.

75 075 '' The more I grew up and began to make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings. ''

76 INTERVIEW COLORFUL, SOPHISTICATED, UNIQUE TUKUTUKUM 076 All the products of TukuTukum, offering a colorful, joyful and luxurious world to its customers, are handmade and produced in Turkey. The name of TukuTukum is named after the designer and at the same time means the passion of Tuğba. The designer, who says women must be brave and reflect their style, defines the target group of his brand as powerful, bold and fashionable women who believe in creativity, quality, and design. As TFF Magazine, we have listened to Tuğba Kuzdere Yorgancıoğlu, the designer of TukuTukum, whom we had an enjoyable interview with regarding the story of TukuTukum s unique designs especially designed for the brand. Would you like to detail the story of TukuTukum s brand? Hi, first of all thank you for the interview. I am Tugba Kuzdere Yorgancioglu, born in Istanbul went to Ankara for the university and did my masters of fashion marketing management in Milan. Worked for Ugo Cacciatori and Costume National in Milan then came back to Istanbul and ran an agency of fashion consultany for designers and brands. In 2014 my baby TukuTukum was born and in 2016 I got an investment from Arya Womens Platform. I created TukuTukum to combine the quality of production in Turkey with unique and modern patterns. All our products are handmade and made in Turkey also the patterns are unique because I draw them specificially for the brand. The name of TukuTukum comes my name and also refers to the passion of Tugba. We are available in Vakkorama, Wepublic, Giziagate, Thesky, S9 Boutuque / Ankara, Touch & Feel / İzmir, Lookbook Designers/ Adana. Shop online at: And we do export in countries

77 What kind of products do you have in Tukutukum s product range and how do you define the target mass of your brand? I work also as a stylist and I don t believe in fashion trends. Women has to be brave and reflect her style in each moment so do the TukuTukum lovers. They are strong, brave and stylish women who believes in creativity, quality and design. 077 I have started with silk scarves, now we do have bandanas, beachwear, bags and winter accessories. The color range of TukuTukum is very large and the designs are striking. How do you explain your brand s design philosophy? Believe in yourself, reflect your soul with patterns and color your day with TukuTukum! such as: Maldives, Australia, China...

78 078 The accessories are actually big complemantary supplements. What inspires you when you carry out your designs? I am inspired by cultures, my travels and nature. Also strong caracters I meet or we all now as celebrities inpire me a lot. What are the elements that stand out the most in your new collection? Nature, the caracteristic of animals and the spiritual things we believe in such as evil eye.

79 079 What are the future goals of your brand? We do want increase our global sales points and have a concept store in Turkey. Finally, anything you want to add.. Come and discover this colorful, enjoyable, luxury world wit us. You can follow us from our social media accounts: tukutukum.

80 Yunus & Eliza INTERVIEW 080 We interviewed Yunus & Eliza who do some of the jewellery designing for Game of Thrones with Michele Clapton, the tv series followed by millions. We discussed their inspirations, how they found them self in the Tv series and so on... Yunus & Eliza has won a lot of awards and looks like we will see them a lot in 8th season of Game of Thrones. Can you tell us about yourself as Yunus Ascott and Eliza Higginbottom? How did you come up to start together with the idea of building your Yunus & Eliza Jewellry Y- We met in a fine art casting foundry in West London where I was finishing a master apprenticeship. E- The brand itself was an accident, we made a small sculpture and realized it worked as a ring, a journalist saw it when Yunus was wearing it out one night, and asked to feature it in the paper. He asked our brand name and we laughed, shrugged and said Yunus & Eliza? You are designing the Game Of Thrones line. What inspiration did you make when designing these jewels? Will this partnership with the tv series continues in the future? E- We work closely with the Game of Thrones costume designer Michele Clapton, so we are inspired by the storylines of the characters, what the piece of jewelry needs to reveal about the wearer, for example Khaleesi s jewelry symbolizes her warrior status, and juxtaposes both her strength and fragility. Y- Yes, Season 8 filming is taking place now, using pieces we have designed especially. These designs can be bought online from our sister company

81 You also took place in Design Week created by Ministry of Economy and Turkey Exporters Assembly. How was your experience in this event? Y- We loved it. We were very impressed with the event, and enjoyed our panel discussion. E- It was a real treat to be in Istanbul, what an inspiring city. You have indicated that you are inspired by sculptors in your designs. What elements do you consider when you reveal a jewel? E- We think about form as a whole, the back and side of our pieces will be as considered as much as the front, the design should resonate. Y- Yes, people often comment that owning a piece of Yunus & Eliza is like owning a sculpture, something monumental and empowering. Despite being a fairly young brand, in 2010 you won the talent award given by the British Council and Elle magazine, as well as the Designer of the Year award at the 2011 London Jewel Week. Can you tell us about these awards, process to get them and what they mean to you both? Y- The BFC / ELLE Talent Launch Pad was a very pivotal moment for us, we joined the fashion scene. E- We went from being relatively unknown to having Helena Christensen wearing only our jewels on the front cover of the ELLE UK 25 year anniversary edition. we are inspired by the storylines of the characters 081 How do you reflect your creativity elements in your designs? Are there any other objects you are designing besides accessories? E Yes, we create bespoke interior for many clients. We did a chandelier for the jewelry editor of British Vogue. Y- We enjoy working on this larger scale. We are designing door handles, taps and baths for a hotel at the moment.

82 082 All of your designs are handmade, each accessory you created is a piece of art, do you only work for special customers who order a custom thing? Or anybody can find and buy your jewelries? If yes, where they can find them? E All our work is custom made, but customers can buy signature pieces which we make to order.

83 All our work is custom made And last question specially for Mr. Yunus. Do you think Turkish culture has an effect on your design works? 083 Y I think there is no doubt I have been inspired by coming to Turkey often as a child, by my grandparents and my mother s culture.

84 084

85 THE METROPOL CITY OF DENIM: LONDON From the world s first subway system to the London Underground, from traffic lights to the theater and historical buildings that built on every street as to journey you through time, London has always been a city in the lead to many intriguing places to visit and see, and it also harbors areas where the heart of fashion beats.. DISCOVER LONDON S STREET There are so many great attractions to tick off, your city sightseeing checklist could get very long indeed. Oxford Street is at the top of the must-see places that simply cannot be missed. You can buy any kind of affordable product from shopping malls on the street and find the opportunity to relieve in cafés. Piccadilly Circus is hosting to Lord Shaftesbury statue that you are familiar with the cinema. The area, crowded at night, is also very attractive due to its colorful human circulation. Located in the West End of London, Covent Garden is renowned for its luxury fashion and beauty stores as well as award-winning restaurants and theatres like Royal Opera House. Let s not forget the London s biggest bookstore which is located here in Stanfords. Baker Street is home to Sherlock Holmes s famous house 221b. Now the house number 221b is being used as the Sherlock Holmes Museum. London s famous Madame Tussauds Museum is also on this street. Buckingham Palace is striking as the official residence and workplace of the royal family. In this region, you can visit Queen s Gallery and Big Ben, where the royal family s collections are exhibited. Among other must-see places, you should see London EYE, Tower Bridge, Greenwich Observatory, Shakespeare s Globe Theater, Warner Bros Studios, The British Museum, Natural History Museum and Tate Modern... London, continiously on the front burner thanks to the fashion weeks organized, have succeeded in attracting the attention Fashion lovers. If you are planning to shop in the city, we surely recommend you take a look at the rest of our caption. Fashion s Dazzling Adventure is on London Streets... Harrods Shopping Center is the world s most famous department store online with the latest men s and women s designer fashion, luxury gifts, food, and accessories... Nudie Jeans Nudie, a Swedish denim brand, also offers a lot of possibilities for denim lovers in re-using their denim s in London store.. A.P.C A.P.C, a French ready-to-wear brand, founded in 1987 by the Tunisian-Jewish born designer Jean Touitou, is one of the denim stores you can visit on Redchurch Street... Topshop Another shop on Oxford Street is the world famous Topshop. We don t necessarily have to tell that each of its Denim collection is indissociably and astonishingly beautiful. Start Boutique Designed by stylist Brix Smith-Start, the Start Boutique is located on Rivington Street. The store, offering both men s and women s department in the interior, reveals collections that is the appeal to everyone... Fleur B Fleur Bird is the owner of the fleur b boutiques in Duke Street and Chelsea Green in London, opened in When you take a look at Fleur B, situated in 8 Elystan Street, London, You will see clothes inspired by Denim s of Anne, Paige and Victoria Beckham, ready-made garments from Carven and Goat and Ellie Lines and the 1970s.. Trilogy If there is a well-sewed jean that perfectly designed for you, Trilogy team has a reputation for finding it. In the store, there are plenty of products as well as brand new products coming from AG, Current Elliott, and J Brand.. 085

86 LONDON FASHION CITY 086 From the punks, mods and casuals right through to the modern day grime renaissance, London has a long street culture history, the presence of which can be felt all across the city s (and world s) fashion landscape. Whether it s Cottweiler reinterpreting tracksuits through an avant-garde, minimalist lens, Nasir Mazhar s no-holds-barred celebration of London s diverse underground music scenes or Palace Skateboard s throwback adidas athletic gear, London s crop of young brands are reinterpreting their country s illustrious subcultural heritage for the 21st century, spearheading a new wave of avant-garde streetwear in the process. Cultural Diversity While New York is an ever-changing whirlpool of fickle trends and Paris and Milan hold the keys to the world s opulent luxury houses, London s spirit is above all one of diversity. It is a hugely diverse, fiercely independent city that has immense pride in its many unique movements from grime MCs to aged Camden punks and Jamaican reggae heads giving it an energy that cannot be found anywhere else, and ensuring that it s designers have an ever-evolving, rich world of subcultures from which to draw inspiration from.from Vivienne Westwood through John Galliano and Alexander McQueen London is the city brought fashion s most outrageous designers. The support that Britain offers to its young designers whether they were born in London is unrivalled. Importantly, the guidance from institutions like the British Fashion Council encourages creativity and personality nobody s telling anyone to rein in their ideas to appeal to the mass market, or that unique breed of human who buys everything through a personal shopper. Presents the best independent retailers, department stores and spanking new London flagships that offer the finest menswear in the country - and a wish list of items.

87 Liberty Regent Street, W1 This iconic arts and crafts, founded in 1875, building plays host to the best of British and global designers. Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge, SW1 This townhouse boutique in Knightsbridge holds a concise edit of key pieces from international designers and a wide selection of cult items from Californian and Japanese denim. Harrods Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1 The world s most famous store has a luxurious international portfolio to match, including the finest leather goods and watches. Dover Street Market Haymarket, SW1 The offer includes every CDG line and top fashion names including Gucci and Palace. Oxford Street High street brands TopShop,River Island,M&S,Next,All Saints,Debenhams...etc Carnaby St The Kooples Channelling a French oh so cool vibe combined with British dapper tailoring, The Kooples make the just-get-out-ofbed look cool for guys and girls. Think vintage style with modern twists, but the clothes are designed to look good in any era. Great for stocking up on the wardrobe essentials that make every look work. Scotch & Soda Dutch high street brand Scotch & Soda has burst onto the fashion scene in the last few years with their well made basics think great T-shirts and denim jackets that will last for years. Vintage styles are here for sure, but they re not so in your face and some of the men and women s ranges could double up as work wear. The Carnaby Street store also has the Amsterdam Blauw denim collection. 087 Selfridges 400 Oxford Street, W1 The Oxford Street flagship boasts the world s one of best shopping place. Soho, with its network of tiny streets and endless eating options. Soho has some of London s most unique and most brilliant shopping. From picking up boxfresh rare trainers to rummaging in the best vintage stores you re guaranteed to come away with something unusual and there are plenty of new designers to discover along the way. Vintage and second hand In the East End of London lies one of the most culturally mixed and artistically fruitful areas: Shoreditch. Home of the cozy Book Club, the historic Golden Heart and the worldrenowned Whitechapel Gallery, Shoreditch is renowned for its abundance of wondrous vintage outlets. We find ten of the best vintage shops in Shoreditch. Blondie Vintage,Absolute vintage,blitz,rokit Vintage,Vintage Heaven,Beyond Retro,Blondie are the some of them.

88 GLOBAL DENIM MARKET & TURKEY in brief 088 New actors in denim fabric export have emerged in global markets. China Pakistan Turkey India and Egypt have increased their productiona and exports USA Italy Mexico Brazil Spain have reduced their denim fabric production and exports during the last years Source: ITC Trademap Turkey s denim textile export was realized as 369 million USD in Tunisia, Egypt, Italy, Morocco and Bangladesh are the top 5 markets we export. Source: ITC Trademap

89 2017 Turkey has exported 1.7 billion dollars of of denim clothing. During the last 15 years Turkey s denim clothing exports increased 4 times. the main market of Turkey s denim clothing exports is Europe. Countries with the largest share in Turkey s denim clothing exports, respectively; Spain, Germany, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands and Denmark. In 2017, we achieved increase in our exports 8 of our top 10 markets. Source: ITC Trademap In 2017, million denim garments were exported to Spain with an increase of 22%. 19% of total exports of clothing is made in this country. In the same period, our exports to Germany increased by 7% to USD million. We exported $ million worth of denim clothing with an increase of 8% to the UK, which is our third export partner. 089 Source: ITC Trademap Source: ITC Trademap When we have a look at our competitors: ITALY (From was leading the textile industry in terms of design and fashion. Now Turkey is taking its position) GERMANY (High value added products, technical textiles, at the same time, our partner and competitor in the Europen Market) CHINA (World number one producer and exporter of textiles and clothing, competition in terms of costs is difficult) INDIA (Backward in terms of technology and innovation but undergoing extensive transformation through high investment in these areas) PAKISTAN (difficult to compete in intermediate goods due to low costs) UTIB Ekrem Arslan

90 090

91 091

92 denim kitap Indigo: The Color that Changed the World Catherine Legrand Indigo is a color that has shaped many cultures throughout history and has an important place in textile design. In the book; Indigo: The Color that Changed the World, the author Catherine Legrand searches for this mysterious backdrop of color and unveils the methods that reflect the indigo color. This book, presenting a fascinating study on the history of color is investigating the production of Indigo textile products in this region by stretching to Japan, China, India, Africa, Central America, Laos, and Vietnam. The book, which contains more than 500 photographs, reveals the variety and process of the Indigo application. Catherine Legrand, who has been traveling for over twenty years and has been researching on the subject, has worked for years, exploring the various cultures of the world in order to bring together countless clothing, human figures, and fabrics from the Indigo world. 092 denim film The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants, where Ken Kwapis sits in director s chair, has a story adapted into a film of the same name by Ann Brashares. In the cast of the film, which was produced in 2005; there is Amber Tamblyn, America Ferrera, Alexis Bledel and Blake Lively. The story of the film goes as follows: Tibby, Lena, Carmen, and Bridget are four female friends who get along very well. Four best girlfriends hatch a plan to stay connected with one another as their lives start off in different directions: they pass around a pair of secondhand jeans that fits each of their bodies perfectly.despite being of various shapes and sizes, each one of them fits perfectly into the pants. To keep in touch they pass these pants to each other as well as the adventures they are going through while apart. The film emphasizes the importance of Denim in our lives while shedding light on the fashion of the period. The film, which makes you deeply feel the feeling of friendship, also gives the message that life is worth living and is good, despite all the negativity.

93 Denim s place in the music world has stepped up with the icons of the music market and has become the indispensable part the whole world. Jean pants from timeless pieces of the fashion world are indispensables of the stage giants. DENIM AS AN INSPIRATION TO MUSIC 093 Because of its worldwide popularity and being an alternative clothing option, denim took its place among the designs of world-renowned fashion giants. Offering a great sense of comfort, chicness, and timelessness, it is always at the peak.

94

95

96