rise of the haute couture

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4 4 rise of the haute couture Launched in New York in 1892, Vogue had a coverline of Fashion, Manners, Society, The House, Literature, Art, Music, Drama. Fashion was only a small part of the magazine, as the industry was still in its infancy. The early 1900s marked the rise of the haute couture movement in Paris. Women of the upper classes coveted the Parisian designs, which set the tone for the rest of the Western fashion world. These designs debuted at horse races, and Vogue took on the role of informing the public about what was going on, who was going where, and what was being worn. Corsets and full skirts enhanced unnatural curves, and hats grew out of control. However, as World War I began in 1914, attention and resources were drawn away from fashion. British Vogue launched in 1916, but the emotional and economic consequences of war were making androgynous dressing more popular.

The Roaring 20's 5 By the time World War I ended, women were used to their freedom and independence, and their clothing maintained its wartime masculinity with loose, shapeless fits and flattened

This style epitomized modernity and reckless rebellion.

5 The Roaring 20's 5 By the time World War I ended, women were used to their freedom and independence, and their clothing maintained its wartime masculinity with loose, shapeless fits and flattened busts. Corsets became a thing of the past. Designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel rose to prominence during this decade. The consummate image of the 1920s, the flapper, did not fully emerge until This style epitomized modernity and reckless rebellion. Flappers wore daringly short hair and short shift dresses that exposed their limbs, and they applied makeup, smoked with long cigarette holders, and drank in public. Since the straight shift dresses were simple to make at home, flapper style was more attainable for the masses. The Wall Street Crash of 1929 kicked off the Great Depression, from which the general public escaped through Hollywood. The movies became the new glamorous medium for fashion. As another war seemed imminent, clothing became more functional and military-inspired with square shoulders. Techniques for mass production of uniforms carried over into the creation of ready-to-wear fashion. Once World War II was underway, clothes became even more restrained. Cloth was severely rationed. Uniforms were commonly seen in public.

Post war era 6 Once World War II ended, newcomer Christian Dior rebelled against the austerity of the time and produced an extravagant design of a fitted jacket with a cinched waist and a full

6 Post war era 6 Once World War II ended, newcomer Christian Dior rebelled against the austerity of the time and produced an extravagant design of a fitted jacket with a cinched waist and a full calf-length skirt using ten to eighty yards of fabric. This style, dubbed the "New Look," would prove to be a turning point in the postwar. Dior's designs became extremely popular, as women were longing to dress femininely and frivolously again. Chanel countered the voluminous look with boxy suits and slim skirts in tweed. Synthetic fabrics (nylon, polyester, and acrylic) became more widely used because they were affordable and easy to maintain. A consumer market was born, and for the first time, teenagers became a force in the fashion market as a result of influences such as music and film.

Flower power era 7 While the 1950s introduced teenagers to fashion and society in general, the youth were the leaders of the sixties, which was a colorful decade in many ways.

7 Flower power era 7 While the 1950s introduced teenagers to fashion and society in general, the youth were the leaders of the sixties, which was a colorful decade in many ways. Two subcultures of young British people, the Mods and Rockers, were at odds. The Rockers tended to wear clothes like black leather jackets, whereas the Mods were more stylish and bohemian. By 1966, designer Mary Quant popularized the miniskirt, which appealed to bold young women. America's answer was the hippie movement. This youth subculture spawned trends like bell-bottom jeans and tie-dyed shirts. Fashion icons included the understated Jackie Kennedy and the creation of the supermodel, the most famous one being Twiggy. Men wanted to dress like the Beatles.

8 8 1970's Saturday night fever Increased ease of travel meant that fashion had more global, ethnic inspirations. The disco dance craze led to widespread use of polyester, which was ideal for creating tight, stretchy clothing that shone under disco lighting. These flashy styles reflected the social revolution and openness that defined the decade. The late seventies gave rise to punk, an anti-fashion anarchistic movement.

9 9 1980's Materialism defined this decade, as the western world experienced an economic boom. The power suit became a symbol of the eighties, especially after John Molloy argued in his book Women s Dress for Success that women would need such a suit to climb the corporate ladder. People flaunted designer brands as symbols of wealth. Increased use of credit cards encouraged spending. The creation of MTV revolutionized the music industry by turning musicians into television stars who had the power to influence through fashion and visuals in addition to music. Princess Diana also became a fashon icon during this time.

10 1990's Minimalism As technology made working from home more feasible and offices instituted Casual Fridays, fashion became more laidback and comfortable.

10 's Minimalism As technology made working from home more feasible and offices instituted Casual Fridays, fashion became more laidback and comfortable. In contrast to the excessive consumerism and gaudy color palette of the eighties, 1990s style veered toward a more minimalist aesthetic with lots of black and neutral colors. The fashion industry blossomed the most in the United States, where Calvin Klein used overtly sexual advertisements to shock a supposedly "unshockable" nation. Grunge was an alternative rock subculture that began in Seattle and spawned a style of unkempt dressing

11 2000's This decade is strong evidence that fashion is cyclical. A major trait of new millennium fashion has been recycled trends with futuristic twists.

11 's This decade is strong evidence that fashion is cyclical. A major trait of new millennium fashion has been recycled trends with futuristic twists. The dreaded eighties shoulder pad has been reworked as the architectural shoulder. Current boot-cut and flared jeans are toned-down versions of bell-bottoms. Both real vintage and vintage-inspired clothes have become popular. The boho hippie look has come back in fashion thanks to celebrities like the Olsen twins.

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13 13 Now T ry your luck at some general Knowledge Q Complete the phrase 'Posh and To which top supermodel was Richard Gere once married? What world famous fashion magazine did Conde Nast purchase in 1909? Name two exotic dances that took off globally in the 1990s and encouraged women to wear prettier dresses? Which 1990s designer made dresses that hugged the body like a bandage wrap? Who is famous for her wrap dresses? What does Philip Treacy mainly design? What accessories are Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo all associated with? Which two individuals are credited with bringing Punk fashion as a style to a wider market? Name two other well respected designers who have featured refined punk in their fashion lines at least a decade or more ago? Name two popular hairstyles of the 1950s or 1960s. Which ancient peoples used brooches or pin to hold their clothing together? What and who used swaddling? What was a Bum Roll? Who has been the main designer at Chanel since the 1980s? Name the designer team who made Diana's wedding dress? Who had a perfume designed especially for her, starred in Breakfast at Tiffany's and was the film star muse of Hubert de Givenchy Find The Answers Towards The Back Page

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15 Quiz Answers lets see how well you did 15 A Becks Cindy Crawford Vogue. The Salsa and Lambada. The use of Lycra in all sorts of clothes increased and sexy styles based on bandage designs initially worked by Azzedine Alaïa were especially popular with women with good figures. Diane Von Furstenberg. Philip Treacy mainly designs hats and accessories. He designed the hats for Camilla at her recent wedding to Prince Charles. Gorgeous shoes! In the 1990s status shoes such as those by Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and Italian brands by Prada, Gucci and others took on a new importance as fashion itself became cleaner and more minimal and pared down. Punk as a style succeeded even more when Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren formerly Malcolm Edwards, publicized the ideas through their joint design ventures. McLaren launched the 'Sex Pistols' Punk music group. The punk group wore clothes from a shop called 'Sex' that Vivienne Westwood and her partner McLaren opened on the Kings Road, London. They sold leather and rubber fetish goods, especially bondage trousers. Later the shop was renamed Seditionaries. Not long after, Westwood launched alone renaming the same shop as 'World's End'. Westwood was soon translating her ideas into the fresher Pirate and Romantic looks. The collections were innovative, but were spoken of as unwearable, yet so often other designers picked up on ideas she had instigated and soon started another new trend. Around 1977, Zandra Rhodes the British dress designer, took elements of the punk style and used it in her collections making refined and more elegant versions in bright colours which were more acceptable to the rich and famous. She used gold safety pins and gold chains to connect and decorate uneven hems and slashed holes. The carefully placed holes were edged with gold thread and the hems adorned with exquisite embroidery. She had always coloured her hair with exotic colours and worn it as a form of plumage. Watered down punk chic worked its way to the top end of the market. Versace too, also decorated dresses with large safety pins, most notably a black dress that Liz Hurley wore to accompany Hugh Grant at the premiere of the film 'Four Weddings And A Funeral' in about Popular hairstyles in the 1950s and 60s were the poodle cut and the French pleat and later the 60's beehive. After Dusty Springfield's beehive came the Beatle cut and Vidal Sassoon's five point cut bobbed style. Mary Quant sported a sharp Sassoon haircut. A method popular among Greeks and Romans 3000 years ago. Swaddling was practised long ago by binding arms and legs of young Greek infants in swaddling cloths. This restricted the movement and kept the limbs straight. Sixteenth century lady wore bum rolls to support the folds of skirt fabric surrounding the waist. Karl Lagerfeld. David and Elizabeth Emanuel. Audrey Hepburn.

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Fashion History Now

Fashion History Now Fashion History 1900- Now Thorstein Veblen Theory of the Leisure Class Conspicuous Consumption Very useful in describing how fashion worked in early 1900s. Silhouette is still pinched in the middle but