TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE

Transcription

1 TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE and the technologies that make them possible Vol.3 Jason Dearden-Watts Senior Technical Development Manager Personal Care Dana Smith Laboratory Development Chemist Personal Care

2 Stand 429

3

4 Remove labels that are based on simple characteristics like age, gender, geographical location and sociodemographics In the US, 67% of Millennials and 52% of Generation X consumers feel more diversity has a good impact on society Brands can reposition to reflect acceptance, unity, and equality Mintel

5 Google Trends

6 Google Trends

7 Google Trends

8 Google Trends

9

10 Every day cleaning Define Yourself Universal youthful Condition your hair Rebalance Your to Make Your with Multifaceted moisturisation from the Outside to Individual Scent Uniqueness Shine Texture Restore the with no sticky Through Individual Within Issues with this Roll on deodorant

11 Every day cleaning Define Yourself Universal youthful Condition your hair Rebalance Your to Make Your with Multifaceted moisturisation from the Outside to Individual Scent Uniqueness Shine Texture Restore the with no sticky Through Individual Within Issues with this Roll on deodorant

12 Water Aqua - Solvent Merquat 2001 Polyquaternium 47 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 0.50 Merquat 2003 PR Polyquaternium-53 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 1.00 TEGO Betaine F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries Amphoteric Surfactant Erylite F 8030 F Erythritol Jungbunzlauer Humectant 2.00 STEPAN-MILD LSB Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate; Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan Anionic Surfactant Saliguard PBC Phenoxyethanol; Benzyl alcohol; Chlorphenesin Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00 NINOL CAA Dimethyl Lauramide / Myristamide Stepan Nonionic Surfactant 1.00 Vanilla & Tonka Bean Fragrance Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.40 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride - Thickening Agent 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide (20% solution) Sodium Hydroxide - ph Adjuster 0.02

13 Water Aqua - Solvent Merquat 2001 Polyquaternium 47 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 0.50 Merquat 2003 PR Polyquaternium-53 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 1.00 TEGO Betaine F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries Amphoteric Surfactant Erylite F 8030 F Erythritol Jungbunzlauer Humectant 2.00 STEPAN-MILD LSB Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate; Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan Anionic Surfactant Saliguard PBC Phenoxyethanol; Benzyl alcohol; Chlorphenesin Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00 NINOL CAA Dimethyl Lauramide / Myristamide Stepan Nonionic Surfactant 1.00 Vanilla & Tonka Bean Fragrance Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.40 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride - Thickening Agent 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide (20% solution) Sodium Hydroxide - ph Adjuster 0.02

14 Milder than SLS / SLES Rich and Creamy Foam Biodegradable Sulphate Free

15 NINOL CAA Fragrance solubiliser Foam boosting Enhances viscosity & mildness Viscosity Building PEG 40 HCO % NaCL

16 2003 PR Guar / Amodimethicone Aminopropyl Phenyl Tirmethicone PQ-55 Quaternium 91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl alcohol 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.10% 0.2% Improves foam stability Provides dense creamy foam 60% Improvement in wet combing 40% Improves the softness & 20% smoothness of hair Enhances colour protection

17 Zones

18 New launches The rise of masks in Europe Mintel GNPD

19 New launches Europe's top 5 mask markets 80 France Germany Russia Poland UK Mintel GNPD

20 Popular mask applications Other, 4.29% Eye Care, 4.94% Sun - After Sun, 1.82% Hand/Nail Care, 4.94% Foot Care, 7.79% Face/Neck Care, 76.23% Mintel GNPD

21 Market examples Zones DERMA9 Masks GLAMGLOW - Masks

22 Formulation Concept Zones I T S Digit-all Open your eyes to Send acne down a black Highlight your dull day Digit-all detox for the youthful skin hole with this charcoal infused T Zone mask with a shimmer brightening S Zone mask future you

23 Formulation Concept Zones I T S Digit-all Open your eyes to Send acne down a black Highlight your dull day Digit-all detox for the youthful skin hole with this charcoal infused T Zone mask with a shimmer brightening S Zone mask future you

24 Zones - S Trade Name INCI Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 49.45% Carbopol Ultrez 30 Carbomer Lubrizol Rheology Modifier 0.25% Gold Mica Mica Sandream Impact Colourant 4.50% SURFAC G995V Glycerin Surfachem Humectant 39.50% TEGO Cosmo C250 1-Methylhydantoine-2-Imide Evonik Industries Brightening 1.00% HyaCare 50 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Evonik Industries Plumping Active 1.00% TEGO Cosmo C100 Creatine Evonik Industries Moisturising 1.00% TEGO Pep 4 Even Saliethanol TEGO Solve 61 Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol; Aqua Phenoxyethanol Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate Evonik Industries Collagen Boosting 1.00% Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% Evonik Industries Solubiliser 1.00% Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.30%

25 Zones - S Trade Name INCI Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 49.45% Carbopol Ultrez 30 Carbomer Lubrizol Rheology Modifier 0.25% Gold Mica Mica Sandream Impact Colourant 4.50% SURFAC G995V Glycerin Surfachem Humectant 39.50% TEGO Cosmo C250 1-Methylhydantoine-2-Imide Evonik Industries Brightening 1.00% HyaCare 50 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Evonik Industries Plumping Active 1.00% TEGO Cosmo C100 Creatine Evonik Industries Moisturising 1.00% TEGO Pep 4 Even Saliethanol TEGO Solve 61 Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol; Aqua Phenoxyethanol Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate Evonik Industries Collagen Boosting 1.00% Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% Evonik Industries Solubiliser 1.00% Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.30%

26 Technical Focus - TEGO Cosmo C250 Reduces melanin content 1.2 Increase in skin brightening (L*) relative to vehicle [%] Brighter appearance % Enhanced reflectance Hot or cold processable % Kojic Acid TEGO Cosmo C250 After 8 weeks Water soluble After 4 weeks INCI: 1-Methylhydatoin-2-Imide

27 Technical Focus - Carbopol Ultrez 30 Cushioned and rich skin feel Excellent product aesthetics Easy to disperse Good electrolyte tolerance Low ph tolerance INCI: Carbomer

28 Technical Focus - Sandream Impact Skin radiance and brightening Subtle through to glitter effects Adding subtle colour, healthy glow Wide range of substrates and coatings INCI: Depending on substrate and colour

29

30 New launches The popularity of Spa products Mintel GNPD

31 New launches The popularity of Spa products Mintel GNPD

32 New launches 136% The popularity of Spa products Mintel GNPD

33 Spa application areas Foot Care 4% Face/Neck Care 4% Liquid Soap 4% Sets 8% Bar Soap 3% Sun - Sun/Sunbed Exposure 2% Body Care 29% Hand/Nail Care 13% Shower Products 19% Bath Additives 14% Mintel GNPD

34 Spa Claim Exfoliating 4% Aromatherapy 5% Long-Lasting 4% Time/Speed 8% ph Neutral 4% Paraben Free 15% Vitamin/Mineral Fortified 3% Botanical/Herbal 26% Moisturising / Hydrating 16% Ethical - Animal 15% Mintel GNPD

35 Market examples Chillax Elemis CND - Spa

36 Formulation Concept Chillax Head Face Body Hands Feet Rich, kind care for Indulge your skin Rub away your Treat dry cuticles A rich feel cream your scalp and for with a calming stresses and with a healthy for luxury your comfort coco chill-out release your free hemp butter relaxation cleanse spirit with the relaxing power of hemp Oil

37 Formulation Concept Chillax Head Face Body Hands Feet Rich, kind care for Indulge your skin Rub away your Treat dry cuticles A rich feel cream your scalp and for with a calming stresses and with a healthy for luxury your comfort coco chill-out release your free hemp butter relaxation cleanse spirit with the relaxing power of hemp Oil

38 Chillax Head - Formulation Trade Name Inci Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 73.50% SURFAC DL Panthenol Surfachem Conditioning 0.50% LACTIL Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid Evonik Industries Moisturising 2.00% VARISOFT EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 1.00% SURFAC CS Cetearyl Alcohol Surfachem Stabiliser 3.00% TEGIN M Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries Emulsifier 3.00% VARISOFT BTMS Cetearyl Alcohol; Behentrimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 4.00% VIATENZA Apricot PO10 Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Aldivia Emollient 1.00% Grapeseed Oil Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50% Hemp Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Aldivia Conditioning 1.00% Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50 SURFAC ARC 165 Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate Surfachem Emulsifier 4.00% Saliethanol Phenoxyethanol Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% HairFlux Ceramide NG; Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil Evonik Industries Scalp Health 1.00% Kaolim Kaolin - De-toxifying 5.00% Red 33 (1% soln.) Red 33 - Colourant 0.30% ELLA 34 Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.50%

39 Chillax Head - Formulation Trade Name Inci Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 73.50% SURFAC DL Panthenol Surfachem Conditioning 0.50% LACTIL Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid Evonik Industries Moisturising 2.00% VARISOFT EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 1.00% SURFAC CS Cetearyl Alcohol Surfachem Stabiliser 3.00% TEGIN M Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries Emulsifier 3.00% VARISOFT BTMS Cetearyl Alcohol; Behentrimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 4.00% VIATENZA Apricot PO10 Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Aldivia Emollient 1.00% Grapeseed Oil Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50% Hemp Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Aldivia Conditioning 1.00% Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50 SURFAC ARC 165 Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate Surfachem Emulsifier 4.00% Saliethanol Phenoxyethanol Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% HairFlux Ceramide NG; Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil Evonik Industries Scalp Health 1.00% Kaolim Kaolin - De-toxifying 5.00% Red 33 (1% soln.) Red 33 - Colourant 0.30% ELLA 34 Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.50%

40 Technical Focus - HairFlux Bio-inspired Ceramide Improves the overall scalp health by reducing itching, dryness & erythema Outstanding repair efficacy on chemically treated hair INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Ceramide NG

41 Technical Focus - Varisoft EQ 100 Conditioning agent with improved sustainability Excellent conditioning on both wet and dry hair Superior manageability, lubricity and softness BTAC Better VARISOFT EQ 100 Better Build-up later Build-up directly Manageability Antistatic Body / volume Shine Curl retention Dry feel Dry comb Detangling dry Wet feel Wet comb Detangling wet Skin feel after rinse Rinseability Skin Feel INCI: Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate

42 Technical Focus - Hemp Oil Omega 6 rich oil Regenerating Anti-inflammatory 173% increase in product launches* INCI: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil *Mintel GNPD( vs )

43

44

45

46

47 SUPERFOOD S & CUSTOMISABILE BEAUTY identified as top global trends for 2018* *Cosmetic Business

48 nutrient-rich foods considered to be beneficial for health and well-being. Safflower oil use has increased 20% every year for the past decade The rise of the super food 50% OF uk CONSUMNERS WANT PRODUCTS CONTAINING NATURAL INGREDIENTS Products containing pineapple have doubled in the past two years Mintel GNPD

49 CUSTOMISABLE PRODUCTS CUSTOMISATION IS NOT AN OPTION, IT'S A MUST-HAVE FOR THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY. MINTEL HOWEVER A THIRD (34%) OF PEOPLE IN THE UK BELIEVE SUCH PRODUCTS ARE EXPENSIVE AND THAT CUSTOMISATION WILL LEAD TO INFLATED PRICES. 48% OF ADULTS IN THE UK ARE INTERESTED IN PERSONALISED BEAUTY Mintel

50

51

52 Customisable face cream Harness Your Superpowers with SUPER Food Serums Feed Your skin with 4 of your 5 a day using super skin foods for sought after nourishment Strip back dull skin to reveal your glow with invigorating powers of coffee and kukui Purify the face from daily grime with a skin friendly piña colada wash Baste yourself in buttery rich warm skin spices including turmeric, curry leaf & cinnamon Younger Fresher Cleaner Silica has never been so sexy smooth

53 Customisable face cream Harness Your Superpowers with SUPER Food Serums Feed Your skin with 4 of your 5 a day using super skin foods for sought after nourishment Strip back dull skin to reveal your glow with invigorating powers of coffee and kukui Purify the face from daily grime with a skin friendly piña colada wash Baste yourself in buttery rich warm skin spices including turmeric, curry leaf & cinnamon Younger Fresher Cleaner Silica has never been so sexy smooth

54 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH

55 Rich touch, with discreet afterfeel Co-surfactant properties for detergent formulas Solubilises Salicylic Acid

56 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH

57 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH

58 InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH

59 8% retinol inulin encapsulated Stable, targeted retinol delivery Low irritation compared to free retinol Deep skin layer bioavailability

60 InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 Phytosphingosine HCL Herbapurifine TEGOSOFT SH

61 Synergistic Antimicrobial and Anti inflammatory activity Naturally occurring lipid in the stratum corneum Strengthens microcapillaries to improv blood circulation Before application 60 days after application

62 InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH Phytosphingosine HCL Herbapurifine TEGO Enlight TEGO Pep 4 Even

63 30 Lightening effect [ITAºC] Sodium phytate (rice bran) stimulates natural exfoliation, reduced melanin White mulberry antioxidant inhibits Vehicle 2% TEGO Enlight Vehicle 2% TEGO Enlight tyrosinase Base Line After 8 weeks

64 TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE and the technologies that make them possible Vol.3 Jason Dearden-Watts Senior Technical Development Manager Personal Care Dana Smith Laboratory Development Chemist Personal Care Sources: Mintel Global New Products Database (GDPR), Mintel Presentations (Various), Cosmetic Design-Europe, Cosmetics Business, Evonik Industries Nutrition & Health, Lubrizol, Stepan,