SCS SUMMER SCHOOL 13 th /14 th July 2013

Transcription

1 SCS SUMMER SCHOOL 13 th /14 th July 2013 Decorative Cosmetics Pauline Ayres Azelis cares, every day

2 Your company are looking to manufacture a range of colour cosmetics for sale in Europe, the USA & Japan. Your marketing department have asked you to develop the products & the production department have insisted that you can have only one formulation per shade. The range consist of lipsticks, eye shadows, blushers, mascara & foundation. Explain why it is so difficult to formulate some of these products to ensure you comply with the production department s requirement. Give specific examples of the issues. 10 marks Marketing have asked that the foundation you develop is a water-in-silicone system, give an example formulation for this type of product. Briefly discuss any special requirements for formulating this product. Give an outline of the manufacturing procedure. 8 marks Marketing have also insisted that the mascara is waterproof rather than just water resistant. Give an example formulation for this type of mascara & describe the manufacturing procedure. Discuss the implications of this choice by Marketing on the packaging that you will need to source. 7 marks

3 Give an example formulation for a traditional pearlised red lipstick; explain the role of each ingredient in your formulation. 4 marks Discuss how the pigments that you have used in your lipstick differ from the pigments that are used in other decorative cosmetic products, such as foundations & face powders. Include in your discussion definitions of the following terms & examples of the pigments that they describe. Organic pigment Inorganic pigment Lake Toner Pearl effect pigment 15 marks Write brief notes on the following terms, include diagrams to describe these phenomenon where appropriate Metamerism Fluorescence Interference 6 marks

4 Answer all parts a) Pearl effect pigments are widely used in many types of decorative cosmetics. i. Discuss how pearl effect pigments have developed over the years ii. Explain, with the aid of a diagram, how the phenomenon of interference is achieved in a pearl effect pigment. iii. Care has to be taken when processing pearl effect pigments explain why and how they are processed when manufacturing a pressed eyeshadow 10 marks b) Discuss the other types of colorants that are used in decorative cosmetics and the product types in which each is used. Give an example of each type you mention. 15 marks

5 Answer all parts 1. Batch to batch consistency of colour is vital to ensure that when the consumer repeat-purchases they get the product they are expecting. Explain how, in a production environment, the colour of each batch is controlled to ensure it is the same as the last batch of the shade, for the following products 1. Foundation 2. Lipstick 3. Powder eyeshadow Pigment dispersion is the key to optimising the use of colours, explain why and which types of equipment are used to disperse the colours used in the above list of products How would you adjust a formulation to take account of different ethnic skin colours? Briefly discuss the challenges of developing a range to suit multiply ethnic groups

6 Decorative Cosmetics are now about more than just adding colour to the user s face Discuss the above statement. Include in your discussion reference to the different types of product that exist and how some of the additional features of the products can be achieved. 25 Points

7 Answer both parts a) Write brief notes on the way decorative cosmetics are regulated within the EU, USA & main Asian markets. When formulating lipsticks and eye products in particular, how do the different regulatory systems hinder the formulator? 10 Points b) You have been asked to formulate a range of water-in-silicone foundations for the European market. Discuss the special requirements of this type of formulation. Include in your discussion an example formula and an indication of the manufacturing procedure that will be needed in the factory. Why are these products so popular now compared to the formulations that were on the market 20 years ago? 15 Points

8 You have been asked to formulate a range of cosmetics for sale around the world. The range consist of:- a) Bright red lipstick b) Pink pressed eye shadow c) Water in silicone liquid foundation d) Rose coloured pressed blusher e) Black smudge resistant mascara Discuss your formulations, with particular emphasis on the role of each of the ingredients you have chosen. Include in your discussion the problems associated with formulating for different geographical areas and people with different skin types. Also discuss any particular technical issues that may need to be overcome within the formulations to ensure their stability in such a wide market area. 25 Marks

9 There is a wide range of colouring materials available to the formulator of decorative cosmetics. Write notes on each of the following and how they are used in this market sector:- a) Lakes 5 Marks b) Toners 5 Marks c) Inorganic Pigments 5 Marks d) Pearls (Pearlescent Pigments) 10 Marks

10 Answer all parts:- a. Give an example formulation for a smudge resistant mascara. Explain the role of each ingredient that you have included in the formula and describe how you would manufacture the product. (10 Marks) b. You have been asked to make a range of decorative cosmetic products for your company to sell around the world. Discuss any formulation considerations required when developing products for non- Caucasian skin types. (10 Marks) c. Your marketing department want to add a product to the range to help people compensate for high red skin colouration. How would you go about formulating such a product? ( 5 Marks)

11 Answer all parts:- a. Discuss the different types of colouring agents used in decorative cosmetics. Include in your discussion definitions of the terms used to describe these chemicals and give examples of each type and the type of decorative cosmetics they can be used in. (12 Marks) b. How are colours described in the ingredient lists of finished products within the European Union? How does this differ to the way they are described on packs in other areas around the world? (5 Marks) c. You have formulated an eyeshadow and a lipstick for sale in your company s European shops, which contains D&C Red 6 Barium Lake. Your marketing department wish to sell the same products in the company s shops in the USA and Japan. What is your advice on the acceptability of these shades for these markets? (8 Marks)

12 Answer all parts:- a. Pearlescent Pigments are vital to the formulator of Decorative Cosmetics due to the novel effects they give to the finished formulation. Discuss the different types of Pearlescent Pigments available and how they have changed over the years. Include in your discussion a description of the phenomenon of interference and how this is achieved with a Pearlescent Pigment. (12) b. Along with Pearlescent Pigments the formulator of Decorative Cosmetics has a range of different types of colouring agents available to them when formulating their products. Define the following terms, give an example of each type of material and say which types of Decorative Cosmetics they would usually be used in. Dye Inorganic Pigment Lake Toner (2) c. The use of colours in Decorative Cosmetics in heavily regulated. Briefly discuss how colorants are regulated in the EU, USA and Japanese markets. What problems can this give the formulator? (6)

13 Answer both parts:- a. You have used the manufacturing method detailed below to produce a lipstick, but you are finding that it is very difficult to make batches of the product consistently the correct colour. When you look closely at the product you discover that the product has lots of specs in it, which are particularly noticeable in the lighter shades in the range. You have also noticed that when the lipsticks are moulded lots of tiny holes form in the bullets. Also the nice large particle size glittery pearls you have added don t seem to be having the effect you had expected them to have. Manufacturing Method:- 1) Place the waxes in a jacketed mixing vessel that is fitted with a high shear mixing head 2) Turn on the steam and melt the waxes 3) Place all the oil components of the formulation in a separate mixing vessel and stir into the, with a spatula, the colours (not the pearls) 4) Add the oil colour blend to the main mixing vessel and mix with high shear until homogeneous. 5) Add in the pearls and continue mixing with high shear until homogeneous again. 6) Colour match by adding extra of which ever colour is needed straight into the mixing vessel and mixing with high shear again. Discuss why you are having all the problems and offer an alternative manufacturing method for the lipstick 13

14 Answer both parts:- b Give an example formulation for a water in silicone foundation, explain the role of each ingredient that you have included in the formula. Describe how you would manufacture the product. How would you ensure that each batch manufactured would match the standard? Are there any special requirements for the pigments in this type of formulation? If so what are they and why are they necessary. (10)

15 Answer all parts:- a. We use a number of different types of colouring agents in decorative cosmetics; write a brief essay discussing these colouring agents. Include in your discussion reference to the terms, dye, toner, organic pigment, inorganic pigment and pearlescent pigment. Give examples of each type and the sorts of decorative products they may be used in. (12) b. For ingredient labelling of colours within the European Union the Colour Index Number is used. What is the Colour Index Number? (2) c. How does the legislation in the USA and Japan differ from that in the European Union with respect to the labelling of colours on finished products? (6)

16 Answer all parts:- a. Discuss the ingredients used in a lipstick. Include in your answer an example formulation for a traditional lipstick, and the function of the ingredients used. (10) b. How would the lipstick you have described be manufactured? (4) c. Dispersion of the colouring agents used in Decorative Cosmetics is vital to the reproducibility of shades from batch to batch. How would you ensure that the colours used in the lipstick are fully dispersed? (2) d. The Marketing Department of the company for whom you work have asked for a range of lip-pencils to complement the range of lipsticks you have just developed. Very briefly indicate what the differences are between the formulation for your lipstick and the formulation that would be needed for the complementary lip pencil. (4)

17 Answer both parts:- a) Write brief notes defining each of the following terms:- Lake, Toner, Pigment, Dye, Organic Colorant, Inorganic Colorant, Natural Colorant, Colour Index Number, Interference Pearl, Metamerism. (10) b) Give an example formulation for a Pressed Eyeshadow. Explain the role of each ingredient in the formulation. Describe the complete manufacturing process. (10)

18 Answer both parts:- a) Describe the main techniques used to manufacture and fill a lipstick. (10) b) Describe the main techniques used to manufacture and fill liquid foundations. (10) Please give outline formulations for your answers and describe how you would adjust the colour if it needed correction

19 Answer all parts:- Pearlescent materials are an important component of many colour cosmetics. Discuss the types available to the formulator, incorporate in your answer a diagram of the structure of a simple white pearl. Also include in your discussion a diagram of how the effect is achieved in interference pearls. What special precautions have to be taken when manufacturing finished products containing pearls? (15) Write brief notes on the following and give examples of how they are used in decorative cosmetics:- Lake Toner Colour Index Number. (5)

20 Answer all parts:- a) Give details of a formulation for a smudge-resistant mascara, include notes on the function of each of the ingredients that you have in your formulation and the manufacturing procedure that would be required. (10) b) Write brief notes on the ingredients used in a Loose Face Powder and give a formulation example. (5) c) How would you amend your Loose Face Powder formulation to enable it to be pressed into a godet? (3) d) Briefly describe the manufacturing process for a Pressed Face Powder. (2)

21 Silicones are now widely used in Decorative Cosmetics. Discuss the different types of products in which they are used and illustrate your answer with some example formulae. Include in the discussion details of the different types of silicones and the properties they convey to the finished formulation. (15) Describe the techniques used to colour match liquid foundation products, including how colour additions are made to the finished product when necessary. (5)

22 Briefly describe the different types of colouring materials used in Decorative Cosmetics and give an indication of the type of finished product that each type of colorant would be used in. (10) The legislation that covers colorants varies quite considerably around the world. Write notes of how this affects the formulation of Decorative Cosmetics. Illustrate your answer with some examples of colorants that are approved for use in certain cosmetic products in one market but not another. (10)

23 a) Nail lacquer is a very difficult product to manufacture and is made only by a few specialist companies. Briefly explain why this is the case and discuss the method they would use to manufacture a coloured product. Illustrate your answer with an outline formulation and give details of the quality control checks that would be carried out at the various stages of production. (15) b) Dispersion of the colouring agents is crucial in all Decorative Cosmetic products. What methods are used when producing lipsticks and powder products to disperse the colours and check that full dispersion has been achieved? (5)

24 a) "Lakes" & "Toners" are used more than "Dyes" in Decorative Cosmetics. Define these three terms. Give 2 examples of each of these types of colouring agent and state in which products they are most commonly used. (5) b) We also use the terms "Organic" and "Inorganic" to describe colours, what do these two terms mean? (2) c) How do "Pigments" differ from Lakes, Toners and Dyes? Give 3 examples of an "Inorganic Pigment" and 1 example of an "Organic Pigment". Which type of pigment would usually be used in a foundation product? (3) d) Briefly discuss how the use of colours in Decorative Cosmetics are regulated within the main world markets. Include in your discussion the different ways they are incorporated into ingredient lists. (10)

25 a)discuss the various types of colouring ingredients used in decorative cosmetics and how they differ from those used in other personal care products. Illustrate your essay with examples of the names used for these colours in the different markets around the world and how their regulatory status affects the development of global formulations. Give examples of the types of colours used in lipsticks, face products, eye products and nail products (15)

26 b)the skin tone of the consumer affects the finished appearance of decorative cosmetics when applied. Discuss the special requirements needed when formulating products for people with different skin colours. (5)

27 Water in silicone foundations have become the most popular form of liquid foundation on the market in recent years. Discuss the reasons for this. Explain how this type of foundation differs from those that have been used previously and the special formulation problems associated with these systems. Illustrate your answer with an example formulation

28 Given below are the ingredients used in a loose face powder:- Talc Zinc Stearate Magnesium Carbonate Methylparaben Propylparaben Imidazolidinyl Urea CI CI CI Mica, Barium Sulphate Perfume Write notes on the purpose of each of ingredient in the formulation & give an indication of the level at which each would be used. How would the formulation be manufactured? What changes would you make to the formulation to make it into a pressed face powder?

29 Discuss the different types of colours available to the formulator of Decorative Cosmetics. Include in your discussion a review of world-wide colour nomenclature & the differences in regulations that somebody formulating a product for sale in the USA & a similar product for sale within the EU would have to consider

30 Discuss the ingredients used in a traditional lipstick. Illustrate your answer with an example formulation. Briefly describe the manufacturing procedure for a lipstick

31 Define the following terms- Organic Pigment Inorganic Pigment Dye Lake Toner Pigment Discuss how each of the above colouring agents can be used in cosmetics, giving one example of each & showing their major areas of use

32 Discuss the various types of liquid foundation currently found on the market & describe the advantages & disadvantages of each type. Give example formulations of TWO different types of liquid foundation & write brief notes on the techniques involved in overcoming batch to batch colour variation

33 Discuss the materials used in the various types of mascara. Give details of a formulation for a smudge resistant, but not waterproof mascara & explain why each ingredient has been included. List the attributes you would expect from your product. Which colouring materials are suitable for use in mascaras? Which should be avoided & why?