Bloom. Trading style notes with the new talents of the Blossom Project, showcasing the best of Belgian design. text Bobbi Misick

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1 Full Bloom Trading style notes with the new talents of the Blossom Project, showcasing the best of Belgian design text Bobbi Misick When we watch Belgian fashion designers and their handiwork we sense a strong individual connection between the craftsmen (and women) and the fruits of their labor Martin Margiela s avant garde luxury clothing comes to mind, as does Brussels-born Diane von Furstenberg s famed wrap dress. Consequently, it comes as no surprise that each of the five upcoming Belgian designers presented on the next few pages shares a very particularized experience with his or her creations. This October, the Chelsea Art Museum in New York City will exhibit The Blossom Project, presented by Infiniti, a showcase of the cream of the crop of Belgian designers on the up and up. We ve handpicked five of our favorites and asked them to let us in on their world: from design life to Belgian style and true modern glamour. In our own little Project Runway, the designers each picked a photographer who they wanted to collaborate with, and created an exclusive image representing their individual collections. Now that s what we call fashion forward.

2 Sandrina Fasoli

3 Photography Emmanuel Laurent Styling Michael Marson and Sandrina Fasoli Makeup Florence Touch Hair Florence Model Dominique Agency

4 Cathy Pill, 25 Antwerp/Brussels What made you want to be a designer? I thought I was going to study architecture, until I discovered Madeleine Vionnet [French designer from the 20s] on TV. After crying for a sewing machine, I finally received it, and never stopped using it. How would you describe Belgian fashion? Personal and modern. Tell us a little about your inspiration for the collection and this photo created for TRACE: The clothes are a mix of draped and bunched silhouettes with Art Nouveau influenced, sinuous patterns. Always keeping the essence of beauty, pushing away all superficiality. What is your definition of the 21st century glamour? Unfortunately, the glamour of the 21st century is found more on pictures and catwalks than on the streets. People want to look like a picture [so much] that they forget that real glamour represents a real living attitude. Among other awards, Pill received the sponsorship of the Fondation Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent at the 2005 Andam contest in Paris. Sandrina Fasoli Michael, 27, and Sandrina, 29 Brussels What made you want to be a designer? For Michael, it was evident from 12 years old, when he had a catwalk for his little sister and her friends. It was a real show with a collection, models and the audience. For me, My father is a men s tailor, I wandered all my childhood in his atelier. Fabrics, sewing machines and fittings were a part of my quotidian. For me, fashion is a sensible way of expression. How would you describe Belgian fashion? Very eclectic and unclassifiable. Tell us a little about your inspiration for the collection and this photo created for TRACE: The collection s inspiration was the false lightness of wintertime; sensual and subtle piling up. The photograph is the same: the figure is an extreme and subtle feminity; unexpected eroticism. What is your definition of 21st century glamour? The femininity of the vision of some women artists like Amie Dicke s cut girls and Vanessa Beechcroft s girls. Sandrina Fasoli was honored with the 2003 Grand Prix for a women s collection at the Hyeres Festival of art and design. Ann Torfs, 27 Antwerp: I live in the heart of a big city, but it feels like a small town in a big ocean. What made you want to be a designer? I knew this was something I wanted to fight for. From the moment I finished high school, my path was open. How would you describe Belgian fashion? It feels like the smaller the country, the more noise we have to make to get noticed. Tell us a little about your inspiration for this collection and this photo created for TRACE: I was inspired by Mexico s Dia De Los Muertos, the Day of the Dead. The

5 insider Cathy Pill Photography Gregory Derkenne Styling Cathy Pill Makeup and hair Nouria Dellarosa Studio La Fabrique Model Helen and Dominique

6 Ann Torfs Photography Koen Keppens Styling Ann Torfs Makeup and hair Ann Schietekat Location Salons for Fine arts St-Niklaas Model New

8 Nele Feyen Photography Ellen Smeets Styling Nele Feyen Retouches Mieke Geenen Makeup and hair Sigrid Volders Studio Ellen Smeets, Brialmontlei Antwerp Model Sarah New Models

9 idea is to mock death in order to feel less frightened. Also the artist Hew Lock was a great inspiration with his works of flowers, toy guns and skulls. I chose to do the picture in a very posh surrounding, because my collection is very ethnic but very rich in colors. What is your definition of the 21st century glamour? More is more! Karl Lagerfeld [knows how to make someone look like a part] Chloe Sevigny [is the part]. Torfs won a prize for the best perfume concept at the 2003 IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances) competition. Nele Feyen, 23 Antwerp What made you want to be a designer? I learned a lot of female elegance through my ballet teacher. She was an older lady always dressed in the most elegant dresses and shoes. How would you describe Belgian fashion? I think that Belgian designers are not afraid to show the fantasy in their designs and that makes it so interesting. Tell us a little about your inspiration for this collection and this photo created for TRACE: Queen Elizabeth mostly inspired my collection. She was the first woman who showed power by her image and the way she was dressed. I did a lot of research on the corsets [of the time], particularly the orthopedic corsets, because I like the material a lot. We wanted the photograph to look very sober, and wanted to create a woman who looks like a doll. What is your definition of 21st century glamour? I am a huge fan of Mick Jagger and Keith Richards. For men, they are still the ones who embody the best glamour of this century. For women, I think more of Monica Bellucci and the designer Balenciaga. Feyen won this year s L Oreal Professionnel award in Brussels. Anthony Vaccarello, 26 Brussels What made you want to be a designer? I always knew that I wanted to design clothes. It was very natural for me... When I finished my classic studies in Latin poetry there was a buzz around the work of Olivier Theyskens so I looked up his work and I literally fell in love with it. How would you describe Belgian fashion? Belgian fashion is something very personal, deep and sensual. The vision of woman for a Belgian designer is very poetic, sometimes dark. Quite mysterious. Tell us a little about your inspiration for the collection and this photo created for TRACE: The inspiration for this collection is the Cicciolina, the [famous Italian] porn star from the 90s. I imagine the Cicciolina, alone... waiting for her lovers. I chose Julien Claessens [to shoot] the photo because he has the same the vision that I have; something dark, very poetic... strong and fragile at the same time. What is your definition of 21st century glamour? I don t like the word glamour. For me glamour is something that doesn t exist anymore. Vaccarello won the Grand Jury Prize at this year s Festival International Des Arts De La Mode at Hyeres. 10

10 Anthony Vaccarello Photography Julien Claessens Styling Anthony Vaccarello Makeup Jennifer Courouge Model Ellen Van Der Domonique Assistants Arnaud Michaux and Sarah De Grunne 11

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