28 Spicing up beauty care regimes 22

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1 Contents COSSMA 12/ Spicing up beauty care regimes 22 In future, ingredients will focus on DNA repair 03 Editorial 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS 12 Imogen Matthews, Consultatnt to In-Cosmetics: Make-up for a pictureperfect finish 15 Highlights of the year In close-up 22 Dr Meike Streker, University of Hamburg: Repairing DNA damage 25 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches 38 Importance of aluminium salts in deodorants 26 Guadalupe Pellon, BASF: Hair repair from the inside 28 INGREDIENTS 28 Interview with Sergio Manzano, Clariant: Transforming textures 32 Mathias Gempeler, Alexandre Rio, DSM Personal Care: Demand for globally-effective ingredients 36 Formulations: Creams, gels & lotions 37 Ingredients news 38 SPOTLIGHT: DEODORANTS 38 Interview with Dr Andrea Sättler, Henkel: A closer look at aluminium salts 40 Interview with Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS): Preventing body odour 41 Interview with Philip Brand, Lindal Group: Versatile aerosol solutions 4 l COSSMA 12 I

2 Discover GlucoPure SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure : innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners. GlucoPure is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a Renewable Carbon Index of up to 95%.

3 Contents COSSMA 12/ Proven effect on different skin tones 42 BACKGROUND 42 Market survey: Service providers 48 Star of the Month: For tattooed men 50 PACKAGING 42 Market survey on service providers: Who offers what? 50 Creative new solutions 53 Packaging news 54 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 54 Interview with Michael Schummert, Dr Babor: Striving for the impossible 58 People Packaging developments worth a look SERVICES 08 Download List 6O BEAUTY FORUM trade fairs: Events News 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: Dr Babor photos: Science Photo, Shutterstock.com 6 l COSSMA 12 I

4 Personal Care lighter softer safer Lipex SheaLight eco-designed emollient ester for skin, sun and hair care products delivers feathery light, silky soft feel highly spreadable and polar good solubilising and dispersing properties good solubility of organic sun screens Naturally derived from renewable sources, Lipex SheaLight is a state of the art shea-based ester with unique sensory properties. AAK Sweden AB AAK Personal Care SE Karlshamn Sweden Comparison with other shea based emollients*: far more powdery skin feel significantly less greasy high slipperiness * For more information and to order free sample visit aakpersonalcare.com enhancing the power of nature

5 SERVICES Free Downloads for Subscribers CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: SIAN SUTHERLAND Co-founder of Mama Mio and brand creator of Mio Skincare explains what was important for her when she started her business. DR. ANDREAS REINHART Lawyer and Partner at Meyer.Rechtsanwälte takes a closer look at free from claims for cosmetics. COSSMA DOWNLOAD-TIP IN DECEMBER Belinda Carli from IPCS explains how to age gracefully and how to select the right actives for best results. She points out that targeting the right mechanism with the right actives is the key factor when it comes to formulating anti-ageing products. Using ingredients that stop the muscular contractions prevents the formation of lines. No single anti-ageing active will solve all consumer concerns DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for December User name: cossma12 Password: new Top-Downloads for December JANE ATHERTON Founder and CEO at Phytomone points out how she developed her brand. BACKGROUND: COMPANIES: MARKET DATA: FORMULATION: Naturally protected skin (Sederma) L.O.V. concept for colour cosmetics (Cosnova) Beauty & Personal Care Packaging (All4Pack) First Aid Combing Hair Spray (CLR) DETLEF ISERMANN Managing Director at P&M Cosmetics gives his opinion as a brand owner on the trend of anti-pollution actives for cosmetic products. LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at photo: Good Luz, Shutterstock.com 8 l COSSMA 12 I

6 PACKAGING INGREDIENTS MACHINERY PRIVATE LABELS RAW MATERIALS CONTRACT MANUFACTURING BOLOGNA, ITALY MARCH FROM THURSDAY TO SUNDAY THE INTERNATIONAL EVENT DEDICATED TO THE BEAUTY SUPPLY CHAIN A BRAND-NEW PROJECT EXCLUSIVELY DEVOTED TO THE RETAIL DISTRIBUTION CHANNEL MARCH FROM FRIDAY TO MONDAY THE LEADING INTERNATIONAL EVENT FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SECTOR, COLLECTING UNDER ONE ROOF ALL THE SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY: PERFUMERY AND COSMETICS, NATURAL PRODUCTS, PACKAGING, MACHINERY, CONTRACT MANUFACTURING AND RAW MATERIALS, BEAUTY AND SPA, HAIR AND NAILS, COUNTRY PAVILIONS FACTS & FIGURES 2016: 2510 EXHIBITORS 25 COUNTRY PAVILIONS VISITORS Organiser - BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy ph fax info@cosmoprof.it company of in cooperation with

7 INGREDIENTS NEWS News photos: C.H. Erbslöh, Odua Images (cream), Filip Ristevski (petri dish), VP Photo Studio (shaving), Shutterstock.com Meets the main needs of modern cosmetic preservation ALTERNATIVE PRESERVATION AKEMA Stabil Zero is an alternative preserving system. It provides microbial stabilisation without using traditional preservatives and fragrances. It provides mild and effective preservation with no impact on colour, odour and ph. It combines multifunctional diols with full-spectrum efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. It can also be used as a preservative booster to reduce the use levels of classic preservatives or to enhance the efficacy of other antimicrobials. News OF THE Month FROM RECY- CLED WOOD ESSENTIALLY NEW ZEA- LAND Totarol, distributed by C.H. Erbslöh, has broad-spectrum antibacterial properties suitable for deodorant formulations. This antibacterial, anti-microbial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound is extracted with supercritical CO 2 from recycled totara wood such as fence posts, tree stumps and old house piles. In a deodorant formulation, it will decrease the number of bacteria and also prolong the activity of the final product. Totara wood in New Zealand Soothes irritation Prevents razor burn ASHLAND The skin is the frontline of aggressions, such as shaving. In response to attack, the skin triggers a protection mechanism, which may include redness, sensory discomfort and hyperpigmentation. Studies show that tocopheryl phosphate directly mediates irritation by acting on cellular inflammation pathways. In a clinical shaving study, it was shown that Vital ET, a patented bio-functional form of Vitamin E, helped to reduce razor burn, soothe razor irritation and prevent redness.. www. ashland.com ADVERTISEMENT phone: Join ous at COMET on June l at Cergy-Pontoise (UCP), France

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9 E / 2016 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS New micro-proteins for hair repair on the inside SPOTLIGHT: DEODORANTS How important are aluminium salts in antiperspirants? Michael Schummert, Dr Babor RESEARCH IS OUR DNA DR MEIKE STREKER University of Hamburg Cosmetic Sciences Repairing DNA damage