Contents COSSMA 6/ MARKETS & COMPANIES 12 GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE 34 INGREDIENTS 40 BACKGROUND. 4 l COSSMA 6 I

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1 Contents 6/ The latest ingredient concepts for hair care at a glance 33 Editorial 24 Testing methods to substantiate claims for hair care 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE 12 Ingredients for tomorrow s products 16 Guadalupe Pellon, BASF: Improved combability and more 20 Anna Crovetto, Active Concepts: Go blonde without the breakage 23 Ingredients news 24 Marianne Brandt, Stephan Bielfeldt, Dr Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, ProDerm: Measuring curl retention and more 28 Aymeric Vague, Serac: Optimised filling process 32 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International global launches 34 INGREDIENTS 34 Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS): Powerful peptides 38 Formulations: Sun care and more 20 Going blonde without the damage 40 BACKGROUND 40 Star of the Month: A smarter fragrance 42 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: Global beauty trends 4 l 6 I

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3 Contents 6/ Formulation concepts that appeal to all the senses 48 SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS 48 Formulation concepts: Creamy delights 42 What are the most relevant global beauty trends? 52 PACKAGING 52 Cosmetic Business: Meeting the suppliers 55 Packaging news 56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 52 Meeting the suppliers at Cosmetic Business 56 Interview with Siân Sutherland, Mama Mio and Mio: Giving birth to new brands 59 People 60 SERVICES 38 Download List 60 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH: Meet your business in Munich 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: Tom Arden 6 l 6 I

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5 SERVICES Free Downloads for Subscribers CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: GERALD MARTINES Director of innovation at Qualipack talks about the development of the market for airless dispensers. THOMAS KEISER General Manager at Industrieverband Körperpflege & Waschmittel (IKW) explains the market development in Germany in DOWNLOAD-TIP IN JUNE Manuela Salmina-Petersen from Dr. Straetmans explains what ingre dients serve best to make a formulator s life easier. She points out what major challenges are formulators confronted with today and what has to be considered in different product types in terms of a formulation s effectiveness and sensorial profile. Realise a large variety of different viscosities and textures without affecting the sensorial profile DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair Top-Downloads for June NICOLAS LASBISTES Global Technical Marketing Manager at Clariant talks about Clariant s offer in the field of sustainable ingredients for personal care. BACKGROUND VIDEO SUPPLIERS FORMULATION Structure of Oxyresveratrol (Sabinsa) Omyadent (Omya) Market Survey Process Technology Natural Slimming Cream (Impag) DR. SIMON ELMER Luxury Packaging Development Leader at P&G Prestige talks about an award-winning perfume bottle and the latest trends in luxury packaging. LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at photo: Sergey Nivens, Shutterstock. 8 l 6 I

6 ADVERTISEMENT Merck Presents New Highlights at In-Cosmetics Dr. Karl-Christian Gallert, Head of Cosmetics at Merck, presents Merck s latest launches at In-Cosmetics, including Timiron Halo White for trendy make-up highlights, new RonaCare Essential Ingredients, comprehensive compendia, color forecast and marketing initiatives Merck, a leading science and technology company, presented innovative pigments as well as new active ingredients and concepts at the in-cosmetics Merck s colorful new branding lends its stand a completely new appearance, underscoring the broad, innovative and diverse portfolio of pigments and functional materials. TM SMART EFFECTS FOR EFFECTS OF LIGHT Smart EffectsTM is Merck s new brand for the next generation of premium cosmetic effect pigments. Effects of Light and Revolutionize Performance will now be used as themes for the successive launches of new effect pigments that captivate consumers with their extraordinary effects and impressive properties. The first product launched under this umbrella brand is Merck s new effect pigment Timiron Halo White. The innovative pigment gives creams, lotions, foundations and makeup products a natural shimmer that refines facial features and produces light effects precisely where sunshine illuminates a face on a summer day: on the forehead, nose, chin, and cheekbones. have been added to the portfolio, with which manufacturers can meet international legal requirements and significantly accelerate their supplier qualification processes. BSB INNOVATION AWARD FOR RONACARE SERENESHIELD Merck, has been recognized with the BSB Innovation Award 2016 in the category Cosmetics/ Raw Materials/ Functionals for its active ingredient RonaCare SereneShield. The award for chemical raw materials and cosmetics was created by the independent consultation and service office Dr. Riedl, Hamburg. RonaCare SereneShield is a pioneer of Merck s dermocosmetics portfolio. The special mechanism of action of RonaCare SereneShield acts where skin problems arise: within the skin s microflora and the sebaceous glands. MARKETING INITIATIVES AND DERMOCOSMETICS The two marketing initiatives These lips are made for kissing and Dress up your skin target very specific application areas. They show in practical terms how effect pigments can be used in lipsticks, innovative lip products, as well as facial and body care to pick up on color and style trends and to give them that special something. Another highlight is the dermocosmetics concept, which introduces selected cosmetic active ingredients for the care aspect of problem skin. To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at Further information: Ready to open up new possibilities for your markets? NEW RONACARE DEVELOPMENTS With RonaCare Essentials product line, Merck offers the main components for top-quality cosmetic formulations. A multitude of new products To find out more, please write to us at cosmeticsexperts@merckgroup.com COS1606_PR-Merck_185x130.indd :31 good reasons for reading! Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow! Formulations, industry trends, market data 3 Interactive E-paper 4 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany) Search and download from our archives Free classified advert for subscribers Order today, at or via the hotline: +49 (0) Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen Germany, Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com

7 SERVICES Meet your business Events When the 31 st BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH takes place from October 22 23, don t miss the opportunity to profit from this year s international pavilion. Just recall the impressive figures of last year s 30 th anniversary of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, Europe s No. 1 autumn cosmetics trade fair over 40,000 national and international visitors took advantage of the extensive offer in innovations presented by more than 1,000 exhibiting companies and brands. This year s International Pavilion is specially tailored for international exhibitors to give them a hand in stepping into the German and international beauty market. If you book your place for participation now, you can take advantage of a highly effective promotional package for marketing your products in Germany: The exhibition organisers with more than 30 years of experience stand for a high quality trade show The worldwide BEAUTY FORUM network with a presence in 16 countries and 20 trade fairs stands for genuine internationalism Making use of this international platform to establish new and maintain existing business contacts guarantees a fully business-focused event The International Pavilion offers an ideal platform for making new business contacts in the versatile German and international cosmetics industry. Our offer includes an all-inclusive stand package, free advertising in trade fair media online and print, a counter for product presentation and special guidance by our team. For more information about this offer, the additional marketing package and about discount options when participating at more than one of our shows, please contact achim.erndwein@health-and-beauty.com or check out photo: Pauline Fabry ADVERTISEMENT 60 l 6 I

8 SERVICES FAIRS, CONFERENCES 2016 AND SEMINARS WHEN? WHAT? WHERE? WHO? Fragrance Foundation Awards New York Fragrance Foundation USA Seminar: 3D Skin print Lyon Centre Européen de Dermocosmétologie Anti-ageing Skincare London Summit Events Conference Great Britain Cosmetic Business Munich Leipziger Messe GmbH Germany InnoCos Vienna KGS B.V. Austria MakeUp in Paris Paris Beauteam SSCS The Science Behind Singapore Singapore Polytechnic Asian Cosmetics Republic of Singapore Alternative Fragrance & Beauty Paris Informa Exhibitions World Perfumery Miami Beach Allured Business Media Congress USA Grundlagenseminar: Frankfurt a.m. Cosmetic Campus Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene Germany HBA Global New York UBM USA hbaglobal.packagingdigest.com ICADA Sommer-Fachtagung Frankfurt a.m. Icada Germany Intensivseminar: Frankfurt a.m. Cosmetic Campus Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene Germany Seminar: Frankfurt a.m. Cosmetic Campus Konservierung von Kosmetika Germany Alternative Fragrance & Beauty Paris Informa Pack & Gift Paris Idice Seminar: Frankfurt a.m. Cosmetic Campus Kosmetik Claims im Wandel Germany Mischen impossible - Heidelberg Sepawa Specialist Group Cosmetic Applications Zwischen Anspruch Germany and Technologies (CAT) und Wirklichkeit Packaging Schwaebisch Hall, Packaging Valley Germany e.v. Valley Days Germany International Esthetics Las Vegas Questex Cosmetics & Spa Conference USA Qualifizierungsseminar: Frankfurt a.m. Cosmetic Campus Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene Germany Cosm ing Saint-Malo CBB Capbiotek In-Cosmetics Korea Seoul Reed Exhibition Korea International Conference on Red Bank, NJ Cvent Applied Hair Science USA l 61

9 E / 2016 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE Checking out the latest ingredient concepts SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS A broad selection of creamy delights Siân Sutherland HOW TO GIVE BIRTH TO NICHE BRANDS MARIANNE BRANDT from ProDerm explains how to substantiate marketing claims in hair care