a perfumery favourite from Egypt s fertile Nile delta top global trends in cosmetics go organic in six easy steps

Transcription

1 WINTER edition 2011 a perfumery favourite from Egypt s fertile Nile delta top global trends in cosmetics go organic in six easy steps

2 this issue winter edition 2011 As the weather becomes colder and the days become shorter our inclination can be to hibernate and wait for brighter days. But winter is actually the perfect time for planning your next phase of growth and preparing yourself for the momentum to come. In this issue of Oily we hope to inspire you with ideas that you can utilise in your business in the coming months. Harvest features the wonderfully aromatic story of Egyptian Jasmine. This superb oil is still a favourite in perfuming and fine essential oils blends and here we discover how traditional farming and harvesting methods are still being used to deliver this high quality product. Top trends within the global cosmetic market are also under review. Why not keep them in mind as you plan your next product development project? Plus the not-to-be-missed guest article from Biological Farmers of Australia offers insight into the organic certification process. Lucille Wilson, Editor

3 Winter cover: Lemongrass Cymbopogon citratus The essential oil is steam distilled from the grass and leaves. It has a rich, sweet lemony aroma and light yellow colour. It offers skin toning and cleansing properties and is helpful for acne prone complexions. It is excellent in massage blends for muscular pain relief and is also believed to offer support to the respiratory system. Available in Certified Organic and Conventional (Cymbopogon flexuosus). Visit www. seoc.com.au for more information. 04 Harvest: Jasmine Absolute Premium Egypt s finest floral export. 14 Enterprise: Top Global Cosmetic Trends Popular trends that have outlived seasonal fads. 18 SME Forum: Organic Certification A world of growth & opportunity. 20 News: The latest happenings at SEOC Latest release products. 22 Product Specification: Jasmin Absolute Premium Specification for manufacturers. 23 Formulation: Queen of the Nile Perfume Balm Featuring Egyptian Jasmine Absolute Premium.

4 4 Delicate jasmine flowers are transported to the processing plant by traditional donkey cart. This truly environmentally friendly shipping method ensures zero carbon emission.

5 harvest Jasmine: the true essence of perfumery An indulgent scent that is much-loved by the world s most famous perfumers. Jasmine is believed to have its origins in the foothills of the Himalayas. Indian, Persian and Arab traders of the time travelled overland from Asia to the Middle East and it was first introduced to Egypt in the mid-7th century. Its alluring aroma enhanced Jasmine s popularity throughout the Mediterranean and it was subsequently grown across the entire region. Indian Hindu culture commonly used the flowers in religious events and adorned shrines to their gods with the soft white petals. In China, the gentle flower symbolised femininity and was used in many traditional medicinal remedies. Pakistan, Tunisia and > 5

6 harvest Indonesia all claimed a species of jasmine as their national flower demonstrating the extent to which the plant travelled across the globe and the long-lasting connection the flower has with many different cultures. Originally known by the Persians as yasmîn, the modern name evolved from the French jasmin used during the 15th century. It wasn t until the middle of the 16th century that the English word, Jasmine, first appeared. Today, the richly aromatic jasmine is a highly sought after perfumery component and has been a key ingredient for some of the most famous fragrance design houses such as Guerlain, Chanel, Estee Lauder and Dior. Egyptian Success The climatic conditions of the Nile delta proved ideal for the introduced Jasminum grandiflorum species and at present, Egypt is the largest producer of the world s jasmine supply. The absence of frosty chills or monsoonal rainy seasons is ideal for the delicate flower and the relative humidity experienced in Egypt creates the perfect environment. The land itself is exceptionally fertile with high silt levels. Soil alkalinity provides an excellent foundation for prolific growth and when coupled with the region s continuous sunlight, the flowering shrub flourishes abundantly. Sydney Essential Oil Co. s Jasmine Absolute Premium supplier has been farming and producing aromatic raw materials for decades and was responsible for developing the Jasmine production in the region to the high standards practiced today. Growing Jasmine Jasmine bushes are cultivated from cuttings collected during the previous year s trimming. Each cutting is planted separately in a small container filled with a unique mixture of Nile soil, compost and sand, then housed in a specialised nursery to mature for a year. During this time the small plant develops a substantial root and > 6

7 Above: The distinctive star-like white petals and their sweet potent aroma are instantly recognisable and highly prized in many cultures. Below left: Local harvesters begin their day at the crack of dawn. An experienced picker can collect up to three kilograms of flowers before the day becomes too hot. Below right: It takes one tonne of the light-weight blossoms to produce just 1.5kg of precious absolute. 7

8 Richly aromatic jasmine is a highly sought after perfumery component and has been a key ingredient for some of the most famous fragrance design houses such as Guerlain, Chanel, Estee Lauder and Dior. Harvest labour force is composed of men and women living in local villages close to the jasmine fields. Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supply partner is heavily involved in various community projects such as the development of a medical clinic and supporting regular health seminars. 8

9 harvest foliage system which is vital for its future growth. After a year in the nursery, the young jasmine bushes are hand transplanted in open fields in a two metre square grid pattern. Once propagated, floral maturity is reached after approximately four years however the plant will bloom earlier in small volumes. A healthy jasmine bush can live beyond 40 years. However, Sydney Essential Oil Co. s supplier adheres to a superior agricultural practice and replaces their crops every 20 years. This ensures uninterrupted high quality production regardless of plant s age. Traditional methods of hand trimming are still employed and an expert team of elder men are now training young recruits to continue the custom into the future. The trimming sees the removal of older stems which encourages the plant to rejuvenate naturally through young stem growth. The removed stems are then put aside for the next scheduled nursery group continuing the cycle of propagation. Jasmine Harvest & Extraction The annual harvesting season begins at the end of May and continues all the way through until early November, with the largest collection occurring in July and August. During the harvest season, local pickers commence work at 4am. They collect up to three kilograms of the fragile blossoms by 10am when their day finishes. The early morning harvest ensures the flowers retain the highest concentration of aromatic material which is sensitive to evaporation during the heat of the day. Once collected the blossoms are transported to the processing plant. Solvent extraction is the most common method of producing oil. This was first employed in Egypt at the turn of the 20th century. Prior to that, jasmine was extracted through the traditional enfleurage technique which was highly involved and relatively inefficient. Solvent extraction is a two step process whereby a chemical such as hexane is employed to remove volatile and non-volatile > 9

10 harvest substances from the jasmine flowers. The resulting mixture is gently heated to boil off the solvent but not disrupt the nature of the aromatic constituents. The material that results from this initial extraction is known as a concrète. In the second step, the concrète is slowly warmed with alcohol, to melting point. This sees the essential oil component of the concrète dissolve into the alcohol along with small amounts of waxes and fixed oils. This solution is then cooled, filtered and distilled to remove all traces of alcohol and results in the clean and vibrantly aromatic absolute. One tonne (1000 kilograms) of hand-picked jasmine blossoms will produce between 2.6 to 2.8 kilograms of concrète, which in turn will yield between 1.5 to 1.7 kilograms of precious absolute. Jasmine Absolute Premium Perfumery is recognised as the primary industry that utilises the richly aromatic absolute. However, its popularity within aromatherapy, natural cosmetics, food flavouring and even candle industries is increasing. With an amber orange colour and thick viscosity, the absolute exudes an intense warm floral aroma with sweet fruit and tea undertones. In an essential oil blend the strong middle to base note resonates deeply and can be used in very small quantities to achieve wonderful results. It offers considerable relief to the nervous system when experiencing anxiety and restlessness. It is also recognised for its comforting support of female emotions and is heralded as one of the most useful oils for women. In natural skincare, jasmine not only provides a delightful scent to a product but can also assist in reducing the irritation of dry skin. When used in combination with lavender and neroli it can improve skin elasticity and is also helpful for softening stretch marks and reducing the appearance of scars. We invite you to try our Jasmine Absolute Premium today! 1 10

11 Above: The solvent extraction units process the jasmine flowers through hexane extraction to remove volatile and non-volatile substances. This is the first step in producing the aromatic material. Below left: In the final evaporation unit the concrète is treated to remove all remnants of the solvents. Below right: Freshly-picked blossoms are able to be processed virtually immediately after harvest as the production facilities are in close proximity. 11

12 In the fast paced cosmetics industry it seems like a new ingredient appears on the market almost every day. Each season s buzz product hits the shelf with enthusiasm but in many cases soon becomes lost amongst the ever growing selection of alternatives. global trends in the cosmetics industry So how do you recognise a fad from a trend? By definition a fad is somewhat of a one-hit-wonder, whereas a trend follows market forces and has long-term influence. Here we look at some of the most popular trends that have outlived assertive competition from seasonal fads and have given longevity to many products and brands. Natural Cosmetics trend not fad A noticeable shift in consumer consciousness in the last two decades has seen natural ingredients move to the forefront and become more frequently incorporated in skincare formulations. Not only are boutique and specialty brands making use of naturals, but mass market brands are extending their portfolios through product diversification or via acquisition of a successful boutique brand. Cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients have achieved success through true product efficacy, consumer praised positive results and increased consumer awareness. Organic Monitor s recent market report 1 forecasts an estimated 11% growth per annum in the natural personal care sector within Australia with market revenues expected to exceed $200 million by Organic Monitor also reports that new entrants to the market need to focus on product differentiation and target specific consumer segments in order to achieve their business opportunities. As there are currently 2 no regulations applicable to natural cosmetics, there is a great variance in the percentage of natural ingredients within > 12

13 enterprise Natural cosmetics: Currently there are almost 100 recognised brands within the Australian natural cosmetic sector, so successful positioning is imperative. SEOC offers a wide range of natural and organic raw materials. Contact sales@seoc.com.au for more details.

14 products. Some have small proportions with the balance of ingredients being non-natural or synthetic. The non-natural components are typically used to enhance the product s stability, to provide functions such as a preservative system, or to add-value with active ingredients such as specialty vitamins. This creates an opportunity for those striving to produce a 100% natural product. Many choose to take the next step and push natural even further by developing authentic Organic skincare products, thus leading us to the next trend. Organic Cosmetics trend not fad Organic cosmetics are a niche within the natural cosmetics trend. Certifiers such as Australian Certified Organic (ACO) only provide certification for products containing 100% natural ingredients, and of those ingredients the ratio of organic to natural determines the level of certification. It is not only the product manufacturers who are striving for organic status; consumers are actually driving the powerful demand due to a continuing rise in awareness for health and wellbeing. So, no longer is the term organic simply reserved for fruit and vegetables, organic cosmetics are a trend category in their own right. The natural and organic movements are global, with markets around the world reporting exceptional growth. In November 2010, Personal Care Magazine cited that Japan had experienced an increase of 21% within the organic cosmetic market in 2009 over 2008, and Organic Monitor forecast the European market to reach 2 billion in Astute manufacturers are embracing the production of organic products and extending their certifications, capabilities and business plans to leverage this forecasted consumer demand. Free from Parabens trend not fad Few ingredients have attracted as much negative press over the last few years as the family of paraben preservatives. Yet, they are still commonly found in many personal care products due to their reliable performance. However, with trends leaning towards the use of natural and naturally-derived ingredients and with allergies and skin sensitivities on the rise, synthetics such as these are becoming increasingly unpopular. Cosmetic chemists are now utilising many effective alternative preservative options in their formulations. 14

15 enterprise Evidence of the trend is substantiated by the recent market update in Professional Beauty magazine 3 reporting that 13% of new American skincare and cosmetic products launched in 2010 highlighted their paraben-free position. This overall paraben-free statement cut across all cosmetic segments and was not limited to just natural or organic, thus broadening its impact and longevity. Anti-Ageing trend not fad Ever heard the expression, 40 is the new 30? For centuries people, in particular women, have been preoccupied with preserving youthfulness. Anti-ageing remedies have been common throughout many cultures but never has it had the attention that it does today. This can be attributed to several things, including the emergence of celebrity culture and peer pressure to always look your best. Plus, populations around the world are ageing, particularly in the most highly developed countries, with Japan noted as having one of the fastest ageing populations. At the 2009 In-Cosmetics Exhibition in Munich 4 it was reported that 22% of Japanese citizens are over the age of 65 years. Whilst most people are aware of the impacts of an ageing population on their retirement and the financial impacts on their children s generation, few feel that they can personally influence a change in outcomes other than slowing their own personal ageing process. Age lines, pigmentation, sagging skin are all signs of ageing and the market place offers solutions for every budget and every impulse or preference ranging from intensive salon treatment programs, cosmetic surgery, cosmeceutical products, engineered high-performance ingredients right through to the natural and organic categories. In conclusion These key trends have taken the world by storm and are still very much in their growth cycle. All signs are pointing towards their ongoing continuation for several decades to come and continued consumer demand will support further innovations in each of these categories. 1 References: ¹ Australian Market Report for Natural Personal Care Products, 2010, Organic Monitor. ² Organic Monitor reports that Government restrictions on the term Natural are expected to be in place by ³ Professional Beauty Magazine, Issue March/April 2011, The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd. 4 In-Cosmetics Annual Exhibition website 15

16 SME forum With organic farming set to be Australia s number one growth industry in 2011 (Ibis World, 2011), there are a myriad of opportunities for companies to make the most of this trend a leading growth sector within the industry is the often lucrative organic cosmetics market, making certified organic cosmetics and skincare potentially the fastest growth industry in Australia. The UK s Organic Monitor, a specialist research and consulting company on global organic industries, has released a market report that forecasts the market share of certified organic and natural products will more than double in the coming years. The growth is fuelled by growing consumer concern surrounding synthetic chemicals in cosmetics, in addition to expanded availability and mainstream marketing of increasing numbers of new products being launched. Australian Certified Organic (ACO) is Australia s largest and most widely recognised organic certifier. The ACO bud is found on more than 80 per cent of certified organic products sold in Australia and according to research by Mobium Group has achieved at least double the recognition of any other logo in the organic marketplace. Managing Director, Akiko Nicholls, says ACO cosmetics have a high reputation both in Australia and in international markets where the logo is recognised for meeting some of the world s most stringent organic cosmetics standards. The Australian Certified Organic Standard, to which ACO products are certified, is one of the few practical cosmetic standards in the world of which requirements remain close to organic food standards and which provides a real market advantage in many regions, particularly Asia, where consumers are more questioning of organic and natural claims, says Akiko. ACO certified cosmetics are accepted by most major trading countries without any additional requirements including the EU and most Asian countries. ACO cosmetic products are becoming popular in markets like Japan and Korea, where consumers pay more attention to the product ingredients source. In Australia and overseas, consumers are becoming more aware of the ingredients in organic products and savvy about what certification logos they can trust, she says. In particular, ACO cosmetics are becoming recognised for the fact that they cannot be tested on animals, contain no GM ingredients and require a natural extraction process for all ingredients. The certification process What are Australian Certified Organic cosmetics? While ACO certifies to some of the most stringent standards for organic cosmetics available worldwide, this doesn t mean the process is necessarily complicated. ACO cosmetics and skincare products with label claim of Certified Organic must contain > 16

17 Budding beauty: certification offers a world of opportunity for cosmetic and skincare companies. Winter scrub: Exfoliating scrubs are an important part of your total skin care regime, offering deep cleansing that will reveal a bright, fresh complexion. See our Formulations section online at for a variety of scrub recipes utilising natural & organic ingredients. 17

18 SME forum more than 95% certified organic ingredients. The remaining small percentage (maximum 5%) of non-organic ingredients must consist of naturally produced plant products, minerals and/or natural, non toxic preservatives/additives. AC O Cosmetic XX% Made with Certified Organic ingredients In a move towards promoting greater consumer confidence in organic beauty and personal care products, ACO also licenses use of a logo specifically for beauty products to give authenticity to the claim made with certified organic ingredients. The logo may be used on products containing between 70 and 95 per cent organic ingredients. In the beauty world, it can often be difficult for products to meet the 95 per cent organic ingredients rule and until now consumers have not had the benefit of knowing if products containing less than 95% organic ingredients are endorsed by ACO, says Akiko. The new Beauty logo gives consumers more choice and new confidence in products that are natural while still containing between 70 and 95 per cent organic ingredients. As with all ACO products, the non-organic component of these products making the claim made with certified organic ingredients must still be natural and meet stringent requirements in order to carry the logo as well as undergo annual audits. APPROVED PRODUCT 3052AP BFA How about mineral-based REGISTERED PRODUCT products? While they cannot be labelled organic, mineral-based products, which are becoming increasingly popular within the beauty and cosmetics market, can be registered with BFA to carry the Bud logo however with the words BFA Approved Product. While they are completely natural and contain no harmful chemicals or preservatives minerals are not cultivated in soil so cannot be classified as organic, says Akiko. But, consumers seeking naturally-derived mineral-based cosmetics are reassured by BFA s endorsement and the Bud mark. Registration has a different process to the ACO certification process detailed below, however registered products still benefit from the market advantages of the Bud (for more information about registration please contact ). Steps to Certification with ACO Certification of a cosmetic or skincare product can take from as little as two to three weeks (fast track option) to three months. This timeframe depends on the company s commitment to having suitable documentation and personnel available to assist throughout the auditing and documentation review process. 18

19 6 Easy steps! All operations involved in processing and repacking the product or ingredients must be certified in order for the final product to be ACO certified. 1. Submit an application form to ACO along with payment of the application fee 2. Submit a statutory declaration and organic management plan to ACO to start the Document Review process (forms available from ACO office or the ACO website) 3. The Audit: an ACO auditor will conduct an on-site audit of your operation 4. You will receive a Licence Agreement to sign and return to ACO. This agreement may contain corrective actions that need to be responded to before the product/operation can be certified 5. Once your account is paid and corrective actions made for achieving compliance, ACO will advise you that your application has been successful. 6. You can now market your product as Australian Certified Organic or BFA Approved Product (for mineral based products) To maintain your certification with ACO your operation will be audited annually to ensure the organic integrity of your system has been maintained. 1 By Madeline Cooper ACO licenses use of a logo specifically for beauty products to give authenticity to the claim made with certified organic ingredients. ACO Cosmetic Logo 70% 95% organic ingredients Label mock up example only For further information you can contact ACO at the Brisbane head office on ph or for international inquiries; info@aco.net.au or visit 19

20 news Create an on-trend product Using one of these fresh new Certified Organic ingredients. Argan oil Certified Organic We are pleased to announce the addition of Certified Organic Argan oil to our carrier oil range. This light, mildly aromatic oil is sourced from the Argania Spinosa tree that grows in South Western Morocco. Argan oil is cold pressed from the roasted nut and is rich in essential fatty acids, in particular oleic and linoleic acids (47%) as well as high levels of vitamin E (60-90mg/100g). Argan oil exhibits good resistance to oxidation and assists in boosting skin radiance. It offers softening properties, soothes the irritation of dry skin and provides protection against moisture loss, thus making it an excellent inclusion to skincare formulations. Argan oil is also ideal for use in formulating haircare products as it revitalises and restores beauty to the hair and improves scalp skin condition. Safflower oil Refined Certified Organic Recently we replaced our Certified Organic Safflower oil with a Refined (RBD) product. This Australian grown product is rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids and has a light yellow colour. Cold pressed from the seed of the Carthamus tinctorius plant, it has been refined, bleached and deodorised to organic standards, offering greater stability and commercial consistency. Versatile Safflower oil offers valuable moisturising properties and it s a wonderful addition to organic or natural cream formulations, in particular those for dry skin types. It s also great in natural lip balms resulting in soft, supple lips. In haircare products, Safflower oil will moisturise, soften and protect hair texture whilst reviving dry, coloured or chemically treated hair conditions. It will also improve lustre and overall hair manageability. Lavender Bulgarian Hydrosol Certified Organic Another addition to our portfolio of products from supply partner Enio Bonchev, is our new batch of Lavender Bulgarian Hydrosol Certified Organic. This outstanding hydrosol is highly aromatic with a warm, slightly smoky floral scent. It is both USDA and ACO certified and is an excellent addition to Certified Organic formulations. It may also be applied directly to the skin as a toner, makeup remover or facial spritz. Lavender hydrosol provides rejuvenating properties to all skin types, is gentle enough to use in baby formulations and is an excellent way to incorporate aromatherapeutic properties to products designed for sensitive complexions. Contact sales@seoc.com.au for more information on all new products. 1 20

21 In massage products, Argan oil helps relieve aches and pains whilst improving elasticity and rehydrating upper layers of the skin. Safflower Oil is also successful as a massage oil as it ensures maximum hydration and is gentle enough to use on sensitive and baby skin. 21

22 product specification Product Botanical Name: Origin: Appearance: Colour: Odour: Plant part used: Extraction method: Jasmine Absolute Premium Jasminum grandiflorum Egypt Mobile liquid to semi solid Amber Floral, Characteristic Flowers Solvent Physio-chemical properties Specific Gravity at 20ºC: Refractive Index at 20ºC: Flash Point: 93ºC in closed cup Oil Components typical Analysis Benzyl acetate: 25 40% Benzyl benzoate: 8 18% Linalool: 3 12% Phytols: 6 12% Phytyl acetate: Trace 10% b-carophyllene: Trace 5% Other Information Packaging: as required Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. For more information, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co

23 formulation Queen of the Nile Perfume Balm Performance: long lasting perfume designed for evening wear Appearance: smooth, golden yellow coloured wax Aroma: exotic, warm floral, with a hint of vanilla and spice notes Stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice Recommended use: use on wrists, behind ears, neck and inner elbow Phase Raw Material % w/w A Beeswax natural 28 B Avocado oil refined 23 Jojoba Virgin oil 8 Sunflower oil 8 C Shea Nut butter certified organic 20 Cocoa butter 3 D Grapefruit Pink essential oil 2.5 Ylang Ylang 1st Grade essential oil 2 Patchouli essential oil 2 Bergamot (bergaptene free) essential oil 1 Peru Balsam 1 Jasmine absolute premium 0.5 E Vitamin E natural 1 100% w/w Method of Manufacture 1. Gently heat Phase A to 70 C maximum, until wax is liquid. 2. Gently heat Phase B to 70 C maximum. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix well. 4. Gently heat Phase C until melted and add to mixture. 5. Continue to stir until cooled to 55 C. Add Phase D, mix well. 6. Add Phase E while stirring constantly. 7. Pour into small perfume jars whilst still liquid and cool slowly to room temperature. For ingredients, contact Sydney Essential Oil Co Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof. 23

24 Sydney Essential Oil Co Pty Ltd ABN Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: F: E: sales@seoc.com.au Order on-line Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday Copyright 2011 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council Chain-of-Custody certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view on-line. If you d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.