Preservative Effects of Zemea Propanediol

Transcription

1 Preservative Effects of Zemea Propanediol In-Cosmetics 2012 Barcelona Thursday, April 19 Denis Burlaud, EMEA Sales Manager

2 DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Joint venture formed in 2004 between DuPont and Tate & Lyle to produce propanediol from corn sugar, a sustainable & renewable resource DuPont is a world leader in science and innovation across a range of disciplines, including agriculture and industrial biotechnology, chemistry, biology, materials science and manufacturing. DuPont 2011 revenue was $38.7 billion. Tate and Lyle is a global provider of renewable ingredients, solutions and services to the food, beverage and industrial customers. Headquartered in London, UK, Tate and Lyle 2011 revenue was $4.3 billion. 2

3 DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Plant Loudon, Tennessee USA 12 years R&D effort Production started in November, ,000 metric tons annual capacity of bio-based PDO 35% capacity expansion online in 2 nd Q Zemea 1,3-propanediol

4 Process to Zemea Propanediol Fermentation Refining Glucose Zemea

5 Biotechnology Provides Excellent Purity LSL Zemea Batches Report 1: have Executive averaged Summary 99.98% Pure Process Perform ance A ctual (LT) U B Process Dem ographics Date: A pril 21, 2009 Reported by : Dav e Wood P roject: Zemea(R) P ropanediol D epartment: Q uality Process: C haracteristic: P urity - % P DO U nits: % U pper Bound: 100 Low er Spec: 99.8 Nominal: * O pportunity : Process Benchm arks A ctual (LT) Potential (ST) Sigma (Z.B ench) DPMO GC-FID Comparison Bio to Chemical PDO

6 No Skin Irritation Observed with Zemea

7 Improved Skin Moisturizing Performances N = 10; Typical O/W Skin care Emulsion with 5% glycol A Corneometer 825 PC was used to measure skin moisturization

8 Consumer Efficacy Testing - Skincare 100% Zemea Propanediol Propylene Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% % Subjects Strongly Agree or Agree Spreads Easily No Greasy Feeling No Tackiness No Filming Soft Feeling Absorbs Easily Feels Comfortable Smooth Feeling Pleasant Experience Skin Feels Moisturized N = 20 ; O/W lotion with 5% glycol ; Blind test Subjects completed a daily questionnaire where they reported their level of agreement on a scale of 1 to 7 with 10 different statements

9 Zemea Propanediol: Potential for Boosting Preservative Efficacy

10 Formulation A generic O/W skin care emulsion formula was chosen as the base material Ingredient INCI Name Weight, % Water, deionized Water qs to 100% Zemea propanediol Propanediol 0 to 6.0 Xanthan gum Xanthan gum 0.3 Liponate GC Caprylic Capric Triglyceride 10.0 Sesame oil Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) seed oil 5.0 Lipomulse 165 Glyceryl Stearate 2.0 Promulgen D Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth DC Dimethicone 1.0 NaOH /Citric acid (20% sol) Sodium hydroxide/citric acid qs to ph Preservative* Preservative* Experimental design A or B

11 Test Methods, Organisms & Acceptance Criteria CTFA Microbiology Guidelines Organism Inoculation Incubation temp. Staphylococcus aureus 1x10 6 CFU/g o C Escherichia coli 1x10 6 CFU/g o C Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1x10 6 CFU/g o C Candida albicans 1x10 5 CFU/g o C Aspergillus niger 1x10 5 CFU/g o C The microbial count was measured at 1, 2 and 7 days Acceptance Criteria The concentrations of viable bacteria demonstrate no less than a 3.0 log reduction (99.9%) from the initial count at 7 days, and no increase for the duration of the test period. The concentration of viable yeast and mold demonstrate no less than a 1.0 log reduction (90.0%) from the initial count at 7 days, and no increase for the duration of the test period.

12 Experimental Design A: ½ Preservative Level + varying levels of Zemea 7 preservative systems were tested at 50% of their recommended use level Varying levels of Zemea (0, 2, 4 and 6 wt%) Preservative Microcare PM3 euxyl PE 9010 Neolone PE Jeecide CAP-4 Optiphen Lexgard Natural INCI Name Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate Suggested, Weight % Actual, Weight % Zemea, Wt % Dermosoft 688 ECO Anisic acid, Parfum Geogard ULTRA Gluconolactone, Sodium benzoate

13 Results of Experimental Design A Minimum percentage of Zemea needed to boost preservative efficacy

14 Experimental Design B : 1/4 Preservative Level + 6% Zemea Same oil-in-water skin care emulsion 5 preservative systems were tested at 25% of their recommended use level Addition of 6 wt% Zemea Preservative Microcare PM3 euxyl PE 9010 Neolone PE Jeecide CAP-4 Optiphen Lexgard Natural INCI Name Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate Suggested, Weight % Actual, Weight % Zemea, Wt %

15 Results of Experimental Design B

16 Conclusion Zemea may allow the use of less preservatives in formulations while providing additional performance benefits such as no skin irritation, increased humectancy and excellent aesthetics. Zemea is not a preservative nor is it considered an active ingredient. 16

17 Zemea Approvals, Certifications and Registrations Approvals/Certifications: EcoCert - July 2008 DfE EPA s Design for the Environment - November 2008 s-gras - March 2009 Natural Products Association (NPA) October 2009 Registrations: INCI Name: Propanediol EINECS Number: CAS Number: REACH Registration Number: Health Canada - Natural Health Products Ingredient September 2010 USDA 100% Bio-Based April 2011 USP-FCC July 2011 Kosher September 2011 Halal November 2011 Natrue April

18 Zemea Commercialized in over 900 Products Globally Skin Care: Cleansers Facial Cleansers Body Wash Shower Gels Anti-Acne Hand Sanitizers Moisturizers Moisturizing Lotions and Creams Anti-aging Serum Skin Care Masks Eye Creams Scar Massage Gel Sun Care Sunscreen Lotions Sunscreen Wipes Baby Care Products Men s Skin Care Products Hair Care: Shampoo Conditioner Various Styling Products Toiletries Deodorants Oral Care Products Personal Lubricants Cosmetics: Concealer Mascara Makeup Remover Other Ingredients: Natural Esters Fragrances Natural Preservatives Botanical Extraction 18

19 Thank You for Your Interest! Thank You for Your Interest! Zemea the Natural Choice Purity and Renewable Performance Zemea is a registered trademark of DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Company, LLC. All rights reserved.