Mango - Eco BOTANY. Mango Eco extract is produced from the fruits of Mangifera indica, which comes from organic crops. V 01-02/

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1 Mango - Eco BOTANY Mangifera indica L. Family Anacardiaceae. It is commonly known as mango. The mango tree is erect, 30 to 100 ft (roughly m) high, with a broad, rounded canopy which may, with age, attain 100 to 125 ft (30-38 m) in width, or a more upright, oval, relatively slender crown. In deep soil, the taproot descends to a depth of 20 ft (6 in m), the profuse, wide-spreading, feeder root system also sends down many anchor roots which penetrate for several feet. The tree is long-lived, some specimens being known to be 300 years old and still fruiting. Nearly evergreen, alternate leaves are borne mainly in rosettes at the tips of the branches and numerous twigs from which they droop like ribbons on slender petioles 1 to 4 in ( cm) long. Hundreds and even as many as 3,000 to 4,000 small, yellowish or reddish flowers, 25% to 98% male, the rest hermaphroditic, are borne in profuse, showy, erect, pyramidal, branched clusters 2 1/2 to 15 1/2 in (6-40 cm) high. There is great variation in the form, size, color and quality of the fruits. They may be nearly round, oval, ovoidoblong, or somewhat kidney-shaped, often with a break at the apex, and are usually more or less lopsided. They range from 2 1/2 to 10 in ( cm) in length and from a few ounces to 4 to 5 lbs ( kg). The skin is leathery, waxy, smooth, fairly thick, aromatic and ranges from light-or dark-green to clear yellow, yellow-orange, yellow and reddish-pink, or more or less blushed with bright-or dark-red or purple-red, with fine yellow, greenish or reddish dots, and thin or thick whitish, gray or purplish bloom, when fully ripe. The flesh ranges from pale-yellow to deep-orange. It is essentially peach-like but much more fibrous (in some seedlings excessively so-actually "stringy"); is extremely juicy, with a flavour range from very sweet to subacid to tart. There is a single, longitudinally ribbed, pale yellowish-white, somewhat woody stone, flattened, oval or kidney-shaped, sometimes rather elongated. It may have along one side a beard of short or long fibers clinging to the flesh cavity, or it may be nearly fiberless and free. Within the stone is the starchy seed, monoembryonic (usually single-sprouting) or polyembryonic (usually producing more than one seedling). Native to southern Asia, especially eastern India, Burma, and the Andaman Islands, the mango has been cultivated, praised and even revered in its homeland since Ancient times. Mango Eco extract is produced from the fruits of Mangifera indica, which comes from organic crops. V 01-02/

2 CHEMISTRY The chemical composition of mango varies with location of cultivation, variety, and stage of maturity. The major constituents of the pulp are water, carbohydrates, organic acids, fats, minerals, pigments, tannins, vitamins, and flavour compounds (Kalra, SK et al., 1995). Table 1 shows the chemical composition of ripe mangos: Total soluble solids % fresh weight (pulp) Acidity as malic acid Total sugars Reducing sugars Vitamin C (mg) Variety Alphonso Baneshan Pairi Totapuri (Bangalore) Neelum Mulgoa Dashehari Fazli Langra Chausa Table 1. Chemical composition of ripe mangos (Kalra et al., 1995). The ripe fruit pulp contains about 12% carbohydrates. Sucrose, glucose, and fructose constitute the bulk of carbohydrates and most of the soluble solids in mango pulp (Kalra, SK et al., 1995). Carotenoids The pulp is a rich source of β-carotene. Sixteen different carotenoids have been identified, of which luteoxanthin and violaxanthin were present in large amounts in addition to β-carotene. Vitamins Mango s pulp is a rich source of vitamins. It has 4800 IU of vitamin A, and 13 mg/100g of vitamin C. In addition, B vitamin have been also found, mainly niacin (Kalra, SK et al.,1995). α-hydroxyacids (AHA) L-malic and citric acids are the most abundant organic acids in fruits. In tropical fruits such as mango, citric acid is the predominant organic acid. (Belitz, HD & Grosch, W, 1997). Other active principles A major component of the pulp was reported to be a triglyceride, while mono- and di-glycerides were minor components. Myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, linoelic and linolenic acids were present in ripe mango oil. The characteristic odour in the fruits during ripening is due to components of ester and carbonyl types. More than a hundred volatile components have been identified, major ones being terpenes although several other hydrocarbon esters and alcohols were also found to be present in ripe mango fruit (Kalra, SK et al.,1995). TRADITIONAL USES The sweet juicy flesh of the mango fruit is used as a creamy emollient to soothe dry, flaky skin. The fragrance is often used in many perfumes and lotions. V 01-02/

3 It seems that this fruit is excellent for skin, one single mango gives all necessary Vitamin C for all day, two thirds of the requirements of Vitamin A, almost half of the requirements of Vitamin E and a quarter of the fibre quantity needed for the organism together with a mineral mixture where potassium and iron can be found. It has positive effects dealing with heart problems, anaemia and other general diseases. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Trans-epidermal water loss regulating activity This activity is due to the carbohydrates and AHA content of mango. are active principles extensively used in cosmetics. Monosaccharides are hygroscopic, namely they adsorb water thus contributing to keep a healthy moisture level of the horny layer. Oligosaccharides have the same property. These active compounds build hydrogen bonds, prevent massive water loss and reduce dehydration. Additionally, some of these compounds make a protective coat on the skin, thus preventing and slowing down transepidermal water loss. Most AHAs are physiologic, natural, and nontoxic substances. All members of the group promote normal keratinization and desquamation. Those with multiple hydroxyl groups are moisturizing antioxidants, and are especially gentle for sensitive skin (Yu RJ & Van Scott EJ, 2002). Thus, Mango Eco extract is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with moisturizing action of skin and hair. Activity on the hair shaft Nojiri M. et al. (2004) observed that damaged hair shafts had pores that gave the hair a rubbery appearance. These authors developed a technology based on AHA and solvents to eliminate the pores in the hair shafts. They used bleached straight hair samples from Japanese volunteers. The hair shafts were immersed into an aqueous solution with 4% malic acid, 10% benzyloxyethanol (BOE), and 15% ethanol, at 40ºC for 20, 40 or 60 minutes, and subsequently cleared with water. Besides improving the appearance of the hair, this AHA-based technology allowed to keep the hairstyle for a long time, even under humidity conditions. The action mechanism was different from the habitual polymer-based technology. It has been proposed that the strong hydrogen bonds between the malic acid anion and the NH segments of hair proteins are the basis for the long lasting hairstyle duration attained with the AHA treatment. This novel technology allows for hair fixation without loosing the natural texture. Therefore, Mango Eco extract is of great use to formulate hair care cosmetics. Antioxidant activity The presence of carbohydrates, organic acids, vitamin C and, more specifically vitamin A makes mango a fruit with antioxidant properties. Mango has free radical scavenging properties very useful to protect the organism against cellular degradation. Therefore, Mango Eco extract is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products for the protection of the skin and hair integrity against oxidative processes. V 01-02/

4 Collagen synthesis stimulating activity This activity is due to the carbohydrates and vitamin A, B and C content of mango. Jouandeaud M. et al. (2004) evaluated the oligosaccharides activity in vitro. They observed that oligosaccharides were involved in the synthesis of major skin components, the type I collagen fibers, and that they prevented the degradation of the extracellular matrix by reducing the activity of metalloproteinase-1. Niacin (vitamin B3) it is another active principle of mango with antioxidant activity. Bissett D.L. et al. (2004) carried out experiments to evaluate the proposed antiaging properties of niacinamide. Their results confirmed that topical application of niacinamide provided several beneficial effects to the skin, such as improving the appearance of facial skin, fine lines and wrinkles, as well as hyperpigmentation, redness and skin yellowing. Additionally, the treatment was well tolerated, without producing skin redness, burning sensation or itching. This outcome is in contrast with other topical treatments, such as trans-retinoic acid, which improves the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation but damages the skin barrier function, sensitizes the skin and produces skin redness. The action of niacin on fine lines and wrinkles involves two relevant mechanisms: niacin stimulates collagen production in the dermal matrix and reduces any excess of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the dermis. Increased levels of GAGs are characteristic of sun-damaged and wrinkled skin. Normal structure and function of the dermal matrix requires low levels of GAGs. High levels of GAGs are associated to an unhealthy skin aspect. For example, the folded skin of Shar Pei dogs results of an excess of GAGs in the dermis. Clinical assays based on chemical peeling and trans-retinoic acid treatments to mice revealed that the reduction of wrinkles was associated to a decrease in the amount of GAGs in the dermis. Further assays demonstrated that niacinamide reduced excessive GAGs production in dermal fibroblasts of aged human skin, a finding that supports the theory that excessive GAGs production is involved in the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, also acts as a co-factor in the collagen synthesis. Vitamin C is essential for proline hydroxylation to occur. Consequently, it is essential to produce and maintain the integrity of collagen (Chiu, A. & Kimball, AB., 2003). Figure 1. Triple helix of collagen Therefore, Mango Eco extract is highly recommendable to formulate anti-ageing cosmetic products. Cell regeneration stimulating activity This activity is due to the α-hydroxyacids (AHA) content of mango. AHA act at the stratum corneum level. They act on the cohesion between corneocytes in the deepest layers, so that they make the stratum corneum thinner and improve skin flexibility. Thus, Mango Eco extract is recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with exfoliating activity. BIBLIOGRAPHIC EFFICACY STUDIES Several factors can originate dry skin (genetic, intrinsic, extrinsic). Skin that is considered dry-skin shows unusual dryness, roughness and altered skin desquamation. In general, such symptoms cannot be treated with a conventional moisturizer only. V 01-02/

5 1. Experimental method Kempers, S. et al (1998) carried out a study to evaluate the safety and efficacy of two new α-hydroxyacid (AHA)-containing creams aimed at enhancing the appearance and relieving the symptoms of dry skin. This study was conducted on 20 subjects showing moderate to severe dry skin on at least 20% of their bodies. The tested areas were the external side of the legs and the external side of the forearms. The evaluated products were two AHA-containing creams, one with normal action and one with strong action. Control areas were treated with a moisturizing formulation without AHAs. Observations and measurements were made on week 0 (W0), week 2 (W2) and week 4 (W4). 2. Results Areas treated with the strong-action cream showed highly significant reduction of dryness on weeks 2 and 4, as compared to week 0 (P<0.001). Furthermore, the moisturizing effect on week 4 was higher than that on week 2 (P<0.05), indicating that the enhancing effects of the treatment were still effective after two weeks. Skin enhancement on these areas was also significant on weeks 2 (P<0.05) and 4 (P<0.001) as compared with control areas treated with the moisturizing lotion without AHAs. Figure 1 shows the evolution of dryness and erythema on areas treated with the strong-action cream considering its mean scores (0: none, 1: mild, 2: moderate, 3: marked, 4: severe). Fig.1. Evolution of dryness and erythema on the areas treated with a strong-action cream containing AHAs (Kempers S et al., 1998). Subjects treated with the normal-action cream showed similar evolution to that of subjects treated with the strong-action cream. 3. Conclusion The tested formulations reduced the symptoms and enhanced the appearance of dry skin after two weeks application. Enhancement was observed also after 4 weeks of treatment. The effects were stronger in persons with more severe symptoms. Erythema-related measurements kept relatively constant, although they showed some improvement. V 01-02/

6 COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic Application Transepidermal water loss regulation AHA -Moisturizing Acts on the hair shafts AHA -Hair care Antioxidant Collagen synthesis stimulant AHA Vitamin C Vitamin C -Free radical scavenging -Anti-aging -Photo-protection -Hair color protection -Anti-ageing Cell regeneration stimulating activity AHA -Exfoliating RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. BIBLIOGRAPHY Belitz, HD. & Grosch, W. Química de los Alimentos. Zaragoza: Ed.Acribia S.A, Capítulo 18 (613 BEL). Bissett, D.L. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005; 31 (7 Pt 2): Bissett, D.L. et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2004; 26: Jouandeaud, M. et al. The Influence of Oligosaccharides on Skin Aging: An Alternative to Retinoids. C&T, 2004; 119 (6): (ref. 6652). Kalra, SK, Tandon, DK, Singh, BP. Mango In Handbook of Fruit Science and Technology. Production, Composition, Storage, and Processing. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc., 1995; p: (ref. 641* SAL). MacDonald, A. & Forsyth, A. Nutritional deficiencies and the skin. Clin Exp Dermatol, 2005; 30: Soma, Y. et al. Moisturizing effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol., 2005; 44 (3): Nojiri, M. et al. A novel technology for improving hair setting ability and its mechanism. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2004; 55 (Supplement): Yu, RJ & Van Scott, EJ. Hydroxycarboxylic acids, N-acetylamino sugars, and N-acetylamino acids. Skinmed., 2002; 1 (2): Websites: V 01-02/