SELVEDGE RUN. Magazine for quality menswear and crafted goods. FOCUS ON THE GOOD

Transcription

1 SELVEDGE RUN Magazine for quality menswear and crafted goods. FOCUS ON THE GOOD Autumn/Winter 2017 n 4

2 Selvedge Run is a trade show for menswear, shoes, accessories and lifestyle goods: a home for brands with character. As a show, we celebrate garments and products that are made in the best way possible and created to endure. This normally means making them in traditional, slow methods of manufacture. Items made with this in mind endure and grow alongside the owner. It is the anti-fast-fashion way of doing things. The brands that are invited and showing are the embodiment of what we as a show represent: brands with craft, brands with a narrative, brands with an ethical focus, and brands with longevity designed into their wares. KULTURBRAUEREI BERLIN SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE BERLIN TUESDAY / , 10 AM 7 PM WEDNESDAY / , 10 AM 7 PM THURSDAY / , 10 AM 4 PM 2 3

3 CONTENT BR ANDS B ra n d L i s t P. 06 A F P F S P S Z P T h e M a ke r s Ya rd P. 42 STO R I E S & I N T E RV I E W S 01 P P P. 46 Noodles, Noodles & Noodles Corp. Jon Mortimer Markthalle Neun TO P LO C AT I O N S BERLIN Palais Veranstaltungs GmbH 4 5 Bars P. 50 R e s t a u ra n t s P. 52 St o re s P. 54 Imprint P. 59

4 # P. 08 3SIXTEEN P. 15 E-JEANS A P. 15 EDWIN P. 15 EMMA OPITZ P. 08 A PIECE OF CHIC P. 08 A.B.C.L. JAPAN P. 08 ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN P. 15 FDB PARIS P. 09 ATALAYE - BAIN DE BIARRITZ P. 16 FILSON B P. 17 FLEURS DE BAGNE F P. 17 FOR HOLDING UP THE TROUSERS P. 09 BAKUTO 893 P. 09 BENZAK DENIM DEVELOPERS P. 17 FORTIN HATS P. 09 BLACKDAYS P. 22 FREENOTE CLOTH P. 11 P. 11 P. 11 BLAUMANN JEANSHOSEN G BLEU DE CHAUFFE BLUE DE GÊNES P. 11 BLUE SAKURA P. 12 BUTTS AND SHOULDERS L E P. 22 GINEW P. 22 GOLT & BAER P. 22 GRENSON H C LAVENHAM P. 36 T.K. TALI KUSHNIR M P. 37 TANNER GOODS P. 37 TCB JEANS P. 37 TELLASON P. 37 THE COOPER COLLECTION BY LEE COOPER P. 38 THEDI LEATHERS P. 38 TIMELESS LEATHER P. 38 TRIPPEN P. 25 MAPLETON P. 26 MERZ B. SCHWANEN P. 26 MOMOTARO O P. 26 ONDURA DURABLE GOODS P. 26 ORGUEIL U P P. 27 PALLET LIFE STORY P. 27 PURE BLUE JAPAN R P. 27 RED WING HERITAGE P. 27 REDS P. 28 REUZEL P. 38 UNIVERSAL WORKS P. 39 UNMARKED P. 39 UPSTATE STOCK V P. 40 VIBERG P. 40 VOYEJ W P. 23 HANSEN P. 28 RISING SUN & CO. P. 23 HARRY DAMSON P. 28 RUNABOUT P. 40 WOLVERINE P. 23 HEMEN P. 41 WOOD AND FAULK P. 23 HIGH LARGE LEATHERS S P. 41 WRENCH AND NEEDLE P. 41 WRENCHMONKEES P. 12 CAPTAIN SANTORS P. 12 CHAPMAN P. 12 CHIPPEWA P. 13 CHRISTYS HATS P. 13 CLUTCH MAGAZINE P. 13 CONVERSE P. 24 P. 13 CRESCENT DOWN WORKS D P. 29 S.F.K. P. 28 S.N.S. HERNING INDIGO PEOPLE P. 29 SALVATORE PICCOLO P. 24 INDIGOFERA P. 29 SCHUH-BERTL P. 24 IRON AND RESIN P. 30 SENIO MADE BY KURASHIKI KOJIMA J P. 30 SETTO P. 30 SIMMONS BILT P. 30 SOULIVE P. 36 SPORTS D EPOQUE P. 31 STETSON P. 36 STIGHLORGAN P. 36 STUDIO D ARTISAN I P. 14 DEHEN 1920 P. 14 DENIM.LAB P. 24 JAPAN BLUE JEANS P. 14 DUNDAS FOOTWEAR P. 25 JUNIPER RIDGE P. 14 DYEMOND GOODS K P P. 25 T KESTIN HARE Z P ZEHA BERLIN BR ANDS

5 3SIXTEEN ATALAYE BAIN DE BIARRITZ, Denim, Accessories, Lifestyle Origin: France Andrew Chen, Johan Lam Stefan Kudla A PIECE OF CHIC BAKUTO 893 Category: Accessories Origin: France Origin: Italy Sébastien Chirpaz Gianfilippo Pieiraforte sebastien@apieceofchic.fr bakuto893@gmail.com A.B.C.L. JAPAN BENZAK DENIM DEVELOPERS Category: Denim, Apparel Origin: Holland/Japan Mattia Cavinato Lennaert Nijgh abcl.japan@gmail.com info@benzakdenimdevelopers.com ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN BLACKDAYS Origin: Denmark Category: Accessories, Apparel Origin: Sweden Nina Bonne Breum Martin Jahnke nina@andersen-andersen.com martin@blackdays.co Brands / A F 8 Brands / A F 9

6 BLAUMANN JEANSHOSEN Category: Denim The Ultimate Riding Machine Guido Wetzels BLEU DE CHAUFFE Category: Bags/Luggage Origin: France Stefan Kudla bleu-de-chauffe.com BLUE DE GÊNES Category: Denim, Apparel Origin: Denmark Stefan Kudla LEGENDS NEVER FOLLOW. THE NEW BMW R NINE T RACER. Your time is now. Make no compromises and do what you feel like with the new BMW R ninet Racer. Its air-cooled boxer engine and the classic half fairing are not only a reminiscence to the legendary sportbikes of the 70s they make a statement on every corner. Find out more at bmw-motorrad.com/racer BLUE SAKURA Category: Denim Shuji Ishibashi s.ishibashi@whoval.com 10 Brands / A F 11

7 BUTTS AND SHOULDERS CHRISTYS HATS Category: Bags/Luggage, Shoes/Boots, Accessories Origin: Netherlands Category: Hats Origin: United Kingdom Wouter Munnichs Mojgan Goshtasb / YKON Agency wouter@buttsandshoulders.com mo@ykon-agency.com / CAPTAIN SANTORS CLUTCH MAGAZINE Category: Accessories, Apparel Origin: Italy Category: Publication Gianluigi Santoro Atsushi Matsushima info@captainsantors.it a.matsushima@ei-publishing.co.jp CHAPMAN CONVERSE Category: Bags/Luggage Origin: United Kingdom Category: Shoes/Boots Daniel Chamier Pascal Schmidt dan@chapmanbags.com pascal.schmidt@converse.com Web: CHIPPEWA CRESCENT DOWN WORKS Category: Shoes/Boots Judith Lauruschkat Annie Michelson j.lauruschkat@action-sports.de annie@crescentdownworks.com Brands / A F 12 Brands / A F 13

8 DEHEN 1920 E-JEANS Category: Denim Jim Artaiz Yasuhiko Nakagawa DENIM.LAB EDWIN Category: Denim Origin: Netherlands Category: Denim, Apparel, Accessories Sander van de Vecht Youssef el Allali DUNDAS FOOTWEAR EMMA OPITZ Category: Shoes/Boots Origin: Norway Category: Accessories Helge Mamen Marc Tuerkheim DYEMOND GOODS FDB PARIS Category: Bags/Luggage Origin: Netherlands Origin: France Mike Van Der Sander François Terrien Brands / A F 14 Brands / A F 15

9 FLEURS DE BAGNE Origin: France Michael Dumas Michael Dumas is passionate about two things: the rich history of French criminal tattoo culture and vintage workwear clothing. Both passions are combined into Fleurs de Bagne. All pieces are produced in France from the very best materials and crafted to the highest quality. Fleurs de Bagne focusses on quality and not the quantity, creating an original rather than a copy, and staying authentic and rugged while disregarding the mass market - this is the essence of Fleurs de Bagne. FOR HOLDING UP THE TROUSERS Category: Accessories Origin: Denmark Morten V. Kristensen FILSON BUILT TO LAST Our natural, iconic materials are engineered using standards that endure the test of time, and our products are made with relentless attention to strength and quality. We use the Pacific Northwest as our proving ground, stubbornly building gear that withstands the demands of the field and lasts a lifetime., Luggage, Accessories BUILT WITH PURPOSE Every item in our factory is built with the knowledge of those who have gone before. We keep in mind everything our customers need in our products and nothing they don t. Andy Loesch OUR PROMISE We have always maintained the firm belief that there is no journey or expedition in which the quality of one s equipment and clothing does not matter absolutely. Since 1897 this standard has not wavered. andy.loesch@filson.com Brands / A F 16 morten@forholdingupthetrousers.com FORTIN HATS Category: Hats Rebecca Fortin fortinhats@gmail.com Brands / A F 17

10 CALLING ON THE CR AF TSMANSHIP OF V I N TAG E. Back in the early 90s, a group of friends came together in the area around Dusseldorf, Germany. They would search through the abandoned factories, hunting for furniture and goods to outfit their own studio space. Over time, they would recognise the inherent quality found in furniture made for a purpose - it was the concept of form following function brought to life. Noodles, Noodles & Noodles Corp. was born in a time when mass manufacturing in furniture was about to sweep the world. But, these pieces - discovered some 25 years earlier - struck a chord, and the group developed a commitment to the principles they had uncovered. Over the next two decades, they crafted an instantly recognisable aesthetic, were among the founders of Bread and Butter, and have maintained their dedication to quality and ethics throughout. Today, this dedication to craft and quality within manufacturing is as relevant as ever and, indeed, more essential than it was 25 years ago. We sat down with the founders, Christian Geyr and Wolfgang Ahlers, to find out why. How was Noodles Noodles and Noodles founded? Do you see a return to craft and quality after the avalanche of cheap and disposable furniture in the last 20 years? We started as friends.this was the main point: we wanted to do something together. Back in the early 90s, we started dealing in furniture and collecting old vintage furniture pieces from abandoned factories. Some we kept and some we sold on. Vintage is becoming the new antique, and we create vintage designed furniture. Vintage for us is a term which describes a certain type of product that preserves the original style in the original condition. It is not the second or third edition of the design: it is the first edition. At this time, we were doing shoots and styling for magazines and catalogues. People recognised that we had a workshop and would ask, could you do our stand for a fair?. It then grew to, can you do our showroom? and continued from there. NO ODLES, NO ODLES & NO ODLES CORP. We are creating this furniture by following the principles of traditional manufacturing, using the same materials and the same style. It s not old: It s brand new. This is increasingly appreciated as more and more people are after this kind of quality. When a friend turned up with some beds from Spain, we ended up inventing our first furniture piece. At the time, we were working on an entry way for a Disco with jailhouse style, cage bars. We combined this with the bed design. Although this was just produced for fun, we quickly had to take it seriously. Shops were asking for them, along with other items: a side table, or a shelf in the same style. When it comes to the furniture, craftsmanship is disappearing. With this loss, an appreciation of quality design and manufacturing is ushered in. There is a desire to depart from mass production. It is always wonderful to see the reactions as people come into contact with our products for the first time. They not only love the visual but the surface texture, the feeling. Text: Matt Wilson 18 19

11 Providing people with something they can value and cherish for years to come is an important aspect of sustainability, something which, in the last 10 years, has grown in significance. This movement will only become stronger as people increasingly look for things that could last them forever. People don t mind investing in this quality and longevity. We are not cheap, but, we are also not expensive. People come to us saying, now it is time to invest in a sideboard or a shelf. You also co-founded Bread and Butter. How did this come about? We co-founded Bread and Butter with Karl-Heinz (Müller). At this time, Noodles did a special presentation of Authentic Furniture parallel to the IMM (International Möbel Messe). It was a sparkling event that took place in a scenic old factory building. We created a great atmosphere it was this feeling that inspired Karl-Heinz who was just shaking up the retailer scene with his newly opened 14oz. store in Cologne. He wanted to emulate this in the form of a fashion trade show, which we then started together. We created something that was totally different from the established fairs of that time. We provided fantastic catering, central music management by cutting edge DJs, an open feeling in the hall, great service; and, most importantly, a curated collection of brands, plus a strong brand communication. We started with brands, but it was the right answer at the right time. From the outset, it was a huge success. The visitor recognised that this is how a fair should be: it was about atmosphere, community, sustainability. Even then, it was what people were burning for. It may seem like the norm now, but the principals we introduced at that time set the standard for the shows of today. That is why we like Selvedge Run so much: all the brands are moving in the same direction, it is about quality, it is about value. No mass manufacture, smaller brands, quality, individualism - and that fits, it really is our world. The furniture fits perfectly with the brands, like they were always together. As much as it is about the story, it is about presentation; and, therefore, we are delighted to add our name to the show. Image Courtesy of NOODLES, NOODLES & NOODLES CORP

12 FREENOTE CLOTH HANSEN Origin: Denmark Category: Denim, Apparel David Strong Per Chrois, Søren Konstante Nissen GINEW HARRY DAMSON Category: Accessories, Apparel Category: Accessories, Apparel Erik R. Brodt Frank Damson GOLT & BAER HEMEN Category: Accessories Category: Accessories Origin: France Tintin Satzenhofer Stefan Kudla GRENSON HIGH LARGE LEATHERS Category: Shoes/Boots Origin: United Kingdom Magnus Carstensen, Sarah Hutchinson Yoshikatsu Yamazaki Brands / F S 22 Brands / F S 23

13 INDIGO PEOPLE JUNIPER RIDGE Category: Accessories, Apparel Origin: Netherlands Category: Fragrance Kiat Yen, Johan van de Berg Fredrik Norin INDIGOFERA KESTIN HARE Category: Denim, Apparel, Accessories Origin: Sweden Origin: United Kingdom Mats Anderson, Kari Salmela Stefan Kudla IRON AND RESIN LAVENHAM Origin: United Kingdom Niccolo Veccairelli Conrad Hasselbach JAPAN BLUE JEANS MAPLETON Category: Denim Category: Accessories, Apparel Katsu Manabe Stefan Kudla Brands / F S 24 Brands / F S 25

14 MERZ B. SCHWANEN PALLET LIFE STORY Category: Denim Category: Apparel Peter Plotnicki Yoshinori Hasuoka MOMOTARO PURE BLUE JAPAN Category: Denim Category: Denim Katsu Manabe Kenichi Iwaya ONDURA DURABLE GOODS RED WING HERITAGE Category: Shoes/Boots, Accessories Category: Accessories Leens Ondra Alexander Bonk ORGUEIL RED S Origin: Italy Yoshiyuki Yakushiji Stefan Kudla international@dartisan.co.jp kudla@last-of-the-true.com Brands / F S 26 Brands / F S 27

15 REUZEL S.F.K. Category: Accessories, Lifestyle Origin: Netherlands Category: Accessories, Apparel Origin: Taiwan Kurt Chen Stefan Kudla S.F.K. was founded in 2010 as the first brand attached to the Faith & Co store in Taiwan. It comprises a range of products, inspired by the aesthetic of the 1940 s and 1950 s that embraces the spirit and methods of manufacture associated with the industrial golden age. The demands of modern life and function are taken into account from the very beginning of the design process. This results in high quality, detailed, and practical clothing, accessories, and household objects. RUNABOUT SALVATORE PICCOLO Origin: Italy Mike Hodis Erminia Pinto mike@runaboutgoods.com info@salvatorepiccolo.com RISING SUN & CO. Category: Denim Barry van den Heuvel barry@black-and-blue.nl S.N.S. HERNING SCHUH-BERTL Origin: Denmark Category: Shoes/Boots Magnus Carstensen A. Kreca order@magnuswholesale.com info@schuh-bertl.de Brands / F S 28 Brands / F S 29

16 SENIO MADE BY KURASHIKI KOJIMA Category: Denim Kohji Niwa SETTO Nobutaka Ando SIMMONS BILT Origin: United Kingdom Steve Toohey STETSON SOULIVE Category: Denim, Apparel Category: Hats Takahiro Izawa Stetson Europe Brands / F S 30 Brands / F S Stetson pays homage to its ancestors people who rolled up their sleeves and created things that were meant to last for generations to come. Using timeless looks, Stetson builds a bridge between slaving away in the industrial age with the creativity of today s service culture, highlights contrasts, and, at the same time, emphasizes the enduring aspects of the change. Stetson presents the new styles against the backdrop of historic architecture: the shoot for the Fall/Winter 2017 campaign was realized in cooperation with the Zollverein Foundation and the Möbelloft creators at the Zollverein UNESCO world heritage site. A traditional lifestyle in ever changing times perfect for those who do not want to look as if they cared about the continuous change. 31

17 CAPTURING CR AF TMANSHIP We may not be used to thinking of photographers as craftsmen but after speaking to photographer Jon Mortimer, for a moment, you ll understand that he views photography as a craft: one that needs to be honed over many years. In his early career, Jon came into contact with many of the greats, such as Annie Lebowitz, Albert Watson, and Norman Watson. He watched and learned. He discovered how to capture the subject, how light falls on objects, and how he could capture this moment in a picture. Text: Matt Wilson JON MORTIMER 32 We talked to Jon about the development of his craft, finding his eye, the emergence of digital, and the undefinable quality that, to this day, is still only found on film film being the old-fashioned way, the slow process. 33

18 IT MAY NOT BE PERFECT FROM A TECHNICAL POINT OF VIEW, BUT FROM AN AESTHETIC AND EMOTIONAL POINT OF VIEW, IT S PERFECT. How did you get started in the industry? however, requires a light meter reading; you have to understand your shutter speed and aperture and how they work together. The instant feedback of digital means you can loose the process of learning the craft of photography. I think this is a real shame. I started assisting a friend of mine when I was 16 or 17. After this, I moved into one of the biggest studios in London. I was there for two years working with many amazing photographers. Over the next five years, I discovered who I was as a photographer, I found my eye. I found a camera, the Pentax 67, which allowed me to emulate the look crafted by Albert Watson or early reportage of people like Cartier-Bresson or Tony Ray Jones - the street photographers. The Pentax allowed me to use that sort of style within a studio environment. Digital images are clean, crisp, and sharp. But, quality cannot be defined in these terms sometimes you want something that transcends the perfect image, you want to capture something with a bit more soul. There is something embedded in film technology which, whether by design or not, provides this undefinable quality. It may not be perfect from a technical point of view, but from an aesthetic and emotional point of view, it s perfect. You must have witnessed the shift from Analog Photography to digital: how did this impact your craft? I think I am a better photographer because I learned the intricacies of film. It took a long time for digital to provide the quality required for commercial work. At first, the Editorial Magazines wanted to hold onto the feeling of film photography. So, what inspires you going forward? The other side of it, beyond the technical. It s not just photography: it s the subjects that you choose. What draws me to working with the people I do is the craft side of it. The love of the subject is something that defines my photography. I love meeting people, talking to them, and photographing them. It gives me access to aspects of craft that I d normally never see. I can spend the day at a craftsmen s atelier, filming, photographing and talking to them - I wouldn t be able to do that, otherwise. It s a massive kick for me. Once the quality did catch up, there was a shift in the publishing world. Magazines would launch with no money: they could produce magazines by getting a photographer to do it for free and there were no film and processing costs. This was the moment digital took over from film. From the early 2000s onward, It was an avalanche. Digital is not without its advantages. It made photography much more accessible: you can learn how to take photographs without the high costs of film and processing. But, with digital, there is a tendency to get lazy. Film photography, ² Nigel Cabourn by Jon Mortimer 34 35

19 SPORTS D EPOQUE TANNER GOODS Origin: France Category: Accessories Benoit D argenlieu Jevan Lautz benoit@sports-depoque.com jevan@tannergoods.com STIGHLORGAN TCB JEANS Category: Bags/Luggage, Accessories Origin: United Kingdom Category: Denim Stefan Kudla Hajime Inoue kudla@last-of-the-true.com tcbinoue@gmail.com STUDIO D ARTISAN TELLASON Category: Denim Category: Denim, Apparel Tony Patella, Pete Searson Yoshiyuki Yakushiji tony@tellason.com, pete@tellason.com international@dartisan.co.jp T.K. TALI KUSHNIR THE COOPER COLLECTION BY LEE COOPER Origin: Israel Category: Denim Origin: United Kingdom Tali Kushnir Luca Montaldo talikushnir@gmail.com LMontaldo@leecooperbrands.com Brands / S Z 36 Brands / S Z 37

20 THEDI LEATHERS Origin: Greece Frank Damson TIMELESS LEATHER WELCOME TO THE NEW FRONTIER Category: Accessories Sebesatian Werle DRINK RESPONSIBLY Bulleit Ad 3.indd 1 TRIPPEN UNMARKED Category: Shoes/Boots /Italy Category: Shoes/Boots Origin: Mexico Annette May Claribel Pérez annette@trippen.com claribel@unmarked.mx UNIVERSAL WORKS UPSTATE STOCK Origin: United Kingdom Category: Accessories Stefan Kudla Fredrik Norin kudla@last-of-the-true.com fredrik.johansson@thegrocery.se Brands / S Z 38 Brands / S Z 22/12/ :43 39

21 VOYEJ WOOD & FAULK Category: Accessories Origin: Indonesia Category: Bags/Luggage, Accessories Matt Pierce Stephen Lucas WRENCH & NEEDLE Inspired by a man s passion for the journey, VOYEJ, as a brand, implies the excitement of the personal journey through leather goods made of well-chosen materials. Each product is a form of prudent design with a simple, yet aesthetic, concept. The aim is to create a functional product that is contemporary and enduring. We hope to provide durable goods that the owner can pass onto the next generations. Category: Accessories Origin: Turkey Serdar Keskin info@wrenchandneedle.com VIBERG WRENCHMONKEES Category: Shoes/Boots Origin: Canada, Accessories Origin: Denmark Guy Ferguson Andreas Garrido guy@viberg.com ag@brandunit.dk WOLVERINE ZEHA BERLIN Category: Shoes/Boots Category: Shoes/Boots Stefan Kudla Alexander Barré, Mojgan Goshtasb kudla@last-of-the-true.com alexander.barre@zeha-berlin.de, mojgan@zeha-berlin.de Brands / S Z 40 Brands / S Z 41

22 TH E Home Men s G roomi ng Food Mobil i t y Selection A CURATED SPACE FOR CURIOUS PEOPLE. BEYER S OIL CARL MERTENS Category: Men s Grooming [] Bastian Beyer info@beyersoil.com Category: Home [] Moritz Wenz info@moritzwenz.de ELIXIER GIN COBOC Category: Food [] Fabienne Lange fabienne.lange@gmx.de Category: Mobility [] Annalena Horsch annalena.horsch@coboc.biz FLYING ROASTERS GESTALTEN Category: Food [] Nadine Heymann mail@flyingroasters.de Category: Home [] Elena Leube press@gestalten.com INDIGOFERA BLANKETS JUNIPER RIDGE Category: Home Origin: Sweden [] Mats Anderson mats@indigoferajeans.com Category: Home, Men s Grooming [] Mats Anderson mats@indigoferajeans.com MORITZ WENZ STUDIO NAOMI GOODSIR Category: Home [] Moritz Wenz info@moritzwenz.de The Makers Yard 42 The Makers Yard Out door Category: Men s Grooming Origin: France / Australia [] Frauke Sehner info@instinctbrands.com

23 O DONNELL MOONSHINE OT TER MESSER Category: Food [] Philip Morsink, August Ullrich Category: Home [] Moritz Wenz PASSIONFRANCE RAUMGESTALT Category: Accessories Origin: France [] Wolfgang Lantelme Category: Home [] Jutta Rothe RAW BIBLE THEBARBER.CH Category: Home [] Michael Schimdt Category: Men s Grooming Origin: Switzerland [] Eddine info@thebarber.ch THE HERITAGE POST TRIUMPH AND DISASTER Category: Home [] Annika Tenhaeff a.tenhaeff@theheritagepost.com Category: Men s Grooming Origin: New Zealand [] Frauke Sehner info@instinctbrands.com Furniture sponsored by URBAN LIGHT FACTORY NOODLES, NOODLES & NOODLES CORP. Category: Germany Origin: Home [] Ulf Schulz mail@urban-light-factory.com The Makers Yard 44 The Makers Yard Category: Germany Origin: Home [] Wolfgang Ahlers wolfgang@noodles.de 45

24 THE WAY TO THE HE ART OF A CO M M U N I T Y IS T H RO U G H ITS STOMACH. MARKTHALLE NEUN With the postwar emergence of supermarkets and large-scale discounters, marketplaces and market halls slowly fell to the wayside. Along with them, the vendors, the independent stalls, and the sense of community also withered. In the last decade, however, the notion of bio-produce, of sustainability and environmental consciousness has fostered a renaissance in the food scene in Berlin. One such pioneer is the Markthalle Neun. Nestled in the Kreuzberg district, what was once in the West of divided Berlin, the hall and its recent resurrection is a testament to the community spirit that is still alive and kicking in this neighborhood. This spirit, like all genuine intentions, is contagious and has fostered a reawakening of the Marketplace concept within a community. Historically, marketplaces and market halls were the hub of a community. Vendors would sell their produce at stalls run independently - where the visitor would come directly into contact with the people behind their purchases. Text: Matt Wilson 46 two independent vendors left in the Markthalle Neun. Large discounters such as Aldi, KIK fabrics, and a drugstore had been moved in by the city to try to make the hall profitable - but to no avail. In the early 2000s the city decided that the duty of feeding the urban population was no longer their responsibility. It was decided that the Markthalle Neun would be sold off to a large supermarket chain; this was when the Kreuzberg community as a whole stepped in and said no! Markthalle Neun was once one of 14 market halls spread across Berlin. When the halls were constructed 125 years ago, the ability to feed the cities populous was regarded as a public service from the city itself. After the Second World War, a steady decline in small vendors manning independent stalls ensued. Eventually, there were only There was a peaceful protest in which 500 locals occupied the hall for a cup of coffee. It was a friendly and well-intentioned revolution. And it worked: the city took notice and the plans to sell off to the supermarket were scrapped. 47

25 The city council started looking to the sale of the hall in a different light. Shifting the focus away from what would bring the biggest value in monetary terms, the city, instead, sought to determine what would bring the biggest value to the community. It was a long process, but the winning bidders were a group who looked to return the market hall to its original purpose. With a focus on food, the market hall would once again house small, independent vendors; all of whom would represent the very best in their chosen produce. The concept had certain cornerstones: a focus on food, a focus on quality, a curated selection of produce, and the creation of a community. The central question was what does a market look like today? Although there are no clear-cut answers, the notion of assigning more intangible values to a physical space within a community has had tangible benefits. The Markthalle Neun has been running in its current guise for five years. During this time, a new avenue of business has been developed. An entirely new range of food startups were formed, using the Markthalle Neun to expand into this new world, and created 200 new jobs in the process. The Markthalle Neun can take some of the credit for changing the face of the food scene in Berlin. This reaches out to a national, and at times, international level. The notion of craft and sustainability within all consumables has, in a very short time, gone from a marginalised - and at times scoffed at - fringe community to a relevant movement within the public consciousness. The success of the Markthalle Neun can be attributed to the hard work and persistence of a few, along with the support of a local community. But, it is also a testament to the development of the public consciousness towards consumables. This awareness and engagement around where and how a product, or produce, has been made has become a powerful influence one that will seepositive ripples throughout enterprise as a whole. The Markthalle Neun is open throughout the week hosting a regular market and, on occasion, specialized events, such as Cheese Berlin, Sunday s Breakfast Market, and the famous Street Food Thursday. It s well worth a visit

26 TOP LO CATIONS BERLIN NEUE O D E SS A BA R K ASCHK Category: Bar Category: Bar SOME MORE B A R I M M E RT R E U Christburger Str Berlin B E C K E T T S KO P F BARS / RESTAUR ANTS Neue Odessa Bar: beauty of the night, dominion of the eccentric and enthusiastic. Enjoy exquisite cocktails and a night that seems to go on forever. Take in the music and become a part of the madness. Finish your drink because it s just about time to dance. A mirrored boudoir. Classic cocktails, crémant & champagne. Pop & soul? House & punk? Take a chance. Come see us we promise there will be flowers. Torstr Berlin Cafe by day, craft beer bar by night. Kaschk focuses on high quality locally roasted coffee and an eclectic selection of Nordic and local craft beer. On top of that, you can battle the night away downstairs on Germany s first shuffleboards. Kaschk is located at the base of the iconic L40 building in Berlin s Mitte district. The name derives from both a region in Norway as well as a traditional Norwegian blend of home-made liquor and coffee. Similarly, Kaschk is a delightful blend of Nordic craft beer and speciality coffee. Pappelallee Berlin S C H WA R Z S AU E R Kastanienallee Berlin W Ü RG E E N G E L Linienstraße 40, Berlin Dresdener Str Berlin Monday-Thursday: 8 am 2 am Friday: 8 am 3 am Saturday: 10 am 3 am Sunday: 10 am 2 am S TA G G E R L E E Daily from 7 pm STORES contact@kaschk.de *NEUE ODESSA BAR Top Locations 50 Top Locations 51 Nollendorfstraße Berlin

27 DER HAHN I ST TOT D O N AT H ROA M E R S K ANTINE KO H L M A N N TUCHOL SKY S ZU M D R I T T E N MANN Category: Restaurant Category: Restaurant Category: Restaurant Category: Restaurant Category: Restaurant Category: Restaurant In Der Hahn ist tot, you will find a cosy atmosphere beautifully combined with a stylish lounge where you have the choice of romantic tables for two, long tables for larger groups, or comfy booths. The dishes are inspired by countryside variations of German and French cuisine that complement each other in a delightful way. For both historical and geographical reasons, France and Germany come together perfectly in the kitchen. Some of the finest examples are dishes such as Boeuf á la mode, Choucroute und Moules et Frites which are, of course, present on restaurant menus in certain regions of both countries. They don t boast in the Der Hahn ist tot kitchen: they simply cook hearty dishes with flair, made with the finest and freshest ingredients. All the dishes, from the soup to the dessert, are countryside-classics, delicate and simple, satisfying with an edge. At Der Hahn ist tot, they love nothing more than watching their customers leaving full, jolly, and maybe a bit tipsy. We came from Friaul, a small area in the north-east of Italy where they always drink wine! This has nothing to do with alcohol abuse, for God s sake no; it is just that our beautiful culture is watered with plenty of wine. So, at the end of November 2001, it was set: we took over the pub at 14 Schwedter Street. The building was founded back in 1907 and the laundry business was run under the name Donath but with a different owner at that time. We kept the name, Donath. Zionskirchstraße Berlin Habemus Vinum! Berlin was a bit different back then and here, in the East of Berlin, even more so. There was barely any wine at all and, if so, not the kind of wine we were used to from back home. We had to get to know these cafe latte drinkers. We respected them, got to know them and appreciated the culture. But, the question remained: where did the wine go? So, we imported it ourselves and have expanded to include salami and cheese from the Friaul. We also imported our first chef, and the second one and so on. 15 years just passed by, with a lot of wine, many friends, and the feeling of being able to create a place called home. Daily from 6:30 pm Farmhouse charm with a breeze of California, woody & rustic, stuffed with plants & country music, handcrafted food adorned with a fistful of love. Pannierstraße Berlin Mondays Closed Weekdays 9.30 am 7 pm Weekends 10 am 7 pm As the sun sets, bathing Skalitzer Straße in a golden light, Kantine Kohlmann opens its doors on Schlesischen Tor in the colourful, lively, never resting Kreuzberg. In the restaurant, remnants of daysgone having been fully reworked and complemented with design elements: a fifties-style wooden wall and a Chesterfield sofa contrasting the concrete fireplace and cement tile. The playfulness reflects the vibrancy of the Kreuzberg district itself. One sits at rustic oak tables, complete with antique silver napkin rings, as German cuisine is served in fresh and sometimes surprising interpretations. In addition to a streamlined evening menu, there are 9 smaller delicacies. Classics such as Königberger Klopse are combined with finely chopped capers, and bacon with tarragon is served as a taster in glass bowls. If you are satisfied with your meal, then it s time to move to the in-house bar to relax by the fireplace while sipping on some of the finest cocktails Berlin has to offer. Skalitzer Straße Berlin In Carol Reed s The third man, Orson Welles makes, probably, the most unexpected appearance in the history of cinema with his character, the presumed dead gunrunner Harry Lime. Exactly like him, the kitchen in the restaurant Zum is dritten Mann knows how to surprise. Roasted goat cheese with peppered fig jam, warm potato-radish salad with Wiener schnitzel, or a vegetarian seitan mushroom-rösti Chef Björn Nitz likes to give all of the dishes a personal touch. In an unobtrusive, pleasantly relaxed atmosphere, Zum is dritten Mann (the name non-coincidentally refers to Reed s movie it means to the third man ) offers classical dishes from traditional Austrian cuisine: Tafelspitz and Wiener schnitzel is made with love and creativity, while a distinguished selection of Austrian wines complement the delicate dishes. The restaurant combines the original design of modern Berlin with the creative consciousness for the tradition of the new Viennese cuisine. There s plenty to discover, both in the dining area and on the menu. And, in the weekend, the guests can expect original Austrian cheese and sausage specialities for breakfast. Tuchholsky s, the restaurant of the Neue Odessa Bar, is the newest address for German cuisine in Berlin s Mitte district. Over Sylt mussels, fir honey parfait, and the finest cocktails, revel in the hustle of Torstraße and the versatility of German food, seven days a week. With modern design, contemporary art, and an elegant bar, Tuchholsky s is the very image of a stylish restaurant. Tel. +49 (0) mail@tucholskys.de Daily from 6 pm Tel. +49 (0) Kollwitzstraße Berlin Torstraße Berlin Daily from 6 pm Tel. +49 (0) Schwedter Straße Berlin Daily from 12 pm Daily from 12 pm Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) Top Locations 52 Top Locations 53

28 FEIN UND RIPP TRÜFFELSCHWEIN Category: Store Category: Store Located in the vivid centre of Prenzlauer Berg, just around the corner from this year s Selvedge Run location, the men s clothing store fein und ripp holds true to its roots. Run by a father and his two sons, this shop presents a small selection of high-quality clothing brands which focus on heavy-duty, heritage-style garments: Pike Brothers, Wolverine Boots, Red Wings, Scarti Lab, Seldom, Schiesser Revival, and more. Yet, the real treasures are, without a doubt, the original shirts, suits, and pants that are up to ninety years old and never worn. These new old stock clothes consist of German worker undergarments from the 1920 s, Swedish working suits from the 1930 s, Russian army shirts from the 1970 s, and much more. In addition fein und ripp works together with several crafts(wo)men, from Germany, to manufacture make-do and mend meaning, they are made out of deadstock materials backpacks, vests, suspenders and caps. To round it all up, you can also get your hands on some high-quality booze to warm up those cold Berlin nights. Trueffelschwein opened in March 2007 as an alternative to the commercial, and often hype-driven, menswear choices in Berlin. Trueffelschwein strives to offer clothing choices based on a healthy mixture of aesthetics and quality with the intention of their customers to be looked at rather than ogled, to stand out rather than stick out, and to exude confidence without arrogance. They believe in finding and supporting, small and unknown, brands and designers rather than making a quick sale based on the popularity of a big brand. Although some of their small brands have since become heavy hitters, Trueffelschwein still manages to maintain a personal relationship with all of them and convey this in their selections and belief in personal service. 14 OZ. BURG & SCHILD Neue Schönhauser Str Berlin Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße Berlin MO SA from 11 am MO SA from 11 am Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) FIRMAMENT (BERLIN) M A N U FA K T U M Linienstrasse Berlin Hardenbergstraße Berlin MO SA from 11 am MO SA from 10 am Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) PA U L S B O U T I Q U E SOTO Oderberger Str Berlin Torstraße Berlin MO SA from 12 pm MO SA from 11 am Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) THE STORE (SOHO) VOOSTORE Torstrasse Berlin Oranienstraße Berlin MO SA from 10 am MO SA from 10 am Tel. +49 (0) Tel. +49 (0) Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße Berlin MO SA from 12 pm Tel. +49 (0) Kastanienallee 91/ Berlin MO SA from 12 pm Tel. +49 (0) Top Locations 54 Top Locations 55

29 Selvedge Run would not be possible without the support of like minded companies and individuals who share the ideas of the show within their respective field. You ll find the products of our partners at different places around the fair, and we can only encourage you to take a closer look - you won t be disappointed. THE SELVED GE RUN SHOW FO CUS ON THE G O OD IS PRESENTED BY OFFICIAL SPONSORS R M E D I A PA RT N E R S SUPPORTED BY CBXnet 56 57

30 IMPRINT S E LV E D G E R U N N 4 Berlin January 2017 PUBLISHER Selvedge Run GbR ART DIRECTION & DESIGN ffine / EDITOR IN CHIEF Hinnerk Dedecke EDITOR Matt Wilson ADDRESS Rykestraße 52, Berlin, Germany info@selvedgerun.com COVER WORK ffine T YPEFACE LL Brown, Maison Neue (Mono) COPRIGHT All rights are reserved by Selvedge Run GbR and all the photographers and the writers, Berlin Reproduction, incorporation into electronic databases and other forms of reproduction, also in excerpts, are only allowed with written permission of the photographers and writers

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