Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. 20th Annual Educational Conference. October 16-22, Nashville, Tennessee

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1 Association of Sewing and Design Professionals 20th Annual Educational Conference October 16-22, 2013 Nashville, Tennessee Music Valley Drive Nashville, TN

2 Table of Contents Page 3 Introduction and Welcome by President Teresa Nieswaag 4 About Nashville & Our Conference Venue 5-7 Conference Schedule At A Glance 8 Information on Early Bird Pricing 9 Life time Achievement Award Winner and Keynote Speaker 10 Schedule for Wednesday, October Schedule for Thursday, October Tour Information 13 Schedule for Friday, October Schedule for Saturday, October Schedule for Sunday, October Schedule for Monday, October Schedule for Tuesday, October Additional Information 32 Pricing Schedule

3 3 Welcome from ASDP President Welcome to Oh Sew Country, the 2013 ASDP National Educational Conference in Nashville, Tennessee, October There will be many exciting, memorable moments to experience during this year s gathering, with plenty of opportunities for professional growth and education. With 22 classes scheduled, the difficult part will be to choose which ones to take. From marketing your business, to embellishment of fabric and designs, to fine tuning or learning a new sewing or design skill, there are many opportunities that will make your time at conference very rewarding and informative. Master classes scheduled before and after the core conference allow for a more intensive learning experience. Thursday evening will be our president s reception, where there will be time for rekindling friendships and making new ones. Friday s luncheon will feature Kenneth D. King as our Keynote, with a question and answer panel-type presentation. The Sleeves Threads Challenge and fashion show will take place Friday evening with our Lifetime Achievement Award presentation. There will be an evening dinner cruise on a riverboat Saturday, for those who sign up; space is limited. As customary, our ASDP annual business meeting will take place Sunday with breakfast. Take some time to read through all of the information in this brochure, make your selections and sign up early to retain your place in your favorite class and activity choices. Oh Sew Country promises to be a jam packed, exciting time!

4 4 Nashville Tennessee Cowboy boots are not required but certainly acceptable. ~Alania Sheeley The 20th Annual ASDP Educational Conference to be held at the Inn At Opryland in Nashville, TN has been planned not only as an opportunity for all members to further their education but also with our need for building relationships, getting some recreation and having some fun! Although our venue is at Opryland, a distance from the city center, the hotel offers a shuttle hourly to downtown ($20 round trip) as well as to Gaylord Opryland and Opry Mills Mall (complimentary). This year our annual banquet will be a fun-filled cruise on the General Jackson Showboat, one of the largest showboats in the U.S. We will board the boat and enjoy a seated dinner as the boat makes it way up the Cumberland River to downtown Nashville; we ll see the city lights from the deck and then enjoy a stage show on our way back! Temperatures in Nashville in October are delightfully balmy. There s more to see and hear and taste than anyone can fit into one visit! So all that remains is to block off October as out-of-office on your schedule, choose your classes and register at the hotel, put on your boots and slip into Nashville for a riproaring good time!!

5 5 Conference Schedule At A Glance Tuesday, October 15 7:00-8:00 pm Conference Registration Wednesday, October 16 7:00-9:00 am Conference Registration 9:00-4:30 pm Day 1 Pre-Conference Master Classes: i. Catherine Stephenson Designing Using Advanced Draping Techniques ii. Veronica Chin Focus on Felts: The Art of Felt Hat Blocking 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch Thursday, October 17 7:00 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 8:30 am Tour bus departs for: Country Music Hall of Fame Manuel s Studio Textile Fabrics 9:00 am -4:30 pm Day 2 Pre-Conference Master Classes: i. Catherine Stephenson Designing Using Advanced Draping Techniques ii. Veronica Chin Focus on Felts: The Art Felt Hat Blocking 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch 3:30 pm Tour Bus returns to hotel 4:00 pm -7:00 pm Conference Registration 5:00 pm -7:00 pm Threads Challenge Garment Check-In 7:00 pm -9:30 pm Welcome Reception

6 6 Friday, October 18 7:00 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 8:30 am - 4:30 pm Core Conference 1-Day Classes: i. June Colburn New Directions in Screen Printing -Easy Surface Design for Clothing ii. Leslie Littell Patternmaking Using the Sloper Method iii. Luanne Mayorga Today s Marketing -Are You Feeling Overwhelmed? iv. Michelle Moenssen Unlimited Skirt Designs from One Basic Pattern v. Janet Pray Shirtmaking Magic 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 11:30 am Check-in & set up for Marketplace Vendors 11:45 am - 1:15 pm Luncheon with Keynote Speaker: Kenneth D. King 2:00 pm - 7:00 pm Vendor Marketplace 5:30 pm Models Check-in for Fashion Show 7:30 pm Fashion Show & Life Time Achievement Award 9:30 pm Champagne Reception for LAA honoree Kenneth King Saturday, October 19 7:00 am - 8:30 am Conference Registration MSDP Breakfast Chapter Representatives Breakfast 8:30 am -11:30 am Core Conference 3 Hour Classes: i. Debbie Bone-Harris Embellishing on the Edge ii. Luanne Mayorga Are You Right-Brained or Left-Brained Learner? iii. Abby Riba Color and Image 101 iv. Linda Stewart Garment & Textile Preservation v. Sarah Veblen Bodice Fitting: The 10 Most Common Fitting Issues 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm Core Conference 3 Hour Classes: i. Rae Cumbie A Confident Persona Leads to Improved Client Relations ii. June Colburn Putting on the Glitz -Hand Beaded Embellishment iii. Michelle Moenssen Jacket Fitting iv. Janet Pray Moebius Scarf v. Sarah Veblen The Art of the Dart

7 7 6:30 pm -9:30 pm Dinner Cruise on General Jackson Showboat Sunday, October 20 7:00 am - 9:30 am Conference Registration 7:30 am - 9:00 am Annual Meeting Breakfast 9:15 am - 12:15 pm Volunteer Project 12:15 pm - 1:15 pm One Hour Foundations Seminar 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm Core Conference 3 Hour Classes i. June Colburn Artistic Collage for Clothing & Decor -The Great Fabric Cutup ii. Rae Cumbie Repurposing & Restyling Garments for a Fresh New Look iii. Carol Kimball Teaching Your Patterns iv. Denise Severson Decorative Threads Serger Techniques v. Debbie Utberg Worth Every Penny 5:00 pm The Last Hurrah -Afternoon Tea Monday, October 21 & Tuesday, October 22 8:30 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 9:00 am - 4:30 pm Post Conference Master Classes: i. Sabine David Perfect Pants ii. Joyce Simmons-Murphy Adobe InDesign for the Dressmaker iii. Pamela Powell The Woman s Canvas Coat Front (Threads Article 3/13) iv. Sarah Veblen Fitting Fundamentals 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch

8 8 Information on Early Bird Pricing There is an Early Bird discount for ASDP members who register this year between July 1 and July 15, 2013, so sign up early! We suggest you print this brochure to review and make your choices. Classes have space limits and will be filled by a first registered policy. If the class you choose is already full, you will be placed in your next available choice, as noted on your registration form. Registration closes September 16th, 2013 at 12:00 pm CST and any class that has not reached its minimum registration numbers by September 10th is subject to cancellation by ASDP. All noted kit fees are payable directly to the instructor at the beginning of your class. Conference registration fees are different for members and non-members; if you qualify to be a member and would like to join the Association before you register for conference, you may apply online at and click on Become a Member. Conference registration for non-members will open August 1, 2013 at 10:00 am CST. You may pay via PayPal or by check made out to ASDP. You will find details on the registration form itself. All forms and payment must be received, or postmarked, by July 15 in order to qualify for the Early Bird discount. We will be accepting completed registration forms either electronically, via conference@sewingprofessionals.org or in the mail to: Helen Haughey 7 Southmoor Drive St Louis, MO 63105

9 9 Lifetime Achievement Award Winner & Keynote Speaker: KENNETH D. KING Kenneth D. King is a New York-based, haute couturier, who specializes in evening wear. Along with his private clientele, he has sold to boutiques across the country such as Maxfield in Los Angeles, Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco, and Ultimo in Chicago, San Francisco, and Dallas. His work has appeared in music videos, television commercials, and on the red carpet for the Oscars. Kenneth s work was exhibited in 2005 at the San Francisco Legion of Honor Museum; his work is also in the permanent collections of the De Young Museum in San Francisco, the L.A. County Museum of Art, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. You can view his work on his web site King has released a DVD series with Threads Magazine, called "Smart Fitting with Kenneth D. King. Currently he teaches classes as an adjunct professor in the Haute Couture program at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and was a Guest Professor for Haute Couture at Drexel University in Philadelphia in the spring of 2008.

10 10 Conference Schedule by the Day WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 16, :00-9:00 am Conference Registration 9:00-4:30 pm Day 1 Pre-Conference Master Classes: i. Catherine Stephenson Designing Using Advanced Draping Techniques Draping on a half scale dress form is a great way to quickly work out design ideas without using a lot of fabric. You can then interpret your ideas into a flat pattern or drape on a full scale dress form with a clearer idea of what you want. You can also use the half scale to easily communicate your designs for a custom client in 3-D so she can visually understand your ideas. This class is designed to teach you a variety of advanced draping techniques that will give you more tools for exploring a wider variety of design possibilities. Day one will be devoted to dart manipulations of non-traditional darted bodices, portrait neckline and wide neckline collars, twisted bodice and twisted skirt, asymmetric pleating and a bust wrap bodice and crumb catcher. Time will also be devoted to individual exploration and interpretation of some of the techniques. Day 2 morning session will be a design exploration of working on the bias á la Vionnet and the afternoon devoted to a structured Dior fit-and-flare jacket and a sculpted full skirt drape. The goal of this class is to teach you a broader range of draping techniques a give you the opportunity to explore your own design ideas and problem solving skills, leading to a more confident understanding of your abilities as an apparel designer. Prerequisite Skills: A working knowledge of basic draping skills including manipulation of fabric, moving darts & dart creation, princess seams, 2 types of flare creation, added fullness, ease and grainline orientation Kit Fee: $5.00 Catherine Stephenson Catherine has been teaching apparel design and sewing techniques for 20 years. She currently is on the faculty of the Art Institute of Portland since 1997 and owner of her own design and dressmaking business Catherine Stephenson Couture since Catherine is cofounder of The Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, served on the national board and as chair from She currently is Board Chair for The Master Sewing and Design Professional Certification Program. Catherine has a BS in Textiles and Clothing and a Masters in Education.

11 11 ii. Veronica Chin Focus on Felts: The Art of Felt Hat Blocking This is a two day class concentrating on blocking and finishing felt hats. Blocks will be provided or bring objects from home to create a unique, one of a kind chapeaux. Pre-Requisite Skills: Basic hand and machine sewing skills Kit Fee: None Veronica Chin Veronica is an educator and millinery designer who has developed millinery programs for numerous colleges and taught a wide spectrum of fashion-oriented subjects. She is interested in shaping new courses in the millinery and fashion illustration fields as well as developing accessory programs for college curriculums. 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch

12 12 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 17, :00 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 8:30 am Tour bus departs for: Country Music Hall of Fame Manuel s Studio Textile Fabrics 9:00 am -4:30 pm Day 2 Pre-Conference Master Classes: i. Catherine Stephenson Designing Using Advanced Draping Techniques ii. Veronica Chin Focus on Felts: The Art Felt Hat Blocking 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch 3:30 pm Tour Bus returns to hotel Tour Information You will not want to miss this tour! The sites to be visited include The Country Music Hall of Fame, which has on display a wonderful collection of stage garments. Manuel, Nashville s Rhinestone Rembrandt Manuel has had a long career of dressing the stars including Johnny Cash and creating Elvis signature gold lamé suit. We will have the rare treat of visiting his workroom. Several of his designs are among the garments on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame. Textile Fabrics, Tennessee s largest fashion fabric store I have yet to meet a sewer who doesn t like to visit a great fabric store! Textile Fabrics has an astounding selection of fabric from significant designers as well as the finest manufacturers. In addition, they carry all the things you will need to complete any imaginable project. If they don t have what you want, they will find it for you! 4:00 pm -7:00 pm Conference Registration 5:00 pm -7:00 pm Threads Challenge Garment Check-In 7:00 pm -9:30 pm Welcome Reception

13 13 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 18, :00 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 8:30 am - 11:30 am Core Conference 1-Day Classes: 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm 1-Day Classes Continued i. June Colburn New Directions in Screen Printing -Easy Surface Design for Clothing Explore ways to custom print motifs on fabric! Beginning with the basic how-to s of using modern silk screens (no wooden frame required), practice screening with instant-set Colorhue dye on various silk fabrics. You will be amazed at the simplicity and beauty of the results! Then, add another design element by creating larger freezer paper masks to create larger images such as fans, lozenges, vases and waves. Combine the masks with screened motifs to design truly exceptional fabric. Be inspired by samples in the trunk show. Bring your camera! Pre-Requisite Skills: None Kit Fee: $25.00 June Colburn June is an international educator and designer whose motto is Have sewing machine, will travel. A sewer since childhood, June first taught quilting in Europe in While living in Japan in the 1980 s, June developed a unique style using vintage kimono fabrics to design fashion and home accessories. Since returning to the U.S. in 1993, she now teaches and creates a line of timeless clothing and quilt patterns and silk screens featuring Asian influences. Students are delighted by June s depth of knowledge of color and design as well as the history of Asian textiles and the cultures that produce them. ii. Leslie Littell Patternmaking Using the Sloper Method This will be a hands-on class using scale slopers to demonstrate the techniques used to draft patterns. Participants will provide style examples for evaluation and use in the workshop. The class will discuss the probable pattern shapes and evaluate the best methods for reaching the finished design. Slash and Spread, Dart Manipulation and Rotation will be explored as participants create their own fashion pattern designs. Finally, the process for enlarging and grading patterns will be demonstrated. No previous patternmaking experience required but a solid understanding of grainline theory and garment fit will be helpful.

14 14 Pre-Requisite Skills: Advanced sewing and fitting experience. Ability to use a ruler. Understanding of basic geometry and grainline theory Kit Fee: $2.00 Leslie Littell Leslie has spanned the fashion and theatre worlds with over 30 years of design and technical experience since receiving her Bachelor of Science in Fashion from the University of Cincinnati s prestigious college of Design, Architecture, Art & Planning. A subsequent MA from Rutgers University in American History allowed her to enter the world of academia, again teaching in both Fashion and Theatre programs. Her design studio, - Ashbridge Costumes has served clients in reenactment and theatre, as well as for pattern design and wedding attire. She is currently working on a line of historically based dress and gown patterns. iii. Luanne Mayorga Today s Marketing -Are You Feeling Overwhelmed? Social Media, Pinterest, FourSquare, Tumblr marketing can become overwhelming quickly with all of the various avenues you can choose from. Don t become a me too and jump on all of the social media sites unless it fits your strategy. Learn how to evaluate what is the best platform for you and how to build your exposure. Understand why your website should be the focal point of all of your marketing efforts. If you don t have a marketing plan, then this class will help you develop one! Pre-Requisite Skills: Focus is on those currently in business or thinking of starting one Kit Fee: None Luanne Mayorga Luanne Mayorga is Manager of the Illinois International Trade Center at the College of DuPage. She provides assistance to small and medium sized businesses in the collar counties outside of Chicago that are interested in exporting their products and/or services to overseas markets. She has been involved with the Center for Entrepreneurship for the past seven years and has advised over 425 businesses with over 4,800 hours of consulting hours. Her clients have achieved increased domestic sales of $13.5 million, export sales of $46 million, and funding of $1.175 million. In addition to international trade, her background has included a heavy focus on the retail industry, marketing, consumer behavior, social media and e-commerce. Besides her duties in the Center for Entrepreneurship, Luanne teaches in both the business and fashion disciplines at College of DuPage. Some of the courses she has taught include: international business, entrepreneurship, bridal couture, flat pattern and draping. Luanne has Master s of Business Administration degree with a concentration in Marketing and International Business from Benedictine University. She holds a Bachelor s degree in both Fashion Design and Fashion Merchandising from Dominican University, with a minor in Business.

15 15 iv. Michelle Moenssen Unlimited Skirt Designs from One Basic Pattern A basic great-fitting skirt sloper (with center back vent or slit) can easily be used to create many designs. Seams can be added and manipulated, darts shifted, vents added and moved to other seams, box pleated or circular ruffle piece can be added to the skirt bottom- the varieties are endless! Pre-Requisite Skills: Basic knowledge of garment construction Kit Fee: $10.00 Michelle Moenssen Michelle owns Nonpareil Studio in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where she tailors and alters ready-made garments, designs and constructs custom clothing, and teaches sewing, dyeing and felting. She was an Elizabethan costume designer for The Detroit Institute of Arts, and a Renaissance costume designer for The Madame Cadillac Theater of Detroit. She owned Metropolitan Tailoring in Birmingham, Michigan for 10 years, which was voted Best Tailor in metro Detroit by the readers of 2 local lifestyle magazines in June While studying engineering in college, she decided to take a few art classes- drawing and garment construction. Michelle never went back to engineering and now considers herself to be a garment engineer. v. Janet Pray Shirtmaking Magic The industrial sewing techniques you will learn in this class include fine topstitching, a lined back yoke without hand stitching, a two-piece collar, and sleeves and cuffs, all without pins or basting. That's right! No pins! No basting! And to top it off, a guarantee that it will be the best looking shirt you have ever made! Bonus: learn 5 tips on the best interfacing techniques. Pre-Requisite Skills: None Kit Fee: $35.00 Janet Pray Janet has an educational background in business and fine art. Self employed since 1981 as a Fiber Artist, Fiber Arts teacher and Sewing Instructor, Ms. Pray began her career in the sewing industry creating a unique line of artistic women s clothing. Her specialties were coats and scarves sold at fine art fairs and boutiques. While creating her clothing line she found that dyeing the fabrics became a passion and added tremendous opportunities for creativity. Janet soon began teaching dyeing and discharge techniques and created the video, Bleach or Dye. She also taught industrial sewing techniques developed by her aunt, Margaret Islander. Janet s next venture was developing the largest independent sewing expo in the United States, The American Sewing Expo held annually in Novi, Michigan. Soon after that she took over the operations of the Islander Sewing Systems Company. As the owner of this company Janet published several of her most popular patterns from her clothing line and went on to design many more garment patterns all with industrial sewing techniques included in the pattern guides. Ms. Pray wrote the book, Islander Sewing Systems I. and co-authored the popular DVD, Easy Zippers. Janet served as the Executive Director of the National Sewing Council for 3 years. In 2012 she was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals.

16 16 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 11:30 am Check-in & set up for Marketplace Vendors 11:45 am - 1:15 pm Luncheon with Keynote Speaker: Kenneth D. King 2:00 pm - 7:00 pm Vendor Marketplace 5:30 pm Models Check-in for Fashion Show 7:30 pm Fashion Show & Life Time Achievement Award 9:30 pm Champagne Reception for LAA honoree Kenneth King

17 17 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 19, :00 am - 8:30 am Conference Registration MSDP Breakfast Chapter Representatives Breakfast 8:30 am -11:30 am Core Conference 3 Hour Classes: i. Debbie Bone-Harris Embellishing on the Edge -Vintage Flatwork Ribbonry In this hands-on techniques class, we will be creating flatwork trims that can be applied to your custom created clothing, bridal wear, millinery, home interior projects or any other unique ideas your imagination can conjure up. We will be using French wired and bias cut silk ribbon to create our pleated, ruched, and folded flatwork trims. We ll be manipulating the ribbon in various ways using hand stitching to create one-of-kind embellishments to enhance your creative pieces. Time-tested techniques will be taught that have been gleaned from the golden era of vintage ribbon work. What a perfect class to complement the pre-conference Master Class with Veronica Chin and the Art of Felt Hat Blocking, or simply if you want to expand your stitching horizons and knowledge of ribbon work skills. Pre-Requisite Skills: No previous ribbon work experience is required just a desire to create and produce beautiful forms of ribbon flatwork Kit Fee: $15.00 Debbie Bone-Harris Debbie has an extensive background in sewing and design including a Master s degree from Washington State University in Clothing and Textile Design. She is an accomplished instructor and wearable art designer, with additional credentials from City and Guilds of London in free-motion embroidery, Jenny Haskins certified instructor, certified Brazilian Embroidery instructor and former Stretch and Sew instructor. She has been a Clothing and Textile Advisor with WSU since 1996, teaching at-risk youth sewing techniques, sewing science principles, and other creative life skill applications. She has had two of her designs selected that debuted in the Houston International Bernina Fashion Show, as well as numerous national awards at juried art shows for her wearable art.

18 18 ii. Luanne Mayorga Are You Right-Brained or Left-Brained Learner? Most individuals who sew or design are a right-brained learners which makes numbers one of the least favorite business activities. This class breaks down financials into an easy-to-understand way for creative people to understand. Learn about the relevancy of various statements including Cash Flow, Profit & Loss Statements, Balance Sheets and Overhead Costs. Understand how this impacts your pricing. Even if you have an accountant, this type of information can make or break your business. You may not enjoy numbers, but if you are in business you need to understand them. Pre-Requisite Skills: None This class is geared towards those who are looking at gaining a stronger competency with financials Student Supplies: None Kit Fee: None Luanne Mayorga Luanne Mayorga is Manager of the Illinois International Trade Center at the College of DuPage. She provides assistance to small and medium sized businesses in the collar counties outside of Chicago that are interested in exporting their products and/or services to overseas markets. She has been involved with the Center for Entrepreneurship for the past seven years and has advised over 425 businesses with over 4,800 hours of consulting hours. Her clients have achieved increased domestic sales of $13.5 million, export sales of $46 million, and funding of $1.175 million. In addition to international trade, her background has included a heavy focus on the retail industry, marketing, consumer behavior, social media and e-commerce. Besides her duties in the Center for Entrepreneurship, Luanne teaches in both the business and fashion disciplines at College of DuPage. Some of the courses she has taught include: international business, entrepreneurship, bridal couture, flat pattern and draping. Luanne has Master s of Business Administration degree with a concentration in Marketing and International Business from Benedictine University. She holds a Bachelor s degree in both Fashion Design and Fashion Merchandising from Dominican University, with a minor in Business. iii. Abby Riba Color and Image 101 Following the concept that time is money, this class will teach you how to work efficiently with a client during the consultation process to assist her in making good choices both in the color of the garment and style details. (This class does not intend to make the student a color analyst or an image consultant, but rather to use some of the concepts in working quickly with our clients.) After a discussion of color theory in reference to clothing, we will work in pairs and under direction, have a mock consultation, with each student learning to make appropriate color choices for the partner's garment. Starting with the basic good colors we will expand to include more complementary colors and prints.

19 19 At the end of this segment students should be able to spend no more than about 10 minutes in the consultation process to help their client choose flattering colors. The second part of the class, as time permits, will involve analyzing the client s body to determine variations from today's standards. Many clients see flaws that are not there and miss issues that might be important. Again working in pairs we will begin to seeing some of these variations in one another and apply the concepts presented to balance and enhance the client s figure. Pre-Requisite Skills: None Kit Fee: None Abby Riba Abby began sewing during high school. Upon moving to Madison, Wisconsin, Abby changed direction and became a custom clothier. Moving to Clearwater, Florida in 1982 then necessitated starting over in business. Deciding to focus part-time on custom clothing, Abby chose to work outside the home parttime as a tailor in a local department store. In the early 1990 s she again chose to focus solely on custom clothing. Although focusing primarily on bridal and evening wear, Abby has fit and custom sewn everything from a tuxedo to a swimsuit. The wide range of sewing experiences and people she has sewn for gives her the ability to work with those customers who are uniquely sized and to make garments that fit and truly flatter. Abby also spent a number of years studying with colour and image professionals and developed shortcut methods for these services in a the consultation setting for those not willing to specifically search out and use colour and image professionals.abby is a charter member of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers/Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. She has attended all of the annual national conferences, and over the years, Abby has served a number of board positions in the organization including a term as the National President. Abby is also the founder, president, and chief creative officer of Kandi Corp which sells internationally to the sewing and craft markets but focusing primarily on bridal and evening wear. iv Linda Stewart Garment & Textile Preservation The class is geared towards the person who has a garment that they would like to safely store for future generations, such as a wedding gown or a christening gown. Both of these garments are precious to the owner and each has the potential of being a family heirloom and should be properly cleaned and stored. The class deals with new garments and how to protect them from the elements that cause destruction, namely heat, moisture, light, chemicals and vermin. Also included are the following: proper cleaning (or not cleaning if there is danger to the fabric) storage boxes that are readily available to the public that contain acid free materials how to fold the garment for packing storage options other than boxes where to store how to avoid drawing insects

20 20 Pre-Requisite Skills: Student Supplies: None None Kit Fee: None Linda Stewart Linda Stewart established her series Alterations for Professionals to train Alterations Specialists in Her classes draw students from across the US and Canada. Linda has two books on CD, Alterations for Professionals and Bridal & Formal Wear. In July Linda added a third book, Alterations for the Home Sewer. Linda is an award winning designer and was a 2006 & 2007 Bernina Fashion Designer. She is a member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals and served on their Board of Directors in various positions for 9 years. She is also a member of the American Sewing Guild, and Linda Helped to launch the ASDP Master Sewing and Design Professionals Certification Program which was launched in October of 2008 and is herself MSDP Certified. v. Sarah Veblen Bodice Fitting: The 10 Most Common Fitting Issues Through the years of fitting hundreds of students and clients, fitting expert Sarah Veblen has identified ten fitting issues that occur on a regular basis when fitting a bodice. While some fitting issues are more prevalent on certain body types, these ten issues are commonly found on all figures. Whether you re fitting a blouse, t-shirt, tank top, dress, softy structured jacket, or traditionally tailored jacket, anticipating these fitting issues will speed up the fitting process and make your fitting more effective. In addition to identifying the issues, Sarah will also discuss the typical changes made to solve the problem. Pre-Requisite Skills: Anyone who has at least beginner level sewing experience and wants to learn about bodice fitting or wants to enhance the fitting skills they already have Kit Fee: None Sarah Veblen Sarah is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah has more than twenty Threads magazine articles and teaches from her studio in Maryland, online at PatternReview.com, and as a guest lecturer across the country. Her years of experience in fitting led to her book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting (Creative Publishing International, :30 am Morning Beverage Break 11:30 am - 1:30pm Lunch

21 21 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm Core Conference 3 Hour Classes: i.rae Cumbie A Confident Persona Leads to Improved Client Relations As sewing professionals, we have low visibility and a constant challenge to present a professional face to our clients while remaining true to ourselves. Spend some time exploring steps you can take to increase your community exposure and strengthen your professional persona. Tailor your business to capitalize on your best personal attributes. A strong and confident self image will lead to significantly improved client interactions and professional satisfaction. Pre-Requisite Skills: Interest in the business of sewing Student Supplies: None Kit Fee: None Rae Cumbie Best known in Baltimore for her special occasion gowns, Rae has been creating custom clothing professionally for over 30 years. Over fifteen years ago, she began creating wearable art jackets, perfecting the fit on her clients and students. Her line of Fit For Art Patterns offer versatility and fit for sewers, fiber artists and quilters. She is an active sewing educator, immediate past president of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals and contributor to Sew News and Threads magazines. ii. June Colburn Putting on the Glitz -Hand Beaded Embellishment Beads embellish everything from tutus to t-shirts, pillows to purses, bridal gowns to belly dance scarves. Learn the secrets to sewing on beads that will never come off! Beads, thread, technique and design all contribute to a lovely, lasting expression of women s love for all things bright and shiny. Learn to express your style in this powerful but tiny medium. This class includes a trunk show of samples and finished garments -a feast for the eyes! Pre-Requisite Skills: Some hand sewing experience Kit Fee: $20 June Colburn June is an international educator and designer whose motto is Have sewing machine, will travel. A sewer since childhood, June first taught quilting in Europe in While living in Japan in the 1980 s, June developed a unique style using vintage kimono fabrics to design fashion and home accessories. Since returning to the U.S. in 1993, she now teaches and creates a line of timeless clothing and quilt patterns and silk screens featuring Asian influences. Students are delighted by June s depth of knowledge of color and design as well as the history of Asian textiles and the cultures that produce them.

22 22 iii. Michelle Moenssen Jacket Fitting How should a jacket fit the body in order to be considered well-fitting? Where should the outside of the shoulder end? Does the armseye never seem to be in the correct place? Are there diagonal wrinkles under the shoulder in front or back? Learn how to solve the most common fitting issues in tailored jackets. Pre-Requisite Skills: Must have some experience working with tailored ready-to-wear, or have made custom jackets. Intermediate to advanced sewing skills Kit Fee: $10 Michelle Moenssen Michelle owns Nonpareil Studio in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where she tailors and alters ready-made garments, designs and constructs custom clothing, and teaches sewing, dyeing and felting. She was an Elizabethan costume designer for The Detroit Institute of Arts, and a Renaissance costume designer for The Madame Cadillac Theater of Detroit. She owned Metropolitan Tailoring in Birmingham, Michigan for 10 years, which was voted Best Tailor in metro Detroit by the readers of 2 local lifestyle magazines in June While studying engineering in college, she decided to take a few art classes- drawing and garment construction. Michelle never went back to engineering and now considers herself to be a garment engineer. iv. Janet Pray Moebius Scarf The Moebius scarf is the hot new fashion accessory. Be on top of the trends, have fun and discover some new tricks. Learn how best to handle the fabric while sewing without pins, why the correct needle and thread make a difference and much more. Janet will also share many tips on today s sewing techniques and answer your sewing questions. Kit will have various color choices. Pre-Requisite Skills: None Kit Fee: None Janet Pray Janet has an educational background in business and fine art. Self employed since 1981 as a Fiber Artist, Fiber Arts teacher and Sewing Instructor, Ms. Pray began her career in the sewing industry creating a unique line of artistic women s clothing. Her specialties were coats and scarves sold at fine art fairs and boutiques. While creating her clothing line she found that dyeing the fabrics became a passion and added tremendous opportunities for creativity. Janet soon began teaching dyeing and discharge techniques and created the video, Bleach or Dye. She also taught industrial sewing techniques developed by her aunt, Margaret Islander. Janet s next venture was developing the largest independent sewing expo in the United States, The American Sewing Expo held annually in Novi, Michigan. Soon after that she took over the operations of the Islander Sewing Systems Company. As the owner of this company Janet published several of her most popular patterns from her clothing line and went on to design many more garment patterns all with industrial sewing techniques included in the pattern guides.

23 23 Ms. Pray wrote the book, Islander Sewing Systems I. and co-authored the popular DVD, Easy Zippers. Janet served as the Executive Director of the National Sewing Council for 3 years. In 2012 she was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. v. Sarah Veblen The Art of the Dart As sewers, most of us are accustomed to seeing darts in garments they re in skirts or pants to fit the waist, or can be used in a bodice to fit the bust. But once you understand the nuances of what a dart does and what you can make it achieve, you ll never take darts for granted again. Join fitting expert Sarah Veblen and learn both the basics and the intricacies of darts, from the anatomy and function of a dart to utilizing darts when fitting in order to flatter and proportion the figure. Pre-Requisite Skills: Anyone with an interest in sewing, pattern work, and fitting, with at least beginner level sewing experience. Less experienced sewers will gain a basic understanding of darts; more experienced sewers nuanced information about darts. Kit Fee: None Sarah Veblen Sarah is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah has more than twenty Threads magazine articles and teaches from her studio in Maryland, online at PatternReview.com, and as a guest lecturer across the country. Her years of experience in fitting led to her book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting (Creative Publishing International, 2012) 6:00 pm Board bus for General Jackson Showboat Dinner Cruise 9:45 PM Return to Hotel

24 24 SUNDAY OCTOBER 20, :00 am - 9:30 am Conference Registration 7:30 am - 9:00 am Annual Meeting Breakfast 9:15 am - 12:15 pm Volunteer Project 12:15 pm - 1:15 pm One Hour Foundations Seminar 1:30 pm - 4:30 pm Core Conference 3 Hour Classes: i. June Colburn Artistic Collage for Clothing & Decor -The Great Fabric Cut Up Stretch your creative mind and spirit as you learn a new way to look at, cut up, and layer fabric! Develop a design by combining eight or more cotton prints and batiks the goal is to make them look like one piece of fabric. Try fussy cutting edges, blending colors and motifs, making your 18 x22 collage a masterpiece, which can be framed, finished as a tote bag, pillow top or included in a wearable art project. The trunk show of fabric choices, work-in-progress and finished garments is worth the price of admission! Pre-Requisite Skills: None Kit Fee: $15.00 June Colburn June is an international educator and designer whose motto is Have sewing machine, will travel. A sewer since childhood, June first taught quilting in Europe in While living in Japan in the 1980 s, June developed a unique style using vintage kimono fabrics to design fashion and home accessories. Since returning to the U.S. in 1993, she now teaches and creates a line of timeless clothing and quilt patterns and silk screens featuring Asian influences. Students are delighted by June s depth of knowledge of color and design as well as the history of Asian textiles and the cultures that produce them.

25 25 ii. Rae Cumbie Repurposing & Restyling Garments for a Fresh New Look In keeping with the current green living trend consider repurposing old garments. In addition to wedding gown restyling think about the outdated treasures in your own closet. It s fashionable and fun! Restyling projects are successful if you plan ahead and assess carefully. Learn to test the fabric, calculate how much fabric you have available, deconstruct the old garment, choose a new style, add additional fabrics and complete the project. Bring future projects with you to begin assessing, measuring and sketching ideas. Pre-Requisite Skills: Some experience working as a Sewing Professional will make this class seem more worthwhile. Kit Fee: None Rae Cumbie Best known in Baltimore for her special occasion gowns, Rae has been creating custom clothing professionally for over 30 years. Over fifteen years ago, she began creating wearable art jackets, perfecting the fit on her clients and students. Her line of Fit For Art Patterns offer versatility and fit for sewers, fiber artists and quilters. She is an active sewing educator, immediate past president of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals and contributor to Sew News and Threads magazines. iii. Carol Kimball Teaching Your Patterns This class is for those who want to prepare, teach and/or sell patterns they have developed. This class covers how to make a professional pattern from a rough copy (includes grading), publish it (self or commercially), how to figure costs, how to find class venues, the psychology of promoting and teaching, and legal aspects (copyright, patent). Pre-Requisite Skills: Students do NOT need to have created a pattern. They are welcome to bring them, if they have. Student Supplies: None Kit Fee: None Carol Kimball Carol Kimball has been a full-time professional artist for over thirty years, much of it in clothing design and pattern making/construction, from bridal to commercial lines to medical prostheses. She has built historical recreations of costumes for several museums, created life-sized soft sculpture ventriloquist dummies, illustrated a number of books, and taught Fashion Sketching and Theatrical Costuming, among other classes. In her copious spare time, she s usually creating knitting patterns.

26 26 iv. Denise Severson Decorative Threads Serger Techniques Learn to utilize decorative threads and techniques, as used on the sample wearable art jacket. experiment with techniques: chain stitched with 40-weight variegated boucle braid sock yarn braid toggle buttons faux piping color block piecing We will Pre-Requisite Skills: The student should be familiar enough with their serger to easily switch it from standard serging to using the chain stitch. Kit Fee: None Denise Severson Denise Severson began sewing when she was five, restyling her Barbie doll dresses, which is a good way to learn extreme fitting. She continued sewing and graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison with a bachelor s degree in Home Economics, with an emphasis in Textiles and Clothing. She has placed as a finalist in the Threads Challenge in 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2011, and 2012, had 3 finalist entries in the 2012 Alliance of Independent Pattern Companies Midnight Magic Challenge, and has also juried into The Wisconsin Quilt Expo 2006 and She has also been published in Threads Magazine. Her business is primarily alterations, but she also does some home dec, machine embroidery and custom work. In addition, she has taught clothing construction for Rock County 4-H youth for 17 years. v. Debbie Utberg Worth Every Penny This class s content and exercises are based on Debbie s personal experiences, the book Worth every penny: Build a business that thrills your customers and still charge what you re worth as well as other resource materials. This class is an opportunity to creatively work ON your business rather than IN your business. Questions answered as part of this class include: Does your business depend on high volume or developing relationships?, What is Brand and is it important to your business?, What is your brand?, How you develop your brand?, What is the High-Touch experience and how do you create it? Furthermore, we will discuss pricing for quality and the 80/20 principal and how it relates to our clients. do Pre-Requisite Skills: Student Supplies: None A list will be sent to class attendees Kit Fee: $5

27 27 Debbie Utberg Debbie s professional sewing career began in 1977 when she was asked to sew a wedding gown and discovered the value of her sewing skills to others. For many years, her business was an intermittent, part-time entity. In 2005, she moved her business out of her home and into a commercial location. Including her move out of her home, Debbie has relocated four times. Each time her clients followed her. 5:00 pm The Last Hurrah -Afternoon Tea

28 27 MONDAY OCTOBER 21, 2013 & TUESDAY OCTOBER 22, :30 am - 9:00 am Conference Registration 9:00 am - 4:30 pm Post Conference Master Classes: 10:30 am Morning Beverage Break 12:00 pm - 1:30 pm Lunch i. Sabine David Perfect Pants Featuring the principles of the renowned M. Mueller & Sohn patternmaking system. Learn pants drafting from body measurements, use of basic block and a sloper. Compare balance measurements and refine the fit of your basic pattern for different figure proportions and postures. Learn about wearing ease, adding seam and hem allowances and the incorporations of pattern symbols and labels. Add design elements and other garment components such as pockets and linings. The gained knowledge can be applied in a business, for the master certification and for personal sewing. Pre-Requisite Skills: Some sewing experience required. Kit Fee: None Sabine David Sabine David is the owner and founder of Suncoast Custom, a company specializing in computer-aided patternmaking and design services. Sabine studied design at the University of Applied Science in Hamburg, Germany and earned a BA in Clothing Technology. She is also a trained dressmaker and instructor. She was a member of the Examination Board of the Chamber of the Crafts in Hamburg, Germany and was responsible for attending to the students during the examination stage. Being in the apparel industry for over 20 years, she has extensive industry experience in design, patternmaking, grading and production. Sabine David has run a CAD patternmaking service for a variety of clients for more than fifteen years. She has shared her knowledge since 1995 in the RUNDSCHAU (Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Techniques) in countless expert articles about patternmaking. Sabine relocated her business in 2005 from Germany to British Columbia, Canada where she provides services to clients in person and over the internet. In cooperation with the German publisher she has also written and translated several instructional books for patternmakers. To share her knowledge she taught patternmaking at the Academy of Fashion Design and the University of Applied Sciences in Hamburg, Germany and worked as a freelance instructor at the Vancouver Island University, Canada. In addition she has taught pattern drafting workshops at different schools in the US. She just relocated to Victoria, BC, Canada where she has joined the Pacific Design Academy as a part-time instructor in 2013 to expand her love for teaching pattern drafting, design and fitting

29 28 ii. Joyce Simmons-Murphy Adobe InDesign for the Dressmaker In today s visual world, words alone no longer suffice. This class will show you how to use Adobe InDesign software to attractively combine pictures and words on a page; useful for creating teaching handouts, advertising copy or to explain a thought or idea to clients, students or peers. Come to class with a one-page project to play with in class and your computer to make it happen. The topic of image resolution and other aspects of preparing pictures for printed copy (or computer viewing) using Adobe Photoshop Elements will also be covered. Pre-Requisite Skills: This is for the skilled dressmaker with little to no graphic arts experience and beginning to intermediate computer skills with a desire to better communicate with clients, students and peers through pictures and words. Kit Fee: None Joyce Simons Murphy Joyce Simons Murphy (JSM) has degrees in apparel design and education plus 20 years of experience running a tailor shop, altering clothes, constructing garments and selling men's madeto-measure suits. As owner of JSM Tailors, Joyce saw a need for new tools to make tailoring easier. In response to this need, Joyce developed the JSM Hourly Rate Calculator ; the Pricing Alterations Made Easier system ; and the JSM Pants for Women system. As owner of JSM Tailoring Tools, Joyce writes for Threads magazine, trains sewing enthusiasts everywhere in the use of her professional tailoring tools and continues to develop new tools designed to save fitting time, time making and adjusting patterns and time spent on business tasks thus giving more time to design and construct custom clothing. iii. Pamela Powell The Woman s Canvas Coat Front (Threads Article 3/13) The canvas coat front is the core structure of a coat; it is from this canvas foundation that you get the beautiful sculptured silhouette. Pad stitching is used to softly sculpt the canvas fronts (made out of hair canvas or Hymo) in both the chest area, from shoulder to bust line that extends into the lapels. Softer canvassing is used in women s tailoring as it works more in harmony with the female figure. It is this softly padded foundation structure that ensures that for life of the garment it will hold its shape. The class will be making the coat front that I used in this article, but will also include the pockets, pocket flaps and bound buttonholes Pre-Requisite Skills: Medium to advanced sewing skills Kit Fee: $35

30 29 Pamela Powell Pamela s background in fashion is based in Europe and Australia and America. She has worked in high-end couture workrooms on garments for high profile and celebrity clients. She has a client base in bridal, special occasion and evening wear. Pamela has 10 years of experience working as an instructor for numerous Fashion Design Degree Programs, Community Colleges and has worked as an advisor for Graduate Program Students. She wrote a college textbook on tailoring titled Tailored Fashion Design for Fairchild Books 2010 and this was followed by an article The woman s canvas coat front for Threads magazine, iv. Sarah Veblen Fitting Fundamentals Everyone can learn to fit. Even though the process of fitting might seem perplexing and maybe even mysterious, Sarah will make it easy to understand. The key is having a framework to fit within, and Sarah will explain how to establish a fitting axis so that you always have fixed reference lines to use as guides. In this two day master class Sarah will give you a strong conceptual understanding of fitting.. By means of demonstration on a dress form and class participants, she will show you how to read the fabric of a fitting muslin, how to recognize drag lines and folds, how to manipulate the fabric to eliminate fitting issues, where to start a fitting session, how to move through the fitting process, when to end a particular fitting session, and how to transfer the fitting changes to the pattern. You will also get hands-on practice, which is a different experience than watching someone else fit a garment. After Sarah demonstrates fitting a skirt, class participants will pair off and fit each other, with Sarah there to guide you along the way. Next we will turn our attention to bodices, first with Sarah demonstrating, then with participants fitting each other. One of the bonuses of fitting each other in a group setting is that interesting fitting problems invariably arise, and Sarah will help you track them down and solve them. All participants will be sent thorough information on how to prepare their fitting muslins for the class. Pre-Requisite Skills: Anyone who would like to learn fitting basics or who would like to enhance fitting skills they already have. Kit Fee: None Sarah Veblen Sarah is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah has more than twenty Threads magazine articles and teaches from her studio in Maryland, online at PatternReview.com, and as a guest lecturer across the country. Her years of experience in fitting led to her book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting (Creative Publishing International, 2012)

31 30 Additional Information Welcome Reception This will be held Thursday evening from 7:00 pm 9:00 pm. It is a time for friends to get reacquainted and for new friends to meet. The board members will also be present giving members the opportunity to ask questions regarding individual board positions as well as how the board works in general. Heavy Hors D oeuvres and a cash bar will be available. Vendor Market - Atrium Cafe We will have a vendor market on Friday, October 18 from 2:00pm until 7:00pm. Fellow association members as well as local (& some not so local) sewing-related businesses will be on hand to show you their beautiful wares. Kenneth D. King will be autographing his books at the vendor market Please support these vendors who go to much effort to bring their products to conference We have scheduled the market this year so that you may visit during your (short) afternoon tea at the end of the afternoon classes during the dinner hour up until our Fashion Show begins Fashion Show and Member Showcase - Atrium Friday evening we will have our member showcase, fashion show, and Threads Challenge presentation. The runway show will start at 7:30 pm with the challenge winners being announced at the end of the show. Applications for the member showcase & runway show are available on the website at Champagne Reception -Hospitality Suite To be held Friday evening following the Fashion Show We will be presenting Kenneth D. King with our Lifetime Achievement Award during the Fashion Show. Come help us celebrate Kenneth s accomplishments. Light Hors D oeuvres and a cash bar will be supplied. Annual Banquet We have a treat in store this year with a dinner cruise on The General Jackson Showboat. We will board the boat and be served dinner while we cruise up the Cumberland River to see the Nashville City lights. On the return cruise, we will enjoy a musical stage show in the two-story Victorian Theater aboard one of the largest showboats in the country.

32 31 Conference Location: The Inn At Opryland 2401 Music Valley Drive Nashville, TN Phone # ; Fax # Reservations can be made using the website created just for us A room rate of $109 per night has been negotiated. Area Transportation: Take advantage of Nashville s central location and drive to conference. Hotel parking is complimentary Nashville International Airport is 8 miles from the hotel and there is a shuttle service directly to the hotel. Purchase your tickets at the Gaylord Opryland desk in the baggage claim area. $30 0ne Way, $40 Round Trip Shuttle to Downtown: 1 day pass $20; 3 day pass $30; 1 evening pass $15 Hotel Amenities: Complimentary on-site parking All public areas non-smoking Car rentals available at Opryland Hotel Complimentary shuttle to Opryland Hotel, Coffee & tea maker in-room Mobility accessible rooms Room service available 11:00 am to 10:00 pm Atrium Heated Pool & Whirlpool 24 -hour Fitness Center Vending machines Wi-Fi available In-House Restaurant: Opry Backstage Grill (southern cuisine) is open for lunch and dinner In-House Cafe: Atrium Cafe is open for breakfast until 11:00 am A listing of local restaurants will be available at Conference Registration Church Information available on site Weather in Nashville in Mid October: Day time temps in the low 70 s generally, with night time temps cooler in the high 40 s. What To Wear: Celebrate our theme and don your best country attire! Business casual for day events. Evening events give us the opportunity to dress up a bit more. And of course we love to be inspired by each others latest designs (like we have time to sew for ourselves).

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