Five. October 14-20, 2015 Crowne Plaza Downtown Northstar Minneapolis, Minnesota

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1 October 14-20, 2015 Crowne Plaza Downtown Northstar Minneapolis, Minnesota 1

2 Join Us for The Fine Art of Sewing and Design! This year s conference theme reflects both the Threads magazine Inspired by Art challenge, and our host city s reputation as a center for fine arts in the U.S. be it painting, dance, music or theater. We are all artists at our chosen craft of sewing and design, and my wish is that this year s conference will educate and inspire you to make this your best year ever! We have included both pre- and post-conference 2-day master classes in a variety of subjects, as well as full and half day classes during the core conference, Friday through Sunday. We ve added two extra full day classes on Saturday, because of the requests for more in-depth sessions. We are also offering a two-day master class on Friday and Saturday this year, which can be split into two separate one-day classes, so you can take just what you need in the subject! There s something for everyone, whether you re an intern or a veteran member. Don t miss all the excitement of the social events from the Welcome Reception to the Last Hurrah Tea, and everything in between, including the Saturday night banquet honoring our Lifetime Achievement Award Recipient and renowned industry leader Sandra Betzina. We know you work hard all year and look forward to the learning and networking opportunities that conference can provide. It s an investment in yourself that will pay dividends far beyond the end of October. Your board members have worked hard to bring you those opportunities, and along with talented instructors will be there to help you increase your knowledge, expand your skills, and continue to grow your business every step of the way. Oh, and we plan to help you have a great time as well! Our host city is beautiful with lots to do, the hotel staff is friendly and attentive, and all your friends (and maybe some you haven t met yet!) will be there. So what are you waiting for? See you in Minneapolis! Karen Gay VP of Conference Planning Association of Sewing and Design Professionals Questions about conference? me at conference@sewingprofessionals.org 2

3 CONFERENCE AT A GLANCE Tuesday, October 13, pm Conference Registration Wednesday, October 14, :45am 9am-4:30pm Conference Registration Day 1- Pre-Conference Master Classes 1. Veronica Chin Beautiful Bridal Headwear 2. Robert Haven Introduction to Tambour Beading 3. Diane Tuckman The Art of Painting on Silk 4. Sue Widawski Custom Tailored Jacket 10:30am 12-1:30pm 7-8pm Morning Break Lunch Break Conference Registration Thursday, October 15, :45am Conference Registration 8:30am Tour group meets in lobby for departure to Guthrie Theater Costume Shop Textile Center Treadle Yard Goods Minnesota History Center SR Harris 9am-4:30pm Day 2- Pre-Conference Master Classes 1. Veronica Chin Beautiful Bridal Headwear 2. Robert Haven Introduction to Tambour Beading 3. Diane Tuckman The Art of Painting on Silk 4. Sue Widawski Custom Tailored Jacket 3

4 10:30am 12 1:30pm 5pm 5 6:45pm 7 9:30pm Morning Break Lunch Tour Bus Returns to Hotel Conference Registration Garment Check-In for Threads Challenge and/or Fashion Show Welcome Reception Friday, October 16, :30 8:15 am Conference Registration 8:30am 4:30pm 10am 11:45am-1:15pm 5:30pm 7:30pm Core Conference 1 Day Classes 1. Judith Baer Fashion Illustrating 2. Brenda Breitenmoser Those Pesky Bridal Alterations 3. Helen Haughey Design Joyce Murphy Everyday Tailoring with Style (Day 1) 5. Pamela Powell Couture Foundation Morning Break Keynote Luncheon Models Check-In for Fashion Show Saturday, October 17, :30-8:15am 7:30-8:25am 8:30am-4:30pm 8:30-11:30am Fashion Show and Threads Challenge Awards Conference Registration MSDP/MAS Breakfast Core Conference Full Day Classes 1. Joyce Murphy Everyday Tailoring with Style (Day 2) 2. Pamela Powell Hand-worked Embellishments for Lingerie Core Conference 3 Hour Classes 1. Rae Cumbie Identifying Fitting Personalities 2. Barbie McCormick The Virtues of Underlining 3. Sarah Veblen Innovative Set-In Sleeves 4

5 10am 11:45am-1:15pm 11:45am-1:15pm 1:30-4:30pm 2-6:30pm 7:30pm Morning Break Lunch Break Chapter Relations Luncheon Core Conference 3 Hour Classes 1. Rae Cumbie Slow Pants-Fitting One Step at a Time 2. Helen Haughey Secrets to Sewing a Classic Sheath Dress 3. Sarah Veblen Tapping Into Your Creativity Vendor Marketplace Banquet with LAA and Champagne Toast Sunday, October 18, :30am 7am 7:30am 9:30am-12:30pm 12:30-1:30pm 1:30-4:30pm 4:45pm Conference Registration Breakfast ASDP Annual Meeting (continuation of Breakfast) Core Conference 3 Hour Classes Lunch Break 1. Helen Haughey Sew a Detachable Fur Collar 2. Noreen Hoenig Sew So Psychology 3. Barbie McCormick Proper Pressing Techniques 4. Sarah Veblen Become an Effective Teacher Core Conference 3 Hour Classes 1. Cisa Barry When and How to Hire 2. Helen Haughey Standards of Quality Who Cares? 3. Leslie Littell Introduction to Painting on Silk 4. Barbie McCormick Perfect Binding and Piping Last Hurrah Afternoon Tea 5

6 Monday, October 19, am Conference Registration 9am-4:30pm Post Conference Master Classes Day 1 1. Joyce Hittesdorf Transformational Reconstruction Innovative Patternmaking 2. Claire Shaeffer Chanel and That Jacket 10:30am Morning Break 12-1:30pm Lunch Break Tuesday, October 20, am-4:30pm Post Conference Master Classes Day 2 1. Joyce Hittesdorf Transformational Reconstruction Innovative Patternmaking 2. Claire Shaeffer Chanel and That Jacket 10:30am 12-1:30pm Morning Break Lunch Break 6

7 CONFERENCE CLASSES BY THE DAY Wednesday, October 14 and Thursday, October 15 2 Day Pre-conference Master Classes 1. The Art of Painting on Silk Diane Tuckman In this intensive silk painting workshop, using special dyes, participants will learn the basic silk painting techniques, specific vocabulary and view many samples. Silk dyes in combination with silk produce jewel-toned, brilliant, lush colors and the silk remains very soft to the touch. The direct result of the steam setting process, which bonds the silk to the dyes, is the driving force to promoting the beautiful colors. Participants will paint 6 technical pieces 12x12, in addition to two samples which can be matted and framed. Diane Tuckman was born in Egypt, then fled to Paris, where she was exposed to the fashion world, taking sewing and tailoring classes at night school. She introduced the art of painting on silk to America in 1978 by importing the products, as well as founding and serving as the Executive Director of SPIN (Silk Painters International), a non-profit organization to promote painting on silk. The co-author of three books, she is in the process of publishing a fourth, The Fine Art of Painting on Silk. ALL MATERIALS PROVIDED IN THE KIT! Students only need bring latex gloves SKILLS REQUIREMENT - NO PRIOR PAINTING OR ART SKILLS REQUIRED! Even if you have never picked up a brush, you can share in the joy of painting on silk as you watch the dyes glide through the silk. Please bring your love of silk, sense of color and enthusiasm. Kit Fee - $40 - included in Supply Kit - Cocoon, frame, push pins, two pieces of stabilized silk, egg carton, 20 small plastic cups and lids, paper towels, squirrel hair brush, stiff brush, small brush, Q-tips, water cups, designs, 2 resist applicators, resist, antifusant with brush, dyes, dilutant with bottle, salts prepared in small cups, various salts, alcohol, Windex, three weights of China silk, Resistad diluted and colored, steaming supplies, handouts. 7

8 2. Introduction to Tambour Beading Robert Haven Tambour beading is a rare art form known by few and taught by fewer. It is perhaps best described as a dance of the hands executed with the precision of the tango and the grace of the waltz. Students will learn the basics of dressing the frame, along with how to work the hook to apply beads and sequins as well as to do decorative surface embroidery. The technique requires coordination between the right and left hand. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: good and eye coordination, very good eyesight as the work is EXTREMELY fine. Robert Haven is a well-known tambour beading instructor in the United States who is certified by Lesage, the famed embroidery company in Paris. He has also earned a certificate in Hand Embroidery from the Royal School of Needlework in London. Robert s work has been showcased around the world and is known for his DVD Introduction to Tambour Beading. He regularly teaches master classes in tambour beading in his Kentucky studio as well as at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, Ryerson University in Toronto, Laci s in Berkley CA and Halsey OnStage in Chicago. A retired professor of costume technology at the University of Kentucky, his theatrical career included creating costumes for the University of Michigan, University of Illinois, the Old Globe Theater and the Guthrie. Supplies needed: -Basic polyester machine sewing thread in black and white. Fancy cotton quilting thread is not appropriate as it frays too easily -thread snips -pencil and paper to take notes and draw pattern on the organza Some folks may bring additional light and need ample electric cords depending on the placement of outlets in the room. Kit Fee - $ includes Tambour handle and three hooks, Tambour frame 36 x 18 and 4 C- clamps, 9 fixed sided embroidery frames (slate frames, scroll frames, hoops, etc., are not suitable for this technique), spool holder, sequins for the project, chenille thread for the 8

9 project, embroidery floss for the project, design pattern, silk organza, seed beads and bugle beads for the project. 3. Custom Tailored Jacket - Sue Widawski Sharpen and refine basic sewing techniques by learning the Standards of Tailoring. Traditional European custom tailoring techniques will be used to construct a half of a full scale jacket. Emphasis will be placed on custom tailoring techniques such as: application of hair canvas, twill tape, shoulder and back stays, interfaced tailored hems, hand worked buttonhole, welt pocket, and assembling and setting of sleeve. Hand sewing techniques taught will include: padstitching, slip stitch and tailor s hemming stitch. Additionally, custom tailoring terminology and features will be discussed. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: All levels with basic machine and hand sewing skills Susan is a Professor at Wayne State University in the department of Fashion Design and Merchandising. Her MA is from Wayne State in apparel design and her BS is from Eastern Michigan University in fashion merchandising. Additionally, Susan is a European trained custom tailor. Susan s work has been exhibited and presented on national and international levels, including a garment that received the Handweavers Guild of America s 2008 HGA Award in recognition of a work demonstrating outstanding creativity and craftsmanship in the fiber arts. Student Supplies - Along with personal basic sewing supplies, include: Needles (between sizes 5-10), thimble, white basting thread, marking pencil/tracing paper, measuring tape/gauge/ruler, fabric scissors, long pins with large heads, machine sewing thread. Kit Fee - $35- includes pre-cut wool jacket sample, hair canvas, twill tape, hand sewing thread, muslin backstay, shoulder pad and sleeve head, fusible interfacing, hem facing strips, buttonhole thread, size seven sharp needles, tailor s chalk and printed course pack. 9

10 4. Beautiful Bridal Headwear - Veronica Chin Bridal headwear is one of the most important accessories in a bride s ensemble. In the past it was a deeply symbolic piece, but times have changed- the veil is no longer required or wanted by the contemporary bride. Everything from headbands, combs, and tiaras, to cage veils and funky fascinators are on the A-list for the chic bride. We will explore a variety of these techniques from covered buckram headpieces, fanciful hair clips to veiling and so much more! As always, this is a very hands on class with many demos. You will return to your studios with lots of unique bridal confections! Veronica Chin drew upon a teacher s vast knowledge of hat making to create Burning Bush Millinery in After receiving a BFA/Fashion Design from Washington University/St. Louis and a MS/Textiles, Environment and Design from the University of Wisconsin/Madison and working in the L.A. fashion industry, she has taught beginning and advanced millinery for over thirty years in many Chicago area colleges. Twice a year Veronica ventures to the Amish country of Indiana to teach workshops at JudithM Millinery to milliners from all over the US and Canada. She has taught hundreds of students throughout her career and many were inspired to become professional milliners themselves. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Need to know hand and machine sewing skills. Millinery Supplies needed: basic sewing supplies, #5 white grosgrain ribbon min 1 yd., 1 yd. of white buckram, 1 yd. white crinoline, #19 millinery wire min. 2 yds., Hat Box (to carry your creations home!) Recommended Suppliers: Judithm.com (Indiana), Hatsupply.com ($79.00 minimum order) (Oregon), Manhatco.com (NYC). Other supplies: Metal pushpins, Small hammer, Tin foil, Masking tape, Hair dryer, Glue Gun/Glue sticks, sewing thread (should match color of hat), Buttonhole/Craft thread, optional: Steamer. Trims for hats: fabric, ribbons, veiling, horsehair, and old pcs. Of jewelry. Optional: if you own any hat blocks or purchased HatShaper plastic blocks last year, bring them along. She will have limited amount of blocks! (hatshapers.com) 10

11 Friday, October 16 - Core Conference Full Day Classes 1. Fashion Illustrating - Judith Baer Fashion illustrating can be fun and easy by using flat drawings similar to the ones on the back of a pattern envelope. With a little practice and some tricks of the trade, the student will have the ability to quickly and accurately sketch their ideas. This workshop would be helpful for communication with clients, developing a fashion line and building a portfolio, as well as valuable to those working on their MSDP. Judith Baer, an award-winning artist, is a recent graduate of the MSDP program. Having worked in the fashion industry for over 45 years, today she has a line of art to wear that she sells at art shows in in boutiques across the nation. Judith worked in LA as a production patternmaker for several companies, including Carole Little. In the 1970 s she ran a dressmaking business making wedding gowns, drill team uniforms and custom clothing. She was the winner of the Viewer s Choice Award for the 2007 Bernina Fashion Show. Pre-Requisite Skills Required to Take the Course: A basic knowledge of sewing patterns and some drawing skills would be helpful for this class, but if you can trace a croquis (template) you can achieve some great illustrations. Student Supplies: Pencil (I prefer a mechanical.5), Micron.01 or.005 pen black, 6-12 ruler (a grid ruler is best), sheets of white computer pater 8.5x11, Tracing paper 8.5x11 or 9x12, Optional light box and extension cord No kit fee Instructor will provide class booklet with drawings, croquies and info on the easiest way to achieve fabulous fashion flats and illustrations. She will also share the notebook that she did for her MSDP Fashion Illustration Module. 11

12 2. Those Pesky Bridal Alterations - Brenda Breitenmoser Let s tackle all those pesky bridal alterations! For example the seven month pregnant bride who bought her gown a year ago (when does a lace-up work, and how to insert it), fast and easy ways to remove and reattach beadwork, the challenge of bustling different styles and fabrics. Samples of dresses are on a half-scale form. Brenda has been a professional in her field for 30 years, working on everything from furs to bridal gowns. A member of ASDP since 2006, she hasn t missed a single conference. She was the first recipient of the prestigious MSDP certification. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take Course none Supplies needed Note taking supplies, camera for taking pictures of samples (optional) No kit fee. 3. Design Helen Haughey Where do you start when a (new) client asks you to recommend a style for a custom garment that will best suit her body? How do you analyze her body type and make the recommendation that will keep her coming back for more? Do you have the tools to do this for yourself? In this class we will look at the Golden Rule for body types and what features are most important for consideration of style and proportion. We will begin with the theory and then put the theory into practice with guided exercises. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: No particular sewing skill is required for this class but this a class for those who have custom garment clients or for those who would like to have guidance for themselves or are working or their MSDP. Supplies needed: Notebook and pencil Colored pencils Kit Fee: $10.00 includes Handout, Body template, Vellum paper, Fabric samples Helen Haughey is the owner of a custom couture business, Helen Haughey Designs, based in St Louis, Missouri. Helen began sewing for her own wardrobe at an early age and later expanded to family and friends. She enjoys working on a variety of garments but especially tailored day wear, bridal and evening wear. In recent years she has published in Threads magazine and taught classes in a variety of national forums. 12

13 4. Everyday Tailoring with Style Day 1 - Joyce Murphy This class can be taken as a 2-day class or either day may be taken by itself. Day 1 covers pants and skirts: Slimming down pant legs. Waist, hip and thigh adjustments. Replacing jeans zippers. Hemming pants and skirts. Hemming pleated skirts (from the bottom). Joyce Simons Murphy is an inventor, an author (self-published and Threads), a tailor and a teacher. Her inventions include a pants creation system for women; a system for pricing alterations (S.N.A.P. Tool ) and a multi-media format for teaching online. After 20 years as a tailor shop owner, Joyce shifted her focus to teaching in order to pass along her skills as learned from the masters. Joyce has degrees in apparel design and teaching, and has gained sufficient computer skills through the school of hard knocks to consider herself either crazy or dangerous. And last but not least she is a proud charter member of ASDP. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Intermediate to advanced sewing and design skills. The pace will be fast but well documented. Joyce will cover as many alterations as it is possible to cover and still do justice to the subject matter in the 1 or 2-day course. This course will be most appreciated by those with advanced sewing and design skills. However others less advanced or experienced stand to benefit as well and should not be excluded. Supplies needed: general sewing supplies such as scissors, needles, pins, measuring tape, ruler, chalk, and thimble. And please bring the zipper needed to use in the jeans zipper replacement project. Practice garments (from Goodwill or other source for cast-offs) to alter in class: Pants to take in, let out or trim down the legs A pleated skirt to shorten (optional), Jeans in need of a new zipper. An upcycling, restyling project for discussion. No Kit Fee. 5. Making a Couture Foundation - Pamela Powell The design of the foundation will depend on how it is going to be used; as a support foundation hidden inside a garment, as underwear or outerwear. In this class you will learn to make a light weight strapless bustier to support a strapless gown/garment. This garment will have under wired cups and a boned body. The neckline will have a fashion fabric facing to match the fabric of the gown. 13

14 Pamela has many years of working for both high end design houses and with her own private clients. She studied fashion design at the London College of Fashion and has taken classes at the English! Couture School and Hand and Lock. She currently teaches at College of DuPage (Illinois) in the Fashion Studies Program. In 2010 her first book Tailored Fashion Design, was published by Fairchild Books, NY, and her second book Lingerie Design, the Complete Course, Laurence King Publishing, will be available Fall, Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: medium to high Student Supplies needed: general sewing supplies including both paper and fabric scissors Kit Fee: $25.00 includes all supplies needed to make a 36B cup bustier, fabric cut pattern pieces, boning, under wires, both boning and underwire channeling, sewing thread, hand sewing needles, interfacing, top band and hem elastic, hook and eye tape. (She can change the cup size;, please contact her with required size at least 2 weeks before the conference). Saturday, October 17 l Core Conference Full Day Classes 1. Everyday Tailoring with Style Day 2 - Joyce Murphy This class can be taken as a 2-day class or either day may be taken by itself. Day 2 covers blouses, sweaters, and/or jackets: Resetting blouse sleeves when narrowing shoulders and shortening sleeves from the top. Alternatives ways to narrow shoulders. Shortening sleeves. Restyling (upcycling) challenges: as time allows. Joyce Simons Murphy is an inventor, an author (self-published and Threads), a tailor and a teacher. Her inventions include a pants creation system for women; a system for pricing alterations (S.N.A.P. Tool ) and a multi-media format for teaching online. After 20 years as a tailor shop owner, Joyce shifted her focus to teaching in order to pass along her skills as learned from the masters. Joyce has degrees in apparel design and teaching, and has gained sufficient computer skills through the school of hard knocks to consider herself either crazy or dangerous. And last but not least she is a proud charter member of ASDP. 14

15 Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: This course will be most appreciated by those with advanced sewing and design skills. However others less advanced or experienced stand to benefit as well and should not be excluded. The pace will be fast but well documented. Joyce will cover as many alterations as it is possible to cover and still do justice to the subject matter in the 1 or 2-day course. General sewing supplies such as scissors, needles, pins, measuring tape, ruler, chalk, thimble. And please bring the zipper needed to use in the jeans zipper replacement project. Practice garments (from Goodwill or other source for cast-offs) to alter in class: A blouse, sweater or jacket in need of narrower shoulders An upcycling, restyling project for discussion. No kit fee. 2. Hand-worked Embellishments for Lingerie - Pamela Powell A bride once worked for months on her trousseau that included alluring hand embroidered and embellished underwear. This class is looking back at these vintage and couture techniques such as lace set appliqués, silk ribbon embroideries, bullion roses and buds, decorative insertion stitches, shell and picot hems to corset flossing. Pamela has many years of working for both high end design houses and with her own private clients. She studied fashion design at the London College of Fashion and has taken classes at the English Couture School and Hand and Lock. She currently teaches at College of DuPage (Illinois) in the Fashion Studies Program. In 2010 her first book Tailored Fashion Design, was published by Fairchild Books, NY, and her second book Lingerie Design, the Complete Course, Laurence King Publishing, will be available Fall, Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: All skill levels Student Supplies Needed: Embroidery hoop, scissors, embroidery floss or thread in colors of your choice, different sizes of silk ribbon in colors of your choice, seed beads, sewing thread, light weight fabric, pencil and paper for note taking Kit Fee - $10.00 includes embroidery floss, silk ribbons (4mm to 33mm width), embroidery and chenille needles, sewing thread, seed beads, cotton lawn and silk organza for embroidering onto. 15

16 Saturday October 17 Core Conference 3 Hour Classes, 8:30-11:30am 1. Identifying Fitting Personalities Rae Cumbie It s the fit that makes the fashion, or so the old commercial said. But how do we find the most fashionable and comfortable fit for our clients? In this world of fast fashion and stretch fabrics, how do women even verbalize what they want and how they like their clothing to fit? This class will consider several general fitting personalities. We will explore techniques for identifying a client s fit personality preferences and translating them into design suggestions. Today s woman longs for beautiful, effortless clothing that fits her body and is perfect for her lifestyle. By providing the prompts and vocabulary your clients need to verbalize their preferences, you can help them find wardrobe solutions while establishing a prosperous relationship for both of you. Rae Cumbie is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewers of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, Sew, Let s get Dressed! to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. In 2015 she is the Fitting FAQ columnist for Sew News Magazine. Rae has over 30 years of experience as an award winning custom dressmaker and still takes commissions involving vintage redesign and wearable art. She has served on the ASDP National Board, including as President, and currently sits on the MSDP Board. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take this Course an interest in finding the best fit for yourself and your clients Student Supplies Needed: Note taking materials No kit fee. 16

17 2. The Virtues of Underlining - Barbie McCormick The Who, What, When, Why and Hows of Underlining. A key component in upgrading a basic garment (or any sewn item) to Couture level. A variety of options and techniques for underlining fabric, to improve the construction, wearability, durability, and appearance of any garment Barbie has been sewing professionally for more than 20 years. She does all sorts of sewing, but she specializes in formal, bridal, and couture clothing for both men and women. She loves all aspects of the process-from design, to patternwork, fitting, construction, and the final details. She truly is a jack of all trades in sewing, and has also completed her MSDP Certification. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Basic fabric knowledge, and basic garment construction skills. Desire to upgrade garments to Couture level Student Supplies: Note taking materials Kit Fee: $20 includes large swatches of various underlining and fashion fabrics for pairing, informational handouts/ charts 3. Innovative Set-in Sleeves that Fit, Flatter, and Function Well - Sarah Veblen Set-in sleeves are commonly used, yet uncommonly difficult to fit. Sarah will discuss typical fitting issues when developing a comfortable and flattering set-in sleeve; the critical relationship between the sleeve cap length and the armhole opening: the typical popular adjustments so the sleeve fits smoothly into the armhole; and the compromises that these typical adjustments yield. Sarah will then describe a magic twopiece sleeve that solves many fitting issues and allows for a clean insertion. Plus, she ll show you garments with her new, innovative sleeve designs that address the key issue of accommodating the bicep nicely while fitting into the armhole smoothly. Sarah Veblen is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah now concentrates on teaching sewing, design, and patternmaking at all levels. She has more than twenty Threads Magazine articles, and her years of experience in fitting led to her book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. She teaches from her studio in Maryland, as a guest lecturer and at sewing expos and conferences across the 17

18 country, online at PatternReview.com, and has recently completed a series of video classes for Threads Magazine/Taunton Press. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Some knowledge of sleeve fitting and patternwork Student Supplies: Note taking materials No kit fee. Saturday October 1 Core Conference 3 Hour Classes 1:30 pm 4:30 p.m. 1. Slow Pants Fitting One Step at a Time Rae Cumbie Everyone is in a hurry for a fabulous pair of pants. But getting a great fit in pants is a slow process that is worth the time. Since each woman s body is unique, it is helpful to slow down the fitting process. See how step-by-step incremental fitting will lead to a better fit and improved satisfaction with the resulting pattern. Learn how the grain lines and horizontal balance lines provide clues to successful fitting solutions so the pants possibilities are endless. Use this knowledge to educate your custom clients, too, as you produce better fitting pants for both them and yourself. Rae Cumbie is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewers of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, Sew, Let s get Dressed! to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. In 2015 she is the Fitting FAQ columnist for Sew News Magazine. Rae has over 30 years of experience as an award winning custom dressmaker and still takes commissions involving vintage redesign and wearable art. She has served on the ASDP National Board, including as President, and currently sits on the MSDP Board. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take this Course an interest in finding the best fit for yourself and your clients Student Supplies Needed: Note taking materials No kit fee. 18

19 2. Secrets to Sewing a Classic Sheath Dress - Helen Haughey In this class we will focus on the key elements required to achieve a classic sheath dress: choice of pattern for different figure types, fabrications, construction methods, fit and finishing. We will discuss the most common problems encountered in fit. We will make samples of the techniques Helen has found to be invaluable for a beautifully finished garment. wheel, thread, pins Helen Haughey is the owner of a custom couture business, Helen Haughey Designs, based in St Louis, Missouri. Helen began sewing for her own wardrobe at an early age and later expanded to family and friends. She enjoys working on a variety of garments but especially tailored day wear, bridal and evening wear. In recent years she has published in Threads magazine and taught classes in a variety of national forums Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: sewing 19 Intermediate Student Supplies: Rotary cutter + cutting mat, or scissors, tracing Kit Fee $10.00 Includes fabric for making samples, dressmaker carbon, hand stitching needle 3. Tapping into Your Creativity - Sarah Veblen Learn to access your creativity and let it flow, rather than waiting for your muse to strike! Sarah will guide you through a variety of exercises that will give you concrete ways to tap into and harness your creativity, and how to let it freely flow. She will also discuss different aspects of being creative, as well as different stages of the creative process. If you want to learn how to get creative, imaginative, and innovative ideas moving, this class is for you. If you have tasted that experience when time flies by and it seems effortless to be productive and you want to get in the zone more easily and more often this class is for you! Sarah Veblen is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah now concentrates on teaching sewing, design, and patternmaking at all levels. She has more than twenty Threads Magazine articles, and her years of experience in fitting led to her book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. She teaches from her studio in Maryland, as a guest lecturer and at sewing expos and conferences across the country, online at PatternReview.com, and has recently completed a series of video classes for Threads Magazine/Taunton Press.

20 Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: None; Anyone interested in the creative process. Student Supplies: Paper and pencil No Kit Fee Sunday, October 18 Core Conference 3 Hour Classes - 9:30 a.m. 12:30 p.m. 1. Sew a Detachable Fur Collar Helen Haughey Let s get a head start and be ready for the holidays. These collars have been stylishly popular over the last few years, as well as adding luxurious warmth to any garment. Make yours attachable to a neckline or truly detachable. Helen will demonstrate using a fur pelt, however, you may choose to make yours from faux fur while still learning all the techniques for the real thing! Helen Haughey is the owner of a custom couture business, Helen Haughey Designs, based in St Louis, Missouri. Helen began sewing for her own wardrobe at an early age and later, tailored day wear, bridal and evening wear. In recent years she has published in Threads magazine and taught classes in a variety of national forums. Pre-Requisite Skills needed to take the course Intermediate Sewing Skills Student Supplies Needed: Muslin to make collar pattern, drafting paper, ruler, pencil, Front and back bodice pattern of garment to which collar is to be attached, fur pelt or sufficient faux fur, heavy charmeuse/satin for collar lining must not be synthetic,thread to match fur, 6-8 buttons (5/8 ) to match fur/lining Kit Fee - $10 includes instructions for drafting pattern for collarless necklines, blade for cutting fur, tape for binding fur, silamide thread, needle for hand stitching fur 20

21 2. Sew So Psychology Noreen Hoenig Clients posing a challenge to your business are a silent occupational hazard. Words in the intimacy of a fitting room may push buttons. This class teaches you how to prevent a customer from becoming a liability and build healthy relationships. Teaching methods include handouts, lecture, self-assessments, dialogue, role play and humor. Participants learn about special imperfections, anger management, prevention of cognitive distortions, client centered communications, barriers, role play and problem solving. Noreen draws on her career experiences managing people in all stages of life and development, and shares her insights to benefit your business and wellbeing. Noreen Hoenig is a registered nurse with a BS in Psychology from Loyola University, Chicago, and an MS from SUNY, Fredonia, NY. She has worked as a psychiatric nurse for many years in a variety of settings in both New York and Illinois, including as an instructor at Niagara University and SUNY, and at the Chicago Police Academy. Noreen is an ASDP friend member in the Chicago chapter. Pre-Requisites Needed for This Course None Student Supplies Needed: Note taking materials No Kit Fee 3. Proper Pressing Techniques Barbie McCormick How to properly press a garment as it is being constructed, to achieve a perfect, professional finish. Will cover different types of seams in a variety of fabrics, plus clipping and grading to get a smooth, flat surface. Tips and tricks for using a variety of pressing tools, as well as the optimal scissors for grading and clipping. Barbie has been sewing professionally for more than 20 years. She does all sorts of sewing, but she specializes in formal, bridal, and couture clothing for both men and women. She loves all aspects of the process-from design, to patternwork, fitting, construction, and the final details. She truly is a jack of all trades in sewing, and has also completed her MSDP Certification. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Basic garment construction knowledge, and basic fabric knowledge (types of fabric and weaves). Student Supplies: Small fabric scissors (4-5 embroidery or tailor points, applique, or similar), 21

22 pressing hams, seam rolls, clappers, sleeve boards, various pressing tools, etc. Bring what you have if convenient, but there should be enough to share- not everyone needs to bring them Kit Fee: $10 includes pre-sewn seam samples in a variety of fabrics and shapes, detailed handouts. 4. Become an Effective Teacher Sarah Veblen Just because you know how to do something and do it well doesn t mean that you necessarily will be a good teacher. However, you can learn to become a competent, confident, and effective teacher. Sarah will discuss concrete things you can work on, from preparing for a presentation, to delivering your presentation, to handling student questions. She will also share with you her journey of becoming a well-regarded teacher. Paper-and-pencil exercises during class will provide you with a guide for developing your own teaching style and your teaching skills. Sarah Veblen is a custom fashion designer who specializes in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality garment construction. Dedicated to promoting the craft of garment-making, Sarah now concentrates on teaching sewing, design, and patternmaking at all levels. She has more than twenty Threads Magazine articles, and her years of experience in fitting led to her book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. She teaches from her studio in Maryland, as a guest lecturer and at sewing expos and conferences across the country, online at PatternReview.com, and has recently completed a series of video classes for Threads Magazine/Taunton Press. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Anyone who has a skill set or knowledge base that they want to share with others through teaching. Student Supplies: Note taking materials No Kit Fee 22

23 Core Conference 3 Hour Classes 1:30 p.m. 4:30 p.m. 1. When and How to Hire Cisa Barry There comes a time when you have more work than you can do, and short of finding additional hours in the day, you may need to consider hiring a helper (or two). Unless you majored in business or had a former life in HR, the idea and actual process of knowing when to hire, finding applicants and figuring out who to hire can be daunting. This class will go over the who, what, where, when, why and how of employees. Topics will include timing, hiring, training, compensation, quality control, documentation, insurance, as well as taxes and liability issues. Pre-Requisites needed to Take Course None Student Supplies Needed: Note taking materials Kit Fee - $5 Cisa has been a member of ASDP since 2011, and has loved every minute of it! Calling home from her first conference she told her husband, I ve found my people! This still holds very true and that feeling of comradery (and sometimes us against the world ) grows as she finds more ways to become involved with the ASDP tribe. Cisa is the owner of Sew Fitting, Southern Indiana s only full-service tailor shop and custom clothier. When she can escape her workaholic tendencies, she can be found dancing (excessively) or playing urban farmer. 2. Standards of Quality Who Cares? Helen Haughey So often what we observe in the media and especially in viewing programs like Project Runway is a rough and ready garment. Is careful garment construction and attention to detail a thing of the past? Will our customers pay for careful (and sometimes lengthy) construction? Several years ago all members of ASDP received a copy of the Standards of Quality for Custom Clothiers and in at least one module of the MSDP certificate program these are used for critiquing garments. In the class we will discuss the Standards of Quality and how we can adhere to them without jeopardizing our profitability. We will also look at commercial patterns and see how these adhere to or deviate from the Standards. We will also look at a variety of garments to assess critically their quality, as well as discuss how a client s unique body must be considered while still adhering to the Standards. 23

24 Helen Haughey is the owner of a custom couture business, Helen Haughey Designs, based in St Louis, Missouri. Helen began sewing for her own wardrobe at an early age and later, tailored day wear, bridal and evening wear. In recent years she has published in Threads magazine and taught classes in a variety of national forums. Pre-Requisite Skills Required to Take this Class Interested in the fine art of sewing and design Student Supplies needed: Note taking materials Kit Fee: $7.50 includes handouts and DVD 3. Introduction to Painting on Silk Leslie Littell This hands-on session will allow participants to experience the Serti form of silk painting in a make and take approach. The workshop will combine presentation, demonstration and hands on play with jacquard type silk dyes, resists and salt. Each participant will get one framed silk circle to work on. Brushes, patterns to trace (or make up your own!) resists and dyes, and a handout will be available. No supplies or equipment needed. Open to all levels. Leslie Littell has been an educator in both Fashion and Theatre for more than 20 years. She holds a Bachelor of Science in Design from the University of Cincinnati, and a Master of Arts in History from Rutgers University. Leslie is also a member and elected officer in the Costume Society of America. Pre-Requisite Skills for Taking Course None Student Supplies Needed # 2 type pencil or fabric marking pencil (optional) Kit Fee: $13.00 includes 1 framed silk circle; 1 brush which participants will get to keep; plus handout with resources listed, use of silk dyes, resists and mixing containers 24

25 4. Perfect Binding and Piping Barbie McCormick How to choose, prepare and sew a variety of bindings and pipings as edge or garment finishes. Will cover binding and piping inside and outside corners, convex and concave curves, both machine and hand finishing, smooth and professional joins. Variety of fabrics, including wools, cottons, silk chiffon, silk charmeuse, devore, etc. Barbie has been sewing professionally for more than 20 years. She does all sorts of sewing, but she specializes in formal, bridal, and couture clothing for both men and women. She loves all aspects of the process-from design, to patternwork, fitting, construction, and the final details. She truly is a jack of all trades in sewing, and has also completed her MSDP Certification. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take Class - Basic machine and hand sewing skills, basic fabric knowledge Student Supplies Needed: Machine thread, pins, thread snips, seam ripper, small fabric scissors Kit Fee: $10 includes a variety of fillings, bias strips, and fabrics, plus handouts Monday, October, 19, 2015 Post Conference Master Classes Day 1 1. Transformational Reconstruction Innovative Patternmaking Joyce Hittesdorf Suggested Student Ability: Skilled in sewing techniques with knowledge of traditional patternmaking. Put aside all the rules of your craft and explore a whole new way to design garments. Spend 2 exciting days learning the techniques and concepts of Transformational Reconstruction. This form of pattern making was developed by Japanese designer, Shingo Sato. (This is NOT a new way to do traditional flat pattern and cannot substitute for that basic skill. Please Google Transformational Reconstruction.) You will begin with practice of basic techniques needed to advance to more difficult designs. Each new concept will be demonstrated. Time will be allotted for the students to make 25

26 samples. This class will make you look at patternmaking in a completely different way. Using this method you will be able to design garments that are beautiful to behold as well as interesting in their design elements. Having been a dressmaker for almost 40 years, Joyce has a wealth of knowledge she hopes to pass on to the next generation. In October of 2013, she sold her business, Something Wonderful!, and embarked on several new adventures. One of the most challenging was to study for 6 months under Shingo Sato. In January of this year she became a Master of Transformational Reconstruction. Shingo Sato gave her his permission to teach his techniques. Joyce is excited to lead you on a journey of mind boggling manipulation of fabric and patterns. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Skilled at sewing with some knowledge of traditional flat pattern design. Also lots of patience is helpful. Student Supplies: Basic sewing equipment, sewing machine and dress form if possible. List of fabrics and other equipment will be ed to students. 2. Chanel and That Jacket Claire Shaeffer One of the most creative and fascinating couturiers in the twentieth century, Coco Chanel created a look that is still popular today. This workshop will focus on Chanel s iconic jacket and the Chanellisms which make it distinctive: the fabrics, quilting, unique double buttonhole, decorative trims, chain weight, and 3-piece sleeve. Students will complete a variety of samples, decorative trims, and a 3-piece sleeve. Claire Shaeffer is the author of Couture Sewing Techniques- Revised Edition (2011), Couture Basics (DVD-Taunton Press), and Behind the Seams: Chanel (a CD). She has studied Chanel designs in more than 20 museums and private collections for over 25 years. Her personal collection includes 40 couture suits and numerous ready-to-wear jackets and knock-offs. She teaches Chanel and That Suit workshops in Palm Springs, CA. Pre-Requisite Skills Needed to Take the Course: Intermediate Student Supplies: Basic sewing equipment Kit Fee: $20.00 includes fabrics, silk lining, pattern, thread, trims. 26

27 2015 LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD RECIPIENT SANDRA BETZINA 27

28 Conference Registration and Early Bird Pricing There is an Early Bird discount for ASDP members who register this year between July 1 and July 15, 2015, so sign up early! We suggest that you print this brochure to review and make your choices. Classes have space limits and will be filled by a first registered policy. If the class you wish to choose is already full, you will not be able to register for that class. You will need to make an alternate choice. Registration for a particular class will close when that class reaches its maximum capacity. Otherwise class registration will remain open up until the time a class begins. However, any class that has not reached its minimum registration number by September 1, 2015, is subject to cancellation by ASDP. All noted kit fees are payable directly to the instructor at the beginning of your class. Conference registration fees are different for members and non-members. If you qualify to be a member and would like to join the Association before you register for conference, you may apply online at and click on Become a Member. Conference registration for non-members will open August 1, 2015, at 10:00 am CST. You may pay via PayPal, credit or debit card online only. You will find details on the registration form itself. Karen Gay VP of Conference Planning Conference@sewingprofessionals.org 28

29 Conference Pricing Schedule Registration available online for ASDP members at beginning July 1, Early Bird pricing good through July 15, Non-member registration begins August 1, Supply lists (if not included in brochure) will be sent to registrants for class by September 15 for registrations completed by September 1. See explanation of categories and what they include below. Registration Categories Early Bird After 7/15 Non-Member Full Conference Two Day (Friday, Saturday) Two Day (Saturday, Sunday) Friday only Saturday only Sunday only Master class Tour Event tickets fashion show ($40 at door), receptions, lunch, breakfast Banquet tickets Full conference includes Thursday night welcome reception, Friday class and keynote luncheon, fashion show, Saturday classes, Saturday evening banquet, Sunday breakfast, Sunday classes and Last Hurrah tea. Two day (Fri/Sat) includes Friday class, Keynote luncheon, fashion show, classes Saturday, and Saturday evening banquet. Two day (Sat/Sun) includes Saturday classes, Saturday evening banquet, Sunday breakfast, Sunday classes, and Last Hurrah tea. Friday only includes Friday class, Keynote luncheon and fashion show. Saturday only includes Saturday classes, Saturday evening banquet. Sunday only includes Sunday breakfast, Sunday classes and Last Hurrah tea. For those in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area interested in taking individual classes during core conference, contact ASDP for availability and price schedule at 29

30 Event Information Twin Cities Five F Tour The annual tour will be held Thursday, October 15, We ll leave the Crowne Plaza at 8:30 am by charter bus for a fun day of fantasy, fiber, foundations and fabric! Our first stop will be the Costume Rental shop of the renowned Guthrie Theater. Over 75,000 pieces fill this costume wonderland! We ll get a guided tour, and hear how they create fabulous costumes for their productions. The best part? We get to TOUCH THEM! Next we re on to St. Paul, and the Minnesota Textile Center, one of the finest fiber arts centers in the country. We ll visit their ever-changing gallery of textile exhibits and see the facilities where they teach all things fiber and textile. (Pssst! They also have an awesome library and gift shop!) A quick stop at Treadle Yard Goods will quell our fabric itch temporarily, then we ll head to the Minnesota History Center for a special tour of one of the most unique collections anywhere. Minnesota is the home of Munsingwear, the original long underwear, and MHC has the world s largest collection of unmentionables! From merry-widow corsets to union suits and vintage advertising, we ll see highlights of the collection and learn how this company, progressive for its time, built an empire on undies. Our final stop will be back across town to Brooklyn Park, and S.R. Harris. Prepare to be astounded at the sheer volume of yardage in this 30,000 square foot warehouse of fabric! Add in barrels of buttons, notions galore, and their self-serve feature (anything less than 5 yards you cut yourself) and it makes for an unforgettable finish to the day! Our motor coach will have us safely back to the hotel at 4:30 pm. Lunch is included, with details sent to tour registrants by . Join us for a terrific, fun-filled time! Welcome Reception This will be held Thursday evening, October 15, 2015 from 7-9 pm. It is a time to network, for friends to get reacquainted, and members, both novice and veteran, to forge new relationships. The board members will be available to answer questions regarding individual board positions and how Association leadership works in general. This year we will have stations set up and volunteers on hand to help you create or revise your Member Profile on the ASDP website, including taking your picture, if you desire. Heavy hors d oeuvres and a cash bar will be available. 30

31 Keynote Luncheon The luncheon with keynote speaker will be held Friday, October 16, from 11:45-1:15 pm, during the regular class lunch break. Fashion Show and Member Showcase Friday evening, October 16 we will have our member showcase, fashion show and Threads Challenge presentation. The runway show will start at 7:30 pm with the challenge winners announced at the end of the show. Applications for the member showcase and runway show are available on our website Vendor Marketplace We will host a vendor market on Saturday, October 17, from 2-6:30 pm. Fellow Association members, as well as local and national sewing and design-related businesses, will be on hand to show and sell you their beautiful products. Please take advantage of the opportunity to network with and buy from these vendors who go to so much effort to bring their products to you at conference. ASDP will again have a booth where you can purchase instructional DVD s, past conference photo CD s and Association logo items. We have scheduled the market again this year so that you may visit during your short afternoon class break, at the end of afternoon classes, or prior to the banquet. Annual Banquet and Lifetime Achievement Award Presentation This year the LAA has been moved to the banquet Saturday night, as it once was in years past. It will include a champagne toast (or non-alcoholic substitute) to our new recipient. With the change in event, we d like to make the banquet a little more special by inviting you to dress up for dinner! Please feel free to wear formalwear or the more creative festive cocktail attire, per your own interpretation! 31

32 Annual Breakfast Meeting The annual breakfast meeting is Sunday morning, October 17, Breakfast begins at 7:00 a.m.; the annual meeting convenes at 7:30 a.m. Officers reports and the board election will take place; formal members, please bring your completed ballot to the meeting. Also, the 2017 conference location will be announced. Last Hurrah Tea The popular Last Hurrah Tea will be held Sunday, October 17, 2015 at 4:45 pm. Join us for light refreshments and sweets. This is your last opportunity to gather with friends and associates, new and old, before the core conference ends and we go our separate ways. 32

33 MINNEAPOLIS INFORMATION Conference Location Crowne Plaza Downtown Northstar nd Avenue Minneapolis, Minnesota Phone # Reservations may be made by calling and giving the ASDP group name in order to get the discounted rate, or by calling the hotel directly at Reservations must be made by September 22 to receive the discount. A room rate of $120 per night has been negotiated for the duration of the conference, as well as for three days prior to and three days following, based on availability. Maximum four people per Double/Double Standard room. 33

34 Hotel Amenities: Non-smoking Express check-in and check-out Complimentary in-room coffee Sleep Advantage program Fitness center with 24 hour key card access Business center with 24 hour key card access Dry cleaning services available ATM machine Connected parking ramp Complimentary wireless high-speed internet in rooms The hotel has two restaurants on site Café Northstar, open for breakfast and lunch daily, and Krona Bar and Grill, open every day for lunch, dinner, and happy hour. The hotel is also directly connected to the Northstar Mall and downtown skyway, which have numerous restaurants and shops. PARKING Northstar parking ramp is accessible from 2nd Avenue, 7th Street, and 6th Street. Park on Levels C - G. Take hotel elevator (marked with signs) to 1st floor lobby. ASDP has negotiated a discounted rate of $23 per 24 hour period or evening rate of $14 after 2:30 p.m. 34

35 Area Transportation BY AIR Minneapolis is served by Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport (MSP), which has two separate terminals Terminal 1 (Lindbergh) and Terminal 2 (Humphrey), each serving different airlines. There is light rail transit which is free from one terminal to another. Ground Transportation from Airport From Terminal 1 (Lindbergh) For taxis or shuttles follow signs for Ground Transportation Atrium. For rental cars, buses, or light rail exit security and take the escalator or elevator down to the Transit Center, then down again for the Light Rail Station. From Terminal 2 (Humphrey) For shuttle, taxi or rental car - cross the skyway to the purple parking ramp and take the elevator or stairs down to Level 1 to the Ground Transportation Center. For Light Rail into the city cross the skyway to the parking ramp and stay on Level 2; follow the signs for Light Rail Station. In Orange Ramp, take the elevator or escalator down to the Light Rail Station. Travel to Terminal 1 is free; but you will need to pay for your ticket from Terminal 1 into the city By Taxi A taxi from the airport to downtown Minneapolis will cost $38-49, and though pricey, is not unreasonable if you re sharing a ride with others splitting the cost, especially if you re not accustomed to public transit. By Shuttle Super Shuttle MSP offers transport from either terminal transport center dropping off at any hotel downtown for $16 each way. It is a shared ride, so service is not always quick, but it does stop right at your hotel door. Their service desks at both terminals are staffed 24/7. By Light Rail The easiest and least expensive way to get from the airport to downtown is via light rail. The trip will cost $ , depending on day and time, and takes about 25 minutes. Take the Blue Line, and get off at the Government Plaza station at 5 th Street. (Note: In Minneapolis, avenues run north and south, streets run east and west). Go toward 2 nd Avenue and turn left on 2 nd. The Crowne Plaza is one block down on the right, between 6 th and 7 th Streets, across from the Grand Hotel. 35

36 WEATHER Minneapolis actually has more days of sunshine per year than either Chicago OR Indianapolis! Average weather in mid-october includes daytime highs in the upper 50 s and nighttime lows in the low 40 s, occasionally dipping to the high 30 s. But just remember, it s always dry and 72 degrees in the Skyway! CONFERENCE ATTIRE Attire for all daytime sessions is business casual. Evening events give members the opportunity to dress up a bit more, especially for the Saturday night banquet. And of course, we always love to see fashions of your own creation! 36