INSPIRATION. The. Colin Caruso

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4 INSPIRATION The As our 20th anniversary year in Professional Hair Color unfolds, we want to tell a story of where we ve been and where we re going. The 20/20 Collection is a wonderful reminder of our legacy and the incredible artists we grew up idolizing, like Robert Cromeans, Scott Cole and Linda Yodice, and their groundbreaking techniques, from Block Coloring to Angus M methods that many of us built our careers on and first sparked our creative juices. With a dynamic team of colorists, haircutters and true style makers, we set out to envision modern hair color 20 years into the future. Through our artist collaboration, we created what we hope will be future trends, and new ways for guests to express themselves through hair color. As a brand with a passion for living colorfully, we put our love for hair color innovation and education front and center in this collection, and we hope you enjoy the journey! 20 YEARS OF PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR LOOKING BACK, LOOKING FORWARD Professional Hair Color is proud to celebrate 20 years of outstanding color products and Color Bar sm support. Colin Caruso John Paul Mitchell Systems Artistic Director for Professional Hair Color Beginning in 1998 with the color, which started it all, we now have a full spectrum of professional hair color for endless possibilities. In this 20/20 Collection, led by Artistic Director for Professional Hair Color, Colin Caruso, get a glimpse into the future of color. 6 7

5 NEW LOOKS The Introducing four new, salon-ready cut and color techniques that will inspire, excite and pave the way for the next 20 years. BEHIND The SCENES Every step of the creative process, from the sketchbook to the photo shoot, was documented for hairstylists everywhere to experience the journey. 8 9

6 THE COLORISTS PAUL MITCHELL TEAM OF ARTISTRY Hand-selected by Colin Caruso for their individual skill and creativity, this dynamic collective of artists imagined, sketched and worked together to craft the 20/20 Collection and to define the future of hair color. COLIN CARUSO John Paul Mitchell Systems Artistic Director for Professional Hair Color With color innovation at the heart of his work, it s no surprise that Colin Caruso grew up coloring his friends hair in his parents basement. Having turned his passion into a lifelong career, the International Platform Artist and Educator also maintains the successful Salon CARU in Hoboken, New Jersey. HEATHER KAANOI John Paul Mitchell Systems Artistic Director A once-in-a-lifetime scholarship opportunity from Angus Mitchell to attend a Paul Mitchell School launched her career more than 10 years ago with John Paul Mitchell Systems. Today, Heather Kaanoi travels the world as an educator, while also serving as the proud salon owner of Dead Endz in Costa Mesa, California. 10 RYAN BELMONTE John Paul Mitchell Systems Artist A love of fashion and music led Ryan Belmonte to a career in hairdressing nearly 11 years ago under the mentorship of the late, legendary hairstylist Tom Harris. The clothing designer and techno DJ, who has worked alongside Colin Caruso at Salon CARU, considers his time behind the chair to be another creative outlet, as well as an opportunity to connect with people and make hair fun. FPO IRENE TOLEDO FPO John Paul Mitchell Systems Artist Working and traveling alongside Scott and Linda for eight years gave Irene Toledo an extraordinary, advanced education. A lively and charismatic Platform Artist for John Paul Mitchell Systems, the Puerto Rico native embraces every opportunity to share her passion with fellow stylists and educators. 11

7 THE HAIRCUTTERS TEAM OF ARTISTRY JASON REYES John Paul Mitchell Systems International Trainer and Artist Jason Reyes began honing his skills early on, working behind the chair throughout college before joining John Paul Mitchell Systems as an International Educator. The Miami-based artist, known for his barbering and haircutting mastery, has been instrumental in developing a barbering curriculum, as well as the launch of MVRCK. FERNIE ANDONG John Paul Mitchell Systems Artist Fernie Andong is perhaps best known as Fern the Barber, a nickname earned for his barbering skills and popularized by his considerable social media presence. Having graduated from The Real Barber s School and a Paul Mitchell School, the John Paul Mitchell Systems Educator and Platform Artist also helped develop the new barbering line MVRCK. JULIAN PERLINGIERO Guest Artist Growing up in Philadelphia, Julian Perlingiero developed an interest in hairdressing while spending time at the salon where his sister worked as a makeup artist. After rising within the Vidal Sassoon Academy, Julian moved to Los Angeles where he befriended Angus Mitchell. The former salon owner, stylist and educator is passionate about sharing his knowledge and experience with hairdressers around the world. CHELSEA LITCHFIELD John Paul Mitchell Systems International Trainer and Artist A love of fine art led Chelsea Litchfield to the hair industry, and it continues to influence her artful approach to dimensional color and precision haircutting. From humble beginnings in a mom-and-pop beauty school to serving as a John Paul Mitchell Systems National Educator, the salon owner of Abstract Hair Artistry also served on the artistic team for the launch of Paul Mitchell Neon. FPO 12 13

8 THE STYLIST ARTIST SPOTLIGHT Styling inspiration for the 20/20 Collection came from my desire to bring a touch of celebrity glam to daily style. From Julia Roberts perfect volume to Jennifer Lawrence s undone bob, you can achieve an element of that in everyday wear. My goal was also to accentuate the cut and color while playing up the versatility of each model s hair. NOOGIE THAI John Paul Mitchell Systems Editorial Director Growing up in a traditional Chinese family, education was a top priority for Noogie Thai. After studying Social Ecology and managing education programs at his university, Noogie was looking for something more. He followed his passion for hair to a Paul Mitchell School and he hasn t looked back. With specialties focused on long hairstyling, editorial work and television, the International Educator has earned two Emmy nominations and a People s Choice Award. At the intersection of past and present, creativity and craftsmanship is where you ll find four new hair color and cutting techniques created by our Team of Artistry. Prepare to be inspired

9 LOOK 1 CAMOUFLAGE AN UNEXPECTED BLEND Inspired by fashion and art, this look reinterprets the classic camouflage print in a modern way. Bordeaux and forest green tones seemingly meld into one another, creating a visual element of surprise

10 LOOK 1 - CAMOUFLAGE Colorist Ryan Belmonte "After consulting with my model, I decided to add green tones to play up the color of her eyes, and I added deep, smoky tones to mute the vibrancy of the other colors to best suit her style." Haircutter Chelsea Litchfield I think the camouflage color can play with the disconnection of the hidden layers within the haircut being camouflaged by the veil of disconnection hanging over the top. Stylist Noogie Thai This is the beautifully undone look everyone wants. The randomness of the undone waves not too formed, not too perfect shows off the amazing color perfectly. BEFORE COLOR APPLICATION - PHASE 1 FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 4AA (4/11) 10 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) Skylight 1 scoop 40 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) 6MT (6/2) 6V (6/6) Blue Intensifier (0/88) 1" 30 volume 2 oz. (60 g/ml) FORMULA 4 FORMULA 1 PHASE 2 5A (5/1) 5G (5/3) Green Intensifier (0/22) 1" 30 volume 2.5 oz. (75 g/ml) 4AA (4/11) 10 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) FORMULA 2 * FORMULA 3 * FORMULA 4 * Double Vision. Sculptural, abstract cut-outs playfully deceive the eye and inspire a sense of curiosity. Teal Equal parts Steel Equal parts Super-Charged Treatment 2 parts Green 3 parts Midnight 1 part Super-Charged Treatment 2 parts Bordeaux 2 parts Steel 1 part Super-Charged Treatment 2 parts * does not require intermixing with developer

11 LOOK 1 PLACEMENTS Sectioning Phase 2 - Formula 2 Phase 2 - Formula 3 Phase 2 - Formula 4 TECHNIQUE Tip Start in bottom panel above the ear by taking a horizontal diagonal back section on the right side. Apply Phase 1 Formula 1 from the base to the ends. Lightly feather onto ends making sure not to fully saturate. Working side to side up the head, pivot with each section until the sections are vertical above the ear. Continue working vertically to the natural part on both sides. Once complete, work color into ends and saturate. If hair is shorter or dense, pull through in initial application. The model s ends were left out for control due to length Shampoo with Color Protect Post Color Shampoo. Do not condition the hair. Blow-dry hair to prepare for Phase 2 color application. Part hair vertically from apex to ear. Find pre-lightened pieces and take ¼" horizontal diagonal back sections. Apply Phase 2 Formula 1 to the base on each section. Alternate Phase 2 Formulas 2-4 on pre-lightened hair using vertical strokes to blend colors and create unique applications per section, while making sure to fully saturate Move to middle panel. Follow the round of the head using horizontal diagonal back sections alternating Phase 1 Formulas 2 and 3. Apply Phase 1 Formula 2 with low elevation and strong tension.combine combing and hand-painting techniques. Mirror on the opposite side. To complete middle panel, apply Phase 1 Formula 1 to the base. Move to top panel. Apply Phase 1 Formula 1 to the base, feathering from underneath using horizontal diagonal back sections. Apply Phase 1 Formula 4 from the mid-lengths to the ends. Blend where the formulas meet. Process for 45 minutes. 14 Once complete, process for 30 minutes. Rinse hair with warm water and condition with The Detangler. Tools of the Trade The artists styled this look using Awapuhi Wild Ginger HydroCream Whip, Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil, Neuro Grip, Express Ion Round XL brush, Neuro Smooth, and Awapuhi Wild Ginger Texturizing Sea Spray. Get the Look For full- length videos, step-by-step guides and educational support, visit paulmitchellpro.com

12 LOOK 2 AURORA PASTEL WITH A TWIST Using a balayage technique to infuse depth and ribbons of light into the hair, Aurora introduces a muted take on pastel tones. Inspired by the natural phenomenon of the Northern Lights, this look is a beautiful balance of restraint and impact

13 LOOK 2 - AURORA Colorist Colin Caruso "The Aurora color technique gives the traditional color guest an opportunity to experience non-traditional color, allowing guests to express themselves in a unique way all while maintaining a level of sophistication." Haircutter Jason Reyes I knew I d be working with a look that had movement in the hair and with a stronger shape. Stylist Noogie Thai The effortless volume of this style enhances the cut and color. It reminds of me of Julia Roberts and her timeless, wavy blowouts. BEFORE COLOR APPLICATION Blonding Formula Pre-lighten using 1 scoop Skylight Clay Lightener 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) 40 volume FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 9PN (9/80) 3VR (3/64) Pea size 10 volume 8C (8/34) Clear Booster Gold Intensifier (0/33) 1" 10 volume 2 oz. (60 g/ml) FORMULA 3 FORMULA 4 FORMULA 5 * The Demi 9G (9/03) The Demi 9V (9/6) Processing Liquid 2 oz. (60 g/ml) 8A (8/1) Blue Intensifier (0/88) 1" 10 volume Mint Condition 1 part Green 1 drop Tropical Blue 1 drop * does not require intermixing with developer. Frame of Reference. An unexpected composition leads you right inside the image for a deeper look

14 LOOK 2 PLACEMENTS TECHNIQUE Start on the side of the head. Take the first section on the bottom panel. Following the natural round of the head, take ½" sections and paint on Skylight using a sketching technique. Continue moving up, following the round of the head taking diagnal back sections. As you move through the head shape, the section will start to reach the front of the head. Apply Skylight as needed through the sections. Continue using the sketching technique. Once complete, move to opposite side of the head and mirror previous side. Tools of the Trade The artists styled this look using Invisiblewear Volume Whip, Invisiblewear Memory Shaper, Neuro Dry, Express Ion Round L brush, and Invisiblewear Orbit Hairspray. Get the Look For full- length videos, step-by-step guides and educational support, visit paulmitchellpro.com. Tip This is an organic placement. Section size and placement may vary based on guests hair density, haircut and desired end result. Determine where placing lightener will bring out the shape of the haircut. 4 5 Once complete with both sides, a triangle section will be left. Within that section take diagonal sections until you run out of hair. Continue using the sketching technique. Process up to 50 minutes or until desired lightness is achieved. Tip Saturation will determine your levels of lift. Heavier saturation of the hair will create more lift. 6 Follow the natural round of the head taking ½" sections. Alternate Formulas 1-5 on pre-lightened pieces for a unique color blend

15 LOOK 3 AMETHYST GEMSTONE-INSPIRED SPECTRUM Jewel tones intensify an already statement-making head of curls in Amethyst. Flaunting an array of soft violet hues within the broad color palette, the artists designed the shades to harmonize with the model s natural hair texture

16 LOOK 3 - AMETHYST Colorist Heather Kaanoi After swatching a palette of deep plum, lilac and periwinkle, I chose ice mint as a wild card shade to expose the different intensities of the violets. The end result resembled an Amethyst gem. Haircutter Julian Perlingiero We knew we wanted expansion with the curls and that s one of the exciting things about them you can really build big, bouncy shapes. Stylist Noogie Thai This look is a celebration of perfect natural curls. I drew from Solange Knowles and her shapely curls. BEFORE COLOR APPLICATION FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 6V (6/6) Violet Intensifier (0/66) 1" 10 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) Tropical Blue 1 part Pink Flamingo 1 part Steel 1 part 9G (9/3) Green Intensifier (0/22) 1" 5 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) FORMULA 4 The Demi 3VR (3/64) 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) The Demi 9V (9/6) 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) The Demi 9PA (9/81) 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) Processing Liquid 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) * does not require intermixing with developer. Increased Perspective. Capturing the complexity of the cut and color from multiple angles

17 LOOK 3 PLACEMENTS TECHNIQUE Create a Mohawk section starting at the recession and following the parietal ridge until reaching the occipital bone. Mirror on the opposite side, and connect with a horizontal section at the occipital bone. Create a section at the apex to split the Mohawk section into two segments for control. Alternate from right to left taking diagonal back sections. Weave the front hairline and apply lightener 1"-2" away from the scalp through the ends. As you move through the Mohawk section, start to take ½" sections and slice off the top. Apply lightener 1"-2" off the scalp using a feathering stroke to create diffusion. Create a second slice of hair and add it into the foil so that each foil has back-to-back slices. When complete with the first segment, move to the back segment. Continue taking diagonal back sections and back-to-back slices applying lightener 1"-2" away from the scalp. Once complete, let the hair process until level 9-10 is reached. Take four standard segments. Take horizontal diagonal back sections and alternate Formulas 1-4 on each pre-lightened section to create dimension and variation of tones within the hair. Tools of the Trade The artists styled this look using Invisiblewear Boomerang Restyling Mist, Invisiblewear Volume Whip, Neuro Prime HeatCTRL Blowout Primer, and Neuro Dry. Get the Look For full- length videos, step-by-step guides and educational support, visit paulmitchellpro.com. Tip Use multiple formulas on one strand of hair for seamless, creative color. Use one formula on a strand to create stronger dimension

18 LOOK 4 SUN FLARE FLASH OF GOLDEN COPPER Like a magnificent solar flare created on the surface of the sun, this look embodies that intensity with flashes of bright copper and rich red. Sun Flare is designed to reignite your passion for short shapes and brilliant color

19 LOOK 4 - SUN FLARE Colorist Irene Toledo I was inspired by Scott and Linda's Block Coloring, so I used a bold placement of diagonal panels alternating between copper and red for a seamless color blend at the scalp. This technique brings dimension to Fernie s fresh, playful haircut. Haircutter Fernie Andong My goal was to incorporate Paul Mitchell s tape cutting technique. He would section the hair with tape, then clip and cut on the tape, so the tape is holding the hair. It s pretty cool. Stylist Noogie Thai The true versatility of a pixie comes to life in this strong, short cut. I wanted to accentuate the juxtaposition of it being strong on one side and soft on the other. BEFORE COLOR APPLICATION FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 8C (8/34) 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Orange Intensifier (0/34) 40 volume 3.5 oz. (105 g/ml) 5R (5/4) 2 oz. (60 g/ml) Red Intensifier (0/44) 40 volume 3 oz. (90 g/ml) Transformative Nature. Blurring the lines between past and present, edges and curves, to mirror the intricacy of the look itself

20 LOOK 4 PLACEMENTS Formula 1 Formula 2 Numbers within diagram correspond to color application sections. TECHNIQUE Divide the hair into three segments. Starting on the left side of the head, apply Formula 1 to section one. To secure the hair, apply color to foils. Start from the scalp to ends and allow the hair to live in one foil. Repeat Formula 1 on section two. Move to section three at the top back panel and apply Formula 2 from the scalp to ends directing backward to keep the hair away from the face. Work with one foil within that section. Apply Formula 1 to section four directing it backward. Move color saturation mid-shaft through the ends to prevent color from bleeding section to section. Apply Formula 2 on section five. Apply Formula 1 on section six over-directing backward. Position the color brush vertically and lightly feather the color on the perimeter. Elevate all foils and apply Formula 2 to the bottom. For control, use a comb to hold the hair that is next to the color. Color blend with your finger where each section meets to soften the transition on the regrowth. Tools of the Trade The artists styled this look using Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil, Quick Slip, Neuro Dry, Neuro Smooth, and Awapuhi Wild Ginger Shine Spray Get the Look For full- length videos, step-by-step guides and educational support, visit paulmitchellpro.com

21 FAVORITE FORMULAS The 20/20 artists crafted alternative formulas for their collection looks as inspiration. Use them to adapt the color techniques with different tonal families. AURORA on Brunette Hair CAMOUFLAGE on Blonde Hair Color Application - Phase 1 FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 FORMULA 1 - BASE COLOR FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 The Demi 9PA (9/81) Processing Liquid The Demi 6VR (6/64) Processing Liquid The Demi 9A (9/1) Processing Liquid Color Application - Phase 2 Apply mid shaft through ends of middle panel 5N (5/0) 6RB (6/47) 20 volume 2 oz. (60 g/ml) 5RO (5/43) 5NB (5/07) 20 volume 2 oz. (60 g/ml) 3VR (3/64) 20 volume FORMULA 1 * FORMULA 2 * FORMULA 3 * FORMULA 4 Pink Flamingo Yellow Diluter 2 oz. (50 g/ml) Blue 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) Pink 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) Diluter 3 oz. (90 g/ml) 7PN (7/80) 20 volume AMETHYST in Rosé Hues Apply to pre-lightened highlights SUN FLARE FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 Base Color: For neutral, cooler tones Base Color: For deeper red dimension Base Color: For gray coverage FORMULA 1 FORMULA 2 FORMULA 3 8VR (8/46) 9G (9/3) 0.5 oz. (30 g/ml) FORMULA 3 * 5 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) The Demi 6VR (6/64) FORMULA 4 The Demi 9R (9/4) Processing Liquid 2 oz. (60 g/ml) 5MT (5/2) 20 volume 6R (6/4) 30 volume 5N (5/0) 20 volume Peachy Keen POP XG Bordeaux ¼ oz. (15 g/ml) UTV (UTV/6) 10A (10/1) 0.5 oz. (15 g/ml) Blue Intensifier (0/22) 1 dot 5 volume 1.5 oz. (45 g/ml) * does not require intermixing with developer

22 Colin Caruso THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS WIDE OPEN. There s a level of enthusiasm for hair color from clients like never before. As a kid, I remember coloring my hair to stand out, now people are coloring their hair to fit in. Ryan Belmonte THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS PERSONALIZED. Everything around us is becoming more bespoke and less cookie-cutter in style. In the future, guests will have more say in their hair color and be more open to doing things differently more individualized. Jason Reyes THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS BOLD. More colors are being accepted, creating more styling flexibility and business opportunity. In the future, I see a shift from natural colors to bolder colors. Noogie Thai THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS WEARABLE. We re going to see very wearable color with unique and personal accents. Chelsea Litchfield THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS SOPHISTICATED. I love that vivid colors are so in right now. We re actually witnessing an evolution from color as a wild and crazy statement to a sophisticated one. Heather Kaanoi THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS IN DEMAND. Today, even 10-year-old kids have pops of color in their hair. Imagine 20 years later and that now 30-year-old is going to be devoted to the salon and will expect hair color. Julian Perlingiero THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS NATURAL. We re going to see more natural color tones formulated to complement a guest s skin tone. In the future, expect more sophisticated colors, but with exciting, modern placements. Irene Toledo THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS BRIGHT. Every day, more and more of my guests are stepping outside of their comfort zone and requesting visually stimulating color. There will be a greater understanding and appreciation for expressing your personality through your hair. Fernie Andong THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOR IS EXPECTED. Color is going to be expected with every single service. In the future, guests will feel odd not having color in their hair

23 As hairdressers, we re all visionaries, and true visionaries can see the future. Being a visionary is the ability to see into the future and recognize what s new from a trend point of view. It s also mixing color in the salon and knowing how it s going to turn out for your guest. That level of accuracy and creativity is what I consider having 20/20 vision. As we celebrate 20 years of professional hair color, I hope this anniversary book serves not only as an inspiration, but also a call to be bold visionaries pushing the future of color forward. Robert Cromeans John Paul Mitchell Systems Global Artistic Director & Business Director 44

24 As hairdressers, we re all visionaries, and true visionaries can see the future. Being a visionary is the ability to see into the future and recognize what s new from a trend point of view. It s also mixing color in the salon and knowing how it s going to turn out for your guest. That level of accuracy and creativity is what I consider having 20/20 vision. As we celebrate 20 years of professional hair color, I hope this anniversary book serves not only as an inspiration, but also a call to be bold visionaries pushing the future of color forward. Robert Cromeans John Paul Mitchell Systems Global Artistic Director & Business Director

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