Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

Transcription

1 Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

2 Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry Edited by D.F. WILLIAMS Environment and Quality Assurance Manager Givaudan-Roure UK Surrey UK and W.H. SCHMITT Vice President, R&D Chesebrough Ponds, Inc Connecticut USA SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, LLC

3 First edition 1992 Springer Science+ Business Media N ew York 1992 Originally published by Blackie Academic & Professional in 1992 Typeset in 10;12 pt Times by Thomson Press (India) Ltd, New Delhi ISBN lO Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the UK Copyright Designs and Patents Act, 1988, this publication may not be reproduced, stored, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in writing of the publishers, or in the case of reprographic reproduction only in accordance with the terms of the licences issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency in the UK, or in accordance with the terms of licences issued by the appropriate Reproduction Rights Organization outside the UK. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the terms stated here should be sent to the publishers at the Glasgow address printed on this page. The publisher makes no representation, express or implied, with regard to the accuracy of the information contained in this book and cannot accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data Chemistry and technology of the cosmetics and toiletries indus edited by D.F. Williams, W.H. Schmitt. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN DOI / Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. 1. Williams, D.F. II. Schmitt W.H. TP983.C '.5~dc20 ISBN (ebook) CIP x. Printed on permanent acid-free text paper, manufactured in accordance with the proposed ANSI/NISOZ X and ANSIZ

4 Preface This book is the result of a group of development scientists feeling that there was an urgent need for a reference work that would assist chemists in understanding the science involved in the development of new products. The approach is to inform in a way that allows and encourages the reader to develop his or her own creativity in working with marketing colleagues on the introduction of new products. Organised on a product category basis, emphasis is placed on formulation, selection of raw materials, and the technology of producing the products discussed. Performance considerations, safety, product liability and all aspects of quality are covered. Regulations governing the production and sale of cosmetic products internationally are described, and sources for updated information provided. Throughout the book, reference is made to consumer pressure and environmental issues - concerns which the development scientist and his or her marketing counterpart ignore at their own, and their employer's peril. In recent years, many cosmetic fragrances and toiletry products have been converted from aerosols to mechanically pressurised products or sprays, and these are described along with foam products such as hair conditioning mousses. The information set out in the following pages has been acquired by the hard work and enthusiasm of a number of international authors who hold senior positions within the industry and it has been my privilege to work with William H. Schmitt in bringing together their accumulated knowledge. Information presented is given in good faith and the greatest possible care has been taken to ensure that it is correct. No warranty can, however, be given on fitness for a particular use or freedom from patent infringement. All the information given is for consideration, study and verification. Tt is hoped that the book will inspire newcomers to progress within, and advance, the industry that has provided me with a livelihood and much enjoyment over many years. D.F.W.

5 Contributors Mr J.L. Chester Product Application Manager, Croda Chemieals Ltd, Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goule, North Humberside DN4 9AA, UK Mr J. Cunningham Vice-President Technical Services, Cosmolab, 1100 Garrett Road, Lewisberg, Tennessee 37091, USA Mr A. Dallimore Perfumery Director, Phoenix Fragrances Ltd, Unit 1, Lawson Industrial Park, Broadbridge Heath, West Sussex RHI2 3JR, UK Mr J. Dupuis Mr W. Dupuy Technical Officer, Colipa, Rue de la Loi 223 (Bte.2) B 1040, Brussels, Belgium Director, Total Quality, Rimmel International, Carlton Road, Ashford, Kent, UK Mr J. Knowlton Principal Scientist, Johnson and Johnson Ltd, Southampton Road, Cosham, Portsmouth P06 4RL, UK Dr M. Pader Mr W.H. Schmitt Mr J.J. Shipp President, Consumer Products Development Resources Inc., 1358 Sussex Road, Teaneck 07666, New Jersey, USA Senior Vice President, Research and Development, Chesebrough Ponds USA Co., Trumbull Corpora te Park, Merrett Boulevarde, Trumbull, Connecticut 06611, USA Technical Director, Marcus Ellis Ltd, Unit 11, First Avenue, Deeside Industrial Park, Clwyd CH5 2NU, UK Mr E. Spiess Technical Marketing Manager, Akzo Chemieals GmbH, Research Center, Postfach , D-5160 Ouren, Germany Mr. M.J. WiIlcox Mr D.F. Williams Technical Director, The Standard Soap Co. Ltd, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE6 5HG, UK Environment and Quality Assurance Manager, Givaudan-Roure UK, Godstone Road, Whyteleafe, Surrey, UK

6 Contents 1 Raw materials 1 E. SPIESS 1.1 Introduction I 1.2 Basic surfactants I Alkyl ether sulfates I Alkyl sulfates (X-Olefin sulfonates Other basic surfactants Mild anionic surfactants Sulfosuccinates Cocoyl isethionates Acyl amides 7 \.3.4 Alkyl ether carboxylates Magnesium surfactants Alkyl phosphates Amphoteric surfactants 9 \.4.1 Alkyl betaines IO \.4.2 Alkylamido betaines IO Acylamphoglycinates and acylamphapropionates l Amine oxides Non-ionic surfactants \ Ethoxylated products Alkyl polyglycosides Shampoo additives \ Thickeners Foam stabilizers Pearlescent agents Conditioning agents Cationic surfactants Monoalkyl quaternaries Dialkyl quaternaries \ Trialkyl quaternaries Benzyl quaternaries Ethoxylated quaternaries Oil components \ Mineraloil 20 \.8.2 Natural oils Synthetic oils Waxes Natural waxes Synthetic waxes Silicone oils Cream ba ses Fatty a1cohols Polyol esters Fatty acids 26

7 X CONTENTS 1.12 Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsiliers Anionic O/W emulsiliers Cationic O/W emulsiliers Non-ionic O/W emulsiliers Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsiliers Single W /0 emulsiliers Lanolin derivatives Absorption bases W /0 stabilizers Humectants 29 l.l5 Aerosol propellants 30 l.l5.1 Hydrocarbons Dimethylether 30 References 30 2 Hair-care products 32 J.J. SHIPP 2.1 Introduction Hair: structure and chemistry Structure of hair keratin Shampoos Detergents Thickeners and foam stabilisers Perfumes Preservatives Opaciliers and pearlisers Conditioning agents Colours and colour fading Other additives Conditioners Cationic surfactants Cationic polymers and other active ingredients Bodying agents Auxiliary emulsiliers Oil components Thickeners Perfumes Preservatives Colours Manufacture Clear conditioners Hair thickeners Leave-on conditioners 'Hot oils. tonics and other conditioners Styling aids Hairsprays Setting lotions Other styling aids in spray form Hair gels Styling creams and glazes Hair oils/brilliantines/pomades/styling waxes Hair creams Permanent waving Neutralisation Bleaches 85

8 CONTENTS XI 2.14 Hair dyes Temporary dyes Semi-permanent colourants Permanent hair dyes Other hair dyes Dye removers Product evaluation and testing Stability testing Claims justification Prod uct safet y Summary 95 References 95 3 Skin-eare produets 99 W.H. SCHMITT 3.1 Introduction Anatomy and physiology of the skin Epidermis Dermis Test methods Efficacy testing Formulation Formula information Consumer testing Stability testing Microbiological testing Manufacturing trials Safet y testing Regulatory and environmental requirements Skin cleansers Anhydrous oily cleansers Water-in-oil emulsions: cold creams Oil-in-water emulsions: cleansing milks Fatted mild syndet foaming bars and cleansers Super fatted bar soaps Astringents/toners Bar soaps Particulate scrubs Moisturizers AII-purpose creams Hand and body lotions Hand and body creams Facial moisturizer lotions Facial moisturizer creams: night creams Anti-ageing products Sunscreen products Solar radiation Sunscreen chemicals Testing Sunscrccn formulations Acne Sebaceous gland Acne nomenclature Acne grades Treatment 137 References 138

9 XII CONTENTS 4 Color cosmetics J. CUNNINGHAM 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Lip color Lipsticks Lip glosses Lip liners 4.3 Nail polish Consumer expectations Formulation Manufacture 4.4 Face make-up Consumer expectations Face powders Liquid foundations Blushers 4.5 Eye make-up Eyeshadow Mascara Eyeliners 4.6 Color coating 4.7 General considerations Further reading Baby care J. KNOWLTON 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Specific basic requirements for baby products 5.3 Product types and their presentation Baby powders Lotions and creams Soaps Hair products Bath products Moussed products Wipes and tissues Oils Perfumes and colognes 5.4 Raw materials for baby products 5.5 Developmental pathways Formulation development Practical requirements 5.6 Product evaluation Laboratory evaluation Mother and baby panels Consumer research 5.7 Product safety requirement 5.8 Product preservation 5.9 Product stability 5.10 Manufacture and quality control Manufacture Quality control Reference Further reading

10 CONTENTS Xlll 6 Ethnic products 187 J.L. CHESTER 6.1 Introduction Hair structures Skin characteristics Hair products Relaxing and restyling products Hair pomades and grooming aids Skin products Raw material selection- factors for consideration Emulsification systems General practical considerations 208 Further reading Dental products 210 M. PADER 7.1 Introduction The human dentition and its environment Teeth and associated oral structures Saliva and crevicular fluid Oral accretions and conditions Role of oral hygiene Dental pellic\e Dental plaque Dental calculus (tartar) Periodontal diseases Dental stain Dental hypersensitivity Oral malodor The toothbrush and other mechanical aids Toothbrush function Toothbrush construction and design Toothbrush efficacy Toothbrush safety Other mechanica1 aids Active agents Introduction Fluoride Anti-plaquejanti-gingivitis agents Anti-calculus agents Desensitizing dentifrices Dentifrices Functions General principles Basic dentifrice ingredients Flavor and cosmetic attributes Formulation principles Efficacy of dentifrice as a dosage form Dentifrice manufacture Dentifrice packaging Oral rinses Function Dosage forms and formtriations Pre-brushing dental rinse Manufacture and packaging 253

11 XIV CONTENTS 7.8 Specialty products Tooth whiteners Products for the edentulous 254 References Perfumery 258 A. DALLIMORE 8.1 Introduction Fragrance- a definition Role of fragrance Perfumery raw materials Natural perfumery raw materials Synthetic perfumery raw materials (aroma chemicals) Deve10pment of a fragrance The brief The creative process Evaluation and marketing of the new creation The current market in fine fragrance The trickle-down ettect Odour types Technical performance of perfumes Stability testing Compounding Quality control Special additives Glossary of odour descriptors 273 Further reading Personal hygiene products 275 M.J. WrLLCOX 9.1 Introduction Soap and other solid bathing products Toilet soaps Shaving soaps Transparent/translucent soaps Synthetic detergent/combination bars Bath salts/bath crystals/bath cubes Liquid bathing and showering products Foam baths Bath oils Shower gels After-bath and after-shower conditioners Antiperspirants and deodorants Antiperspirants Deodorants Performance testing Chemicals suppliers 300 References Quality, safety and legislation 302 J. DUPUIS and W. DUPUY 10.1 Introduction to quality Definition of quality Inspection 303

12 CONTENTS 10.4 Prevention 10.5 Total quality Product design Quality assurance Manufacturing processes and technology Cost of quality Human and organisational aspects 10.6 The new thinking 10.7 Quality standards and guides Links between ISO 9000 and total quality 10.8 Legislation Historical development Need for regulation Self-regulation Regulations in the US Regulations in Japan Regulations in Europe Regulations in other countries 10.9 General considerations Environmental impact Animal protection and rights Definition as cosmetic or drug Product Iiability References Further reading Appendices xv Appendix I Appendix 11 Index List of suppliers Useful addresses