Chemistry and Technology

Transcription

1 Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry Edited by D.F. WILLIAMS Environment and Quality Assurance Manager Givaudan-Roure UK Surrey UK and W.H. SCHMITT Vice President, R&D Chesebrough Ponds, Inc Connecticut USA BLACKIE ACADEMIC & PROFESSIONAL An Imprint of Chapman & Hall London Glasgow New York Tokyo Melbourne Madras

2 Contents 1 Raw materials E. SPIESS 1.1 1ntroduction 1.2 ] Jasic surfactants.2.1 Alkyl ether sulfates Alkyl sulfates a-olefin sulfonates.2.4 Other basic surfactants 1.3 Vfild anionic surfactants ,\mphoteric surfactants Sulfosuccinates Cocoyl isethionates Acyl amides Alkyl ether carboxylates Magnesium surfactants Alkyl phosphates Son-ionic surfactants ! Shampoo additives Alkyl betaines Alkylamido betaines Acylamphoglycinates and acylamphapropionates Amine oxides Ethoxylated products Alkyl polyglycosides < ^ationic surfactants ( 3il components ' Waxes ijilicom; oils 1.11 ("ream Thickeners Foam stabilizers Pearlescent agents Conditioning agents Monoalkyl quaternaries Dialkyl quaternaries Trialkyl quaternaries Benzyl quaternaries Ethoxylated quaternaries Mineral oil Natural oils Synthetic oils Natural waxes Synthetic waxes bases Fatty alcohols Polyol esters Fatty acids

3 CONTENTS 1.12 Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers Anionic O/W emulsifiers Cationic O/W emulsifiers Non-ionic O/W emulsifiers Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers Single W/O emulsifiers Lanolin derivatives Absorption bases W/O stabilizers Humectants Aerosol propellants Hydrocarbons Dimethylether 30 References 30 Hair-care products J.J. ISHIPP Hair: structure and chemistry Structure of hair keratin Shampoos Conditioners Styling Setting Detergents Thickeners and foam stabilisers Perfumes Preservatives Opacifiers and pearlisers Conditioning agents Colours and colour fading Other additives Cationic surfactants Cationic polymers and other active ingredients Bodying agents Auxiliary emulsifiers Oil components Thickeners Perfumes Preservatives Colours Manufacture Clear conditioners Hair thickeners Leave-on conditioners 'Hot oils', tonics and other conditioners aids Hairsprays lotions Other sstyling aids in spray form Hair gels Styling creams and glazes Hair oils/brilliantines/pomades/styling waxes Hair creams Permanent waving Neutralisation Bleaches

4 CONTENTS XI 2.14 Hair dyes Temporary dyes Semi-permanent colourants Permanent hair dyes Other hair dyes Dye removers Product evaluation and testing Stability testing Claims justification Product safety Summary 95 References 95 Skin-care products 99 W.H. SCHMITT Anatomy and physiology of the skin Epidermis Dermis Test methods Efficacy testing Formulation Formula information Consumer testing Stability testing Microbiological testing Manufacturing trials Safety testing Skin c:leansers Moisturizers Regulatory and environmental requirements Anhydrous oily cleansers Water-in-oil emulsions: cold creams Oil-in-water emulsions: cleansing milks Fatted mild syndet foaming bars and cleansers Super fatted bar soaps Astringents/toners Bar soaps Particulate scrubs All-purpose creams Hand and body lotions Hand and body creams Facial moisturizer lotions Facial moisturizer creams: night creams 3.7 Anti-ageing products 3.8 Sunscreen products Acne References Solar radiation Sunscreen chemicals Testing Sunscreen formulations Sebaceous gland Acne nomenclature Acne grades Treatment

5 Xll CONTENTS 4 Color cosmetics 142 J. CUNNINGHAM Lip color Lipsticks Lip glosses Lip liners Nail polish Consumer expectations Formulation Manufacture Face make-up Consumer expectations Face powders Liquid foundations Blushers Eye make-up Eyeshadow Mascara Eyeliners Color coating General considerations 169 Further reading 170 Baby care 171 J. KNOWLTON Specific basic requirements for baby products Product types and their presentation Baby powders Lotions and creams Soaps Hair products Bath products Moussed products Wipes and tissues Oils Perfumes and colognes Raw materials for baby products Developmental pathways Formulation development Practical requirements Product evaluation Laboratory evaluation Mother and baby panels Consumer research Product safety requirement Product preservation Product stability Manufacture and quality control Manufacture Quality control 186 Reference 186 Further reading 186

6 CONTENTS Xlll Ethnic products 187 J.L. CHESTER Hair structures Skin characteristics Hair products Relaxing and restyling products Hair pomades and grooming aids Skin products Raw material selection factors for consideration Emulsification systems General practical considerations 208 Further reading Dental products M. PADER The human dentition and its environment Teeth and associated oral structures Saliva and crevicular fluid Oral isecretions and conditions Role of oral hygiene Dental pellicle Dental plaque Dental calculus (tartar) Periodontal diseases Dental stain Dental hypersensitivity Oral malodor The toothbrush and other mechanical aids Activi Toothbrush function Toothbrush construction and design Toothbrush efficacy Toothbrush safety Other mechanical aids : agents Dentifrices Oral Fluoride Anti-plaque/anti-gingivitis agents Anti-calculus agents Desensitizing dentifrices Functions General principles Basic dentifrice ingredients Flavor and cosmetic attributes Formulation principles Efficacy of dentifrice as a dosage form Dentifrice manufacture Dentifrice packaging rinses Function Dosage forms and formulations Pre-brushing dental rinse Manufacture and packaging

7 CONTENTS 7.8 Specialty products Tooth whiteners Products for the edentulous 254 References Perfumery A. DALLIMORE Fragrance a definition Role of fragrance Perfumery raw materials Natural perfumery raw materials Synthetic perfumery raw materials (aroma chemicals) Development of a fragrance The brief The creative process Evaluation and marketing of the new creation The current market in fine fragrance The trickle-down effect Odour types Technical performance of perfumes Stability testing Compounding Quality control Special additives Glossary of odour descriptors Further reading Personal hygiene products 275 M.J. WILLCOX Soap and other solid bathing products Toilet soaps Shaving soaps Transparent/translucent soaps Synthetic detergent/combination bars Bath salts/bath crystals/bath cubes Liquid bathing and showering products Foam baths Bath oils Shower gels After-bath and after-shower conditioners References Antiperspirants and deodorants Antiperspirants Deodorants Performance testing Chemicals suppliers Quality, safety and legislation 302 J. DUPUIS and W. DUPUY 10.1 to quality Definition of quality Inspection 303

8 Prevention Total ijuality Product design Quality assurance Manufacturing processes and technology Cost of quality Human and organisational aspects The new thinking Quality standards and guides Links between ISO 9000 and total quality Legislation Historical development Need for regulation Self-regulation Regulations in the US Regulations in Japan Regulations in Europe Regulations in other countries General considerations References Further reading CONTENTS Environmental impact Animal protection and rights Definition as cosmetic or drug Product liability XV Appendices 323 Appendix I List of suppliers 323 Appendix II Useful addresses 325 Index 327