Cosmetic Ingredients

Transcription

1 It is a matter of Principles Cosmetic Ingredients

2 InnovActive Ingredients PRINCIPIUM is a Swiss company that develops ingredients and technologies for the beauty and health industries (cosmetics, nutraceutics and pharmaceutics). GET THE FULL SPECTRUM! In a context of growing pressure on legislation, marketing and technology, we provide tested solutions with a specific philosophy. We aim at revealing the full spectrum of activity of raw materials known for their safety that are still to deliver their full potential through proper technological approach. A NETWORK OF EXPERTS Our technological expertise is built on a network of specialized researchers and entities coordinated through a scientific board to build specific projects for specific solutions. OUR PROMISE Our mission is to guarantee efficacy results through tested performance products selected on their capacity to Let us reveal a new SPECTRUM of EFFICACY reproduce a targeted activity. OUR DEMONSTRATION We guarantee active efficacy, not just quality. Our ingredients are tested for their biological efficacy, at every batch. 1

3 Safety Efficacy Safety and efficacy are the major concerns of Principium. Hence the R&D motto word: Saf-e-cacy. New ingredients in development go through a severe screening of in-vitro, exvitro, in-vivo tests not only for the efficacy, but also for the safety parameters. We provide complete dossier for every principia whether it is from natural, chemical or biotechnological origin. We guarantee active efficacy, not just quality. Quality control is an indispensable tool to insure a standardized ingredient, but it does not necessary reflect the biological performance of every batch of a product. This is especially true in the case of natural compounds that present a variation of composition throughout the year and seasons. Our natural ingredients especially use soft technologies, avoiding solvents and focusing on reproducing the natural spectrum of active components occurring in nature. We introduced an efficacy control in our production process to insure not only the quality, but also the efficacy that will be perceived by final consumers. The reproducibility of a characteristic test chosen during the development is therefore available on the specifications of our principia. We insist on presenting clear, transparent data to allow an independent choice. Our methods, test results and conditions of experimentation are available in our documentation. We also bring fresh approaches to apprehend scientific data. 2 We can therefore GUARANTEE efficacy... at every batch. PRINCIPIA = Active Ingredient + Efficacy Control 3

4 HiTech Philosophy Develop and adapt the benefits of research and science to the beauty and health industries HiTech lines focus on pure performances, HiTech ingredients: Aurora (p6) Difference (p8) Cube 3 (p10) Signal-10 (p12) SkinVeil 500 (p14) using only low impact technologies, reaching for the highest level of purity, and controlling the effective activity, with a focus on biological benefits, beyond the only structural or chemical characteristics. It s science and performance, from stateof-the-art technologies. 4 5

5 Hi Tech Aurora Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare A new day for your skin It usually takes around 21 days for Throughout evolution, our skin has Aurora improves the appearances of the - Skin regeneration the cells produced at the base of our epidermis (stratum basale) to differentiate learned to perceive a state of stress when recognizing by-products of stressed skin by providing: - a fresher look - Repairing effect and migrate up to the upper part (stratum attacked skin components. One of the - a better skin, more compact - Skin cohesion corneum) to be finally exfoliated. As skin ages, the cycles of regeneration of major activating signals is therefore the degradation of the large hyaluronic acid - a healthier, more hydrated skin - a skin with better resistance to - Skin redensification epidermis cells are deregulated. Changes in thickness consequently appear, and our molecules in much smaller ones. mechanic actions (such as shaving) - a skin resistant to external aggressions - Skin moisturization skin looses its suppleness, its elasticity. - a younger, renewed epidermis with healthier, tonified aspect Aurora irreversibly binds to cell membrane receptors CD44, and induces a reactivation of the cell metabolism to help Aurora is a specific biotechnological fraction that targets skin regeneration. It is a very small molecular weight sodium hyaluronate, designed to reach the perfect balance between skin penetration and skin activation. fighting environmental stress, through mitosis and cell proliferation. Aurora optimizes skin regeneration cycles through: a proliferation of cells synthesizing skin components a stimulation of skin reparative processes an improvement of global epidermis health an improvement of skin cohesion Very small size Regenerates coherent epidermis 6 7

6 Hi Tech Difference Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare A difference you can feel Mature or aging skins are directly related Sodium Hyaluronate is a linear polymer Difference is a full-spectrum biotechno- - Anti wrinkle to the appearance of deeper wrinkles. Internal oxidative processes that affect characterized by an ensemble of parameters in which molecular weight logical fraction of sodium hyaluronate that targets long-term anti-aging effects. - Anti aging cells integrity deregulate the rejuvenation plays an important role. - Skin re-densifying cycles. Integr Hyal Difference is a biotechnological However, Integr Hyal products are based on a spectrum of molecule lengths. As Difference improves skin aspect (less - Skin re-moisturizing ingredient that reproduces a specific spectrum of molecular weight, with a a direct result, they do not focus on a specific molecular weight, but rather wrinkles, smoothed, more elastic, hydrated and rejuvenated), skin moisturiza- - Skin smoothing targeted focus on skins at a particular on the efficacy of a range of fractions tion, skin barrier effect, and also helps to physiological step (homeostasis or working in synergy, just as naturally diminish the consequences of oxidation. stress). found in our body. Difference decreases skin wrinkles, Treated skins react in a more adapted increases skin elasticity, smoothness, manner, thanks to an evolutive interaction wrinkleness, diminishes roughness, scaliness & number of wrinkles. between matrix hyaluronans and their cell receptor CD44. This adaptive answer Global epidermis health is improved, like gives to the cell a capacity to sense its moisturization, barrier effect and skin microenvironment and respond in return Targets wrinkles aspect. (by signal transduction or by cytoskeletal dynamics regulation). The benefit for final consumers? A better Immediate moisturization Long-term efficacy effect linked to a more specific cellular answer. 8 9

7 Hi Tech Sodio ialuronato Cube 3 Efficacy, to the power 3 di bassissimo peso molecolare Tired or aging skins are directly related to Sodium Hyaluronate is a linear polymer Cube 3 is a full-spectrum biotechnologi- - Anti-aging the appearance of surface irregularities and small wrinkles. Besides internal factors characterized by an ensemble of parameters in which molecular weight cal fraction of sodium hyaluronate that targets short-term anti-aging effects. - Anti-wrinkle (genetics, lifestyle), other parameters such plays an important role. - Lifting effect as dehydration or loss of elasticity have to be considered. However, Integr Hyal products are based on a spectrum of molecule lengths. As Cube 3 improves skin aspect (immediate - Skin smoothing Integr Hyal Cube 3 is a biotechnological ingredient that reproduces a specific a direct result, they do not focus on a specific molecular weight, but rather lifting, smoothed, healthier, more hydrated, re-structured) and could enhance - Hydration spectrum of molecular weight, with a on the efficacy of a range of fractions formula activity. - Actives penetration targeted focus on skins at a particular physiological step (homeostasis or stress). working in synergy, just as naturally found in our body. enhancement Treated skins react in a more adapted manner, thanks to an evolutive interaction Cube 3 shows: between matrix hyaluronans and their a quick lifting effect cell receptor CD44. This adaptive answer elasticity, smoothness, wrinkleness, depth gives to the cell a capacity to sense its of wrinkles, synthesis of neo-elastin, microenvironment and respond in return improvement of skin aspects; a quick penetration of actives enhanced skin penetration of both liposoluble or hydrosoluble ingredients; a quick moisturization (by signal transduction or by cytoskeletal dynamics regulation). The benefit for final consumers? A better effect linked to a more specific cellular answer. Triple action Immediate lifting Actives enhancer better epidermis health, barrier effect, moisturization

8 Hi Tech Signal-10 Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare Smaller, Better, Faster! Dry and very dry skins are also often Hyaluronans, present in our skin in Signal-10 is a fast-track moisturizer, - Turbo cosmetics stretched and inelastic. As skin ages, the cycles of regeneration get deregulated, important quantities, are constantly produced and degraded during our life. derived from a stable oligomer of hyaluronic acid, with an extremely low - Fast moisturization and lead to a thinner, more fragile Recent technologies allowed to molecular weight, standardized at less - Skin regeneration epidermis. synthetize them with a relative control of the molecular weight, allowing to obtain than 10 kda. - Skin re-activation Signal-10 reversibly binds to cell smaller size molecules to enhance their penetration in our skin. Signal-10 targets an efficient skin - Skin suppleness membrane CD44 receptors, inducing Signal-10 is the smallest evolution that reactivation through a quick proliferation internal reactions activating proliferation offers a stable form at an extremely low of skin cells, with an improvement and cell metabolism. Moreover, its small size. of hydration, elastin synthesis and size demonstrates a clear advantage modulation of key skin enzymes FORMULATION: in quickly penetrating the skin and (collagenase and elastase). - perfectly soluble in water moisturizing it at a faster pace when - very easy to handle compared to any sodium hyaluronate, - quick to dissolve - shows perfect compatibility to other compounds. even for very low molecular weights. In vitro and in vivo data showed improved cell metabolism as well as a protection of Fast moisturizing Turbo stimulating skin key components. Penetration through Protects skin components superficial layers is improved and leads to a higher, quicker, better moisturization rate

9 Hi Tech SkinVeil 500 Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare Your protective second skin As it ages or is submitted to external Just like the delicate touch of a silky SkinVeil 500 is a protein of uncommon - Protective effect aggressions, a sensitive skin becomes vulnerable and cannot protect itself veil of the finest Italian quality on your skin, Nature engineered a film-forming size extracted through a patented precise process insuring a minimum size - Soothing effect from the environmental factors, such molecule that binds to dermal cells and of 500 kda. - Re-balancing effect as temperature variations, pollution or stress. This sensitivity can manifest in protects them like a second skin. This exceptional size confers a bioactivity to the molecule that smaller - Re-lipidifying effect the appearance of redness, friction or an itching sensation. ones lack. Its high level of purity is obtained through a delicate step of - Moisturizing effect pharmaceutical grade lyophilisation. - De-swelling effect SkinVeil 500 can attract its weight in water thanks to its hydrogen bonds and Van Der Waals forces. It restores the barrier On a daily basis, SkinVeil 500 soothes sensitive skins and helps regenerate and rebalance their physiology. function of skin layers and reconstitutes the hydrolipidic protective film that reinforces its defenses. SkinVeil 500 also shows protection versus chemical irritant, and decreases the level of cytokines produced, soothing all types of skin, but especially efficient on sensitive ones. SkinVeil 500 helps to soothe irritations, Breathing 2 nd skin effect Protective bioactive film Sensitive & reactive skins Pleasant skin touch visibly calm any redness, restores epidermis protection and reinforces skin s natural defenses

10 NaTech Philosophy A global approach to respect Nature s own principles, as well as its life cycles NaTech lines are focused on ecoresponsability, safety and efficacy through the use of soft technologies to maintain the integrity of plant components as well as the integrality of the whole spectrum of native active principles. The natural synergies of compounds NaTech ingredients: Pangenine Li6 (p18) PhytoSerene (p20) MeristeM (p22) CeraFluid (p24) Honey Sun Flower (p26) are reproduced, to reach Nature s full spectrum of safe performance

11 NaTech Pangenine Li6 Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare The natural building blocks of Life Inflammaging is a constant process that Pollen is at the source of a new Life. Pangenine Li6 results from the solvent- - Anti-aging daily basis leads to a loss of skin tonicity, elasticity and firmness through little but continuous It continuously fights harsh external conditions (dryness, lack of nutrition, free extraction of rye pollen grains, removing the outer protective exine, and - Rejuvenating effect levels of inflammation and oxidation in UV and oxidation) until it delivers its therefore guaranteeing a non-allergen - Skin smoothing effect reaction to external aggressions. This background noise accumulates and precious elements. Providing both building blocks and the energy to build, quality, harvested from pesticide-free controlled crops. - Re-energizing effect constitutes one of the major components of skin aging over time. these compounds quickly start the regeneration of the species. Pangenine Li6 is a rich cocktail of nutritive compounds indispensable - Anti-oxidant effect to develop a new life. It is particularly standardized in essential amino-acids. - Skin nutrition Pangenine Li6 helps defending against the consequences of inflammaging through three biological pathways: First, its rich pool of nutritive active On a daily basis, the natural building blocks of Pangenine Li6 energize and protect against external aggressors such as pollution, oxidative agents or chronic inflammatory factors. FORMULATION: principles reactivate dormant mitochondria Pangenine Li6 is perfect for any modern and relaunch skin cells metabolism formula: Then, it diminishes oxidation levels by - natural neutralizing cumulative oxidative effects. - easy-to-use Finally, it inhibits the cytokines release, - non-preserved therefore diminishing the impact of - completely water soluble chronic inflammation. - light color - light scent - good compatibility In vivo results demonstrate skin benefits 18 leading to a reduction of visible marks linked to day-to-day aging. Pangenine Li6 also improves skin protection through the pool of its protective. Natural and unique 4 in 1 base vs. inflamm age Daily nutritive protection 19

12 NaTech PhytoSerene Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare Bring back the natural serenity of your skin As skin ages or is damaged by external Pine trees are a genus that protects itself PhytoSerene is an extremely pure - Skin barrier protection stresses, it looses the integrity of its barrier function, and cannot effectively protect with a variable thickness of bark around the trunk. This natural physical shield beta-sitosterol, a natural micro-nutrient plant fat which is found in the cells and - Lenitive effect the dermis against irritating factors. is doubled with a molecular shield of a membranes of the tree. Chemically - Restoring effect Dehydration and redness appear then, leading to an acceleration of skin aging. pool of natural compounds that helps preventing from external factors. Among very similar to animal fat cholesterol, this plant sterol is totally different in - Diminishes redness after a stress Scientific research has shown that beta- these, beta-sitosterol plays an important role in preserving an untroubled state. its biological function, but because humans do not synthesize sterols in the body (and elimination rate is fast), it is sitosterol appears to have a vitamin-like necessary to replace daily losses. FORMULATION: - Good emulsifying properties - Unpreserved powder form - No color impact action on the functioning of the immune system. It also reduces the release of some pro-inflammatory cytokines, inhibits STAT1, and increases anti-inflammatory IL10 while inhibiting the translocation of NF-kB to the nucleus. PhytoSerene is a component similar to endogeneous structural cell lipid that demonstrated a capacity to reduce skin redness after exposure to a chemical aggressive agent. It also improved skin barrier effect by diminishing Trans- Epidermal Water Loss. PhytoSerene helps cell protection by being a constitutive part of their membranes, and affecting their fluidity. It therefore protects the cell like the bark defends the tree. As a global results, PhytoSerene improves the defensive capacity of the skin barrier. Restore barrier effect Reduces skin redness 20 21

13 NaTech Sodio ialuronato MeristeM di bassissimo peso molecolare An oak-strong base for your skin When face appears tired, extinguished, Symbol of strength and endurance, Meristem is a botanical extract of oak - Anti-aging daily basis wrinkled and stressed, with an atone skin, lacking of vitality, the need for an anti- the oak tree (quercus robur from Latin strong oak ) is a tall deciduous roots growth tissue (meristem) that only relies on the use of water as a solvent. - Rejuvenating effect aging, lifting and regenerating treatment tree common in forests throughout all Plant meristem cells are rich in - Re-energizing effect imposes itself. Europe. Its roots contain large quantities of substances physiologically active to support and protect cell growth. They are - Anti-oxidant effect Phenylpropanoids (PPs) are secondary meristem, a formative tissue specific to plants, and presenting all the qualities of especially rich in phenylpopanoids that play a very important role in defending metabolites produced by plants in a young, regenerating pool of cells. the plant against external stresses. response to stresses such as wounding, UV irradiation, and pollutants. Their protective action through antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties is due to the presence of caffeic acid and hydroxytyrosol in their molecular Meristem is known in cosmetics for its effective antioxidant effect (protecting the skin from daily damaging free radicals), for its anti-irritant, soothing properties, as well as for its astringent, skincontracting capacity. structure. They show very high antioxidant scavenging activity for reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS and RNS) as well as a strong chelating affinity for metals, thus removing them from catalyzing oxidative damaging reactions. Regenerative intensive actions, to stimulate and activate skin tissues. This Safe and natural oak-solid base reinforces the skin versus Sensitive skins external aggressions. Skin rejuvenating Skin Renaissance 22 23

14 NaTech CeraFluid Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare Skin-Friendly Architect Dry and very dry skins progressively Natural epidermal barrier is partly CeraFluid is an exceptional biodisponible - Anti-aging cosmetics form wrinkles, distending the junctions between skin cells. Ceramides provide composed by lipidic layers regulating trans-epidermal water loss and general liquid ceramide, easy to use, and showing the highest compatibility with - Dry to very dry skins improved adhesion among corneocytes, moisture balance. skin components thanks to its natural - Damaged skins thus regulating skin barrier for long-term water retention, and protecting it from These layers are composed of ceramides (40%), free fatty acids (25%) olive glycerides base. - Elasticizing effect external environment. Ceramides form a non-occlusive and cholesterol (25%). As in a protecting wall, corneocytes skin CeraFluid acts as a biocompatible - Skin barrier protection protective barrier, reduce water loss cells form the bricks of this skin barrier, cement to joint skin cells in a fluid, elastic damages and show no negative influence hold together by a lipidic cement. mode, improving skin smoothness and - Smoothing effect on cells physiology. Elasticity and firmness depend on the elasticity, and helps to restore the barrier - Diminishes wrinkles appearance The Ceramide element reinforces the moisture content of this layer ( horny layer ). effect leading to a protection versus dehydration. horny layer skin wall to retain moisture within the skin, keeping the skin moisturized all the time. Increased skin- FORMULATION: compatibility and penetration of the Targets wrinkles - Liquid form - Easy to use synergy olive glycerides-ceramides improves bioavailability to deliver faster High biocompatibility - No need to over-heat moisturizing effects deeper into the skin. - High stability CeraFluid diminishes in vivo the appearance of wrinkles and improves skin elasticity as well as skin smoothness

15 NaTech Honey Sun Flower Sodio ialuronato di bassissimo peso molecolare Comforting soother Very energetic sunlight contributes to The synergy between polysaccharides Honey Sun Flower standardizes in a - Sun products cutaneous photo aging, and leads to major changes in the skin such as inflammation. and amino acids contained in honey traditionally applied on wounds non-solvent process the perfect synergy between a mushroom extract, rich in - After sun products UV radiations provoke increased production participate to its capacity to heal the film-forming polysaccharides, and a - Sensitive skins of ROS (reactive oxygen species) and cytokines, leading to local inflammation and skin, together with its capacity to form a protective film on the skin. However, the unique extract from rye pollen grains, rich in amino acids, vitamins and co- - Re-energizing connective tissue degradation. Sunlight also affects human skin via unique combination of these compounds varies very much though in regards to the factors. - Nutritive skin care - Comforting and soothing skin care infrared radiation (IRR), perceived as heat, amplifying UVR effects and reinforcing angiogenesis or dehydration by loss of water (TEWL). Based on nutritive anti-inflammatory film-protective components, Honey Sun Flower regulates the release of cytokines to support the natural regeneration process of sun-irritated skin. Honey Sun Flower moisturizes the skin and keeps it at higher levels, allowing for reparative actions. Its nice filming nature helps to prevent further dehydration by water loss. It also modulates inflammatory mediators, reducing skin discomfort and fighting the accumulation of ROS. The skin quality of the harvested flowers. The beneficial fusion of Honey Sun Flower compounds allows forming a nice protective film on the skin that lets the rye lenitive principles heal the skin after an acute stress. It is particularly efficient after an acute stress linked to sun exposure. Soothes skin after stress Helps improve hydration Refreshing effect 26 is soothed and re-energized. 27

16 Matrix degradation Cube Signal-10 Pangenine Li6 Oxidation Difference PhytoSerene Pangenine Li6 Wrinkles Difference Cube CeraFluid Skin inflammation Skin Veil 500 Pangenine Li6 Honey Sun Flower Skin cohesion/protection Skin redness MeristeM PhytoSerene Honey Sun Flower Aurora SkinVeil 500 PhytoSerene Energizing Pangenine Li6 Honey Sun Flower Anti-Aging/Firming Signal-10 MeristeM CeraFluid Nourishing Pangenine Li6 CeraFluid Honey Sun Flower Hydration short term Aurora Cube Signal-10 Skin regeneration Aurora Signal-10 MeristeM Hydration long term Difference CeraFluid Cube 28 29

17 - assistance@principium-bsi.com Principium S.A. Tel. (+41) (0) Fax (+41) (0) cosmetics@principium-bsi.com - Principium Europe S.r.l. Tel. (+39) Fax (+39) PPM-Cosmetic_catalog-en-V /12 DISCLAIMER: Although all statements or information in this document are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are presented gratis and for guidance only. Risks and liability for results obtained by using or applying described products or suggestions are assumed by the user. Since conditions and methods of use of both product and information referred to herein are beyond our control, PRINCIPIUM expressly disclaims any liability as to any result obtained from using such product or relying on such information. Users are urged to make their own tests with materials described herein to determine strength, character, performance and safety. PRINCIPIUM disclaims any expressed or implied warranty, our formal specifications defining the limits of our commitment. No liability whatsoever can be accepted by PRINCIPIUM with regard to handling, processing or using concerned products, which must in all cases be employed in accordance with all relevant federal, state and local laws or regulations in force in concerned countries. Nothing contained herein is intended as a recommendation to use our products so as to infringe any patent. We assume no liability for customers violation of patent to other rights. Customers should make their own patent investigation relative to the proposed use. Should a patent be violated, customers should secure a license from the patent owner. Refer to MSDS for health & safety considerations. PHOTOS Fotolia & Shutterstock, Principium S.A.