Photo from Texas Tourism SWSCC Meeting. Monthly Meeting

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1 2015 Southwest Officers Chair: Mauricio Castro Mary Kay Inc. Photo from Texas Tourism Volume 13 Issue 2 Chair Elect: Jacklin Hoffelt Coast Southwest jvhoffelt@coastsouthwest.com Secretary: Rita Cabrera Goodier rcabrera@goodiercosmetics.com Treasurer: Alison Nally Essential Ingredients alisonnally@ essentialingredients.com Treasurer-Elect: Mary Miller Mary Kay Inc. Mary.Miller@mkcorp.com Area III Directors: Michelle Hines Michelle.hines@mkcorp.com Liz Streland liz.streland@croda.com Newsletter Editor: Alison Nally Essential Ingredients alisonnally@ Essentialingredients.com SCC National Office 120 Wall Street Ste 2400 NY, NY (212) Fax (212) scc@scconline.org SWSCC Meeting Monthly Meeting Date April 29th, 2015 Times 5:30 pm 6:00 pm 7:00 pm Place Coyote Ridge Golf Club 1640 W Hebron Pky Carrollton, TX Phone: More details on page 2 Table of Contents Page 2 April Meeting Info Page 3 April Golf Outing Info Pages 3-6 Past meetings Pages 7-10 New Member Spotlight Pages Chemist s Corner Visit our WEBSITE AND now our new Facebook page southwestscc PayPal available for event payments. 1

2 Coyote Ridge CC 1640 W Hebron Pky Carrollton, TX Phone: SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS April 2015 Monthly Meeting Formulating Anhydrous Sunscreen products that Applies Clear on Skin that is Wet. Dr. H. M. Fares, Ashland Specialty Ingredients ABSTRACT One approach to reduce the risk associated with UV exposure is the use of sunscreen products. These products are available as creams, lotions and sprays. Sunscreens are typically applied before UV exposure, but there are many instances where re-application may be necessary. Conditions such as swimming, exercising, and perspiration may be detrimental to the retention of the sunscreen on the skin and reapplication is necessary to maintain the UV protection. Spray products appear to be the most preferred form of use because of its convenience; however, the application of spray products on wet skin presents many challenges. These spray products normally apply clear on dry skin, but typically turn cloudy and white when applied on wet skin. This unsightly whitening effect does not look good aesthetically, and may also compromise the protection as they can form an incomplete film. Our formulation approach has solved the whitening effect of spray sunscreen on wet skin. 2

3 2015 SWSCC Golf Outing 3

4 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS January 2015 Meet and Greet Carol Washington was awarded the 2014 National Merit Award for her valuable assistance and work with SWSCC Chapter activities. Mike Cone was awarded the SWSCC Chapter Merit Award for his dedicated service to the SWSCC. Penford was our sponsor for the meeting 4

5 February 2015 Monthly Meeting "Cosmetic Products from Sugarcane; Making a Positive Impact on the World Through Science" Presented by: Dr. Erik de Vries Biotechnology now allows the use of fermentation of renewable sugars from sugar cane and other sources to produce chemicals that were previously only available by chemical synthesis, processing of petroleum, or extraction from natural sources (plants or animals). Since many of these sources are hazardous, non-sustainable, endangered and/or subject to supply uncertainties, this new approach is evolutionizing the cosmetic ingredient market. 5

6 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS March 2015 Monthly Meeting "Active Ingredients Development: How to get an active principle to a consumer oriented beauty concept?" Presented By: Barbara Obemayer Head of RAHN- Cosmetic Actives 6

7 NEW FEATURE - MEMBER SPOTLIGHT SWSCC Member Spotlight Kim Douglass I d like to introduce Kim as our next Member Spotlight interviewee. Kim is one of our newest SWSCC chapter members, and has been a member of the chapter for almost 1 year. Kim is a Sales Rep for Croda, and has been in sales for 10 years. We ll talk to Kim about her career, what made her get into this field, and also find out who she is outside of work. First of all, I d like to thank Kim for taking time out for this interview. So let s start off with the basics. Where were you born and raised? I was born in San Antonio, TX. When I was in elementary school, my family moved to Santa Fe, NM, and in middle school we moved to Denver, CO, where I remained through high school. I feel very lucky to have lived in such beautiful places. As a 5 year old my parents signed me up for the neighborhood swim team and I loved it. When I was older I joined the swim team at school and was competitive through high school. I did well in the 200 medley, 100 fly, and 100 freestyle. I still love to swim! Where did you go to college? I went to the University of Colorado Boulder campus. It s another place I feel very lucky to have lived. Outside of the great education, the access to mountain activities was fantastic year round. Skiing? Hiking? Yes please! What was your first job at the teenage level, and after college? My very first job at age 16 was working in the mall in a store called Garden Botanika where I sold personal care products. I couldn t have imagined at the time that I would end up working in the industry as an adult. 7

8 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS NEW FEATURE - MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Interview Immediately after college I managed a dry-cleaning business while looking for a grown-up job. I interviewed at Univar shortly thereafter and went into a sales and marketing role for them in Denver. When did you decide you wanted to get into the cosmetic industry? Working in sales at Univar, I handled an industrial territory for many years, but the personal care sales role always appeared attractive to me. When the position opened, I applied and got the job. When Croda s sales position opened, I was very excited about the idea of selling specialty and active ingredients and learning more about the industry, so I jumped on the opportunity to interview and am having a blast and working with a really fun team. What made you decide to get into Sales? I have no idea! Actually, while looking for jobs after college, a family friend asked if I thought I could sell chemicals and I said, of course I can! He suggested I interview with Univar and the rest is history. You ve been in Sales for 10 years now, what would you say is the most challenging part of your job? The hardest part is definitely getting appointments at potential new accounts or with contacts at existing accounts that I haven t met yet. What would you say is one of the most rewarding parts of your job? Outside of making a new sale, it is rewarding to see finished products on the shelf and know Croda & Sederma ingredients are in it and have helped them make a claim that speaks to consumers. You recently attended the SWSCC Meet & Greet at the Perot Museum, was that your first time at that museum, and what did you think of the event/museum? That was my first time at the museum and it won t be my last. The Museum is beautiful and the exhibits are interesting. It is a great place for anyone young or old to learn some thing new. I think it was a great place to hold our Meet & Greet. Croda reps: Kim and Annie I m guessing you make an effort to attend as many SCC events as possible, is there any one SCC event that was a memorable one? The 2014 Holiday Party was memorable for me. First, because we didn t have an ice storm and everybody made it. And second, because this was the first Holiday Party I ve attended as a Croda representative. Since I joined the Croda team in May, I ve met a lot of new people and really enjoyed spending time with them at the party. Is there anything new you d like to see the Southwest Chapter do, or anything we re already doing, but maybe could add a new twist to? We are doing a lot of great things currently! I think it would be great to have one more evening meeting during the year, so the people that can t get away during the day can attend. It could possibly draw a different crowd and the potential to network with new contacts is of interest to me. 8 Continued on next page

9 NEW FEATURE - MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Interview (cont) Think you may ever want to run for SCC office someday, or would you need a lot of persuading? I will run for office someday. I m not sure when, but a day will come when I am sure I can commit the time to live up to the responsibilities. Let s move away from SCC questions, and find out more about you. You know you re the second runner I ve interviewed, so I m guessing since you live here, you must have run some local marathons, if so, name a couple of the marathons, or half marathons you ve run: I sure have. I try to run the Dallas Marathon every December. I have also run the Big D marathon which is in April. I ve done each the DRC half marathon which takes place in November and the Rock N Roll half marathon which takes place in March a few times. My goal is to run at least one destination marathon each year as well. Last year I did Long Beach, CA and I am planning on running the Colorado Marathon in May. The St George, UT marathon is on my radar for this fall also. So how do you train for a marathon? By running! A lot. I run 6 days week and am up by 4:15 am most days to run. For me, it is much easier to get a run done before my day starts than to make time at the end of the day. There are too many distractions, work & personal, that can become great excuses to skip a training run. What other kind of physical activity are you into: biking, dancing, hiking, or something else? I love to lift weights and also enjoy trail running. In a perfect world, I d run in the morning, work all day, then lift at night. Ok, now that we know you stay busy with work and outside of work, let s wind this down with some entertainment type of questions. Of the last three books you have read, which was your favorite, and what was it about? A book called Quiet by Susan Cain. Quoting the author, it s about the Power of Introverts in a World That Can t Stop Talking. A talent or hobby I have that most people aren t aware of is: I am an excellent cook and I love doing it. One of the most awesome (could be riskiest or scariest) things I have ever done, was: I was lucky enough to do a summer student exchange in Costa Rica. It was an awesome experience. As far as scariest goes, I bungee jumped in Mexico. Favorite professional or college sports team? DENVER BRONCOS!!! Post marathon 9 Continued on next page

10 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS NEW FEATURE - MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Interview Favorite food? That is a tough question for a runner and a foodie. I guess I should have listed eating as a hobby. If I have to pick one, I m picking Tacos. Favorite television series - or at least the one I watch the most is: I don t have a favorite and I don t watch TV regularly. I don t have cable, so the only thing I catch on a somewhat regular basis is the morning news. Of the last three movies you ve seen, which did you enjoy the most? Fury. I watched it over the weekend and it was well done. Favorite musical artist or just music? I don t have a favorite artist or even genre. I like classic rock, country, classical, and some pop. Enjoying Colorado Of the last three concerts you ve attended, which was the most enjoyable, and why? Elton John. He is a living legend and the show was wonderful! Favorite (or most memorable) road trip? When I was in college a few girlfriends and I drove to the Gorge Amphitheatre in Washington for a concert. We stayed in Washington for a few nights and camped and hiked. It was a long trip, but we acted silly, had a great time, and made some good memories. Favorite vacation destination? Colorado, where my family is. I try to get back several times each year even if just for a long weekend. Thanks again Kim, for being a great sport and participating in our new Member Spotlight segment. I myself, learned a lot more about you that I did not already know, and I hope others did as well. Remember, we will be looking for someone else to put into our Member Spotlight for the next newsletter. All SWSCC members are eligible. If you are interested, or simply have questions about it, please feel free to contact me directly. Look forward to hearing from you, Daniel Ramirez Mom and me 10

11 By Perry Romanowski Chemists Corner Used by permission from: chemistscorner.com How Do Skin Moisturizers Work? by Kelly Dobos on 04/03/2014 Our skin has many important functions, including the prevention of water loss. Dry skin, or xerosis, is a common problem that many consumers seek to treat with cosmetic moisturizers. Whether for the face, hands, feet, or entire body moisturizer formulations are an important part of any cosmetic chemist s tool kit. Skin Structure First, let s talk a little about the structure of your skin. The upper layer of the skin, the epidermis, is further subdivided into four distinct layers. These layers from bottom to top are the stratum basale, the stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, and the stratum corneum. There presence of a fifth layer, the stratum lucidum, can be seen in thicker areas of the epidermis like the soles of your feet. Keratinocytes, the main type of cells in the epidermis, migrate up from the dermis and undergo many changes to become a flat, keratin rich corneocyte before being shed. During this progression through the layers of the epidermis, lipids are released into the spaces between cells and the skin s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is generated. These lipids form a barrier to water loss and help retain the skin s NMF. Disruption of this lipid matrix and subsequent loss of hydration can lead to dry, flaky skin. 1, 2 Cosmetic moisturizers are used to help repair the lipid barrier and restore hydration. Continued on next page 11

12 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS By Perry Romanowski Chemists Corner Used by permission from: chemistscorner.com How cosmetic moisturizers work Although there are some more specialized approaches, like the use of alpha-hydroxy acids or quaternary conditioning agents, most cosmetic moisturizers improve the condition of dry skin by utilizing one of three major ingredient types including 1. Humectants 2. Emollients 3. Occlusive agents. Humectants Humectants include ingredients like glycerin, urea, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). Humectants work by attracting water from the dermis below and helping to keep that water bound in the stratum corneum. Glycerin is used frequently because of its low cost and high efficacy, but a tacky feel on the skin is one of the drawbacks of formulating with high levels of humectants. When optimizing skin formulations, cosmetic chemists try to reduce these negative properties of humectants.. Continued on next page 12

13 By Perry Romanowski Used by permission from: chemistscorner.com Chemists Corner Occlusive Agents Occlusive agents increase moisture levels by providing a physical barrier to epidermal water loss. Ingredients with occlusive properties include petrolatum, waxes, oils, and silicones. Some occlusive agents like petrolatum can leave a heavy feel so they are often combined with other ingredients, like emollients, to improve consumer appeal. Continued on next page 13

14 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS By Perry Romanowski Used by permission from: chemistscorner.com Chemists Corner Emollients Emollients provide some occlusivity and improve the appearance of the skin by smoothing flaky skin cells. There are many different types of emollient esters and oils available to a formulation chemist. 3,4 Emollients are generally grouped by their ability to spread on the skin. By combining emollients with the different spread rates you can tailor the skin feel of a moisturizer. You can test for these differences by using different emollients in a standard base lotion. Additionally, emollient lipids similar to those naturally found in the skin may also increase the rate of barrier repair. 5 Putting it together Each of these ingredient types has a different mechanism of action and most cosmetic moisturizers will use a combination of these ingredients to create a synergistic effect and mitigate certain aesthetic or financial drawbacks. Product claims and skin feel are also considerations to be aware of, so don t be afraid to experiment with your options when creating a moisturizer. For tips on creating successful skin formulations, see our previous article on HLB formulating. References 1. Harding CR; The Stratum Corneum: Structure and Function in Health and Disease, Dermatologic Therapy; Vol. 17, pp Wickett RR, Visscher MO; Structure and Function of the Epidermal Barrier, American Journal of Infection Control, Vol. 34, Issue 10, pp S98 S Flynn TC, Petros J, Clark RE, Viehman GE; Dry Skin and Moisturizers, Clinics in Dermatology, Vol. 19, pp Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B; Moisturizer Technology versus Clinical Performance. Dermatologic Therapy; Vol. 17, pp Mao-Qiang M, Brown BE, Wu-Pong S, Feinglod KR, Elias PM; Exogenous Non-physiologic vs. Physiological Lipids. Divergent Mechanisms for Correction of Permeability Barrier Dysfunction. Archives of Dermatology, Vol. 131, pp

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16 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS In October 2016, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists will host the 29th Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists. This prestigious event will be held October 23-26, 2016 at the Walt Disney World Resort s Dolphin Hotel in Lake Buena Vista, Florida. Cosmetic Scientists presently representing the 47 Member Societies comprising the IFSCC will gather to discuss and advance the science and technology of our industry. The theme for the Congress is Beyond Dreams into New Frontiers: Inspire, Imagine, Innovate. The 29th IFSCC Congress will provide the US industry an opportunity to exchange scientific knowledge on a global basis. For early sponsor pledges, the Society is offering an installment plan over the next 2 years hence early notification is being made now for budget planning. Please note that the IFSCC Congress in Florida will be held in lieu of the Annual Meeting normally held each year in December in New York City. As a result, this solicitation will take the place of our normal call for support for the 2016 New York meeting. Click here to learn more of the official sponsor levels. You will be able to select a specific category you wish your sponsorship to be assigned to. All contributions will be prominently acknowledged at the various events and in the program for the Congress. Become a sponsor today. Please complete the Pledge Form (or forward to the appropriate individual within your company) indicating your sponsorship level and category. 16

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19 While we do put job opportunities in the Newsletter, our website and Facebook have the most current available information. Thanks!! 19

20 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS National SCC Courses Society of Cosmetic Chemists Continuing Education Program Schedule of Classes 2015 Registra on now available online The Society of Cosmetic Chemists Continuing Education Advisory Committee is pleased to announce the schedule of upcoming classes. Please log onto the SCC website at for more detailed information including course descriptions and registration information. If you do not have access to the website, please contact Doreen Scelso at the National Office to receive a course brochure. Courses scheduled include: Cosmetic Chemists Guide To April 13, 2015 National Office Product Development GMPs For Cosmetics April 21, 2015 National Office Recent Advancements in Polymers May 7-8, 2015 National Office and Macromolecules For Cosmetics and Personal Care Advanced Skin Science May 22, 2015 National Office Utilizing Omics In Skin Care Simplifies June 24, 2015 Philadelphia, PA Basic Hair Science June 24, 2015 Philadelphia, PA 20

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22 SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS MEMBER NEWS We are now posting new position openings on our website so you have the most up to date information please look for the page Job Opportunities 2015 SWSCC Officers Chair Mauricio Castro, Mary Kay Inc. Chair Elect Jacklin Hoffelt, Coast Southwest Secretary Rita Cabrera, Goodier Treasurer Alison Nally, Essential Ingredients Treasurer Elect Mary Miller, Mary Kay Inc. Educational Chair Michelle Hines, Mary Kay Inc. By-Laws Robert Vetkoetter, Emultec Awards Chair Jacklin Hoffelt, Coast Southwest Historian Daniel Ramirez, Mary Kay Inc. Membership Chair John Oliver, McKinney Resources Golf Outing Chair Jason Blackerby, Dien Inc. Newsletter Advertising Chair Melissa Mata 22

23 SAVE THE DATES!!!! April 29th Evening Meeting April 30th SWSCC Golf Outing May 21st Lunch Meeting September TBD October 22nd Lunch Meeting November 19th Lunch Meeting / 2016 Officer Installation December 4th SWSCC Holiday Party Save the date December 4th, 2015 SWSCC Holiday Party Sparkle! Hilton Anatole SWSCC P.O. Box Dallas, TX ATTENTION PROSPECTIVE ADVERTISERS: Why not spend your advertising dollars where you make the most impact while benefiting a society whose members support your business? We publish four newsletters a year (January, April, July, November) and are now available on our website! The cost of an ad is: 2 x 2 $65/issue $260.00/year 2 x 4 $95/issue $380.00/year 4 x 4 $125/issue $500.00/year 1/2 page $155/issue $620.00/year Full page $250/issue $ /year SWSCC is not responsible for any errors contained in the newsletter. If you would like to place an ad, please contact Melissa Mata at melm@arcproductsinc.com or Alison Nally at Alisonnally@essentialingredients.com Electronic ad needs to be in either JPEG or PDF. 23