dermosoft decalact Multifunctional Additives Dermosoft SLL Product Information Product features

Transcription

1 Dermosoft SLL Multifunctional Additives Product Information Product features Antimicrobial active substance Effective against microorganisms causing skin disorders such as: dandruff skin odor athlet s foot % natural alternative to triclosan and climbazol ECOCERT registered

2 dermosoft products cover many cosmetic functions features natural antimicrobial activity against: Malassezia Furfur (Dandruff) Dermatophytes (Athlete s foot) Candida albicans (intimate hygiene) Propionibacterium acnes (Acne) Corynebacterium xerosis (Deo) The product line dermosoft products are carefully chosen multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. The well balanced product profiles are tailored to the needs of cosmetic formulations. Basic cosmetic functions like hydrating, conditioning, masking and others are combined with an excellent antimicrobial profile. dermosoft products will meet many of your requirements for the improvement of cosmetic formulations and along the way protect the product against microorganisms. With the aid of dermosoft cosmetic products can easily be formulated without traditional preservatives. The product s active principle is based on a mixture of middle chain acyl lactylate produced from % natural components. The antimicrobial efficacy of dermosoft decalact is optimized to act specifically against microorganisms causing skin disorders like dandruff or athlet s foot or to avoid conditions like skin odor. The anionic character of the product supports its adhesion to the skin and provides a long term efficacy. With that efficacy profile is the perfect naturally derived alternative to Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Pyrithion in anti-dandruff shampoos or to Triclosan and Climbazole in products against athlet s foot. For specific test results please refer to the related sections below. Application is a transparent highly viscous liquid. In rinse-off products it is recommended to incorporate into the concentrated surfactants. In O/W-emulsions the incorporation into the water or oil phase is possible. The viscosity of can be reduced by dilution with glycerin or the parfum. The dosage of is depending on the desired effect. Typical dosages are between,5 and 2,%. When used at higher concentrations may affect the emulsion stability. may influece the performance of some polymeric gelling agents. As frequently observed for anionic surface active ingredients the ph of the final formulation with may shift to lower values. In aqueous or alcoholic solutions the use of a solubilizer may be necessary. Characteristics of Appearance Chemical Name Amber, highly viscous liquid Sodium Decanoyl/Dodecanoyl Lactylate INCI Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate Recommended dosage,5 2, % ph-range 4, - 7,5 Regulatory status CMR-ingredients Registered in EU, Japan No

3 Activity as antimicrobial active substance activity against various microorganisms The activity against specific microorganisms related to skin conditions has been evaluated in-vitro and in-vivo. against Candida albicans The specific activity of against Candida albicans has been checked in in-vitro in a rinse-off surfactant base and a carbopol gel. The activity against Candida is relevant for feminine intimate hygiene products. rinse-off base ph 4,5 2,% Climbazole,4% hours d c p Carbopol gel ph 4,2,% hours d p

4 R R2 R3 R R4 R2 R5 R6 Multifunctional Additives activity against athletes foot and nail fungus against Trichophyton mentagrophytes, Trichophyton rubrum und Epidermophyton floccosum These three microorganisms belong to the group of dermatophytes feeding on carbohydrate and keratin. Pemulen gel ph 5, hours Epidermophyton floccosum,% Trichophyton rubrum,% Trichophyton mentagrophytes,% aqueous solution with 2% Polysorbate-2 ph 5, Trichophyton rubrum,% hours

5 Multifunctional Additives activity against athletes foot and nail fungus OW-emulsion foot cream Trichophyton mentagrophytes,5% Triclosan,3% Climbazole,4% hours d,6 tric clim pl3 OW-emulsion well fit foot cream ph 5,3 Trichophyton mentagrophytes,%,5% Triclosan,3% Climbazole,4% hours pl3 R5 clim R4 tric R3 R2 d,6 d, R The composition of the foot cream is displayed on the next page

6 .against athlet s foot Claims: Well Fit Foot Cream -2- Moisturizing and rich cream for feet with rough and chapped skin Prevention of athlete s foot and unpleasant odor d e r m o s o ft d e c a lac t as proven active Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua 5.55 Glycerol (85%) Glycerin Merck 2. d e r m o fe e l PA- 3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans. d e r m o s o ft OM P Methylpropanediol; Caprylyl Glycol; Phenylpropanol Dr. Straetmans 4. A Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum CP Kelco.5 LaraCare A 2 Galactoarabinan Larex.25 B d e r m o fe e l GSC Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Dr. Straetmans 3. d e r m o s o ft d e c a la c t Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate Dr. Straetmans. Stearinsäure D2 Stearic Acid Gustav Hees 5. Cutina GMS V Glyceryl Stearate Cognis 2. d e r m o fe e l B GC Cupuacu Butter Refined Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Tocopherol Dr. Straetmans 7. Beraca* 5. Cremerlin Pura Olus (Vegetable) Oil Cremer Care 7. d e r m o fe e l M C T Tricaprylin Dr. Straetmans 2. d e r m o fe e l TEC e c o Triethyl Citrate Dr. Straetmans 3. d e r m o fe e l To c o 7 Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Dr. Straetmans.5 B Frescolat ML cryst. Menthyl Lactate Symrise.2 C Deionised Water Aqua 5. Emprove Harnstoff perlform Urea Merck 2. D Perf. Grapefruit Parfum Cosnaderm.35 Manufacturing Procedure:. Heat phase A and B up to 78 C. Disperse A in A and dissolve B in phase prior emulsification. 2. Emulsifiy phase A into phase B Homogenize for approx. 2 min. using an Ultra-Turrax 3. Cool down to 35 C under stirring and add pre-solution of phase C and perfume oil..

7 against Malassezia furfur activity against dandruff The yeast Malassezia furfur (old name: Pityrosporum ovale) is known to be a main influencing factor in the formation of dandruff. Therefore all dandruff actives are targeting to eliminate Malessezia furfur on the scalp. As most cosmetic antidandruff products are rinse-off concepts an appropriate active has to exhibit both rapid kill and substantivity to the skin. is perfectly fulfilling these requirements as has been demonstrated in in-vitro and in-vivo studies. in-vitro tests with A) aqueous solution with 2,5% Polyglyceryl- Laurate ph 5,3 B) Shampoo formulation ph 5,3 2,% Piroctone Olamine,75% 2 minutes R R2 R3 d c p It becomes evident that the in-vitro performance in the presence of surface active ingredients in the shampoo is considerable slower than in water with Polyglyceryl- Laurate as solubilizer. Further in-vitro tests with different time scale allow to compare the performance of with Piroctone Olamine. A) Shampoo formulation ph 4,3 B) Shampoo formulation ph 5,3 2,% Piroctone Olamine,75% 6 2 minutes R R3 R5 R9 R7 R3 R

8 activity against dandruff In order to evaluate the practical relevance of the initial in-vitro findings an in-vivo study with 6 volunteers has been performed. The panel has been divided into three groups of 2 individuals. The shampoo with 2%,,75% Piroctone Olamine and no active as control has been tested. Details of the study design are available upon request. The shampoo formulation is displayed on the next page. It is the same formulation marked as B in the in-vitro tests. in-vivo test with,% -5,% - 6% Reduction of dandruff scales by weight -,% -5,% - 25% - 24% -2,% -25,% -3,% 2, % dermosoft decalact,75 % Octopirox 5,% +4 % Reduction of total surface of corneocytes adhering on a D-squame,% -5,% - 6% - % -,% -5,% 2, % dermosoft decalact,75 % Octopirox Number of corneocytes >,5 mm² adhering on a D-squame,% -,% -2,% -3,% -2% -4% -36% -4,% -5,% 2, % dermosoft decalact,75 % Octopirox

9 .against dandruff (in-vitro) Shampoo Med Anti-Dandruff D Claims*: anti dandruff efficacy supported by d e r m o s o ft d e c a lac t Optimum conditioning for all hair types Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua 54. d e r m o fe e l PA- 3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans. d e r m o s o ft Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate Dr. Straetmans 3.5 D-Panthenol Panthenol BASF. Texapon N 7 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cognis 4. Tego Betain F 5 Rewopol SB FA 3 ph d e r m o s o ft d e c a lac t Cocamidopropyl Betaine Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate Evonik Goldschmidt Evonik Goldschmidt Dr. Straetmans 2. A Deionised Water Aqua. B Am ylo m e r H 75 M Perf. Atemoxa Shower Gel Frag Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch PG-Trimonium Chloride Dr. Straetmans 2. Parfum Drom.3 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride q. s. Citric Acid (sol.2%) Citric Acid Merck q. s.. Manufacturing Procedure:. Mix ingredients of phase A in given order until completely dissolved. 2. Add premix of A. 3. Add Components of phase B and adjust viscosity with sodium chloride and ph with citric acid. Specification Values: Appearance: clear viscous gel. ph: Viscosity (Brookfield: LV 3; Speed ): mpa. s. Stability: Stable for more than 3 months at 4 C, room temperature, and 4 C Microbiological stability: Proven. * anti-dandruff claim supported by in vivo and in vitro efficacy studies

10 against Propionibacterium acnes activity against acne Acne is a local inflammation on the skin. In the first step an excess sebum production is plugging skin pores. The warm and moist conditions in the closed pores are perfect to promote the growth of anaerobic microorganisms such as Propionibacterium acnes. The growing population of microorganisms is stimulating an inflammation reaction that leads to visible red pimples. Consequently an acne treatment concept is aiming to -control the sebum excretion -fight the microorganisms -stop the inflammation can be used to fight the relevant microorganisms in such a acne treatment concept. The performance against Propionibacterium acnes has been demonstrated in an in-vitro study: aqueous solution with % Polyglyceryl- Laurate ph 4,5 Propionibacterium acnes,%,5% Triclosan,3% Salicylic acid,5% 6 2 minutes d% tric plac

11 against Corynebacterium xerosis activity against body odor Deodorant formulations are based on three pillars: -prevention of sweat formation -prevention of odor formation -masking of odor The role of in concepts against body odor is to control those microorganisms being responsible for the degredation of sweat into odorous compounds. The performance against Corynebacterium xerosis has been demonstrated in an in-vitro study: aqueous solution with % Polyglyceryl- Laurate ph 5,,3% 6 2 minutes PO R3 R5 For more information regarding the activity against body odor please refer to the product leaflet of deo. deo is a specific blend for deodorant applications. The superior performance is proven by an invivo sniff test study against benchmark.

12 Dozens of formulation examples are compiled in our Formulary Formulations with our products are available for both, traditional and natural cosmetics concepts. Please refer to the Dr. Straetmans homepage for formulation inspirations. Toxicology is not sensitizing and does not contain genetically modified material, dioxine, phthalates, BSE-related material or CMR-material. It has been evaluated as a safe cosmetic and food ingredient with an excellent toxicological profile,2,3. Packing units is available in 6 kg net metal cans. Environmental Information is produced in an environmentally unobjectionable process by esterification of pure natural components. is readily biodegradable. Handling and storage In closed original containers can be stored for at least 3 years. does not need to be preserved and thus does not contain any preserving agents. Literature L.J. Murphy, F. Baiocchi, Acyl Lactylates in Cosmetics, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 978, L.I. Osipow, D. Marra, N. Resnansky, Fatty Acid Lactylates, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 969, 3, 4, 5. 3 WHO Food Additives Series No. 5, 974 For further information contact our Dr. Straetmans sales team: sales@dr-straetmans.de or your local representative.

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