Session 6. Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients

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1 Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Trainer requirements to teach this lesson For this session you will need the following: Handout.5.7 Handout.5.8 Handout.6.1 Handout.6.4 (2 pages) Handout.6.5 Handout.6.6 Slide.4.1 (from Session 4) Activity.6.6 Swatches of hair that require their colour neutralising, products for neutralising hair colour, PPE, tint bowls and brushes Handout.6.7 (2 pages) Handout.6.8 Handout.6.9 Handout.6.10 Handout.6.11 Handout.6 Research.6 Learner Check Session 6 Trainer notes The session will cover: 6.1 The sources of creative information and inspiration 6.2 How to carry out a full head and regrowth application using lighteners. How and why to adapt the sequence of application to take account of the relevant factors in the range 6.3 How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage 6.4 The types and causes of colouring and lightening problems and how to rectify them Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

2 6.5 How and why to restore depth and tone of colour 6.6 How and why to neutralise colour tone 6.7 The potential problems of using colouring products and lighteners on previously chemically treated hair 6.8 The types of problems which require specialist colour correction 6.9 How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience than yourself 6.10 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients 6.11 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why 6.12 How lifestyle can affect the client s choice of colour 6.13 How the continual use of heated equipment can damage the hair 6.14 The recommended time intervals between colouring and other services Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

3 Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients 6.1 The sources of creative information and inspiration This area of learning is also covered in other units. Ref: Handout.6.1 Explain that colouring the hair allows a hairdresser or barber to use their artistic talent and skills to create innovative results. Explain the importance of keeping up to date with what is happening in fashion by using different types of media (exhibitions, shows, trade magazines, TV, DVDs and the internet) as sources of information for current fashion trends. Discussion Encourage learners to discuss the sources of creative information. Develop the following key points during the discussion and encourage the learners to express their opinions on how they influence the choice of colour: Historical hairstyles start somewhere, every look can be traced to images and different cultures from the past. Cultural - religion, nationality and ethnicity and social sub-cultures create classic and fashion hairstyles. Fashion is created by fashion designers. Sometimes it is a new look, at other times it is a remodelling of an older theme. Hairstyling is always a part of the look or theme. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

4 6.2 How to carry out a full head and regrowth application using lighteners. How and why to adapt the sequence of application to take account of the relevant factors in the range 6.3 How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage Ref: Handout.5.8 & Handout.5.7 ( from session 5) Reinforce previous learning from Session 5 Handout.5.8 use the handout to discuss regrowth and full head application using lighteners and the removal process Handout.5.7 use the handout to discuss how each of the factors in the range can affect the application 6.4 The types and causes of colouring and lightening problems and how to rectify them Ref: Handout.6.4 (2 pages) Emphasise to learners that it is very important that they can recognise the types of problems that may occur during a colouring and lightening treatment and that they understand what causes these problems. Explain that when a stylist or barber knows what causes a problem, then it becomes much simpler to rectify it. Use the handout to clarify the types and causes of colouring and lightening problems and describe how to rectify them. 6.5 How and why to restore depth and tone Ref: Handout.6.5 Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

5 Ask learners for examples of why the depth and tone of colour treated hair can be lost. Answers should include: when the cuticle of the hair is open when the hair is in poor condition when the hair has been damaged by excessive use of chemicals when the hair has been damaged by excessive use of heat if the client s hair has been affected by UV light Explain to learners that when the colour has faded lighter than the target shade or the tone has been lost it is necessary to restore them. Emphasise that the degree of fade is important because this determines how to restore depth and tone. minimum fade can be restored using a quasipermanent colour or a colour bath, it may be possible to achieve good results using a semipermanent colour medium fade responds to a fresh application of the target colour maximum fade needs to be colour corrected Stress that, in all cases, the degree of porosity must be considered. Remind learners that this is usually why the depth and tone have faded. Explain that if the wrong treatment is carried out it can further increase the porosity of the hair, which increases the fade and so on, ad infinitum. Tell learners that, if the hair is very porous, it may be prudent to recommend a series of pre-colour conditioning treatments. Explain that hair holds colour due to tenacity - this means the ability to hold fast. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

6 Say that when a colour is applied to hair the artificial pigment molecules oxidise in a set order and that development of pigment is from the fastest to the slowest red (develops fastest) then orange, yellow, mauve, blue and green (develops most slowly). State that when colour fades it usually fades in this order, too. This means that the warmer colours fade out the most quickly and the cool colours hold best. Tell learners to be aware that cool tones make the colour look darker and warm tones will make it look lighter. This is because the tenacity ash tones may be difficult to remove. Emphasise that, when restoring tone, development time is very important because if heat is used or development time is reduced the result may not be as required because not all of the tones will have fully developed. State that the reason why depth and tone should be restored is to ensure that the result meets the target shade and the client s expectations. 6.6 How and why to neutralise colour tone Ref: Handout.6.6 Tell learners that if a client s colour tone does not meet their requirements or match the target colour then it must be neutralised. Explain that, to bring the tone back to the target colour, it is necessary to revisit the colour star. Ref: Slide.4.1 Remind learners how the colour star is developed from the colour wheel. Say that the colour star can be found as a reference tool in most shade charts. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

7 Remind learners that the colour star or circle is made up of: primary colours red, blue, yellow secondary colours green, orange, violet (mauve) Tell learners that in order to neutralise colour tone it is necessary, first, to identify the existing tone then to move directly across the circle or star, through the middle point, to the opposite colour. Tell them that this is the one to choose to neutralise the existing tone. Method Emphasise that the method of application is dependent on the condition of the hair: pre-pigmentation can be done - if the hair is very porous this may be necessary more of the desired tone can be added to the target colour during application a quasi-permanent colour can be applied before the target colour is used Say to learners that many manufacturers make a range of pure tone mixers which are added to permanent hair colour. State that, when using these mixers, it is important to remember to work using opposite tones of the same depth to neutralise the unwanted tones. Emphasise that, due to absorption and reflection of light on the hair, ash colours tend to look darker. Explain that a base 9 which is too yellow would be neutralised using a blue ash in a base 10 (one base lighter to allow for the colour looking darker). To illustrate this point, ask learners to look on the shade chart and point out that a 7 in blue ash looks more like a base 6. Emphasise that they must remember this rule when choosing a neutralising colour. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

8 Summary Tell learners: colour tone should be neutralised when it does not meet the client s requirements or does not match the target colour use the colour star to choose how to neutralise the tone by doing this they will match the target colour and meet the client s requirements Ref: Activity.6.3 Colour swatches that require neutralising Products for neutralising hair colour PPE Tinting bowls and brushes Using the colour swatches that have been pre-coloured until they are too gold and too ash, carry out some neutralising experiments using coloured mousse or other types of colour. (Some stylists and barbers swear by tomato sauce for replacing red!) 6.7 The potential problems of using colouring products and lighteners on previously chemically treated hair Ref: Handout.6.7 (2 pages) Tell learners that it is very important to take into consideration the potential problems relating to the use of colouring and bleaching chemicals on hair that has had previous chemical treatments. Use the handout to explain the potential problems: deterioration of hair condition increase in the porosity of the hair uneven results unsatisfactory colour result required result reached sooner than expected possible incompatibility of products Discuss these problems and other potential problems with learners. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

9 Ask learners what steps they would take to avoid the problems. Answers should include: previous history incompatibility test test cuttings allow time check condition be honest with the client about their expectations for the colour service hair which has previous chemicals is more porous Emphasise to learners that it is prudent to ensure that all possible steps have been taken to identify and avoid potential problems. 6.8 The types of problems which require specialist colour correction Ref: Handout.6.8 Explain to learners that there are certain problems that should be dealt with using colour correction processes, as they cannot be solved using straightforward colouring procedures. Emphasise that this unit does not deal with colour correction other than the basic problems that are likely to be encountered in the normal, day to day operation of the salon. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

10 Tell learners that the three basic problems that should be dealt with using colour correction methods are: hair colour that is too light hair colour that is too dark hair which has the wrong colour tone Explain that, if hair colour is too light it should be darkened after conducting all necessary tests, taking into account the tonal shade already in the hair. Tell learners that if colour is too dark it should be lightened using bleach tint does not lift tint, or the colour must be removed by a colour remover. State that, when colour has the wrong tonal quality, it should be neutralised using the colour opposite to the existing tone according to the colour star. Tell learners that problems that require colour correction should be dealt with by a person who is competent in these procedures. 6.9 How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience than yourself Explain to learners that at this stage of their training they are likely to have more junior members of staff to assist them in the salon. Say that having this support is vital to the profitability and efficiency of a successful salon. The support enables the more senior members of staff to take more clients than they would be able to if they had to complete every aspect of the treatment or service by themselves. However, point out to learners that they are ultimately responsible for all their work (even the aspects that are carried out by more junior members of staff). Therefore, they must ensure that the junior member of staff understands the instructions that are given. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

11 Ref: Handout.6.9 Say that a good stylist or barber will always: speak clearly in a tone and at a pitch that is appropriate to the person who is receiving the instructions break the instructions down into bite sized steps that can be easily understood use a style of language that is understood without being condescending check understanding by asking questions repeat the instructions if required Explain that, often during colour services, especially colour correction, when a stylist or barber is under pressure they sometimes fail to take the time to explain things fully. Emphasise that, if a stylist or barber is being assisted, they should make the time to: discuss with the assistant what is to be achieved make sure that the assistant reads the manufacturer s instructions share the consultation notes ensure that the assistant is aware of time constraints ensure that they are wearing PPE make sure that they know how to use all equipment that may be required - including electrical equipment speak clearly and slowly and avoid the use of jargon answer any questions the assistant may have confirm the assistant s understanding by asking relevant questions avoid giving too much information at one time, if possible put the instructions into small steps don t leave the assistant unattended and without your supervision thank the assistant for their help State that most problems associated with colouring, lightening and bleaching can be minimised by making sure that the person who is being instructed comprehends what is being said. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

12 6.10 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients and how to maintain hair colour and condition Ref: Handout.6.10 Tell learners that, sometimes, clients complain that their colour fades very quickly. This commonly happens when the client uses shampoos and conditioners that are unsuitable for colour corrected hair. Explain that the client must be educated about the changes that have occurred to their hair throughout the colour correction process. Stress that this explanation must be easy to understand and said without the use of technical jargon. Suggest the following example for an explanation; The new colour is trapped inside the hair whenever the outside layer is closed. If the condition of the hair deteriorates, the outside layer will remain open and the colour that was trapped inside will escape. This explanation should allow the client to recognise that it is important to user a cleanser that will not lift the cuticle and allow the colour to escape, causing fade. Suggestion Ask the learners to devise an alternative explanation. Tell learners that once the client understands that, by applying a professionally recommended surface conditioner, they can: retain moisture in their hair smooth down the cuticle and make the hair look and feel more healthy Then, having seen the improvement in their hair, the client is likely to be more receptive to the recommendations that are made. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

13 Ref: Research.6 Ask learners to design a client advice leaflet to promote the products they have available in their own salon for the care and maintenance of colour treated hair. Remind them that they must write the leaflet in a way that is educational, yet at the same time, understood by clients who will not have their level of knowledge about colouring. The leaflet should include the following information: what has happened to the hair structure during the colouring process how the changes in the hair structure will affect the overall condition of the hair how the client can maintain the results of the colour service what may happen to the hair if the condition is not maintained the products that are available for colour treated hair the features and benefits of the products Encourage learners to use IT to make the leaflet look interesting Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why Ref: Handout.6.11 Explain to learners that making recommendations about products that can be used at home is their opportunity to ensure that their client makes the best of their hair between salon visits. Tell them that, if they can influence what the client uses on their hair at home, they can help to ensure that their hair has the maximum chance of staying in good condition. Say that if they go into any supermarket or turn on their TV they will see a myriad of hair products which, according to the manufacturers, are just right for their clients. Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

14 Encourage learners to get into the habit of talking about the kind of products their client is using during the consultation. Emphasise that while professional products are sometimes more expensive, if their clients are educated in how to use them properly, they would find it very cost effective. Emphasise that while the client is sat in the chair, they have a captive audience. It is important to say that they must not to be pushy, but to explain what the product could do for the client and why they recommend it. Say that most manufacturers have a no-quibble returns policy if the product isn t right. Emphasise that recommending beneficial products to clients helps to make them happy with the services and products they have purchased, and helps to ensure that they return to the salon. Unsuitable products could make the client s hair difficult to style and could possibly cause the colour to fade quickly and lose its vibrancy How lifestyle can affect the client s choice of colour Discussion Ask the learners to give reasons why a person s lifestyle can affect the choice of colour. Develop the following points: A busy lifestyle limits the amount of time a person has to look after their hair and visit the salon permanent hair colour services may be difficult to maintain Some people have a career or active lifestyle which makes it necessary for them to shampoo their hair every day colours may fade quickly Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

15 A person s fashion style and age - a younger client may want bright colours, an older client may want to disguise white hair 6.13 How the continual use of heated equipment can damage the hair Ask the learners to give reasons why they think that continual use of heated equipment, such straighteners and tongs, can affect the hair colour. Expected responses; The colour may fade quickly because the continual use of heated equipment has damaged the hair lightened hair can become discoloured and look scorched by the intense heat from regular use of straighteners and tongs 6.14 The recommended time intervals between colouring and other services Ref: Activity.6.14 Ask the learners to complete the activity working independently. Discuss the completed activity as a group by comparing answers. Now use the Learner Check for Session 6 to check the understanding of the learners. Use Research.6 to encourage independent learning. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

16 Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Learner Check 1. Name four scources of creative information and inspiration 2. Give three reasons why hair condition deteriorates during a colour Service. 3. What is the main cause of colour fade? 4. Why should colour be combed through to the ends only when it is absolutely necessary? 5. Using basic colour correction techniques, state how to correct artificial hair colour that is too dark. Note - use of colour reducers is not a basic technique. 6. State three ways of giving clear instructions to a junior assistant. 1. Any four of the following exhibitions shows trade magazines TV, DVDs Internet any other relevant source 2. Any three of: overprocessing colour product too strong wrong product used hydrogen peroxide too strong too much heat applied 3. The main cause of colour fade is porosity 4. Combing colour through causes increased porosity which causes colour fade 5. Bleach should be used to lighten artificial colour that is too dark 6. Any three of: speak clearly and at the correct pitch use a language style that is understood break instructions down into small stages ask questions to confirm the assistant s understanding repeat instructions if required Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

17 Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Learner Check 7. Give one reason why a person s lifestyle can affect their choice of colour 8. How can continual use of heated equipment damage the hair? 7. Any of the following a busy lifestyle limits the amount of time a person has to look after their hair some people have a career or active lifestyle which makes it necessary for them to shampoo their hair everyday a person s fashion style and age - a younger client may want bright colours, an older client may want to disguise white hair 8. Both the following points to be covered the colour may fade quickly because the continual use heated equipment has damaged the hair lightened hair can become discoloured and look scorched by the itense heat from regular use of straighteners and tongs Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

18 Colouring techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice Trainer Summary 6.1 The sources of creative information and inspiration Remind learners of the following influences: Historical hairstyles start somewhere, every look can be traced to images and different cultures from the past Cultural - religion, nationality and ethnicity and social sub-cultures create classic and fashion hairstyles Fashion is created by fashion designers. Sometimes it is a new look, at other times it is a remodelling of an older theme. Hairstyling is always a part of the look/theme 6.2 How to carry out a full head and regrowth application using lighteners and how and why to adapt the sequence of application to take account of the relevant factors in the range 6.3 How the application and removal of lightener should be adapted to minimise scalp sensitivity and hair damage Reinforce previous learning from Session 5 Handout.5.8 Handout The types and causes of colouring and lightening problems and how to rectify them Remind learners of the types and causes of problems and of how to rectify them: over processing under processing skin staining Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

19 deterioration of hair condition scalp sensitivity product seepage and of how to rectify each How and why to restore depth and tone of colour Remind learners that they should restore depth and colour: when the colour has faded or the tone has been lost by using quasi-permanent, permanent colour or colour bath, depending on the degree of fade and the hair s porosity to ensure that the colour should match the target colour and the client s requirements 6.6. How and why to neutralise colour tone Remind learners that they should neutralise tone: when it does not meet client requirements or match target colour by use of the colour wheel to identify the neutralising colour to apply because it must match the target shade and the client s wishes 6.7. The potential problems of using colouring products and lighteners on previously chemically treated hair Recap on the potential problems: deterioration of hair condition uneven results required result reached sooner than expected increase in hair s porosity incompatibility of products unsatisfactory results Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

20 6.8. The types of problems which require specialist colour correction Confirm to learners that, in this unit, there are three problems that would be colour corrected: wrong tone colour too light colour too dark 6.9. How to give clear instructions to those with less technical knowledge and experience than yourself Remind learners that they should: speak clearly use language that is understood break instructions down into small steps check understanding repeat when necessary How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients and how to maintain hair colour and condition Remind learners to educate clients in reasons for using professional products Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why Remind learners that the use of professional products helps to ensure: longer lasting colour hair in better condition 6.12 How lifestyle can affect the client s choice of colour Remind learners of: A busy lifestyle limits the amount of time a person has to look after their hair and visit the salon Some people have a career or active lifestyle which makes it necessary for them to shampoo their hair everyday Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

21 A persons fashion style and age - a younger client may want bright colours, an older client may want to disguise white hair 6.13 How the continual use of heated equipment can damage the hair Remind learners that: the colour may fade quickly because the continual use heated equipment has damaged the hair lightened hair can become discoloured and look scorched by the intense heat from regular use of straighteners and tongs 6.14 The recommended time intervals between colouring and other services Remind learners of: Activity.6.14 Research.6 Set a date for the completion of the research project. Page Unit - Session 6. Copyright Habia All rights reserved.

22 Colouring and lightening techniques and problems (part 2) Communication Aftercare advice for clients Key/Core Opportunities There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering: The application and removal process and how the factors in the range can affect the application How to phrase to clients what happens to the hair structure during the colour process Why a persons lifestyle affects the choice of colour Opportunity for using IT can be gained when carrying out the research for:.6 Designing a client information leaflet Copyright Habia All rights reserved. Page Unit - Session 6.

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