Index. baby shampoos, hair care formulary, 556 bending rigidity, 57 bimodal polymers, mousses, biology (hair), cortex, 75 77

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1 A Acne keloidalis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 actives, silicones, Adenosine, anti-hair loss agent, 83 aerosol hair sprays, modern styling technology, alkylmethylsiloxanes, SPF enhancement, Allergic contact dermatitis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 amide shampoos, hair care formulary, 559 Aminexil, anti-hair loss agent, 83 anionic/cationic complexes, foam testing, testing methods, 214 anionic organosilicones, conditioning efficacy, formulations, quats with carbomer compatibility, silicone-quat mole ratios, silicones, 218 anti-frizz hair gels, hair care formulary, 569 anti-hair loss, agents, 83 antiaging hair care, Johnson, Beth benefits, research, antibacterial shampoos, hair care formulary, 559 antichaotropic salts, cysteine stabilizer, antidandruff shampoos, hair care formulary, 559 Asia Pacific, development trends, 9 Asian hair, market, properties and physiology, protection, softness measurement, United States, 51 Azeleic acid, anti-hair loss agent, 83 B baby shampoos, hair care formulary, 556 bending rigidity, 57 bimodal polymers, mousses, biology (hair), cortex, cuticle, shaft lipids, simple physical structure, body, silicone quaternary microemulsions, Brazil, sales boost, 10 breakage, racial hair variations, C care benefits, vegetable esters effects on hair, functions in cleansing, categories, hair care growth, 1 2 cationic guar conditioning and repair performance, hair surface management, sensorial benefits, cationic polymers, styling mousses, Celquat LS-50, 5 Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia, ethnic scalp disorders, 64, chemical straightening, ethnic hair grooming, 63 China, sales boost, 10 Ciba, rheology modifier, cigarette smoke, keratin biopolymers hair protection, 438 clear conditioning shampoos, hair care formulary, 558 clear emulsions, refractive index matching, 347 deviations, physical principle, skin care products, clear mild shampoos, hair care formulary, 561 clear shampoos, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion formulation, 308 coal tar, antidandruff activity, color-boosting conditioning shampoos, hair care formulary, 562 coloring hair controlling progressive process, conclusions, method, theory, European Union (EU) regulations history,

2 580 Hair Care non-organic and organic coloring, 509 route to positive list, India, multilayer lamella vesicles, materials, 415 results, testing methods, polymer advancement color retention, 407 hair lightening, thickeners, retaining, silicone quaternary microemulsions, trends, desire for longer lasting color, global growth, 382 markets, natural looks, 379 salons, sensory benefits, colorless products, silicones, combing, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion evaluation, conditioners cationic guar, components, 197 formulating, hair care formulary, hair styling polymers, Quaternium-91, experiments, 259 testing results, sales growth, 11 shampoo formulation, 97, analysis results, combinatorial testing of complex coacervation, polymers. See polymers spectrometer analysis, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion formulation, 309 silicone quaternary microemulsions, technology advancements, texture analysis, conditioning shampoos, hair care formulary, 561 copolymers block and graft, block from free radical polymerization, random, Copper peptides, anti-hair loss agent, 83 cortex, hair biology, curl retention, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion evaluation, 301 customers, diverse base, 2 3 Cutaneous sarcoidosis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 cuticle, hair biology, cysteine, stabilizing antichaotropic salts, D damaged hair, polyquaternium-64, methods for analysis, study results, in vitro studies, dandruff coal tar, Proctor & Gamble discoveries, 126 shampoos, hair care formulary, 562 sodium shale oil sulfonate, results of study, study methods and materials, delivery systems, silicones colorless products, enhancing actives, fragrance synergies in hair care, SPF enhancement with alkylmethylsiloxanes, demographics Asian-American hair, 51 ethnic hair, density, racial hair variations, Discoid lupus erythematosus, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 Dissecting cellulitis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 Donnan Equilibrium, 124 dryness, racial hair variations, dyes controlling progressive process, conclusions, method, theory, European Union (EU) regulations history, non-organic and organic coloring, 509 route to positive list, multilayer lamella vesicles, materials, 415 results, testing methods,

3 Hair Care 581 E polymer advancement color retention, 407 hair lightening, thickeners, trends, desire for longer lasting color, global growth, 382 markets, natural looks, 379 salons, sensory benefits, Eastern Europe, development trends, 9 efficacy, pharmacology effects on dandruff, emulsions designing for relaxer actives, emulsifiers, ideal base, relaxers basics, refractive index matching, 347 deviations, physical principle, skin care products, endocuticle, hair cuticle, 75 environmental pollution, keratin biopolymers hair protection, epicuticle, hair cuticle, esters, care benefits effects on hair, functions in cleansing, ethnic hair Asian hair, market, properties and physiology, protection, softness measurement, United States, 51 consumer spending power, 36 differing demographics, India changing consumer behavior, coloring, fostering aspirations, hair care shift, market, natural products, Obukowho, Patrick interview, 35 genetics, geography, 37 irritating relaxers, 36 scalp disorders black populations, hair variations, hairstyle grooming practices, styling substances, UVB damage, Warren, Chuck interview, European Union (EU), regulations history, non-organic and organic coloring, 509 route to positive list, exocuticle, hair cuticle, 74 F fatty acids, hair shaft lipids, Finasteride, anti-hair loss agent, 83 Flawless, product extension, flexabrasion, foam, natural products, formularies conditioners, shampoos, styling products, treatments, formulation anionic organosilicones, conditioners, shampoos conditioners, 97 foam stabilizers, marketing, 93 marketing additives, 98 opacifiers, 97 preservatives, primary surfactant, secondary surfactant, 95 suspending agents, 97 viscosity builder, silicone quaternary microemulsions, fragrances geographic considerations, product considerations, shampoo formulation, 98 silicone synergies in hair care, trends, 4 frizz control, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion evaluation, 305

4 582 G Garnier Fructis, product extension, 17 gels modern styling technology, polyimide-1 performance evaluation, coefficient of friction, flexibility, toughness, and durability, formulation, formulation clarity, gel film clarity, 331 high humidity curl retention, salon volume and body evaluation, water resistance, polymers, VP/ methacrylamide/vinylimadazole copolymer, mechanical properties, testing gel or mousse properties, gentle shampoos, hair care formulary, 561 geography, fragrance considerations, gloss hair products, in vivo testing advantages of gloss management, experimentation, object visual appearance, operating principle, growth (hair) demonstration, hair, current approaches, history of technology, H hair biology, cortex, cuticle, shaft lipids, simple physical structure, growth, current approaches, demonstration, history of technology, hair dyes, multifunctional, hair loss, potential anti-loss agents, 83 hair sprays, modern styling technology, hard complexes, 211 Hair Care heat protection, silicone quaternary microemulsions, I IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances), 15 fragrances geographic considerations, product considerations, trends, 4 in vivo testing, gloss evaluation advantages of gloss management, experimentation, object visual appearance, operating principle, India changing consumer behavior, coloring, fostering aspirations, hair care shift, market, inner layers, hair cuticle, 75 innovations combining lipids and silicones, filling niches, product attributes, product benefits, repairing, science and ceramides, 26 styling, texturizing, intermacrofibrillar matrix, hair cortex, 76 International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), 15 fragrances geographic considerations, product considerations, trends, 4 Irritant contact dermatitis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 J K jelly hair sprays, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion formulation, 310 Johnson, Beth, antiaging hair care benefits, research, keratin biopolymers, hair protection,

5 Hair Care 583 environmental pollution, UV radiation, Ketaconazole, anti-hair loss agent, 83 L lanolin-free hair molding cremes, hair care formulary, 566 lather, natural products, Latin America, development trends, 9 leave-on hair conditioners, 204 hair care formulary, 572 light conditioning shampoos, hair care formulary, 563 lipids combining with silicone, hair biology, M macrofibrils, hair cortex, 76 mango-enriched styling waxes, hair care formulary, 565 marketing Asian hair, diverse customer base, 2 3 feel of hair, 6 7 fragrance, 4 growing categories, 1 2 hair strengthening, 7 8 India, innovations combining lipids and silicones, filling niches, product attributes, product benefits, repairing, science and ceramides, 26 styling, texturizing, natural products, challenges, defining, 110 lather and foam, preservatives, performance improvement strategies, 4 6 relaxers, 314 shampoo formulations, 93 mass market shampoos, hair care formulary, 558 mega brands, trends, 13 microfibrils, hair cortex, 76 mild conditioning shampoos, hair care formulary, 560 minerals, relaxers, 315 Minoxidil, anti-hair loss agent, 83 mousses modern styling technology, polyimide-1 performance evaluation, coefficient of friction, flexibility, toughness, and durability, formulation, formulation clarity, gel film clarity, 331 high humidity curl retention, salon volume and body evaluation, water resistance, polymers bimodal, cationic, L Oreal authors, recent patents, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion formulation, 309 VP/ methacrylamide/vinylimadazole copolymer, mechanical properties, testing gel or mousse properties, multilayer lamella vesicles, dye formulations, materials, 415 results, testing methods, mutagenic effects, sodium shale oil sulfonate versus coal tar, 141 myths, ethnic hair differing demographics, natural products, styling substances, UVB damage, N natural hold pomades, hair care formulary, 566 natural products attracting new customers, challenges, defining, 110 lather and foam, preservatives, ethnic hair, hair straightening, 63 64

6 584 Hair Care nices, filling, Niosil, anti-hair loss agent, 83 Nourishing Oasis, product extension, Noveon, rheology modifiers, Noville Inc., hair care influence on fragrances, 18 O Obukowho, Patrick, ethnic hair maintenance, 35 genetics, geography, 37 irritating relaxers, 36 opacifiers, shampoo formulation, 97 orthocortical cells, hair cortex, 76 outer B-layers, hair cuticle, 73 ozone, keratin biopolymers hair protection, P packaging styling innovations, texture analysis, paracotrical cells, hair cortex, 76 patents, mousses polymers, pearlized moisturizing shampoos, hair care formulary, 562 performance feel of hair importance, 6 7 improvement strategies, 4 6 permanent waves, cysteine stabilizing antichaotropic salts, petrolatum, relaxers, 315 photodegradation, polyimide-2, basics, evaluation, hair treatment and formulation, UVA and UVB effects on hair, 460 physical associations, silicones colorless products, enhancing actives, fragrance synergies in hair care, SPF enhancement with alkylmethylsiloxanes, physiology, Asian hair, polyelectrolyte solubility, 125 polyimide-1, performance evaluation, coefficient of friction, flexibility, toughness, and durability, formulation, formulation clarity, gel film clarity, 331 high humidity curl retention, salon volume and body evaluation, water resistance, polyimide-2, basics, evaluation, hair treatment and formulation, UVA and UVB effects on hair, 460 polymers conditioning shampoos, clarity improvements, conferring conditioning benefits, enhancing conditioning benefits, surfactant structure, 128 hair dyes color retention, 407 hair lightening, thickeners, keratin biopolymers hair protection, environmental pollution, UV radiation, mousses bimodal, cationic, L Oreal authors, recent patents, polyimide-2, basics, evaluation, hair treatment and formulation, UVA and UVB effects on hair, 460 recent technologies bimodal styling polymer, Ciba rheology modifier, Croda conditioning polymer, Dow Corning conditioning polymer, Noveon rheology modifier, polyquaternium-69, Rohm and Haas styling resin, styling hair conditioners, gels, hair fixatives, straightening, VP/ methacrylamide/vinylimadazole copolymer, mechanical properties,

7 Hair Care 585 testing gel or mousse properties, polyquaternium-64, conditioning damaged hair, methods for analysis, study results, in vitro studies, polyquaternium-69, polysilicone-15, UV radiation, enhancing hair shine, hair structure protection, protecting hair combability, pomade for blondes, hair care formulary, 564 preservatives natural products, shampoo formulation, primary surfactants, shampoo formulation, Procyanidin, anti-hair loss agent, 83 products attributes, fragrance considerations, properties, Asian hair, Proteasome inhibitor, anti-hair loss agent, 83 protections, Asian hair, protofibrils, hair cortex, 76 Pseudofolliculitis barbae, ethnic scalp disorders, 64, 67 Q R quantum level changes, 101 Quaternium-91, experiments, 259 testing results, rasor bumps, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 Reductase, anti-hair loss agent, 83 refractive index matching deviations, physical principle, skin care products, regulations, European Union (EU) history, non-organic and organic coloring, 509 route to positive list, relaxers emulsions design, emulsifiers, ideal base, relaxer basics, Obukowho, Patrick interview, 36 repairing, innovations, rheology modifiers Ciba, Noveon, S Saw Palmetto, anti-hair loss agent, 83 scalp disorders, ethnic hair black populations, hair variations, hairstyle grooming practices, sculpting, hair products, sculpting and smoothing fiber cremes, hair care formulary, 564 sebo-regulating conditioners, hair care formulary, 569 Seborrheic dermatitis, ethnic scalp disorders, secondary surfactant, shampoo formulation, 95 sensorial benefits, cationic guar, sensory profiles, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion evaluation, shampoos conditioners, analysis results, combinatorial testing of complex oacervation, polymers. See polymers spectrometer analysis, continued sales strength, formulation basics conditioners, 97 foam stabilizers, fragrance, 98 marketing, 93 marketing additives, 98 new technologies. See technologies opacifiers, 97 preservatives, primary surfactant, secondary surfactant, 95 suspending agents, 97 viscosity builder, hair care formulary, shapes, racial hair variations, 61 shine products, shine sprays, hair care formulary, 565 Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion, easy formulation, multifunctional properties evaluation,

8 586 Hair Care silicone quaternary microemulsions body, volume, and conditioning, formulations, heat protection, new polymer, next-generation hair products, retaining permanent color, silicones anionic organosilicones, 218 combining with lipids, delivery systems via physical associations colorless products, enhancing actives, fragrance synergies in hair care, SPF enhancement with alkylmethylsiloxanes, hair strengthening assessing hair strength, mechanisms for hair strengthening, new role, polysilicone-15, enhancing hair shine, hair structure protection, protecting hair combability, sodium shale oil sulfonate, antidandruff studies, results of study, study methods and materials, softness measurements, India, soothing dandruff shampoos, hair care formulary, 563 spectrometer analysis, conditioners, SPF, enhancement with alkylmethylsiloxanes, straightening ethnic hair grooming chemical, 63 thermal, hair products, polymers, strengthening consumer desires, 7 8 silicones assessing hair strength, mechanisms for hair strengthening, new role, styling agents downward trend, emulsion design for relaxer actives, emulsifiers, ideal base, relaxer basics, ethnic hair, gels, hair care formulary, 566 innovations, low VOC formula strategies, modern trends, packaging, technology history, mousse polymers bimodal, cationic, L Oreal authors, recent patents, polymers conditioners, gels, hair fixatives, straightening hair, VP/ methacrylamide/vinylimadazole copolymer, product hair care formulary, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion, easy formulation, multifunctional properties evaluation, styling resins, polyimide-1 performance evaluation, coefficient of friction, flexibility, toughness, and durability, formulation, formulation clarity, gel film clarity, 331 high humidity curl retention, salon volume and body evaluation, water resistance, sulfate-free shampoos, hair care formulary, 559 sulfur dioxide gases, keratin biopolymers hair protection, sun protection daily shampoos, hair care formulary, 560 superhold sculpting taffy, hair care formulary, 567 supplier listings, surfactants anionic/cationic complexes, foam testing, testing methods, 214 cationic guar, conditioning shampoo polymers, 128 relaxers emulsions design, emulsifiers, ideal base, relaxer basics, structured,

9 Hair Care T TAP (Texture Awareness Program), 16 technologies conditioner advancements, multifunctional hair dye, old challenges, parallel material production and testing, polymer recent changes bimodal styling polymer, Croda conditioning polymer, Dow Corning conditioning polymer, structured surfactants, texture analysis hair fixatives, packaging, shampoo extrusion testing, using to substantiate care claims conditioners and conditioning shampoos, dynamic hair spray analysis, equipment, hair fixatives, Texture Awareness Program (TAP), 16 texturizing innovations, The Science of Hair Care, 318 thermal protection, Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion evaluation, thermal straightening, ethnic hair grooming, thickeners, hair dye polymers, thickening shampoos, hair care formulary, 557 Tinea capitis, ethnic scalp disorders, 64 torsion pendulum, 487 results, testing, Traction alopecia, ethnic scalp disorders, 64, treatments, hair care formularies, trends Asia Pacific, 9 Brazil, 10 China, 10 complacency not option, conditioners sales growth, 11 Eastern Europe, 9 Latin America, 9 mega brands, 13 shampoo continued sales, styling agents, triple protein shampoos, hair care formulary, 563 U UV radiation, keratin biopolymers hair protection, polysilicone-15, enhancing hair shine, hair structure protection, protecting hair combability, UVB damages, ethnic hair myths, V 587 vegetable esters, care benefits effects on hair, functions in cleansing, VOCs (volatile organic compounds) formula strategies, history of regulations, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) formula strategies, history of regulations, volume, silicone quaternary microemulsions, volumizing gels, hair care formulary, 565 volumizing shampoos, hair care formulary, 556 VP/methacrylamide/vinylimadazole copolymer, mechanical properties, testing gel or mousse properties, W Z Warren, Chuck, ethnic hair, wash n style shampoos, hair care formulary, 557

10 For Further Reading... Other personal care technology books from Allured Publishing Corporation Antiaging: Physiology to Formulation Asian Botanicals Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry Biotechnology in Cosmetics: Concepts, Tools and Techniques The Chemistry & Manufacture of Cosmetics Volume I Basic Science Volume II Formulating Volume III Ingredients (2 book set) Cosmeceuticals: Active Skin Treatment Formulating for Sun Fragrance Applications: A Survival Guide Personal Care Formulas Physiology of the Skin II Preservatives for Cosmetics 2nd Edition Silicones for Personal Care Skin Care: Theories & Applications Surfactants: Strategic Personal Care Ingredients New in 2007 Naturals and Organics in Cosmetics: From R&D to the Marketplace -Collection of articles on organic/natural ingredients in cosmetics. The Encyclopedia of Ultraviolet Filters - Comprehensive compilation of data on every ultraviolet filter approved for sunscreen use worldwide! Patent Peace of Mind -A thorough review of the patent process. Coming Soon Science and Applications of Skin Delivery Systems - Comprehensive coverage of the challenges, measurement and future of novel delivery systems For more information, to order products or see our full line of books, please visit our Web site: or us at Books@allured.com Phone: Fax: Gundersen Drive Suite A Carol Stream, IL We welcome your comments and ideas for book topics. Angela Kozlowski, Book Editor akozlowski@allured.com