STORYTAILORS ALEXITHYMIA. CHAPTER II Black Hills O Monte das Pretas
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1 STORYTAILORS ALEXITHYMIA CHAPTER II Black Hills O Monte das Pretas The designing duo is proposing Black Hills, a collection to be discovered in spring, tried out in summer, savoured in autumn and enjoyed in winter. Using my imagination and memory as weapons, I imagine myself in missionary mode. ALEXITIMIA The story of a smuggler In their last collection, The White Widow s Walk, Storytailors introduced JD, a smuggler of creativity. Black Hills is the second chapter in ALEXITIMIA his story. They pick up where they left off in the previous collection: the hyper-imaginative JD disembarks in Portugal, intoxicated by the light and the ideas he brings to share. JD is met by an old friend, who introduces him to Alex, a potential client. Alex takes him to Black Hills a country house in the Alentejo, with an inspiring story; here, the trees nourish the earth and those that live there. Their roots, their textures, their essence. It is at Black Hills that JD discovers that Alex is hyper-emotional; in the absence of the freedom to imagine freely, Alex exponentially developed his sensitivity, to the point of being able to feel the nature around him and hold a sensorial dialogue with the trees. JD is fascinated; by sharing his imagination, he has access to a completely new sensorial universe. What he sees and feels becomes the doorway to the first dimension of an infinite kaleidoscope, the first piece in a never-ending jigsaw puzzle. A strong connection develops between Alex and JD, who promises to take him to New Bedford and The White Widow's Walk together they would fly high the sky is the limit! They speak of countries where imagination is taxed and others where people are still free to create. They speak of a time when human beings spent their whole lives swinging between being male and being female. They speak of the hyper-imaginative JD, who learns to feel by sharing his creativity and the emotions he awakens in others. This vice leads him to exchange his symphonies of mental images for emotions, with those who cannot create their own images without paying taxes... and the hyper-emotional Alex. And they speak of fashion and clothing, of unconventional ways of creating it and constructing looks, of a capacity for transformation, of creative and interpretative freedom, of emotions, of expression and sharing. Art is allied to technology to give shape to the majority of the items, using meticulous laser cutting, followed by careful assembly. They propose patterns developed from the texture of trees native to the Alentejo and materials that can awaken a multitude of ideas and sensations. They propose overlapping layers that transform the silhouette. Cork, cotton, gabardine, satin, georgette, tulle. Textures, cuts and applied motifs that suggest wood, flowers, roots, fungi and organic shapes. Traditional Portuguese raw materials and technological materials and finishes.
2 COLOURS The pallet of colours and the motifs in this collection are suggested by trees, from the roots to the trunk and branches, coming from the wood and including contact with the earth and the textures that cover it. The grey of wood bleached by the sun, the warm shades of cork oaks and eucalyptus trees, reds, pinks, yellows and delicate motifs and symbols. KEY WORDS AND EXPRESSIONS Tree/wood/roots; the four elements; imagination/emotion; overlaps; dreaming/feeling; art and science hand in hand; reasoning/intuition; challenging conventions; delicacy/strength; (self)discovery. STORYTAILORS João Branco and Luís Sanchez started the Storytailors in 2001 after completing their Fashion Design courses at the School of Architecture of the Technical University of Lisbon. After joining efforts and going over ideas, they decided to start a conceptual, international project that would reflect their way of thinking and working in fashion. Passionate about History, stories and metaphors, and fascinated by garments, tailoring and fashion, they combined two English words to name their project; this is how story and tailors have become Storytailors. Based on their research and imagination, the Storytailors create and tell their stories to the world. Each collection is a chapter in a larger story, where ideas flow freely. Metaphors, embodied by each garment, are their favoured form of communication. History, modernity and the Future are combined in their timeless designs. Each piece created by the Storytailors survives the season and can be reproduced at any time, by order or in special editions. Every year, the Storytailors show their collections at Portugal Fashion. The designers also take their creations abroad, showing them in cities like Paris, within the scope of Portugal Fashion International. As a result, their designs are often featured in the most prestigious national and international publications. In 2006, the Storytailors opened a store and studio in downtown Lisbon, at Calçada do Ferragial 8, Chiado. The historical three-storey building where spices, fabric and gems used to be stored centuries ago now breathes other aromas and holds different treasures. Amongst many other garments, the Storytailors have designed pieces for several bands and singers, namely The Gift, Amália Hoje, Mísia and Yolanda Soares. Storytailors Store & atelier. Lisbon Calçada do Ferragial 8, 10 Chiado Lisbon t e. store@storytailors.pt w.
3 PEDRO PEDRO DUNE From a free adaption of a David Lynch universe, this collection refers to the imaginary of a grand Atlas and an otherworldly disquietude. With feminine and flowing silhouettes, the Pedro Pedro woman presents herself with an uncompromised and sophisticated look. With raw and ragged details, most of the pieces show themselves deconstructed but non the less elegant. The collection features silhouettes with an A line, generous volumes without ever neglecting movements. Keeping in mind female sensuality, there are asymmetric shapes and contrasting textures that make this collection a must have for the SS17. The chosen materials were fluid meshes, velvets, wools, viscoses, cottons, silks, suede, tweed linen and synthetic leather. Colors reflect the chosen theme. Sand has base, with pink seats, many shades of yellow and blue hues contrasted with black. PEDRO PEDRO Pedro Pedro (born in 1973), completed a Fashion Design Course at the Academia de Moda do Porto, in He began his professional career in 1996 and that same year won 1st Prize in the "New Expo- Wear Designers" competition. He began doing fashion illustrations and developed several projects within the industry: uniforms, jean line and streetwear for Men. In 1998, he created the Pedro Pedro brand and has since showed at the "Porto de Moda" and Portugal Fashion events. In 2003 he won the 1st Prize at the "I Mode You European Fashion Awards 03", held in Brussels. In 2004, he collaborated with Júlio Waterland in the launch of the Pedro Waterland brand, shown at the Portugal Fashion and ModaLisboa events. He displayed his work in 2006 and 2007 at the Paris Fashion Week. He has since then carried on with his Pedro Pedro brand, under which he has displayed his work since the spring/summer collection His work has been featured in magazines such as "Vogue", Elle or "Collezione Dona". Recently, in September 2016, he made is international individual début in Milano Moda Donna catwalk, with Portugal Fashion s support. Campo 24 de Agosto, 129 Escritório 605, Porto t e. studio@pedropedro.com showpress@showpress.pt (imprensa)
4 HIBU. (BLOOM) AMBOY AMBOY, a ghost town in the middle of the Mojave Desert, hidden and abandoned between volcanic craters, salt ponds and an immensity of solitary aridity is the inspiration for the new HIBU. collection. The beige of the desert, the light and dark blue of the clear sky and the black from the depths of the craters are the colors that dominate AMBOY SS17. The vastness and the emptiness of the desert that surrounds this former Route 66 stop also serve as inspiration: a clean slate for the construction of something new. Behind this approach is also the fact the HIBU. is once again a brand led by a single person, which makes this collection a new step for the designer. AMBOY begins by portraying darkness, the unknown and solitude, which is followed by rebirth and ends in red, symbolizing the strength acquired along the process. The belts, made with crude materials, which define the silhouette are also symbols of that strength. The unisex traits that define the brand remain present throughout the collection. COLORS Black / Dark blue / Beige / Red / Cerulean blue MATERIALS Cotton / Jersey / RIB / Twill HIBU. HIBU. is an innovative Portuguese brand pursuing a vision that gender is irrelevant to the conception of pieces bringing an urban, sportive, graphic aesthetic to a minimal, desconstructive scene. Based in Lisbon, the brand was founded in 2012 by the recently graduated Marta Gonçalves, who was soon joined by Gonçalo Páscoa. The designers met while studying fashion and textile design at Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas, in Castelo Branco. HIBU. remained a duo until April 2016, when Gonçalo Páscoa left the brand leaving Marta Gonçalves as the sole creative force behind the brand she created. Despite this change and with its sights set on the future, HIBU. remains faithful to the vision and aesthetic presented until now. e. mpg.fdesign@gmail.com p i. martahibu
5 ALEXANDRA MOURA I VE GOT MY EYES ON YOU Inspired by the mysterious story, Lover s Eyes, Alexandra Moura's new collection explores the universe of this Victorian jewel, in the shape of an innovative new approach. This particular jewel is reinterpreted and brought to us in the form of delicate embroidery on tulle, where the subtle, romantic details are combined with a more high-tech side, while still maintaining the essence of antique, hand painted brooches. Voluminous, striking and sometimes oversized shapes are combined with bows and ruffles to create statement looks with strong, iconic touches. Comfortable, urban looks combine knits with sophisticated textures, tulle and brocade, making this collection the perfect bridge between the classic and the contemporary. This collection celebrates irreverent, urban, confident men and women that appreciate unique looks. From the light shades of denim blue and the different shades of black, which is a must-have in each collection, emerge vibrant emerald green and lavender, along with a jacquard pattern with floral motifs. Throughout the collection, torn and frayed pieces of denim are perceptible, evidence of the wreckage of an unknown past. ALEXANDRA MOURA Born in Lisbon, Alexandra Moura studies in IADE, specializing in Fashion Design Project. Since April 2002, she presents her collections seasonally in ModaLisboa and develops costumes for dance performances, artists and singers. Also produces the wardrobe for the plastic artist Joana Vasconcelos and the fado singer Gisela João. In 2012, her shop/atelier opens, "Alexandra Moura MA+S, at Rua Dom Pedro V 77, in Príncipe Real, Lisbon. Throughout her career, she has presented her collections at various events and International fashion weeks. In 2015, she s distinguished with the Women Culture Creators Award, presented by the Commission for Citizenship and Gender Equality, the Secretary of State for Culture s offices and Secretary of State for Parliamentary Affairs and Equal Opportunities. The honorees are recognized based on the criteria: relevance and coherence of work, innovation and pioneering character of artistic activity and social and cultural impact of the work produced. In February and in September 2016 Alexandra Moura travelled to London with Portugal Fashion, to present her two latest collections, as a part of the London Fashion Week official program. Atelier Alexandra Moura Rua D. Pedro V, 77, , Lisbon e. info@alexandramoura.com t
6 ALVES/GONÇALVES The shirt as a starting point, developing into a more complex universe, creating new items in women's clothing, in an emotional, unexpected and unusual vision. Asymmetric and oversized, unusual straight cuts close to the body, the ruffles and the voluptuous sleeves are all in play together, transmitting an energy filled with freedom and sophistication, without taboos. Technical finishes were added to the classic fabrics, aimed at a new approach to modern, sensual clothing, heading towards the future: lace, nets, georgettes, chiffon, silk and cotton, covered with these finishes. A universe of colour where black is combined with patterns inspired by botany or geometry; pinks, blues, and white complete this essentially metallic palette. The styling is accentuated by belts and metal buckles and high boots, giving a street look. ALVES/GONÇALVES Manuel Alves was born in Montalegre and José Manuel Gonçalves in Abrantes. Their collaboration began in 1984, when they formed a partnership and decided to inaugurate two stores in Bairro Alto, in Lisbon, to market their collections for men and women. In 1985 they showcased their collections at the Correio Velho Palace, and have done so regularly ever since. In addition to their work as fashion designers, they collaborated with industry between 1989 and 1992, creating various brands for national and international markets. By invitation from the then ICEP, in 1993/4 and 1995 the two designers showcased their collections at the Gaudi Salon, in Barcelona. Within the international sphere, their participation in SHEM and IGEDO is also noteworthy. In addition, they have been invited to promote Portuguese fashion in London, Copenhagen and Washington. They were awarded the "Fashion Personality" Golden Globe and have designed uniforms for companies such as Vodafone and TAP, as well as costumes for cinema, theatre and ballet. The duo have also developed a ceramics line and a jewels and accessories line, and designed a stamp for Correios de Portugal (CTT, the Portuguese Postal Service) in Between 1991 and 2013 the two designers were invited to teach Fashion Design at the Faculty of Architecture of Lisbon. With the support of Portugal Fashion, they have showcased their collections on the runway in São Paulo and New York. Studio Travessa Guilherme Cossoul nº Lisbon t
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